Is it possible to for you to share where you got the arduino board and where you got the software? I heard you say some things, but having a hard time Googling where to get the Arduino and software. Thanks in advance
Yes the board right from amazon. The software you can grab up from the Arduino website I believe. I watched other RUclips to vids to figure this out. Hope the helps. Thanks for watching!
They’re kind of a waste of time without cutting the squish/ base Throw the lrb piston directly in the trash. Anyhow, cut as much out of the squish as you can, you’ll run into the spark plug threads before you run out of piston. Cut the squish at a similar taper as the piston. Use the oem piston… the pop up is a waste of time with the d shaped combustion chamber and the lrb piston is inferior in every way. Cut base to match squish. 105 ish on the exhaust. Widen and open it to match the muffler… the port is tiny. 120 on the transfers. Take the caps off. If you cut enough out of the squish your intake should be like 77-79, take the rest off the piston and shoot for like 80 if need be. Open the lowers up as much as you can, match the gasket. But absolutely positively don’t hog out all of the skirt like that. Put the piston in the cylinder at bdc and look where the strato port in the piston is. Breaching the strato at bdc is just killing torque. I usually put the piston in the cylinder at bdc and scribe the piston skirt to the cylinder… don’t go much further than that line. You’ll Have to trim the flywheel or the cylinder to fit. That simple recipe should put you at mid 4 horse. Lighten up the flywheel, the piston pin, mod the carb, gut the intake elbow and play with transfer angles/ direction and you’ll be over 5. Don’t adjust the ignition timing, it’s about maxed. My last one was 5.2 average. Charles Brisco has a handful of videos of these and the neotec ones (they’re literally the same, as long as You get a working carb) that dyno’d just under 5.
Great info! I’ll definitely keep this info in mind. Extremely disappointed in the LRB piston, but that was provided to me for the build. I advised him that we could make more power with the stock piston. All in all for making it work, it still put out great power, such a fun little saw to run. I have some ideas for my Neotec. Thanks for watching!
Is it possible to for you to share where you got the arduino board and where you got the software? I heard you say some things, but having a hard time Googling where to get the Arduino and software. Thanks in advance
Yes the board right from amazon. The software you can grab up from the Arduino website I believe. I watched other RUclips to vids to figure this out. Hope the helps.
Thanks for watching!
They’re kind of a waste of time without cutting the squish/ base
Throw the lrb piston directly in the trash.
Anyhow, cut as much out of the squish as you can, you’ll run into the spark plug threads before you run out of piston. Cut the squish at a similar taper as the piston. Use the oem piston… the pop up is a waste of time with the d shaped combustion chamber and the lrb piston is inferior in every way. Cut base to match squish. 105 ish on the exhaust. Widen and open it to match the muffler… the port is tiny. 120 on the transfers. Take the caps off. If you cut enough out of the squish your intake should be like 77-79, take the rest off the piston and shoot for like 80 if need be. Open the lowers up as much as you can, match the gasket. But absolutely positively don’t hog out all of the skirt like that. Put the piston in the cylinder at bdc and look where the strato port in the piston is. Breaching the strato at bdc is just killing torque. I usually put the piston in the cylinder at bdc and scribe the piston skirt to the cylinder… don’t go much further than that line. You’ll
Have to trim the flywheel or the cylinder to fit.
That simple recipe should put you at mid 4 horse. Lighten up the flywheel, the piston pin, mod the carb, gut the intake elbow and play with transfer angles/ direction and you’ll be over 5. Don’t adjust the ignition timing, it’s about maxed. My last one was 5.2 average. Charles Brisco has a handful of videos of these and the neotec ones (they’re literally the same, as long as
You get a working carb) that dyno’d just under 5.
Great info! I’ll definitely keep this info in mind. Extremely disappointed in the LRB piston, but that was provided to me for the build. I advised him that we could make more power with the stock piston. All in all for making it work, it still put out great power, such a fun little saw to run. I have some ideas for my Neotec.
Thanks for watching!