Dangerous Routes with Outrageous History

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  • Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024

Комментарии • 41

  • @ukclimbingofficial
    @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +14

    We're still traumatised from the Bransby footage...

  • @glyndavies8195
    @glyndavies8195 Год назад +3

    SO good to see my buddy Mark Edward's mega routes getting some well deserved attention. Nice one Tom !

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  11 месяцев назад

      I'm not sure this sounds like his finest, although there's a distinct chance it was a lot less loose when he made the first ascent. In its current state it sounds pretty horrendous!!

  • @paulrhodesquinn
    @paulrhodesquinn Год назад +4

    Ben is an absolute monster! Wonderful footage and a stunning send!

  • @harrypickin1845
    @harrypickin1845 Год назад +5

    Met Tom in a cc hut in cornwall once. He went out and soloed half of bosigran in the dark when he was 16 so not surprised to see him on this sort of level atm

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +1

      He’s definitely got a natural talent for it, but it’s been honed through repeated application. Helps that he loves it!!

  • @debeer77
    @debeer77 Год назад +1

    Great, these videos! Keep 'm coming

  • @lindseymckirdy1830
    @lindseymckirdy1830 Год назад +1

    John is a great guy and his achievements are incredible

  • @chondromarecords
    @chondromarecords Год назад +4

    that footswap and subtle rope flick is confirmation of Bens godlike status

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +3

      It’s utterly astounding isn’t it?! Harrowing to watch, let alone live through 😱

  • @richardcarey169
    @richardcarey169 Год назад +1

    Awesome Stanage grit, one of my first climbing experiences

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  11 месяцев назад +1

      It's Burbage South, not Stanage, but either way - they're both awesome 🙏

    • @richardcarey169
      @richardcarey169 11 месяцев назад +1

      @@ukclimbingofficial oops me wrong lol, still yorkshire grit is awesome, I am in australia and my climbing days are done, to many injuries at 70, many falls, motorcycles, army service etc etc but my spirit will always be 8 meters above my last protection on a huge wall in Bungonia or The Warrumbungles

  • @charliebakes2
    @charliebakes2 2 месяца назад +1

    Even as a non climber I would love to see more of the South West Deep Water soloing. You might need to explain the E-numbers to me, sounds like you're talking about a packet of skittles

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  2 месяца назад

      Charlie, there’s nothing I’d like to do more than a DWS film in Devon. Nick, our cameraman, slightly less so 🤣

  • @iljate5238
    @iljate5238 Год назад

    Hey, im currently looking for a second pair of shoes. My dragos just broke so now I only have my instict vs, which I love but I miss having a softer though aggressive shoe too. I'm currently trying to decide whether I'll choose the evolv phantom or the five ten hiangle pro. Any tips?

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +3

      Is there any reason why you’re not getting another pair of Drago, as that would have been my first suggestion - especially if you know they fit. My experiences of the Hiangle Pro were pretty poor, so they’re certainly not a shoe I would recommend. Here’s a link to the review: ruclips.net/video/3qDLumTTa1M/видео.html.
      I haven’t used the Phantom, so can’t comment on those. The Black Diamond Method S, which I reviewed quite recently, is well worth a look. Here’s a link to the review: ruclips.net/video/IHEbK8djO_M/видео.html
      At the end of the day, go with whatever feels best on your foot!

  • @carolinedegroot5604
    @carolinedegroot5604 Год назад +2

    Really enjoy the channel!! Would be great to see more coverage of the history of women's climbing too, and hope there will be some upcoming vids on these topics!

  • @TrackpadProductions
    @TrackpadProductions Год назад

    How can a DWS get an E10? Was the water too shallow for a safe solo when he lead it?

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад

      I think we explained this in the video, but it was given 8b for DWS and E10 for trad - it’s been done both ways

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +1

      Actually, come think of it, we didn’t go into great detail about how/why it justified E10. A a large part of it comes down to the physical difficulty and the other down to the gear (and the fact that if you fell, you’d end up in the sea, which wouldn’t be ideal - or safe)!! All in all it feels a lot more logical to DWS it, but that’s coming from the perspective of someone who’ll never, ever so it. I guess the appeal of doing it as a trad route is that you don’t get wet…unless you fall…

    • @TrackpadProductions
      @TrackpadProductions Год назад +1

      @@ukclimbingofficial I just always figured that the risk of decking is, like, 75% of the severity grade. But if a ground fall just results in getting wet, I don't understand how it's dangerous enough to get an E10? I don't do trad, just sport and DWS, so I'm a little confused about how it works...

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +3

      If it’s any consolation: it’s confusing to people who do a lot of trad too. The upper end of the British grading system isn’t entirely logical!!

  • @lizarddronedude3617
    @lizarddronedude3617 Год назад

    It was encouragement from the dog that did it for Ben

  • @alexanderbonnet3494
    @alexanderbonnet3494 Год назад

    I think it depends on the English Diners That they do Not prefer a Long Life

  • @2rfg949
    @2rfg949 Год назад

    holy fricksticks

  • @thomasbahr2806
    @thomasbahr2806 Год назад +5

    Not sure if this is stupidity of the English (the garding system honoring risk?), but drill a few holes and glue a stainless or titanium bolt in there and its fantastic and still difficult climbing for the next 100 years. I don't think that the risk of getting killed makes such climbs more attractive. In Central Europe these would have been glue bolted probably 20 years ago already.

    • @pauljepson1249
      @pauljepson1249 Год назад +10

      Different people climb for different reasons. If you want bolted sport climbing, there is plenty. What you are suggesting would ruin the routes for those who wanted a traditional adventure, putting themselves to the challenge that the rock offers, rather than bringing the rock down to their level. Slightly entitled to think that what you want is more important than what others want.

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +6

      I think you’ve fundamentally misunderstood the grading system if you think it honours risk, because that’s not what it does at all - it ultimately seems to provide a balance between how safe/unsafe a route is vs how sustained and/or cruxy it is. I can’t think of a single other system that succeeds in doing that. The American system tries with R and X, but it doesn’t provide anywhere near as much insight, although this does require an understanding of the system to ascertain.
      As for the rest, Paul - who’s posted above - has hit the nail on the head. If everything was the same, climbing would be boring. In the UK we’ve got heaps of classic trad, some safe, some bold, then we’ve got a load of classic sport too. Better we have both than homogenise everything into one.

    • @thomasbahr2806
      @thomasbahr2806 Год назад

      @@ukclimbingofficial What is the difference between an unsafe route being graded higher and honouring risk? I can see that for some people it is attractive to climb stuff which is dangerous, makes you also popular on RUclips. I will definitely not be able to climb up that rock independent of Safety being installed or not. But I personally don't like the glorification of climbs with the serious risk of being killed in a grading system. That just leads to more unnecessary deaths or very serious injuries.

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +5

      I don't think what you're describing is particularly new, as there's been bold climbs for over a century. In terms of unnecessary deaths or very serious injuries, a quick glance at what routes people get rescued off will reveal where the issues lie, and it is - perhaps ironically - not the most bold or dangerous routes.

    • @middle-agedclimber
      @middle-agedclimber Год назад

      One of the dumbest climbing related comments I've ever read. Congratulations.

  • @reubenmace6644
    @reubenmace6644 Год назад +1

    Great content rob, trads back!

    • @ukclimbingofficial
      @ukclimbingofficial  Год назад +1

      In/amongst the recent run of bad weather it’s come back against the odds hasn’t it?!