2014 Toyota Tundra (Front Brake Pads and Rotors) 112,000 miles

Parts (which fit my 2014 Tundra)
Rear Brakes
- Power Stop - Rear Extreme Kit, Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors (amzn.to/3tEoGUj)
Front Brakes
- Power Stop - Front Extreme Kit, Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors (amzn.to/3rAi2eW)
Front and Rear Brakes
- Power Stop - Front and Rear Extreme Kit, Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors (amzn.to/33OP430)
Tools
Car Jack (amzn.to/355DrVX)
Jack Stands (amzn.to/3FHPbL0)
Wheel Chocks (amzn.to/3nFrm04)
C-Clamp (amzn.to/33qoIVb)
Channel Lock Pliers (amzn.to/3qK1Qc8)
Needle Nose pliers (amzn.to/3fGkYkI)
Hammer (amzn.to/3tI8Iso)
Punch (amzn.to/3rwJ86X)
Impact Wrench (amzn.to/33syoP1)
Drill (amzn.to/3GMysax)
Wire wheel (amzn.to/3rAd0iv)
1/2” Drive Impact Socket Set (amzn.to/33T4KlP)
3/8” Drive ratchet set (amzn.to/3tL8ikO)
Torque Wrench (amzn.to/33PGxws)
1/2" Drive Extension (amzn.to/3tL8uAy)
Brake Bleeder Hose (amzn.to/3tHETbh)
Wrench Set (amzn.to/3qGNSHG)
Hex Key Wrench Set (amzn.to/3Ktz1Is)
1/2" Drive Cheater Bar (amzn.to/34Zajzr)
Catch Pan (amzn.to/3o1OWED)
5 Gallon Bucket (amzn.to/3AgscWj)
Scour Pad (amzn.to/3rvMNBJ)
Consumables
Brake Cleaner (amzn.to/3rAEtRe)
Brake Fluid (amzn.to/3qFB5p6)
Wheel Caliper Grease (amzn.to/33Badh7)
Loctite 268 Red Threadlocker Glue Stick (amzn.to/3GVTfs8)
This video is intended for entertainment purposes and personal documentation. My goal is help guide others when it comes to basic car services outlining my experiences. If you are not familiar with basic tools and usage techniques, or you are unsure if you can safely prepare a vehicle for service, I encourage you to review your car's owners manual and/or recruit the help of a friend or neighbor who can effectively fill the gap.
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
#Tundra #DrivewayCarRepair

[@howardlauridsen5423]

Good job on your video. Very helpful, smooth and easy to follow.

[@projectfixit]

Thank you!

[@richardwalker6790]

Very Simple instructions thank you

[@projectfixit]

You are welcome! Thank you for commenting and take care.

[@frankincaicedo9958]

Beautiful video bro.thanks.

[@projectfixit]

Most welcome!

[@laurieberg2880]

Thanks for the video

[@projectfixit]

You are welcome.

[@paulbrayman2223]

Great video

[@projectfixit]

Thank you!

[@jeffmerz3595]

Why red loctite? Good luck trying to remove those bolts again on next brake job

[@jacknimble1]

Do not open the bleeder screw people! Totally absurd.

[@landshass2849]

I like the drilled and slotted rotors from Powerstop brand, but I never liked the required break- in procedure where I had to look for clear roads to do the multiple stops. I'm on my fourth set of pads and the rotors still holding on. For my other car I switched to Centric drilled and slotted rotors which perform the same but no break-in procedure is required.

[@projectfixit]

Nice input. I must be honest, I did not perform the break-in on my other car. This time I tried the best I could with the in town roads I had to deal with. Regardless, no issues with the set-up to date. I hope I don't have any rotors warp on me. This is my goal. The wheel shimmy that creates is quite annoying.

[@MattMotivates02]

Question. Is it needed for you to bleed the caliper on the tundras or can you just push the pistons in?

[@projectfixit]

I'll let the Toyota Certified Technician pipe in on this one to give you an official answer, but.......All my life, I have pushed the pistons in after taking the cap off the master cylinder reservoir. I have older vehicles in my driveway with over 150k miles on them. I have never run into ABS issues. However, some viewers have urged me to stop preaching this technique. They argue pushing old fluid into the ABS module could cause premature failures. Honestly, I totally understand their argument. So, for this video I pushed the fluid through caliper bleeder. I must say, it's not too inconvenient and I'll probably do this from now on.

[@betaepsilon]

@@projectfixit The "old fluid" story defies all logic. What about the "old fluid" in the line upstream all the way to the ABS module? That old fluid is ok but the old fluid near the calipers is not????? How about the "old fluid" in the master cylinder reservoir??????? That "old fluid" is ok, but the fluid near the calipers is not???????? In order to get rid of all the "old fluid", one would have to evacuate the reservoir, lines, and calipers. A total flush, fill, and bleed.

[@JohnandKelbi]

I have never bled the brake lines to push the calipers back in. I’ve always wondered if it was really necessary. I’ve never had any problems yet.
But thanks for the video. Well done.

[@aussie2uGA]

@@JohnandKelbi The key is how much room you have in the master reservoir for the fluid to push back into. That fluid squishes back up the line into the container. There is usually enough empty space where it wont overflow. I take the cap off an watch as the calipers are being compressed.