EXPLAINED!!! 2013 -2019 Ford Escape (ALL Trims & Engines) Battery Removal & Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2022
- - Is your Ford Escape's Auto Stop/Start not working? Battery Warning light on? Did you receive a battery error on your FordPass? Slow cranking on engine start?
You most likely need a battery replacement. My Escape started showing symptoms of needing a battery after about 3 years and 150k miles.
*********Please use this as guidance ONLY *********
THIS IS NOT A DIFFICULT REPAIR! It may seem intimidating, but with minimal tools and patience, you can save yourself HUNDREDS of dollars.
In this video I will show you how to replace the battery on newer Ford Escapes (2013-2019) and restore drive-ability to how how it was when it was new.
**NOTE**
- Make sure the replacement battery MEETS OR EXCEEDS the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) of the factory battery. Failure to do so may result in electrical issues.
- This is a massive battery and is very heavy - the auto parts store salesman questioned the need for this battery. Have them look up the year/make/model to confirm you have the correct battery.
This video is not an official video on Fords recommendations for repair and therefore you should do this repair at your own risk. This channel assumes no responsibility in any consequent failure due to following these guidelines. 
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Thank You. Very Helpful And Doable For The Average Guy.
Glad it was helpful!
Why Mechanics hate Engineers
Tip: remove the negative terminal first. Also, on the battery box end closest to the front. If you lift up slightly on this end, you can pull the two side pieces out (held in by slits in plastic) which will give you a little more room to pull the battery out. Don’t forget to reverse TIS procedure when you have the new battery installed.
Last, before reinstalling all the covers, test the battery (start the car).
Just pull the filter box out, front cover of battery box, battery hold down, slide battery forward and disconnect
Tip for getting the wiper arms back on, there are two clear marks through the windshield that indicate where the wipers should rest. It also helped me to allow the wipers “knobs” to cycle and come to a rest after I had removed the arms. This video helped me quite a bit thank you.
Your video taught me how to replace my own bad batter and saved me hundreds of dollars, time, and stress. Thank you!
I truly appreciated the “it’s a pain in the ass comment” - the engineer that decided to place the battery in that spot needs to be fired. That said, excellent summary video. Followed step by step no it worked without a hitch. Thank you!
Awesome! Super happy to hear that 😎
I will never buy another car with a battery that is so hard to take out.
This is a great video for this job, thank you so much for doing this. I was scratching my head and didn't want to pay the dealer to do this when I knew I could change the battery on a car, but these newer vehicles are a little intimidating when you look under the hood. (sure it's designed that way for that reason) So again, great job!
There was nothing wrong with the battery swap, but if you do this job by yourself, you'll almost certainly run into problems. If you notice in the video, after he put the wiper arms back, they can be moved around. Typically, it doesn't work like that. Normally you have 1 wiper motor that drives both wiper arms. Both of them are connected together, so when one side moves, the other does as well. The wipers on this vehicle are different. Each wiper arm gets its own free running actuator that run independently of each other. On the older design, if you don't install the wiper arms exactly right, you can pull them off and try again. Not on these. The wiper arm actuators have to be recalibrated after you remove them. If you don't. they will crash into each other when in use. He most likely didn't turn on the wipers after he worked on the vehicle to confirm operation.
To avoid this problem, you need to calibrate the arms with a factory level scanner and the procedure in the workshop manual for the vehicle. One of the other posters mentioned the marks on the windshield. They're calibration marks that are used in the calibration procedure. If you don't do all of this, you have somewhere between a 1% to 5% chance you'll get it right by accident. If you are aware that this can happen, you have a much better chance avoiding problems if you're really careful. Either way, always assume you'll need to recalibrate the system. In most cases, you have to.
Torn between this method and the "official" method which involves removing the air filter. I went with this one and I think I am glad I did -- it only took me about an hour. I was already experienced with removing and realigning the wipers since I just did that a few months back. Thanks for the video.
You can reset the bms by turning the key forward and then clicking the high beams and then the brakes. Look it up for the procedure but it's easy
Thank you for sharing this!!!!
Great video!
You can also rip the engine air filter housing out and just pull the battery out
And this along with the internal water pump on my Explorer is why I traded them in for a used Toyota. (And I've had Fords for 50+ years)
Thank you so much. This is about to be a pain in the ass lol
Great video bro! But, I have to critique you just a bit. #1, A properly placed pry bar will pop those wiper blades right off. I watched a guy bang them with his fist for a good 5 minutes trying to get them off. #2 This is a big one that everyone misses, that battery box is NOT a solid rectangle. It is tight, but lift the front section up about 3/8's of an inch and it pops right off making the job MUCH easier.
WOW. My neighbor just asked me to help him replace his. Thank you for the video.
Trying to reset the BMS after a dead battery. We couldn't get the headlight flickering to work either. I guess we need to go to the Dealer. Thanks for the video.
Super happy to help! I’m glad the video was helpful 👍🏻
Awesome thanks for the help man! What a PITA location 😂 I bet you could barely jump it without taking the cowl off if you needed to honestly
there is a jump post on the driver's side fender.
What a pain in the ass just to change a battery.
Oh it’s crazy!
How much did they charge you to reset the BMS?
What is the Optima battery numer?
i can not believe it all that work to replace a battery
Yup - feels a bit unnecessary…
This is insane but thank u I hate Ford I got to change my girls battery.....Goo Chevy💥💥💥💯
Mine was small.
I have 2017 ford escape ecoboost it has on and off button which is pan in the ass u kn how to disable it permanently
A well designed Ford battery replacement. i am sure the Chinese will copy that.
No way was I going to risk screwing up my wipers or breaking plastic clips to get at the battery when all you have to do is pull out the air filter box and unclick the front panel of the battery box so you can slide the battery out the front of the battery box.
There is a faster and easier way. Remove the air box
😂...yea ... Ford knew what kinda hell this was gonna be for the DIY community 😭😂😭😂😭😤😡😭😂
I can't pop off the wipers?! 😭
I am having the same problem put a pry bar in there and they wont budge ,, you get yours off ?
It takes some finesse for sure - the arm is spring loaded and puts pressure on the motor. Try folding the arms up off the windshield and wiggle it really well.
@@Chandlerite Thanks i had a pry bar under there and it didnt budge , i elected to take the airbox out and slide the battery out that way, it is a little tricky to get the nut on the negative terminal loose but if you slide the battery out as far as you can you can get it
On our 2019, the wipers say "USE PULLER" right on them...they don't pop right off.
Engineers hate mechanics
Looks good at home on a nice sunny day but a nightmare in a parking lot during a snowstorm. Ford sucks!
ford screw up on this one...
I saw a video that shows a different method that doesn’t require removing the wipers. ruclips.net/video/eMog06wr6y4/видео.html
Seriously, F Ford
Lol you skipped the hardest part
Right lmfao
Thanks for the feedback.