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1. Remove windshield wiper arms. 2. Remove tray. 3. Remove secondary tray. 4. Now you can *see* the battery.

Fantastic, this was a big help, thank you!

This video was brilliant. Gear puller work’s excellent with PB Blaster. Saved a shite load of money! Took about a hour an a half to disassemble and reassemble. Back on the road! Horrible design and that’s my last ever Ford! Cheers for this video mate!

This was my buddies channel. He passed away in February.

Iv got a super leggy sync after doing an update finally got to version 3.0 Maps don't load. Disconnected battery. Removed fuse. Tried soft reset and master reset. But it is still laggy laggy laggy.

It works for a moment but then the problem comes right back!

What drivability issues does this part cause?

Sounds like a swarm of locusts in the car.

Good job

Engineers hate mechanics

And this along with the internal water pump on my Explorer is why I traded them in for a used Toyota. (And I've had Fords for 50+ years)

Mine was small.

Great video bro! But, I have to critique you just a bit. #1, A properly placed pry bar will pop those wiper blades right off. I watched a guy bang them with his fist for a good 5 minutes trying to get them off. #2 This is a big one that everyone misses, that battery box is NOT a solid rectangle. It is tight, but lift the front section up about 3/8's of an inch and it pops right off making the job MUCH easier.

Wil this work on 2009 ford escape xlt.getting the same code,once I drive it and vehicle gets hot it will want to stall at the first stop,I usually wait in a parking lot to wait or shut it off,then turn vehicle on and continue to my destination,when I fill gas tank,it was hard to start till about the third or fourth try,I was able to get home.

Thank you! 2017 Fusion

I have an issue with my sync 3. I've tried to update to newer version and and it was more than 3 hours updating ..i had to go ,because it was more time than expected and i unplug the USB before finishing.On the next day the screen was okay.. showing that Update Successefully installed ,then turned off and never turned on...The USB is not working anymore..i tried to remove the fuse 67 ,,power button with >>,the + from the battery,nothing works...The radio works,,i just cannot change the stations,Wi-FI works as well,during the night the screen is not completle black there is a light behind... Obviously there was an issue installing properly..my question is it possible to update from computer somehow ,if USB is not working.... or what how to solve this issue?

72000 miles!!! Watch out you are going to have coolant intrusion into the lower engine block soon and need a new engine. Also a very common problem with ecoboost. Ask me how I know :(

There is a faster and easier way. Remove the air box

Just pull the filter box out, front cover of battery box, battery hold down, slide battery forward and disconnect

So is there anybody in Savannah Georgia that can do this

ford screw up on this one...

If you buy one from the dealer, it is probably one piece so you have to replace the entire thing. If you buy one from the auto parts store, it comes in sections so if it happens again, you can just replace the sensor. You can also buy just the sensor which comes with couplers so you can cut the original one out and couple the new sensor in and it works just fine. Not to mention it saves a bunch of time and money

Seriously, F Ford

Works on focus st mk3

What is the Optima battery numer?

Looks good at home on a nice sunny day but a nightmare in a parking lot during a snowstorm. Ford sucks!

Absolute abuse on that poor vehicle. Damn shame lol

Holy crap. I’ve been fighting this issue for a week in my 2019 F250. Now, problem solved. Thank you so much.

There was nothing wrong with the battery swap, but if you do this job by yourself, you'll almost certainly run into problems. If you notice in the video, after he put the wiper arms back, they can be moved around. Typically, it doesn't work like that. Normally you have 1 wiper motor that drives both wiper arms. Both of them are connected together, so when one side moves, the other does as well. The wipers on this vehicle are different. Each wiper arm gets its own free running actuator that run independently of each other. On the older design, if you don't install the wiper arms exactly right, you can pull them off and try again. Not on these. The wiper arm actuators have to be recalibrated after you remove them. If you don't. they will crash into each other when in use. He most likely didn't turn on the wipers after he worked on the vehicle to confirm operation. To avoid this problem, you need to calibrate the arms with a factory level scanner and the procedure in the workshop manual for the vehicle. One of the other posters mentioned the marks on the windshield. They're calibration marks that are used in the calibration procedure. If you don't do all of this, you have somewhere between a 1% to 5% chance you'll get it right by accident. If you are aware that this can happen, you have a much better chance avoiding problems if you're really careful. Either way, always assume you'll need to recalibrate the system. In most cases, you have to.

I have the same issue on our 2013 but now I have a P2196 as a result of it running too rich

Would this fix the LOUD vibrating noise that comes from the rear right witch then shuts down ENGINE, thanks

Sweet

Tip for getting the wiper arms back on, there are two clear marks through the windshield that indicate where the wipers should rest. It also helped me to allow the wipers “knobs” to cycle and come to a rest after I had removed the arms. This video helped me quite a bit thank you.

This is a great video for this job, thank you so much for doing this. I was scratching my head and didn't want to pay the dealer to do this when I knew I could change the battery on a car, but these newer vehicles are a little intimidating when you look under the hood. (sure it's designed that way for that reason) So again, great job!

Thank you so much. This is about to be a pain in the ass lol

OMG thank you so much. I just got a Ford Escape as a work vehicle and the delay in audio has been KILLING me. You have completely saved my sanity

You can also rip the engine air filter housing out and just pull the battery out

No way was I going to risk screwing up my wipers or breaking plastic clips to get at the battery when all you have to do is pull out the air filter box and unclick the front panel of the battery box so you can slide the battery out the front of the battery box.

I have 2017 ford escape ecoboost it has on and off button which is pan in the ass u kn how to disable it permanently

No more ford for me, I had another ford with this same issue, now this one has the same problem, you would think there would be a recall or the newer ones would be fixed

Just fyi this video has helped me today!! Thank you! ❤️

Love the music

Just as much of a pain in the ass to replace simple light bulbs . Give your head a shake ford

No this does not work!

I will never buy another car with a battery that is so hard to take out.

Hi Chandler! I'm looking at these parts on O'Reilly and see two variations: vapor canister purge solenoid ($181) and vapor canister purge valve ($101). Which one is correct or are they the same? They also sell the purge valve by itself; is it possible to remove that part only and replace it in the existing hoses?

Great video!

Your video taught me how to replace my own bad batter and saved me hundreds of dollars, time, and stress. Thank you!

Saved my ass, thanks brother. Couple of things I did differently: 1) for the lower one I reached up from underneath to release the clip using two flat head screwdrivers to pop it off. 2) i removed the cowl cover (had to) 3) the left clip I broke off the green tabs from one side with a flat head screwdriver.