This is why I unsubbed all 3d printer channels last year as they are all out to get free stuff and when backed against the wall they will finally tell you the truth but getting to that point you almost need a gun to their head. Never ever believe any review that the item was "given" to the reviewer as they are not going to bite the hand that gives them free stuff.
I have two of those, bought on special, and might have even bought a third if it was on special. But this one runs much better than the mastercraft routers I was comparing it to.
You may want to have a look at the Bosch 1617EVSPK. It has many of the same features, including a metal T wrench for upside down router height adjustment. It also has collets for different shank sizes. I believe it is the standard 89 mm size. The downside is that you have to buy some of the accessories like the centering cone etc. separately.
Hmm, good point. The lock makes it kind of redundant. I do remember trying to adjust my first router, a plunger outer under a table, and that is just awful, with the springs working against you all he time.
Perfect review! I have owned this router for eight years and it will power through any job with ease. I love the LED work lights and the clear base. Like yours, my router's plunge action is totally unusable. I've almost killed myself a couple of times. I even took the springs out and shortened them slightly. I lubricated the shafts with silicon spray and reassembled. No good. Lubrication isn't needed because of the brass bushings, which also keep dust from getting up in there. It's still unusable. I only use the fixed base. That works great. Considering replacing it with the Bosch MRC23.
Big fan of Ridgid tools, but always surprises me when companies make decisions to stray from standards sizes and so on. But you can't beat the warranty!
Lower speeds are important with larger bits. Also, less burning, less dust, less noise, less tool wear at slower speed, though the cuts can be messier.
Your response on preferred tools for a deserted island cracked me up... It is really nice that you actually take the time to read and reply to comments, even if humorously. Nice review!
I find the variable speed very useful and I don't even have a router table, just a plunge base. If you use larger diameter router bits you really wont to turn down the speed. Another thing (but that's dependent on the model, so check first) is that variable speed routers don't just set a speed, but they try to keep it under load.
Great info on the router. I have a few Ridgid tools and most are are good. I do have a problem with the batteries on their drills a impact drivers. They seem to fail quickly. By that I mean they won't hold a charge. My Ridgid 4512 table saw works great though. Thanks Mathias, Roland
I have a handheld Ridgid router (laminate trimmer) that I used on many jobs for over 5 years and it still works great. Switched to the Bosch version (got it as a gift) and that is a great tool as well but I prefer the design of the on/off switch on the Ridgid because it's extremely unlikely to you could hit to button and turn it on accidentally, not so with the Bosch.
I bought this model for my pantorouter. I made only a few things with it before encountering a problem. I broke the nut that holds the collet in place while tightening it. A call to the company revealed that they don't have that part and I have to go to an outside source. It seems that they have a bit of a problem with that, and there might be liability issues with broken bolts flying off. They are made from pretty thin metal. I hope I can find the part, or at least a machine shop that can fabricate one!
Very simple to order on line. I have 4 of these routers that are used daily and have never broken a part, however I have lost parts such as the collet insert. It only takes about three days to get a new one so far.
I'm in high school and I'm going into my final 2 years and I choose industrial technology (I is basically wood work and metal work combined) just because I've watched this guys vids the last weeks
Love all your vids..... I'm glad you have shown us that you can do really nice work with the low end of tools as long as you know the limitations and make adaptations to make up for it.... invaluable
I played the home-game version, with my Craftsman router, and found out that I also have a way of lifting the router when it is upside down. Thanks Matthias! Now to make a router lift table...
I actually own this router set, and agree with pretty much everything you said. The plunge base has basically disintegrated - it comes apart (literally, springs exposed) on occasion. I used the fixed base as my 'router lift' and the t-wrench you discovered works great. I fear the end of it warping or stripping and being unable to turn the nut. I always 'help' the router by lifting it from the bottom if I'm raising it. That 1/4" adapter is a POS - any dirt, etc and it sticks in the collet.
Wish I'd seen this a year ago because I bought myself this exact model, but I guess it wouldn't have mattered. I love it. I have another less powerful mastercraft router on a mastercarft router table, it was a good cheap starting router, but I got tired of putting it on and taking it off the table and wanted a nicer plunge router. The plunge base is stiff I find, but overall it works really well and it's been a great router and a joy to use. I'm looking forward to building a table for it and have been playing with some ideas for a router lift, but noticed, just a couple of weeks ago, the t-bar thing in the bag at which point I was pretty excited that I wasn't going to have to build a router lift for it. The static base will work as a lift as it is.
OMG!!!! I've been looking at router lifts, both pre-fab and homemade ... This video suddenly plays after another video of yours I was checking out and I see the router base with the allen key thingy and remember only seeing that type of router lift on a Milwaukee router before ... I decide to go check out my Mastercraft Maximum that I have a spare (3rd) fixed base for to see if I can modify it to make it lift and sure enough, its ALREADY GOT THE DAMN ALLEN KEY SLOT BUILT INTO IT!!!! All I had to do was drill a 1/4" hole in my router table to access it and its working like a charm!!!! ... You would think they would go out of their way and have put huge writing on the front of the box letting you know it had these awesome features!!!! ... Thanks again for saving the day Matthias! ..... (also, I have had nothing but good things to say about the Mastercraft Maximum router kit in the past, now i find it 5X better!! If any of you see one pop up for sale on Kijiji or Craig's List for cheap, snag it up!! My friend grabbed one that was never used a few weeks ago for $75!)
Great review! But hey who would ever seriously consider to buy a router lift?? ;) I have always been looking for a cylindrical router but as you know in Europe these things are extinct. However I found one labeled AEG that looks suspiciously like your new router (MF 1400 KE) but man, it goes for about 400€!!
As I commented before, all 4 of my routers came from pawn shops. 2 are hi end Porter-Cables, 1 is an amazing DeWalt DW610 and 1 is a terrible Makita that doesn't get much use. Two were nearly new, one had occasional use and one had been used a lot. They were purchased at different times and different pawn shops at around $40.00 each.
I bought a 1 hr craftsman a few years ago with very similar features. Put it on my router table and never took it off. Build the router table accessories around the location of the router features. Matthias pushes the envelope.
Hi Matthias, I use the european version of this router in my router table. It's called "AEG MF1400KE" Thx for you review, now I know where to get a 1/2 inch chuck. :-)
I have this router. I bought mine because of the dual base feature and being on a budget, I got the most bang for my buck. Any way I am glad to see it got good reviews, I feel better about my purchase now. Thanx Matthias!! Keep up the great videos! Love watching your videos!!! :D
Thanks for the great review. I have the exact same router package. The above table adjustment is very good, but you have to be careful as the router will drop out of the housing while making adjustments. Like you, I find the plunge base to be worthless. The plunging mechanism binds and makes precision work impossible.
Noticed that you bought that at the home depot next to Algonquin College. My old stopping grounds. I use to get supplies for my architectural models there. Small world!
Great product evaluation. I really like that you bought it & therefore have no obligation to make anyone else happy by saying stuff that isn't true. On the size problem. It occurs to me, perhaps having a "thicker" motor body contributes to the better stability and speed variability. Lowering the speed, depending on how it is done, will raise the current flow. bigger wire in the windings would help the life of the motor. Just trying to think of reasons an engineer would make the decision.
Same thoughts exactly. I was trying to determine if it could be turned down just by catching a glimpse in the video. If you don't have a lathe some shop may want what the router is worth just to take that 16th off. Man I wish I could afford a good sized metal working lathe.
That would require a bulkier camera, and futzing with the mike all the time. Net result would be more time per video, and thus fewer videos for you to watch. You wouldn't want that.
I don't think so. I don't see them selling accessories, other than the ones that come with the router. I figure this non-standard size is more the result of ignorance than malice.
Im so glad you did this review. I just sent an email your way about cabinets, and then I stumbled upon this! I was greatfull to hear your input on this router since you work so much with routers. I have an old Mastercraft router table that came with my Mastercraft 1/4" collet Plunge router. However, I thinks that mounting it with this table is a bust! Looks like I may have to try and build one myself. Hope I can figure out a good plan for a homeade router table on my budget...wish me luck!
Wow I got the same router, like new from a pawn shop. I just learned about the 1/4" insert, it was slightly stuck in the collet. I was slightly disappointed when I bought this router thinking it only had 1/4" , adapter removed, now I'm happy.
I have several of these routers that I use every day and have never had a problem with them. If you look when ordering then getting the proper size router lift is not a problem and ridged is not the only router they fit. Granted that Porter Cable and DeWalt are the same size but there are several that are the same size as Ridgid so they are not alone and are not an odd size.
I bought my Ridgid about 3 months ago and I love it! I want a table for it though and the Bosch looks the most appealing with all of the fences and stop block acc. it comes with. Either way, thanks for the walkthrough Matthias.
+Duncan Pearson What sort of a base did you have to purchase to use the Rigid router with the Bosh table. I would like to get the bosh table but was told that the router will not hook up.
the router does hook up to the plate....took some trial and error but finally found the right spot without drilling any holes. Its close....but it fits lol.
The quality of this motor is every bit as good as the Ridgid. It's also cheaper. It does lack the height adjustment installed in the fixed base that Matthias really liked. But, any router lift will have its own method for adjusting bit height.
I got this router at the HD across the street from my house, but they don't sell the combo kit with the plunge base. And now I can't find the plunge base separately. It would be nice, since it's my only router and I am a casual wood worker. I do really like it otherwise, but after about two years that collet adapter did let a 1/4' bit drop. luckily it only dropped a little, but I am moving getting only 1/2' bits.
The TRIAC is effectively two antiparallel SCRs in one device. It controls the speed by not turning on until some portion of the supply waveform has already passed. With DC, it would turn on and stay on until the supply shut off. The on/off switch contacts would be the main problem, as the DC arcing is much harder to quench as there aren't the convenient zero current bits twice every cycle.
TTI (Ridgid's parent company) lists the US model as R29302 -- search for that model number on the home depot site and it will come up. If you live in upstate SC and get invited to TTI's warehouse sale, you can pick a referb. one for $100
Thanks for a very thorough and useful router review. I especially like the line, "I only buy the cheap stuff". For table mounting you'd probably like a beefier 3 1/4 hp Hitachi M12V for just a tad more $. Of course it's not a fixed base router and wouldn't work with your lift. Except for those minor inconveniences, it'd be the perfect router for your various machines :)
I suspect that the additional diameter is to accommodate larger diameter bearings. I have a router with the standard 89mm body and it only lasted about 150 hours on my CNC router (I am on my second). I looked at getting a longer life bearings and the affordable ones were all larger. I may try the Rigid next time If I am willing to take the hit on a new collet and nut set plus boring out the clamp.
On the blogs or reviews there are people who have put over 100 hours on their router and they want some thing that lasts longer. I take it that they are making custom cabinets and they want the routers to last a long time. It's interesting that the thing that failed were the bearings and not the brushes. Actually I would like a brushless router motor but suspect that they will be costly. BTW, I like your RUclips channel, I especially covet the band saws.
If you want spindles that last a longer time, just use a motor spindle. They're meant for easy mounting, are usually water cooled and inverter driven. The cheap Chinesium ones aren't more expensive than a good router anyway and still kinda decent. The cheap 400 Hz spindles do ~24k RPM.
Some router motors may only have an intermittent duty rating. Something like a CNC machine would likely spend longer periods with the rotor motor running and might do better with one that has a constant duty rating.
I have a cheap Einhell plunger router...and I have to admit it plunges quite smoothly...I don't know if I just lucked out, but it is actually a very good router...I think it was only 50 euros...and it's been worth it so far...it's not suitable, without modification, to put into a table or anything, but still a good buy.
Cheap Stuff here too.. I have $25 in my Craftsman Router & have been looking at a really nice one at the pawn shop that's a Porter Cable with both the fixed & plunge bases for $90
Good deal, Bosch sells the dust extraction and centering cones as separate accessories. "I pay for my own power tools, so I can say what I want." Well said Matthias!
Looking at your review I agree with your criticisms of the Ridgid router. I like Ridgid tools too because they are inexpensive and do a good job for the money You might look to Sears as they have a router much like the Ridgid but it has a 3 and a half inch barrel and two collets like you wanted . I did a lot of the same tests you did on my sears routers and found them to be better than my set of porter cable routers .The plunge base on the Sears was as good or better than any router I've seen .
Universal motors (like what is in most power tools) don't care about frequency (they can even run on DC) and the speed control is just a TRIAC chopper (same as what most light dimmers use), so the lower mains frequency should not be an issue.
Good reading your and others comments regarding these routers. Spare a thought for us watching on the other side of the pond, as fixed routers are as rare as news teeth (like so much of what you guys have to choose from!), though I think I have seen the first from Bosch available now.
I noticed that you used a Mastercraft Maximum router in some of your videos and since I didn't have one that would work in the pantorouter I went out and got one. I'm pretty impressed. It's a really solid router with nice features! (Soft start, led lights, speed control.) I seem to recall hearing the the Mastercraft Maximum line is made by DeWalt or at least the same maker as DeWalt.
+Matthias Wandel Well, I already had a Porter Cable 690 and a Triton 3 1/4 hp for the router table. I was basing my comparisons to those. I guess time will tell, but at first blush, I'm impressed. I would agree with a statement you made in one of your videos, I think, that it a significant step up from the run of the mill Mastercraft like.
BTW, wanted to tell you for a while that you are an inspiration! I had been neglecting my woodworking shop for several years, and just recently got the motivation to return to it after watching many of your videos. Let's just say that before I lost interest in my woodworking, I got my inspiration from my subscriptions to (almost all the) woodworking magazines. I can't say for certain but there wasn't much on RUclips as far as woodworking goes. How things have changed in the last 5 to 8 years! (Yes, that's how long my shop has been mostly ignored. I have to say that showing my dogs has taken up a lot of my time that would otherwise have been spent in my shop. I'm a bit like a dog myself that way: I think I'm going to build a... SQUIRREL!!! Love all the projects with salvaged/reclaimed/repurposed materiel. We waste way too much!!! BTW Never would have thought of using the Skillsaw blades for resawing. Great idea!
I don't know about the quality of this router because I don't own it but it is only 180€ on TOOLSTOP CO UK Hitachi M12VE 1/2 Inch Electronic Router Capacity: Collet Chuck: 1/2in Stroke: 65mm (2 - 9/16") Power Input: 2,000W No Load Speed: 8,000 - 22,000/min Net weight: 5.3kg Hope this helps, Peter
I just bought Mastercraft Maximum Router 2hp variable speed (with FIXED and PLUNGE BASE) for 110$ this past friday (maybe still on special) @ canadian Tire. Was a random purchase wasn't planning to buy the router but was SUCH a good deal. Looks exactly like your except that theres TOOTH RAIL on the router to adjust Z axis
I own quite a bit of Ridgid tools including that router I've had for the past 6 years no complaints about the performance but that is the one thing they get you on they tend to make Their tools only compatible with their accessories the best part is there's almost no universal replacement parts for their line Of tools you have to buy everything from the manufacturer or a Ridgid dealer
hi .Matthias Love your videos, always look forward to new posts. Just finished reading fine wood working's "MAKING AND MODIFYING MACHINES” seeing the similarity between your machines and there’s, you probably have read it, but if you haven’t it’s a great read
A lot of play in the shafts is a common issue for all hand routers, regardless of the price. Well, except something really outstanding, like Festool. When i bought mine, i tried almost everything at stores, and there was over 500$ DeWalt with horrible play (about 2mm when locked, yeah, only one shaft locks), and some under 100$ chinese one without play at all. Of course, i bought the latter.
Neither of my Bosch plunge-only ("European-style") routers I have (two different models about 100 EUR new) display any discernible play in the plunging shafts... and certainly nothing like in the video.
Absolutely, just like Radio Shack, HP, Sears, and countless other companies that change perfectly good standards into a secrete recipe that most ordinary folks cannot get around.
Hi M it would be good if the spindle locks on routers locked into place so you could hold the bit with one hand and tighten the nut with the other and not need three hands , G
Both my Hitachi and Makita routers have the separate collet reducer to go to 1/4" yours seems a bit different with a collar at the top. It could be the insert adaptor is better because you simply loosen it and it slides out (like any bit would) instead of spinning the whole collet off and reinstalling the different 1/2" collet.
It is also faster to change bits with collar like this, because at least on my hitachi it's not enough to loosen the nut, you have to undo the nut about 1,5 turns with fingers, then turn a little more with wrench to pull out the collet and free the bit.
I was going to mention that Amazon has the Porter Cable 892 (standard size, separate collets) for US$162, so you probably would have been better off ordering that online. Then I checked Amazon Canada, which charges CDN$216... So I guess that's just the cost of living in Canada. It seems a perfectly pleasant country in many other ways, though ;-)
Nice review. Coming from you I know I can trust the assessment. I've been considering buying a better router than I have. I may have to go this route. Ridgid has been good to me so far. Thank you.
Very informative review. Just to clarify ... the variable speed is because you want it in your tilting router table, correct? Do you think you'd need these extra features if you were putting it in the moritser or pantorouter? Or would you then just buy the $70 Mastercraft from Canadian Tire?
Matthias, couldn't you make interchangeable mounts for the tilting router lift? Make one for the smaller router and keep another for the larger router. Then if you have to switch routers for whatever reason you could just unscrew the one and screw on the other. Is that possible?
The accessories are where companies make their money. You can buy a printer with two ink cartridges for $39.00 but the ink cartridges cost $25.00 to $30.00 each.
The plunge action on the Dewalt I bought was the best I have seen, even Makita sucked big time, once they are expensive they all seem to be good. Best cheap routers imho, Dewalt
Wow, that really is a fundamental flaw in the design. Whilst you can adjust your router lift or other jigs, this probably rules this router out as a drop-in for people's CNCs, etc.
In the Netherlands, this router is sold as the AEG MF 1400 KE for 400 euro. What did you say? It costs only 100 dollar across the pond? That's some pretty expensive shipping!
What kind of wall thickness is there on that cylinder? . It may be possible to turn off 1/16" from each side to get it to match the standard size. The clamping action of the split base may still work the same way. . The down side is that with loss of material, you will lose some heat sink action.
stihl and rigid are contractor companies thats why the have such great(but expensive stuff) those two brands along with klein and stanley are pretty much the only brands i use
"I pay for my own powertools, so I can say what I want..." And you run the channel with the most integrity, no doubt... :)
I dunno, AvE's pretty brutal too.
This is why I unsubbed all 3d printer channels last year as they are all out to get free stuff and when backed against the wall they will finally tell you the truth but getting to that point you almost need a gun to their head. Never ever believe any review that the item was "given" to the reviewer as they are not going to bite the hand that gives them free stuff.
Jesper Hansen absolutely totally agree, the most integrity.
Matt, you'd make a good router salesman because I really fell in love with this one.
I have two of those, bought on special, and might have even bought a third if it was on special. But this one runs much better than the mastercraft routers I was comparing it to.
Gotta love the honest review, rather than constant praise.
You may want to have a look at the Bosch 1617EVSPK.
It has many of the same features, including a metal T wrench for upside down router height adjustment. It also has collets for different shank sizes. I believe it is the standard 89 mm size. The downside is that you have to buy some of the accessories like the centering cone etc. separately.
"I pay for my own power tools so I can say what I want" - I love your videos Matthias! Keep it up.
Hmm, good point. The lock makes it kind of redundant.
I do remember trying to adjust my first router, a plunger outer under a table, and that is just awful, with the springs working against you all he time.
Perfect review! I have owned this router for eight years and it will power through any job with ease. I love the LED work lights and the clear base. Like yours, my router's plunge action is totally unusable. I've almost killed myself a couple of times. I even took the springs out and shortened them slightly. I lubricated the shafts with silicon spray and reassembled. No good. Lubrication isn't needed because of the brass bushings, which also keep dust from getting up in there. It's still unusable. I only use the fixed base. That works great. Considering replacing it with the Bosch MRC23.
+Rodney Fisk does 1/2 inch shaft fits to this router? עם אתה מישראל איפה קניתה אם יש לך תפסן של 1/2 אינץ
+Daniel Gladyshev yep
Big fan of Ridgid tools, but always surprises me when companies make decisions to stray from standards sizes and so on. But you can't beat the warranty!
"i pay for my own power tools so I can say what I want" earned a "like" and a "subscribe"
same
Lower speeds are important with larger bits. Also, less burning, less dust, less noise, less tool wear at slower speed, though the cuts can be messier.
Your response on preferred tools for a deserted island cracked me up... It is really nice that you actually take the time to read and reply to comments, even if humorously. Nice review!
love that you have not sold your soul to get tools
"I pay for my own power tools, so uhh, i can say what i want"
Thug Life.
I find the variable speed very useful and I don't even have a router table, just a plunge base. If you use larger diameter router bits you really wont to turn down the speed. Another thing (but that's dependent on the model, so check first) is that variable speed routers don't just set a speed, but they try to keep it under load.
The best product review I've seen in a long while - very practical viewpoints. Thanks Matthias.
Yes, I mention that in the article. Too much detail for the video
Great info on the router. I have a few Ridgid tools and most are are good. I do have a problem with the batteries on their drills a impact drivers. They seem to fail quickly. By that I mean they won't hold a charge. My Ridgid 4512 table saw works great though.
Thanks Mathias,
Roland
I have a handheld Ridgid router (laminate trimmer) that I used on many jobs for over 5 years and it still works great. Switched to the Bosch version (got it as a gift) and that is a great tool as well but I prefer the design of the on/off switch on the Ridgid because it's extremely unlikely to you could hit to button and turn it on accidentally, not so with the Bosch.
I bought this model for my pantorouter. I made only a few things with it before encountering a problem. I broke the nut that holds the collet in place while tightening it. A call to the company revealed that they don't have that part and I have to go to an outside source. It seems that they have a bit of a problem with that, and there might be liability issues with broken bolts flying off. They are made from pretty thin metal. I hope I can find the part, or at least a machine shop that can fabricate one!
Very simple to order on line. I have 4 of these routers that are used daily and have never broken a part, however I have lost parts such as the collet insert. It only takes about three days to get a new one so far.
I'm in high school and I'm going into my final 2 years and I choose industrial technology (I is basically wood work and metal work combined) just because I've watched this guys vids the last weeks
How's it going?
Love all your vids..... I'm glad you have shown us that you can do really nice work with the low end of tools as long as you know the limitations and make adaptations to make up for it.... invaluable
This ia not a low end but a solid midrange.
I played the home-game version, with my Craftsman router, and found out that I also have a way of lifting the router when it is upside down. Thanks Matthias! Now to make a router lift table...
I actually own this router set, and agree with pretty much everything you said. The plunge base has basically disintegrated - it comes apart (literally, springs exposed) on occasion. I used the fixed base as my 'router lift' and the t-wrench you discovered works great. I fear the end of it warping or stripping and being unable to turn the nut. I always 'help' the router by lifting it from the bottom if I'm raising it. That 1/4" adapter is a POS - any dirt, etc and it sticks in the collet.
Great review, I believe I own the same router and I've been quite happy with mine for most jobs I've done with it. It's been a solid tool for me.
Wish I'd seen this a year ago because I bought myself this exact model, but I guess it wouldn't have mattered. I love it.
I have another less powerful mastercraft router on a mastercarft router table, it was a good cheap starting router, but I got tired of putting it on and taking it off the table and wanted a nicer plunge router. The plunge base is stiff I find, but overall it works really well and it's been a great router and a joy to use.
I'm looking forward to building a table for it and have been playing with some ideas for a router lift, but noticed, just a couple of weeks ago, the t-bar thing in the bag at which point I was pretty excited that I wasn't going to have to build a router lift for it. The static base will work as a lift as it is.
OMG!!!! I've been looking at router lifts, both pre-fab and homemade ... This video suddenly plays after another video of yours I was checking out and I see the router base with the allen key thingy and remember only seeing that type of router lift on a Milwaukee router before ... I decide to go check out my Mastercraft Maximum that I have a spare (3rd) fixed base for to see if I can modify it to make it lift and sure enough, its ALREADY GOT THE DAMN ALLEN KEY SLOT BUILT INTO IT!!!! All I had to do was drill a 1/4" hole in my router table to access it and its working like a charm!!!! ... You would think they would go out of their way and have put huge writing on the front of the box letting you know it had these awesome features!!!! ... Thanks again for saving the day Matthias! ..... (also, I have had nothing but good things to say about the Mastercraft Maximum router kit in the past, now i find it 5X better!! If any of you see one pop up for sale on Kijiji or Craig's List for cheap, snag it up!! My friend grabbed one that was never used a few weeks ago for $75!)
Great review! But hey who would ever seriously consider to buy a router lift?? ;) I have always been looking for a cylindrical router but as you know in Europe these things are extinct. However I found one labeled AEG that looks suspiciously like your new router (MF 1400 KE) but man, it goes for about 400€!!
As I commented before, all 4 of my routers came from pawn shops. 2 are hi end Porter-Cables, 1 is an amazing DeWalt DW610 and 1 is a terrible Makita that doesn't get much use. Two were nearly new, one had occasional use and one had been used a lot. They were purchased at different times and different pawn shops at around $40.00 each.
I bought a 1 hr craftsman a few years ago with very similar features. Put it on my router table and never took it off. Build the router table accessories around the location of the router features. Matthias pushes the envelope.
Hi Matthias, I use the european version of this router in my router table. It's called "AEG MF1400KE"
Thx for you review, now I know where to get a 1/2 inch chuck. :-)
In the article. it's not that straight forward, because each part has it's own model number.
Matthias Wandel what a great engineer you are. Thanks for sharing your wisdom !
I have this router. I bought mine because of the dual base feature and being on a budget, I got the most bang for my buck. Any way I am glad to see it got good reviews, I feel better about my purchase now. Thanx Matthias!! Keep up the great videos! Love watching your videos!!! :D
The fixed base lift is similar to Bosch. The plunge base on my Bosch has zero play. good review sir.
Thanks for the great review. I have the exact same router package. The above table adjustment is very good, but you have to be careful as the router will drop out of the housing while making adjustments. Like you, I find the plunge base to be worthless. The plunging mechanism binds and makes precision work impossible.
Noticed that you bought that at the home depot next to Algonquin College. My old stopping grounds. I use to get supplies for my architectural models there.
Small world!
Great product evaluation. I really like that you bought it & therefore have no obligation to make anyone else happy by saying stuff that isn't true. On the size problem. It occurs to me, perhaps having a "thicker" motor body contributes to the better stability and speed variability. Lowering the speed, depending on how it is done, will raise the current flow. bigger wire in the windings would help the life of the motor. Just trying to think of reasons an engineer would make the decision.
Same thoughts exactly. I was trying to determine if it could be turned down just by catching a glimpse in the video. If you don't have a lathe some shop may want what the router is worth just to take that 16th off. Man I wish I could afford a good sized metal working lathe.
That would require a bulkier camera, and futzing with the mike all the time.
Net result would be more time per video, and thus fewer videos for you to watch. You wouldn't want that.
I don't think so. I don't see them selling accessories, other than the ones that come with the router. I figure this non-standard size is more the result of ignorance than malice.
Im so glad you did this review. I just sent an email your way about cabinets, and then I stumbled upon this! I was greatfull to hear your input on this router since you work so much with routers. I have an old Mastercraft router table that came with my Mastercraft 1/4" collet Plunge router. However, I thinks that mounting it with this table is a bust! Looks like I may have to try and build one myself. Hope I can figure out a good plan for a homeade router table on my budget...wish me luck!
Wow I got the same router, like new from a pawn shop. I just learned about the 1/4" insert, it was slightly stuck in the collet. I was slightly disappointed when I bought this router thinking it only had 1/4" , adapter removed, now I'm happy.
I have several of these routers that I use every day and have never had a problem with them. If you look when ordering then getting the proper size router lift is not a problem and ridged is not the only router they fit. Granted that Porter Cable and DeWalt are the same size but there are several that are the same size as Ridgid so they are not alone and are not an odd size.
I bought my Ridgid about 3 months ago and I love it! I want a table for it though and the Bosch looks the most appealing with all of the fences and stop block acc. it comes with. Either way, thanks for the walkthrough Matthias.
+Duncan Pearson What sort of a base did you have to purchase to use the Rigid router with the Bosh table. I would like to get the bosh table but was told that the router will not hook up.
the router does hook up to the plate....took some trial and error but finally found the right spot without drilling any holes. Its close....but it fits lol.
I was just at Home Depot today and was looking at that router. Thankfully I watched this video! I hate non conforming product dimensions!
The quality of this motor is every bit as good as the Ridgid. It's also cheaper. It does lack the height adjustment installed in the fixed base that Matthias really liked. But, any router lift will have its own method for adjusting bit height.
I got this router at the HD across the street from my house, but they don't sell the combo kit with the plunge base. And now I can't find the plunge base separately. It would be nice, since it's my only router and I am a casual wood worker. I do really like it otherwise, but after about two years that collet adapter did let a 1/4' bit drop. luckily it only dropped a little, but I am moving getting only 1/2' bits.
I so appreciate your honesty
The TRIAC is effectively two antiparallel SCRs in one device. It controls the speed by not turning on until some portion of the supply waveform has already passed. With DC, it would turn on and stay on until the supply shut off.
The on/off switch contacts would be the main problem, as the DC arcing is much harder to quench as there aren't the convenient zero current bits twice every cycle.
TTI (Ridgid's parent company) lists the US model as R29302 -- search for that model number on the home depot site and it will come up.
If you live in upstate SC and get invited to TTI's warehouse sale, you can pick a referb. one for $100
The cone is to align the router to a router plate in a table in addition to what you showed.
Careful, that is usually the power consumed rather than power at collet. Some manufacturers will give you both other just power useage.
I have found when you mount the dust attachment the plastic t height adjustment handle hits the screws that mount the dust collection.
Thanks for a very thorough and useful router review. I especially like the line, "I only buy the cheap stuff".
For table mounting you'd probably like a beefier 3 1/4 hp Hitachi M12V for just a tad more $. Of course it's not a fixed base router and wouldn't work with your lift. Except for those minor inconveniences, it'd be the perfect router for your various machines :)
I suspect that the additional diameter is to accommodate larger diameter bearings. I have a router with the standard 89mm body and it only lasted about 150 hours on my CNC router (I am on my second). I looked at getting a longer life bearings and the affordable ones were all larger. I may try the Rigid next time If I am willing to take the hit on a new collet and nut set plus boring out the clamp.
150 hours is a long time. Imagine using a handhend router for 150 hours!
On the blogs or reviews there are people who have put over 100 hours on their router and they want some thing that lasts longer. I take it that they are making custom cabinets and they want the routers to last a long time. It's interesting that the thing that failed were the bearings and not the brushes. Actually I would like a brushless router motor but suspect that they will be costly.
BTW, I like your RUclips channel, I especially covet the band saws.
If you want spindles that last a longer time, just use a motor spindle. They're meant for easy mounting, are usually water cooled and inverter driven. The cheap Chinesium ones aren't more expensive than a good router anyway and still kinda decent. The cheap 400 Hz spindles do ~24k RPM.
Some router motors may only have an intermittent duty rating. Something like a CNC machine would likely spend longer periods with the rotor motor running and might do better with one that has a constant duty rating.
I have a cheap Einhell plunger router...and I have to admit it plunges quite smoothly...I don't know if I just lucked out, but it is actually a very good router...I think it was only 50 euros...and it's been worth it so far...it's not suitable, without modification, to put into a table or anything, but still a good buy.
Congrats on 100k subscribers! It's funny how you and Steve are close on this.
Cheap Stuff here too.. I have $25 in my Craftsman Router & have been looking at a really nice one at the pawn shop that's a Porter Cable with both the fixed & plunge bases for $90
Good deal, Bosch sells the dust extraction and centering cones as separate accessories.
"I pay for my own power tools, so I can say what I want." Well said Matthias!
Looking at your review I agree with your criticisms of the Ridgid router. I like Ridgid tools too because they are inexpensive and do a good job for the money You might look to Sears as they have a router much like the Ridgid but it has a 3 and a half inch barrel and two collets like you wanted . I did a lot of the same tests you did on my sears routers and found them to be better than my set of porter cable routers .The plunge base on the Sears was as good or better than any router I've seen .
hmm, I suppose if the router is hanging off of it, that would be worse than how I demonstrated it. Have you tried lubricating it?
I was just looking at this model at Home Depot the other day I guess now I'm convinced to get this one.
Universal motors (like what is in most power tools) don't care about frequency (they can even run on DC) and the speed control is just a TRIAC chopper (same as what most light dimmers use), so the lower mains frequency should not be an issue.
No. It's not like they wouldn't know this already.
Good reading your and others comments regarding these routers. Spare a thought for us watching on the other side of the pond, as fixed routers are as rare as news teeth (like so much of what you guys have to choose from!), though I think I have seen the first from Bosch available now.
I noticed that you used a Mastercraft Maximum router in some of your videos and since I didn't have one that would work in the pantorouter I went out and got one. I'm pretty impressed. It's a really solid router with nice features! (Soft start, led lights, speed control.) I seem to recall hearing the the Mastercraft Maximum line is made by DeWalt or at least the same maker as DeWalt.
+laurentco They are good for the money. But brand name routers that cost twice as much tend to be noticeably better.
+Matthias Wandel Well, I already had a Porter Cable 690 and a Triton 3 1/4 hp for the router table. I was basing my comparisons to those. I guess time will tell, but at first blush, I'm impressed. I would agree with a statement you made in one of your videos, I think, that it a significant step up from the run of the mill Mastercraft like.
BTW, wanted to tell you for a while that you are an inspiration! I had been neglecting my woodworking shop for several years, and just recently got the motivation to return to it after watching many of your videos. Let's just say that before I lost interest in my woodworking, I got my inspiration from my subscriptions to (almost all the) woodworking magazines. I can't say for certain but there wasn't much on RUclips as far as woodworking goes. How things have changed in the last 5 to 8 years! (Yes, that's how long my shop has been mostly ignored. I have to say that showing my dogs has taken up a lot of my time that would otherwise have been spent in my shop. I'm a bit like a dog myself that way: I think I'm going to build a... SQUIRREL!!! Love all the projects with salvaged/reclaimed/repurposed materiel. We waste way too much!!!
BTW
Never would have thought of using the Skillsaw blades for resawing. Great idea!
I don't know about the quality of this router because I don't own it but it is only 180€ on TOOLSTOP CO UK
Hitachi M12VE 1/2 Inch Electronic Router
Capacity: Collet Chuck: 1/2in
Stroke: 65mm (2 - 9/16")
Power Input: 2,000W
No Load Speed: 8,000 - 22,000/min
Net weight: 5.3kg
Hope this helps,
Peter
I just bought Mastercraft Maximum Router 2hp variable speed (with FIXED and PLUNGE BASE) for 110$ this past friday (maybe still on special) @ canadian Tire. Was a random purchase wasn't planning to buy the router but was SUCH a good deal. Looks exactly like your except that theres TOOTH RAIL on the router to adjust Z axis
Great review, and in-depth look as to the likes and dislikes. Thank you!
I own quite a bit of Ridgid tools including that router I've had for the past 6 years no complaints about the performance but that is the one thing they get you on they tend to make Their tools only compatible with their accessories the best part is there's almost no universal replacement parts for their line Of tools you have to buy everything from the manufacturer or a Ridgid dealer
hi .Matthias
Love your videos, always look forward to new posts.
Just finished reading fine wood working's "MAKING AND MODIFYING MACHINES” seeing the similarity between your machines and there’s, you probably have read it, but if you haven’t it’s a great read
A lot of play in the shafts is a common issue for all hand routers, regardless of the price. Well, except something really outstanding, like Festool. When i bought mine, i tried almost everything at stores, and there was over 500$ DeWalt with horrible play (about 2mm when locked, yeah, only one shaft locks), and some under 100$ chinese one without play at all. Of course, i bought the latter.
Neither of my Bosch plunge-only ("European-style") routers I have (two different models about 100 EUR new) display any discernible play in the plunging shafts... and certainly nothing like in the video.
Matthias nice review. I was in market for router and would check it out. In past my experience with Rigid has always been good.
Interesting. I use Dewalt, Makita and Porter Cable in my shop. I have wanted to try a Ridgid. Thanks!
Absolutely, just like Radio Shack, HP, Sears, and countless other companies that change perfectly good standards into a secrete recipe that most ordinary folks cannot get around.
as always matthias clear and to the point, thanks
Hi M it would be good if the spindle locks on routers locked into place so you could hold the bit with one hand and tighten the nut with the other and not need three hands ,
G
$200 usd for a rigid router! Great price I spent $599 on a router at woodcrafters and it wasn't good at all! Great review!
Both my Hitachi and Makita routers have the separate collet reducer to go to 1/4" yours seems a bit different with a collar at the top. It could be the insert adaptor is better because you simply loosen it and it slides out (like any bit would) instead of spinning the whole collet off and reinstalling the different 1/2" collet.
It is also faster to change bits with collar like this, because at least on my hitachi it's not enough to loosen the nut, you have to undo the nut about 1,5 turns with fingers, then turn a little more with wrench to pull out the collet and free the bit.
I was going to mention that Amazon has the Porter Cable 892 (standard size, separate collets) for US$162, so you probably would have been better off ordering that online. Then I checked Amazon Canada, which charges CDN$216... So I guess that's just the cost of living in Canada. It seems a perfectly pleasant country in many other ways, though ;-)
Makita RT0700CX2J is available at the european market and has a 89 mm body. Perfect for building the pantorouter and other woodmachinery..
I got this router as a present and the only thing I hate about it is the plunger system, other than that is a great router
Agree with Norman's comment . I am going to buy this one.
Nice review. Coming from you I know I can trust the assessment. I've been considering buying a better router than I have. I may have to go this route. Ridgid has been good to me so far. Thank you.
Very informative review.
Just to clarify ... the variable speed is because you want it in your tilting router table, correct? Do you think you'd need these extra features if you were putting it in the moritser or pantorouter? Or would you then just buy the $70 Mastercraft from Canadian Tire?
When I was younger and I came across bad designs like that , I promised myself that when I became an engineer I would never do that to anybody.
Well rounded reviews with all of your vids, TY.
Matthias, couldn't you make interchangeable mounts for the tilting router lift? Make one for the smaller router and keep another for the larger router. Then if you have to switch routers for whatever reason you could just unscrew the one and screw on the other. Is that possible?
The accessories are where companies make their money. You can buy a printer with two ink cartridges for $39.00 but the ink cartridges cost $25.00 to $30.00 each.
The plunge action on the Dewalt I bought was the best I have seen, even Makita sucked big time, once they are expensive they all seem to be good. Best cheap routers imho, Dewalt
Great video as usual and very timely as I am planning on purchasing another router in the next few months.
Wow, that really is a fundamental flaw in the design. Whilst you can adjust your router lift or other jigs, this probably rules this router out as a drop-in for people's CNCs, etc.
In the Netherlands, this router is sold as the AEG MF 1400 KE for 400 euro. What did you say? It costs only 100 dollar across the pond? That's some pretty expensive shipping!
8 years later...it's still sold in Canada for the same price!
What kind of wall thickness is there on that cylinder?
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It may be possible to turn off 1/16" from each side to get it to match the standard size.
The clamping action of the split base may still work the same way.
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The down side is that with loss of material, you will lose some heat sink action.
Thanks for the review, Matthias!
by sound, it seems a little lite on power, but your cuts looked fine.
stihl and rigid are contractor companies thats why the have such great(but expensive stuff) those two brands along with klein and stanley are pretty much the only brands i use
i think it can be adjust at 1:08. Did you see the cross of both of the puncher? i saw bosch is really easy to press down.
Great review, thanks for all the info. Joe Blow is right though Ridgid warranty will cover your plunge. :)