As a climber with glasses myself, are there routes where you just really want to remove them? I tend to have them off for attempts so I can get my head closer to the wall but you seem to do just fine without it
Small point of course, and you may have cleaned up after the video was made, but I find it a responsible practice to carry a hand brush to clean off the rock dust after drilling. They're cheap and have holes in the handle to tie off. A buddy of mine goes so far as to carry a small Makita blower that does wonders for hole cleaning and takes care of the rock dust super easily. I think tidying up makes for a cleaner aesthetic, and personally my compulsive mind could never be settled red pointing a route until is was dust-free. Camouflaged hardware also doesn't seem to matter as much if there's white streaks of dust that are often noticeably visible even from a ways off. Seeing as how that canyon is a popular hiking zone with long-time locals and tourists alike, it makes for better user group relations to keep things clean and tidy when installing hardware that some folks may have a hard time understanding. I would say this is true in any setting, but particularly in places like the Moab and Indian Creek environs that are so popular. Clean ethics are responsible usership, and I personally think that those with a visible public presence that they promote through platforms like this and social media have a responsibility to represent best practices. This may seem like a small or even nit-pickish issue, but as someone who spent decades in the area I've got strong feelings about responsible route development. The Moab area is in need of stewards who prioritize respect for the landscape and for other user groups.
The first bolt was because the rock was very soft and breakable, and it is a bad landing if you biff it. We had 4 friends try the route on TR, and all took falls there, so very happy for that. The second bolt was because there's not a great spot for a #8 cam, since your body fills the whole chimney, and it would be a dangerous runnout.
Amazing climb! Looks really fun! Just spraying advise just ignore it if you feel like it: Blue 3 at 11:00 is definitely overcammed. You would be safer with a 2 there. Same goes for the nr 2 below.
I love placing cams super snug when there's a consequence for walking. I've still never gotten a cam stuck in 16 years of avid trad climbing. Additionally, it has been proven consistently that overcammed cams are not more likely to pull out, just more likely to get stuck, which isn't a problem when the crack opens up right above it.
@@EvanWisheropp Right you lose like 10 percent but that is nothing really. only real risk is multi pitch where you might need it later on another pitch. oh and looking silly but we are finding the hardest way up to the top of things so we are always looking pretty silly )
@@paulmitchell5349 Hahaha! No it does not. So you wouldn't call it a sport route because it only has two bolts in 100', and it's not a trad route because it has two bolts amongst the dozen or so pieces of natural pro. Now then what do you call it?
commentary kept it engaging! and that drone footage is sick
WOW! One of the best climbing videos I have seen in a while. I absolutely love the format (drone, text commentary, music). Congrats
Enjoyed very much. Trad for the win.
Hahaha I love your facial interactions with the camera! Great video and even greater looking climb! I love a good chimney
Cool route, great video. I really enjoy your take on story telling, it does a great job of capturing your process in new routing.
Cool climb, perfect drone shot, and excellent commentary. Great and simple video. Props.
Beautiful. Loved your commentary.
That was rad. I was cringing when it turned to off width and just reminded me about how brutal climbing off width is. Big props for such a cool route
Does it really count as offwidth if you can fit your butt inside?
Thanks for sharing!
Been waiting for this
man! these videos you make are amazing. I am hooked. I just want to come over there and climb with you. ( from greece)
got a sub from me bro. I am a para climber and I am loving off width stuff right now It feels like it almost evens the playing field.
Really well done.
Nice send.. man u laced that puppy :-)
ces quoi ce roche friable Woua bravo un grand respect , il monte un tiramisu ou quoi , ok je sort
That was really cool! :)
I thought "first ascent" meant establishing a new route that has never been climbed?
Awesome climb
Why is there a bolt right there.
Sweet looking line.
Climbed smooth.
Can I ask who makes that helmet?
Long Canyon area, Evan? I've climbed a few things there. Nice looking new route!
Pretty darn close! Day Canyon :)
Looks like a fantastic climb! When will it be on mtn project? I'm inspired to climb it
In trad style bolts are placed on lead.
wicked, what’s the name?
As a climber with glasses myself, are there routes where you just really want to remove them?
I tend to have them off for attempts so I can get my head closer to the wall but you seem to do just fine without it
sickkkk!!!!
bro that is siiick af, I wish I can try crack climbing and learn its intricates
Small point of course, and you may have cleaned up after the video was made, but I find it a responsible practice to carry a hand brush to clean off the rock dust after drilling. They're cheap and have holes in the handle to tie off. A buddy of mine goes so far as to carry a small Makita blower that does wonders for hole cleaning and takes care of the rock dust super easily. I think tidying up makes for a cleaner aesthetic, and personally my compulsive mind could never be settled red pointing a route until is was dust-free. Camouflaged hardware also doesn't seem to matter as much if there's white streaks of dust that are often noticeably visible even from a ways off. Seeing as how that canyon is a popular hiking zone with long-time locals and tourists alike, it makes for better user group relations to keep things clean and tidy when installing hardware that some folks may have a hard time understanding. I would say this is true in any setting, but particularly in places like the Moab and Indian Creek environs that are so popular. Clean ethics are responsible usership, and I personally think that those with a visible public presence that they promote through platforms like this and social media have a responsibility to represent best practices. This may seem like a small or even nit-pickish issue, but as someone who spent decades in the area I've got strong feelings about responsible route development. The Moab area is in need of stewards who prioritize respect for the landscape and for other user groups.
What makes you say you are not a PAs fan?
Looks cool, but I`d never climb it😅
Why did you put the bolt there?
The first bolt was because the rock was very soft and breakable, and it is a bad landing if you biff it. We had 4 friends try the route on TR, and all took falls there, so very happy for that. The second bolt was because there's not a great spot for a #8 cam, since your body fills the whole chimney, and it would be a dangerous runnout.
Amazing climb! Looks really fun!
Just spraying advise just ignore it if you feel like it: Blue 3 at 11:00 is definitely overcammed. You would be safer with a 2 there. Same goes for the nr 2 below.
I love placing cams super snug when there's a consequence for walking. I've still never gotten a cam stuck in 16 years of avid trad climbing. Additionally, it has been proven consistently that overcammed cams are not more likely to pull out, just more likely to get stuck, which isn't a problem when the crack opens up right above it.
@@EvanWisheropp Right you lose like 10 percent but that is nothing really. only real risk is multi pitch where you might need it later on another pitch. oh and looking silly but we are finding the hardest way up to the top of things so we are always looking pretty silly )
Trad means ZERO BOLTS. Otherwise, nice route.
If its 1m from ground it is not counted
I'd say not always, but that's a fair point. IMO Traditional climbing is the style, not just the protection.
@@paulmitchell5349 Hahaha! No it does not. So you wouldn't call it a sport route because it only has two bolts in 100', and it's not a trad route because it has two bolts amongst the dozen or so pieces of natural pro. Now then what do you call it?
@@mikesnyder6358 it's called mix
no it does not lol even if bolts if they are not around crux it might not even be much of a mixed route.
Funny how Americans don’t understand double rope technique. So much safer and faster.
sometimes, sometimes not, depending on what you are doing. here prob yes lol
Funny how some climbers are Caren’s