If you can find it, I use Ma Deuce lube, 0-158 LSA Weapons Oil. MIL-L-46000B. MilSpec stuff from Nam era. Run it as hot as you want, or need, and it hangs with you.
In my past experience, a wet gun gets gummed up quicker. I will admit primers and powders have become much cleaner since the 80's. Just my 2 cents. Thank you for the tips...
Heres an exellent video on how to lube your AR! You should watch since you have no clue. And I will send your link to Don Shipley because you are not a seal. A seal would know how to lube! ruclips.net/video/Wvrnudcld1c/видео.html
Unfortunately, I completely agree with you... I was being optimistic, trying to re-watch the video. Maybe I just missed what he was showing? Nope. Can't see anything.
@@elultimo102curiousity and seeing how others do it. Have you not watched a video or two on here about something you already know but just enjoy seeing nonetheless?
@@Cakesadamant ---"Littlejp6090" said you should know your AR. What if you're a new owner, without a manual? I would have liked an arrow or a closeup of the oiler, to indicate the precise points to be lubed.
I've be working the AR platform system for a better part of 30 years and lubing the gas ports. I have never experienced problems due to having too much lube on the BCG. Dry and dirty = bad, wet and dirty = not bad, wet and clean = best....I've used Mobil 1 and Crown Purple synthetic oil for years on select fire ARs and have had great success.
@@jonathanaldana4941 I don't know what he recommends but I use any synthetic automotive oil, 20w seems to "hang on" or stay put the best with out being to thick..
I make my own oil from an oil base and additives. Best I have found to lube guns as I added a 'wetting agent' to make the oil creep and cling. I always hated oiling the trigger pins and finding my oil outside the receiver. My oil fixed that.
Really appreciate you taking the time to share this. It would great if you could include a pointer or arrow on the stills so we can see exactly where the oil should go. Thank you again!
I really appreciate a short, concise video that shows something useful like this. I pass on the 20 min videos on the same subject (and most subjects for that matter). Unfortunately, I’m a noob, I really needed to see exactly where the drops hit, so in the end, it didn’t help me (at least at this time), Thanks for the content though
Understood, this video was produced over a decade ago in an adhoc manner. We might update the video when we have a chance. Thanks and welcome to the community.
I don’t understand how putting oil in the gas port does anything. Putting the oil on the “neck” of the bolt right behind the chamber locking lugs is good but what was missed was putting lube on the cam pin and then applying some lube to the 4 “rails” that surround the bolt.
Proper way to lube AR: 1. Pull out BCG 2. drop bcg in bucket of motor oil 3. Shake bcg once to remove excess 4. Put bcg back in gun. 5. Have faith that you are properly lubed.
Motor oil isn’t flammable like gas. Doesn’t mean you can’t light it on fire, but it’s not that easy. (At least I don’t think it is, and I’m an expert. That means you have to listen to what I say)
@@BigMackM27- In the early 70s with the 101st at Campbell, we used the 5W30 [ND - no detergent] on the M-60 MGs and they fed belted rounds through like a champ, plus it made clean-up easier even after running multiple hundreds of blanks rounds thru for exercises. Now the barrels were a different matter, so we broke down the guns and put them through a parts washer we acquired [don't ask about that] with clean solvent to cut the fouling gunpowder loose to clean the barrels, gas pistons and chambers. Mstrdiver - US Army 1973 to 1995
Thanks for the lube update. I've always just used CLP because that's what we used in the Marines and it always worked. Then I caught myself getting a nickel boron bolt carrier group which we never used and I realized that there are definitely upgrades to what I used 25 years ago LOL.
Hey man, dumb civvie here: CLP is the shit! My Navy cousins put me onto CLP over a decade ago. I've tried a few others, personally can't see much difference between Slip and Break-Free in terms of film strength or overall performance, but CLP outperformed everything except Clenzoil in ProjectFarm's CLP lubricity test (video link: ruclips.net/video/fibRewlndLg/видео.html ). Ballistol is another CLP with a military background but it did really poorly in PF's tests. I note it starts out too thin yet separates/gets chunky in the cold. Also doesn't seem to be as alkaline as they claim, not prevent rust in the bore of my flintlock which had already been cleaned with boiling water. Especially with slick nickel-coated parts, I'd say regular old CLP is _still_ an excellent choice for your AR and would definitely recommend substantive research before switching. Semper Fidelis!
@@AtlasJotun Thanks for the feedback! It's funny but I just never switched. It's like you said: worked in the sandbox, works in the freezing cold. I figured there was always something new and more advanced out there but I was too lazy to research it. Lol kinda like optics...I'm hell on wheels with the iron sights, then I finally gave in to the red dot/holographic and now I'm getting LPVOs haha.
@@andrewcarlson2178 I got old, eyes got bad, switched from iron to red dot a few years back, just ordered an LPVO earlier today, needed something to bring those 100yd targets into focus. Age catches us all eventually.
No way man. Laser pointer. It’s 2023 brother! Haha But I do agree with you on wanting to see the points. I wasn’t following the logic of the oil in front of the gas tube, and most of this video frankly? But I’m willing to listen and learn.
Brownells advises against these oiling techniques. They are not oil holes, they are gas release holes. Oil is for friction points of metal components that continuously interact with each other.
you could take your bolt out, oil it, put it back in, and it would be the same result as just dropping oil in those holes. you wan't those surfaces coated so carbon doesn't build up as much, and blows out those holes!
As a master armored w/40 years experience as well a disabled army veteran with 12 of my 18 years service as a unit armorer. - that said, the type and amount of lube depends on the environment and weather.... Desert and -50 below are not the same and should not be treated the same. A good example is extreme cold. You want to test your lube to see if it thickens or freezes the bolt shut. Typically we would take a clean dry cloth and wipe the carrier and inner parts to remove any excess oil. Note: the bolt is impregnated with oil already for storage so even after wiping it down, it still has proper lubrication. I could write a book on the topic including the real pro tips on lubrication and cleaning but it would take up too much space here
Start a channel man with your phone. Lots of experience in many areas it seems, we need new people in the community with real life application experience
My philosophy with guns is this. You should only run your gun dry or with the best dry lube you can get if you’re in a dusty/sandy environment but if you’re not in either one of those environments, use the best Lubicant and grease that you can find and apply them to their most effective areas. Some guns need more grease than oil because there’s more stress bearing components than others. The Lubricant that I use is SuperLube and I use both their oil and grease, it’s oderless, colorless and it has a great film strength that protects your weapon from wear. I’ve experimented with lubricant’s for years and I’ve personally modified the Lubricant by adding a small ceramic additive and so far, it works well!
slip 2000 is an amazing lubricant, I bought it randomly one time just trying out different lubes, and I haven't seen my AR run so well ever highly recommend
Thanks for the comment and welcome to the community. Can appreciate your concerns as a new owner. Please send us an email to admin@tridentconcepts.com and we will be happy to go over it in detail with you. Stay safe.
So how does lube end up getting to the rails that the BCG rides on? All I see happening on a DI system is the oil being blown out of the gas ports the first time the weapon is fired - the bolt itself is lubed well enough the way you showed, but that bolt carrier is running dry. When I was overseas, our team commander uhhh, procured, a can of graphite powder. I used it in place of CLP on my 203, and it worked like a charm! Being a dry lube, it didn't attract dust or sand. And being in a dry desert environment I didn't have to worry about rust that the CLP would've been needed for. Might've actually NEEDED to clean/relube maybe twice a month.
Agree on lube amount. We tried (yuma desert w/160 M-16s) no lube, light lube, moderate lube, and heavy lube. We initially thought that no or light lube would be best in that sandy, dusty environment, but when the smoke, cleared heavy lube was decidedly the best.
The only other thing I would suggest is to add a small amount of synthetic grease to the area where the cam pin comes into contact with the bolt. Why are you lubing the top of the charging handle?
Why are you putting oil in the gas port? All that’s going to happen is it’s going to get blown out as soon as you fire the weapon. Can you please explain how this helps? What am I missing? Also, why no oil on the actual rail/track that the BCG travels on? The metal on metal that is actually making contact? I’m having a hard time understanding your logic here. I’m certainly not saying you’re wrong. But I would definitely appreciate some clarification given this is essentially going against everything I know about lubing my AR?
Weapons maintenance is one of my favorite things to do. To oil mine, I actually take the weapon apart and lightly oil the bcg, bolt, firing pin, charging handle, slide slots, trigger group, buffer, and buffer spring. I also oil the barrel, dust cover spring, and sides of my rifle. Good for over 2,000 rounds until cleaning again. I use CLP, and it works great. I heard Frog Lube is good to!
I do the same thing just as a habit to prevent rust if i dont go shooting for awhile and its down in the basement safe. Have the moisture absorbers also but definitely coat them all in oil and just wipe away excess
Frog lube is great in warm weather. I live in North Dakota and found that when the temps drop below freezing I get malfunctions that don’t appear when I use Slip 2000 in my DI AR as well as my pistols. I now use Slip all the time.
New subscriber. Like your videos. I attempt to learn some of what you've graciously provided in terms of firearms handling, so thanks much! I read the 13 years of comments. You're quite patient with your commenters.
I seen people actually dump the metal/steel parts in a bucket of motorkote, the crazy part was it actually made the components water proof for a long damn time not to mention lubed as hell..
Thanks for clarifying this. My AR is my first 'black gun' and I found myself taken aback by the numerous vids getting almost dental pick and magnifying-monocle level of detail for dis-assembly, cleaning and lubing, and then there are the folks on AR forums.. I kept asking myself..."Battle rifle no?..and they've gone to war for 40yrs with such a drama queen?"(proven tho it plainly is) I mean to take very good care of it but glad to know it doesnt 'require' attention akin to an italian supercar.
Great video, concise explanation. Glad to know I’ve been doing it correctly the whole time. Sorry that there are so many goofball noobs in the comments that don’t understand simple concepts, or understand rifle parts.
Retied Marine , you can oil using this method for break in 150-250 rounds. Then each time you clean your rifle , look at you bolt carefully and inside your upper receiver. everywhere you see wear " shiny spots" oil those areas . Because that is where your bolt makes contact, using a q tip lightly oil the back side of the locking lugs for good bolt unlocking/ timing when firing. In very hot climates like where I live in Florida, Arizona ect. I use a thin grease because the heat can cause much of the oil to flow off the bolt with high heat and gravity . Just food for thought.
slip 2000 is pretty good stuff. one one my buddies in my platoon was sent a box of the stuff when i was in iraq about 5 years ago. works real great with DI gas system. no one that used this lube experienced any malfunctions (besides faulty magazines) at all. since ive been out of active duty ive been using tetra gun grease on most of my personal firearms including my gas piston operated ar's, m1a's, and all of my pistols. both of these lubes are great and are recommended from my experience.
Sorry about the camera angle, the video was shot over 10 years ago ;-) We have thought about doing an updated video when time permits. Thanks for the message.
@Chris090883 Actually using things like synthetic oil and wheel bearing grease have been used by more shooters than you may think. There's nothing wrong with using it. The synthetic oil works great to deal with the heat generated by the gases.
Bullshit...he has no clue how to lube and neither do you...but what do you expect from a flyboy watching a salvation army reject who doesn't know crap about guns.
Field strip it, disassemble the BCG, inspect and clean all parts for cracks, fissures, wear, oil wear points and rails on the carrier, run a rope cleaner down the barrel, reassemble it. How about that?🎉
When you are showing where to apply oil, you give a frame shot without pointing out exactly where it goes (you just talk about it without pointing out where you are talking about), then you cut to a side angle shot and you can't see where EXACTLY you are applying the oil.
Thanks for posting this sir!!! I started oiling my rilfe this way last November when I first saw this video. Works like a charm, in fact I just completed a EAG class with Uncle Pat in St.Augustine this last weekend. We went through just over 1500 rounds each in 3 days. I oiled up my carbine each morning before our morning brief, and I had no problems whatsoever. I have around 6000 rounds through this upper without cleaning, just lube every 500-600 rounds!! Thanks again!!!
Nice job Shipmate! Carry on! It is hilarious to me as to the number of commenters .....who fancy themselves as (self anointed) experts.....and who have minimal, or no, training / expertise! Two topics (among hundreds) that always bring out those wannabe geniuses are: 1. lubrication in the gun community and 2. anchors in the sailing community.
For whatever reason gun cleaning methods are so debated in the gun world. I always took a more detailed approach to cleaning my guns. I do more than your typical field strip usually and clean after I shoot every-time no matter how little or much rounds I put through the gun. I know I don’t have to clean my m4 as much as I do. I know my particular one can run probably 800-1000 rounds before it needs real attention. I clean it anyways. I do this for one reason. It’s better for your guns to be clean than dirty.
I have an AR with over 15k through it that hasn't been cleaned in 10 years. 😂 I just wipe mobile 1 on the bcg time to time. It still shoots the same old 2moa groups, and still runs just fine. I've just been torture testing it for years.
Use high temperature bearing grease from local car parts store. Carbon wipes right off, no scraping. Machine gun, rifle, pistol stays lubricated for thousands of rounds. Won't matter if dust, sand, dirt.
Yup. THE expedient way especially in the field. Drop and go! After breakdown, good cleaning and during reassembly, a complete lube of the BCG and CH is evenly applied with a gloved hand and a Q-Tip. If you really want to spoil these babies (at base or home), use a small detailing brush on the BCG & CH. I use a shaving brush (horse hair). Works great on pistol slide rails and barrel lugs. A super light coat on blued guns too. Just put a couple drops on the brush, massage it into the brush with your fingers, and start painting. Lol. If you drop too much on the brush, dab the brush on a spare microfiber cloth and use the cloth for later. Just ziplock it. Applies so evenly and brush lasts forever. But on the fly, you guys got it right! Keep up the great work, folks.
I don’t think you’re supposed to put it in the gas port. The gun doesn’t move the charging handle when it cycles, don’t lube the top of that handle. You want lube on the exterior of the BCG wherever it rubs on the upper, and on the bolt where it rubs inside the BCG. Use any synthetic high heat motor oil. No problems 😊
I hope this is for while out in the field under extreme use like during combat or maybe during a class where there's little to no time to properly break the rifle apart and clean/lube. Any other reason and it's just encouraging bad habits. It's super easy to field strip, clean and lube an AR. For any new users don't let the thought of care and maintenance scare you like it did me when I first started. Once you get through it for the first time then it's a cakewalk from then on out!
While those are good conditions to apply the lube, this method will work regardless. This method also does not create any bad habits, it is just a simple and easy method to care for your rifle.
The purpose of this method is two reasons! First and most importantly is so you don’t loose any parts to your weapon as you don’t know when the enemy is going to come charging in during battlefield operations! Lastly I think it may have to do with zero of your optics! Bang them around while you disassemble your weapon. Some even take them off and try to put them in the same spots when done. Some optics are way better at holding zeros than others but why take the chance?
All the people saying he didn’t show anything…..you obviously don’t train and learn your AR platform tool enough maybe take some classes if your that ignorant…13 years later good video
I use motor oil one bottle last years if you have more then 1 gun maybe less. But motor oil works good last long time probly better then any quality gun oil out there you just get a big bottle for 5$ vs. 10-30$ for a lil over a quarter of the 5$ bottle.
A friend of mine lubed his AK with cheap lube and left it in his safe. Two years later he took his AK and went shooting, completely forgetting the fact that it was stored away for 2 years. The AK was dry. He shot over 400 rounds with it, 0 issues. When he came home he saw minor metal filing on the rails and piston. Stupid mistake for sure but shows you the reliability of AK.
Thank god there are better informed people on the internet, cause if this were the only "how to" vid on this subject, there'd be a LOT of busted AR's out there...
Good video. I know nothing about the lube that he's using. I will check it out. I've been using ATF for years. It lasts a very long time. It's tolerance for heat is unquestionable and I can but it by the Qt at a very reasonable cost.
You cannot put oil in those 2 gas ports , because it will blow hot air and burn up the oil , it doesn't help , the first round will blow anything outta those holes, not even grease would do any good .
I've used both slip2000 and Frog Lube, and Frog lube won my heart. After the initial treatment Frog Lube recommends, I did a test. After I taught a few classes, I had fired over 2600 rounds b4 lubing or opening up my rig. No malfunctions during. The bolt pretty much wiped clean, and everything was still slicker than snot on a door nob. Slip2000 is good, but my opinion Frog Lube is the best thing to have come along in a while as far as lube.
Facts once I heard of frog lube around 2010 tried it and never went back. When I enlisted in the US Army and became and 11B brought it with me to use instead of the clp they tried to give me lol they wondered how my rifle was so easily cleaned after ranges Ect. Never told them I didn’t use their shit. Also I you can eat it and it won’t fuck you up might upset the stomach a little but don’t ask how I know lol
I have had bad results with frog lube in rain and freezing weather. That's just me. Not calling out the product. The conditions could have screwed up alot of lubes?
Call me a grumpy old man as I enjoy my Mini 14, old school style. Two-three MOA, total reliability, light (even with an AR 'dot' scope mounted), short barrel for close spaces.
I have been playing with guns since the 60's and all we really used was 3n1 oil. I have a box of lubes next to my box of holsters. Now I clean with Ed's Red and lube with Mobil 1 or syn. ATF and a good grade of grease you can buy in any automotive dept. What I am seeing is good marketing and way overthinking. If you want to play with the lubes, by all means do it, but you really don't need to. And if you want to ask enough qualified people about how much lube to use, it runs from dry to dripping.
We are all a product of our own thinking and experiences. If you are happy with your system, good for you. After removing poor quality firearms, magazines and ammunition from the equation the majority of malfunctions we see in classes are due to poor lubricant and not knowing where to apply the lubricant. I have been in austere conditions where we outran our supply chain. It taught me to consider alternatives to what I prefer to use and I used everything from motor oil to Vaseline. The only reason we recommend this product is because it was tested on our machine guns, extreme heat and pressure. Then we took a year to use it exclusively in our classes. Our students participated in the test by following instructions prior to the class then instructions for lubricating during the class. In that time period, we documented over 100k rounds fired. When the protocol was followed with quality firearms, ammunition and magazines the only errors we experienced we operator induced. But you go on with your bad self...
I have never seen anyone lube their AR this way. Thanks, but I will keep doing it the way I have been taught. AR rifles fail for two reasons. Bad magazines and improperly lubrication.
@@TridentConcepts To each their own I suppose. This video, however, is the only one out of dozens I have seen that recommends this technique. The manufacturers don't even recommend what is portrayed here.
@@johnraba8669 keep in mind, this is a quick field expedient way to get a little oil inside your bcg which you can’t quickly do any other way. ruclips.net/video/f5hYYy-OkCg/видео.html Here’s one. John’s pretty legit...
I learned something new today. This something that was not taught while I was in the Marines. I will put this information to use on weapons. Thanks a bunch.
@@TridentConcepts My apologies. I would say it was my TBI, but my lack of attention to detail is my error. It is Combative Fundamentals An Unconventional Approach
This video was produced for our students coming to training class to prepare them for the high rounds to keep their rifles on the line. But thanks for stopping by
How’s the company doing? I remember back when this rifle came out a buddy who’s dad was a Recon Marine had one and taught me some thing about shooting before I went in the Army and boy oh boy was it a great running rifle brings back memories
Why not just take the bolt carrier group and charging handle out so you can properly lube them? It only takes 10 seconds.....that way you can put a little oil on your thumb and lube the buffer tube as well.
Why bother, he's not.cleaning it he just oild the bcg and receiver at the same time. oil is gonna get into the buffer tube anyways when the bolt is back and if the gun is.standing on the butt like in a.safe the buffer tube collects oil.
Completely agree. Unless I'm in the fight of my life after going through so many rounds that my properly cleaned and lubed gun actually needs more lube then I see no reason why to not properly care for the rifle. It's so damn quick and easy.
ruclips.net/video/6l6B_PYmrLY/видео.html
If you can find it, I use Ma Deuce lube, 0-158 LSA Weapons Oil. MIL-L-46000B.
MilSpec stuff from Nam era. Run it as hot as you want, or need, and it hangs with you.
In my past experience, a wet gun gets gummed up quicker. I will admit primers and powders have become much cleaner since the 80's. Just my 2 cents. Thank you for the tips...
Because he clearly states where to put the oil, and if you don’t know the terms he’s using, maybe you should get a paintball gun instead. 🤷♂️
Heres an exellent video on how to lube your AR! You should watch since you have no clue. And I will send your link to Don Shipley because you are not a seal. A seal would know how to lube! ruclips.net/video/Wvrnudcld1c/видео.html
I love how he shows everything without showing anything.
Unfortunately, I completely agree with you... I was being optimistic, trying to re-watch the video. Maybe I just missed what he was showing?
Nope. Can't see anything.
Exactly!
I seen everything perfectly and actually lubricant mine the same way. 🤷♂️
Great camera work 😂 at least he’s given us a good idea …… just grease the ish out dat tang
Basically, make it juicy
The 'still' shots would be 1000x more useful if you included an arrow on the area where the drop should be placed
true that amigo !!!😊
not very hard to figure it out. if you own an AR you should know the AR
@@littlejp6090 If that's the case, why do you need to watch the video?
@@elultimo102curiousity and seeing how others do it. Have you not watched a video or two on here about something you already know but just enjoy seeing nonetheless?
@@Cakesadamant ---"Littlejp6090" said you should know your AR. What if you're a new owner, without a manual? I would have liked an arrow or a closeup of the oiler, to indicate the precise points to be lubed.
I've be working the AR platform system for a better part of 30 years and lubing the gas ports. I have never experienced problems due to having too much lube on the BCG. Dry and dirty = bad, wet and dirty = not bad, wet and clean = best....I've used Mobil 1 and Crown Purple synthetic oil for years on select fire ARs and have had great success.
What grade do you recommend for the crown purple oil?
@@jonathanaldana4941
I don't know what he recommends but I use any synthetic automotive oil, 20w seems to "hang on" or stay put the best with out being to thick..
@@jonathanaldana4941use whatever oil comes off your dipstick.
Doesn’t matter
I make my own oil from an oil base and additives.
Best I have found to lube guns as I added a 'wetting agent' to make the oil creep and cling. I always hated oiling the trigger pins and finding my oil outside the receiver.
My oil fixed that.
@@simonize251
Right! If it will run your engine, it will run your gun and do it for less.
Really appreciate you taking the time to share this. It would great if you could include a pointer or arrow on the stills so we can see exactly where the oil should go. Thank you again!
Honestly, anywhere metal rubs against metal is where lube needs to go. Pretty simple yet a lot of people try to overcomplicate it
Good grief, you people really need your hands held don’t you. If you don’t know what a Gasport is, then, maybe you don’t understand a rifle.
I really appreciate a short, concise video that shows something useful like this. I pass on the 20 min videos on the same subject (and most subjects for that matter). Unfortunately, I’m a noob, I really needed to see exactly where the drops hit, so in the end, it didn’t help me (at least at this time),
Thanks for the content though
Understood, this video was produced over a decade ago in an adhoc manner. We might update the video when we have a chance. Thanks and welcome to the community.
I share the same sentiment. Odd that this video is showing up in our feeds despite being so old...
Yeah when the Copyright came up with 2010 I had to look at the video date and saw 13y 😮
@@JimEdmistonodd indeed. I’ve never seen or heard of this channel before, yet here it was in the top of my feed when I opened RUclips.
@@TridentConceptsYes, please make an updated video on this subject.
I don’t understand how putting oil in the gas port does anything. Putting the oil on the “neck” of the bolt right behind the chamber locking lugs is good but what was missed was putting lube on the cam pin and then applying some lube to the 4 “rails” that surround the bolt.
This was a field lube application demonstration
Proper way to lube AR:
1. Pull out BCG
2. drop bcg in bucket of motor oil
3. Shake bcg once to remove excess
4. Put bcg back in gun.
5. Have faith that you are properly lubed.
You forgot the light a match part.
Nice terrible advise
Motor oil isn’t flammable like gas. Doesn’t mean you can’t light it on fire, but it’s not that easy. (At least I don’t think it is, and I’m an expert. That means you have to listen to what I say)
I use motor oil it stays where you put it doesn't run off like the thin oil does. Only thing thin oil does just run down into buffer tube
😂😂😂 sounds about right.
Back in 90s Balkan wars we just used regular engine oil. Nothing fancy it works just fine
Thanks for video 👍🏻
Thanks for serving!!
5W30 has and always will be peak performance. Motor oil has a legal obligation to perform to a set standard, firearm oil does not
I run Mobil 1on mine. Quite a bit cheaper per oz.
@@BigMackM27- In the early 70s with the 101st at Campbell, we used the 5W30 [ND - no detergent] on the M-60 MGs and they fed belted rounds through like a champ, plus it made clean-up easier even after running multiple hundreds of blanks rounds thru for exercises.
Now the barrels were a different matter, so we broke down the guns and put them through a parts washer we acquired [don't ask about that] with clean solvent to cut the fouling gunpowder loose to clean the barrels, gas pistons and chambers.
Mstrdiver - US Army 1973 to 1995
@@mstrdiverhow did you acquire the parts washer?
Thanks for the lube update. I've always just used CLP because that's what we used in the Marines and it always worked. Then I caught myself getting a nickel boron bolt carrier group which we never used and I realized that there are definitely upgrades to what I used 25 years ago LOL.
Why are you introducing points of failure into your weapon system, Marine?
Hey man, dumb civvie here: CLP is the shit! My Navy cousins put me onto CLP over a decade ago. I've tried a few others, personally can't see much difference between Slip and Break-Free in terms of film strength or overall performance, but CLP outperformed everything except Clenzoil in ProjectFarm's CLP lubricity test (video link: ruclips.net/video/fibRewlndLg/видео.html ). Ballistol is another CLP with a military background but it did really poorly in PF's tests. I note it starts out too thin yet separates/gets chunky in the cold. Also doesn't seem to be as alkaline as they claim, not prevent rust in the bore of my flintlock which had already been cleaned with boiling water.
Especially with slick nickel-coated parts, I'd say regular old CLP is _still_ an excellent choice for your AR and would definitely recommend substantive research before switching. Semper Fidelis!
@@AtlasJotun Thanks for the feedback! It's funny but I just never switched. It's like you said: worked in the sandbox, works in the freezing cold. I figured there was always something new and more advanced out there but I was too lazy to research it. Lol kinda like optics...I'm hell on wheels with the iron sights, then I finally gave in to the red dot/holographic and now I'm getting LPVOs haha.
@@andrewcarlson2178 I got old, eyes got bad, switched from iron to red dot a few years back, just ordered an LPVO earlier today, needed something to bring those 100yd targets into focus. Age catches us all eventually.
CLP is the best imo. Never had one bit of trouble in any of my firearms since using it.
Jeff, I couldn't see where the drops of oil were going. Perhaps a sharpened pencil could be used to point to the oil points.
We've added a modern version to our future lineup.
No way man. Laser pointer. It’s 2023 brother! Haha But I do agree with you on wanting to see the points. I wasn’t following the logic of the oil in front of the gas tube, and most of this video frankly? But I’m willing to listen and learn.
@@urp7006 You got me there buddy, I'm 67. lol
Brownells advises against these oiling techniques. They are not oil holes, they are gas release holes. Oil is for friction points of metal components that continuously interact with each other.
There are wear points inside the bcg that need oil and those holes grant access to them. The gas check ring is one example.
you could take your bolt out, oil it, put it back in, and it would be the same result as just dropping oil in those holes. you wan't those surfaces coated so carbon doesn't build up as much, and blows out those holes!
Why cant I get a good answer on this !!! It's back and forth oil the gas ports don't oil the gas ports ????
They want to sell you parts
We used CLP in the 80’s tried and true, still use it.
100%
U.S. Marine here, we still use CLP. This dude is obviously being paid to use this stuff.
As a master armored w/40 years experience as well a disabled army veteran with 12 of my 18 years service as a unit armorer. - that said, the type and amount of lube depends on the environment and weather.... Desert and -50 below are not the same and should not be treated the same. A good example is extreme cold. You want to test your lube to see if it thickens or freezes the bolt shut. Typically we would take a clean dry cloth and wipe the carrier and inner parts to remove any excess oil. Note: the bolt is impregnated with oil already for storage so even after wiping it down, it still has proper lubrication. I could write a book on the topic including the real pro tips on lubrication and cleaning but it would take up too much space here
Start a channel man with your phone. Lots of experience in many areas it seems, we need new people in the community with real life application experience
@@Nylonscheme I have a ton of videos as weaponeer.
Write that book and publish it online
My philosophy with guns is this. You should only run your gun dry or with the best dry lube you can get if you’re in a dusty/sandy environment but if you’re not in either one of those environments, use the best Lubicant and grease that you can find and apply them to their most effective areas. Some guns need more grease than oil because there’s more stress bearing components than others. The Lubricant that I use is SuperLube and I use both their oil and grease, it’s oderless, colorless and it has a great film strength that protects your weapon from wear. I’ve experimented with lubricant’s for years and I’ve personally modified the Lubricant by adding a small ceramic additive and so far, it works well!
@@diplexnormal3353 good to know, thx
Question: Why drop lube in the ports? Won't that just cause carbon to build up inside the BCG?
shouldnt be done
The great thing about this vid is, it didn't need video. He was clear enough with the descriptions that you could pretty much know what to do.
slip 2000 is an amazing lubricant, I bought it randomly one time just trying out different lubes, and I haven't seen my AR run so well ever highly recommend
works well as a personal lubricant as well
@@loganfignewton Gross!
The way you explain and show it, many of us have been Soaking our weapons in oil! Thank you
No problem, you're welcome
Would have helped if you would have shown where you actually dropped the oil. New owner and this really didn't tell me much
Thanks for the comment and welcome to the community. Can appreciate your concerns as a new owner. Please send us an email to admin@tridentconcepts.com and we will be happy to go over it in detail with you. Stay safe.
So how does lube end up getting to the rails that the BCG rides on? All I see happening on a DI system is the oil being blown out of the gas ports the first time the weapon is fired - the bolt itself is lubed well enough the way you showed, but that bolt carrier is running dry.
When I was overseas, our team commander uhhh, procured, a can of graphite powder. I used it in place of CLP on my 203, and it worked like a charm! Being a dry lube, it didn't attract dust or sand. And being in a dry desert environment I didn't have to worry about rust that the CLP would've been needed for. Might've actually NEEDED to clean/relube maybe twice a month.
Agree on lube amount. We tried (yuma desert w/160 M-16s) no lube, light lube, moderate lube, and heavy lube. We initially thought that no or light lube would be best in that sandy, dusty environment, but when the smoke, cleared heavy lube was decidedly the best.
I always found that lubing all bearing points have worked the best for me.
The only other thing I would suggest is to add a small amount of synthetic grease to the area where the cam pin comes into contact with the bolt. Why are you lubing the top of the charging handle?
Gravity
Please add arrows or point with a pointer to lube points.
Hi, Could you use a pointer of some type to show exactly where you are applying the oil? Thanks.
Why are you putting oil in the gas port? All that’s going to happen is it’s going to get blown out as soon as you fire the weapon. Can you please explain how this helps? What am I missing? Also, why no oil on the actual rail/track that the BCG travels on? The metal on metal that is actually making contact? I’m having a hard time understanding your logic here. I’m certainly not saying you’re wrong. But I would definitely appreciate some clarification given this is essentially going against everything I know about lubing my AR?
Weapons maintenance is one of my favorite things to do. To oil mine, I actually take the weapon apart and lightly oil the bcg, bolt, firing pin, charging handle, slide slots, trigger group, buffer, and buffer spring. I also oil the barrel, dust cover spring, and sides of my rifle. Good for over 2,000 rounds until cleaning again. I use CLP, and it works great. I heard Frog Lube is good to!
I do the same thing just as a habit to prevent rust if i dont go shooting for awhile and its down in the basement safe. Have the moisture absorbers also but definitely coat them all in oil and just wipe away excess
Frog Lube will make it a Ferrari.
Frog lube is great in warm weather. I live in North Dakota and found that when the temps drop below freezing I get malfunctions that don’t appear when I use Slip 2000 in my DI AR as well as my pistols. I now use Slip all the time.
@robertopp2283 Thanks for the info! I will be checking out Slip when I get off work today lol.
New subscriber. Like your videos. I attempt to learn some of what you've graciously provided in terms of firearms handling, so thanks much!
I read the 13 years of comments. You're quite patient with your commenters.
Haha, thanks and welcome aboard. Hard to believe this video is that old.
I seen people actually dump the metal/steel parts in a bucket of motorkote, the crazy part was it actually made the components water proof for a long damn time not to mention lubed as hell..
if its "too much" lube the gun will burn it off anyways so go till you feel safe is how I look at it and i've used 3 in 1 for years.
Thanks for clarifying this. My AR is my first 'black gun' and I found myself taken aback by the numerous vids getting almost dental pick and magnifying-monocle level of detail for dis-assembly, cleaning and lubing, and then there are the folks on AR forums.. I kept asking myself..."Battle rifle no?..and they've gone to war for 40yrs with such a drama queen?"(proven tho it plainly is)
I mean to take very good care of it but glad to know it doesnt 'require' attention akin to an italian supercar.
I just finished building my first lower. Now I gotta lube it. Thx for this video.
Congrats and you're welcome
Great video, concise explanation. Glad to know I’ve been doing it correctly the whole time. Sorry that there are so many goofball noobs in the comments that don’t understand simple concepts, or understand rifle parts.
Many thanks...
Please add arrows or point with a pointer.
Thanks for the tips on oiling my AR15 it's has a gas tube that helps keep it very clean. Adam Arm's AR15.
No problem
Retied Marine , you can oil using this method for break in 150-250 rounds. Then each time you clean your rifle , look at you bolt carefully and inside your upper receiver. everywhere you see wear " shiny spots" oil those areas . Because that is where your bolt makes contact, using a q tip lightly oil the back side of the locking lugs for good bolt unlocking/ timing when firing.
In very hot climates like where I live in Florida, Arizona ect. I use a thin grease because the heat can cause much of the oil to flow off the bolt with high heat and gravity . Just food for thought.
slip 2000 is pretty good stuff. one one my buddies in my platoon was sent a box of the stuff when i was in iraq about 5 years ago. works real great with DI gas system. no one that used this lube experienced any malfunctions (besides faulty magazines) at all. since ive been out of active duty ive been using tetra gun grease on most of my personal firearms including my gas piston operated ar's, m1a's, and all of my pistols. both of these lubes are great and are recommended from my experience.
Thank you for your service.
We can not see where you are lubing!
Suggest better camera, lighting and a pointer!
Sorry about the camera angle, the video was shot over 10 years ago ;-) We have thought about doing an updated video when time permits. Thanks for the message.
@Chris090883 Actually using things like synthetic oil and wheel bearing grease have been used by more shooters than you may think. There's nothing wrong with using it. The synthetic oil works great to deal with the heat generated by the gases.
I have used the amsoil forever
Wheel bearing is far more efficient, one of my favorite alt lubes.
Thank You sir,for your proper instruction on lubing the AR platform!!!! USAF VET here you are correct!!!!!!🎯🎯🎯🎯🎯👍👍🤝✌️😉😎
Bullshit...he has no clue how to lube and neither do you...but what do you expect from a flyboy watching a salvation army reject who doesn't know crap about guns.
I will probably never own an AR-15 but here I am.
Field strip it, disassemble the BCG, inspect and clean all parts for cracks, fissures, wear, oil wear points and rails on the carrier, run a rope cleaner down the barrel, reassemble it. How about that?🎉
How about you listen and read the point behind the video. We can use crayons to explain if that helps?
I use sausage gravy myself. Smells great when it heats up under fire. Makes everyone hungry.
OMG I swear I watched 100 videos that say dont lube the bolt vent holes I'm so confused now.
When you are showing where to apply oil, you give a frame shot without pointing out exactly where it goes (you just talk about it without pointing out where you are talking about), then you cut to a side angle shot and you can't see where EXACTLY you are applying the oil.
Yeah, the video is over a dozen years old so we've learned a lot.
If you could make a video with highlights marking where, that’d be awesome.
Thanks for posting this sir!!! I started oiling my rilfe this way last November when I first saw this video. Works like a charm, in fact I just completed a EAG class with Uncle Pat in St.Augustine this last weekend. We went through just over 1500 rounds each in 3 days. I oiled up my carbine each morning before our morning brief, and I had no problems whatsoever. I have around 6000 rounds through this upper without cleaning, just lube every 500-600 rounds!!
Thanks again!!!
Terrible advice
@@madride858585agree 😂😂
Nice job Shipmate! Carry on!
It is hilarious to me as to the number of commenters .....who fancy themselves as (self anointed) experts.....and who have minimal, or no, training / expertise!
Two topics (among hundreds) that always bring out those wannabe geniuses are:
1. lubrication in the gun community and
2. anchors in the sailing community.
So true...
For whatever reason gun cleaning methods are so debated in the gun world. I always took a more detailed approach to cleaning my guns. I do more than your typical field strip usually and clean after I shoot every-time no matter how little or much rounds I put through the gun. I know I don’t have to clean my m4 as much as I do. I know my particular one can run probably 800-1000 rounds before it needs real attention. I clean it anyways. I do this for one reason. It’s better for your guns to be clean than dirty.
I have an AR with over 15k through it that hasn't been cleaned in 10 years. 😂
I just wipe mobile 1 on the bcg time to time.
It still shoots the same old 2moa groups, and still runs just fine. I've just been torture testing it for years.
Use high temperature bearing grease from local car parts store. Carbon wipes right off, no scraping. Machine gun, rifle, pistol stays lubricated for thousands of rounds. Won't matter if dust, sand, dirt.
Yup. THE expedient way especially in the field. Drop and go!
After breakdown, good cleaning and during reassembly, a complete lube of the BCG and CH is evenly applied with a gloved hand and a Q-Tip. If you really want to spoil these babies (at base or home), use a small detailing brush on the BCG & CH. I use a shaving brush (horse hair). Works great on pistol slide rails and barrel lugs. A super light coat on blued guns too. Just put a couple drops on the brush, massage it into the brush with your fingers, and start painting. Lol. If you drop too much on the brush, dab the brush on a spare microfiber cloth and use the cloth for later. Just ziplock it. Applies so evenly and brush lasts forever.
But on the fly, you guys got it right! Keep up the great work, folks.
Agreed, thanks...
Could you do another video showing specific target locations? The video is unclear on those points! Thanks!
Will try to update the video, stay tuned.
I don’t think you’re supposed to put it in the gas port.
The gun doesn’t move the charging handle when it cycles, don’t lube the top of that handle.
You want lube on the exterior of the BCG wherever it rubs on the upper, and on the bolt where it rubs inside the BCG.
Use any synthetic high heat motor oil.
No problems 😊
It’s easier to chamber the rifle when you lube the charging handle, especially once your rifle starts to get dirty.
@@codbot3251 never been an issue for me. 🤷🏼♂️
@@johnmarkharris run your gun through dirt for a few days and you’ll see what I mean
Light gun grease, like Enos Slide Glide will work on metal on metal for friction movement. Enos Slide Glide will stay on too.
Have never seen this stuff in the wild, but will keep an eye out.
Terrible camera shots of WHERE your applying the oil. It would be great for new shooters if you Redo this video showing where the drops land.
Thanks, video was shot over 10 years ago😂
I use cup grease you know, for like cars and machinery. Oil will run off, grease won't.
I hope this is for while out in the field under extreme use like during combat or maybe during a class where there's little to no time to properly break the rifle apart and clean/lube. Any other reason and it's just encouraging bad habits. It's super easy to field strip, clean and lube an AR. For any new users don't let the thought of care and maintenance scare you like it did me when I first started. Once you get through it for the first time then it's a cakewalk from then on out!
While those are good conditions to apply the lube, this method will work regardless. This method also does not create any bad habits, it is just a simple and easy method to care for your rifle.
The purpose of this method is two reasons! First and most importantly is so you don’t loose any parts to your weapon as you don’t know when the enemy is going to come charging in during battlefield operations! Lastly I think it may have to do with zero of your optics! Bang them around while you disassemble your weapon. Some even take them off and try to put them in the same spots when done. Some optics are way better at holding zeros than others but why take the chance?
You can bare shoot a bullet without the mag, if it's really clogged.
All the people saying he didn’t show anything…..you obviously don’t train and learn your AR platform tool enough maybe take some classes if your that ignorant…13 years later good video
🎉 Would be Great video if you actually pointing to where you dropped the oil lube???😮 but thx
This video has so much nostalgia. The Larue rail, TD stubby grip, Troy battle sights, and a Ready Mag!!!! Love it.
I know right...you got to love the #OG
Would be good to have arrows for the lube spots to make it clearer. Thank you.
thx jeff., keep the vids coming., we're out here watchin, and it gives a great impression of your company
Once past round count 250 for break in. I run mine dry. Completely but for one drop Slip 2000 on gas rings. I clean every use.
Nice, good system
I use motor oil one bottle last years if you have more then 1 gun maybe less. But motor oil works good last long time probly better then any quality gun oil out there you just get a big bottle for 5$ vs. 10-30$ for a lil over a quarter of the 5$ bottle.
A friend of mine lubed his AK with cheap lube and left it in his safe. Two years later he took his AK and went shooting, completely forgetting the fact that it was stored away for 2 years. The AK was dry. He shot over 400 rounds with it, 0 issues. When he came home he saw minor metal filing on the rails and piston. Stupid mistake for sure but shows you the reliability of AK.
He submitted this video to the pentagon for review and what we have here is what remains after being redacted.
🤣🤣🤣
13 years later this guy getting ripped a new one.
Thank god there are better informed people on the internet, cause if this were the only "how to" vid on this subject, there'd be a LOT of busted AR's out there...
Good video. I know nothing about the lube that he's using. I will check it out. I've been using ATF for years. It lasts a very long time. It's tolerance for heat is unquestionable and I can but it by the Qt at a very reasonable cost.
You won't be disappointed
TW25B has worked great in my DI ARs. My piston and belt feds stay wet with AWT extreme force oil .
This would be a great informative video if maybe you had put some arrows to show exactly where you were oiling. Just a thought.
It would be nice to see where those drops are hitting.
We've been toying with the idea of remaking this video
Can't believe this video doesn't mention the cam pin. SURELY that needs some lube, too (but I do try to keep lube off the firing pin).
Why not lube all shiny metal. If you shoot the metal to metal will show.
The point of the video is to avoid breaking down the rifle and quickly lube to prevent any downtime in class.
You cannot put oil in those 2 gas ports , because it will blow hot air and burn up the oil , it doesn't help , the first round will blow anything outta those holes, not even grease would do any good .
We love hearing these comments. It's as if you know more than we do😆
Great camera work. Could’ve done this on fm radio
I first learned how to maintain the AR platform in the Marine Corps in 1980. Have been shooting it since.
It’s always wise to refresh your memory.. thank you 👍
can not see the exact spots you are oiling!!!
Understood, it is difficult to get everything done in a single video.
So adding oil in to a pressure release ports seems to be excellent idea.
I've used both slip2000 and Frog Lube, and Frog lube won my heart. After the initial treatment Frog Lube recommends, I did a test. After I taught a few classes, I had fired over 2600 rounds b4 lubing or opening up my rig. No malfunctions during. The bolt pretty much wiped clean, and everything was still slicker than snot on a door nob. Slip2000 is good, but my opinion Frog Lube is the best thing to have come along in a while as far as lube.
And it makes your gun smell good 👍
Facts once I heard of frog lube around 2010 tried it and never went back. When I enlisted in the US Army and became and 11B brought it with me to use instead of the clp they tried to give me lol they wondered how my rifle was so easily cleaned after ranges Ect. Never told them I didn’t use their shit. Also I you can eat it and it won’t fuck you up might upset the stomach a little but don’t ask how I know lol
I have had bad results with frog lube in rain and freezing weather. That's just me. Not calling out the product. The conditions could have screwed up alot of lubes?
So put the slippery stuff on the moving parts. Got it. Thanks Chief!
helpful info, thanks
Call me a grumpy old man as I enjoy my Mini 14, old school style. Two-three MOA, total reliability, light (even with an AR 'dot' scope mounted), short barrel for close spaces.
Why would we call you grumpy??? I mean, we've never seen a Mini 14 make it through one of our classes in the last 20 plus years🤣
I appreciate the video. It has been 11 years, do you still run this wet or has your maintenance changed?
I don't know if I can qualify how "wet" I run the rifle in the video, but I use the same procedure if that helps.
@@TridentConcepts - Thank you for responding, thanks again for the video/channel.
I’ve always done the spray Ballistol all over it method.
Couldn't see most of the points you were oiling.
We understand they are difficult to see, but hopefully the explanation helps.
I have been playing with guns since the 60's and all we really used was 3n1 oil. I have a box of lubes next to my box of holsters. Now I clean with Ed's Red and lube with Mobil 1 or syn. ATF and a good grade of grease you can buy in any automotive dept. What I am seeing is good marketing and way overthinking. If you want to play with the lubes, by all means do it, but you really don't need to. And if you want to ask enough qualified people about how much lube to use, it runs from dry to dripping.
We are all a product of our own thinking and experiences. If you are happy with your system, good for you.
After removing poor quality firearms, magazines and ammunition from the equation the majority of malfunctions we see in classes are due to poor lubricant and not knowing where to apply the lubricant.
I have been in austere conditions where we outran our supply chain. It taught me to consider alternatives to what I prefer to use and I used everything from motor oil to Vaseline.
The only reason we recommend this product is because it was tested on our machine guns, extreme heat and pressure. Then we took a year to use it exclusively in our classes. Our students participated in the test by following instructions prior to the class then instructions for lubricating during the class. In that time period, we documented over 100k rounds fired. When the protocol was followed with quality firearms, ammunition and magazines the only errors we experienced we operator induced.
But you go on with your bad self...
Wow look how young Jeff looks! Amazing how far these videos have come over the years.
I know, right!!! Pretty hilarious, but it has been an amazing ride.
I have never seen anyone lube their AR this way. Thanks, but I will keep doing it the way I have been taught. AR rifles fail for two reasons. Bad magazines and improperly lubrication.
That's quite alright, it is has only been working in student's guns for over a dozen of years with hundreds of thousands of rounds down range.
@@TridentConcepts To each their own I suppose. This video, however, is the only one out of dozens I have seen that recommends this technique. The manufacturers don't even recommend what is portrayed here.
@@johnraba8669 it’s common practice for those in the know
@@mindcraftpoly8869 This is virtually the only video that suggests this method. Just saying.
@@johnraba8669 keep in mind, this is a quick field expedient way to get a little oil inside your bcg which you can’t quickly do any other way.
ruclips.net/video/f5hYYy-OkCg/видео.html
Here’s one. John’s pretty legit...
Lubed up is always better than dry!! That's a life lesson kids!
I learned something new today. This something that was not taught while I was in the Marines. I will put this information to use on weapons. Thanks a bunch.
I got your book on Combat. Loved it.
On Combat was written by Lt.Col. Dave Grossman, but thank you all the same.
@@TridentConcepts My apologies. I would say it was my TBI, but my lack of attention to detail is my error. It is Combative Fundamentals An Unconventional Approach
Could not see half the spots you oiled
The only way you would know where he put the oil is if you already knew , you show a picture then who knows where you actually put the oil !
This video was produced for our students coming to training class to prepare them for the high rounds to keep their rifles on the line. But thanks for stopping by
Can’t see where he dropped the oil. 👎
How’s the company doing? I remember back when this rifle came out a buddy who’s dad was a Recon Marine had one and taught me some thing about shooting before I went in the Army and boy oh boy was it a great running rifle brings back memories
Loved that rifle, solid. Things are good, new problems and new solutions.
Why not just take the bolt carrier group and charging handle out so you can properly lube them? It only takes 10 seconds.....that way you can put a little oil on your thumb and lube the buffer tube as well.
Why bother, he's not.cleaning it he just oild the bcg and receiver at the same time. oil is gonna get into the buffer tube anyways when the bolt is back and if the gun is.standing on the butt like in a.safe the buffer tube collects oil.
Completely agree. Unless I'm in the fight of my life after going through so many rounds that my properly cleaned and lubed gun actually needs more lube then I see no reason why to not properly care for the rifle. It's so damn quick and easy.
It's just faster
Thanks for the video! I’m always amazed at the gun guys who know better than special ops guys! As for me I’ll follow your advice Jeff.