2014 Toyota Tundra (Rear Brake Pads and Rotors) 112,000 miles
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Parts (which fit my 2014 Tundra)
Rear Brakes
- Power Stop - Rear Extreme Kit, Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors (amzn.to/3tEoGUj)
Front Brakes
- Power Stop - Front Extreme Kit, Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors (amzn.to/3rAi2eW)
Front and Rear Brakes
- Power Stop - Front and Rear Extreme Kit, Carbon Fiber Ceramic Brake Pads and Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors (amzn.to/33OP430)
Tools
Car Jack (amzn.to/355DrVX)
Jack Stands (amzn.to/3FHPbL0)
Wheel Chocks (amzn.to/3nFrm04)
C-Clamp (amzn.to/33qoIVb)
Channel Lock Pliers (amzn.to/3qK1Qc8)
Needle Nose pliers (amzn.to/3fGkYkI)
Hammer (amzn.to/3tI8Iso)
Punch (amzn.to/3rwJ86X)
Impact Wrench (amzn.to/33syoP1)
Drill (amzn.to/3GMysax)
Wire wheel (amzn.to/3rAd0iv)
1/2” Drive Impact Socket Set (amzn.to/33T4KlP)
3/8” Drive ratchet set (amzn.to/3tL8ikO)
Torque Wrench (amzn.to/33PGxws)
1/2" Drive Extension (amzn.to/3tL8uAy)
Brake Bleeder Hose (amzn.to/3tHETbh)
Wrench Set (amzn.to/3qGNSHG)
Hex Key Wrench Set (amzn.to/3Ktz1Is)
1/2" Drive Cheater Bar (amzn.to/34Zajzr)
Catch Pan (amzn.to/3o1OWED)
5 Gallon Bucket (amzn.to/3AgscWj)
Scour Pad (amzn.to/3rvMNBJ)
Consumables
Brake Cleaner (amzn.to/3rAEtRe)
Brake Fluid (amzn.to/3qFB5p6)
Wheel Caliper Grease (amzn.to/33Badh7)
Loctite 268 Red Threadlocker Glue Stick (amzn.to/3GVTfs8)
This video is intended for entertainment purposes and personal documentation. My goal is help guide others when it comes to basic car services outlining my experiences. If you are not familiar with basic tools and usage techniques, or you are unsure if you can safely prepare a vehicle for service, I encourage you to review your car's owners manual and/or recruit the help of a friend or neighbor who can effectively fill the gap.
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#Tundra #DrivewayCarRepair
This video is pretty darn accurate on right on
It helped me to replace both back n front brakes
Thank you for a great video
Awesome. You are welcome. Thank you for providing feedback!
I think the bolts are 8mm/1.25. That thread in the rotor holes next to the studs. And pop that rotor off without having to hit the hub face I got 2015 tundra and I love your video. Thank hope this helps.
Awesome feedback. Thank you and take care!
Thanks! I did exactly what you did here for rear brakes and I’m so happy with the outcome! Great parts list. Great tips and recommendations. Auto repair shop wanted 2x what it cost me in parts. Took me 4 hours one afternoon. Will be coming back to your channel for the front brakes.
I watched no fewer than 4 other similar vids. This one’s the best by far. I did watch one vid that showed what not to do, which was helpful (don’t grease the tips of the pins or the grease build up won’t allow full extension in the boot and the pads won’t wear evenly).
Many thanks again!
You are welcome and thank you for the Super Thanks! I, too, am very satisfied with these brakes and rotors. I have used the Power-stop pads in the past and must say they are good quality. My son keeps telling me he wants to install them on his Ram 1500 whenever it is time to service his brakes. Good point on the video referencing the grease on pin tips. I think I saw that video, too. Anyway, take care and enjoy the new hardware. Be sure to tackle the front ones when the time comes. I have a video on those as well.
Great Video! Good camera angles. Also, thanks for the tips and torque numbers throughout.
You are welcome and thanks for feedback!
is the torque 65 for sure ,is it not to tied?
@projectfixit I'm dreading to do mine but only cause my neighbors live so close to me you'd think being in a desert by New Mexico they'd spread out the land more nope I swear these zoning regulations are getting ridiculous 😂
Y r u cracking the bleeder ? All u need to do is remove the reservoir cap and fluid will back flow back into reservoir as u compress piston back in
So I don't have to crack the bleeder ? That would be amazing if all I had to do was take off the cap
I used Raybestos E3 pads and rotors,, WOW , I am really liking this combo, also I opened all 4 bleeders and let it drain completely then refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid , closed the bleeders after the new fluid came through, a quick bleed , all good
Sweet!
Thanks brother !!!! Great video I used power stop as well.
You bet! I absolutely love them. I appreciate the feedback.
Do you need to mess with the bleeder screw every time you change the break pads as well? What happens if I don’t do it? I did front break pads, thinking about doing rear rotors, and didn’t let any fluid out
You can always remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and push the old fluid back through the system. I have done that for years. However, for this video I released the bleeder screw and pushed the old fluid out replenishing it when I was done with fresh. Viewers have commented on my past videos suggesting I not encourage people to push the old fluid through the brake system as this might risk contaminating the ABS system.
Interesting! Never thought about that
Those rubber pieces in the rotors… what are they for? We didn’t put ours on..
This plug (14:44) keeps debris from entering the parking brake linkages and shoes (4:19). Its design allows for parking brake shoe adjustments.
@@projectfixitassuming the new rotor has been installed so the adjustment opening in the rotor matches up with the adjustment mechanism on the e-brake.
Were those torque specs accurate? Just seemed a little tight.
Not quite sure why you needed to crack the bleeder screw. Caliper should just compress without having to do all that.
How are the stopgear extremes road manners for daily driving without towing? I was eying those but I don’t tow but my cruiser is a heavy beast.
I am extremely happy with these pads and rotors. They still look brand new. It's all been city driving without a trailers for me since the replacement.
Great video sir.
Thank you for your kind words and taking the time to comment!
Great video, thank you . Is it necessary to bleed the brakes a little or not necessary?
You must compress the caliper. I chose to push the fluid out the bleeder. Another option is to take the cap off your master cylinder.
Not at all necessary unless you open the system ie: change caliper, or hoses. Dont understand why he did all that.
Excellent video Thx
You're welcome!
I have a 2017 tundra that i plan on changing all rotors and brakes. hearing the noise SMH lol. I don't have the brake and caliber grease you have but I do have the "Super Lube Synthetic Grease", I bought from harbor freight. Will that work the same???
I personally have asked myself the same question, but decided not to risk it. I would stick with brake caliper grease as it is formulated for the brakes, temperatures and rubber components related to the brakes.
So it is $54.00 cheaper if you buy the front and back kits SEPERATELY?
It looks that way. I am sure with a little research, one could save money buying them together. This was just a snapshot in time when I made the video. I caught this little detail shortly after I posted the video. Thanks your attention to detail and bringing to to light.
Can I get away with doing front one month, rear the next month? OR should front/back be done together?
As long as you do both fronts at the same time and both rears at the same time, you should be golden. Of course, if the pads are to their limits, you should not wait. Take care! Oh. By the way, I am super happy with these rotors and pads!
Question…I replaced my rear brakes and rotors on my 2014 Tundra and went to drive it and they sound like the brakes are rubbing against my rotors making a constant scrapping noise. Any ideas?
Hopefully the pads were inserted the proper way with friction side facing the rotors. Otherwise, you will hear metal to metal when braking.
@@projectfixit definitely have the correct side towards the rotors. It does sound like the wear indicator but the rotors have a film on them from just driving around the block and are not damaged at all. I sprayed brake cleaner on them and it came right off. It sounds like to brakes are constantly against the rotors? If ales sense?
Could be the brake dust shield. Google it and you should get more info
@@Wise-Tech33 Did you do the proper break-in procedure for the pads?
Sounds like your caliper is not sliding freely on the pins and so when you let off the brake pedal, there is still contact between pad and rotor.
I can’t get my rotors off
Pretty sure they label those rotors incorrectly. These directional rotors go the other way.
Thanks for the feedback! You did have me double checking myself and after careful research this particular manufacturer instructs installing the way I show in the video. Thank goodness. Anyway, I am super satisfied with these rotors. I love them.
@@projectfixit yeah sorry I did some more research as well and evidently it has to do with ventilation fins inside the rotor. If they are straight through the rotor can go in any direction BUT if the vents are at an angle 📐 it matters which way they go. I was told that some manufacturers put a R or L in the part number or sticker on the rotor just to prevent customers from calling in for directions. After I put my rotors on my 2014 Tundra I freaked out because I thought I put them on backwards and realized it didn’t matter.😅 Thank you for the video though and the time required to make it.