I have been an auto mechanic for 14 years and never actually new the internal movements of an A.C. compressor. It is not at all what I imagined. Thank you for your video. You learn more and more each day. I still don't understand why some manufactures think that this small chunk of aluminum and steel is worth 600+ bucks.
I know this is years after you asked, but it's because of the tight tolerances you need on the internal components. Machining is much more expensive when variation is measured in microns.
Thank you for this so well put video. I remember being told by my auto repair instructor many years ago: "if you suspect the compressor is not working right, just replace it with a brand new one" by you sharing this video , now I can see the inside of the a/c compressor. Thanks again.
Great video , I just realized I was the last person to comment on your video. But if you don't this type of AC work on a frequent basis, you sometimes forget the fundamentals. So this was a great review !! Thanks so much !!
Thanks for taking it all the way apart. If you only want to replace the electromagnetic clutch, for example, and foolishly remove the bottom-most snap ring that secures shaft seal in place, exciting things become possible. I did it and didn’t firmly seat the snap ring all the way around. They can be hard to get in and out, especially the large snap ring that secures the magnetic clutch ring in place. What I found was that after putting in about a full can of refrigerant and forcing the compressor on, something had to give; what gave was that snap ring holding the shaft seal in place and when it exploded, it sounded like a bomb. Refrigerant, Green Dye and PAG oil covered about half of the engine compartment, and I felt sure the engine would go next, but all was quiet after that. It took me a month to look at it again, and I took the compressor half way apart, found the problem, fixed the seal and snap ring and put it all back together. I’ll recharge it any day now, just you wait and see.
So I'm going through our automotive A/C class at a tech school and we're told right away that we will not be taking apart any compressors in the field because they will always be replaced straight away. Fair enough. But then they say that for this very reason we will not even have a display compressor for you to take apart, so this video you made is the very first time I ever saw a compressor being taken apart, so thank you very much.
Jgizzy -redacted- Yeah, only Mexico gets to see inside. I'm not surprised but you would think, especially with the cost of some of these, they would have people learn to rebuild them. They could make a rebuild kit for most of them for $25-50 and it would take 30-60 minutes to rebuild one. Thanks for watching.
I hope your not paying too much for this class, this is the problem with many of these schools today, some ass-hat decides you don't need to know some fundamental stuff.
Unbelievable, I have so much more respect for these things now. Never would have imagined they were recips. I was expecting a centrifugal compressor. Thanks for the excellent video!
Thanks for showing us what's inside a car compressor. I was wondering how the rotary motion of the AC pulley is mechanically connected to the pistons needed to compress the refrigerant, and your video showed it clearly.
I think it would stall as a water pump. The refrigerant in the compressor is a gas and I know if you are recharging it to fast you can "slug" the compressor and damage it. Very neat to see the mechanical principles going on inside.
excellent video, well explained and detailed. Ive a 2002 altima, compressor clutch stopped engaging, plus I can hear the bearing noise. Ill have it replaced, then Ill disassemble...using the knowledge learned here. Thank you.
The front plate(clutch plate) is directly connected to the center compressor shaft with a key way and bolt. The serpentine pulley actually has the bearing and is free spinning.
Guess each auto manufacturer does their a/c compressor differently. I took apart the burnt up one from my old 93 Grand Voyager, and it had 5 pistons, and three metal plates on each end (one of them was really thick).
yep! im gonna echo what everyone else has said. ive never had the opportunity to see in one before. no idea how they worked. now i have a bit more understanding. thanks for taking the time to show us.
I opened a denso compressor and the pistons come slightly out of the cylinders and are hitting the plate causing a rattling sound. Also the pistons barely move down the cylinders before coming back up very strange how can they compress if they barely go down the cylinders?
thanks-I do appreciate all your feedback.I did know that.It is my daughters car.Not sure if she had it on the defrost setting when she said that.I do know I have a alt. starting to go.Ripple is high on it an lights dimming and blower fluctuating, so I have to tackle that job also.those look to be a pain to pull!
This really helped me understand what's going on inside, it's very similar in construction to an aircraft hydraulic pump with its pistons and swash plate. Thanks, Bill.
Awesome video, I drive a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5L, I have a rough idle when the car is in drive but at a stop light. I believe I've narrowed it down. The low suction line on the AC has been leaking for a while, I'm going to replace it and ad AC oil and refrigerant. Having said that I was also thinking that I may replace the AC clutch pully bearing. In your experience would it benefit a tare down like in this video and clean it out with brake fluid?
You should be able to physically see your clutch engage and spin. I'm wondering if it is slipping. The belt should have a spring tension pulley so it is virtually impossible to over-tighten. I would also make sure your electric fan is kicking on when your AC kicks on(Should be able to see and hear it).
Ok-Your help greatly appreciated.It's amazing how someone told the guy his bearings are bad in the compressor!When I bought my car it had two new belts on it that is why I was not leaning towards a belt at the time.It started to make the noise not long after I go it.It does make the noise without air on and gets worse when the car is put in gear which would make sense since the belt is under heavier load.Does the glazing of the pulleys of what you said is the Belt spray need to be addressed?
Yeah, if r134a is leaking out then oil is as well. You can buy an inline oiler that you pour oil into then hook it up between the can and the fill port. Or you can add part of a can of pressurized oil. Or they sell cans of r134a with oil mixed in. The backyard way is to just pour some oil down the hose you are connecting to the can and fill port. It will push the oil in with the r134a.
When the bearing is going out it will make a constant rumble/grinding sound. You can hear it better if you remove the belt and spin the AC clutch pulley by hand. I would think the rust colored stuff on your belt is spray belt rejuvenation. When you get a screeching belt you can go buy a $3 can of belt anti slip/rejuvenation. It lasts for a couple weeks but the belt will start squealing again. I'm sure this is what someone did. Fine sand paper will remove it from the pulleys.
Really Cool Video, and I finally have a much better appreciation of what is going on inside the compressor. But I also have a question for you...if one is adding a can or two of R134a every couple of years to replenish what has leaked out of the system, do you think also a substantial amount of oil has also leaked out with it?. And if so, is their any way you would recommend to add back a couple of ounces of new PAG oil back into the system to help protect the needed lubrication?
I installed a new AC compressor for my vehicle. During the servicing phase, the high was up and low was trying to operate a little. Anyway it started squeaking bad. During the service face , I jumped the compressor with thr high side, as mentioned in the beginning (maybe 15 minutes). Do you think bearing might be bad, and the compressor section is fine. Just curious. I have a new one but if the bearing is bad , I can repair and install on other car. This compressor had 4.0 ounces of oil before operation. Sorry about the long message, I just enjoy fixing cars. GOD BLESS
My wife and I just watched! Loved it. Why would I need to take my compressor apart? Also if I had to take it apart would I use the hammer to separate the parts?
Ok- got it.Just trying to figure out my problem.03 Mazda protege.Air is cold and compressor works fine.Have this on again off again screeching noise when the car is started and getslouder when put in gear.Turning on air or even heat makes it louder.Ruled out the alt. and it's belt.Tightenening the A/C and pwr steering belt seems to help quiet it.Do not think it is the pwr steering pump.Comp. pulley vbearing feels ok, but I am suspecting it is making the noise since it turns all the time.
pretty interesting! looks like it would easier and cheaper to rebuild than being gouged by the mechanics shops or parts houses if the replacement kits were readily available!
Good video, but does the front plate have a bushing or some typr of roller bearing where the shaft comes out?You did not show that to close or mention it.thanks
At 3:58 you can see the front housing bearing real good and if you look in the background at 4:20 you can see the bearing in the rear housing. This allows the center shaft to spin and it directly connected to the front clutch plate.
Do you think it would be possible to connect a 12-Volt motor by accurately machining an opening in the back of the compressor housing and machining the compressor shaft to accept the motor shaft? A high pressure seal I'm guessing, also.
Thanks for all your fedback.I think I can rule out the internal bearings .Just wondering if you don't mind watching a video here on the Tube.It is called Mazda 626 A/C compressor bearing noise I believe.See what you think it is.The sound this car makes is identical to my Mazda.Guy thinks it is bearings and someone told him to put oil in the compressor.I think he's wrong
Hi ، good video, Is there any solenoid or sensor , inside the compressor, or any electrical component, other than the magnetic clutch. Generally , do compressors, differ one from another. Thanks
Nice video man! I have a question too. My car idles at 950rpm when the AC is on ,if i increases the rpm to like 2000-2500 will it cool faster ? Does the compressor's piston movement increases with the increasing rpms?
It would flow more refrigerant, but if your car is sitting still you won't get more cooling. This is because the condenser won't have enough air running across it.
thanks-We bought this car two years ago and the belts were brand new on the car.Shortley after owning it is when the screeching noise started.One thing I did notice is that the crank pulley, A/C pulley were coated/impregnated it seems in a rust colored dust.The belt is also impregnated with this.The clutch assy.had this coated on it and I had cleaned this off.I tried to clean it off the pulleys but it would not come off the pulleys.Any way I could clean it off the pulleys and belt?
Lightly sanding the pulleys with 120 or higher grit will remove glazing and contaminants from pulleys. Once a belt is glazed over from slipping it is junk.
Is it normal that you can only spin the compressor shaft by hand a few revolutions before it feels locked up? Could it be because it has built up compression
The AC compressor turns on with the Defrost setting to cycle the refrigerant during the cold months. This keeps everything lubricated in the compressor.
is there a way to make the piston's compression better when it gets older. why the ac capacity goes less over period of time. is the replacement the only option as a whole. thnks for the video. its short but very informative, i enjoyed it )))))
Sadly, no. If is was running in some other environment, a thicker oil would increase the compression. But a thicker oil would adversely effect the cooling ability of the refrigerant, so that's not an option.
Any chance you remember what car that compressor was off of? I have a modified c4500 and need that exact clutch cover but can't find a part number for the compressor or clutch... Thanks for the video!
I have leak from my ac compressor caprice 96 I think from rubber seals I tried epoxy to stop leak I put epoxy all around this seal and it failed to stop leak I think because high pressure can I weld it with 4043 aluminum with my arc welding from outside all around seals ?
Helo sir , I am very influenced with your video and get some inspiration to do work and I need some help of your want to kw from where I can buy internal parts of ac compressor please do revert as soon as possible thanks
OK Cool....I am mechanical and about 85 percent sure I might get that thing back together but just how much of a compressor can I get parts for at my local part store? Are there kits available to the public to rebuild these or what? Me and a friend tried dumping some cans of 134 into my daughters car. The refrigarant went somewhere and there is power to the compressor but its not cycling. Clutch part is my guess. Thanks
I have taken apart a V7 Delphi Compressor. I bought a replacement Gasket Repair Kit Kt-GMV7N. This Kit has 5 smaller O rings. I'm sure 4 of these go on the Control valve but I can't find where the other O ring is to be used! Also, The shaft needle bearing-SCH 1010, behind the shaft seal needs to be replaced! Can you tell me where I can buy this bearing?
Ther was alot of dust on the clutch.That is what I thought it was.The bearing does not runble at all,feels smooth.Could it be the internal bearings on the compressor?Not sue if they would schreech and Squeell?
Hi there let me ask you a question I just got my ac compressor replaced on my altima 2007 but it doesn't cool like the factory one I got it from autozone and suprasinly it was the same brand as the factory one ,valeo by the way ,any advice please thanks.
What happens when the pistons wear down? Are there honing tools and replacement pistons? Or at that point does the compressor just get tossed and replaced?
Nice video. I'd like to know is there anything special about it? why is it so huge? It looks like much smaller compressor could be made that will give the same pressure. And the magnetic clutch seems too bulky too. Are the RPMs regulated by clutch slip? Thanks for any info
It has to be large to move large amounts of refrigerant at all engine rpms including idle. The clutch is sized to the pulley and the larger diameter it is the more leverage it has to spin the compressor. The compressor could be made smaller if the engine spun at high rpms always.
sixtyfiveford hmm, so compressor RPMs are not regulated, but are the same as the engine(times pulley ratio)? if so, why the need for magnetic clutch? why dont they use servo and mechanical lock with synchro? or the power to engage it could come from oil pressure or vacuum. It would have fraction of the mass. And you can allways gear it up to get more RPMs, so it could be made smaller. Save space and weight.
Nope the compressor rpm is not regulated the clutch does this. The magnetic clutch serves two purposes: one you don't always want the AC compressor running(AC not turned on) and secondly to control the pressure. More on the controlling pressure: The compressor will cycle on and off to maintain a steady line pressure, the faster the engine is running the shorter amount of time the compressor needs to be on while it needs to be on longer at engine idle to build the same pressure. So it will cycle on and compress/pump refrigerant into the line going to the condenser. It will compress it to a high psi, approx 250psi and then shut off. The pressure will bleed down as the refrigerant escapes into the condenser. Once it hits approx 175psi the compressor clutch kicks back on turning the compressor and pumps back up to approx 250psi. It keeps cycling like this indefinitely. An electromagnet is very reliable and has virtually no fail points. Engine vacuum varies greatly from 0-18 inhg while driving, so if your accelerating the vacuum would drop to 0 and your ac would kick off. Oil pressure is around 40psi and could work be you need a way to switch it on and off. The most ideal thing to make either vacuum or oil pressure work would be an electric solenoid (electromagnet). So basically you'll just add a higher fail point and over complicate a basic system.Smaller, There are different designs and this is one of the smaller. The smaller the compressor, the faster it will need to spin to move the same volume. With this comes a LOT more heat and severely reduces the life. Theoretically if you needed to spin it twice as fast it would only have half the life but in reality even less with the added heat. So instead of a compressor lasting 150,000miles in a car it would get 50-75,000 miles.
So quick question you mentioned another snap ring down at 1 minute and 35 seconds into the video that right before you start to remove the external bolts. Exactly what internal seal are you referring to? And is there a name for that particular seal and because the compressor actually houses a magnet that creates the charge.. is it a magnetic seal that you are referring to?
It just won't cool or it will cool poorly. It really shouldn't damage anything. AC relies on High pressure gas transitioning to Low pressure to supply cooling. By adding to much it makes the entire system high pressure.
I have been an auto mechanic for 14 years and never actually new the internal movements of an A.C. compressor. It is not at all what I imagined. Thank you for your video. You learn more and more each day. I still don't understand why some manufactures think that this small chunk of aluminum and steel is worth 600+ bucks.
Cost about 230 on amazon
and all i need is a $5 seal
$1790+gst from Nissan AU for one for my patrol.
300 and something for my 03 avalanche at AutoZone. I'm sure at the dealer it will be more then 300
I know this is years after you asked, but it's because of the tight tolerances you need on the internal components. Machining is much more expensive when variation is measured in microns.
Thank you for this so well put video. I remember being told by my auto repair instructor many years ago: "if you suspect the compressor is not working right, just replace it with a brand new one"
by you sharing this video , now I can see the inside of the a/c compressor. Thanks again.
Excellent video. No long introduction, clear and simple explaination and teaches more than any text book could!
Great work my friend!
Thanks.
Great video , I just realized I was the last person to comment on your video. But if you don't this type of AC work on a frequent basis, you sometimes forget the fundamentals. So this was a great review !! Thanks so much !!
Thanks for taking it all the way apart. If you only want to replace the electromagnetic clutch, for example, and foolishly remove the bottom-most snap ring that secures shaft seal in place, exciting things become possible. I did it and didn’t firmly seat the snap ring all the way around. They can be hard to get in and out, especially the large snap ring that secures the magnetic clutch ring in place. What I found was that after putting in about a full can of refrigerant and forcing the compressor on, something had to give; what gave was that snap ring holding the shaft seal in place and when it exploded, it sounded like a bomb. Refrigerant, Green Dye and PAG oil covered about half of the engine compartment, and I felt sure the engine would go next, but all was quiet after that. It took me a month to look at it again, and I took the compressor half way apart, found the problem, fixed the seal and snap ring and put it all back together. I’ll recharge it any day now, just you wait and see.
That makes for some excitement.
So I'm going through our automotive A/C class at a tech school and we're told right away that we will not be taking apart any compressors in the field because they will always be replaced straight away. Fair enough. But then they say that for this very reason we will not even have a display compressor for you to take apart, so this video you made is the very first time I ever saw a compressor being taken apart, so thank you very much.
Jgizzy -redacted- Yeah, only Mexico gets to see inside. I'm not surprised but you would think, especially with the cost of some of these, they would have people learn to rebuild them. They could make a rebuild kit for most of them for $25-50 and it would take 30-60 minutes to rebuild one. Thanks for watching.
I hope your not paying too much for this class, this is the problem with many of these schools today, some ass-hat decides you don't need to know some fundamental stuff.
I work at a dealer and now a days we replace the whole thing. But i would like to rebuild thing to Not just replace them.
@GROMEXCR22 especially OEM Original
Parts, best quality...
@sixtyfiveford
great line very true,
Only Mexico gets to look inside..............
Unbelievable, I have so much more respect for these things now. Never would have imagined they were recips. I was expecting a centrifugal compressor. Thanks for the excellent video!
That is so cool! I will never look at the AC pump as a hunk of metal again as it is quite interesting the way it is engineered!
Dan Targa Thanks for watching. It's always fun taking them apart.
Thanks for showing us what's inside a car compressor. I was wondering how the rotary motion of the AC pulley is mechanically connected to the pistons needed to compress the refrigerant, and your video showed it clearly.
Thanks for watching.
What a quick breakdown lesson on a compressor that was beautiful thank you.
I think it would stall as a water pump. The refrigerant in the compressor is a gas and I know if you are recharging it to fast you can "slug" the compressor and damage it. Very neat to see the mechanical principles going on inside.
excellent video, well explained and detailed. Ive a 2002 altima, compressor clutch stopped engaging, plus I can hear the bearing noise. Ill have it replaced, then Ill disassemble...using the knowledge learned here. Thank you.
The front plate(clutch plate) is directly connected to the center compressor shaft with a key way and bolt. The serpentine pulley actually has the bearing and is free spinning.
Always been curios how the compressor worked. Ingenious system to move pistons. Thanks.
Guess each auto manufacturer does their a/c compressor differently.
I took apart the burnt up one from my old 93 Grand Voyager, and it had 5 pistons, and three metal plates on each end (one of them was really thick).
hi thanks for showing i wonder what was wrong with the compressor because the parts all looks clean
all the best for you and family
yep! im gonna echo what everyone else has said. ive never had the opportunity to see in one before. no idea how they worked. now i have a bit more understanding. thanks for taking the time to show us.
I opened a denso compressor and the pistons come slightly out of the cylinders and are hitting the plate causing a rattling sound. Also the pistons barely move down the cylinders before coming back up very strange how can they compress if they barely go down the cylinders?
Of the 4 years i've done mechanic work on the side, i've never actually took an ac compressor apart, only read books/diagrams. Really cool!
thanks-I do appreciate all your feedback.I did know that.It is my daughters car.Not sure if she had it on the defrost setting when she said that.I do know I have a alt. starting to go.Ripple is high on it an lights dimming and blower fluctuating, so I have to tackle that job also.those look to be a pain to pull!
This really helped me understand what's going on inside, it's very similar in construction to an aircraft hydraulic pump with its pistons and swash plate. Thanks, Bill.
Thanks for watching.
Awesome video, I drive a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5L, I have a rough idle when the car is in drive but at a stop light. I believe I've narrowed it down. The low suction line on the AC has been leaking for a while, I'm going to replace it and ad AC oil and refrigerant. Having said that I was also thinking that I may replace the AC clutch pully bearing. In your experience would it benefit a tare down like in this video and clean it out with brake fluid?
You should be able to physically see your clutch engage and spin. I'm wondering if it is slipping. The belt should have a spring tension pulley so it is virtually impossible to over-tighten. I would also make sure your electric fan is kicking on when your AC kicks on(Should be able to see and hear it).
Ok-Your help greatly appreciated.It's amazing how someone told the guy his bearings are bad in the compressor!When I bought my car it had two new belts on it that is why I was not leaning towards a belt at the time.It started to make the noise not long after I go it.It does make the noise without air on and gets worse when the car is put in gear which would make sense since the belt is under heavier load.Does the glazing of the pulleys of what you said is the Belt spray need to be addressed?
Thanks for the video. Always wanted to know what the in the inside of the AC compressor
`
Yeah. Glad you liked the video.
What a nice design, i wondered how the pistons were driven.
A very compact unit.
Smashing tear down and explanation, thanks :-)
awesome video,thanks for taking the time to show us what's inside a compressor
Yeah, thanks for watching.
Yeah, if r134a is leaking out then oil is as well. You can buy an inline oiler that you pour oil into then hook it up between the can and the fill port. Or you can add part of a can of pressurized oil. Or they sell cans of r134a with oil mixed in.
The backyard way is to just pour some oil down the hose you are connecting to the can and fill port. It will push the oil in with the r134a.
great video got to know first time what is inside of a ac compressor
thanks man
Thanks.
I love the Swash plate movement.. It's the same movement as the Duke Engine. A pure sinusoidal motion, Much better than a crankshaft..
It's very neat to watch in action.
Amazing video. You are my today's hero. Thank you. I learnt something today. God Bless always.
Awesome. Thanks.
Great vid of disassembly. While pulling off the pulley, I broke off the snap ring groove, can I replace the part the bearing rides on?
Parts are not easy too find for most of these compressors
Came to see how the electromagnet came apart. Stayed for the whole thing - those insides are fascinating!
Thanks
When the bearing is going out it will make a constant rumble/grinding sound. You can hear it better if you remove the belt and spin the AC clutch pulley by hand.
I would think the rust colored stuff on your belt is spray belt rejuvenation. When you get a screeching belt you can go buy a $3 can of belt anti slip/rejuvenation. It lasts for a couple weeks but the belt will start squealing again. I'm sure this is what someone did. Fine sand paper will remove it from the pulleys.
Nice tear down video. So what goes bad in a compressor of this design and what gets replaced in a refurb compressor?
The clearance between the pistons and the bore it's larger and it can't compress as well. Sometimes the reed valves also break.
Really Cool Video, and I finally have a much better appreciation of what is going on inside the compressor. But I also have a question for you...if one is adding a can or two of R134a every couple of years to replenish what has leaked out of the system, do you think also a substantial amount of oil has also leaked out with it?. And if so, is their any way you would recommend to add back a couple of ounces of new PAG oil back into the system to help protect the needed lubrication?
I installed a new AC compressor for my vehicle. During the servicing phase, the high was up and low was trying to operate a little. Anyway it started squeaking bad. During the service face , I jumped the compressor with thr high side, as mentioned in the beginning (maybe 15 minutes). Do you think bearing might be bad, and the compressor section is fine. Just curious. I have a new one but if the bearing is bad , I can repair and install on other car. This compressor had 4.0 ounces of oil before operation. Sorry about the long message, I just enjoy fixing cars. GOD BLESS
My wife and I just watched! Loved it. Why would I need to take my compressor apart? Also if I had to take it apart would I use the hammer to separate the parts?
Thanks for that,was inquisitive to see inside of aircon,compressor.
You bet
Really informative video! Never seen the inside of the compressor. Great job!
Thanks.
thank you. Seeing inside the AC makes a lot more sense now.
Ok- got it.Just trying to figure out my problem.03 Mazda protege.Air is cold and compressor works fine.Have this on again off again screeching noise when the car is started and getslouder when put in gear.Turning on air or even heat makes it louder.Ruled out the alt. and it's belt.Tightenening the A/C and pwr steering belt seems to help quiet it.Do not think it is the pwr steering pump.Comp. pulley vbearing feels ok, but I am suspecting it is making the noise since it turns all the time.
Cool video! I've never had a chance to take one of these apart. It's cool to see how they work.
pretty interesting! looks like it would easier and cheaper to rebuild than being gouged by the mechanics shops or parts houses if the replacement kits were readily available!
There's not a lot it would take to rebuild these.
Really cool. Wonder if I could convert it as a water pump to wash my car on the go?
Oh wow! You have the Finish 2000 car polish!I remember those it works great!
That stuff has been on the shelf for a long time.
Nice video, many thanks. Did compressor have only 1 bearing in clutch? I see only bushing in back.
Good video, but does the front plate have a bushing or some typr of roller bearing where the shaft comes out?You did not show that to close or mention it.thanks
At 3:58 you can see the front housing bearing real good and if you look in the background at 4:20 you can see the bearing in the rear housing. This allows the center shaft to spin and it directly connected to the front clutch plate.
This was a great video, got to know inside of AC Compressor as mine is giving me issues.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
great video brother I appreciate the quality video and camera work I dont even have an acura but I enjoyed the info
Do you think it would be possible to connect a 12-Volt motor by accurately machining an opening in the back of the compressor housing and machining the compressor shaft to accept the motor shaft? A high pressure seal I'm guessing, also.
Thanks, been wondering how those work for a while
Thanks for watching.
Internal bearings going out is very rare and the would only rumble really quietly.
Thanks for all your fedback.I think I can rule out the internal bearings .Just wondering if you don't mind watching a video here on the Tube.It is called Mazda 626 A/C compressor bearing noise I believe.See what you think it is.The sound this car makes is identical to my Mazda.Guy thinks it is bearings and someone told him to put oil in the compressor.I think he's wrong
Informative, Thanks. Can you replace the clutch ? Can you buy it seperatly,
Hi ، good video, Is there any solenoid or sensor , inside the compressor, or any electrical component, other than the magnetic clutch. Generally , do compressors, differ one from another. Thanks
The oil is combined with the refrigerant and cycled through the entire system.
Nice video man! I have a question too. My car idles at 950rpm when the AC is on ,if i increases the rpm to like 2000-2500 will it cool faster ? Does the compressor's piston movement increases with the increasing rpms?
It would flow more refrigerant, but if your car is sitting still you won't get more cooling. This is because the condenser won't have enough air running across it.
yea.. yea still vehicle doesn't cools much! Thanks!
gotta get the heat out of the gas
basic principle
Good video. Interesting. I never knew how it worked before watching this. Thanks!
stanthology Thank you.
Very interesting! I didn't know compressors were that simple. Pistons... hmmm...
thanks-We bought this car two years ago and the belts were brand new on the car.Shortley after owning it is when the screeching noise started.One thing I did notice is that the crank pulley, A/C pulley were coated/impregnated it seems in a rust colored dust.The belt is also impregnated with this.The clutch assy.had this coated on it and I had cleaned this off.I tried to clean it off the pulleys but it would not come off the pulleys.Any way I could clean it off the pulleys and belt?
Thank you for the video I had no idea they look easy to rebuild
Greeting from the UK. Very interesting. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks Mate.
Lightly sanding the pulleys with 120 or higher grit will remove glazing and contaminants from pulleys. Once a belt is glazed over from slipping it is junk.
Great video. what are the other 2 types of compressors used in cars?
There are actually 5 types used; Piston, Scroll, Wobble plate, Variable stroke and Vane
hello really good video. where can i buy the gaskets to repair the compressor itself or the replacement parts for a compressor
Your best bet is to Google the compressor manufacturer and contact them.
Thank you, didnt think of that
Also, when the pistons are pushing up and down, is that compressing the gaseous form of the refrigerant, and changing it into a liquid form?
Do you hear it under the dash, inside the car or under the hood? Does it make the same sound with the heat on? What about with the defrost setting on?
thanks lot u r video is very helpful for technicians...
Is it normal that you can only spin the compressor shaft by hand a few revolutions before it feels locked up? Could it be because it has built up compression
The AC compressor turns on with the Defrost setting to cycle the refrigerant during the cold months. This keeps everything lubricated in the compressor.
is there a way to make the piston's compression better when it gets older. why the ac capacity goes less over period of time. is the replacement the only option as a whole. thnks for the video. its short but very informative, i enjoyed it )))))
Sadly, no. If is was running in some other environment, a thicker oil would increase the compression. But a thicker oil would adversely effect the cooling ability of the refrigerant, so that's not an option.
thks
Great post! I learned something about a compressor and how it works!
Thanks for watching.
It takes energy from the engine itself. The compressor is compressing the refrigerant in the form of gas.
You answered a lot of questions I had about that
Any chance you remember what car that compressor was off of? I have a modified c4500 and need that exact clutch cover but can't find a part number for the compressor or clutch... Thanks for the video!
It is a Seltec 488-45121 TM15HD.
It is most likely your front bearing or belt slipping. There are pictures on google images of GM R4 compressors ripped apart.
Excellent man, I just love your videos, can you dissemble an alternator?
Keep the good work
Thank you
***** Thanks. That's a good idea, I have a couple sitting around the garage.
I have leak from my ac compressor caprice 96 I think from rubber seals I tried epoxy to stop leak I put epoxy all around this seal and it failed to stop leak I think because high pressure can I weld it with 4043 aluminum with my arc welding from outside all around seals ?
Helo sir ,
I am very influenced with your video and get some inspiration to do work and I need some help of your want to kw from where I can buy internal parts of ac compressor please do revert as soon as possible thanks
Thanks for the video. Always wondered whats in there.
Yeah, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
A lot simpler than I thought it would be.
OK Cool....I am mechanical and about 85 percent sure I might get that thing back together but just how much of a compressor can I get parts for at my local part store? Are there kits available to the public to rebuild these or what? Me and a friend tried dumping some cans of 134 into my daughters car. The refrigarant went somewhere and there is power to the compressor but its not cycling. Clutch part is my guess. Thanks
So does the compressor take power from the engine/combustion energy or from the electrical energy from the battery in order to operate it?
I have taken apart a V7 Delphi Compressor. I bought a replacement Gasket Repair Kit Kt-GMV7N. This Kit has 5 smaller O rings. I'm sure 4 of these go on the Control valve but I can't find where the other O ring is to be used!
Also, The shaft needle bearing-SCH 1010, behind the shaft seal needs to be replaced! Can you tell me where I can buy this bearing?
+Albert Spahn This guy has a great video on the v7 delphi ruclips.net/video/7lmZnBtj1LE/видео.html
Ther was alot of dust on the clutch.That is what I thought it was.The bearing does not runble at all,feels smooth.Could it be the internal bearings on the compressor?Not sue if they would schreech and Squeell?
Pretty cool... never have thought to gut one before... now I just might have too!!! Thanks for sharing.
The thrust bearings inside would be ideal for use with suspension bush extractor tools. I'm off to rescue a compressor from the junk pile!
Screeching is almost always the belt. Either it is glazed over and or loose.
nice, never took one apart before,,
Can you do a video on how to clean the air con blower on a Isuzu bighorn 4xj1 model
what goes wrong? Reed valve plate or gasket? (barring foreign debris bore damage)
Hi there let me ask you a question I just got my ac compressor replaced on my altima 2007 but it doesn't cool like the factory one I got it from autozone and suprasinly it was the same brand as the factory one ,valeo by the way ,any advice please thanks.
I would think your r134a charge is off or air in the system.
What happens when the pistons wear down? Are there honing tools and replacement pistons? Or at that point does the compressor just get tossed and replaced?
+liamvg No one will sell you parts. They are shipped off to Mexico or China and rebuild there(cores)
Great video. Thanks for showing how one works.
Thanks.. Glad you enjoyed it.
Super interesting. Thanks for the video
Glad you liked it!
Nice video. I'd like to know is there anything special about it? why is it so huge? It looks like much smaller compressor could be made that will give the same pressure. And the magnetic clutch seems too bulky too. Are the RPMs regulated by clutch slip? Thanks for any info
It has to be large to move large amounts of refrigerant at all engine rpms including idle. The clutch is sized to the pulley and the larger diameter it is the more leverage it has to spin the compressor. The compressor could be made smaller if the engine spun at high rpms always.
sixtyfiveford hmm, so compressor RPMs are not regulated, but are the same as the engine(times pulley ratio)? if so, why the need for magnetic clutch? why dont they use servo and mechanical lock with synchro? or the power to engage it could come from oil pressure or vacuum. It would have fraction of the mass. And you can allways gear it up to get more RPMs, so it could be made smaller. Save space and weight.
sixtyfiveford Anywhoo thanks for your answer
Nope the compressor rpm is not regulated the clutch does this. The magnetic clutch serves two purposes: one you don't always want the AC compressor running(AC not turned on) and secondly to control the pressure. More on the controlling pressure: The compressor will cycle on and off to maintain a steady line pressure, the faster the engine is running the shorter amount of time the compressor needs to be on while it needs to be on longer at engine idle to build the same pressure. So it will cycle on and compress/pump refrigerant into the line going to the condenser. It will compress it to a high psi, approx 250psi and then shut off. The pressure will bleed down as the refrigerant escapes into the condenser. Once it hits approx 175psi the compressor clutch kicks back on turning the compressor and pumps back up to approx 250psi. It keeps cycling like this indefinitely. An electromagnet is very reliable and has virtually no fail points. Engine vacuum varies greatly from 0-18 inhg while driving, so if your accelerating the vacuum would drop to 0 and your ac would kick off. Oil pressure is around 40psi and could work be you need a way to switch it on and off. The most ideal thing to make either vacuum or oil pressure work would be an electric solenoid (electromagnet). So basically you'll just add a higher fail point and over complicate a basic system.Smaller, There are different designs and this is one of the smaller. The smaller the compressor, the faster it will need to spin to move the same volume. With this comes a LOT more heat and severely reduces the life. Theoretically if you needed to spin it twice as fast it would only have half the life but in reality even less with the added heat. So instead of a compressor lasting 150,000miles in a car it would get 50-75,000 miles.
sixtyfiveford Its amazing you actually found time to answer me in such detail. Much appreciated
So quick question you mentioned another snap ring down at 1 minute and 35 seconds into the video that right before you start to remove the external bolts. Exactly what internal seal are you referring to? And is there a name for that particular seal and because the compressor actually houses a magnet that creates the charge.. is it a magnetic seal that you are referring to?
There is a bearing and seal that support/seal the main center shaft that spins. It's not magnetic. At 3:00 you can see the main center shaft.
It just won't cool or it will cool poorly. It really shouldn't damage anything. AC relies on High pressure gas transitioning to Low pressure to supply cooling. By adding to much it makes the entire system high pressure.