Not a criticism of Noah, because he makes his own decisions, but a suggestion for beginners watching this, because Noah skipped it entirely, is to learn how to make the first gear placement 'multi-directional'. There are too many RUclips and Insta shorts of trad climbers hitting the ground because they fell above the first piece/s which didn't hold. Or even falling on more pieces higher up, the force from the belayer to the first piece will still compromise a poor placement
I’m not sure you mean multidirectional. That term is usually reserved for distribution a multi piece anchor in that the anchor should be strong in multiple directions of pull. However for cams and all other pro, they are unidirectional; but you have to worry about direction of pull. Direction of pull is critical to master, especially on the first piece
@@MikeNovemberOscarPapa you may be able to have one piece that will be ok in either direction of pull or two pieces combined to mitigate the two different directions of pull so that not only the leader fall is managed but also the force from belayer end of rope. Your explanation seems to be saying the direction of pull is important whether it is an anchor or a first piece of gear, which I would agree with (at least if the anchor is being used for multipitch) but here I am talking about the first piece/s of gear. If you want to be picky the best term would be bi-directional, which is technically multidirectional :-)
Yes this is great advice. The first two cams that I place are quite multidirectional in that the stem is relatively flexible. Also my belayer is pretty much directly beneath those pieces so there is not a lot of sideways pull on them.
Agreed and in reality he should have equalized those first two. It would have taken another 2 seconds. Plus you don't really have a backup knot on your figure eight. Always tie a double fisherman's, singles will come undone. No I've never seen a figure eight come undone but safety first. 😂.
All of your videos make me excited to go out and top rope solo There arent too many great crags near me, but im full of stoke and can make do with what i got
The best way to learn is to find a partner and follow them, follow them, follow them. Do not go out and try it but find a partner you can follow and clean gear. Study their gear placement..👍
Nice! Much appreciated. Clear that you are totally confident on that climb. I would have been tempted to "trap" a small wire (nut) in those finger locks and then place the small cam over the top as a pair, that stops the nut popping out as you go past (another reason for a longer extender) but also in that rock the shallow cams are a little worrying, so nice to have a wire as well. But clearly you are the expert.
I just skimmed through, did you place a single nut? The video seems a bit beginning focused so it would seem good to include, placing nuts is an important skill to learn. They are often more bomber than cams when the gear is thin and after taking beginners trad climbing I can say I have seen them placing way worse cams than nuts. A terrible nut placement falls out often, a terrible cam placement will normally stay in place but not catch a fall so they climb on with a false feeling of safety
That's a really good point at the end of your comment, it can be hilariously off-putting to see a loose nut float out of it's placement the moment there is any rope tension, but easy to get complacent about the cams that you can't see their lobes moving in a flare or cavernous placement
@@simonwilliams9850 I recently took someone on his first trad experience and (after some other practice) I lead a route, he seconded and looked at my gear and cleaned it, then he lead. One cam he knew was bad and it was terrible, wouldn’t hold body weight, another one he thought was good would not have held a whip, two nuts he was nervous of were actually decent and I think would hold, one nut was terrible and fell out before he clipped it so we had to hunt in a bush. The immediate feedback, although imperfect, is useful
Nice little simple guide, doesn't flood you with info, but there's not much missed either. I'm sure someone new would probably like to have seen you clean the route as well, but still great. Would have loved a video like this when I first got into climbing.
When do you decide to place an extender on a piece of gear? I get using longer/alpine draws to prevent rope drag when the route is less linear, but I couldn't follow your logic for every extender you used on this route. Also, is there anything wrong with just clipping the rope into a wiregate that's directly on your gear, as long as it isn't causing drag/poor rope positioning?
Do you have any advice for gaining confidence in the gear you place? I just started trad climbing recently but haven't really taken any significant falls on my gear yet. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Why so few nuts on your rack? That seems to be common in the US. On Victorian sandstone (especially at Arapiles/ Djurite) we preferentially place nuts. I get the impression British gritstone climbers do the same.
You belay from above and the second climber bring the cams up. Or there is bolts on top of the route so you just get lowered back down and take out the pro
A couple options here. After setting the top rope his belaymen can lower him to the ground; he collects all pieces used to protect his climb on the way down. Now that the top rope is installed climbers can be belayed without trad gear. Option 2: if this were a multi-pitch the 2nd climber would recover all pieces of protection on his ascent while being belayed from the top👍.
i don't think this kind of climbing will fly in my part of the world, the smallest friend here cost a month worth of food, so, bolts is much more favourable in my country
Nice one Noah. Cragging like this is so much like what we do in the British trad scene, glad to see U.S. trad isn't just endless splitter cracks 😄
Hahah great. We love both
Not a criticism of Noah, because he makes his own decisions, but a suggestion for beginners watching this, because Noah skipped it entirely, is to learn how to make the first gear placement 'multi-directional'. There are too many RUclips and Insta shorts of trad climbers hitting the ground because they fell above the first piece/s which didn't hold. Or even falling on more pieces higher up, the force from the belayer to the first piece will still compromise a poor placement
I’m not sure you mean multidirectional. That term is usually reserved for distribution a multi piece anchor in that the anchor should be strong in multiple directions of pull. However for cams and all other pro, they are unidirectional; but you have to worry about direction of pull. Direction of pull is critical to master, especially on the first piece
@@MikeNovemberOscarPapa you may be able to have one piece that will be ok in either direction of pull or two pieces combined to mitigate the two different directions of pull so that not only the leader fall is managed but also the force from belayer end of rope. Your explanation seems to be saying the direction of pull is important whether it is an anchor or a first piece of gear, which I would agree with (at least if the anchor is being used for multipitch) but here I am talking about the first piece/s of gear. If you want to be picky the best term would be bi-directional, which is technically multidirectional :-)
Yes this is great advice. The first two cams that I place are quite multidirectional in that the stem is relatively flexible. Also my belayer is pretty much directly beneath those pieces so there is not a lot of sideways pull on them.
Agreed and in reality he should have equalized those first two. It would have taken another 2 seconds. Plus you don't really have a backup knot on your figure eight. Always tie a double fisherman's, singles will come undone. No I've never seen a figure eight come undone but safety first. 😂.
@@grega9220 there's a good HowNotTo video on figure eights and the different back-ups, worth watching
All of your videos make me excited to go out and top rope solo
There arent too many great crags near me, but im full of stoke and can make do with what i got
This video was super helpful, I’m excited to try climbing trad sometime, thanks Noah!
Glad you found it helpful!
The best way to learn is to find a partner and follow them, follow them, follow them. Do not go out and try it but find a partner you can follow and clean gear. Study their gear placement..👍
Nice! Much appreciated. Clear that you are totally confident on that climb. I would have been tempted to "trap" a small wire (nut) in those finger locks and then place the small cam over the top as a pair, that stops the nut popping out as you go past (another reason for a longer extender) but also in that rock the shallow cams are a little worrying, so nice to have a wire as well. But clearly you are the expert.
Trad draws would make your life easier. Great climbing, great placements.
Love your videos man and positive energy
Thanks!
8:12 where is bro with the camera even standing??
I just skimmed through, did you place a single nut? The video seems a bit beginning focused so it would seem good to include, placing nuts is an important skill to learn. They are often more bomber than cams when the gear is thin and after taking beginners trad climbing I can say I have seen them placing way worse cams than nuts. A terrible nut placement falls out often, a terrible cam placement will normally stay in place but not catch a fall so they climb on with a false feeling of safety
That's a really good point at the end of your comment, it can be hilariously off-putting to see a loose nut float out of it's placement the moment there is any rope tension, but easy to get complacent about the cams that you can't see their lobes moving in a flare or cavernous placement
@@simonwilliams9850 I recently took someone on his first trad experience and (after some other practice) I lead a route, he seconded and looked at my gear and cleaned it, then he lead. One cam he knew was bad and it was terrible, wouldn’t hold body weight, another one he thought was good would not have held a whip, two nuts he was nervous of were actually decent and I think would hold, one nut was terrible and fell out before he clipped it so we had to hunt in a bush. The immediate feedback, although imperfect, is useful
Great point! I love nuts but this route just had better cam placements.
Nice little simple guide, doesn't flood you with info, but there's not much missed either. I'm sure someone new would probably like to have seen you clean the route as well, but still great. Would have loved a video like this when I first got into climbing.
Thanks for watching!
"Not much missed" he didn't place a single nut lmao
Not much missed? Bro didn't place a single piece of passive pro.
THANK YOU NOAH!
Of course!
When do you decide to place an extender on a piece of gear? I get using longer/alpine draws to prevent rope drag when the route is less linear, but I couldn't follow your logic for every extender you used on this route. Also, is there anything wrong with just clipping the rope into a wiregate that's directly on your gear, as long as it isn't causing drag/poor rope positioning?
Nice
Do you have any advice for gaining confidence in the gear you place? I just started trad climbing recently but haven't really taken any significant falls on my gear yet. Thanks in advance for any advice!
Place gear in cracks off the ground and bounce test a foot off the ground.
How do you like the metolius cams?
Hey dude! Do you ever do any single pitch stuff down at the new?
Not yet! But I can't wait to come try!
Follow up video: trad whippers?
Haha yikes, maybe
pink tri cam gang
Which crag is this? You mentioned Vermont, have you been to black mountain?
0:08
Would you prefer nuts or cams
Sasquatch sighting at 1:30.
Lol, aka. my older brother
@@NoahKane Lol. Enjoying your videos!
Why so few nuts on your rack? That seems to be common in the US. On Victorian sandstone (especially at Arapiles/ Djurite) we preferentially place nuts. I get the impression British gritstone climbers do the same.
What happen after you reach the top? How you get the cams back?
You belay from above and the second climber bring the cams up. Or there is bolts on top of the route so you just get lowered back down and take out the pro
A couple options here. After setting the top rope his belaymen can lower him to the ground; he collects all pieces used to protect his climb on the way down. Now that the top rope is installed climbers can be belayed without trad gear. Option 2: if this were a multi-pitch the 2nd climber would recover all pieces of protection on his ascent while being belayed from the top👍.
Someone said he's the guy that installs the rock climbing rocks for others??
Yes YES!! He is!!!!😮❤❤❤
i don't think this kind of climbing will fly in my part of the world, the smallest friend here cost a month worth of food, so, bolts is much more favourable in my country
Check James Bond climbing scene " for your eyes only " movie scene.
Love that scene
sport better