But The Brake Pads Look Fine!! Why The Front Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement Then?
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- Опубликовано: 22 фев 2023
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#brakefail #brakepads #toyota #brakerotors #rav4 #discbrake #discbrakes #wesselmotorworks #keepwrenching #wrenchingwithkenny @AutoZone @advancedautoparts-2148
@WrenchingWithKenny @traditionovertrend2704 @SNAFU.performance 
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It’s ok to comment on how you might be doing a job a bit different and as a retired mechanic of 38 years in the field I’ve learned a few tips from others in the field and appreciated these people trying to be helpful, it might have been the only thing they knew how to do right and they passed it on. It’s the person trying to belittle persons that spent their lifetime in this trade that I have no time for, and I bet Kenny feels the same I’m thinking. Even after a lifetime in the mechanical trades I was always happy to see a shop manual when working on an unfamiliar vehicle or needing torque specs on anything. I watch Kenny’s channel because I find him an affable guy and not arrogant, he actually admits to mistakes and those type people are very tough to find.
I agree retired mechanic myself.When I purchase a new to me vehicle the first thing I try to locate is a hard copy manual if that's not available I search the net for a down loadable pdf file copy.You just never know what you will find in there that will save you lots of time,bad language & skin loss.(sometimes there are places you can't wear mechanics gloves)LOL Cheers.
I'm of similar circumstances and opinion. Kenny may do things differently, it's his job and he does it his way. I respect that. Ultimately, he answers to the customer and to himself.
Manuals/tech databases are essential tools when you need know.
Being honest about your limitations and mistakes is valuable character trait. Denying a problem is often worse than the problem itself. I lost a lot of respect for one of my service writers when it was obvious that he couldn't admit that he had messed up.
Yes, I TOO, am an ole fart. I like torqueing everything because I'm a anti seize guy. I HAVE changed my ways using silicon & NOT anti for pins because it deteriorates rubber. I am overcautious when doing my brakes & still alive to tell the tale. ✊ 🤓🖖
I am glad to hear you guys telling these stories,as for myself I'm a diy kind of fellow.Dont always find someone to ask for information so I check on people like u all.I like the way that he is simple and straight to the point.
It's one thing to have your own way of doing things that works for you but may not be the most common way of doing things, yet gets the job done properly, safely and reliably, and another thing entirely when your way of doing things is clearly wrong and even dangerous.
I'm not referring to Kenny here so much as other auto repair channels where alleged experts use non-impact sockets with impact wrenches, and not just on low torque 10 or 12mm fasteners but on high torque ones of 14mm and higher. That's just dumb and dangerous and an accident waiting to happen. Or tightening fasteners with an impact wrench and not a torque wrench or at least by hand with a ratchet or wrench. Or working on a car being raised only with a jack and not jack stands or proper ramps.
Stuff like that can maim or kill people, if not right way than down the line.
A C-Clamp is what I started with and a C-Clamp is still what I use 50 + years later ... lol.
They work excellent !!!
Tried and true.
Why buy tools that you only use rarely unless it's a VW everything on them needs SST I hate them (VWs).
Ya but on the back u need the adapters tho
So you are saying you don't use it much?
65 yr old backyard wrencher here, been keeping my own junk running since I was 16. I for one, appreciate suggestions and use what works for me. I always clean and lube where needed. Only had one complaint on brakes, cousin's wife called, cuz was holding his chest. Dummy did not wear his seat belt, had to hit the brakes hard and ate the wheel. Not my issue, but the brakes worked great. I even warned him about his seat belt issue. Kenny here does it right. Honest guy, rare these days. Keep on Wrenching Kenny!
So the moral of the story is, if it is not your regular job, don't do work for others. I fix my own stuff but don't volunteer to do work for others to avoid any bitching. Besides once you get over a certain age you won't go looking for any extra work.
Been working on cars and heavy trucks for 41 years and like how you emphasize cleaning and prep and proper lubrication. Lube is life
Hi It's Mrs Wrenching! I completely agree 😂😂😂
I did my first set of front brake pads on my car a lot like this. Granted it took a lot longer because I’m a perfectionist and didn’t want to be too confident. Good to see I did it right
You are a great teacher at explaining step-by-step how to do a great break job, thanks.
It's worth noting that not all pistons are going to compress with a C-clamp, many need to be twisted in. So make sure you know what type you have, otherwise you may think you have a frozen piston.
you can 99% of the time visually verify whether or not the piston twist in or not. frankly if someone working on brakes cannot do that, they shouldn't be doing a brake job. another thing to note is the likelihood newer cars with said pistons in the rear also have an electronic parking brake, which needs to be placed into service mode prior to disassembly,
Most of the time, it's the rear caliper that has that type of twist pistons
That's only for the rear in some cars, for the parking brake mechanism. Front brakes will never be like that.
Yep, case in point, 1978 Lincoln Mark V with all wheel disc brakes. The rear brake pistons are spun back in their bores to provide room for new linings. That was done for the parking brake design. The front pistons are simply pushed back into their bores.
@@gilberthale7777 Yeah, tons of cars are like that. Before electronic parking brakes, there were basically two main designs for the rear parking brake if a car has rear discs. One type is the one with the piston that needs to be screwed back in. The other type is the rear disc has a separate drum and brake shoe mechanism inside, and it works like a drum brake when you set the parking brake. I've owned cars with both types. The screw piston type is more annoying when doing a brake job.
I believe that the correct kind of lube is more important than the amount, because regular bearing/chassis grease always seem to become dry and cause the pins to seize; also if the boots are not tight on the pins water probably gets in when driving in flooded areas, and cause corrosion. Silicone grease is recommended, and I feel that the boots should be replaced.
Agreed. I was shocked that Kenny used a petroleum-based lubricant on the sliding pins. I have heard this causes the sliding-pin bushings and dust boots to swell up. I have heard many recommendations for silicone grease like Sil-Glyde Ceramic Brake Lubricant or Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Part Lubricant, the pink stuff--not the purple stuff.
@@armchairtin-kicker503 Kenny uses a silicone grease .
@@armchairtin-kicker503 In the video, you can see he's using Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease. This is not a petroleum based product. I hope that reassures you.
@@armchairtin-kicker503 this dude doesn’t seem like an idiot nor do I get the impression that he cuts corners. With all that being said, it was brake grease. But, to all that are reading this tread… use the right stuff.
Petroleum based grease should never be used for brakes. It would wreck the rubber boot.
Exactly how I compress the calipers, with a 6" c-clamp. Never had an issue. Good videos.
Real men compress with their teeth.
I do everything that's shown in this video but I do a few small things that that I've learned from servicing my own cars is important to longevity of the brake job. This may seem unnecessary and inconsequential if you live in Arizona,but if you live in the rust belt it's the difference between a brake job that lasts several thousand miles and fails in the winter and one that lasts for a year or more with no issues. Being proactive, I do brake maintenance annually not by mileage.
I clean out the groove where the rubber boot fits into the caliper, polish the shoulder on the outside where it sits and clean the frame UNDER where the clips sit with wire brushes or files BEFORE I clean the pin bores. Any corrosion that's on the shoulder, the groove is a conduit for moisture to get past the boot and if under the clip can cause rust jacking of the pads. I use silicone grease for caliper pins, a thin coating on the outside of the boot, and a thin coating under the abutment clips. This adds less than 5 minutes to a 4-wheel job unless the frame is very rusted.
I used to always use a C-clamp since that's what my Dad taught me, but now my preferred method to retract the piston is to use a small prybar (not a screwdriver!) through the top of the caliper before I take it all apart. It's quick, simple & easy. Then all that's left to do is disassemble, clean & reassemble with the new parts. Of course some cars this doesn't work but for most makes/models it works like a charm. Just thought I'd share that in case someone wants to try it & may find it useful. Like always, good job man & good to know there's still a great deal of good honest mechanics out there.
Thankyou dang c. Clamp is rusty anyway.
Just started watching your videos the other day, I must tell you, you’re a breath of fresh air compared to some of the other mechanics I seen on RUclips, thanks for all you do
Yep, he does a break job just like we were taught at university! The correct way! Plus I torque everything! I have a box of 4x6" cards with torque specs for each car! You're the best! Thanks!
If you do not have a torque wrench, then you have to make it tight, but not too tight.
@@tommak6516 German torque setting; nizenteit.
ive allready learned some on brakes with sanding the pads. i trust what youre saying. #1 compliment how was that.
I like it.. i'm lazy though, i just replace the little boots with new ones. and a little grease on the pad ears for the win. Nice vid and narration !
Great idea with the air tool wrench. I've used needle nose vise grips ,or a tappet wrench.
My brother-in-law was over he other day, and I was showing him some acoustical equipment I am working with to help diagnose a noisy wheel bearing (Chassis Ear with wireless transmitters). He mentioned there is this one RUclips channel he really likes with this really down to earth guy who tells it like it is. "Oh, would that be 'Wrenching with Kenny,' by chance?" "Yeah, I am pretty sure that is the guy!" I had my iPad with me on the garage, so I brought up one of the episodes and said, 'This guy, right?'" "Yep, he's the one!" So I told him that experienced as I am, having worked on cars and trucks since the early 70s, I love watching Wrenching With Kenny because he is indeed a down to earth kind of old schooler with new school experience. It is nice to see many of my own my methods I have been using over the decades reinforced or reintroduced to a wide audience by a guy who is not at all pretentious, and is not letting his fame go to his head. Anyway, I think between watching me apply audio based technology with the wireless chassis ear, plus my appreciation for Kenny and his videos, elevated me a few notches with my brother-in-law with respect to beginning to see that I am a lot more familiar with the auto repair industry than he may have realized previously. He knew I was deep into computers, but from the early 72 until the mid-80s I worked as a technician at a Ford dealership in SoCal after getting my A.S. in auto technology, and getting 3 years of heavy experience in the Army. As much as I loved working with computers and designing computer solutions, I will never regret my auto repair experiences. Now retired, it is the auto repair industry I have returned to in my ample spare time, while tinkering with our vintage Mustangs and Shelbys. Life is good. And being able to share our experiences on RUclips, like what Kenny is also doing on his RUclips channel makes it even more enjoyable...
Pad channel shims - Sometimes there is a hard heat glazed brake dust crust, gunk & rust on the frame under the slide channel shims. It makes them difficult to fit & they don't bottom out properly causing the pad ears to be tight & sticky. I usually have a good scrape in there with the the pointy end of a file or something...
I'm really learning alot from you and the way you show your work and the way you break everything down thank you I appreciate you
C clamp is what I've always used, too. Good videos.
Another great video. I admire your skills and your style of explaining your work.
When you say that the pin with the rubber sleeve goes "on the bottom", does that mean "trailing edge" or "leading edge", because some calipers are in front of the rotor, and some are behind...
Love your channel Kenny!
(this "difference" can cause confusion)
I almost always put the pin where I found it, but usually it's usually the trailing edge. I always put the pad squealers on the leading edge.
I have always done my own brakes the only thing i do different is loosen the bleeder so the old fluid does not go back up the line then top off the master cylinder
👍🤜🤛
Yes! Learned this later in life. Crack the bleeder screw, press the piston back. Quicker than a full fluid flush, and most of the black fluid is in the caliper- which is "deadend". Get a self bleeder hose, and/or be sure to bleed the calipers after... which you should do anyway!
A 2011 328i developed marked shimmy under braking at 46K miles. The pads were only 1/3 worn, but on removal, one was cracked with a rough surface. I got a pair of EBC rotors and pads for $150 and spent a morning installing them and doing a fluid flush. The brakes are much better than new: more power and better modulation. It reminds me of the suspension. After replacement of the control arms, struts shocks and bushings with Bilstein and Lemforder, the car handles like a BMW should. Not only are their cars becoming money pits, they don't even drive like they should.
I put on some Expensive Brake pads and was impressed by their performance and quietness and longevity.. not to mention way less brake dust …..
Yeah I agree I have to put new ones on my mums car washed it recently spent most of the time on the front wheels(caked with brake dust).
@Ivor Longlash 17 mm ? they can take a bit more torque then what I saw.
@@LesReeves Tell your mum to quit riding the brakes.
Greetings from northen Sweden,, hello Kenny.
I have been around vehichles more or less my whole life and am a deacent mechanic.
Nice to see you did that job like I do them. To get the dirt and grime out for the sliding pins I use a suitable size drill with some sanding paper wrapped around it, you what I mean.
When it comes to vehichles there two things I NEVER play about with,, Brakes and Tyers.
Shoving sandpaper in a blind hole might risk leaving debris behind?
@@tommak6516 maybe,,, I also blow out particles with air.
Ive found that the green or maroon Scotch Brite pads work really well to get the dried up spoo off the pins and a cut strip of worn pad and a screwdriver works great for cleaning out the pin slide insides.
Also I have found for my personal vehicles that the added cost of buying PowerStop pads and rotors well worth it. I have put many miles on them and really appreciate the performance when needing to emergency brake during my commute.
I gained some tips this was very cool to watch thanks Kenny
my dad showed me to stick a prybar in the rotor and compress it that way. if it hurts the rotor or pads, it's getting replaced anyway. but I do like your method, thank you!
One thing Kenny forgot mention ,When you have badly worn pads you will need to compress the piston/s to do this take the cap off the brake fluid container under the hood/bonnet then get one of the old pads & put it in the caliper the way it came out then take the G clamp & wind it in until it bottoms out this will depress the caliper to accomodate the thickness of the new pad/s unwind the clamp & remove the old pad.Your new pad/s will now fit on a lot easier.Hope I have explained this simply enough for people who have never done abrake job .Oh & remember to put the cap back on fluid container under the hood/bonnet. Cheers everybody.
I had the same question, why did he not take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir? So ... can you think of a reason why he didn't? I can't. Also, why did he not put a little grease behind the rotor where it bolts to the bearing? So the rotor does not rust on at that place.
@@tommak6516 He didn't put grease on the mating surface of the rotor because it gets flung out on to the surface of the rotor and contaminates the rotor and pads. At least that's my experience even just using a little bit of grease or antisieze.
@@tommak6516 The pads were not very worn so they wouldn't be pushing out a lot of fluid back to the reservoir.
So much easier just to crack the bleeder valve on the brake caliper.
@@Ausblack as a matter of fact, that is what is recommended. Cooked and dirty brake fluid shouldn't be traveling up to the tubing or in the reservoir. Drain all what is on the calipers and fill a bit while draining the reservoir to avoid air getting trapped inside, well I guess you know that! Lol.
Great video.
The part about using a C-Clamp to push the piston back into the Callipers!
I learned the hard, make that expensive, way that some Callipers need to have the piston screwed back into the Bore.
For interest sake , there are different types of Callipers, floating and non floating
Might be worth mentioning. Also, I’m a big proponent for using a Torque Wrench whenever possible
If you are like me and particular about Brake performance, wire brush all mounting hub surfaces ,you can torque down the Rotor and measure the run-out, another method to eliminate any untoward Brake pedal feel.
Even at 60mph a Brake failure is an experience you don’t need, it’s slightly more dramatic at 150mph, take my word for it LOL.
So be sure to know what you’re doing and being meticulous never hurt!
What cars examples do you have that have screw in/out caliper pistons?
@@tommak6516 That applies to some calipers with integral handbrake mechanisms
Well done with the brake job 🙂. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️👍 it.
I like how you kept the original hardware. In our climate lubing under the hardware is a good idea to stop rust jacking. On my own car I fixed my brake pulsation by taking everything apart, cleaning, lubing and reassembling . A tire shop had tightened two wheel bolts to about 300 ft pounds with their silly impact and torque wrench dance...
Over torquing to 300 lbs is crazy and lazy, the risk lies in stretching the studs which can fail, always use a torque wrench.
@@blainemcdonald6972 they use a torque wrench *after* the impact has over torqued the studs.
I actually had survere brake judder that was nothing more than over torquing the nuts. So I agree I always use a torque wrench.
Years ago I had some new rotors that had cosmo lean type compound on them . I tried to most of it out from the fins but they still smoked and smelled big time, luckily for me it was my own personal car.
Kenny, a small bristle type bottle brush cleans the pin holes really good
Good video. Just subscribed. Like your laid back way.
Your work is very logical.
A lot of times some mechanics use petroleum based lubricant on these pins causing the rubber bushings to swell up seizing the calipers,I use only silicone based lubricant on theses pins and also clean out the bore and pins Petroleum based lubricant also causes the boot to get soft and tear thereby dirt and contaminates entering the bore further causing problems
Excellent video... no music either... like a father teaching his son.
Harbor freight has those large Q tips with wood sticks I use them for cleaning the calper pin holes.
One tool that I use often is a small wire brush that fits into a standard 1/4 inch power tool for just cleaning out the carrier pin holes works a dam. spray in some penetrating oil a few quick in and outs with the wire tool hey presto just like new. I have a set with many different sizes for the different pins. I had to laugh at the GERMAN torque one of my favourite expressions.
Using a distributor tower brush and brake cleaner/acetone works great for cleaning out slide pin bores.
To clean out the pin holes I use a nylon bristle brush on a drill along with break clean.
Gun cleaning kit, right size brass brush
Hey everybody has their own way of doing things and if it works then it works, might be something I would look into
You do a great job explaining things
Since I was a young man driving backwards and nearly abrupt stops were always part of brake jobs. And yes pumping the pedal before starting the car to set the pistons.
Great job as always!
i have never done the break in instructions that come with some rotors and pads never had a problem as long as i am using good parts good video thanks for sharing
Why wouldn't you do the break in instructions?
Do you know more than the manufacturers of their parts?
@@bartsarton2212 I have started I'm old school never been to any schools learned from father who also self taught honestly never knew about the breakin stuff until saw you tube video about it. So it's not that I think I know more I didn't know enough. It's odd I worked several years for a Montgomery Ward auto shop and also a Sears auto shop breakin was never mentioned in any of the classes we had. It might be a southern thing not sure. But thanks for your comment
You must not live in a hilly area then!😅
No church around my place. What now? How to check my brakes 🤣
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 😃
To clean those holes better use a bulb brush from the old days. Old style bulbs had a brush especially made for that. Not sure if they're still available but you can find 'em at tool/tractor shows.
Akebono pads.
Advics rotors.
Sil-glyde for the pins.
Copper anti-seize for the hardware.
Very relaxing video to start a Friday morning. T.y.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us 👍
Awesome Kenny with the longer videos
I've used a gun barrel mop and/or brass brush to clean out a really crusty one.
Nice work bro 👏🏻👍
I saw a neat trick from Eric O. He puts a drill bit on a vice about the size of the hole and then sticks the caliper on that and spins it around to clean up all the crap on the inside.
Nice reminder to pump the brakes after replacing pads or linings. But, I have always pumped them when pushing no more than half way to the floor. Why? In older cars/trucks especially, it is possible there is some build-up of grime and residue inside the Mater Cylinder's bore that is normally past the lip of the rubber cup seals. When pumping the brakes, a full pushing of the brake pedal will run those rubber cup seals over any such grime, which could cause an otherwise avoidable leak (interior or external) to begin. The only reason to pump the brakes is to make certain any affected wheel cylinders or caliper bores are filled with brake fluid after the pads and linings are pressed up against their mating metal surfaces with the drum or rotors. Hale length pumping will accomplish that just fine. Hey, Kenney, another great video. Good, sensible approach to doing a nice brake job properly, with lots of common sense points made. I hope folks watching these videos do their work after watching your videos in order to avoid problems. Kudos....
Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate you taking the time to write to me. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny Nay, my gratitude goes out to you for taking the time to read comments you get. I do the same with folks who comment on our little How-To videos re: working on vintage Mustangs and Shelbys. I have far fewer subscribers than you do, and it may always be that way. But, I am fine with that as long as someone gets good use and info from our videos. It is a shame we live do far from you (Pittsford is a suburb of Rochester, NY, way north of you). I would LOVE to stop in and just hang at the shop, in a helpful way - not a shop rat.
I am in awe that you do all your video recording and editing on your smart phone. We use our iPhones for recording, but I upload the videos to my MacBook Pro laptop and edit using iMovie. That is brutal enough. I can't imagine doing it all on the iPhone, although technically it is possible.
Once in while Lynda and I do get down to the Carolinas, and Florida, to see friends and family. If it looks like we can get out to your neck of the woods I will let you know to see if we can get together and yak a bit - old school tech to old school tech, heh heh... I may be old school, but I came up when electronic ignition was just becoming mainstream and computer controlled engines (Ford EEC1 & EEC2) were just hitting the market. I had migrated to the computer industry about the time EEC3 was coming out. So, I have fear of the newer systems - not after working on the older systems that had no DTC memory or OBD capability. Fun times. And I have a story re: my way of diagnosing problem electronic ignition modules on Ford/Lincoln/Mercury vehicles that will cause you to chuckle. Story for over a beer or soda...
Excellent video enjoyed it Kenny.
Yes A wire wheel , a most useful tool . I use mine almost every project I do !!
To clean the caliper pin holes, I use a brass bore brush chucked in a drill. Makes the work a lot easier.
Great video as usual and I've learnt something with the winding the piston back with the C clamp on the pads, a lot easier than using a bar or screwdriver on it. I'm not sure about lubing the clips that the pads slide on though, wouldn't this lead to brake dust getting there and clogging them up? Many thanks and keep them coming.
Same
A bit gets in there over time but usuallly not enough to affect the performance & you clean the clips or use new ones the next time you do the job.
The benefits of smooth silent pads far outweigh a insignificant amount of dust build up.
Lube anything that is metal to metal contact.
I use bench buddies to clean out those slide holes. I cut one so it fits in a drill so I can spin it going in and out.. similar to using a wire wheel on pins but in holes.
The salt and liquid road treatments for ice up here in Hoth gum up the caliper pins regularly. I pull them, polish them and grease them almost annually. Very often when the pins freeze up, the pads wear only on the piston side and braking is terrible and pulses.
Kenny, a cheap spray gun cleaning kit from Harbor freight works great for that. It comes with a little brushes and you can stick in them and work in an out twist them. I take and cut the end off Fernando a battery operated drill and stick it in there cleans them right up like new.
Thanks for the tech tip. I appreciate you sharing. Keep wrenching 🔧
FWIW On that bracket holes, I used a diesel soak 308win bore brush on a drill . A few spins and spray off with brake cleen and those bores would be 100% clean. The copper brush would not score the bores.
You can clean small bores by slotting the end of a wood dowel. In the slot slide in your choice of rag, scotchbrite or emery cloth. Chuck it in a drill and scrub away.
Would suggest you loosen the bleed nipple on the caliper pry to compressing the piston
prevents fluid being forced into the m/c, and possibly damaging the seals !
It prevents moisture and air being forced back in brake system
As well. Always break
Bleeder screw when doing
Disc brakes then retighten. 😮 as well
Check fluid level in McDonald’s
before driving.
In order to clean those bracket holes, I would use my bronze bore brush, used to clean my pistol bore.
Great job, Kenny. However, I’ve noticed that you skipped one vital step: clean and lube the face of the hub where it contacts the rotor. Here in Canada it’s a must, due to road salt. (Well you get the idea) 😮Cheers!
I'm glad I'm not the only one who just pours the cleaner on the floor 😂
Really good video, I learned alot.
Would like your opinion on something, I have been dealing with this problem for about year and half, Kia Soul 2020, changed the front brakes pads and rotors twice within 8 months, brake pads are not worn out but after like 5000 miles or so every time I brake it sounds like a bus stopping, very loud until I stop, is not a squeak and the steering wheel does not shake is just loud, I have grease all the components as you do, everything moves freely the only common denominator is that I had to use the same brand brake pads both time because the front brake pads where not available from other manufactures, now they are starting to become available from other manufactures, I am using the new rotors that are perforated instead of the solid rotors just because I believe they are better in cooling the brakes down, I just order the new pads from power stop and I am thinking of going back and install the original rotors that came with the car to see if this fixes the noise problem, nothing wrong with them, but I would like your opinion and expertise.
What you need for the holes is a small round wire brush , I have a number of different sizes !
I normally use one of my wife's old Eyelash brushes when cleaning for the sliding pins
Great video what kind of lubrication do you use for the pins ?
I wonder if that dried up grease was actually common bearing grease someone used at some point and it couldn't take the heat.
Great job !!!
This content is excellent! As a mechanic myself, I can give testimony on how people don't repair those systems Properly because they don't have the proper knowledge and in some cases not even the basics. I hope that more People find their way to your content and appreciate the knowledge and expertise that you provide. You're doing a great job and explain everything as good as possible. Keep on wrenching Kenny
How do you know if your shop is doing it right at 120 an hour? Having to count every washer and screw is tiresome. It starts with the washer fluid fill up charge that I filled to the rim before my appointment.
I have a 04 Silverado 98000 miles on it my last brake job all around was 6/27/19 @86728 I don't drive it hard, front and rear pads, rotors were all done a the same time i put on maybe 50 miles a week not sure, a while ago at 97000 miles i noticed that when i apply the brakes slowly there's a very light studder on the brake pedal from 9 miles to 5 mph then it ends before it stops. what do you think?
I,used to work for a Citroen specialist. I,have an old Citroen C5 and had to fit 4 new brake calipers. Brand new. All 4 new ones were seized. Solid. I,despair.....
I,use,plenty of grease when rebuilding brakes. They work as well as OEM calipers now.....
Kenny, thanks for the video I really appreciate it. I was just curious do you ever rebuild the calipers? I used to do a little mechanic work in the past. I worked on Automotive and even caterpillars for a short while. I’m definitely not near the mechanic you are. Just curious about the calipers. Can’t wait to watch your next video. Thanks again.
The only caliper I ever rebuilt was a 1969 Dodge Dart. The replacement was not available. Thanks for watching!
Any thoughts on choosing a good brand of front rotors. I have yet to find a brand that lasts half as long as the factory rotors before warping. I went with acdelcos last time and I dont think I put 70k on the factory ones but I dont think I got 20-30k out of the replacements.. I always torque the lugs and driving habits were the same.
I’m in rust belt area and slider pins rusted up it’s easier just to replace the calliper then clean and hunt for new rubber boots. Once the protective finish or plating is gone from the pins they just rust up and stick again 😢Most callipers are cheap 😊If myself or others are not keeping the vehicle cleaning then up could be cheaper
Do bore brushes (correct term?) or steel inside pipe cleaners exist for doing a job like the pin bores? The other thought I had was a little steel wool wrapped around a screw driver or the like to help with the cleaning of the pin bores. Thoughts?
Something I would add is pressing the piston in you will also push all the dirty liquid back and normally it ends causing other issues such as the piston getting stuck or rust to the point it has to be replaced IMO better to drain that out and purge the system
I think you should put lock tight on those caliper bracket and torque to spec. They can come loose and fall out.
Kenny knows from experience how tight it needs to be. If you don't know, then by all means use a torque wrench. If you are insecure lock tight blue can't hurt.
Regarding brakes - best practice is to always clean and relubricate all brake hardware when changing pads and rotors - regardless of customer concern or not.
It has always been my opinion that checking everything every time and making everything good before delivery back to the customer is best practice.
It just that it appeared that if there wasn't a customer concern you would never had checked the caliper slides.
And those boots - as clean as possible?
Clean them with Brake clean as well - dry them - and spray silicome00ne spray on them to protect them as well.
Best practices.
Good job my friend 🙏
Thank you sir !!!
@@WrenchingWithKenny your welcome my friend 🙏
Buy a narrow profile wrench for the head of the caliper pin, I have them in metric and in SAE
I didn't see the squeal/squeak tab where it notifies the driver that the pads are worn... So Ken was correct in guessing that what the nipple was for on the corners of the pads
Usually, the pad with the squeal tab goes on the inner side?
A chip for cleaning out those female slide receivers, pickup like a 30 caliber boar brush for guns. You can put it on a drill motor and clean those out really good with a bronze brush will not damage the steel at all.
Been cleaning wild boars, have ya? 😆
I use a penetrating oil and a gun bore cleaning brush to clean the glide pin holes. The penetrating oil help break up any rust that may have accumulated (I live in the rust belt).
410 shotgun brush work great!
Here in western NY with all the salt I remove the stainless steel hardware. You must chip away the built up rust between the caliper brackets and stainless hardware. I also apply never seize underneath the hardware before reinstalling on the bracket to resist future rust buildup. If the rust buildup isn’t removed it can make the brake pads bind up in the brackets which can cause premature and/or uneven wear and brake squeal.
I put a bunch of grease on my pins when I did mine they feel great.
You need to get a decent set of bore brushes man. I am not saying break the bank but at least a decent set. I am happy to see you clean the inside of the boots. I normally mash them down with the grease on it enough to get grease coating the entire inside. I also use a lot more grease then you did in this. I do burp the boots though. Never had an issue. I do coat the back of the fingers of the caliper once cleaned up and the piston. Believe it or not some pistons can be destroyed by adding the grease. They are the composite type pistons and yes I am talking silicone grease. I tend to use permetex caliper grease. I drive a manual I get 5 yrs before needing to regrease and 7yrs out of a set of pads and rotors. Been a tech for 13yrs now and I am a master tech. I have watched a bunch of your videos and if no one has told you, you are a damn good tech and use ingenuity which is rare keep being awesome.
Something also to think about because I did after years and it made me way happier is your comeback percentage. Think about the number of vehicles you fix in a day. Do the math for the year and then count the number of comebacks and then do the math for the percentage. It will make you smile pretty much guaranteed.
To extend the life on your brakes and rotors, check the caliper pins and pad wear. For those that do your own maintenance. I reaply silicone paste every other oil change every 5K miles.
I worked on a Honda Pilot, Toyota Corolla, and Kia Optima. On those I've never greased the pad ears that slide onto the clips. Over time that attracts brake dust and will cause the pad to seize and wear uneven. Also cause brake squeal or drag. Other applications may differ.
Good comment Mario, I quit greasing the ears some time back after realizing nearly all the pad clip hardware was stainless steel and won't rust like under the bracket can. Just wire brush the top, grease underneath if needed and if bracket looks solid, ignore the underneath, pad ears do fine on stainless.
Excellent video
Just my input , in my experience 90 percent of potential caliper replacement is due to stuck or rusty caliper slides not the caliper piston.