Harrison R4 Radial Air Conditioning Compressor Re-Seal (rebuild)
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Here I re-seal a General Motors R4 (Radial 4) Harrison / Delco-Air air conditioning compressor. It was used with R12 Freon gas from the factory. Changing to HFC refrigerant (R134A / HFC152A) means new O-rings are needed.
I purchased the seals from Gary of Mobile Mechanics. His eBay store link is as follows:
myworld.ebay.co...
*********Video of testing and charging:
• Charge and test of Rad...
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I'm always amazed at how compact the R4 is.
The oil hole on the front bearing support is important. Mercedes used this compressor on the 1980-1985 diesel models, but mounted it upside down compared to GM. When people install a GM compressor on the MB it tends to burn out quickly. I believe there is an X stamped on that bearing support showing where the oiling hole is.
I appreciate your video. I was trying to figure out how to remove the high pressure sensor without destroying the thin plastic plug housing. The Socket and rubber wrap is a great idea. Your video was the only one I found on youtube which showed how to remove it. Thanks!
So happy it has helped you!
Very informative video! I've always wanted to see the guts of a R4. I've got some older compressors that need to be resealed, but I usually just buy a rebuilt unit that's already compatible with 134a. At least now I see that it can be done, although I don't have a hot water washer.
+farmboy30117 Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! There is one major point about the store-bought rebuilts. They are often under pressure to produce those as cheaply as possible. Therefore they will use the lowest-cost parts they can find. The good thing about doing it yourself is, you get to choose the parts that go into the unit.
+farmboy30117 It's possible to do without a pressure washer. If you take more time with brake cleaner and a brass-bristle brush, you'll be able to succeed.
Yeah, I know, but I've bought a brand new a/c compressor that was so tight it strained the motor to turn it, so how can you win? It's a gamble either way, but I'd like to try doing it myself sometime. Thanks again!
Very good video I will attempt this because I saved the original compressor for my 94 Silverado as an extra unit👍🏼
This is more of an every guy's garage way of doing it without all of the fancy pullers, presses and whatnot. The way most of us would do it. Thanks.
Very good information, enjoyed watching that teardown. I see why A/C systems can be a bit complex to work on, but once rebuilt correctly, they should last a long time!
+CAVisual Productions That is true. They can be tedious because there is one small charge of refrigerant that has to stay in there for a long time without ANY leaking. Attention to detail is critical.
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I have one sitting and sort of not turning smoothly. Got the chassis manual too. Should try doing it up. This video just gave me an idea how it looks inside and any precautions to take. Thank you very much
That's great information, thanks for sharing! Very good detail of the R4.
Thank you for making such a clear and easy to follow video.
Great video. Mine was leaking at the pressure switch but was unsure if it could be fixed. Replaced the O ring and pulling a vacuum now. Hope it's fixed!
Thanks Michael. It should be fixed. Seems the switch o-ring goes out more often than the body O-rings!
Great explanation and easy tro understand
Great Instructional Video! I appreciate your attention to detail. Thanks.
+Jeremy Voshage
Thank you Jeremy. I appreciate your comment! Glad it helped you.
Excellent video, thumbs up!!
Awesome tutorial video. Thanks a lot. Got 3 leaky compressors of that kind for my GMC jimmy 1988. I just want to know the part numbers and where to buy the following.
1. Seal kit
2. Silicon gel
3. Shaft seal installation tool (the plastic one)
4. Clutch re-installation tool
Thank you and more tutorial videos! 👍👍👍
This was an excellent "how to" video, but you made the repair look too easy. Good job. Keep making videos.
I grew up in Ft. Walton Beach 😎👍
Getting that shaft seal out is a bit of an issue. The seal removal tool I had did not work so I wound up punching some holes in it with a sharp punch then hooking it with a pick tool. Luckily the seal is so thick. nothing really gets in the compressor when making holes.
+Ghetto Wagon Yeah that seal can be a pain in the butt. I didn't show it, but I have a modified pair of snap ring pliers that will reach over the shaft and expand to grip the inside diameter of the seal. Another method that works is to remove the snap ring from the seal, then pressurize the compressor with air to expel it.
davida1hiwaaynet
Awesome. I like those ideas! I was thinking some retaining ring pliers (with the flat ends) Would be great, I didn't have any though. I ran around the car today. No leaks from mine.
Repair. dont trash stuff!
+Ghetto Wagon I hope to re-seal a V5 compressor soon and it has same seal setup. I will show the pliers I have. They were a Harbor Freight snap ring pliers that broke. So I ground them down and modified them into a seal puller.
davida1hiwaaynet
Awesome. I have a leaking HD6 from the shaft seal and it seems to be weeping from the case o rings I might try to play with that compressor once I get the new one on. The v5 is kinda similar. I believe those Case O rings leak on them too
Now I just have to figure out why I have 2 extra o-rings in my kit. I followed the entire video. Maybe for differences in different models/years?
Yessir; for different styles of ports. The earlier ones used o-rings and the later ones had Dowty seals. They used many different thicknesses of Dowty seals so those have to be bought in a separate kit.
Why not use the Pag oil when prelube that compressor before reassembly. Ive never heard tell using 30 w engine oil and silicone grease. Very good video. Thanks
Thanks, and glad you enjoyed the video. There are reasons for the stuff I used. More for the silicone grease than for the oil. But... PAG is harmful to your skin while working with the parts of the compressor. It also absorbs moisture and degrades from that moisture. For the mechanical parts, a touch of mineral oil is a great way to do it. One would normally use refrigerant oil, but I used what I had since it is compatible with the system in small amounts. The lowest temp in the car A/C is not cold enough to congeal this oil but I would never put it in a low-temp refrigeration system even for assembly lube.
As for the seal, the silicone grease is exceptional for allowing the seal to slide over the installer tool, plus it will stay on the shaft in the seal area, preventing corrosion from setting up in there during the life of the compressor. It also provides a better tactile feel for the seal outer o-ring when the seal presses past it. It's more costly than using oil, but it does a far better job.
This video and your knowledge of how to break it down was great, thanks, do you have others covering trouble shooting of the a/c system
Thank you! I appreciate it.
I do have some A/C repair videos where I explain some theory; but they aren't really troubleshooting videos. This is part 1 of a full system rebuild: ruclips.net/video/JVA5LPS34MA/видео.html
davida1hiwaaynet ok thanks, I'll keep watching for those other ones
Thank u much, sir! Excellent job!
What a performance
Bem detalhado, mas podia ter montado o lip seal no alojamento antes de parafusar a tampa no corpo do compressor, ficaria mais fácil a instalação.
Unfortunately, the seal installation tool (protector) does not fit through the needle roller bearing. A different tool might make this method work.
@@davida1hiwaaynetentendi, esses harrison r4 é raro aqui no brasil, tem mais o harrison v5 que equipa varios carros da GM.
Okay, I see you point fitting thru the needle brg. this thimble installer. The hyperlink shows ib ebay a very corse turns on surface if you magnify the photo so I think I'll have my friend make one on his CNC and I will design it for him.
That was a great video David, could the o-ring & lip-seal be installed in the hub before the hub being mounted to the compressor?
I don't see why you couldn't do it like that. Of course, It would still have to have the seal installer thimble tool used over the shaft, while the front plate with seal was installed as an assembly.
By the way, I'll use this comment as an opportunity to say this compressor is still working on the same charge put in it during the video!
great video. can you tell me what model this one is? is it a 434?
thanks for your great information
Dave, would you have had to change out those seals and o-rings if you went with POE, ester oil, instead of using the PAG, since POE is compatible with mineral oil? I'm switching my r12 over to either r134a or 152a and thinking to use the ester oil. I have the same compressor you have. I've seen your videos and read your forum advice for making the switchover. Would appreciate your comments on the POE.
Thanks for your good work. Very helpful!
اللهم صل وسلم وبارك على عبدك ورسولك محمدﷺ
Thanks for the reply, I have no thimble, do you think hot glue the keyway then shrink tubing over that instead?
No sir; unfortunately you will have to utilize the correct tool for this job. After thinking about how the R4 compressor is constructed, you won't be able to assemble the seal into the front housing first, because the bearing is in the front housing. That will prevent the seal protector, or any sort of shaft wrapping from passing through.
Here is an install tool: www.ebay.com/itm/153063098340
@@davida1hiwaaynet Dave, I finished the A/C. Earlier I found it was a snap to complete the hub housing first and drop it over the lip pilot insert tool was fast and simple. That 7- insertion tool kit is a beautiful purchase for this type of work give it a try.
Awesome video. Very knowledgeable, where do you get your parts from? You have part #'s?
Thanks Paula. I ordered the seal kits from an eBay seller "mobilemechanics"
www.ebay.com/usr/mobilemechanicsinc
Nice video. My newly acquired compressor (old) does not come with a pressure high switch open port. That port is totally closed off. Can I still install it into my truck. Will it hurt anything
Paul, the high pressure switch is a safety device and needs to function. The application your "new" compressor came from would have had a high pressure cutout switch located in the lines set, near the compressor. You will need to have one or the other type switch in the system. If none is present, it is possible for a burst hose or other dangerous failure to happen.
do you know how to replace the torrington bearing? does it press out of do you need a special puller?
I am confused at 18:46 you are using mineral oil to pre lube the compressor. I thought all the mineral oil has to be out so it does not mix with the PAG? I am new to car AC so please forgive if that is a dumb question. Or is it sealed from the actual pump so there is no mixing of oils going on.
+Dave WM It doesn't mix in that the HFC-152 won't carry it through the system, but a little bit of that oil in the system won't hurt anything.
PAG oil absorbs moisture out of the air, mineral oil much less so. So in this case I'd say it's a better assembly lube.
+compu85
This is true. If (for instance) PAG oil was used for assembly lubricant - the PAG oil would be exposed to air. There would be chemical degradation of the oil. It would cause corrosion. Then when the system was assembled, there would be degraded, corrosive oil trapped in the system. This would continue to attack the components starting from the very beginning.
The mineral oil will not degrade in contact with air (during assembly of the compressor). It will prevent corrosion. When the system is charged with PAG oil and HFC-152A, the small amount of mineral oil will slowly migrate through the system, but it does not have a chemical reaction with anything and it doesn't affect the operation of the system because it's a small amount.
+davida1hiwaaynet thanks for the update, trying to learn as much as I can.
I had wondered the same thing, until I remembered why the o-rings were being replaced. It seems at least one of the largest of the new o-rings is made from a different material than the material which went into the OEM o-rings. In the first minute of the video, it seems likely the new o-ring material will be compatible with both, mineral oil AND PAG, while the old 0-ring material was designed specifically to work well with mineral oil, but was engineered without any concern for PAG applications, I think.
Instead of changing the rings around the edge, can it be welded to prevent leaks?
In this case, no. The outer shell is steel, but the rest of the compressor is aluminum. Those two metals are not weldable to each other; and all soldering processes which can join the two are very costly.
Where can I get the 2 outer rings to purchase? And what’s the nature of the silicone paste? Can it be substituted with grease?
@@davirae3779 Here is a kit with all you need: www.ebay.com/itm/174080611243
The silicone paste is a lubricant which will not contaminate the system when some traces of it stay in the lines, and it won't swell or deteriorate the o-rings. Don't use grease, never.
Hey man thanks a lot for this and making the video. I appreciate you more than you’ll ever know. If it wasn’t for you I would be forking out some big dollars just to get a used one out here in Jamaica. Thanks again
Glad to help! I know things are hard to get outside the States. I had a job in Jamaica a year or so back and really enjoyed the food and culture while there. Didn't have much sight-seeing time but enjoyed it none-the-less.
I like the century air video better he seems more knowledgeable.just my opinion.not saying this video is bad,just saying I like the other one better is all!
Thanks for the feedback. I don't do this type of work all day every day and therefore don't perform it as fast as someone who does it every day. Most of my videos are geared towards doing things when you don't have access to all the specialty tools available to those who do this professionally. This is to help the advanced DIY people who don't want to purchase specialty tools for one job.
Having said that, the compressor from this video is still in operation today and has not required recharging in 6 years so it must not have been too bad of a job LOL.
Hi, can you give me the number of shaft sealer and dimensions?
I don't know the dimensions of the seal, but I do have a link to the parts needed. You can get them here:
www.ebay.com/itm/173366535630
Thanks for the link but the shipment from USA to Poland goes a long way, maybe I can choose from the generally available parts in Europe.
I'm fairly confident that the seal kit for this compressor would be available in Europe. These compressors were used in Mercedes-Benz as well, in the 1980's. The seal is a very special proprietary part just for these compressors. You may find it based on that application.
I have never seen such a compressor in European cars. Getting new parts for old cars is very heavy and often neivatable.
where did you get that plate that you clamp to the compreossor
I'm trying to figure out which plate you're talking of. Can you post the exact time in the video where I use this?
39:11 all so right in the beginning it lay in front of r4 compressor right in Harrison R4 Radial Air Conditioning Compressor Re-Sea
It's a little metal plate with two rubber discs on it? That is a blanking plate. It caps off and seals the compressor so that dirt won't go in it.
where you get the did blanking plate
In the past, I bought another compressor from the parts shop. It had this plate. I kept the plate for a service tool. :)
awesome now if i can just find a junk r4 compressor :-(
Junkyard, Ebay or Craigslist is good to start.
Informational video, however I don't feel confident enough to do this lol autozone here I come