If you buy one from the dealer, it is probably one piece so you have to replace the entire thing. If you buy one from the auto parts store, it comes in sections so if it happens again, you can just replace the sensor. You can also buy just the sensor which comes with couplers so you can cut the original one out and couple the new sensor in and it works just fine. Not to mention it saves a bunch of time and money
My local Ford dealer wanted to charge me $900 to fix this, including $250 for the part. I found the part on FordPartsDirect for $159 from another dealer, plus $38 overnight shipping. After watching this awesome video, I had the job done in an hour. Of the two clips down front on the passenger side, the upper one was the toughest to remove for me. I ended up cutting the old tube and rotating the white button to the front. Much easier to reach. The new one snapped right into place. Also, I didn’t have to disconnect the wire to the air intake sensor. I just laid that tube over where the air cleaner was. My Escape runs like a champ! Thanks again for posting this! I owe you a beer!
Thank You so much for that vid. It explains getting to this valve in the most practical way. I have used just a valve with shark connectors . Set was $45 backs. No need for removing whole plumbing. Just cutting off old valve and connecting new with shark connectors (came with a set)
thanks much for posting this video. I had to go through this procedure a couple days ago, and it is indeed painful. The hard part was getting those old clips to release. In my case they were 7 years old brittle plastic that easily just breaks apart. The hardest two clips to release were the bottom left, and the one closest to the firewall.
I cannot thank you enough for this video. My dad passed away before he taught me how to work on cars so RUclips is my teacher. This worked like a charm but you were right, it was a bish to work on and my arms are hurting, haha. All in all, I consider this a major win. Fixed my stalling after pumping gas problem AND I did it on my own. Thanks bro, honestly.
It looks like dorman offers just the valve itself. Cut the lines to the old one and replace the new ones with push connect fittings. I just ordered one to try
Thank you! This worked perfectly for me on a 2013 AWD Titanium Escape. Part for mine was: CV6Z9D289S. A few comments: I took the wipers and cowling off just to give a bit more room to work on the back connection. I also took a destructive approach to removing the most difficult connection on the lower front of the engine -- I used a Dremel to cut the old hose close to the clamp. That way I could rotate it over and more easily depress the clasp, which made it easier to pull off. Without doing that, I couldn't get enough leverage in the tight spot to both depress and pull off at the same time.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I couldn't have replaced the valve without it. The demonstration on disconnecting the connectors with the white and green clips was beneficial. I found that 4 of 5 of these connectors were difficult to disconnect. Practice with the top connector with only one hand. It helps to have strong fingers. It was painful, and I cut both hands working on these connectors. But I did it! I bought the assembly at O’Reilly’s. Part number for 2017 Escape is CP934. The assembly has connectors on both sides of the valve. If the valve fails again, then I will buy the assembly and only replace the valve, none of the hoses. Why didn’t Ford do this???
Saved my ass, thanks brother. Couple of things I did differently: 1) for the lower one I reached up from underneath to release the clip using two flat head screwdrivers to pop it off. 2) i removed the cowl cover (had to) 3) the left clip I broke off the green tabs from one side with a flat head screwdriver.
No more ford for me, I had another ford with this same issue, now this one has the same problem, you would think there would be a recall or the newer ones would be fixed
Great video, had this same code on my 17 escape followed your video got it swapped out pretty easily all things considered. My check engine light did NOT turn off immediately though. I had to drive about 50 miles before the light turned off on its own. Car runs great though everything seems fine. Thank you for the video!
A very common problem apparently as I ran into two other owners at the dealer where I picked up the part for 300$ Canadian. I was very careful and took a ton of time to do it. The parts desk also admitted to the issue being very common. Took me about 3.5hrs including driving car in, setup, detailing, watching the video and ofcourse swapping the part. I also took the time to lube up and grease several things under the hood too! One owner told me it happened first at 120k km which is my scenario and again to him at about 240k km... seems this part fails or becomes clogged after 120k km on avg. Part was on backorder with a long lead time had to go to a farther dealer to get the part. I will be attemtping to clean/fix the old part and try to reuse it when this happens again. #FORD change the design! Thanks for the video!
I went through 3 different local vendors for the part before I gave up and went to the dealership and paid $170 for it. Nobody had a good aftermarket part. Different connections, one had an extra hose and connector, one of the purge valves fell apart just taking it out of the box. At least Ford actually had the right part.
Kind of annoyed that I'm getting this in my 3 year old Escape. Your video is extremely helpful and I think I'll definitely be able to do this myself even though I'm not exactly mechanically inclined... Thanks!
Appreciate the video, Ford was goona charge me almost $800 to do this, got the part, bought a decoder and knocked it out today, it was a bitch to get done roughed my hands up but all good thanks for the help bro!!!
If you’re like me you’re gonna want to save and DIY. But beware because this video is condensed just to give an explanation. Quickly figured that out when trying to reach the front clips in a very crammed area. Thanks Ford for making it difficult to work on. Lucky for me I enjoy fixing my own cars and I have a whole lot of patience. 😉
72000 miles!!! Watch out you are going to have coolant intrusion into the lower engine block soon and need a new engine. Also a very common problem with ecoboost. Ask me how I know :(
Thanks a lot! Great video (except for the music). I just replaced it on my 2013. Just a minor cuts on my hands but other than that it was pretty easy. Even the lower ones. Maybe it is different in the 2018 but on the 2013 they are easy to reach. The hardest one is the first one. Also, to remove it from the bracket I had to wiggle it a little it would no come off pulling straight.
I just find out that I have that code on 2017 escape🤯🤯, only 41k miles and something already failing, disappointing 😞, let see what my dealership says tomorrow, I want to add that I was filling the tank all the way, for the last, maybe four moths😔
Very informative marc. I had to do spark plugs on my escape a few months back and was ready to pull my hair out removing the wiper arms and all the panels just to remove the coil packs
Thx for the video. My 19 needs a canister purge valve replacement. I was sold the part but I’m assuming I need this entire hose assembly? Because I can’t find just that one part anywhere. If so, I’m wondering why the auto part store lists and sells just the canister purge valve? Any thoughts are appreciated!
Been there and done it before - but never again. Next time I am just going to cut out the purge valve and replace it with my own little electric valve. What a stupid setup and pain in the ass moment to replace. I did this two years ago and paid $140 CND for the hose-line assembly. Agggggh.
Hi Chandler! I'm looking at these parts on O'Reilly and see two variations: vapor canister purge solenoid ($181) and vapor canister purge valve ($101). Which one is correct or are they the same? They also sell the purge valve by itself; is it possible to remove that part only and replace it in the existing hoses?
Hi thanks for the video. I purchased what I thought was the right part but it’s only the valve. Not with the spider arms. Is it possible to use this or do I need this whole piece? I have the p1450 code and car stalls everytime I get gas. Thanks!
Wil this work on 2009 ford escape xlt.getting the same code,once I drive it and vehicle gets hot it will want to stall at the first stop,I usually wait in a parking lot to wait or shut it off,then turn vehicle on and continue to my destination,when I fill gas tank,it was hard to start till about the third or fourth try,I was able to get home.
And this way worked like a charm saved a whole lotta money on labor and if I were to do it the way this guy is doing it would have been a pain in the ass.
Yes it has fixed the issue completely. Install was not very difficult. I had thought about heating the plastic and doing that but decided against it. Glad it’s worked for you guys!
The number one cause of this problem is over filling the fuel tank.deal with it all the time. Once I tell The customer to stop filling the tank when it cuts off they never have this problem again
That is great information. However I never overfill my vehicles because of possible emissions related component failures. So I am stumped as to what caused this on this vehicle. Cheers!
@@Chandlerite I've heard this many times that over filing is the culprit. I have a 2014 2.0L Escape with 250k kms (155k miles) on it and I've just had to do my third replacement of this part and I always stop fueling at the cut off. So I don't think there's much truth to that. This part has never lasted me more than 3 years, with my very first replacement assembly lasting barely 2 years. My first two replacement assemblies were Ford OEM parts, this third time I've opted for the Dorman Aftermarket part (Part No. 911-774). Some say a faulty cannister vent is the culprit behind these purge valve failures. However, if you have an AWD model like me then there's no accessing the cannister vent without RE&RE the rear axle assembly which supposedly requires 10+ hours of labour. I'd say with 3 purge valve replacements over the life of your vehicle you will still come way ahead of even one cannister vent replacement on an AWD model.
I can’t even find the part going on 5 months every time I gas up it’s stalls and act crazy whenever they do find the part with labor I gotta spend 800 and i made my last car payment a month ago 🤦🏽♀️
Ford screwed the pooch on this part. 2 disconnects on the purge solenoid would have cost maybe 50 cents, instead they want you to waste all that plastic.
I suppose it could throw an 02 sensor code, as the engine typically runs rich when the purge valve isn’t functioning correctly. I did not do a smoke test - reset the CEL by clearing the code and ( if the purge valve was the issue) it should not come back on.
@@Chandlerite mine keeps coming on and have been told best way to find out for sure is to have a smoke test done when we turn it off to put gas in then go to start it back up we have to push on the gas sometime to get it running again or wait a few mins
I noticed no one shows how to reach and disassemble the two front connections !!!!! What's the easiest way to do so? Please anyone give a hand be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
DO NOT DO THIS COLOSSAL WASTE OF TIME! Just change the purge valve. Buy Dorman part no 913-430. It also comes with quick connects..You won't have to bother trying to reach those stupid green and whte clips. I just did it and it solved the hard start after filling gas tank problem like a charm. No more P1450 code.
I’m so glad I read your comment! I have a 2017 Edge Titanium with the 2.0 EcoBoost. The hose going back toward the firewall has a connector. Did you cut that off and use the union that came with the kit?
What a complete pain to get through and terrible design by Ford. However, your video made it possible. Thank you.
If you buy one from the dealer, it is probably one piece so you have to replace the entire thing. If you buy one from the auto parts store, it comes in sections so if it happens again, you can just replace the sensor. You can also buy just the sensor which comes with couplers so you can cut the original one out and couple the new sensor in and it works just fine. Not to mention it saves a bunch of time and money
My local Ford dealer wanted to charge me $900 to fix this, including $250 for the part. I found the part on FordPartsDirect for $159 from another dealer, plus $38 overnight shipping. After watching this awesome video, I had the job done in an hour. Of the two clips down front on the passenger side, the upper one was the toughest to remove for me. I ended up cutting the old tube and rotating the white button to the front. Much easier to reach. The new one snapped right into place. Also, I didn’t have to disconnect the wire to the air intake sensor. I just laid that tube over where the air cleaner was. My Escape runs like a champ! Thanks again for posting this! I owe you a beer!
Happy to help! If you’re ever out in NC, I’ll hold you to it!
@@Chandlerite, where in NC? I’ll be there next week!
Thank You so much for that vid. It explains getting to this valve in the most practical way. I have used just a valve with shark connectors . Set was $45 backs. No need for removing whole plumbing. Just cutting off old valve and connecting new with shark connectors (came with a set)
Where did you get the valve with connectors? I’m pretty sure mine is going bad.
thanks much for posting this video. I had to go through this procedure a couple days ago, and it is indeed painful. The hard part was getting those old clips to release. In my case they were 7 years old brittle plastic that easily just breaks apart. The hardest two clips to release were the bottom left, and the one closest to the firewall.
I cannot thank you enough for this video. My dad passed away before he taught me how to work on cars so RUclips is my teacher.
This worked like a charm but you were right, it was a bish to work on and my arms are hurting, haha.
All in all, I consider this a major win. Fixed my stalling after pumping gas problem AND I did it on my own.
Thanks bro, honestly.
Sorry to hear about your dad. I’m glad my video was helpful!
It looks like dorman offers just the valve itself. Cut the lines to the old one and replace the new ones with push connect fittings. I just ordered one to try
A few people have commented that as well. That would certainly work, too. I would prefer to replace the entire piece but that’s just me.
@@Chandlerite I put it in 3 weeks ago and it seems to be working fine.
Great to hear!
@@Duckhunterbowcan you please tell me where you ordered the Dorman part from. My 2018 Escape is dying/running rough when I fill it with gas.
Thank you! This worked perfectly for me on a 2013 AWD Titanium Escape. Part for mine was: CV6Z9D289S. A few comments: I took the wipers and cowling off just to give a bit more room to work on the back connection. I also took a destructive approach to removing the most difficult connection on the lower front of the engine -- I used a Dremel to cut the old hose close to the clamp. That way I could rotate it over and more easily depress the clasp, which made it easier to pull off. Without doing that, I couldn't get enough leverage in the tight spot to both depress and pull off at the same time.
I have a 2013 FWD Titanium with the same issue. Not looking forward to doing this
Thank you so much for posting this video. I couldn't have replaced the valve without it. The demonstration on disconnecting the connectors with the white and green clips was beneficial. I found that 4 of 5 of these connectors were difficult to disconnect. Practice with the top connector with only one hand. It helps to have strong fingers. It was painful, and I cut both hands working on these connectors. But I did it! I bought the assembly at O’Reilly’s. Part number for 2017 Escape is CP934. The assembly has connectors on both sides of the valve. If the valve fails again, then I will buy the assembly and only replace the valve, none of the hoses. Why didn’t Ford do this???
You're welcome!
Saved my ass, thanks brother. Couple of things I did differently:
1) for the lower one I reached up from underneath to release the clip using two flat head screwdrivers to pop it off.
2) i removed the cowl cover (had to)
3) the left clip I broke off the green tabs from one side with a flat head screwdriver.
No more ford for me, I had another ford with this same issue, now this one has the same problem, you would think there would be a recall or the newer ones would be fixed
Great video, had this same code on my 17 escape followed your video got it swapped out pretty easily all things considered. My check engine light did NOT turn off immediately though. I had to drive about 50 miles before the light turned off on its own. Car runs great though everything seems fine. Thank you for the video!
Great to hear!
A very common problem apparently as I ran into two other owners at the dealer where I picked up the part for 300$ Canadian. I was very careful and took a ton of time to do it. The parts desk also admitted to the issue being very common.
Took me about 3.5hrs including driving car in, setup, detailing, watching the video and ofcourse swapping the part. I also took the time to lube up and grease several things under the hood too!
One owner told me it happened first at 120k km which is my scenario and again to him at about 240k km... seems this part fails or becomes clogged after 120k km on avg.
Part was on backorder with a long lead time had to go to a farther dealer to get the part.
I will be attemtping to clean/fix the old part and try to reuse it when this happens again.
#FORD change the design!
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for taking the time to leave a great comment! Happy to help.
Wow dude thank you so much for taking your time to explain all this! You’re the man
This part is becoming very hard to find so one has to assume its happening more then Ford expected. Thank you for the video.
I went through 3 different local vendors for the part before I gave up and went to the dealership and paid $170 for it. Nobody had a good aftermarket part. Different connections, one had an extra hose and connector, one of the purge valves fell apart just taking it out of the box. At least Ford actually had the right part.
Happy to help! Hopefully you’ve been problem free 😎
Thank you for a excellent video, going to tackle my daughter's escape today, really appreciate your time.
Happy to help!
Kind of annoyed that I'm getting this in my 3 year old Escape. Your video is extremely helpful and I think I'll definitely be able to do this myself even though I'm not exactly mechanically inclined...
Thanks!
It is annoying indeed!!
Have this problem on my two year old edge! Same problem on my 2011 escape but it was much easier to fix than my edge.
Appreciate the video, Ford was goona charge me almost $800 to do this, got the part, bought a decoder and knocked it out today, it was a bitch to get done roughed my hands up but all good thanks for the help bro!!!
Happy to help! Hopefully you’ve been problem free 🤘🏻😎
Awesome video only things is didn’t show how you get the clip off did u use hand or tool to reach the clip in the very back
If you’re like me you’re gonna want to save and DIY. But beware because this video is condensed just to give an explanation. Quickly figured that out when trying to reach the front clips in a very crammed area. Thanks Ford for making it difficult to work on. Lucky for me I enjoy fixing my own cars and I have a whole lot of patience. 😉
Ford makes unreliable vehicles and their stealerships are corrupt.
72000 miles!!! Watch out you are going to have coolant intrusion into the lower engine block soon and need a new engine. Also a very common problem with ecoboost. Ask me how I know :(
You got it! It’s is a very expensive job!
Thanks a lot! Great video (except for the music). I just replaced it on my 2013. Just a minor cuts on my hands but other than that it was pretty easy. Even the lower ones. Maybe it is different in the 2018 but on the 2013 they are easy to reach. The hardest one is the first one. Also, to remove it from the bracket I had to wiggle it a little it would no come off pulling straight.
I just find out that I have that code on 2017 escape🤯🤯, only 41k miles and something already failing, disappointing 😞, let see what my dealership says tomorrow, I want to add that I was filling the tank all the way, for the last, maybe four moths😔
Thanks for the awesome video. Question - did you get any better gas mileage after this procedure?
Happy to help. Yes, fuel economy improves substantially.
Very informative marc. I had to do spark plugs on my escape a few months back and was ready to pull my hair out removing the wiper arms and all the panels just to remove the coil packs
DUDE! How've you been man!!
chandlerite
Pretty good. Yourself?
@@AdriftAndAtPeace323 Doing great man! Its good to hear from you!
chandlerite
Glad to hear and Likewise man. Feel free to hit me up from time to time haha
Michael Pine I’m not sure I have your phone number haha
Thank you!!!
Just fyi this video has helped me today!! Thank you! ❤️
You are so welcome!
Thx for the video. My 19 needs a canister purge valve replacement. I was sold the part but I’m assuming I need this entire hose assembly? Because I can’t find just that one part anywhere. If so, I’m wondering why the auto part store lists and sells just the canister purge valve? Any thoughts are appreciated!
The valve is located by the fuel tank, in front of the rear axle on the passenger side. Nearly impossible to do on your own on the AWD models.
Would this fix the LOUD vibrating noise that comes from the rear right witch then shuts down ENGINE, thanks
I have the same issue on our 2013 but now I have a P2196 as a result of it running too rich
Been there and done it before - but never again. Next time I am just going to cut out the purge valve and replace it with my own little electric valve. What a stupid setup and pain in the ass moment to replace. I did this two years ago and paid $140 CND for the hose-line assembly. Agggggh.
Yeah, it can be a super pain in the ass!
What drivability issues does this part cause?
Hi Chandler! I'm looking at these parts on O'Reilly and see two variations: vapor canister purge solenoid ($181) and vapor canister purge valve ($101). Which one is correct or are they the same? They also sell the purge valve by itself; is it possible to remove that part only and replace it in the existing hoses?
🙏🏼 thank you so much !!!!!!!
Hi thanks for the video. I purchased what I thought was the right part but it’s only the valve. Not with the spider arms. Is it possible to use this or do I need this whole piece? I have the p1450 code and car stalls everytime I get gas. Thanks!
They also sold me the one part. Doesn’t make sense. Did you ever get this resolved? Thx.
Wil this work on 2009 ford escape xlt.getting the same code,once I drive it and vehicle gets hot it will want to stall at the first stop,I usually wait in a parking lot to wait or shut it off,then turn vehicle on and continue to my destination,when I fill gas tank,it was hard to start till about the third or fourth try,I was able to get home.
I wonder if the gas cylinder and this purge valve have the same code I don’t know what to do
What a pain. Seems like we could simply cut and install a new purge valve and utilize the same hoses and connectors and leave them all in place.
You would think!!
Do you think this will be the same steps for a 2019 Ford Escape SE 2.0 ecoboost?
Yes
Sweet
Awesome, where are you located
Is there gas in the tank ? E
I hate my wife’s 2017 ford escape..I have this issues along with a faulty heating core and transmission recall
These vehicles do have some issues for sure - hope all is well with the car.
I was able to cut out the purge valve and replace it. Just have to heat the plastic tubes. I had the P144C code.
Did this fix your issue?
And this way worked like a charm saved a whole lotta money on labor and if I were to do it the way this guy is doing it would have been a pain in the ass.
And this is why mechanics hate people like us they can't get over.
Yes it has fixed the issue completely. Install was not very difficult. I had thought about heating the plastic and doing that but decided against it.
Glad it’s worked for you guys!
Where can you buy jist the purge valve. I looked online and only seen with hoses thanks
@@lizwilliams6120 you can't it comes as an assemblya
The number one cause of this problem is over filling the fuel tank.deal with it all the time. Once I tell
The customer to stop filling the tank when it cuts off they never have this problem again
That is great information. However I never overfill my vehicles because of possible emissions related component failures. So I am stumped as to what caused this on this vehicle.
Cheers!
While possibly true, I've just began to experience this issue on a 2017 Escape 2.0L at 75k and I've never over-filled the tank.
@@Chandlerite I've heard this many times that over filing is the culprit. I have a 2014 2.0L Escape with 250k kms (155k miles) on it and I've just had to do my third replacement of this part and I always stop fueling at the cut off. So I don't think there's much truth to that.
This part has never lasted me more than 3 years, with my very first replacement assembly lasting barely 2 years. My first two replacement assemblies were Ford OEM parts, this third time I've opted for the Dorman Aftermarket part (Part No. 911-774).
Some say a faulty cannister vent is the culprit behind these purge valve failures. However, if you have an AWD model like me then there's no accessing the cannister vent without RE&RE the rear axle assembly which supposedly requires 10+ hours of labour. I'd say with 3 purge valve replacements over the life of your vehicle you will still come way ahead of even one cannister vent replacement on an AWD model.
Thank youuuuu!!!!!!!
My dealer wants to charge me $1600 🤦🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️. I have a 2017 ford escape titanium
I believe in you!
I can’t even find the part going on 5 months every time I gas up it’s stalls and act crazy whenever they do find the part with labor I gotta spend 800 and i made my last car payment a month ago 🤦🏽♀️
So is there anybody in Savannah Georgia that can do this
Ford screwed the pooch on this part. 2 disconnects on the purge solenoid would have cost maybe 50 cents, instead they want you to waste all that plastic.
Can this code cause an O2 sensor to come up too and did you guys have to do a smoke test to make sure it's right
I suppose it could throw an 02 sensor code, as the engine typically runs rich when the purge valve isn’t functioning correctly. I did not do a smoke test - reset the CEL by clearing the code and ( if the purge valve was the issue) it should not come back on.
@@Chandlerite mine keeps coming on and have been told best way to find out for sure is to have a smoke test done when we turn it off to put gas in then go to start it back up we have to push on the gas sometime to get it running again or wait a few mins
I noticed no one shows how to reach and disassemble the two front connections !!!!! What's the easiest way to do so? Please anyone give a hand be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
It’s just a matter of getting in there and getting it done. It hurts and you’ll tear up your arm but it is doable.
Just as much of a pain in the ass to replace simple light bulbs . Give your head a shake ford
Did you disconnect the battery before messing with the car?
DO NOT DO THIS COLOSSAL WASTE OF TIME! Just change the purge valve. Buy Dorman part no 913-430. It also comes with quick connects..You won't have to bother trying to reach those stupid green and whte clips. I just did it and it solved the hard start after filling gas tank problem like a charm. No more P1450 code.
I’m so glad I read your comment! I have a 2017 Edge Titanium with the 2.0 EcoBoost. The hose going back toward the firewall has a connector. Did you cut that off and use the union that came with the kit?
Hard to listen to you talk with the annoying background music
It was an internal battle to add background music. In hindsight, you are correct.
IMovie has a way to lower the volume on that track. Great video otherwise!
Is this the same as code p144c
Possibly. This should fix that code as well.
Sure I have the 2.7 liter way easier than that contraption
Thank You!