This is true! However you do have to strengthen your whole body (even muscles that are not directly related) as it helps with injury prevention and overall strength!!!
I figured out that just climbing harder grades is really helpful. I peaked at 6a some year ago, then i would simply try and try and try to climb 6b until i succeeded, and when this got too easy i started climbing 6c/7a
I only climb twice a week and don’t train for climbing outside of that. I climb pretty consistently at a 6b+ but am pretty much plateaued there. I could probably increase a smidge if I climbed more often, but I think to make real improvements I’d need to train for climbing outside of my time actually climbing.
@@adribier I have gotten a handful of 7c boulders from mainly only climbing. I have done some training other than climbing but i feel like you can get very far without a dedicated training program
I'm strong but not mobile. All these weighted pull-ups and hangboarding sessions have done nothing to improve my bouldering. I've started working on my hip mobility recently and have already noticed a difference. A lot of videos online tell you to work on your technique but they mostly forget to mention that if you aren't mobile your technique will suffer.
Aye, when I go to the gym I typically pick up a person to climb with around my level. Most often I find that their hips and legs aren't flexible enough, so when they try to bring up their legs they force their hips out and thus themselves off the wall. I typically will show them child's pose and frog stance to give them a specific motion to help with that.
I started about a year ago at 6- (uiaa) on sunday i sendt my first 8-. I felt like i was platoing at the 7- mark. Tried a couple well protected outdoor 7s and relized i was capable of more. Im hyped. Now my goal is to reach 8 to 8+ by the end of this year.
We’ll say your muscles aren’t all evenly trained. Normal climbing will just effect all the muscles evenly. But if you rain specific stuff you can get a bit of a boost in performance
yeah but there is a reason other athletes dont just play ball, focus most of your time in your main sport(in this case climbing, lets say about 60-80% of your time should be climbing or climbing-like activities if you really want to improve) and the rest of the time you should dedicate to improving the physical abilities directly translatable to your sport, like strenght, localized muscle resistance, etc. which in turn also help lowering injury risk.
the nonspecific training climbers should do are the ones that help antagonistic muscles/ tendons/ cartilage get stronger to protect you from hard climbing and climbing specific training. Maybe you have done a video on this; and I missed it; but I think it would be a good video.
The feeling of progressive overload is important to understand for yourself if you want to improve. I have found lifting useful - not for climbing, but for knowing what it feels like when you're pushing yourself the right amount. If you leave the gym feeling spent for 72 hours after (not in a soreness way, in a mental way)- you probably went too hard for your central nervous system. If you are just getting a pump and have soreness after, you are just fatiguing yourself to no real benefit. Finding that line takes self experimentation, but is key.
I just started climbing, but I also dabble in things like swimming, sprinting, olympic and powerlifting and especially rucking Specificity to sport is very true, many strength and conditioning coaches also know this and understand that the role of strength and conditioning go from "getting strong enough to be able to safely do tasks with relatively good form" to "building a good base to reduce chance and severity of injury" The reason why many younger athletes can have such complex programming that tapers to quite simple programming over the years is because at the start, there is so much you have to gradually and safely build up As you progress though, yes you still aim to improve but you don't need a thousand accessory exercises to proactively try to deter injury chance and instead can put in some accessory work if you may need it S&C is a tool to COMPLIMENT sport specific motion, not to directly progress your ability to execute said sport (as he says)
I find it difficult to measure progress, given the subjectivity of grading and diversity of styles. Especially with how much the difficulty curve steepens after 5.11. It took a couple months to get to 5.10, but four years to consistently climb 5.12s. I can occasionally flash a 5.11+, but that doesn't mean 5.12s won't eventually give me tender and swollen finger joints. I only climb two or three times a week, so I don't think the problem is inadequate rest. I had to take last spring off climbing, when I got severe swelling and tenderness in my knuckes.
I would say it also helps to think about progres differently. If you can do all 6b boulders of certain styles, but not of others, just focussing on the other styles and getting those too is also progres. Its not just about progressing in grades. And what do you lack that makes you not able to get these boulders? Is it a specific technique? Is is fexibility? Stength? Work on that on easier boulders and/or targeted exersizes. If you don't want to work on specific style for now thats also fine, but I find it helps to think of progres in a different way. But I'm currently leaving dynos be for example. Im terrible at them and trying them isnt something I enjoy rn, so any run and jump or dyno I just stay away from until I feel like a different challenge at some point.
I think a lot of intermediate climbers also underestimate getting enough rest. I have kind of rested myself stronger! Goal specific ofc, but for me a couple of moonboard sessions and maybe 1 session for fun a week has been plenty! Active rest days tho, not just laying on the couch
Pullup, Chinup, Deadhangs, probably done on grips similar to what you use when climbing. Tibialis Raises and Calf Raises seem like they may be helpful. I dont climb so theres probably way more.
Well guess what, I did finish a trainingplan that I juuuust am gonna have to stick to. Even added a ton of mobility to it, because im as stiff as a stick c:
Glad you have a good training plan going that you want to stick to! Also, just like adding in the mobility, it's always a good idea to reflect on your plan and see what small changes you can make, to make it that much better :)
Many people say “just climb to get better at climbing” but how do I actually go about that? Should I spend time on my limit projecting, or should I do get a lot volume in sub max routes
That’s a great question and something that probably deserves an entire video. It’s impossible to answer well without more information because it depends on a lot of variables (how experienced of a climber you are, how much time you have, what type of climbing you’re doing, what your goals are, etc). If you’re a newer climber, getting in a lot of volume and focusing on learning the movement patterns in climbing is great. If you’re experienced, you need to consider all those other variables. In general though, it will come down to: trying hard each session doing the type of climbing that you want to get better at, following that up with adequate rest, and then repeating. -Emile
That’s an easy answer, sub max routes. grab a guide book. Select 10 5.8. 10 5.9 then 10 10a/b then 10c/d, and so on. Proceed to climb each grade, all 10 must be sent before moving up a grade. Read Eric Horst training for climbing and the rock warriors way by Arno ilgner.
Hurt my shoulder cave climbing months ago, hurt my neck with a injury machine last week and finally flared up my tendinitis of my thumb (de qur vien?). Now I'm going crazy because I can't hold a phone or door handle never mind weights and holds :(
Gotta say, each individual has strength, flexibility and reach which will become absolute limits to how much they can accomplish eventually. For example if adam ondra was 5 foot 1 he would be nowhere near as good as adam is now. Even with the same technique.
Idk, have you seen some of the short women on lead? I'm 5'2 myself and I do find that especially in the beginning it has many disadvantages, but the better I get the more I also start to notice the advantages of being short. Some of the best female climbers are around my height. And yeah sure sometimes holds are out of reach and a move is literally impossible, so I guess you're right in that sense 😅 But its rare for that to happen.
That will of course depend on many factors (the individual, their habits, genetics, and the intensity/volume of the climbing: are you doing 3 5.7's over that 2 hours? Or working at your max the entire time?). Because of that, I don't want to give a generic yes or no answer, but if you're training 5x/week 2 hours each session at or near your limit... yeah that may cause an injury
Do you have any tipp for any bouldering drills that make you improve your leadclimbing? I make pretty okay progression on bouldering (indoor but mostly gym) and this season send my first 7a+ boulder outdoor. My leadclimbing is pretty weak though and I'm not even sending 6a routs on a consistent level. Assume it's a mix of wrong climbing (full strength pulling) leak of stamina and of course mental challenge. Specifically for the first two problems i hoped I could improve in the gym since i (unluckily) don't find much time outdoors...
Doing some endurance circuits at your bouldering gym could definitely help. You could do 4x4s or even better try to link together 20-30 moves. Do a few sets of this at the end of your bouldering sessions with ample rest between sets. Of course, the best thing would probably be to just do more lead climbing :) -Emile
You answered yourself - endurance and learn to climb efficiently - with the least amount of energy possible. Maybe very technical ARCing in the gym is an idea. And get your mind in check by fall training.
@@leoingson thanks, I think the fall training should be a priority... I frequently get the sewing machine legs, even so the moves are far from being hard and I've never had a uncontrolled fall outdoors or indoors .. Just pure mental breakdown moments on pretty easy climbs... And of course the damaged ego which goes with it... I'm not sure what you mean by ARCing tbh
@@HoopersBeta thank you, I'm happy to hear the routines I have go in the right direction and I love 4x4 drills. I also try to do a lot of traversing (if gym isn't full of course) and consciously searching good rest positions because I noticed I'm taking leadclimbs as long boulderproblem which means the pump kicks in way to fast and I do not yet take my time to be rest or find myself in a situation where I'm pumped but can't find a good rest. Additional question, do you think it's easier for a boulderer to pick up leadclimbs or the other way around?
@@timotheuer4565 Ja, Nähmaschine ist fast immer Kopf :) "Hard is easy" has very good videos on fall training - "You need to stay comfy". Look up "ARC climbing" - long periods (15-30min) of easy climbing just under getting pumped. It's originally for aerobic endurance, but you could also use it to learn to climb more efficiently - perfect technical execution.
Im not sure about climbing but in other sports i know this is not true. General strength training will improve a persons ability to apply force with their body which is useful in any sport - sport specific training has been debunked for a most part.
Sure but certain exercises would have more value for diffeerent sports llike getting a high bench press number wouldn't help in climbing as much as a high squat number. It would help but it would be silly if that was one of your main goals.
CLIMBING will make you a better climber im currently on a plateau though, in my two years of climbing i've hit it at 12d lead, i don't ever boulder but i feel like to crack 13 lead i might have to strength train or actually boulder! but who knows.
I see SOOOO many people doing things like bench press and military press at the gym who’s goal is to climb harder… it makes no sense. Things like face pulls, hangboarding, and flexibility training will get you 100x more bang for your buck
Bench press can be great for climbers if used appropriately! We often recommend ring dips (and variations) instead for convenience reasons, but bench press is still a useful exercise. Strong pecs, for example, are very useful for climbing (compression moves, pulling movements, etc). We wouldn’t tell people to do that as their one and only training exercise, but as part of a training program they can be useful. -Emile
I disagree, when I was young I worked/lived in a indoor climbing centre, I climbed roughly 8-12 hours a day, my progression was phenomenal, reached national level competing in a short 6 years
This is so common in people that like the sport but not like to train Well known go to the gym helps to improve any sports Surfers lifts a lots Climbers weighted dips and pull ups Or gymnastics rings exercises helps tremendously Pylometric and strength workout for legs for a snowboarder too I’m very disagree with this
I think you’ve misunderstood the video. We didn’t say working out in the gym is bad for climbers. On the contrary, we’re huge advocates of strength training for climbers. What we’re saying in this video is that doing random “challenges” and non-specific exercises are not great uses of time (if you’re reasonably fit and healthy) if you want to specifically get better at rock climbing.
theres no athlete that doesn't benefit from the movements they make taking a lower percentage of their strength, otherwise said, no athlete that doesn't benefit from being stronger by doing general strength training, as well as specific muscular conditioning. don't get too specific with how closely an exercise is to a sport. you go to the gym to get stronger, you practice your sport to get better at it. and if cave climbing requires ab endurance, well sit ups build ab endurance, so strictly, sit ups would make you better cave climber
Takes a lot more than that I’m afraid! If it were that simple, there wouldn’t be people climbing v5 for 5 years straight despite going to the gym 3x a week.
@@user-K8T the advantage of training to increase strength/ power endurance/ endurance/ contact strength: is it allows you hang on longer while you figure out the sequence/ techniques needed to climb the move/ route section.
Hangboarding will get you better at hangboarding. Climbing will get you better at climbing. To this day I have never been given a good reason to train. Ken Griffey jr hit 600 home runs without steroids OR weight lifting. Dude didnt even watch tape of pitchers. He just played the game. Likewise, i just climb.
If you accomplish your goals by just climbing, then that’s great! That’s not true or possible for everyone though, as evidenced by the thousands of climbers that plateau despite climbing frequently. For climbers who want to progress into intermediate and advanced grades, structured training / resistance training (including hangboarding) will often be helpful or necessary. As such, not all climbers will benefit from the advice “just climb.” Hangboarding, for example, can and does help countless climbers progress at climbing. Even if it doesn’t align with your personal experience or training philosophy, to say otherwise is to ignore a mountain of evidence (and very strong climbers).
And, a huge “just climb” hurdle is that you will eventually run out of local challenging climbs. Or have few enough of them that progression becomes extremely slow and unpredictable.
Bullshit i didn't get better by climbing, to me what works best is the hangboard, you can only do hangboard and not putting your shoes on for a year and you will improve way faster than only doing boulder (in the gym) for a year. The only thing that make a climber good is finger strenght, so the faster way to get strong finger is hangboarding (of course pay attention to injuries, because with hangboard i mean use it with weights or mono arm)
@@craigbritton1089 no it works for me and for everyone, try starting climbing like after 20 years old, and do only boulder in the gym, maybe in a lifetime the max grade you will achieve will be v11. If you train properly you will achieve way more. Only doing bouldering in the gym is ok if you start climbing when you are a child. (Than of course you also have to climb ahah, you need technique and things like that obiovusly, but to get stronger if you started climb later you have to train with weights)
@@lucaa4480 I didn't say hang boarding would not help. It depends on a person's weaknesses: and the climbs they are trying; a hangboard will do less for freeing long hard crack routes than a crack machine; or doing lots of laps on various sized cracks; but doing some hangboarding will help for crack routes; and being a beast with weighted hangs will not get you up hard slabs if your ankle and hip mobility is poor. Much less just having poor balance. I have been climbing since ' 66: and have seen many a " weaker" climber out climb stronger climbers. And this predicted that when 5.12 was the new limit; that there would be many graded above that done because Yaniro and a few others could do one finger pullups; that climbers would come along with better endurance; better balance better mobility; better ability to recover; a better mindset; better flexibility; better genetics; and as the climbing pool got better; some climbers would be better at all of those; than we were. And they are now here.
Gotta disagree on this one bud! The “shake weight,” is what turned me into a v12 boulderer.
lol well I mean rhythmic stabilizer is good for dynamic stability especially in powerful sports so.... :)
This is true! However you do have to strengthen your whole body (even muscles that are not directly related) as it helps with injury prevention and overall strength!!!
I figured out that just climbing harder grades is really helpful. I peaked at 6a some year ago, then i would simply try and try and try to climb 6b until i succeeded, and when this got too easy i started climbing 6c/7a
So, did you get to 7a without trainning?
I mostly do only climbing as well.
I only climb twice a week and don’t train for climbing outside of that. I climb pretty consistently at a 6b+ but am pretty much plateaued there. I could probably increase a smidge if I climbed more often, but I think to make real improvements I’d need to train for climbing outside of my time actually climbing.
@@adribier I have gotten a handful of 7c boulders from mainly only climbing.
I have done some training other than climbing but i feel like you can get very far without a dedicated training program
I'm strong but not mobile. All these weighted pull-ups and hangboarding sessions have done nothing to improve my bouldering. I've started working on my hip mobility recently and have already noticed a difference. A lot of videos online tell you to work on your technique but they mostly forget to mention that if you aren't mobile your technique will suffer.
Aye, when I go to the gym I typically pick up a person to climb with around my level. Most often I find that their hips and legs aren't flexible enough, so when they try to bring up their legs they force their hips out and thus themselves off the wall. I typically will show them child's pose and frog stance to give them a specific motion to help with that.
I started about a year ago at 6- (uiaa) on sunday i sendt my first 8-. I felt like i was platoing at the 7- mark. Tried a couple well protected outdoor 7s and relized i was capable of more. Im hyped. Now my goal is to reach 8 to 8+ by the end of this year.
Very true, to a point, I guess. As a hobby climber, time is limited. But maybe I have to measure "progress" in a different way then :)
Indeed, it all depends on your goals!
I've found that just climbing hard on different types of projects will get you pretty far
isn't climbing itself the most climbing-specific workout you can do?
Not always
We’ll say your muscles aren’t all evenly trained. Normal climbing will just effect all the muscles evenly. But if you rain specific stuff you can get a bit of a boost in performance
yeah but there is a reason other athletes dont just play ball, focus most of your time in your main sport(in this case climbing, lets say about 60-80% of your time should be climbing or climbing-like activities if you really want to improve) and the rest of the time you should dedicate to improving the physical abilities directly translatable to your sport, like strenght, localized muscle resistance, etc. which in turn also help lowering injury risk.
the nonspecific training climbers should do are the ones that help antagonistic muscles/ tendons/ cartilage get stronger to protect you from hard climbing and climbing specific training. Maybe you have done a video on this; and I missed it; but I think it would be a good video.
Can you point us to other resources identifying these? Thanks!
@@sugarcooki03 are you asking me or Hooper's Beta
@@craigbritton1089 you, if you know of some.
you just said in 2 minutes what took me 3 years to learn, wild this is some golden stuff right here man, really appreciate the content.
I think it could've been faster. Maybe next time he can shoot for 1:45😉
Thank you! Our pleasure :)
You should do a video on cupping!
My struggle is to find a balance between training for climbing and training for mountain biking and backpacking which are my other big passions.
Fair! It's tough when there are so many fun options :)
The feeling of progressive overload is important to understand for yourself if you want to improve. I have found lifting useful - not for climbing, but for knowing what it feels like when you're pushing yourself the right amount. If you leave the gym feeling spent for 72 hours after (not in a soreness way, in a mental way)- you probably went too hard for your central nervous system. If you are just getting a pump and have soreness after, you are just fatiguing yourself to no real benefit. Finding that line takes self experimentation, but is key.
It would be cool to see a video where Hooper analyzes himself and explains what holds him back in bouldering grades
We did that on Anna Hazelnutt’s channel a month or two ago!
@@HoopersBeta nice vid, I have a lot of the same flexibility limitations. especially that crouched pose with the bar overhead.
I just started climbing, but I also dabble in things like swimming, sprinting, olympic and powerlifting and especially rucking
Specificity to sport is very true, many strength and conditioning coaches also know this and understand that the role of strength and conditioning go from "getting strong enough to be able to safely do tasks with relatively good form" to "building a good base to reduce chance and severity of injury"
The reason why many younger athletes can have such complex programming that tapers to quite simple programming over the years is because at the start, there is so much you have to gradually and safely build up
As you progress though, yes you still aim to improve but you don't need a thousand accessory exercises to proactively try to deter injury chance and instead can put in some accessory work if you may need it
S&C is a tool to COMPLIMENT sport specific motion, not to directly progress your ability to execute said sport (as he says)
I find it difficult to measure progress, given the subjectivity of grading and diversity of styles. Especially with how much the difficulty curve steepens after 5.11. It took a couple months to get to 5.10, but four years to consistently climb 5.12s.
I can occasionally flash a 5.11+, but that doesn't mean 5.12s won't eventually give me tender and swollen finger joints. I only climb two or three times a week, so I don't think the problem is inadequate rest. I had to take last spring off climbing, when I got severe swelling and tenderness in my knuckes.
I would say it also helps to think about progres differently. If you can do all 6b boulders of certain styles, but not of others, just focussing on the other styles and getting those too is also progres. Its not just about progressing in grades. And what do you lack that makes you not able to get these boulders? Is it a specific technique? Is is fexibility? Stength? Work on that on easier boulders and/or targeted exersizes. If you don't want to work on specific style for now thats also fine, but I find it helps to think of progres in a different way. But I'm currently leaving dynos be for example. Im terrible at them and trying them isnt something I enjoy rn, so any run and jump or dyno I just stay away from until I feel like a different challenge at some point.
He makes a dumbbell row for back and points his bicep 😵💫
That's what a mega 5 pound weight will do to ya 😉 😅
I think a lot of intermediate climbers also underestimate getting enough rest. I have kind of rested myself stronger! Goal specific ofc, but for me a couple of moonboard sessions and maybe 1 session for fun a week has been plenty! Active rest days tho, not just laying on the couch
It can be quite tricky to find that nice balance between effective training load and getting enough rest/recovery! Active rest days ftw!
That thumbnail of Hoopers handsome face got me to click.
😂 I'm clickbait!! Haha jp.
Can we get some examples of the exercises that will cause good climbing adaptations?
Pullup, Chinup, Deadhangs, probably done on grips similar to what you use when climbing. Tibialis Raises and Calf Raises seem like they may be helpful.
I dont climb so theres probably way more.
I hurt my leg in a crash. I just started climbing and was wondering if squeezing the grip strength things will help?
Well guess what, I did finish a trainingplan that I juuuust am gonna have to stick to.
Even added a ton of mobility to it, because im as stiff as a stick c:
Glad you have a good training plan going that you want to stick to! Also, just like adding in the mobility, it's always a good idea to reflect on your plan and see what small changes you can make, to make it that much better :)
I'm climbing, so that's a climbing-specific activity, I suppose. No plateaus in sight, so it seems to work for me.
Great summary 👏👍🙌 Can’t agree more!
Thank you! :)
Many people say “just climb to get better at climbing” but how do I actually go about that? Should I spend time on my limit projecting, or should I do get a lot volume in sub max routes
That’s a great question and something that probably deserves an entire video. It’s impossible to answer well without more information because it depends on a lot of variables (how experienced of a climber you are, how much time you have, what type of climbing you’re doing, what your goals are, etc). If you’re a newer climber, getting in a lot of volume and focusing on learning the movement patterns in climbing is great. If you’re experienced, you need to consider all those other variables. In general though, it will come down to: trying hard each session doing the type of climbing that you want to get better at, following that up with adequate rest, and then repeating.
-Emile
That’s an easy answer, sub max routes. grab a guide book. Select 10 5.8. 10 5.9 then 10 10a/b then 10c/d, and so on. Proceed to climb each grade, all 10 must be sent before moving up a grade. Read Eric Horst training for climbing and the rock warriors way by Arno ilgner.
Hurt my shoulder cave climbing months ago, hurt my neck with a injury machine last week and finally flared up my tendinitis of my thumb (de qur vien?).
Now I'm going crazy because I can't hold a phone or door handle never mind weights and holds :(
Dang, sorry to hear that! Hope you heal up well and don't go too crazy in the meantime!
dumbell workout for last was wrong should be towards the hip and go a bit heavier 😂
Bro that was at my max!! 😂 🙏
Gotta say, each individual has strength, flexibility and reach which will become absolute limits to how much they can accomplish eventually.
For example if adam ondra was 5 foot 1 he would be nowhere near as good as adam is now. Even with the same technique.
Idk, have you seen some of the short women on lead? I'm 5'2 myself and I do find that especially in the beginning it has many disadvantages, but the better I get the more I also start to notice the advantages of being short. Some of the best female climbers are around my height. And yeah sure sometimes holds are out of reach and a move is literally impossible, so I guess you're right in that sense 😅 But its rare for that to happen.
Just do calisthenics and once you can do every single move in the one arm/one leg variety you move onto actual rock climbing
Strength wise yes, but that's a great way to get your fingers injured
Is climbing five days a week for 2 hours a session reasonable? and will I get injured
That will of course depend on many factors (the individual, their habits, genetics, and the intensity/volume of the climbing: are you doing 3 5.7's over that 2 hours? Or working at your max the entire time?). Because of that, I don't want to give a generic yes or no answer, but if you're training 5x/week 2 hours each session at or near your limit... yeah that may cause an injury
is it normal that if i use a small jug (only my fingers can not my whole palm) my for arms hurt after letting it go?
Do you have any tipp for any bouldering drills that make you improve your leadclimbing? I make pretty okay progression on bouldering (indoor but mostly gym) and this season send my first 7a+ boulder outdoor. My leadclimbing is pretty weak though and I'm not even sending 6a routs on a consistent level. Assume it's a mix of wrong climbing (full strength pulling) leak of stamina and of course mental challenge. Specifically for the first two problems i hoped I could improve in the gym since i (unluckily) don't find much time outdoors...
Doing some endurance circuits at your bouldering gym could definitely help. You could do 4x4s or even better try to link together 20-30 moves. Do a few sets of this at the end of your bouldering sessions with ample rest between sets. Of course, the best thing would probably be to just do more lead climbing :)
-Emile
You answered yourself - endurance and learn to climb efficiently - with the least amount of energy possible. Maybe very technical ARCing in the gym is an idea.
And get your mind in check by fall training.
@@leoingson thanks, I think the fall training should be a priority... I frequently get the sewing machine legs, even so the moves are far from being hard and I've never had a uncontrolled fall outdoors or indoors .. Just pure mental breakdown moments on pretty easy climbs... And of course the damaged ego which goes with it... I'm not sure what you mean by ARCing tbh
@@HoopersBeta thank you, I'm happy to hear the routines I have go in the right direction and I love 4x4 drills. I also try to do a lot of traversing (if gym isn't full of course) and consciously searching good rest positions because I noticed I'm taking leadclimbs as long boulderproblem which means the pump kicks in way to fast and I do not yet take my time to be rest or find myself in a situation where I'm pumped but can't find a good rest.
Additional question, do you think it's easier for a boulderer to pick up leadclimbs or the other way around?
@@timotheuer4565 Ja, Nähmaschine ist fast immer Kopf :) "Hard is easy" has very good videos on fall training - "You need to stay comfy".
Look up "ARC climbing" - long periods (15-30min) of easy climbing just under getting pumped. It's originally for aerobic endurance, but you could also use it to learn to climb more efficiently - perfect technical execution.
Im not sure about climbing but in other sports i know this is not true. General strength training will improve a persons ability to apply force with their body which is useful in any sport - sport specific training has been debunked for a most part.
Sure but certain exercises would have more value for diffeerent sports llike getting a high bench press number wouldn't help in climbing as much as a high squat number. It would help but it would be silly if that was one of your main goals.
CLIMBING will make you a better climber im currently on a plateau though, in my two years of climbing i've hit it at 12d lead, i don't ever boulder but i feel like to crack 13 lead i might have to strength train or actually boulder! but who knows.
#short excuse to show six packs
LOL! Worth
😅
Specificity and Progressive Overload.
Yuuuup
I see SOOOO many people doing things like bench press and military press at the gym who’s goal is to climb harder… it makes no sense. Things like face pulls, hangboarding, and flexibility training will get you 100x more bang for your buck
Bench press can be great for climbers if used appropriately! We often recommend ring dips (and variations) instead for convenience reasons, but bench press is still a useful exercise. Strong pecs, for example, are very useful for climbing (compression moves, pulling movements, etc). We wouldn’t tell people to do that as their one and only training exercise, but as part of a training program they can be useful.
-Emile
People are also always looking at the next grade and harder holds instead of spending time doing easier routes, in good style and form
I’m stuck at 6C/7A…
What you consistently need to do is climb very hard and let people that are better than you teach you
Getting fitter will make you a better climber, there is absolutely no question about that.
"Fitter" is far too broad of a term to make that statement :)
"...gets injured often..." I feel attacked >.>
I disagree, when I was young I worked/lived in a indoor climbing centre, I climbed roughly 8-12 hours a day, my progression was phenomenal, reached national level competing in a short 6 years
How did you endure such long sessions? Even with a standard two hour session I'm sore for a few days.
@Verboten_Joey I was 20, stoned most of the time and very fit when I started, tbh after a while a full day didnt even hurt
@@garryboyd7092 I've been climbing for four years, and can climb 5.12+ consistently. However, I still need more rest than climbing days per week.
Just climb more often. You don't have to do a 2 hour session every time, but get on the wall!
Fingers, fingers, fingers
Trainers hate this one simple trick
😂 got 'em
Ay, terminator sit 🤘
Love that climb!
-Emile
This is so common in people that like the sport but not like to train
Well known go to the gym helps to improve any sports
Surfers lifts a lots
Climbers weighted dips and pull ups
Or gymnastics rings exercises helps tremendously
Pylometric and strength workout for legs for a snowboarder too
I’m very disagree with this
I think you’ve misunderstood the video. We didn’t say working out in the gym is bad for climbers. On the contrary, we’re huge advocates of strength training for climbers. What we’re saying in this video is that doing random “challenges” and non-specific exercises are not great uses of time (if you’re reasonably fit and healthy) if you want to specifically get better at rock climbing.
In other words, climb more to climb better?
theres no athlete that doesn't benefit from the movements they make taking a lower percentage of their strength, otherwise said, no athlete that doesn't benefit from being stronger by doing general strength training, as well as specific muscular conditioning.
don't get too specific with how closely an exercise is to a sport. you go to the gym to get stronger, you practice your sport to get better at it.
and if cave climbing requires ab endurance, well sit ups build ab endurance, so strictly, sit ups would make you better cave climber
To master climbing is to do climbing consistently, it’s very simple.
Takes a lot more than that I’m afraid! If it were that simple, there wouldn’t be people climbing v5 for 5 years straight despite going to the gym 3x a week.
I've been given the advice that you get better at climbing by climbing
Yup! But strength training helps too
And you can almost always get better faster by doing supplemental training; and smart resting
@@craigbritton1089 depends. I don't think I'll actually get any better if I train strength. I think my issue is now technique.
@@user-K8T the advantage of training to increase strength/ power endurance/ endurance/ contact strength: is it allows you hang on longer while you figure out the sequence/ techniques needed to climb the move/ route section.
#Facts
#Wisdom
Hangboarding will get you better at hangboarding. Climbing will get you better at climbing. To this day I have never been given a good reason to train. Ken Griffey jr hit 600 home runs without steroids OR weight lifting. Dude didnt even watch tape of pitchers. He just played the game. Likewise, i just climb.
If you accomplish your goals by just climbing, then that’s great! That’s not true or possible for everyone though, as evidenced by the thousands of climbers that plateau despite climbing frequently. For climbers who want to progress into intermediate and advanced grades, structured training / resistance training (including hangboarding) will often be helpful or necessary. As such, not all climbers will benefit from the advice “just climb.” Hangboarding, for example, can and does help countless climbers progress at climbing. Even if it doesn’t align with your personal experience or training philosophy, to say otherwise is to ignore a mountain of evidence (and very strong climbers).
And, a huge “just climb” hurdle is that you will eventually run out of local challenging climbs.
Or have few enough of them that progression becomes extremely slow and unpredictable.
well if you don’t let your body rest you won’t get better eithe
Bullshit i didn't get better by climbing, to me what works best is the hangboard, you can only do hangboard and not putting your shoes on for a year and you will improve way faster than only doing boulder (in the gym) for a year.
The only thing that make a climber good is finger strenght, so the faster way to get strong finger is hangboarding (of course pay attention to injuries, because with hangboard i mean use it with weights or mono arm)
anecdote that applies to you; and a percentage of others; some can hang on forever; but poor mobility keeps them from being able to move properly.
@@craigbritton1089 no it works for me and for everyone, try starting climbing like after 20 years old, and do only boulder in the gym, maybe in a lifetime the max grade you will achieve will be v11. If you train properly you will achieve way more. Only doing bouldering in the gym is ok if you start climbing when you are a child.
(Than of course you also have to climb ahah, you need technique and things like that obiovusly, but to get stronger if you started climb later you have to train with weights)
@@lucaa4480 I didn't say hang boarding would not help. It depends on a person's weaknesses: and the climbs they are trying; a hangboard will do less for freeing long hard crack routes than a crack machine; or doing lots of laps on various sized cracks; but doing some hangboarding will help for crack routes; and being a beast with weighted hangs will not get you up hard slabs if your ankle and hip mobility is poor. Much less just having poor balance. I have been climbing since ' 66: and have seen many a " weaker" climber out climb stronger climbers. And this predicted that when 5.12 was the new limit; that there would be many graded above that done because Yaniro and a few others could do one finger pullups; that climbers would come along with better endurance; better balance better mobility; better ability to recover; a better mindset; better flexibility; better genetics; and as the climbing pool got better; some climbers would be better at all of those; than we were.
And they are now here.
i go every other day at the bouldering gym for the past 2-3 months and i mastered v6
😂😂😂😅
Advice comes from someone is not fit lol 😂