DON’T Buy a Router Table!!! Build THIS ONE Instead
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2021
- How to build a simple router table. Every woodworker wants a good router table. Build your own! And this one works great!
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Material List:
4’ oak step 1 pc
2x4s @ 8 ft 2 pcs
15 1/4” laminate shelf @ 2 ft 1 pc
1/2” plywood 2x2’ sheet 1 pc
1 1/2” beveled screws 50 pcs
12.5”x12.5” 10ga metal plate (recommended but you can substitute plexiglass if needed)
The links below are affiliate links which I can earn money through purchases made by viewers. Please consider purchasing products through these links to support DIYMAN. I use these funds to improve my videos’ quality and quantity. Thanks for your support.
Recommended tools and hardware:
Irwin Chisel Set:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Drill/impact gun
homedepot.sjv.io/c/2347632/45...
Kreg jig R3
affiliate-program.amazon.com/...
18ga brad nailer (I recommend the set)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Table saw
homedepot.sjv.io/c/2347632/45...
Circular saw
homedepot.sjv.io/c/2347632/45...
Miter saw
homedepot.sjv.io/c/2347632/45...
Jig saw
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Sander
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
#DIYMAN #woodworking 
Хобби
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
Thanks!
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
There are usually ways around having to use special tools. It's a challenge to be creative. I look back sometimes to things I made when I had no shop, very few tools, and am amazed how useful they've been over the years and many still are in use daily. Also, don't overlook the availability of tools and help in your locality. Even smaller cities now have maker-spaces that will have the tools you need to make a project like this relatively easy, and usually at maker spaces there are people who will be glad to help. Even getting to know your neighbors (remember, we're all neighbors...they don't have to live next door) can lead to help and sharing of knowledge. Don't assume you have to do everything yourself with no outside help.
I had an _"interesting discussion"_ with Stumpy Nubbs when he made _everywoodworkers dream_ a front door for his house. I made what I considered a light hearted comment that yes all one needed was the 4 or 5 industrial machines and it was a doodle to make and then the snarky response came back. In the couple of public exchanges I thought I kept it polite and even sent a couple of emails expanding on my post but never received a reply to either of them. I did think the hilarious part of him _building his dream front door_ was at each stage of the "build" he was *not* the person operating the industrial machine. Guess he still has that dream job in his back pocket ready to run at any time.
Apologies @sweetgirl4752 as I didn't intend to write a War & Peace size piece to agree with your Comment and also say he is a talented creator. He's got a nice size workshop that my 2 x 4 foot workbench would get lost in.
It's nice seeing someone build something like this without owning a million dollars in state of the art shop tools.
Thank you!
Not quite, running Dewault and Bosch for everything…….
@@Inzyman100 Doesn't mean you buy quality u state of the art...Quality tools quality work...you know.a tradesman by the quality and condition of his tools...I use Dewalt and Bosch tools and just another DIY guys working from his backyard 🙄🙄🙄
@@Inzyman100 lol Dewalt and Bosch are definitely not super high end, top of the line tools. Compare Festools pricing with Dewalt and Bosch, you'll see what I mean.
you can use your router to make that joints lap itscalkef 👨
I’ve watched 100s of hours of makers doing stuff on RUclips. This evening marks the first time I’ve seen myself represented. Flipping love it. Keep doing what you do, and we’ll all get better together.
Thank you so much! That is the exact Goal of this channel!
Facts!!!
Thx very much! Cant wait to build this.
Its 1st time ever I get dimensions to go with a project. So many people dont realize - No Dimensions = NO USE which is a Total waste of time...
@@driesdeklerk6880 Learning is about mastering the principle and technique. Useless clutter like project specific dimensions are purposely kept out to focus on teaching technique. The difference between a woodworker and an NPC, is an NPC needs ikea instructions while a woodworker invents things based on his/her knowledge of materials, tools, science and practical applications. Of course, a quick materials list or plans in the video description or end of the video doesn't hurt.
Two recommendations. Clamp down steel when drilling to keep it from spinning if it bites. Second when making lap joints use table saw you can depth correct
Sneak up on your lap joints, don’t try to get perfect depth initially. Also, cut them completely on your drop saw as you did the initial slots, that way the chisel is just a clean up finish and less likely to go too deep. (Also, don’t hold with one hand and chisel toward your hand, one day you will bleed bad.) Put it in a vice so it’s secure and chisel across the grain. If you have the right saw blade, you won’t even need to chisel clean up.
Thanks for the tips. I appreciate it
Thanks for the tips also, I guarantee there are a lot of guys that read your tips but are too proud or whatever that they won't give you a thank you, kinda like before cell phones and GPS some guys would drive around for hours lost instead of asking someone for directions.
Bro, I seen him using that chisel toward his hand and was like oh man, that's a er visit waiting to happen.
this is the exact point where I paused the video, and I'm not watching the rest. And from what I'm reading in the other comments, this is just one mistake among others.
I have a 1 cm scar on me left thumb. The chisel did not slip of the thumb, it just hit and made a nice cut.
I've learned my lesson, I have just 1 scar from a chisel, and I'm not watching people do this.
Also, the guy has a table saw with a T Track on it, and a router. Why is he even doing this.
i was cringing the whole time he was chiseling towards his hand.. im glad you didnt hurt yourself bud
I like tis channel because he's just a regular guy who builds things the way most of us weekend woodworkers do. There aren't any $3,000, $4,000 and up machines involved like so many channels show. We also got to see every step of the build. This is a definite subscribe and like channel.
Thanks Wayne! I appreciate that!
Commenting to say your workbench is built exactly like mine. Simple 2x4 frame, 4x4 legs with a plywood slab on top. Gets the job done!
My heart skipped a few beats at 15:41! My ol' shop teacher always reminded us "NEVER chisel towards your hand!" One fellow who kind of forgot that remark ended up in emergency getting lots of stitches. Nice build though.
Lol, thanks. I’m pretty new to chisels
@@DIYMAN I was worried to. Clamp your work so that you can use two hands to control the chisel. Ask me how I know - nasty cut on LH thumb...
I thought the same thing. Also put the wood in a vise or clamp to the table, then chisel - never toward your hand!
I did the same thing when I was an apprentice, stuck it in my hand. After a little dance holding my hand off to the hospital for a few stitches.
But I still liked your router table, hope you get many happy hours of pleasure.
Me too - a well sharpened (or even relatively blunt) chisel will do untold damage to fingers/hands/knuckles/arms etc. Happens in the blink of an eye!
Important safety note! Trim routers should travel CCW on outside edges and CW on inside edges (vice versa once installed in the table upside down). This is called a push cut. Traveling in the other direction is called a climb cut and is possible under certain conditions but more dangerous. NEVER try it with a large diameter bit or a deep depth of cut!!!
I noticed that too. Wondering if there was going to be a climb cut coming. Also for a countersink with a larger bit, I reverse the drill direction as it’s cleaner and better control.
spotted that too and wondered if it is opposite in the northern hemisphere
This video showed exactly how it is in a workshop working on a project. You misplace things, your pen don't work, etc. No script. I subscribed just for this "realness" . ❤
Thanks!
I am a retired carpenter. First thing I learned in my apprenticeship was NO PENS. only pencils are used. Pens are used for signing invoices and that’s all .,
Nice work. Tip - While joining two wood pieces with screws, try using 'C' or 'F' clamps for tight grip and then action on joining.
Thank you so much! I appreciate that! I’m going to try that
you could consider installing a power surge switch on the side of the table as source for on/off power. great job on the router table saw!
Yes, I definitely want to do that in the future
I think we all learned a thing or two from this journey.
Thank you for sharing your process 🙏🏽
Thank you so much! I appreciate that
Great vid! Love how you lay it out and speak to the novice guys like me , just playing around having fun.
All your videos are simple and detailed. Thanks for sharing!!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
I like the lap joint idea. I would use the table saw and cross cut sled for those. These are all nice ideas.
Yes indeed. Nice flat cuts mean better fit and quick.
Love the video. And, consider securing your work piece. Nothing like having your drill bit get bound up and spin a sheet of steel into your... nether region.
Instead of using the miter saw to cut the lap joints and then using the Chisel, I have used the table saw with a crosscut jig to great effect. Once a few cuts are made you can cut the in between pieces, then you can move the work piece slowly sideways back and forth to cleanup the cut of the remaining bits of wood. It is fast and works really well for me.
100% table saw is my choice for lap joints. First cut the outer cuts in all pieces then go back and cut out the middle. Super easy and accurate to final fit it.
I like this build! One thing they taught me in school was to chamfer the bottom of jigs and diy fences. That way if some sawdust accumulates against the fence it goes into the chamfer instead of pushing your workpiece away from the table. For people who don't brush away every piece of sawdust I find it helped
That’s an excellent tip! Thank you!
What’s a chamfer? Do you round the edge that meets the table?
@@orangeflow9809 it’s usually just a 45° cut iirc. A round over would work, but would fill faster.
@@PureBloodWNC Ahhh cool. Thanks!
That turned out pretty nice and didn't seem too terribly hard. I think you've inspired me to make my own. And a bench that incorporates my jobsite table saw.
Thanks! Yeah, that would be fun
Beginner friendly video, explained everything and I loved it. Thank you so much my man
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching
Excellent. It enforces what I already know and do
Here's a tip on how to set the right height on a miter or table saw for the joints: Take a scrap piece and make the cut on one side, then flip it over and do it again. If the two cuts just exactly cut the piece in two, then it's exactly set to half the size of the piece.
That’s a great tip! Thank you so much! I’m going to use that
Nice job! I'm definitely considering your project to make my own Router Table. However, I would like to have a switch brought closer to the front so I wouldn't have to bend so much to cut the power on and off. I would also like to place pegs in the table for using the router for rounding. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thanks! Those are great ideas! I’d like to try something similar as well
You can buy a safety switch and mount it to the front, and simply plugging the router into that. DeWalt has that built into their router tables.
Great job. Router table came out looking like a pro. Keep up the good work, and thank you for sharing.
Thanks!
Great video. Like others said, I love the realness and relatability. Thanks for the tip about buying the step instead because it's cheaper. You've got a new subscriber and I look forward to seeing more.
First, I appreciate that you didn't speed up the video. Awesome router combo you bought...one year I saw that Popular Mechanics had it ranked no.1. About the lap joints, not that I know that much, I learnt the hard way to make the cut a tad smaller than your mark and also a tad less in depth...a snug fit is so much better and you can always use the chisel to make any slight correction. I enjoyed this video! Don't underestimate the router...it too can bite! You are going to have fun with its versatility!
Awesome! I was hoping everyone would appreciate a little bit longer video. Also, thanks for the tips! I’m definitely going to try and cut them smaller than my marks next time. Every Bosch tool I’ve used, I have been very happy with. I was really close to getting a Dewalt to match all my other tools, but I’ve heard some good things about Bosch. I think it’s going to be awesome!
I have a work bench setup similar to yours. I incorporated my router table into the bench using 1/4" plexiglass instead of the metal plate.
That’s a great idea. I like the plexiglass idea
Total novice ,presently designing my first work shop @64. I loved you straight forward video and learned a lot 👏
Thank you!
you did a very nice job. ive got respect for you showing where the lap joints might not be "perfect" i say so what it still works and you can be proud you did it. keep up the good work
Thanks Bob! I appreciate that!
Nice work! My only suggestion on half-lap joints would be to offset them where the shelf is. Have the side pieces above the front and back rails, this will allow the half-laps to do their bit to reduce racking and the shelf can be just a bench hook style that sits on top of the front and back rails, this makes it easy to change or move if needed. Also, like others have said, creep up on the cuts to their fit and before chiselling out the waste, score across the depth of the cuts to prevent the chisel from chipping out.
Thanks for the tips!
You can also use the table saw for your lap joints. You can use a stop and you won’t have to chisel.
I want to make a router sled and do that
Lucky me! I need a router table and I just happen to have a Bosch combo kit I got for Christmas last year! So I am watching this build with great interest. Thanks!
Thanks! Very helpful!
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
I recommend plugging your router in via a surge protector or something else that has a switch that you can mount to a better location on the table. Great build, thank you!
I would definitely like to do that. That’s a great idea
Definitely. EVERY table power tool needs a ready-available on-off switch for safety. Having to stop and bend over or reach under the table blind while the router bit is turning at 20,000 rpm is asking for a major injury.
I found the best way create even consistent lap joints is to first insure all your lumber is the exact thickness, even if it means running them through the thickness planer. This is especially true with pine 2x 4's from the box stores. Then as Bill B states in the comments, "sneak up" on the cuts. I enjoyed your video.
Thanks for the tips! I appreciate that!
EXCELLENT !! I've been wanting to upgrade mine. THIS IS IT !! Thanks !!
Awesome! You’re welcome!
I like this build. Simple, direct. You might think about only making one side of the fence “square”. The other can actually be rounded and a little loose. The way the fence slides easily. Often times you don’t need the fence to be square to the table because you are using a cutter with a bearing. In that case the critical layout is the height of the cutter only. You won’t even use the fence. Keeping the fence plumb to the table surface will be more critical.
Good RUclips! Thank you for sharing your creativity and your knowledge.
After watching several "how to" videos on building router tables, I think this one is the easiest to follow. He was easy to understand, and his final product is very useful and can be adjusted to make tables for many other table top tools.
Thank you!
I've tried to use the depth stop on a miter saw for similar cuts. The problem is that you have a lot more leverage at the handle compared to where the depth stop sits near the pivot point for the saw. There's enough springiness in there to go a sixteenth or so deeper than where you wanted to stop with fairly light downward pressure on the saw handle.
Nice router table.
That’s good to know. I’m going to try with the table saw soon. Thank you!
I do this all the time, with great results.
@@DIYMAN I have found that I can get more consistent results with a table saw for lap joints. People have various experience with other tools for lap joints.
Lap joints, like most techniques, just take careful manipulation of stock and practice. For your fence. close to one of the ends, drill and install a pivot pin, mostly centered, and drill a hole in the table so that only one end needs a clamp, and the fence will always be parallel to the bit so you only need minor adjustments
Thanks for the tips!
I'm doing almost exactly the same thing right now. Just about to start on building the fence. And using a hole saw for plate steel? You're a braver man than I, Gunga Din.
I like your design. I'm planning on making a new router table too. I prefer to use the table saw and a crosscut sled for lap cuts. I find it alot easier to make them nice and tight and easier to set the depth
Thanks! Yeah, I definitely need a crosscut sled. I think that will be the way to go
@@DIYMAN oh yes a cross cut sled is a amazing tool to add to your tablesaw. They help so so much. It's hard to explain or say how much the increase the precision of your cuts. But thank you for making this video. You've given me some ideas for my near future router table/cabinet.
*VERY* novice woodworker here, but my first thought on the lap joints is to use the chipped out slivers from where you originally cut them on the miter saw and cleaned up the notch with the chisel as shims. Sand them down just a tad on an angle and hammer them into the gap with wood glue. If you do go back and try it, let me know how it turns out! :)
Tim, thanks for the tip! I didn’t even think about that. I will try it next time. I’ve never really done lap joints, so I need all the help I can get. Lol.
Yeah, hindsight's always 20/20. Years ago, I used the miter saw to cut the lap joints and the chisel to finish them just like he did. The second I set the joint together I realized what you said. I needed to cut just a hair shy and clean everything out with the miter and use the chisel to make any minor adjustments necessary. Been doing it that way ever since.
@@adamlucas4753 I would use a dado blade on my table saw. This way you get uniform repetitive results, same depth with each pass with no chisel work. And it's fast.
@@thomasmolnar1569 First, it doesn't solve the specific issue, which is lateral space and not depth. Second, you've added the cost of a dado stack and time of a blade switch to the project. Lastly, It's a shop router table, not a China cabinet for the dining room.
@@adamlucas4753 He doesn't need a dado,the blade he has in there would do just fine and be much quicker than the miter and then side to side to clean up.Then you still use the chisel but it's just to clean up for exact fit....It'll cut the time to do those at least in half.
Nothing like RUclips, 95% hacks 3% who know something and 2% pros.I get tired of thinking I'm going to see something from a 2%'er......and maybe get a idea I can modify,but no it's mostly hacks like this dude.
Want a good channel to watch for the real down to earth woodworking and DIY shop tools like this that also know wth they're doing,look for Izzy Swan.
Great work! I really enjoyed watching you build this router table. Persistence yields results. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I appreciate that!
Great video from a great teacher! Thanks.
Thank you!
You should try and keep the rpm’s low when drilling on metal. If you go to fast you will destroy your bits. Also, clamps would help to prevent the plate from shifting once you make that initial break through the bottom side of the plate
I agree, he's really brutal on those poor drillbits. Oil, low RPM and patience is good when drilling metal, especially steel.
Håkon T. Consistently brutal
Not to mention a better holding jig than his abdomen. Good way to cut yourself wide open!
AND WD-40 is not heavy enough to use as a cutting oil. 3-in-1 is a much better option, or even some old engine oil is better than WD-40
I'm also a fan of lap joints. I do them on a table saw.
Saves time 'cause you can clean the surface without all the chiselling.
Better to cut just shy of your measurement and then creep up on it.
Make sure the riving knife is the same height as the blade.
A circular saw also does the job if there is no table saw available.
I do like the way the fence locks , nice job DIY for all.
Thanks!
i love that you have shown the imperfections of your build. too many videos make the average guy feel they are no good at woodwork Kudos to you........ keep it up.!
Thank you so much! I appreciate that!
I enjoyed your video, I like your design. Please consider getting the trip hazards off your floor, cords etc. you should clean your work area especially where the work top where you are working. An organized and clean work area will help you avoid accidents and find things easier. Someone did mention about cutting towards yourself and not clamping your work when drilling, soo clamp your stabilize your work piece to avoid slippage. You do have an enjoyable video. Don’t take safety advice harshly, we have all had an oops a time or two. Stay safe. And keep sharing your woodworking videos, thanks, stay safe.
Thanks Howard! I know I need to clean up some of these hazards laying around. I hope to start doing a lot of that very soon!
Thanks so much for sharing!!
You’re welcome!
Excellent
Just a thought, add a vacuum port to the fence. A build up of sawdust on the router table can throw off depth of cut, and excess sawdust falling directly on your router motor can severely shorten its life.
Thanks for the tip! I would really like to do that
nice build. I added a dust port to the one I built and it really helps with dust collection!
I'll second that!. I added a dust port to my shop built router table fence and for edge routing it almost completely eliminates the dust. I connect directly to my shop vac and that gives me a gale-force wind through the throat in the fence. Sadly it doesn't work when machining a groove or a dado...that would require me to make the sides and bottom airtight and add a port below the table top. As for the half-lap joinery, mark only one side of the cut and widen it close to, but not wider than the piece that will fit into it. Lay the joint together and hold it tight by hand, then mark the opposite line with a knife rather than a pencil. Finish your cut with a very sharp chisel and with a little practice you'll get the perfect fit you're looking for. It's a little more work than machine cutting everything but the fit is worth the effort. Also, if you happen to own a router plane (and most DIYers don't) there's no better way to get a perfectly flat bottomed dado to a precisely controlled depth (you could do it with a router if you can hold it firmly enough).
@@DIYMAN good job to your job tjoday iuiiiii
Reversing the large drill bit is often better when using it for counter-sinking. It stops tear out and it going too deep. I noticed a chunk out of your hand. You tend to put your body (hands) in front of the motion of the chisel. I noticed you have the skill for sharpening chisels well. A well sharpened chisel cuts nicely and avoids accidents. But I would prefer not to see your body in front of a chisel. I know making videos is not easy, and it's easy to rush things and take shortcuts. I'm impressed with the clean chisel work.
For the stretcher supports in the middle, you asked about ideas. I would screw the stretcher just from the outside where you put two screws. I would make them long and they would go through all three pieces of wood. I liked the idea of trying to strengthen the partical board with glue. Impressed with your straight cuts on sheet metal & your metal work. Some great ideas in this build. Thanks.
Thank you so much for the tips! I appreciate them. I’m still learning on the chisels. I’ve definitely learned a lot already
I did cringe each time you pushed the chisel toward your hand. Your chisels are sharp - one slip can cut deep and long.
Love it my build my table table almost the same with 1/2 " plexiglass
Thanks! I’m eventually going to make a new one since I’m moving and couldn’t take this one with me. I will definitely mention that
Nice job 👍
Really enjoyed this, thank you. It was great to see a DIY project under more realistic circumstances, other than a perfect shop with tens of thousands of dollars in kit. But, please be careful with your H&S! I was getting really worried in some parts watching you use a chisel towards your hand on an unsecured surface. And, even if you don’t have dust extraction (like many of us don’t) please use a mask. I’d hate for you to get injured. 👍
lap joints are easier with a dado blade stack, you can get them super tight and there isn't any chisel work
another good tip if you are using your miter saw to do them though. Make sure to slide the blade in and out, so the valley of the cut is straight instead of an arc. This will help your lap joints more repeatable.
I definitely need to snag a dado stack! Thanks for the tips!
I was thinking the very same thing, you just beat me to saying it. Lol
@@DIYMAN If you get the dado stack, you'll not regret it. I have one but I will sometimes use the same method you did if I don't have that many laps to cut. As Zachery pointed out, make use of the slide on your miter saw. You can even slide your stock side to side along with the back and forth of the saw to remove all of the chips and get a pretty clean cut.
Nice and simple. I will try this one. Thank you for the video.
You’re welcome!
Awesome job and really simple. Thanks.
Thank you!
Thanks for the effort, looks a fun build which I'll be doing soon too. My 2c... Doing the recess for the screws with the big drill bits comes out cleaners if running drill in reverse. Lap joints beat me last time I did and the learning was stable accurate cuts and sneak up on the final depth. You can always cut more out but it's hella hard shimming it back up 😁
No problem! Thanks for watching! Yeah, these were definitely a lesson learned lol
Use the router to make the lap joints.
Yes! Exactly! I discovered that trick of reversing the drill direction by "accident" a long time ago and have done it ever since.
You always want to cut your table deeper than the plate. Having the plate lower, then put set screws along the shoulder to set the plate flush. This is more precise and when you lift the plate and dust falls on the shoulder, it won't hinder your setting.
You Never want either side sitting proud. They need to both be flush.
Great tip. Thank you
Loud n clear , thank you for sharing , i will definitely do the one from yrs tutorial 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for watching!
Great job
Thanks!
PS. Using a dado gage makes the joint cutting very precise, and if you're going to sand the parts do it before assembly. You can clamp all the pieces together and sand them as one piece.
Thanks for the tips!
@@DIYMAN and BTW, this was a great build video. And I wish I had a shop like yours I have to move vehicles out of the garage to do anything but change a lightbulb.
I've gone through a lot of hole saws trying to drill metal at drill speed. I found that slowing way down will cut better and faster and save the bit.
As well, spend the extra nickel and get Bi-Metal blades! And slow them down. And use cutting oil.
this is pretty cool. thx for uploading
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Start shallow and sneak up on the depth of cut for the half-lap joints. Also, screws for the oak to the sides, front and back are overkill. Drilling through the frame and then mounting the top with screws from below will leave a much cleaner work surface. Finish your project! Varnish will make everything last longer and make it pretty, too!
Sneaking up on it is a good way to put it. I always use a couple scrap blocks to get my depth just right. And I make a conscious effort to make sure my lines are still visible. For that kind of job, a radial arm saw is VERY handy. I don't have to bother with a chisel, and my surfaces are perfectly level.
Might have been easier to get depth by using a miter guide and your table saw. Then you could set the fence for maximum cut width, and simply cut both ends of the center cuts, and the same with the end cuts. Depth would have been easier to set also. Might have been easier to clean out the miters afterwards also.
Yes, I think you’re right. I would like to make a crosscut sled at some point to start making my joins with the table saw easier
I love the videos and you are a talented man thank you so very much..
Thanks Gary!
Thanks for sharing this build, great work 😊
Thanks!
On your lap joints ... If you space off the fence with a wood spacer ...orient the dead center of your sawblade to pass through entire width of the piece you are lapping. Using the slide function of your miter saw. you wont have to chisel out so much giving a cleaner smoother lap joint. This of course using the depth stop on your saw at whatever depth lap you are doing. minor chisel work and fine file and sandpaper gives a great joint. BTW always chisel away from yourself with the work clamped. all in MHO. great job
Thanks for the tips! I appreciate that
Agreed definitely the way to go (or a dado stack)...that and use a flat top blade (not a combo). It'll give you a flat bottom.
When you were marking your lines for your plate you can use a combination square to mark that inner line instead of using a measuring tape.It's far more accurate and sometimes saves time.I have over 20yrs of welding experience and I learned this trick from a fitter welder.
I need to learn this trick. I’ll look online and see how to do that
@@DIYMAN just set your combination square at the dimension that you want then put your pencil or whatever you are marking with on the end of the ruler but if it's a long line that you want to make you can slide your combination square along the edge of your piece.
Hi DIY-MAN,
I just came across your video today 24th May 2023, and liked how you built a router table.
I am thinking of getting a router myself at some point, and your table design would be a great addition to compliment the router. Thank you for showing every stage of the process. It is fairly easy to follow your instructions. In order for me to follow your video on this subject, I have subscribed to your channel for future reference. Thank you so much DIY Man.
You’re welcome! Thank you so much for watching!
That is grate my friend
👍🇺🇸.
Cool job. Table turned out fine. Looks nice.
Thank you!
great job !
Thanks!
Job well done 👍.
Thanks!
Enjoyed the video. Very cool build and you are very methodical in your approach! Well done!
Thank you so much!
Nice job, thanks.
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Great job and good luck with the new router table!
Thanks!
Awesome video Great work
Thanks!
Well done mate great job 👍
Thanks!
Great build. Thanks for sharing!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Lol I found this exact same bosch router set in the trash, works perfectly... people throw away the greatest stuff. Now i'm going to build a table for it, thanks! The vertical toggle clamp looks like a great solution for the fence.
Really nice project. Thanks for sharing it. If the table isn't quite as stable as you'd like, you might stiffen the back side and possible even the back side of the sides with a couple of plywood gussets at the top. If I do this, I'd also add a dust collection port on the back of the fence.
Great video very useful
Thanks!
Really Great Job! Thanks!
Thank you!
@@DIYMAN Finally i finished my router table :) , 55cmx30cm and 40cm height, really very handy, i work these days with it, it's really amazing what abilities this small baby has (i need to practice more, true). I have technical background but your video gave me a good inspiration to make a handy and accurate great tool with almost zero cost. Thanks!
Awesome! So glad you found this useful. Thanks for letting me know!
The easiest way to find the center is by going from corner to corner and the intersection is the center of the plate. Since the Bosch router has four retaining screws you can use the lines and screw holes to center the circular hole in the plastic base and the steel plate. I purchased a 9 gauge square stainless steel plate from Amazon; no painting needed. My table top is two 24X48 plywood pieces sanded on all sides. These I glued together. To stiffen the table top I usually use 1X4 pine glued and screwed to the table top 3 inches in from the edges. This time I used 1X3 without any knots. Screws were counter sunk into the plywood on 4 inch centers. I filled the counter sunk holes and sanded the surface smooth. I followed the instructions for setting the plate into the top also accounting for the thickness of the Formica top. I made the hole and cut the Formica and wood for the steel plate to fit flush. I made sure to counter sink all of the holes. The holes in the steel plate were #10-1/2 inch wood screws. I used the remaining instructions except for the legs. Legs can be made from 1X4 or 1X3 by gluing and screwing an edge to the face edge of the opposing board. This forms an 'L' shape that makes an attractive and very strong leg. It also makes it very easy to install in the corner of the apron that is 3 inches in from the edges of the top. You can miter the corners or form a right angle at each corner. For this table I added a square of 2X4 in each corner with threaded inserts in the 2X4 so that I could use machine screws to attach the legs. If you want to add a shelf glue and screw some additional 2X4 squares in the leg corners to rest the plywood or glued strip board upon. Make sure you leave adequate space between the router and the shelf so you can remove the router easily.
Enjoyed that, thanks. I too like to see someone making cool stuff to save money. That's a solid router table. Well done.
Thanks!
Good job
Thanks!
Nice job, the more ideas you dream up, the more little bits of wisdom you will acquire. Keep building, and God bless!
Thank you!
Pune mekanike
Spetacular idea!! Good work!
Thank you so much!
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
Your building a shop tool. It does not have to be perfect, just functional. Also Bill B's recommendations are spot on. Great project. Good Job.
So true! Thanks!
Nice build!
Thanks!
Watching from Phillippines🇵🇭 thanks for the idea👍👍👍
Awesome! Thanks for watching!