If you unplug the pressure switch on you dryer and look inside the switch you will see a set screw, turn that counter clockwise maybe like a 1/4 turn, it makes your compressor cycle longer which will give you cooler air. Hope this helps!!
The orifice tube (or capillary tube, expansion valve, or whatever metering device is used) is primarily to serve as a restriction in the refrigeration circuit which creates a pressure differential in which the pressure behind it is much higher than the pressure in front of it (the pressure in front is lower also because of the compressor pulling the refrigerant into itself). When the liquid refrigerant crosses this barrier, it finds itself in a much lower pressure environment which causes its boiling point to drop significantly.
The issue i've had with my car has been a serious one while driving in RAIN or COLD is FOGGING WINDSHIELD.. My car is a 1992 and purchased in 1998. I was the 3rd owner (Old lady bought it new in 1992), Sold it to an younger welder guy a few years later. He installed a 80-series flowmaster exhaust and nothing else was done (as I knew). It came with AC and while I didn't really use it (who doesn't like to drive with the WINDOWS DOWN! I did use it occasionally but it soon leaked out. I was TOLD it was like $1000 to convert the then banned R12 to the R134 and so I never bothered. Within the year when I bought the car from that guy in 1998 I added a cowl hood and ever since then, and the AC being drained the windows have ALWAYS been an issue. I would be find driving on freeway or normal speed (windows down) then I stop at a light and you can see the heat bellowing out the hood and the windows would fog up. I would try HEAT, COLD (no ac) and DEFROST mode.. Nothing would fix it.. Just a few months ago at a car meet, my buddy car mechanic friend looked at my engine bay as a stalker at the show stayed for like 3 hours WAITING for the owner of the car (me) to come so he could ask questions lol , my friend finally got to really look at my engine bay. The guy commented on how he has AC and I mentioned it leaked out and r12 is banned. Mechanic buddy said it was ALREADY retrofitted (shocking to me since the guy (2nd owner) never said he did which means he WAS running R134 that entire time (old lady sure as heck didn;t do that). I couldn't figure out WHAT exactly was changed as it looks OEM that I could see.. because he said I could just go to Canadian Tire and pick up those R12 to R134 replacement refill (obviously need to be purged at a shop, and the leak fixed first) and would be fixed with AC again. The ONLY REASON I want AC is because evidently DEFROST does not work as it should WITHOUT AC and that is an issue that is downright DANGEROUS to deal with. I have video of me driving down SW marine drive in Vancouver and the windshield around midnight fogged up within seconds and a car light hit the windshield and you can see in my dashcam that I started to drive all over the lane into the lane beside me as I was BLINDED.. Like trying to look thru vaseline smeared on a window... SCARY!!! As a result, I found your video to see what exactly was fixed since I was told it would be like $1000 back then (1998) to retrofit to R134. Looks like you changed the entire canister... I didn't realize he changed the whole thing.. confused...
I definitely recommend getting the AC fixed for defogging, that has arguably been the best part of getting it working for me. As far as what needs to be done, first of all, if it leaked out, you need to fix the leak. If you have an original system, chances are pretty good it was the compressor. The original R4 compressors have large O-rings that go around the entire perimeter of the casing and leak all the time, hence why I went with the scroll-style retrofit (still working great by the way!). While you've got the system open, it'll take you 20 minutes to replace all of the O-rings for the lines, very worthwhile and simple to do. As for the retrofit, two things you'll need to replace: the accumulator canister (~20$ on Rockauto) and the orifice tube. There are discussions online on thirdgen.org about the reasons behind it, but I went for a blue "Ford" orifice tube as recommended by Lsxmatt in this video (highly recommend watching it btw): ruclips.net/video/dGEATP83k0M/видео.html&ab_channel=Lsxmatt Other than that, throw some cheap adapter fittings on and take it to your local shop to have it charged. If it's been leaking this long you'll want to pull a vacuum to boil off any moisture inside the system, so unless you want to invest in the tools I'd just take it to a shop. If you do all of the other work yourself you'd likely come in under that $1000 mark even if you buy a new compressor. Best of luck!!
Great videos (series), I have a 1992 Camaro B4C 1LE and currently experiencing issues with the blower motor, but you just completely did a new install from scratch! Awesome! I'm troubleshooting why the AC speeds M1, the one past low, and High speed only works! I check voltage, I'm getting close to 12V on High and around 10 on M1 speed, M2, which is before High, only gets around 5V and Low gets 0V. I'm thinking it's the Relay, as I already replaced the resistor. Or, hopefully it's not the switch!
I purchased the v-belt version of this ac compressor for my 80's Buick, the pulley is the same 5" diameter as the original compressor. Haven't installed it yet, still accumulating parts.
That should work out very well for you! Mine has been working without issue ever since I installed it in May, just gotta get around to upgrading that darn condenser!
@@brickheadgarage554 Not sure if you can, your fan is electric? But I installed a larger fan, mine's the engine driven fan. Aside from getting a fancy condensor, a fin comb will straighten fins. Relieved to hear you're pleased with the compressor, the R4 gm compressors are fragile and I've been through several, replacing them gets old. I've been trying to find a review on this alternative and saw yours then pulled the trigger. Thanks for doing this.
I finished installing mine last year end of summer. Flushed, vacummed and charged with 152a and PAG oil. The system seemed to work well, I agree at low speed it's not as good as higher speeds but this is my 1st experience with 152a so nothing to compare it to. The system seems to have held pressure well over winter and I'm looking forward to further testing this summer. Anyway, thanks for taking the leap and posting your results.
Man! I was watching and then heard you were in Canada.. shocked me when I see you're in MY AREA! I'm surprised you used ferrenheit instead of celcuius as here in Canada...
I’ll be honest, it felt unnatural, it was the cheapest thermometer I could find! I think I’ve actually seen your car around before in the area, it’s a sweet ride!
I would never run the engine on a compressor that is not fully hooked to the rest of the system....hard lines or soft lines replacement is cheap insurance against leaks....ditto on a dirty and rock bashed front condenser
It took me about 3-4 weeks of off and on working on it, in terms of hours, maybe somewhere in the 20 hour range? The engine bay stuff isn't too bad, I would say the most time consuming part is removing the dash to reach the air-diverter airbox and swap the blower motor wiring harness. I actually found an AC dashboard (with the vents on the sides) and have sinced swapped that in, (might make it into a future video), so I've done that part twice and can say that its definately the "worst" part of the procedure.
Are you still satisfied? I want to put this scroll compressor in my 89 caprice, but according to the website it only fits model years up to 87..gotta talk to the manifacturer what the difference is. From the looks the compressor should fit
I’m still very happy with it. I eventually found a modern parallel-flow condenser and it blows cold like a brand new car. If the standard compressor is the same from 87-89 it might work… but checking with the manufacturer is always the best bet!
@@brickheadgarage554 Manufacturer says it wont fit the 89 cars....but..I cannot see why it wouldnt. 6 groove Belt, correct connector and location for the coil. I think there are no differences with the actual size of the R4 housing itself. If I compare the standard R4 piston compressor of my car with the standard R4 of a 1989 C1500 pickup (for which there is a scroll compressor available), the only difference ist the pulley diameter. Which would be no problem with a shorter belt...Ill keep researching for a bit an maybe just try it. I really want the silent compressor
@@hakaluku Pulley diameter is smaller, I switched to a shorter belt and had no issues on mine, sounds to me like it might work! Up to you if you want to send it though
@@brickheadgarage554 I ordered the scroll version, have everything ready for install next weekend. I will let you know if it worked. Thx for your response 👌🏻
@@brickheadgarage554 Got the scroll compressor installed, fits perfectly. Shorter belt and it runs SILENT. I love it. Cools very good although it was only 80°F with 55%. Lets see on a hotter day.
It's been working flawlessly ever since! Managed to find a parallel flow condencer (Spectra Premium 7-3231, labbelled as stock replacement, happens to be parallel flow) and I've been loving it. No issues with the scroll-style compressor at all.
@@brickheadgarage554 Right on. Turns out I already had that condenser in my Amazon wishlist, sheer luck. Hopefully i can get it all together and knock this out before it gets any warmer this year.
Sorry! I should have listed it! I bought it from amazon: www.amazon.com/Universal-Conditioner-CO-11169MC-KTAC-Compressor/dp/B01BPEKAEK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Universal+Air+Conditioner+CO+11169MC-KTAC+A%2FC+Compressor&qid=1629007431&sr=8-1 I've also posted the link in the description!
This guys channel is extremely underrated.
Thanks so much! I should have more content out very soon!
Indeed. He does very detailed and thorough videos which is why I subscribed :-)
If you unplug the pressure switch on you dryer and look inside the switch you will see a set screw, turn that counter clockwise maybe like a 1/4 turn, it makes your compressor cycle longer which will give you cooler air. Hope this helps!!
Wow! I'll have to give that a shot thanks for the tip!
The orifice tube (or capillary tube, expansion valve, or whatever metering device is used) is primarily to serve as a restriction in the refrigeration circuit which creates a pressure differential in which the pressure behind it is much higher than the pressure in front of it (the pressure in front is lower also because of the compressor pulling the refrigerant into itself). When the liquid refrigerant crosses this barrier, it finds itself in a much lower pressure environment which causes its boiling point to drop significantly.
The issue i've had with my car has been a serious one while driving in RAIN or COLD is FOGGING WINDSHIELD..
My car is a 1992 and purchased in 1998. I was the 3rd owner (Old lady bought it new in 1992), Sold it to an younger welder guy a few years later. He installed a 80-series flowmaster exhaust and nothing else was done (as I knew).
It came with AC and while I didn't really use it (who doesn't like to drive with the WINDOWS DOWN! I did use it occasionally but it soon leaked out. I was TOLD it was like $1000 to convert the then banned R12 to the R134 and so I never bothered. Within the year when I bought the car from that guy in 1998 I added a cowl hood and ever since then, and the AC being drained the windows have ALWAYS been an issue.
I would be find driving on freeway or normal speed (windows down) then I stop at a light and you can see the heat bellowing out the hood and the windows would fog up. I would try HEAT, COLD (no ac) and DEFROST mode.. Nothing would fix it..
Just a few months ago at a car meet, my buddy car mechanic friend looked at my engine bay as a stalker at the show stayed for like 3 hours WAITING for the owner of the car (me) to come so he could ask questions lol , my friend finally got to really look at my engine bay. The guy commented on how he has AC and I mentioned it leaked out and r12 is banned.
Mechanic buddy said it was ALREADY retrofitted (shocking to me since the guy (2nd owner) never said he did which means he WAS running R134 that entire time (old lady sure as heck didn;t do that).
I couldn't figure out WHAT exactly was changed as it looks OEM that I could see.. because he said I could just go to Canadian Tire and pick up those R12 to R134 replacement refill (obviously need to be purged at a shop, and the leak fixed first) and would be fixed with AC again.
The ONLY REASON I want AC is because evidently DEFROST does not work as it should WITHOUT AC and that is an issue that is downright DANGEROUS to deal with.
I have video of me driving down SW marine drive in Vancouver and the windshield around midnight fogged up within seconds and a car light hit the windshield and you can see in my dashcam that I started to drive all over the lane into the lane beside me as I was BLINDED.. Like trying to look thru vaseline smeared on a window... SCARY!!!
As a result, I found your video to see what exactly was fixed since I was told it would be like $1000 back then (1998) to retrofit to R134.
Looks like you changed the entire canister... I didn't realize he changed the whole thing.. confused...
I definitely recommend getting the AC fixed for defogging, that has arguably been the best part of getting it working for me.
As far as what needs to be done, first of all, if it leaked out, you need to fix the leak. If you have an original system, chances are pretty good it was the compressor. The original R4 compressors have large O-rings that go around the entire perimeter of the casing and leak all the time, hence why I went with the scroll-style retrofit (still working great by the way!). While you've got the system open, it'll take you 20 minutes to replace all of the O-rings for the lines, very worthwhile and simple to do.
As for the retrofit, two things you'll need to replace: the accumulator canister (~20$ on Rockauto) and the orifice tube. There are discussions online on thirdgen.org about the reasons behind it, but I went for a blue "Ford" orifice tube as recommended by Lsxmatt in this video (highly recommend watching it btw): ruclips.net/video/dGEATP83k0M/видео.html&ab_channel=Lsxmatt
Other than that, throw some cheap adapter fittings on and take it to your local shop to have it charged. If it's been leaking this long you'll want to pull a vacuum to boil off any moisture inside the system, so unless you want to invest in the tools I'd just take it to a shop. If you do all of the other work yourself you'd likely come in under that $1000 mark even if you buy a new compressor.
Best of luck!!
Great videos (series), I have a 1992 Camaro B4C 1LE and currently experiencing issues with the blower motor, but you just completely did a new install from scratch! Awesome! I'm troubleshooting why the AC speeds M1, the one past low, and High speed only works! I check voltage, I'm getting close to 12V on High and around 10 on M1 speed, M2, which is before High, only gets around 5V and Low gets 0V. I'm thinking it's the Relay, as I already replaced the resistor. Or, hopefully it's not the switch!
I’m a little late but hopefully you got it fixed!!!
It turned out really nice!!!
Thanks! Still some small things I'd like to tweak, but its so much nicer to have cool air in the summer!
Excellent work! Now put a 383 stroker in it!
Hahaha, now that would help get some extra wind through the condenser and cool things down!
cool videos. i like the music at 7 minutes.
I'm glad you like them, Thanks so much!
I purchased the v-belt version of this ac compressor for my 80's Buick, the pulley is the same 5" diameter as the original compressor. Haven't installed it yet, still accumulating parts.
That should work out very well for you! Mine has been working without issue ever since I installed it in May, just gotta get around to upgrading that darn condenser!
@@brickheadgarage554 Not sure if you can, your fan is electric? But I installed a larger fan, mine's the engine driven fan.
Aside from getting a fancy condensor, a fin comb will straighten fins.
Relieved to hear you're pleased with the compressor, the R4 gm compressors are fragile and I've been through several, replacing them gets old. I've been trying to find a review on this alternative and saw yours then pulled the trigger. Thanks for doing this.
I finished installing mine last year end of summer. Flushed, vacummed and charged with 152a and PAG oil. The system seemed to work well, I agree at low speed it's not as good as higher speeds but this is my 1st experience with 152a so nothing to compare it to.
The system seems to have held pressure well over winter and I'm looking forward to further testing this summer.
Anyway, thanks for taking the leap and posting your results.
Man! I was watching and then heard you were in Canada.. shocked me when I see you're in MY AREA!
I'm surprised you used ferrenheit instead of celcuius as here in Canada...
I’ll be honest, it felt unnatural, it was the cheapest thermometer I could find! I think I’ve actually seen your car around before in the area, it’s a sweet ride!
@@brickheadgarage554 LOL! Are you in VCG? (Vancouver Camaro Group)
Nice tutorial man!!!
Thanks so much!
I would never run the engine on a compressor that is not fully hooked to the rest of the system....hard lines or soft lines replacement is cheap insurance against leaks....ditto on a dirty and rock bashed front condenser
How many hours of work would you say it took to complete this project? Love the series, it helps immensely!
It took me about 3-4 weeks of off and on working on it, in terms of hours, maybe somewhere in the 20 hour range?
The engine bay stuff isn't too bad, I would say the most time consuming part is removing the dash to reach the air-diverter airbox and swap the blower motor wiring harness. I actually found an AC dashboard (with the vents on the sides) and have sinced swapped that in, (might make it into a future video), so I've done that part twice and can say that its definately the "worst" part of the procedure.
@@brickheadgarage554 Yes i thought so too, removing such a large piece then dealing with all the spaghetti under doesnt look fun
@@dwarrowdelf8554 Tedious but not impossible, and I can say for me personally, it was absolutely worth the struggle!
Did you need to get a shorter belt because of the smaller pulley size? Also what belt would work with this compressor?
Yes! I did end up needing a shorter belt, the stock one "works" but the tensioner is at full extension. Ended up going with a ACDelco 6K935
Are you still satisfied? I want to put this scroll compressor in my 89 caprice, but according to the website it only fits model years up to 87..gotta talk to the manifacturer what the difference is. From the looks the compressor should fit
I’m still very happy with it. I eventually found a modern parallel-flow condenser and it blows cold like a brand new car. If the standard compressor is the same from 87-89 it might work… but checking with the manufacturer is always the best bet!
@@brickheadgarage554 Manufacturer says it wont fit the 89 cars....but..I cannot see why it wouldnt. 6 groove Belt, correct connector and location for the coil. I think there are no differences with the actual size of the R4 housing itself. If I compare the standard R4 piston compressor of my car with the standard R4 of a 1989 C1500 pickup (for which there is a scroll compressor available), the only difference ist the pulley diameter. Which would be no problem with a shorter belt...Ill keep researching for a bit an maybe just try it. I really want the silent compressor
@@hakaluku Pulley diameter is smaller, I switched to a shorter belt and had no issues on mine, sounds to me like it might work! Up to you if you want to send it though
@@brickheadgarage554 I ordered the scroll version, have everything ready for install next weekend. I will let you know if it worked. Thx for your response 👌🏻
@@brickheadgarage554 Got the scroll compressor installed, fits perfectly. Shorter belt and it runs SILENT. I love it. Cools very good although it was only 80°F with 55%. Lets see on a hotter day.
Getting ready to get my AC functional again, how's this one been holding up?
It's been working flawlessly ever since! Managed to find a parallel flow condencer (Spectra Premium 7-3231, labbelled as stock replacement, happens to be parallel flow) and I've been loving it. No issues with the scroll-style compressor at all.
@@brickheadgarage554 Right on. Turns out I already had that condenser in my Amazon wishlist, sheer luck. Hopefully i can get it all together and knock this out before it gets any warmer this year.
Link on where to get this compressor?
Sorry! I should have listed it! I bought it from amazon:
www.amazon.com/Universal-Conditioner-CO-11169MC-KTAC-Compressor/dp/B01BPEKAEK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Universal+Air+Conditioner+CO+11169MC-KTAC+A%2FC+Compressor&qid=1629007431&sr=8-1
I've also posted the link in the description!