"Offwidth's Greatest Nightmare" (5.12a) - Epic New Spooky Offwidth w/ Trad Princess
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- I found this spectacular, and spectacularly spooky splitter and knew we had an ephemeral classic on our hands. Watch as Evan Wisheropp makes a first ascent and Mary Eden follows it up quickly with the second ascent.
After the crux second pitch, you can continue for two more pitches, culminating in a 20' 5.12 roof offwidth pitch landing you on the rim. The second pitch flake "feels" solid, but who knows how long it will last... geologic time is now!
The rack to do this is about the same dollar value as a 2021 Sprinter van.
I've only ever held a snake in my hands a few times, but it feels like they're just all muscle, nothing else, muscle from one side to the other. Mary reminds me of a snake.
🤔🧐🫣🤭😅😂
Absolutely mental route there, well done !
This is like the Ironie time in the 70th. No More !!!
That was a whole new level of claustrophobia
Is it still claustrophobia if you’re simultaneously worried about getting crushed or also having half the crack fall off? Ha!
@@EvanWisheropp clautrafallbia
I found this by clicking on a 'sport climbing' button. Dozens of sport climbers probably need smelling salts after watching it.
😂 yeah just a few QuickDraws needed
Wide boys need to come climb this. Would love to see them struggle on this massive flake.
Wot a fecking nightmare. 😂 You must have loved it.
Dude this was so crazy… can’t believe that’s considered 5.12a. You went to war 🙌 Sick video too!! Can’t wait to see more
Sick line! Seems a bit precarious....how long until that whole thing collapses I wonder
Tomorrow perhaps?
From a geological time perspective, it's already gone.
As someone who hates ow and has only done a handful of .10/10+ ow, I salute you crushers. I can only imagine the heinous nonsense I’d be trying to get 6 feet up these cracks.
10+ OW is honestly real deal. I think that’s the peak of pure blue collar grovel.
@@EvanWisheropp my quads are cramping again just thinking about it
I'd be terrified of sliding down. It seems uncomfortable and claustrophobic.
Insane! Looks like an absolute battle.
Do it at the beginning of your trip 😅
That´s caving!
Rad. That rack you can safely free so many lines!
oh my gosh! i wish i could go there every now and then! looks sooo nice and there are also just no offwidths in germany...
1:24 just sucked all the air out of my lungs!
- rocks!
- roxanne!
So incredibly EPIC!
Is that first piece on pitch 2 a link cam? I tried to zoom but it was blurry. Oh a few seconds later we see it again. Looks like a link cam
Keen eye! Yes, indeed! The crack goes from .3 up to 10", so bumping the link cam was pretty awesome.
Cool climb! 😁
9:52 most unique rest of all time. this shits wild!
2:50 and that's why we start cleaning from top down. 😅 Although here it would be impossible, or can you reach the top some other way?
I had really wanted to go in from the top, I did it once on a nearby route, but they closed the closest road. We ended up going ground-up on a line to the left, then rapped down this line. I think another hour of cleaning and it should sparkle ✨
@@EvanWisheropp No joke, have you considered using a battery powered leaf blower? A gang of us up here in Ontario use em for the finishing touches on our routes. seems like it'd do wonders for sand...
@@dereksmalls7808 I actually have two different sizes of them, but had so much stuff I decided not to bring one. That was stupid of me. {facepalm}
Trying to figure out what’s going on at 2:14
Is he belaying with his left hand and hauling something small with his right hand? I can’t quite figure it out
Yep, You're exactly right. The right hand is hauling up a mini-haul bag with snacks, water, and jackets.
Umm...well...that looked 'interesting' ;)
Very technical.
Caving as a climbing technique.
I'd trust Trad Princess with my life, and I don't say that lightly
That makes two of us (at least)
how long is that second pitch ? o_0 ^^
I think we measured 150’
@@EvanWisheropp sweet lord ^^
You spend your life savings on those cams?
Lol.
Yes. Literally. 😅
Spooky? maybe horrific. The most gut wrenching scary gravel with pounds and pounds of giant cams. This is no sane person's idea of a good time. But hey, it looks good on you guys. Cheers
Mary is called Trad Princess, I think she's the Queen of Chicken Wings on this climb!
Only .12a? 😅
It’s so hard to grade offwidths. I feel like offwidth grades hardly mean anything. A 12a sport climb is definitely so much less draining.
I wanna buy Friends for 2000 bucks..
"trad princess" 🤮🤮🤮 Gilead sons of Jacob vibes