Ahh, the good ol' A6! The best (and first, to the best of my knowledge) swash-plate compressor ever made. The early model "Frigidaire" units had cast iron piston rings, and the carbon seal ran on a lapped cast iron seat rather than the ceramic seat that later versions used. These were the best versions IMO. Later units used plastic bands as piston rings. Not sure why the transition was made, other than perhaps for noise? Their 12.3cu. in. displacement meant that they could keep suction pressure down, even at idle with high heat loads. Vehicles with A6's running R-12 would freeze you out, even on a dry 120° day or a 100% humidity 104° day. The A6 is one of the three best compressor designs ever. The others are the York 206, 209, 210 series (and the functionally equivalent Tecumseh HG series, as well as the mini-York and mini-Tecumseh units) and the Chrysler RV2. All "old" designs. The latter two are essentially identical in design to stationary reciprocating compressors, whether open drive, semi-hermetic, or hermetic. Guys mistakenly believe "modern" axial piston compressors (which all trace their lineage back to the A6 design from 1962 - so much for "modern") are more efficient than the York, Tecumseh, and Chrysler RV2 twin cylinder reciprocating designs, but that's not the case. If it were, stationary compressor manufacturers, who have been under pressure for decades to improve the efficiency of AC and refrigeration systems, would have switched to axial piston designs like the A6 or Sanden long ago. But, they never did. And they certainly researched the designs. No matter what they did, the standard recip designs still had better efficiency, durability, and life span. In the end they went to scrolls, but even today recips are still used in many stationary refrigeration applications due to their higher efficiency in many medium and low temp system designs. Scrolls tend to not gain an efficiency advantage until system sizes climb above 2-1/2 to 3 tons or so. FWIW, the carbon-ceramic seal may weep a bit of oil, but it has the advantage of not eroding the input shaft over time. Because the lip seal rides directly on the shaft it will slowly wear into the shaft. Eventually this may render the shaft no longer able to seal. My preference is to run the carbon-ceramic seal, and put a felt ring on top of the ceramic after the snap ring is installed to soak up the weepage.
Thanks for the tips! I just replaced the O rings and shaft seal on the original A6 compressor in my 1984 Chevy dually today, didn't have any problems at all. After 32 years the shaft seal finally had enough and was leaking bad, they sure made stuff to last back then. The only special tools I used were the clutch remover/installer and the shaft seal remover/installer. I also used a pair of pliers that were made to get to the snap ring that fits against the ceramic half of the seal. My Grandfather used to work on cars and trucks years ago and they were part of his AC tool set. I charged the system with R12 and the thermometer in the center dash vent gets down to 34 degrees with the blower on medium speed at an idle. Fixed it just in time for the south Texas heat!
That's another reason I like the carbon seals, and the old compressor designs. They last an amazingly long time. I see 40-50 year old York and Tecumseh compressors that finally end up needing a new seal. Put a new shaft seal kit in 'em, and they're good to go!
@WTFChuk my A6 in my 70 chevelle still pumps cold air but it is loud, any idea what it could be? I live in PA and would love to find someone that rebuilds these local, or atleast knows what they are looking at internally. Seems like Original Air is the only act in town, their repair facility in Texas I believe
I’m so grateful you made these videos. One of your videos help me with my 91 Zr1, and saved me a ton of money in this video is going to help me with my 75 Corvette. I can’t thank you enough for your knowledge and your wonderful kits.
Thank you for the video, it was key in me doing this myself. TIP for those without the seal tool, I used a large piece of heat shrink over the end of the shaft, and it allowed the seal to slide past the keyway and threads. Just remove it with a pick after
Hello Bob, I have just rebuilt my A6 compressor from my 65 Gto. Thank you. The video was great! All went together perfectly. Question: how much oil goes in the empty compressor? What hind of lio for R12 or R134? And how do you fill it?
Total system oil capacity is 10 oz. on a clean flushed system. If not its a educated guess as to how much to add. I would use PAG 150 for 134A or mineral for R-12. If the compressor is off the car, oil can be added via the drain plug on the side or suction inlet of the compressor. If its installed it can be injected before charging.
Just had a question , the original shaft seal used a two piece ceramic and carbon seal, the spring loaded carbon seal pushed up on the ceramic piece and pushed it into the C clip and the area of the O ring. My question is if you use the new double lip seal and there is no spring load from the carbon on the seal how is the new double lip seal held in place, with no spring pressure would the new seal not have pressure pushing on the C lip and the new seal would be loose in the bore. Oh and best video of the A6 ever, Thank.
The new seal fits in the same location that the ceramic seal would have seated. So it does bottom out and is retained by the clip just like the original.
Do you have a video on how to change the clock position of the wire hook up on the A6 from 2:00 to 10:00 o’clock? On this video it appears you have removed the complete front assembly down to the housing so it would appear that you can do the whole project from the front without taking the complete compressor. Any advise or instruction would be greatly appreciated. Also after your seal replace on the A6 in the video how do you oil to make ready for charging with R134 after the compressor is put back on the car.
Take a look at our GM clutch removal and installation video. Once the coil snap ring is removed you simply rotate the coil and reinstall snap ring. If compressor is on bench, oil is poured through drain on the bottom. Use 7/16 wrench to remove plug. If its on the car, oil will need to be injected while charging.
Great video, haven't seen one of these compressors apart for years. I have 5 cars with that style A-6 and most of them need seals. You don't mention what type of oil you are using to lube the O-rings. I plan to refill mine with R 12, any idea where to get compatible oil?
@@legostar55 NO NO NO!!!! Do NOT use food-grade mineral oil from the grocery store! Just because R-12 systems use mineral oil does not mean any product labeled "mineral oil" will work. It has to be the right type and viscosity of mineral oil. Food grade mineral oil is neither the right type nor the right viscosity. For R-12 service, the A6 compressor can use either naphthenic or parrifinic mineral oil, but naphthenic oil is preferred for a variety of reasons. The most important criteria is that it must have the right viscosity. 500 - 525 SUS (ISO 100) is the correct viscosity for mineral oil. Besides naphthenic mineral oil, the hard-to-find ISO 100 alkylbenzene oil is also very suitable for R-12 use. You can also use ISO 100 POE (polyolester, what auto AC guys lazily refer to as "ester") oil for R-12, but being as it's hygroscopic and not necessary it is best to stick to mineral (or alkylbenzene) oil for R-12 use. If the system is destined to use R-134a, and has the proper neoprene or HNBR seals, then either ISO 100 POE or ISO 100, 125, or 150 PAG oil can be used. Never use PAG oil in an R-12 system. If you only need a quart of mineral oil, which is the case for most people, then Ebay or your local auto parts store is the place to go. On Ebay, first search for "AC Delco compressor oil 15-117". That is OE GM 525 SUS naphthenic mineral oil. If that doesn't show any results, search for "refrigeration mineral oil". The two most common ones on there will be Four Seasons part # 59000 and Johnsens "Freeze" part # 6913. Both are 500 SUS naphthenic mineral oil. You may also see "Temperature Control parrafinic mineral oil" with a part # 59001, which as it's name says is parrafinic rather than naphthenic. It is also approx. 500 SUS. Any of those will work, but as mentioned the naphthenic oils are better. If you want or need a gallon, or you want to know that you are getting the best, new oil, then you have a couple options. The two brands of mineral oil in the refrigeration & AC industry are Suniso and Nu-Calgon. Both are naphthenic mineral oils. For a 500 SUS viscosity you need either Suniso 5GS or Nu-Calgon C-5s. Both are identical and have been serving the industry for decades, and neither is better than the other. Your choices for purchase is to either have a buddy in the HVAC/R business get you a gallon from a local supply house, or go to an online store like Supplyhouse.com and buy a gallon there: www.supplyhouse.com/Parker-Hannifin-475332-L320-5GS-SUNISO-Mineral-Refrigeration-Oil-500-SUS-ISO-100 Again, do NOT use food-grade mineral oil, motor oil, or any other kind of oil. Use the proper stuff. It's easy to get and not expensive.
Ahh, the good ol' A6! The best (and first, to the best of my knowledge) swash-plate compressor ever made. The early model "Frigidaire" units had cast iron piston rings, and the carbon seal ran on a lapped cast iron seat rather than the ceramic seat that later versions used. These were the best versions IMO. Later units used plastic bands as piston rings. Not sure why the transition was made, other than perhaps for noise? Their 12.3cu. in. displacement meant that they could keep suction pressure down, even at idle with high heat loads. Vehicles with A6's running R-12 would freeze you out, even on a dry 120° day or a 100% humidity 104° day.
The A6 is one of the three best compressor designs ever. The others are the York 206, 209, 210 series (and the functionally equivalent Tecumseh HG series, as well as the mini-York and mini-Tecumseh units) and the Chrysler RV2. All "old" designs. The latter two are essentially identical in design to stationary reciprocating compressors, whether open drive, semi-hermetic, or hermetic. Guys mistakenly believe "modern" axial piston compressors (which all trace their lineage back to the A6 design from 1962 - so much for "modern") are more efficient than the York, Tecumseh, and Chrysler RV2 twin cylinder reciprocating designs, but that's not the case. If it were, stationary compressor manufacturers, who have been under pressure for decades to improve the efficiency of AC and refrigeration systems, would have switched to axial piston designs like the A6 or Sanden long ago. But, they never did. And they certainly researched the designs. No matter what they did, the standard recip designs still had better efficiency, durability, and life span. In the end they went to scrolls, but even today recips are still used in many stationary refrigeration applications due to their higher efficiency in many medium and low temp system designs. Scrolls tend to not gain an efficiency advantage until system sizes climb above 2-1/2 to 3 tons or so.
FWIW, the carbon-ceramic seal may weep a bit of oil, but it has the advantage of not eroding the input shaft over time. Because the lip seal rides directly on the shaft it will slowly wear into the shaft. Eventually this may render the shaft no longer able to seal. My preference is to run the carbon-ceramic seal, and put a felt ring on top of the ceramic after the snap ring is installed to soak up the weepage.
Thanks for the video, We successfully resealed our A6 and it works perfect!
Thanks for the tips! I just replaced the O rings and shaft seal on the original A6 compressor in my 1984 Chevy dually today, didn't have any problems at all. After 32 years the shaft seal finally had enough and was leaking bad, they sure made stuff to last back then. The only special tools I used were the clutch remover/installer and the shaft seal remover/installer. I also used a pair of pliers that were made to get to the snap ring that fits against the ceramic half of the seal. My Grandfather used to work on cars and trucks years ago and they were part of his AC tool set. I charged the system with R12 and the thermometer in the center dash vent gets down to 34 degrees with the blower on medium speed at an idle. Fixed it just in time for the south Texas heat!
That's another reason I like the carbon seals, and the old compressor designs. They last an amazingly long time. I see 40-50 year old York and Tecumseh compressors that finally end up needing a new seal. Put a new shaft seal kit in 'em, and they're good to go!
@WTFChuk my A6 in my 70 chevelle still pumps cold air but it is loud, any idea what it could be? I live in PA and would love to find someone that rebuilds these local, or atleast knows what they are looking at internally. Seems like Original Air is the only act in town, their repair facility in Texas I believe
I’m so grateful you made these videos. One of your videos help me with my 91 Zr1, and saved me a ton of money in this video is going to help me with my 75 Corvette. I can’t thank you enough for your knowledge and your wonderful kits.
Thank you for the video, it was key in me doing this myself. TIP for those without the seal tool, I used a large piece of heat shrink over the end of the shaft, and it allowed the seal to slide past the keyway and threads. Just remove it with a pick after
Hello Bob, I have just rebuilt my A6 compressor from my 65 Gto. Thank you. The video was great! All went together perfectly. Question: how much oil goes in the empty compressor? What hind of lio for R12 or R134? And how do you fill it?
Total system oil capacity is 10 oz. on a clean flushed system. If not its a educated guess as to how much to add. I would use PAG 150 for 134A or mineral for R-12. If the compressor is off the car, oil can be added via the drain plug on the side or suction inlet of the compressor. If its installed it can be injected before charging.
@bobsteinmann5793 thank you Bob!
Rear head to shell stud nuts 23 ft lbs - straight out of the Chevrolet service manual. Great video!
Just had a question , the original shaft seal used a two piece ceramic and carbon seal, the spring loaded carbon seal pushed up on the ceramic piece and pushed it into the C clip and the area of the O ring. My question is if you use the new double lip seal and there is no spring load from the carbon on the seal how is the new double lip seal held in place, with no spring pressure would the new seal not have pressure pushing on the C lip and the new seal would be loose in the bore. Oh and best video of the A6 ever, Thank.
The new seal fits in the same location that the ceramic seal would have seated. So it does bottom out and is retained by the clip just like the original.
This is an excellent video. I'll be calling soon for replacement seals.
That was an absolutely fantastic video! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge.
great video for the A6 compressor.
Can you explain why on the double seal the ceramic isn't used. Thank you and very detailed and informational video.
The lip seal seals directly on the shaft. The carbon seal seals against the ceramic piece.
What type of tool removed the pulley clutch ? Power steering pulley tool ?
My compressor is seized, I'm guessing that means there is an issue with the gut pack. Can it be rebuilt and do you have a video on that?
How do you clean the internal parts of the compressor? Will brake cleaner work?
Do you happen to have a double v belt clutch for it?
What kind of oil is that?
Would love to know the oil used
Do you have a video on how to change the clock position of the wire hook up on the A6 from 2:00 to 10:00 o’clock? On this video it appears you have removed the complete front assembly down to the housing so it would appear that you can do the whole project from the front without taking the complete compressor. Any advise or instruction would be greatly appreciated. Also after your seal replace on the A6 in the video how do you oil to make ready for charging with R134 after the compressor is put back on the car.
Take a look at our GM clutch removal and installation video. Once the coil snap ring is removed you simply rotate the coil and reinstall snap ring. If compressor is on bench, oil is poured through drain on the bottom. Use 7/16 wrench to remove plug. If its on the car, oil will need to be injected while charging.
If you are just resealing the A6 compressor and replaceing the desacant bag how much oil should you add back in to the system
that depends on your car system, check the specs
Great video, haven't seen one of these compressors apart for years. I have 5 cars with that style A-6 and most of them need seals. You don't mention what type of oil you are using to lube the O-rings. I plan to refill mine with R 12, any idea where to get compatible oil?
Mineral oil from any grocery store
@@legostar55 NO NO NO!!!! Do NOT use food-grade mineral oil from the grocery store! Just because R-12 systems use mineral oil does not mean any product labeled "mineral oil" will work. It has to be the right type and viscosity of mineral oil. Food grade mineral oil is neither the right type nor the right viscosity.
For R-12 service, the A6 compressor can use either naphthenic or parrifinic mineral oil, but naphthenic oil is preferred for a variety of reasons. The most important criteria is that it must have the right viscosity. 500 - 525 SUS (ISO 100) is the correct viscosity for mineral oil. Besides naphthenic mineral oil, the hard-to-find ISO 100 alkylbenzene oil is also very suitable for R-12 use. You can also use ISO 100 POE (polyolester, what auto AC guys lazily refer to as "ester") oil for R-12, but being as it's hygroscopic and not necessary it is best to stick to mineral (or alkylbenzene) oil for R-12 use.
If the system is destined to use R-134a, and has the proper neoprene or HNBR seals, then either ISO 100 POE or ISO 100, 125, or 150 PAG oil can be used. Never use PAG oil in an R-12 system.
If you only need a quart of mineral oil, which is the case for most people, then Ebay or your local auto parts store is the place to go. On Ebay, first search for "AC Delco compressor oil 15-117". That is OE GM 525 SUS naphthenic mineral oil.
If that doesn't show any results, search for "refrigeration mineral oil". The two most common ones on there will be Four Seasons part # 59000 and Johnsens "Freeze" part # 6913. Both are 500 SUS naphthenic mineral oil. You may also see "Temperature Control parrafinic mineral oil" with a part # 59001, which as it's name says is parrafinic rather than naphthenic. It is also approx. 500 SUS. Any of those will work, but as mentioned the naphthenic oils are better.
If you want or need a gallon, or you want to know that you are getting the best, new oil, then you have a couple options. The two brands of mineral oil in the refrigeration & AC industry are Suniso and Nu-Calgon. Both are naphthenic mineral oils. For a 500 SUS viscosity you need either Suniso 5GS or Nu-Calgon C-5s. Both are identical and have been serving the industry for decades, and neither is better than the other. Your choices for purchase is to either have a buddy in the HVAC/R business get you a gallon from a local supply house, or go to an online store like Supplyhouse.com and buy a gallon there:
www.supplyhouse.com/Parker-Hannifin-475332-L320-5GS-SUNISO-Mineral-Refrigeration-Oil-500-SUS-ISO-100
Again, do NOT use food-grade mineral oil, motor oil, or any other kind of oil. Use the proper stuff. It's easy to get and not expensive.
I cant find the video of how to replace the clutch and 12v coil. Where is it??
Why the hell didn’t you use the seal protector tool on the first seal ? ,
I'd consider using a plastic hammer to hammer things loose, video is too fast for my taste, but great info.
Hi I am unable to find your video on removing the clutch on the a6 compressor
what sort of oil is used in the assembly of the reseal ?
Mineral oil
Can anyone send in their compressor to have it rebuilt by you? If so, how much?
Does anyone know where I can find a manual of this compressor is like to print out a pdf or something for my neighbor. Thanks!
GM service manuals from the 60s and early 70s all had breakdowns and rebuild instructions in the a/c section.
Very good vid Helped alot