Ok ok, look it was edited 10 years ago, times were different, we didn't know as much as we know now 😁. Also you are watching this sequence out of context of the whole film. A film which was a finalist at the Banff Mountain film festival.... oh now I'm sounding defensive🤣. I mean I do appreciate your feedback and all, but come on, give me a break. I know I'll give everyone who's watched it on RUclips their money back, will that make it better 😁... #JokeRant.
Ps And another thing whilst I'm having a rant, this route has never been repeated in 10 years. It was dramatic when James climbed this, particularly because he had a strict no pads ethic at the time. Sure Kevin repeated the first half of the route, with pads, but he couldn't do the top move. Once someone repeats the route, without pads, i.e. in the style of the 1st ascent without any drama, then May be I'll admit that I overcooked it on the edit #stillAJokeRant
Sorry Hot Aches I didn't mean to belittle your efforts and your explanation is accepted. As I said in my comment it was a bold lead, I wouldn't have got 2 feet off the ground on that. So I'm not trying to take anything away from the climb or the filming and now you explain about the Banff film festival I can see it in a bigger context. Please don't ban me.😉
@@fredscratchet1355 Hey David, no need to apologise, in fact maybe I should. Your observations are valid, I think was being a little defensive. Thanks for watching and commenting. Diff
For some perspective, Kevin Jorgeson claims the second ascent of this route, the guy who just co-sent the Dawn Wall, and he never even did the second crux of this route. He said it was too hard, so he cheated out right. I'd say looks are deceiving to the keyboard warriors. Insane FA James!
@@kcc8986 I watched that video, that is the video Kevin spoke of when saying he cheated out right. It literally says in the description that Kevin did the second ascent. I did my research. Research how to spell "ascent"
Glad I found this, nice content w/ appropriate music. But God fucked up and this groove is too short; it should be chipped and filled till it reaches the top.
Well.... Climbing above your gear with object impact and multiple sequences with ground fall potential......and it's all climbing in the 5.12+-5.14+ range I think that a little bit of dramatics won't hurt.
How do all tradclimbers belay with a tube in such a manner that they couldn't hold a single fall..having the brake hand above the device is equal to clipping the ropes into a locker and calling it a belay..but aeesome climb
Yea I didnt mean to make it sound like I could possibly dream of climbing at this level. I just meant that looking at the route as a bystander, it looks much easier than it truly is.
Yea I know what you mean, it's not like looking a line of tiny crimps, metres apart on a steep wall, and thinking I could never climb that. You can see the moves , foot up, grab the edge of he groove and pop for the break. I guess you have to remember that only a few climbers have ever managed to do that move.
5tr4nGe it’s not had a full repeat, and now stands at a very hefty E9 7b. The technical grade alone should give you an idea of how good a grit climber James is given that he makes it look so easy
Watching these videos AFTER watching reelrock (redemption and wide boyz) and knowing the full story behind half the playlist (2 downgrades and pre-placed gear) is one way to sell the full video I guess for those who don't know the story. That said at least on Walk of Life you don't put e12 in the title, seeing e10 in this videos title is very misleading/dishonest.
The grove is still unrepeated. If you want to do the second ascent and suggest a grade the go ahead, it's still there at cratcliffe waiting. The only person to have climbed it says its E10 7a
i think James has such an elegant style and some of the lines he has danced up are stunning
What an elegant style he has. Awesome climbing!
A pleasure to watch such a talented climber 😀
Idk what everyone’s on about, I loved the editing. What he climbed was fucking scary and the music made my nerves tighten. Dudes got some grit
Anasazi. Still one of the best left-foot shoes ever made.
i got mines after many years of miura n couldnt b happier
Gripping gritstone, and a committed crux
Are you supposed to belay like that 2:36?
This is movie quality! Actually, this IS a movie. Thanks!
the move at 2:30 is fucking stylezzzz. Fuck yes
Thanks ever so much! So English haha!
Why the weird music editing? If you close your eyes it sounds like you're listening to the soundtrack from Lord of the Rings
why the huge run-out at the end?
why not:-) The top is easy.
Looks pretty nontrivial to me, but then again I don't climb 8b.
+Alex Fox yea I know what you mean, when I say easy I mean easy compared to the crux at the bottom.
is he wearing 2 different shoes? 5:10 anasazi and something?
both anasazi, just one lace and one velcro
The Velcro shoe I guess is for the left smear at the first crux.
Why two ropes? Just curious.
djsdownhill2010 reduces rope drag if your gear is wide apart instead of vertically aligned for which u would normally use just a single rope
Also so he can have the added cushion necessary to keep the impact forces down on the entire protection system.
Bold lead, but I have to agree the video editing was a bit ott.
Ok ok, look it was edited 10 years ago, times were different, we didn't know as much as we know now 😁. Also you are watching this sequence out of context of the whole film. A film which was a finalist at the Banff Mountain film festival.... oh now I'm sounding defensive🤣. I mean I do appreciate your feedback and all, but come on, give me a break. I know I'll give everyone who's watched it on RUclips their money back, will that make it better 😁... #JokeRant.
Ps And another thing whilst I'm having a rant, this route has never been repeated in 10 years. It was dramatic when James climbed this, particularly because he had a strict no pads ethic at the time. Sure Kevin repeated the first half of the route, with pads, but he couldn't do the top move. Once someone repeats the route, without pads, i.e. in the style of the 1st ascent without any drama, then May be I'll admit that I overcooked it on the edit #stillAJokeRant
Sorry Hot Aches I didn't mean to belittle your efforts and your explanation is accepted. As I said in my comment it was a bold lead, I wouldn't have got 2 feet off the ground on that. So I'm not trying to take anything away from the climb or the filming and now you explain about the Banff film festival I can see it in a bigger context. Please don't ban me.😉
@@fredscratchet1355 Hey David, no need to apologise, in fact maybe I should. Your observations are valid, I think was being a little defensive. Thanks for watching and commenting. Diff
Personnaly, and not from a strictly technical point of view, i loved the ambiance. It made me remember that winter is definitely my favorite season !
How is that E10?
That is the grade James gave it. The full route is still unrepeated, so the grade stands. What grade do you think it should be?
For some perspective, Kevin Jorgeson claims the second ascent of this route, the guy who just co-sent the Dawn Wall, and he never even did the second crux of this route. He said it was too hard, so he cheated out right. I'd say looks are deceiving to the keyboard warriors. Insane FA James!
Why don’t you tie in and find out?
@@kcc8986 I watched that video, that is the video Kevin spoke of when saying he cheated out right. It literally says in the description that Kevin did the second ascent. I did my research. Research how to spell "ascent"
@@kcc8986 so he didn't do it?
Was that James Mum?
Glad I found this, nice content w/ appropriate music. But God fucked up and this groove is too short; it should be chipped and filled till it reaches the top.
Sweet couple
Nice climb, ridiculous over dramatic editing...
Well.... Climbing above your gear with object impact and multiple sequences with ground fall potential......and it's all climbing in the 5.12+-5.14+ range I think that a little bit of dramatics won't hurt.
Casey Bald You forgot to add, if you are a drama queen.
Might as well solo the thing
How do all tradclimbers belay with a tube in such a manner that they couldn't hold a single fall..having the brake hand above the device is equal to clipping the ropes into a locker and calling it a belay..but aeesome climb
This style of belaying comes from munter hitch belays, where it is perfectly appropriate. I think it's mostly a hold-over from that era
why would you show mom's face more than the actual climbing... :|
I mean. It was a hard rout but those holds looked easy enough. A few difficult moves though. I wouldn't rate this more than a 5.13 b.
The full route has never been repeated, so the grade stands.
Yea I didnt mean to make it sound like I could possibly dream of climbing at this level. I just meant that looking at the route as a bystander, it looks much easier than it truly is.
Yea I know what you mean, it's not like looking a line of tiny crimps, metres apart on a steep wall, and thinking I could never climb that. You can see the moves , foot up, grab the edge of he groove and pop for the break. I guess you have to remember that only a few climbers have ever managed to do that move.
Hasn't it been repeated, and downgraded by a lot now?
5tr4nGe it’s not had a full repeat, and now stands at a very hefty E9 7b. The technical grade alone should give you an idea of how good a grit climber James is given that he makes it look so easy
Watching these videos AFTER watching reelrock (redemption and wide boyz) and knowing the full story behind half the playlist (2 downgrades and pre-placed gear) is one way to sell the full video I guess for those who don't know the story. That said at least on Walk of Life you don't put e12 in the title, seeing e10 in this videos title is very misleading/dishonest.
darksendkilla Nobody cares nigga
@@kcc8986 Kevin didn’t do the same route… Skipped the crux
zzz...
The grove is still unrepeated. If you want to do the second ascent and suggest a grade the go ahead, it's still there at cratcliffe waiting. The only person to have climbed it says its E10 7a