Changing Toyota Tundra Front Brakes in 10 Minutes!
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2022
- At 42k miles the front brakes have given up the ghost in my 2018 Tundra. I can't stand squealing brakes so I got to work swapping them with some centric pads/rotors from tire rack.
Parts Used:
Brake Pads: tinyurl.com/3t2m7rwf
Brake Rotors: tinyurl.com/9tvfcesk
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Hands down one of the better installation demos on RUclips, excellent job!
Thanks!
“Better Installation video” ??? Didn’t put some grease on the hub, didn’t clean where the pads ride. Lol, this is decent but not the best.
@@DownloaderVideo oh right, that’d be YOUR video right? 😂 Exactly! Fk off.
Good vid, to the point and clear visuals. Love our Tundra
Thanks! This truck has been amazing for us.
First time doing my Tundra's brakes. They are a little different than my wife's Rav4. Thanks for the video, it made the job easier. BTW, I didn't have to remove the speed sensors, just opened the clips holding the wire and removed the brackets, then put the caliper on a 5gal bucket.
Nice, glad it was helpful! I really need to get a hanger for the calipers but a bucket seems like it would work a treat, same with opening the clips!
Super helpful! Thanks.
@@GarageAddiction The hanger is a necessity. You don't want to mess around with wheel sensors if you don't have to.
Thanks man just followed your video step by step, even had a few paint buckets laying around to set my caliper on!
Glad it was helpful!
Reality: The pins did not just, come right out, nor did the caliper bolts
You must live in or near Michigan!
@@realdemocracy1049 worse, Ontario
I'm in Buffalo trying to do mine. Those pins...
@@apcook34 I used a punch and a hammer and lots of spray lube, they'll come eventually, keep working it back and forth
I just replace caliper advance auto 100 dollars, pins bent trying to get out and was old and rusted
Thank you for the Video. Can not believe how simple this design is.
Nice straight forward video. Don't be scared to torque fasteners to manufacturer's specs. I have to do brakes on my Tundra the locations of sensors and connectors is helpful. Thanks
Dude! Great vid, great style. Sub'd!
Thanks for sharing! Your a great instructor.
Awesome video! I’ve done brakes before, several times. But I wanted to see a video in case I ran across something complicated. I know some manufacturers make some vehicles a nightmare with their engineering. You did a great job explaining this video and the angles are perfect. I viewed a few other videos before watching yours and I couldn’t finish them. Some say tutorial yet they already have the job partially done or won’t show you how they installed or uninstalled something. It defeats the purpose of a tutorial. Anyways. Thank you! Lol
Thanks! I try and show everything I'm doing and avoid the words tutorial and how to since all the armchair mechanics come out then haha
Excellent video good job explaining the process. 👌
Thanks!
A perfect video !!! Friggin perfect !! Thank you !!
Thank you, I did mine following your tutorial and it was perfect
Glad it was helpful!
Got the saftey flops on!! Good video, thanks!
Haha, thanks!
Excellent step by step, even for someone who has done the job more than once, great detail and explanation
Great video man
Appreciate it!
Great video!
Smooth job
I was laughing today as I suffered trying to get the pins out. I wondered if you were having a little fun saying they would slide right out. Then I realized some people live in the south! They weren’t going anywhere. My solution was new calipers. Worked like a charm, cost a bunch of money, saved about 4 hours of my Sunday. Great video though, thank you! Helped a ton.
Damn that sounds rough, yeah no salt and hardly any water where I'm at. Glad it was helpful!
Great job
Great video. I advise checking the brake fluid level in the master cylinder before pushing the calipers back. It it's at the max level, you may have overflow from the master cylinder from too much fluid. I usually use a cheap turkey baster to remove some brake fluid before starting. Then, I top it off after the job with new fluid. Thanks.
Good tip for sure, no overflowing action here but If I did all 4 corners it probably would have.
Best pro tip is to open the bleeder while you spread the calipers, since it will push out all the old nasty fluid out of the calipers instead of pushing that crap up stream on the system l.
Excellent tutorial! I’m not all that mechanically inclined, and depend on videos like this to allow me to do my own work and not get price gouged! Thanks.
Glad it was helpful, the more you wrench the easier it gets!
nice video!! I just have to make sure to put on my sandals next time!!
The car looks awsome 😎👍
Thank you! I love that beast.
Great videos will definitely help when I change mine. Just wondering how you like the Daytona Jack stands? I’m currently looking to buy 6 tons stands.
They have been great, I don't use them much but they're cheap and stable haha
Good job bro
Thanks!
Is this the same as my 2009 tundra? And what size bolt was used to pull the rotor off.
Depending on the brake pads manufacturer, it will have some squeal tabs. Just small metal tabs that will contact the rotor when the pad wears down. Those go on the inside. Took me a minute to figure that out.
Great video,,,,, nice and concise, Are the bolts used to push the rotor off the axel measured at 8mm,,1.25 thread,,,,?
Thanks! Yep, M8 x 1.25
I was wondering this too, thanks for the info!
Just saw this video, will be switching out my brakes in the next round
Can u post the mikwaukee drill info used in this video
?
just purchased new ebc rotors from uk and nrs pads out of canada will be doing 4 rotors 8 pads this week tundra just shy of 30k those duelers need to be replaced too any ideas on tires not going to aggressive but don’t like duelers looking tires either nice video thanks 👍🏻
Nice! I have a set of rotors and pads waiting for the rear, they still had plenty of life at 30k. I actually went with the duelers again because my local dealership had a ridiculous deal on them but I'd be interested in looking at some other options based on how they die so fast.
niceeee video
For the lower retainer clip make sure if needed to bend it out a little so that it doesn't make contact with the rotor.
Is there a brand you recommend for rotors? I've been told that these trucks need the front rotors replaced every time you change the pads because they warp. Do all brands warp or is there one that doesn't? And thank for the amazing video! I feel confident that I can do it!
I like the centrics I picked up from tire rack. They work just fine. I doubt they’re warping with every pad set but you would need to have them turned. I just replace the rotor with the pad and then I keep the old set to have checked out. Glad it was helpful!
1) You don't have to remove the calipers. 2) remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder before pushing the pistons back in the caliper. 3) Bleed the brake and top off the master cylinder.
Show me a picture of you removing the rotors without removing the calipers
That's impossible sir to not remove the caliper when you're replacing a new rotors
The topic was changing brakes. Not swapping out rotors.
@@pjlederer5139 I never take the calipers off. Compress the pistons using the old pads, drop in the new pads, replace pins. Done deal.
@@pjlederer5139 So the title of the video wasn't a complete description. Did you watch the video? He clearly replaced his rotors so, yes, you do have to remove the calipers to replace the rotors.
I have a quick question. Do I need to be concerned with anything brake line related in terms of bleeding the lines or something like that? Also would you recommend OEM or Aftermarket rotors and pads? Awesome video! Thank you!
Keep an eye on the brake fluid level when compressing the calipers, I had no issues as there was plenty of headspace but depending on it's fill level it may be worth removing some. Depending on the age of the fluid it would be worth a fluid change at the same time but other than that since it's a sealed system you shouldn't need to do anything with bleeding the lines. I went with centric pads and rotors, they've been great on any vehicle I've put them on. OEM usually comes with a hefty upcharge with no real benefits for consumables.
I sure wish I would’ve saw this video before doing my brakes.
Never underestimate the importance of torque. An engineer chose that for a reason and I've yet to ever damage the threads of any vehicle ( thousands )I've torqued to spec. This was a great video and truly appreciate all the detail you put into it.
Thanks! To clarify this a touch, the Hanes shop manual specifies 120. I've seen 80-90ft lbs as a spec from the actual service manual across various years on forums but nothing definitive.
It’s a Toyota, not a F22. I think it’ll be fine. To eyeball the lug nuts.
are there any bleeding of the brake oil... when we use to change the brakes on cars we had to bleed the brake oil to get all the air out.
No air should be introduced when swapping the pads. It's good practice to change the brake fluid during a brake service which would involve bleeding the fluid on all four corners starting with the furthest from the master to the closest.
Thank you.
Preparing to do this. Where did you get your new brake disc and brake pads from and what was total cost?
I picked these up from Tirerack.com Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads and Plain 120 Series Rotors. Came out to about $270 shipped with tax for the front brake setup. I'll update the description with links.
If you go online to Toyota parts you can buy genuine Toyota parts at a very reasonable price. Just bought rotors for my ‘21 Land Cruiser. $80 each from Dar Cars Toyota.
I watch tutorials for everything, before I DIY. I wish they were all this good. Really phenomenal job. The lighting, editing, angles, voiceover all perfect. Maybe wear gloves next time? lol
Thanks :) Im all for gloves when you have them haha
Dope....
Gm, dodge, ford take note of this setup. Superior.
SOOOOOOOO, all was good EXCEPT the heavy braking he mentioned. thats the perfect way to warp youre rotors and over heat pads and rotors and pre_maturely glaze them and then ur jacked.....there is a break_in process...and its gradual braking......dont let this guy do ur brakes
No bleeding?
Are caliper bolts reusable? I know on some of the other vehicles I've worked on, the manual says they're single use. Thanks.
No mention in the Haynes manual. I generally only replace bolts if they're torque to yield and/or require degree turns after torquing.
@@GarageAddiction thanks
I apologize for a stupid question, what is the capacity of the floor jack you used? Thank you.
The stands say 6 ton. I wouldn't go below 2 tons for a jack. I mean, even though you're only lifting 1 corner of the truck.
To just replace the pads, do we need to remove the caliper?
No they drop in with the caliper in place. You’ll have to spread the old ones out to push the pistons back in before hand to make some clearance. It’s a tight fit so it might just be easier to pull the caliper and retract the pistons anyway.
If the pads never got low enough to squeal, do I need to replace the rotors?
You don't always need to replace the rotors, they have a minimum thickness and generally last a couple pads worth of usage. If you reuse the rotors you'll want to have them turned at a shop so they're nice and flat for the new set of pads.
What aftermarket pads did you use?
Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic pads from Tire Rack.
What happens if you don’t use caliper grease?
The grease is really important on the pins so that the pads retract from the rotor nicely and don't drag. Back of the pad is just for a little noise reduction from the piston on pad contact.
Why do my brakes have stamped steel shims. Factory ones and no video has shown anyone use them or even have them
The factory brakes come with stamped shims, the aftermarket set I threw on already had shims on them. Some come with new shims separate from the pad but most that I’ve seen recently are already glued or stuck on the pads out of the box.
@@GarageAddiction great explanation thank you.
Never had my pins just slide out. They get swelled up from rust and have to be cut out.
Oof, I've had a couple east coast rust cars. The last one broke me when I tried to remove some control arm bolts.
Are the rear brakes harder to do or basically the same?
They're basically the same, not too bad of a job.
I also wanted to know about the rear brakes, thank you!
@@hillt0py0deler my wife and I changed the brakes on our sequoia and it was pretty easy but since it was our first time it took a while.
My tundra 2015 keeps warping rotors every 8 k minkes the just warp . Ive checked everything hub runout etc all is fine the slowly bug surely the start pulsating and just warp. Other than this the truck is awesome
What do I do if I don't have any paint cans?
ziptie the caliper to the spring or find something else to set it on. You just don't want the caliper hanging by the brake line.
Do you have to change the rotor every time you change a new breaks?
No, you can get them turned as long as they’re not too warped or worn. Most brake shops can turn them down for you. Most of the time I opt for new rotors since it’s more convenient to swap them out
I always buy new rotors. Cheap insurance.
i am getting some hard crunchy noice when breaking. is that normal?
Crunchy is not something you want to hear from brakes. I'd definitely take a look at those.
Don't ask this guy, he doesn't know. Call a real mechanic.
Your caliper pistons likely collapsed, you’ll need new caliper assembly, a step further than this vid shows
Size of the Bolt used for the removal of rotor ?
M8 x 1.25. You don’t need much length to push off the rotors
@@GarageAddiction thank you so much
Great video! Anyone hear the owl hooting in the background?
What do you do if the pins are rusted in the caliper?
PB blaster, heat, and a punch should do it!
@@GarageAddiction ended up using pb blaster, two hammers and a punch. Half hour job took 4 hours on each side.
@@tomballard4794 oof, that's a rough day
What that spray u used
Brake cleaner
Must be nice living in California. Here in NY I had to use a 20lb sledgehammer to get the rotors off my Tundra.
damn, that must have been a fun one.
there was things that you didn’t need to do, but a good job
video is great, however you must live in a PERFECT WORLD!. my 2014 brakes are so rusty, cleaning took about 1hr and it still not done... and the hard break line to the caliper snapped when gently trying to unscrew it (good its only $6 at toyota) but it will make it a 2 day job...
:( rust is the worst. I don't live in a perfect world but I guess the ridiculous cost of living in CA counteracts a few things haha
Toyota factory manual states 73 ft lbs for the front caliper bolts
Thanks, I wasn't very trusting in the Haynes manual spec.
Do you need the caliper grease?
Definitely, sometimes pads will come with a couple tubes too.
No you do not need caliper Grease
Most brake pad sets come with a packet of caliper grease. It's always best to clean the old grease off the caliper slide pins and regrease them with a new/clean grease. Silicone base is best. But if you had to and don't happen to have any grease, you should be fine getting by with the current greased pins. (That's unless they are bone dry/rusted stuck 😬)
After pressing the caliper pistons back, now the ABS light is on.
Did you reconnect the abs sensor?
Yeah don't listen to this guy he doesn't really know what he's doing he's very immature mechanic you're supposed to disconnect the battery before you do anything on that truck like he showed you negative terminal to be exact he showed you to unplug speed sensors and remove brake line brackets but forgot to unhook the battery which trips the computer
You don’t bleed the brake ?
Not unless I need to unhook a caliper or replace the brake fluid.
4x4?
Anti seize on the pins
please dont remove the wheel speed sensor.. there is zero need to do this. other than that.. good vid.
You can unclip the line from the bracket but unplugging the sensor isn't a problem either.
Yes, so just unclip the line and move on the calipers. This was more than needed.
I’m confused why you opted to not trust the torque spec for the caliper mount (120ft/lb )but you did for the lug nuts ( 97 ft/lb). If you did that because those fasteners looked sketchy then you should have replaced with new ones.
Does your torque wrench only go to hundred?
I have total faith that the Toyota engineers spec’d those fasteners correctly.
I could definitely feel that it was too tight. The spec I was going off of was a Hanes manual spec vs factory manual. Forums with the factory manual referenced land between 73-90.
@@GarageAddiction Makes sense now, understand where you’re coming from.
Good video you did.
You didn't need to bleed the brake fluid? That's what I hate most about doing brake jobs.
He never opened the lines no need to bleed
Can't get pin off to change the front breaks all rusty
Try soaking some PB blaster into the pins and use a punch to knock them out.
@@GarageAddiction we got them out finally then truck squeeking after changed break pads a rotars found out was the emergency brakes making loud noise
@@misscandy84 glad you managed to get them out and find the source!
Are those brake pads from the factory? A word of advice to everyone that uses AutoZone, Do NOT use the Duralast Extremes on these vehicles! You must shave the extra padding that they added on top that forms a flat "mountain top"! Yes they added extra padding on top of the brake pad! It looks great before you install, but it's a pain to install and your wheel will spin roughly and wobble, causing your rotor to become warped and decreasing your gas mileage! Just go O.E. size and you will have room between the inside of the pads and the rotors to allow the wheel to spin smoothly and freely like it's supposed to! Also don't forget to add brake lube on the top and bottom of the brake pad shims where they slide back and forth every time you press the brakes! You might want to clean those corners on the inside of the caliper where they make contact also. Great vid!
When taking off the rotor grab the biggest hammer you can fit and smack the fuck out of the rotor
How many others we’re excited to see how easy it was SUPPOSED TO BE, if you live in the North be ready for a shit show! The pins will be froze in! Get the dremel tool with a cutting wheel ,cut the pin end off ,center punch it and drill it 2/3 the way thru then stick a punch in and smash it out,lots of PB blaster! Great design Toyota ….bad choice of material. If it was stainless pins it would be 👍
Oof I've seen the comments about the nightmares these pose after getting hit with a few salty winters.
This work for 2011 Toyota tundra
I think 08-2019 are roughly the same
@@GarageAddiction ok thanks
You dont live in Canada do you lol
Very much no haha
So 10 minutes per side
10 minutes my ass, not in northest Ohio my friend, with the road salt and corrosion
That’s all it takes? I just paid the dealership $2200. 😢
😢
We can't get ours off all rusted
I can get yours off.
We have 2011 tundra
Yeah you don't have to do all that just to change pads...
Also you claim you did this in 10mins?😂
TOOOOOO MANY DELAYS IN THIS VIDEO👎
This was definitely NOT brakes in 10 mins. With editing and takes it looks about 45 to an hour of your time per wheel, NOT 10 mins. Be real bud....also, wear gloves, don't waste the brake clean its not real good for the environment but necessary for the job, be a little sparing . Amateur mechanically, good with video and editing. Mayne be honest with your post?
the battery?
You just stuck yourself out. Let me explain in 10 seconds (okay fine it really took about 2 minutes)
1.The '10 mins' is just a reference to the length of the video, nobody wants to watch an hour long video of doing brakes...right bud?
2. Don't worry about if another man is wearing gloves or not, its irrelevant.
3.Don't waste the brake clean? Do not ever tell another man how to do a job in his own house.
4. If you clicked to watch this video in hopes of doing brakes on any car in 10 minutes, you should probably pay someone to do yours.
He meant learn how to do replace your brakes in 10 min… lol
Why did you replace a perfectly good rotor?
Good vid but it blows my mind not have 4x4 on this truck
Why
oh ok work on a rusted out clapped out frozen lines then see how easy it is
Luckily (or unluckily for most things with an engine) I live in California inland enough where rust doesn’t exist. I left frozen Michigan a long time ago haha
The tundra is not a heavy truck
6k is hefty enough haha
Great video!