Steve McClure: GreatNess Wall (E10 7a)
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2019
- A short film of Steve McClure on GreatNess Wall (E10 7a) filmed by Keith Sharples. He was going to take pictures but thought a fall from the last move would look far better...
Speaking to UKC, Steve described the route as 'a total face climb, plum vertical, 18m high, with a horizontal break crossing the whole cliff at about 12m. This break divides the route into two completely different halves, fortunately with an excellent (preplaced) thread. Poor footholds with fast hand moves between the bad edges, hard foot swaps, where if your feet go you are absolutely certainly out of there! There is nowhere to stop or think or compose yourself as you gain distance from the lonely thread below...'
Unbelievable!! The monster called Steve McClure! 👌👌
that last move was a trouser filler for me even sat at home. Hats off to you Steve. Inspiring.
I was like, "Whoooaaa!"
A trouser filler?! Lol
I totally agree
wow...you brits are insane! that last move to the jug...well done steve! sick vid!
Tied his laces so you know it hardcore 😮
Yeah, but he didn’t
So basically this guy never ties his laces?
That ending had me smiling so much :) I just love feeling the joy of climbing! :)
Whoaaaoouuw! Beautiful and terrifying. Great climber, climb and filming!
Such amazing send... Congratulations from Colombia!!
Respect respect, amazing performance !
Saw him climb many years ago at Smith Rocks in Oregon (USA). He was making some hard stuff look pretty easy, and some BOLD routes look, well, not so bold. Seemed like a pleasant fellow as well.
He seems like the nicest lunatic you are likely to ever meet.
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 That is a brilliant description!
That would of been a huge fall. Well done.
Great video!
Steve is the man!
I enjoyed that. Thanks
Fucking hell man... Absolutely crazy! Props for pulling that off! Looks insanely difficult.
Amazing stuff
Worldclass 🧗🏻♂️ Steve! 💪👍🤜
Looks exactly like Stiefelhuette, Odenwald, Germany. Terrific
just like my old mentor used to tell me, all you need to climb any route in the world is two pieces of gear and two belayers
looks brutal!
Hi guys, great video. I can’t help but mention though, the music was pretty jarring and off putting. I really like the sound of climbing on its own. Anyway, great work. Keep it coming.
This Wall must’ve been quarried in some yesteryears, judging by those horizontal breaks, 90* corners & arêtes. Cool little video
EDIT: Steve doesn’t even chalk through that top section…, just solid
Yeah an old sandstone quarry about 30 miles from me. There are a few similar quarries in the area all more or less the same layout, smooth vertical walls and sharp corners.
@@fredscratchet1355 ..... I’ve always loved climbing aretes. It’s my favorite face climbing, regardless of the rock!
Respect. That would have been a very long fall.
Totally 😬
I was keeping my breath, sitting in my sofa!! That last move was really scary!!
You know it's good climbing when you feel kinda sick the whole time. Scary stuff!
Great climbing
I wonder if it was close
Wow!
I've been mountain biking here for years and only just discovered people climb there
My arms and legs got 2" longer just watching 😳. Good effort
Why the blip in the edit at the crux? Great climbing though.
I wish more pros would wear helmets on video. It's cool to wear helmets kids, look at Steve!
Most people doing traditional climbing wear helmets. The issue, in my opinion, is that most people doing sport climbing don't (even Steve).
@@Lycian17 Most hard sport is overhanging, so nothing to hit when you fall, even if you invert.
If i was faced with a potential 15 meter fall, i'd wear a helmet too.
@@geno7462 And diapers too!
You really don't need a helmet for sport. Everyone who climbs trad will typically wear one.
The third piece of pro was already in the wall, I'm a bit confused as to what the rules are with British trad as to when you can or can't already have Pro in the wall, can anyone enlighten me
It's possible that piece is a fixed thread/nut.
That was fixed anchors to the first section of route. He continued the line
Shit that looked hard!
Last move OMG
wow
what was the rope swapping thing? looked like he swapped to another rope but i dont know how he could possibly have untied anything!
There was a cut in the edit, he may just have untied the rope with one hand
Ok well bizarrely I just met him so I asked him. He had the second rope just attached to a carabiner so he just dropped it at that point. Very surreal that the day after wondering about that I could just ask him!
@@leonakadir3833 Nice, that was my first guess
Guessing so the rope drag wasnt awful trying to make those last moves.
is that sandstone?
I got stomach ache by just watching it
Bloody well done you old codger. ;)
Yikes, Steve came so close to pitching! I assume having a thread in situ is considered OK for FFA in UK? Also, why all the rope at the top around natural anchors? Seems like a good spot for bolted anchor.
Bolted anchors are frowned upon at these kind of venues!
Bolts!!!!
On something as desperate as that preplacing hard to place essential protection is 'OK' as long you are honest about it, as they are here. Obviously a clean, ground up, placing gear as you go ascent would be considered the best style. Our bolting ethic is very strict, in bolt free trad areas/crags it includes not using bolts for top anchors or at belay stances on multi-pitch.
@@davidboylan6316 No problem with pre-placed fiddly threads, but he was stretching the bounds of "bomber" there. Dyneema is very strong for its diameter but there's a whole lot of abrasion unknowns and it's no sure thing that it'll stick with a lob from that jug. Earned his 10 E points there I'd say....
it looks like you can hit the ground if you fail the the last move?
And that's why it's E10 lol
7a can be nicely protected like E4 or by two cams E10! - hats off.
Tom J Designs I think your getting sport and British tech grades mixed up. British tech 7a is equivalent to 8a+ sport grade. I.e there is no such thing as a grade of E4 7a even if we’ll protected.
@@gibbolsc there's an E4 7a, Five Years On at Highcliffe Nab
If he already has some protection pre placed on the route why does he place as hes going and not just pre place all of it?
That was fixed anchors to the first section of route. He continued the line
@@ryanmontour1398 ah thanks
If you have not already seen it, this is what happens when you don't make that last hard move:
ruclips.net/video/me6MvieBAF0/видео.html
Holy shit. He had an extra bit of gear in, didn't do much though!
Not really. The guy in the video had extra (bad) piece of gear. That added more than 3m to the fall. In reallity it is a very safe 6m+ fall, on a good anchor and absolute vertical, smooth terrain with no real danger.
With the buzz of finishing the route he didn’t screw up the gate on the crab to lower off. Amazing climbing
Oh well, he is clearly on his four and they made the trees in cgi...
I've been mountain biking here for years and only just discovered people climb there
Wait a second... preplaced gear?? what is this??
It’s there waiting for you to place the gear on lead, Miguel!
Omg
Why are two people belaying?
That's what happens when you make it big in climbing. ;-)
Some tricky rope work to make it that once he was at the crux there would be the least rope in the system, so he would take the smallest possible fall. The left side belayer ends up belaying him from straight underneath without the rope roaming side to side. Less rope stretch and less likely to have slack build up between pieces of gear.
Why is he climbing with two ropes?
dsorvita Basically the second piece of pro is so far out to the right that by the top there would have been a zigzag meaning a lot of rope drag. Using twin ropes is very common on routes that move from side to side a lot. Usually in this scenario though you’d have only 1 belayer controlling both ropes from the same device and the climber would keep both ropes on for the entire route but once Steve clipped the third piece of pro that was already on the wall, the second rope was unnecessary hence why he dropped it. I couldn’t see but I’m guessing he had it clipped on with a crab rather than actually tied to himself.
Nick Blakehill , thank you Nick, it’s clear to me now.
wtf is that music?
Inexpensive?
Fuck sakes 💪
You Need To mute the hole Video to enjoy it 😵
You have balls
Clipping fixed gear ?
yes what was that?
Looks like tread through the rock
That was fixed anchors to the first section of route. He continued the line
Them Brits, crazy climbers.
E10 = 9a no? not 7a
www.rockfax.com/publications/grades/
@@kristofferschmarr So in American, 5.13- with serious fall potential.
run out or just dangerous
☹no music please
Can anybody explain me the grade? I don't get it, E10 7a, it looks much harder than a 7a. I saw that E10 is more like 9a...
E10 is meant to be the severity of the climb. So how dodge the gear might be ot how little of it there might be. 7a is the technical grade, that is to say that the hardest moves on the route are around 7a
British trad routes have a technical grade that is very different in difficulty to French sport grading... while the two grading systems have the same format, they should not be considered the same difficulty for the same number by any means. rockfax.com/climbing-guides/grades/
I dont know much about trad climbing, can someone tell me why does he have two belayers?
To reduce rope drag, if the pieces of protection are too far apart sideways from each other the friction of the rope through them makes it harder to pull the rope up with you as you're climbing
@@jamesthompson9313 thank you!
two ropes and one belay device, could jam up. Plus could lift the lower piece out, although not likely. Two eyes and four hands are better than one. Especially if one guy is lighting a joint to stay calm.
Just bolt the route 🙃 I don’t get English trad climbing if the idea is to work the route top rope until you can climb it with 3 protection in 25 metters whose one pre establish.
In the case of the crag at hand, bolting it would almost inevitably lead to the crag’s (and the route’s) demise, as the soft of the rock wouldn’t be able to handle the extra traffic. There’s also merit to the differences of headpointing vs. redpointing. They’re similar, but also very, very different styles. If everything was the same it’d be boring 🙂
Get rid of that music!!!
Grey hair and big balls.
Great vid, terrible music.
Waaay to much slack. This is lifethreateningly dangerous. Again proof that age doesn´t protect from foolishness.
You obviously have no idea of the talent this man possesses
@@Totalavulsion you fucking dumb troll. I was obviously talking about the belayer.
Its shocking how many climbing videos show people who obviously have never been through a formal belay training.
Rücklicht I’m sure Steve trusts who’s belaying him you absolute melt
@@Totalavulsion then he is an absoulte negligent idiot.
Why so many climbers willing to risk their lives? Just use a top rope and live to climb another day
It’s called style
You must not climb, top roping is rarely enjoyable like lead climbing. Can't climb big roofs or overhangs on top rope either.
@@mystyboarder910 I've been climbing for 20 years. Free climbing except for bouldering or climbing well within you limits is just foolhardy. You only mess with gravity once!! Climb safe stay safe!