The only thing I learned was that keeping the brake pedal depressed stops the syphoning of fluid. Just when I thought I knew everything about Brakes too!) Awesome, thanks for the lesson!
Hey Kenny, I’m a new subscriber and just found your channel about two weeks ago. What I enjoy about your channel is there is very little fluff. Giving the viewers the benefit of the doubt that they are not totally ignorant when it comes to wrenching is refreshing! Keep the great content coming and looking forward to more entertainment 👍
I would suggest using a wire wheel on that disc mounting surface every time. Eric O at South Main auto channel has a few he uses and one is circular and goes over the stud and easily gets the area right around the stud.
When I self bleed my brakes I always use a rubber hose that fits tightly over the end of the brake bleeder screw and put a small cup that sits near or below the caliper and on top of a upside down 5 gallon bucket. I put a small amount of brake fluid in my cup and ensure the hose end in the cup is submersed in brake fluid. Starting at the furthest away from the master cylinder I then pump my brakes from inside the cab and do this for several pumps with bleeder open. Then close the bleeder and go to next caliper This pushes all the air out when pedal id being depressed and as it sucking the nothing but pure fluid back into the system when the pedal is on its way up. This pushes a lot of the old fluid into the cup as well, which is great. I start at the farthest caliper from master cylinder at work my way to the closet caliper I have only a gravel driveway and jack up and with tires removed and on jack stands is how I accomplish this job. I usually do it twice to ensure no air and that all old brake fluid is out of the system by witnessing the color of the fluid in the cup. It is really cool if you have a person to pump and hold the brake pedal to watch how thorough this process truly is. I am a super piker and do everything as frugally as possible. Does anyone do this method as I mentioned
Problem doing it that way air can still get sucked back in through the loose threads on the bleed nipple, always better to pressurize the system at the at the master cylinder reservoir, then crack each bleed nipple open in turn.
Great video! FYI to Kenny. I own the same Grand Caravan as you. I saw it in a previous video. If your rear brakes start dragging, it could be the parking brake cables (if you use them). My Dodge dealer couldn't figure out why I was having problems. I figured it out myself 😀. It has happened twice. They were corroding and seizing up.
I have some really big c-clamps to push the piston in a bit to aid in caliper removal. The screw end goes on the back of the pad, and the clamp body goes on the caliper, and tightening the clamp pushes the piston in.
When a brake line ruptured on my 2002 F150, I found out that a complete set of preformed SS brake lines were available for it for a little over a hundred bucks so I bought the set.
I've nused the pedal depresser before. I always preferred to use all new fluid. And since they need to be bled anyways, I never thought about it. It does make sense though.
So the hose was internally collapsing and keeping the brake fluid pressure high at the caliper. Correct? Many years ago I had a friend had an old 1960 Rambler American. After driving it a while all the brakes would get warm and start locking up. After it sat and cooled for awhile it would drive just fine. What problem would have caused that? Nice video. I subscribed. I enjoy your channel. Tom
Yes, the hose was acting like a one way valve. I will make another video soon and better explain what was happening. On your friends rambler, I'd be willing to bet the brake rod from the pedal into the master was adjusted too tight and when everything heated up and expanded, the fluid couldn't return because the cha Berks became blocked by the piston in the master . That was a single circuit brake system so it would affect all the brakes
Kenny, ❤REALLY love your videos 📹. You are instructive, informative, and just great to watch 🎉! I find it hard to put this tablet down or go to another channel.
I usually don't like showing both sides, unless something comes up unexpected on the other side. I always feel like it's just "Filler" other channels use to get more view time . But if you guys want to see it , I can start doing it !! Thanks for watching and thanks for the input !!
Yes it makes sense that you push the piston in the master cylinder past the chambers a bit and it blocks the reservoir from emptying - I didn’t realize this either, over the years I have wasted alot of new brake fluid by constantly refilling the reservoir while the system is open
I am seventy three, made my living doing heavy equipment as its easier because you never have to man handle stuff, you need to use equipment to lift or twist, you know.... on brakes done at home, too many times found the person installing their calipers would put the bleeder at the bottom so no pedal. Can not squeeze air no matter how hard you try.... this system is the same even on heavy equipment. Lyle makes some really great tools
Except when it comes with their poorly built flat jawed spreading pliers had to buy cheap cost Chinese ones due to USA made pliers that broke at the end ! The Chinese ones are way better built better tempered metal ,,,, Same as Richards built putty knives they end up rusting in no time at all,,,have cheap Chinese built ones and it does not ever rust !
@@eleanorecopet4090 I for honestly can not argue this point. I got crippled up in 2005, and since I have had several surgeries, trusting those doctors was a horrible mistake or maybe I just was not repairable. The thing is that after getting badly hurt, the lumbar region was crushed so bad they used a lot of cheap as I call it parts and plastic stuff to form a spine again. Since all of that happened, I am not able to lift the weight of a soup can in my arms at a half arms length. So that said, I no longer can work, that part of life I so loved is now longer available to me. I would like to make a talking point and get your opinion on.... I for one, back when I was working, seen a lot of really cheap tools on the market, most any person thinking they had put available in the back of their truck all this cheap tools that did more damage to the stuff being taken off by rounding off the sides of bolts and such. THOSE cheap tools tho, are as I learned, the best that money can buy till you go into speciality tools or test equipment. Its like they had finally made enough money to retool their equipment and invested in making very good tool. In my personal shop off of the side of my garage at home was snap on tool boxes... just those boxes alone would line up or fill a whole wall in most peoples average size homes. nearly forty feet long of tool boxes that came from my big equipment repair shop after I sold that business which is still in business today there in Anchorage. I am seventy three now and this is the way for me to kind of socialize with people as I do live alone in a cabin in central alaska. I might see one person in say a two week period of seeing other people but for a traveling nurse who dresses my legs so can go on with my life and she also changes the different fluids in this machine that keeps me alive, there are times I think of pulling those tubes out and just head for a "Nap". I apologize for taking up your time should I have offended you
Always enjoy your videos. Great seeing how things are put together so down the road if something happens I'll have a better understanding what went wrong.
I had the same thing happen on a ‘92 Bravada once. One of the front hoses would let fluid in, but not out. The aluminum wheel got so hot it melted the center cap!
To get the brake line loose from the hose, cut the rubber hose off as close as you can to the crimp, heat up the are where the brake line gains into the hose. The rubber will catch fire and Pop out, be ready, after you can get the brake line nut hot enough to remove from the old hose and won’t twist off the line or beak it.
I recently did that very thing, like 2 days ago. 🤔🤓🍻 I don't always do it but what came out of the calipers was filthy and what was in the master cylinder reservoir wasn't much better. 😢🤓🍻
i was taught to bleed in pairs but you are like get some pressure in there release pedal and just open the bleeder wait couple of minutes. i will try that next time. thank you again for these awesome techniques.
I had the same thing. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find the problem as the car had sat in their lot and the brakes cooled down. Finally I said get it up on the lift NOW and they found it 😂
fantastic love your work you have taught me a lot for those extra little things most people tend to go, no it will be okay. Thanks Melbourne Australia.
My first break job on my first car 72 maverick I put power steering fluid in break master cylinder thinking all hydraulic fluid was the same lesson learned it swelled all the rubber seals
I use a mayonnaise jar with a tygon tube connected to the bleed valve and the other end run through the lid to the bottom of the jar with another hole in the top of the jar to vent. That way I can pump the pedal to speed up the bleeding or just let it gravity drain. With the tube at the bottom of the jar, the end is covered by fluid and air can't get back in the line. I also use a hand held mity vac to bleed the system sometimes.
When you put rhe wrench on the first caliper for leverage. You locked wrenches together not everyone knows thst old school trick can show that amd enlighten rhe younget guys
WHAT?? I open the bleeder - Aha, it the hose! Well that is not obvious to me, what was the logic on that diagnosis? Also, if it is the hose why did you change the calipers? I promise I'm not being critical, I don't understand the reasoning - and I don't have any alternative ideas. I have watched about 15 of your videos and I really enjoy the content so far.
The hang up was on the caliper for sure. Spongy pedal or no brakes at all I can see the issue with the hose. Or wet line. But the caliper was the issue
It can be the hose sometimes. They can internally break down either by age or abuse (hang caliper from) and can internally form a blockage or check valve and prevent the fluid from returning back up the line as it should when you lift your foot off the pedal.
I think the logic Kenny used was when he opened the bleeder the piston released. This must mean that there was pressure in the system. The only way to have pressure would be if the hose collapsed and did not allow fluid to return once foot taken off of brake. If piston was still sticking once bleed nipple opened then must be caliper or pad issue. Happy to be corrected
All that work & didn't replace the flex line from the axle to the body. 🤣Was the parking brake assembly pulled apart & cleaned? As for cleaning the axle flange, that needs as good as a cleaning as the front. Needle scaler works great on that.
Not one single parts store had the axle flex hose available until Saturday, and I was leaving with this truck on Friday night. And No , I didn't take the parking brake assembly apart . It works perfectly. If it's used every time you park, you never have issues . A needle scaler does work excellent, and I should have mentioned it. Thanks for the input! I do appreciate it!
@@WrenchingWithKenny Understand about the no-stock brake hose deal. China freight needle scaler makes fast work of rusty axle flanges. Do enjoy your videos.
Can you slice open the hose long ways and show the failure mode? Also advise people to not hang their calipers by the brake hose as it can poss damage it internally.
Absolutely , i will cut one open the next time i replace one . I do stress that in other videos about hanging the calipers. I didn't on this one because I was replacing the calipers and hose . But you made some great points !! I appreciate the input !!
Actually that is new info for and I have been doing my own for 40+ years. I usually do support it on an inverted 5 gallon bucket but on some vehicles that isn't possible/easy if you're doing it in your yard. 😢🤔🤓🍻
@@billsmith2212 I bought the Lisle broken spark plug removal tool for my 2004 Ford F150 and it worked great! All 8 plugs broke and the Lisle tool removed them all. Only took me 3 days! On my '65 Impala SS, I can change all the plugs in about 20 min.
Couldn’t you have just unthreaded the pass side brakeline fitting from the end of the hose and rethread it into new ? As opposed to cutting the tube and flaringbit again? I always unthread those retaining clips from the studs and use them to retain the new rotors during reassembly
How do you feel about bleeding the brakes with a vacuum gun? I've done it and it seems to work but I'd like your opinion. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
The only issue I’ve had using a vacuum method is the bleeder needs to have some thread sealer on it so you don’t suck air into your mityvac through the bleeder threads. I switched to a motive powerbleeder and haven’t went back to any other method. One person job.
Авто/Мото
The only thing I learned was that keeping the brake pedal depressed stops the syphoning of fluid. Just when I thought I knew everything about Brakes too!) Awesome, thanks for the lesson!
Kenny, I have been fixing my cars for 55 years...I still learn because of you....Thanks so much for teaching me!
Kenny is awesome !!!! Need more videos. Highlight of my day !!
Hey Kenny, I’m a new subscriber and just found your channel about two weeks ago. What I enjoy about your channel is there is very little fluff. Giving the viewers the benefit of the doubt that they are not totally ignorant when it comes to wrenching is refreshing! Keep the great content coming and looking forward to more entertainment 👍
I would suggest using a wire wheel on that disc mounting surface every time. Eric O at South Main auto channel has a few he uses and one is circular and goes over the stud and easily gets the area right around the stud.
Remember. Everything is a hammer, except a screwdriver. Because that’s a chisel 😊
When I self bleed my brakes I always use a rubber hose that fits tightly over the end of the brake bleeder screw and put a small cup that sits near or below the caliper and on top of a upside down 5 gallon bucket. I put a small amount of brake fluid in my cup and ensure the hose end in the cup is submersed in brake fluid. Starting at the furthest away from the master cylinder I then pump my brakes from inside the cab and do this for several pumps with bleeder open. Then close the bleeder and go to next caliper This pushes all the air out when pedal id being depressed and as it sucking the nothing but pure fluid back into the system when the pedal is on its way up. This pushes a lot of the old fluid into the cup as well, which is great. I start at the farthest caliper from master cylinder at work my way to the closet caliper I have only a gravel driveway and jack up and with tires removed and on jack stands is how I accomplish this job. I usually do it twice to ensure no air and that all old brake fluid is out of the system by witnessing the color of the fluid in the cup. It is really cool if you have a person to pump and hold the brake pedal to watch how thorough this process truly is. I am a super piker and do everything as frugally as possible. Does anyone do this method as I mentioned
Problem doing it that way air can still get sucked back in through the loose threads on the bleed nipple, always better to pressurize the system at the at the master cylinder reservoir, then crack each bleed nipple open in turn.
Great video! FYI to Kenny. I own the same Grand Caravan as you. I saw it in a previous video. If your rear brakes start dragging, it could be the parking brake cables (if you use them). My Dodge dealer couldn't figure out why I was having problems. I figured it out myself 😀. It has happened twice. They were corroding and seizing up.
I have some really big c-clamps to push the piston in a bit to aid in caliper removal. The screw end goes on the back of the pad, and the clamp body goes on the caliper, and tightening the clamp pushes the piston in.
When a brake line ruptured on my 2002 F150, I found out that a complete set of preformed SS brake lines were available for it for a little over a hundred bucks so I bought the set.
Yes, inline tube sells them they are exactly like the oem lines and stainless steel to boot - they also have fuel lines etc
I've nused the pedal depresser before. I always preferred to use all new fluid. And since they need to be bled anyways, I never thought about it. It does make sense though.
I used the brake bleeder from Harbor Freight on my motorcycle and that made it easy
It makes it nice that you know how to work on vehicles. I like your tutorials.
So the hose was internally collapsing and keeping the brake fluid pressure high at the caliper. Correct?
Many years ago I had a friend had an old 1960 Rambler American. After driving it a while all the brakes would get warm and start locking up. After it sat and cooled for awhile it would drive just fine. What problem would have caused that?
Nice video. I subscribed. I enjoy your channel. Tom
Yes, the hose was acting like a one way valve. I will make another video soon and better explain what was happening. On your friends rambler, I'd be willing to bet the brake rod from the pedal into the master was adjusted too tight and when everything heated up and expanded, the fluid couldn't return because the cha Berks became blocked by the piston in the master . That was a single circuit brake system so it would affect all the brakes
I like the pedal depressor tool. Brake hoses are notorious for swelling shut.
Kenny always cracks me up @03:01 , I love his accent also
Great video. Not sure exactly how you decided the problem was the brake line.
Kenny I 2:05 like your show the way you explain how to fix it thank you
Kenny,
❤REALLY love your videos 📹. You are instructive, informative, and just great to watch 🎉! I find it hard to put this tablet down or go to another channel.
We want to watch you doing it all. Not just one side
Honestly, I just started watching your channel, and I have to agree. Longer videos, please! Awesome job, Kenny.
I usually don't like showing both sides, unless something comes up unexpected on the other side. I always feel like it's just "Filler" other channels use to get more view time . But if you guys want to see it , I can start doing it !!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the input !!
@Wrenching With Kenny thank you Kenny! Awesome to hear
Second verse, same as the first
@@kellismith4329 not necessarily
Kenny, I really appreciate and picked up on the brake pedal depressor stopping the flow of fluid tip. Thank you.
Yes it makes sense that you push the piston in the master cylinder past the chambers a bit and it blocks the reservoir from emptying - I didn’t realize this either, over the years I have wasted alot of new brake fluid by constantly refilling the reservoir while the system is open
I am seventy three, made my living doing heavy equipment as its easier because you never have to man handle stuff, you need to use equipment to lift or twist, you know.... on brakes done at home, too many times found the person installing their calipers would put the bleeder at the bottom so no pedal. Can not squeeze air no matter how hard you try.... this system is the same even on heavy equipment. Lyle makes some really great tools
Thank you for your input !! You are 100% right about that , air gets compressed and won't come out !!
Keep Wrenching!!
Except when it comes with their poorly built flat jawed spreading pliers had to buy cheap cost Chinese ones due to USA made pliers that broke at the end ! The Chinese ones are way better built better tempered metal ,,,, Same as Richards built putty knives they end up rusting in no time at all,,,have cheap Chinese built ones and it does not ever rust !
@@eleanorecopet4090 I for honestly can not argue this point. I got crippled up in 2005, and since I have had several surgeries, trusting those doctors was a horrible mistake or maybe I just was not repairable. The thing is that after getting badly hurt, the lumbar region was crushed so bad they used a lot of cheap as I call it parts and plastic stuff to form a spine again. Since all of that happened, I am not able to lift the weight of a soup can in my arms at a half arms length. So that said, I no longer can work, that part of life I so loved is now longer available to me. I would like to make a talking point and get your opinion on.... I for one, back when I was working, seen a lot of really cheap tools on the market, most any person thinking they had put available in the back of their truck all this cheap tools that did more damage to the stuff being taken off by rounding off the sides of bolts and such. THOSE cheap tools tho, are as I learned, the best that money can buy till you go into speciality tools or test equipment. Its like they had finally made enough money to retool their equipment and invested in making very good tool. In my personal shop off of the side of my garage at home was snap on tool boxes... just those boxes alone would line up or fill a whole wall in most peoples average size homes. nearly forty feet long of tool boxes that came from my big equipment repair shop after I sold that business which is still in business today there in Anchorage. I am seventy three now and this is the way for me to kind of socialize with people as I do live alone in a cabin in central alaska. I might see one person in say a two week period of seeing other people but for a traveling nurse who dresses my legs so can go on with my life and she also changes the different fluids in this machine that keeps me alive, there are times I think of pulling those tubes out and just head for a "Nap". I apologize for taking up your time should I have offended you
Always enjoy your videos. Great seeing how things are put together so down the road if something happens I'll have a better understanding what went wrong.
I made my own brake pedal hold down tool.
I fitted a rod on the end of the caulk gun hex part using a lathe to turn the ends for the threads.
I have one already I made for my clutch pedal aka a length of 2x4 that jams on the seat, I can use a shorter version to hold the brake depressed
Gravity bleed is very underrated
Yes I always gravity bleed, then follow up with pressure applied at the master
I had the same thing happen on a ‘92 Bravada once. One of the front hoses would let fluid in, but not out. The aluminum wheel got so hot it melted the center cap!
Kenny your channel is my new favourite channel.
To get the brake line loose from the hose, cut the rubber hose off as close as you can to the crimp, heat up the are where the brake line gains into the hose. The rubber will catch fire and Pop out, be ready, after you can get the brake line nut hot enough to remove from the old hose and won’t twist off the line or beak it.
I have done and taught people how to gravity bleed brakes for over thirty years.
Remove the old fluid in the master tank and refill with new fluid before bleeding.
Bleed until new fluid comes out.
I recently did that very thing, like 2 days ago. 🤔🤓🍻
I don't always do it but what came out of the calipers was filthy and what was in the master cylinder reservoir wasn't much better. 😢🤓🍻
thanks kenny, very informative as usual.
i was taught to bleed in pairs but you are like get some pressure in there release pedal and just open the bleeder wait couple of minutes. i will try that next time. thank you again for these awesome techniques.
I had the same thing. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find the problem as the car had sat in their lot and the brakes cooled down. Finally I said get it up on the lift NOW and they found it 😂
fantastic love your work you have taught me a lot for those extra little things most people tend to go, no it will be okay. Thanks Melbourne Australia.
My first break job on my first car 72 maverick I put power steering fluid in break master cylinder thinking all hydraulic fluid was the same lesson learned it swelled all the rubber seals
It happens quite often because people just don't realize . It's a hard lesson to learn for sure
Brake job.
Break is for coffee and a rest.
I like to tap on the new calipers with a hammer while doing the bleeding process. You'll get a little bit more air outve them.
Hey Kenny can that flaring tool be used on oil cooler lines on 2003 dodge ram 1500 4x4???
I use a mayonnaise jar with a tygon tube connected to the bleed valve and the other end run through the lid to the bottom of the jar with another hole in the top of the jar to vent. That way I can pump the pedal to speed up the bleeding or just let it gravity drain. With the tube at the bottom of the jar, the end is covered by fluid and air can't get back in the line. I also use a hand held mity vac to bleed the system sometimes.
arent you so cleaver🤡🤡🤡
@@williecosgrove better than being an idiot like you🤷♂️
@@user-ev4pb9xj7e Are all upset ?
While doing an ABS bleed, should you loosen the bleader screws while doing it.
When you put rhe wrench on the first caliper for leverage. You locked wrenches together not everyone knows thst old school trick can show that amd enlighten rhe younget guys
Whaddaya mean, never use a screwdriver as a prybar? My screwdriver/prybars are every it as dependable as my Crescent hammers!
WHAT?? I open the bleeder - Aha, it the hose! Well that is not obvious to me, what was the logic on that diagnosis? Also, if it is the hose why did you change the calipers? I promise I'm not being critical, I don't understand the reasoning - and I don't have any alternative ideas. I have watched about 15 of your videos and I really enjoy the content so far.
The hang up was on the caliper for sure. Spongy pedal or no brakes at all I can see the issue with the hose. Or wet line. But the caliper was the issue
Just what I thought I wondered if I’d been doing it wrong all theses year’s, it’s either brake calliper or wheel bearing if it’s hot
It can be the hose sometimes. They can internally break down either by age or abuse (hang caliper from) and can internally form a blockage or check valve and prevent the fluid from returning back up the line as it should when you lift your foot off the pedal.
I think the logic Kenny used was when he opened the bleeder the piston released. This must mean that there was pressure in the system. The only way to have pressure would be if the hose collapsed and did not allow fluid to return once foot taken off of brake. If piston was still sticking once bleed nipple opened then must be caliper or pad issue. Happy to be corrected
Who makes that flaring tool? Keep up the videos. You give so much info!
I believe he said Lisle.
@@bartsarton2212 thank you.👌
What is the part number for the flaring tool?
Whats your take on vacuum bleeding?
All that work & didn't replace the flex line from the axle to the body. 🤣Was the parking brake assembly pulled apart & cleaned? As for cleaning the axle flange, that needs as good as a cleaning as the front.
Needle scaler works great on that.
Not one single parts store had the axle flex hose available until Saturday, and I was leaving with this truck on Friday night. And No , I didn't take the parking brake assembly apart . It works perfectly. If it's used every time you park, you never have issues . A needle scaler does work excellent, and I should have mentioned it. Thanks for the input! I do appreciate it!
@@WrenchingWithKenny Understand about the no-stock brake hose deal.
China freight needle scaler makes fast work of rusty axle flanges.
Do enjoy your videos.
Can you slice open the hose long ways and show the failure mode? Also advise people to not hang their calipers by the brake hose as it can poss damage it internally.
Absolutely , i will cut one open the next time i replace one . I do stress that in other videos about hanging the calipers. I didn't on this one because I was replacing the calipers and hose . But you made some great points !! I appreciate the input !!
Actually that is new info for and I have been doing my own for 40+ years. I usually do support it on an inverted 5 gallon bucket but on some vehicles that isn't possible/easy if you're doing it in your yard.
😢🤔🤓🍻
Another great video! What’s the status of your wife’s Kia? Or did I miss a video…
Top off the mastercylinder, after all the wrench turning too. 🔧
Hey Kenny, who makes that flaring tool? Looks really handy for using as you did here.
Lisle 33260 does 3/16" and 1/4" . There are similar that only do 3/16" in Cal Van and Titan . The Lisle tools are always great quality .
Get them on Amazon
@@billsmith2212 I bought the Lisle broken spark plug removal tool for my 2004 Ford F150 and it worked great!
All 8 plugs broke and the Lisle tool removed them all. Only took me 3 days!
On my '65 Impala SS, I can change all the plugs in about 20 min.
Do you do complete fluid exchange on brake fluid?
Ya it doesn’t hurt if you are bleeding them anyway
What about the brake cleaner that you sprayed into the line? I didn't see you flush it out?? Won't that wreak havoc on seals?
Couldn’t you have just unthreaded the pass side brakeline fitting from the end of the hose and rethread it into new ? As opposed to cutting the tube and flaringbit again?
I always unthread those retaining clips from the studs and use them to retain the new rotors during reassembly
Why was it the hose? Low pressure?
Hey men how are you, I have 2015 f150 every times I brake it pulses pretty bad. Any clues what could it be?
Front rotors
How do you feel about bleeding the brakes with a vacuum gun? I've done it and it seems to work but I'd like your opinion. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
The only issue I’ve had using a vacuum method is the bleeder needs to have some thread sealer on it so you don’t suck air into your mityvac through the bleeder threads. I switched to a motive powerbleeder and haven’t went back to any other method. One person job.
The answer to all your questions is: IT'S A DODGE!
WHAT WAS THE CAUSE OF THE DRAGGING ?
Why the hell do they not have a fitting on the passenger side hardline. No wonder I drive beaters
anyone notice his wrench ????? time for a new one ... also .. why not the pepsi bottle trick ???
Could that have been the clicking sound and not the drive shaft?
Why no vacuum pump?
Wow. I will never have to get my wife out to help me bleed the brakes again. Thanks
🤣🤣🤣
12 point wrench on a 6 point fitting…nice….if you watch you can actually see it round off…
BRAKE PULSE SENSATION CAUSE OF EXPIRED BRAKE FLUID OR A BUILD-UP OF BUBLE INSIDE THE CALIPHER THIS BE NOTICE DURING LONG DRIVE.
Die Lubricant or even 100% beeswax will work to create flares as the original supplied product does. Great video Kenny!
sorry on the bottom of page 2
How much trouble is put up a ball joints and control arm bushings on a front of a 95 Dodge four-wheel drive?????
That's a Dodge Dakota pickup
Failed to mention year, make, model, and engine size. Instant dislike and thumbs down 👎🏽