Toyota Tundra Four Piston Caliper Brake Pad Replacement! Toyota Four Piston Calipers
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Welcome back, in today's video I show you how to replace brake pads on a 2007 Toyota Tundra. This simple process applies to the following vehicles. Lexus LX 570 2008-2014, Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2013, Toyota Sequoia 2008-2014 & Toyota Tundra 2007-2014. If you found this video helpful please give me a thumbs up! I hope everyone has an awesome day and I will see you all In the next video!
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Items used in today's video
Brake Caliper Grease
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My favorite gloves Diamond Grip Latex Gloves Medium Case by Microflex.
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I hope you found this video helpful, if so give me a thumbs up! thank you for your support 👍
Thank you for this brother i subscribed based on this video alone
If one piston takes off and is out...,..what do I do?......feels like it does want to go back in. Ty ty for responses
@@mischafellner2892 Center the old breaks on both pistons so you push both pistons in at the same time. If you only push one at a time the other one will push out as you push in the other.
@@globaleffect1969. Ty that’s what did ty. It dripped a drop of oil. But it seems ok.
Appreciate it! Working on my son's 2000 Toyota Tundra break pads now. As a mom, I find these youtube videos to help my boys. We got it done!!! Wish we could attach pics to comments...
Best mechanic I’ve seen on video in a long time.
Decent front brake pads are around $50, or $28 if I want to go cheap, or $75 for OEM.
I was just quoted $450 parts/labor to do this job on my 2008 Tundra. The breakdown of that is $125 labor, $325+tax for parts. Looks like I'll be doing this myself. Thanks Eric!
thank you for watching, this is a very simple job. I would not pay to get this done, hope I can save you some money👍
OEM are akebono.
I just bought all new parts to do the front brakes on my 2014 Tundra. OEM Rotors, OEM pads, OEM shims, OEM spring clips. The dealer parts guy knocked 10% off for me just asking if he could work with me on the price a little and it was $295 out the door including taxes. I'll spend 90 minutes or more doing the job and unlike this video, I'll do it right. Jack up front, jack stands, remove front wheels, remove hardware, loosen brake bleed screw and put a hose on it to a small bucket, press pistons back in, remove caliper, remove rotor. Wire brush rotor mating surface on hub, clean it and the new rotors, apply anti-seize to mating surface, install rotor, caliper, new shims, grease, pads and new hardware. Repeat on other side then flush old fluid out of lines bleeding the brake lines. Lot to do to do it right. If you were quoted $125 labor for this at a dealership, I'd jump on it.
I watched your video and was able to change my front brakes with no problem. Thank you for posting this video to youtube.
thank you👍 Glad the video helped!
Thank you just did my 2010 with no issues thanks to this video I was about to take the whole caliper off thinking it was set up like my last vehicle I subscribed based on this video alone
Thank you glad you found it useful 👍
The best video out the!! Everyone make it seems difficult by pulling unnecessary parts including wheel sensor which not needed great video and straight forward.
That's what I was wondering! I understand if you have to take off the rotor, but it doesn't appear necessary if you're just replacing the pads.
Did mine in the summer of 23. Pretty much did what you did except for the caliper pins. I live in the rust belt os yeah 3 to 4 hrs per side. Half a can of pb blaster a punch and a hammer. Tap tap tap spray repeat.
Nice video man, I’d make sure to clean up and lube those slide pins too 👍🏼
Good job on the video. Taking out the pads one at a time makes it easier to push the pistons back, and I'd remove some brake fluid from the reservoir before pushing the pistons back.
Thank you awesome vidieo. i also saved me some time showing me i dont have to remove calipure. Thanks again
If you put a little brake grease, sylglide , or copper ant seize on both the ends of those pins they are less likely to rust in place.
Why did you NOT apply anit squeak grease to both brake pads?
Great job. Good camera angle and easy to hear as well understand.
Thank you.
Made this look too easy sir. Thank you!
Thanks for the tutorial. It looks just like my 2000 too. One small tip, don't touch the pad material or rotor with greasy fingers/gloves.
Nice video. Looks easy enough. Do you have a video for the rear brake pads on a 2017 Tundra?
Supper simple brake job .
Definitely helped a lot! Never done any maintenance myself but I did the brakes and it was super easy. I pumped the brakes 3 times and it got stiff but then they went back to soft after driving for a few minutes? I didn’t open the bleeder or remove any hoses, called a local shop and they said maybe needs a brake bleed
thank you so much! it depends on how soft it feels normal it will get softer because you have brake power assist to help make the pedal not feel hard
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE okay thank you. They were soft before changing but I thought that was because the pads were low but maybe it’s just normal. I tried pumping brakes again and they won’t get stiff at all - read that maybe the trucks ABS system is the reason for that but not positive!
I just changed the pads on my dad's tundra that he let me borrow for a couple weeks. The brakes were very sensitive because the pads were uneven and the truck would shake when braking. The new brakes feel kinda spongey but maybe thats because i got used to the shitty sensitive ones. I even bled the lines to be safe.
great explanation, saved me a lot of time
Nice work. I like to clean the pins on a wire wheel or whatever. A little lube on the ends of the pad ears as well. I have similar brakes in our '01 Tundra and '13 Lexus GS350. How were the Brake Best pads?
Excellent video good idea for the piston hack.. Thank you for a very informative Video. Thanks Wade Out..
Thank you for watching
Crack open the bleeder screw as you do this, your pistons compress much easier, just use a tube to catch the fluid coming out, top of the master with clean fresh fluid after your done.
^ this. Also, that brake fluid that you bleed out while compressing the pads (the easy way, with the bleed screw open) has been trapped in the caliper. It gets extremely hot & tends to get contaminated and decay over time. If it’s dark in color, it has probably been contaminated with moisture (bad). It’s good to flush that stuff out rather than push it back into the system for the next service interval. You must then bleed any air out of the system, along with more of the old fluid, but that’s easy with two people working together when not in a hurry.
Thank you!!!! Much love!!!!
You don't ever want to open unless you have to.
@s.l.faulkner1758 I'm an ASE master technician (over 25 years now) and a T-TEN instructor (Toyota). Cracking the bleeders while compressing the pistons is the proper way to perform this procedure .
An adhesive like brake quiet goes on the back,so when calipers retract pads go with them.no drag. Grease on contact travel points and pins.other than that great vid.
Brother you the Man. a lot easier this way
thank you for watching!
I wish I would have seen this vid before I did my front brakes. I pulled the caliper off (which I didn't realize was unnecessary) and didn't put the right kind of grease on the back of the pad so it squeaks loudly. Oh well...live and learn. Thanks for the upload.
It's all a learning game next time you will do it better thank you for watching!
Lol I didn’t know it was this easy I opened up the caliper in half and spilled all the brake fluid now I’m watching this 😂😂😂😂
That's awesome... you are the pro
Genius!! ...using the old pads to compress the caliper pistons. A first for me...nice!
thank you I appreciate it 👍🏻
Awesome video! Saved me hundreds!!!
thats awesome! thank you for watching!
Thank you 👍🏽
Not so easy if you live in New England where they salt and sand the roads in the Winter. My lower pins were rusted in place and very difficult to remove. If you beat on the pins, they mushroom on the end. It's a good idea to replace the pins when changing the pads and lub them up with anti-seize.
I had to use a bastard file on my calipers and sand the paint off the top and bottom of the new pad backing to get them to slide freely.
@@jackroacher551 On the Toyota, the flats where the pads sit in the caliper body often get rusty and uneven. I live in Wisconsin where they use salt and that awful beat juice which rusts exposed metal. These flats where the brake pads sit in the caliper are wire brushed and then filed with a flat file to expose fresh metal. I also hit these areas with silicone brake grease, like the purple Permatex brake grease.
Great video, hopefully this the same set up for the 2017
Was it the same?
Hey Eric, thank you so much for this. Off-subject question, where did you mount your camera for this POV? The angle is perfect
thanks man! and right in front of me on a tri pod lol
When you took the brakes apart there was only a spring on the bottom pin not the top
@@adaster98 they come from factory with one
My 2000 looks identical to this thanks so much
Thank you
Nice and simple.
My one on the left side is stuck how do I get that to go in the bottom one is in but the top one I'm having issues with
Thanks man . You helped out just now
thank you!
Great video
Thank you sir, you have a new subscriber 👍
thank you!
SOLID! DANG I took the whole caliper off......not anymore!
Wouldn't you want to turn the rotors or replace them? From some of the shots in your video, it looked like they were in good shape
Thank you great video have you ever thought about changing your gloves when you're working with the new pads so that you don't contaminate the pad surface with grease? Also is it okay to lubricate those pins with a dab of brake Grease?
I DON'T KNOW HOW ANYBODY COULD PUT A LIKE ON THIS VIDEO OR EVEN FOLLOW THIS GUY WITH HIM USING THE HARDWARE THAT HE'S USING THAT STUFF IS CHEAP CRAP!!!!
Nice. Are the rear brakes the same?
The rears have caliper slide pins making them a little different but not hard at all to replace
Nice job
good video but i'd never put a jackstand where you did
Please explain why
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE Too far rear.
😂😂😂
Someone needs to do the New England version. All the winter salt males this a much uglier operation. I came looking for tricks to avoid, at least some of the hammering involved, without glazing my rotors.
Pads are still good !
Looks like you live in an area with zero rust. Those hole pins took me a long time to pound out.
thankfully we dont have a rust issue where I live but we do have a heat issue.
Same, over an hour just on one set of pins.
Great job
thank you!
Thanks!!! Saved me some Ca$h!! 👍👍👍👍
Challenge mode: rust.
I just spent 2 hours hammering 3 of the 4 pins out and still can't get number 4. And the pads don't budge even with a pry bar
I changed mine and pumped brake pedal n they have locked up
You’re new brake pads got contaminated from the grease on your gloves? Brake pads should not have any oil or grease
Thank you.
Now do that on a Canadian caliper pin! How rust changes things...
Thank you for the video
Awesome, thanks!!!
Awesome
thank you!
Thanks a lot brother.
Are the rear brake pads exactly the same or slightly different?
They are basically the same just smaller
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE gottcha, hopefully I don't mess up the parking brake
well done
What a g 👍
👍👍👍👍
It’s for 2007-20
My dad and I changed disks and pads on a tundra and now the brake pedal needs to be pressed all the way to the floor to brake. I do want to say that I took apart the caliper and brake fluid came out.
(I'm a noob at mechanic) any ideas??
Forgot to grease the side of the pads and clean the pins and grease that as well. Just saying you can better improve the brake performance adding these steps
I hope you didn't take payment for this brake job. I say this because you didn't even clean the brake pads, they were greasy when you installed them. Did you even check the rotors for Runout?
you seem like a pro, why are you watching the video ? 🤔 thank you for watching👍
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE Just trying to get your views up man.. I'm sure you it will help you get a shop of your own some day.
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE anyone that does their own appreciates what you showed, being anal is tech choice but, this is really all you need to do, thanks man, I really appreciate the help.
Would draining the master cylinder reservoir of brake fluid make pushing the Pistons easier? (3:15) seemed like they were under pressure
no you don't want to drain it because you will introduce air into the system that you will have to later bleed its not issue to compress liquid through a small opening on the caliper where it meets the line
Yes. The method shown in the video is the incorrect way to press the pistons back in. Loosen the bleeder screw and push the pistons in, pushing old, contaminated fluid out the screw hole.
no resurface???
not needed since it doesn't have a lip on the rotor and no vibration while hard braking
Gonna ruin the new pads regardless
@@mrmooninator haha okay
Gotta take brake jobs seriously and not cut corners. It’s not a laughing matter, if one of your clients end up into a major accident due to brake fade, reusing already glazed rotors. Thats on you.
@@mrmooninator you clearly don't know what a glazed rotor looks like or how you even get glazed rotors, im laughing at what your trying to point out just to get some likes or prove that you might know what your talking about. Truck has been running and braking fine because it doesnt have glazed rotor or warped rotors. Maybe you should stick to playing video games and not working on cars. Thanks for watching
You didnt turn the rotors??
No it wasn't needed
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE How do you know?
2 of the pads have some small hooks,do you know why?
those are called "squealers" they are their to make a loud noise when your brakes are low on material.
3:59 When you removed the original clips, the top one was missing.
yes correct, I'm assuming who replaced them last didn't install both of the clips
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE There is only suppose to be one clip at the bottom. Still appreciate the video. Thank you
David Gold only needs one on the bottom
Where’s the rust
Shade tree mechanic for sure
Lol "pull the pin out"
Not a single piece of information about cleaning the surface on which the brake pads slide. Nothing about cleaning the pins ...You have not used ANY lubricant for pad blocks and pins !!!!!! I'm lucky I'm not your neighbor !!!!! I do not recommend such a replacement of brake pads
Thank you for your feedback, If you need step by step instructions I would not advise for you to work on your vehicle for your safety.
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE your username states DIY......if you are missing steps in a DIY video, people will troll you.
Fair point but it's not step by step garage
This doesn't compute, where's the rust?
Doggy ❤ 😂
Great video, would give you 2 thumbs up if I could. Sub here
Thanks for watching!
Don't grab the new pad with greasy gloves ..... come on man !!
Bad video. Appreciate your efforts though
Haha okay
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE He is right. You didn't do it right. Plus you edited out the part where you fucked up the rotor trying to force the pistons open while the caliper was still connected.
@Serithin you both are 🤡 haha I broke the rotor with the brake pad my fault. I guess the pad is stronger than the actual rotor
@@ERICSDIYGARAGE Well you live and you learn.
Ghetto style 👎
The end result is the same that's all that matters
Crease the pins
They don't need grease it will attract dirt