Wow, these videos are great! I just replaced the PCV system in my '94. I have the non-turbo version with EGR, but the procedure is close enough. Thanks for doing these and all your Volvo tech videos, they are very helpful.
Thank you very much Robert, this evening I recieved my new oil catcher and needed some information of how to replace it. Thanks to your educational material I am now prepeared on a 100%))))
Hi Robert, I just wanna say thank you! I bought a used 1999 V70 2.4 Turbo a month ago and your videos helped me alot. I made the glove test and apparantly my PCV system is clogged. I already ordered all the parts I need and I'm looking forward to replace them. Im sure your video will help me to get the job done. Thank you and greetings from Germany!
I've always enjoyed your videos! I have two Volvo's - a 2002 S60 and a 2007 V50. If I would have known how crazy it is to handle a PCV situation I may have bought more Subbies. As a matter of maintenance I've replaced the PCV valve on our other cars and it is a matter of minutes. To do a Volvo is hours of labor and very costly. I've read that other cars use the same engineered system but what were they thinking to create the positive crank ventilation. More reason that I believe that engineering on cars is done to allow the service department to have more billable hours.
Hi Henry, I am not able to reply to your message. You must have some kind of security setting on your account. Anywho, 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other since I already have the tool. I guess I like Okie, even though they are one time use clamps.
I have a 2001 Volvo s40 1.9 turbo. I was planning to change the pcv system because I'm having rough idling and stalling during idling the car also getting p0122, p0102 codes. I was gonna try to just clean the ptc valve that you show at the end of this video but I don't know where it is in my car. i had a friend check my car with his obd2 scanner with a program and it was showing that i wasn't getting any MAP pressure.
I have and error po237 but my car won't start when I was driving the car stalled and stopped by accident I put to much oil in it and shoot up through the dip stick And won't start Checked battery just need some info if pcv value is fixed will the car or could there be more problems
Hello! I have changed the PCV system on two 850's. Both times I had a really hard time getting one of the bolts for the manifold off. It's the lower one behind the servo reservoir etc. How did you do to get that one loose?
No, mainly because my car has the cover over it. On some cars you can mess up the throttle body assembly if you move the throttle by hand, but it will not harm this car. You really do NOT have to throttle the car to do this test. If it blows up at idle you have a bad PCV system or worn motor.
+Frets Nirvana they are called oetiker clamps. They are one time use clamps but I have reused them. Usually thinner, quicker to install and for uses that are not to tight.
Hello, Robert. I need answer to the question what will happen if I cut the hose coming from the head, close the part going to the separator and vent the part coming from the head to the atmosphere by extending it and putting filter at the end of it? I'm about to do it and I can't find any information on someone else who's done it. The reason is that the mechanics in my area do not acknowledge that kind of maintenance. They tried to rip me off with engine rebuild. I don't feel comfortable trying to do it myself due to lack of experience and fear of mistake.
At 5:01 my manifold doesn't have that? It does not have anything on it to where I can plug my line to? it's a 1994 850 Turbo. That's so weird.. It has a block off plate instead. Yet my pcv kit comes with that line on it?
Robert, is there any way to distinguish between a bad PTvc system or a blown turbo? We have an 01 xc70 which started blowing heavy oil smoke one day on way home. Haven't driven it since, assumed turbo went, but was told it might not have. Any ideas how to distinguish it? Thanks
Hi Robert, How do you replace the bolt underneath the manifold which attachés to the bracket on the engine block? It's virtually impossible to line up the bolt to thread it from below.
Good question, I'm about to add estimate pricing to my videos. ;) It depends on the car you have. The turbo cars cost more but the parts kits are about the same. Turbo cars $600, NA cars $350. Whatever shop you take it to, make sure they have experience with doing the job. If not, they will likely fail to do something important like clean out the block ports or the PTC.
Robert DIY Ok.. thanks so much and yes, you should def add pricing to your vids. You're providing an invaluable service. W/o you, and Matthew's forum, I'd have spent a lot more money! You're not close to NJ are you?
Hi again Robert….I just went through replacing the pcv on my 1998 Turbo Volvo as per your tutorial. However, I now have an air leak that I cannot find because I cannot hear exactly where it is coming from. I took all apart and put it back together again …but although all looks well …I still hear the leak. Could I use a leak down test kit to better hear where the leak is coming from while the car isn't running?
I got it Robert ....there was a vacuum hose that had come loose under the accelerator assembly as well as the clamp on the top of the intake manifold would not stay put. IPD sent worm clamps and they would not hold in either situation, so I had to order some oediker clamps and tool. I also did a smoke test that helped me find the leaks. Always learning here ....thanks to people like you who are willing to give help.
Robert, thank you. I have a question. I've got my 97 850 T5 tore into and am nearly ready to put in all my vacuum hoses, PCV hoses, etc. One thing I didn't document as I was doing the tear down was where one of the hoses goes. Next to the PCV connection (on the end by the turbo), there's a nipple for another hose. I can't remember where the other end of that hose goes. Any help would be appreciated.
Robert. I assume the engine tear down and PCV replacement requires the same steps for base engine Volvo's. Are there any shortcuts you can recommend that do not require the intake manifold, fuel rail and throttle body disconnects?
Hi Robert, thanks for your videos, always very helpful. I've nearly finished undertaking this on my 98 V70R but I've got an issue, next to the PTC I seem to have another nipple than the one in this video, it had what seems like an aftermarket hose that went from there to the left side of the intake. The new PCV kit had a hose that was missing on the original which now goes to the left side of the intake. Where should the hose next to the PTC in the turbo downpipe go to? Can I just put to the manifold vacuum tree? Thanks
+Robert DIY Thanks, got it, the one with the T joint near the throttle body. When I took mine apart that hadn't been connected to anything at all. All seems in order now, the system was unbelievably clogged, can't wait to start the car and check the pressure from the oil cap. Thanks again, Robert
Hello Robert, I have looked at many of your instruction videos now and would like to thank you from the UK for all your comprehensive advice. I have recently bought a 1998 V70 T5 and have some smoke through the dipstick tube indicating I need to do this task, Am I right in assuming that my car does not have an egr valve so I can save myself some time doing the replacement?
Robert DIY Yes I did the glove test with a latex glove and the glove inflated, other than the slight smoke through the dipstick and the glove test the spark plug cover when removed showed no oil so I am guessing that a service mechanic has cleaned this up in the past., the car has done 187,000 miles with its one previous owner and although it has a comprehensive Volvo main dealer service history this is one job that has been overlooked and as we intend to keep the car for a good while I will do it.
Robert DIY i believe the PTC needs to be cleaned periodically to enable the system to work correctly. may be worth pointing people to that first, then the other bits?
I have oil coming out the oil cap seal. If the hard plastic line that comes from the trap and travels around the block to the PTC has pressure in it (tested by capping with my finger then released) wouldn't that indicate that the trap and those lines are not blocked as there was flow out of the trap to the intake/ptc. (as long as the ptc itself has a clean hole) ? I ask because it seams like this might be a good test to tell if the pressure is coming from bad rings or valves. If the trap system is blocked, would there be pressure being generated in that pipe or just the block because it could not get out that tube? What blockage exactly causes the pressure build in the pcv/trap set up? Thanks for your time. Just trying to figure out whether it's worth doing that job if it will have no effect and it is bad rings/valves!
+Lensvoodoo Huh? I have no idea. Maybe you should check with Volvo. If the rings are bad, compression will be low. Pulling that tube off and putting your finger over it, does not do/complete a compression test. lol
Ha, yes, i realize that. But if a fellow can't figure out whether his pcv/trap is blocked, it could be a better test than checking pressure at the dipstick/oil cap because that could have 3 possible causes -rings, valves or trap. If a blocked trap means that pressure would not make it out to that line, it would elliminate one possibility. Then a compression check should be done. What do you think? I need to swap some lensvoodoo for some (carvoodoo!)
Most of them from up to early '96. You can run the VIN checker on the Volvo website and see if your car has it, or simply look at the intake under the throttle body.
Hey robert i did it with the engine cold, i havent checked my compression i will try that, should i be doing it with the engine cold or hot ? Thank you
Hey Robert, I just finished the installation of a new PCV System on my 1996 Volvo 850 n/a, and on first startup after sitting in the garage for over a week, there was light white smoke for about 30 seconds to a minute after startup, followed by rather heavy white smoke. I immediately shut the car off and went to go smell the tail pipe - no noticeable smell of oil or anything - nothing but water in the exhaust. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and went to go start it again. Exact same results, light white smoke at first - while the engine was running, the exhaust did not smell like oil, but it burned my nostrils because the smell was so strong and potent. I immediately backed the car out of the garage and took it down to the culdesac like 6 houses down. Drove perfectly fine the entire way, but on my way back I noticed the thick white smoke in my rear view. Is this likely just water condensation getting worse as the engine warms, or is this something I should be concerned about? Should I let it idle for 10 minutes to burn some of the water off, or just drive it around the neighborhoods a bit? What do you think it could be? I also replaced the fuel injectors, pump and filter. Nothing is leaking, and there are no dash lights at all.
It's a Bosch Fuel Pump Insert from FCP Euro. Came in new Bosch packaging and everything. For the oil trap lines, the back/left port is going to the top of the engine, and the forward/right port is going to the air intake hose. I used 1/4 inch fuel line for the small line on the end of the intake manifold. I did a bit of research, and the thick white smoke is common with stuck fuel injectors. Maybe I got a bad one. They're GB Remanufactured injectors from FCP Euro.
Found the problem! It was a stuck fuel injector. Unplugged the harness wire, and bam! No smoke, perfectly smooth idle. I'm not looking forward to pulling the fuel rail again to replace that damn injector.
bought car with blown head gasket. So of course won't run and can't do glove test. Should I just buy all the PCV parts and change em while I am working on head gasket?
+Robert DIY Haven't checked to see if hoses hard yet. The seller said that fluids did mix but they changed the oil immediately. Dipstick only shows slight cream color to oil. Car seems to turn over. Just no starting. its 2002 S40
+JOe Shmoe Usually, on these white block cars, if the fluid mixes, it also blows down the exhaust. At that point it has destroyed the engine, turbo and cat. Really a mess.
I guess I'll just have to tear it apart and see what everything looks like. Its not certain that oil made it into the exhaust system. I understand that some cars the intake gasket controls the separation between oil coolant and intake. There is no indication here that intake gasket went bad. Only the head gasket from overheating. Maybe oil intercooler went bad.
Hey Robert! I actually just replaced the pcv system today and found it to idle kinda rough afterwards. The breather box was right full of oil emulsification when i took it off. So after, i decided to take it for a test drive and i think i blew the turbo. Here's the vid ruclips.net/video/VwDXt5QKELU/видео.html
Robert, Can you switch out all those crimp-type hose clamps for the newer style hose clamps? i have to do this whole PCV job and am using parts from URO Parts, im ordering from my trusted supplier Rockauto.com i have a non turbo, 1995 850 GLT w/ EGR
Newer style clamps? What does that mean? Worm style clamps have been around for 100 years. You can use any clamps that fit. The oetiker clamps are thinner, quicker to use and usually do not damage the hose.
Robert DIY the kit i was looking at are from URO Parts, ive even looked at another kit from iPd USA, im not talking autozone or oreillys. and i meant the screw type hose clamps, only reason i ask is because ive never used the other style (the crimp ones). Could you recommend a kit number to help me out? my serial and engine numbers are: 334239 B5254S
Wow, these videos are great! I just replaced the PCV system in my '94. I have the non-turbo version with EGR, but the procedure is close enough. Thanks for doing these and all your Volvo tech videos, they are very helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Hi Robert, just finished using PVC videos to do this self replacement. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
Thank you very much Robert, this evening I recieved my new oil catcher and needed some information of how to replace it. Thanks to your educational material I am now prepeared on a 100%))))
Hi Robert, I just wanna say thank you!
I bought a used 1999 V70 2.4 Turbo a month ago and your videos helped me alot.
I made the glove test and apparantly my PCV system is clogged. I already ordered all the parts I need and I'm looking forward to replace them. Im sure your video will help me to get the job done.
Thank you and greetings from Germany!
selztal Your system is a little different but it will still need replaced. Thanks for watching and I'm glad they are helping you.
Thank you Robert, nice an detailed video just the way I like it. Keep 'em coming!
Thank you for watching.
I've always enjoyed your videos!
I have two Volvo's - a 2002 S60 and a 2007 V50. If I would have known how crazy it is to handle a PCV situation I may have bought more Subbies. As a matter of maintenance I've replaced the PCV valve on our other cars and it is a matter of minutes. To do a Volvo is hours of labor and very costly.
I've read that other cars use the same engineered system but what were they thinking to create the positive crank ventilation.
More reason that I believe that engineering on cars is done to allow the service department to have more billable hours.
+Thomas Miller Trying to help the environment remain breathable.
Thank you, Robert. Very helpful videos on PCV system replacement. I'm going to try it.
so grateful for all your videos buddy. Thanks
NinjaBenification Thank you for watching.
Hi Henry, I am not able to reply to your message. You must have some kind of security setting on your account. Anywho, 6 in one hand, half dozen in the other since I already have the tool. I guess I like Okie, even though they are one time use clamps.
I have a 2001 Volvo s40 1.9 turbo. I was planning to change the pcv system because I'm having rough idling and stalling during idling the car also getting p0122, p0102 codes. I was gonna try to just clean the ptc valve that you show at the end of this video but I don't know where it is in my car. i had a friend check my car with his obd2 scanner with a program and it was showing that i wasn't getting any MAP pressure.
+Eddie ponce follow the codes.
okie champs or screw champs? What do you prefer Robert?
Nice job Robert, Keep up the good work. Props!!
+Timothy Hutchings thanks for watching.
It is very useful for me! Thanks, Robert!
You are welcome and thanks for watching.
I have and error po237 but my car won't start when I was driving the car stalled and stopped by accident I put to much oil in it and shoot up through the dip stick And won't start Checked battery just need some info if pcv value is fixed will the car or could there be more problems
cj channel Have you Googled the code? - ruclips.net/video/YiPAPu-K8OI/видео.html
Hello! I have changed the PCV system on two 850's. Both times I had a really hard time getting one of the bolts for the manifold off. It's the lower one behind the servo reservoir etc. How did you do to get that one loose?
Frejve Two or 3 extensions and a 1/4" swivel.
What year?
Wish you were here in Spokane, Wa to fix my V70.
Any fishing involved?
What size wrench do I need to get the EGR pipe off.. I only have a 17 and it does not fit.
+Mark Bohannan 22mm.
Robert, is there any reason you do not rotate the throttle by hand in the engine bay when you need to increase engine speed to inflate your glove?
No, mainly because my car has the cover over it. On some cars you can mess up the throttle body assembly if you move the throttle by hand, but it will not harm this car.
You really do NOT have to throttle the car to do this test. If it blows up at idle you have a bad PCV system or worn motor.
Where does that second pipe on the PCV water hose connect to? The one on the back side of the motor above the turbo area
cylinder head.
Are those clamp pliers boot clamp pliers? And as such those clamps are one time use? Thanks again.
+Frets Nirvana they are called oetiker clamps. They are one time use clamps but I have reused them. Usually thinner, quicker to install and for uses that are not to tight.
Thanks again!
Hello Robert, what is the difference of the PCV valve system of a 94-98 Volvos and 99-00 Volvos? Thank you
+johnnie versionone parts and intake manifold. Also some parts have coolant going through them.
Robert DIY Thanks for your help
Hello, Robert. I need answer to the question what will happen if I cut the hose coming from the head, close the part going to the separator and vent the part coming from the head to the atmosphere by extending it and putting filter at the end of it?
I'm about to do it and I can't find any information on someone else who's done it. The reason is that the mechanics in my area do not acknowledge that kind of maintenance. They tried to rip me off with engine rebuild. I don't feel comfortable trying to do it myself due to lack of experience and fear of mistake.
Wow
At 5:01 my manifold doesn't have that? It does not have anything on it to where I can plug my line to? it's a 1994 850 Turbo. That's so weird.. It has a block off plate instead. Yet my pcv kit comes with that line on it?
Vacuum tree.
Robert, is there any way to distinguish between a bad PTvc system or a blown turbo? We have an 01 xc70 which started blowing heavy oil smoke one day on way home. Haven't driven it since, assumed turbo went, but was told it might not have. Any ideas how to distinguish it? Thanks
ruclips.net/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/oRwDce_ALkk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Bp4CtNaZh6U/видео.html
Hi Robert,
How do you replace the bolt underneath the manifold which attachés to the bracket on the engine block? It's virtually impossible to line up the bolt to thread it from below.
I have small hands. I reach everything from up top.
Yes that is a cramping, skin removing process. lol Nice move on the fan, it makes all of it easier.
Awesome video... For me it was easier to leave the dipstick on the intake manifold... Pops right back into the block when I put it back
Nice, thanks for sharing.
@@RobertDIY it's a pleasure... Hard bolt to get off... 😂🔩. No more street racing for my Volvo 😂
Thanks so much for these videos! They're so helpful... Question for you though, what do you think this job should cost at and independent?
Good question, I'm about to add estimate pricing to my videos. ;) It depends on the car you have. The turbo cars cost more but the parts kits are about the same.
Turbo cars $600, NA cars $350.
Whatever shop you take it to, make sure they have experience with doing the job. If not, they will likely fail to do something important like clean out the block ports or the PTC.
Robert DIY Ok.. thanks so much and yes, you should def add pricing to your vids. You're providing an invaluable service. W/o you, and Matthew's forum, I'd have spent a lot more money! You're not close to NJ are you?
No, I'm in Albuquerque NM.
Robert DIY ok, I was gonna come hire you to do it for me. A little too far to drive. lol Thanks again though for all your help!
Hi again Robert….I just went through replacing the pcv on my 1998 Turbo Volvo as per your tutorial. However, I now have an air leak that I cannot find because I cannot hear exactly where it is coming from. I took all apart and put it back together again …but although all looks well …I still hear the leak. Could I use a leak down test kit to better hear where the leak is coming from while the car isn't running?
+Frets Nirvana did you use the '98 video?
+Frets Nirvana ruclips.net/video/hwCzPPiBxk8/видео.html
+Frets Nirvana ruclips.net/video/G46aNGJM94I/видео.html
I got it Robert ....there was a vacuum hose that had come loose under the accelerator assembly as well as the clamp on the top of the intake manifold would not stay put. IPD sent worm clamps and they would not hold in either situation, so I had to order some oediker clamps and tool. I also did a smoke test that helped me find the leaks. Always learning here ....thanks to people like you who are willing to give help.
Awesome!
Robert, thank you. I have a question. I've got my 97 850 T5 tore into and am nearly ready to put in all my vacuum hoses, PCV hoses, etc. One thing I didn't document as I was doing the tear down was where one of the hoses goes. Next to the PCV connection (on the end by the turbo), there's a nipple for another hose. I can't remember where the other end of that hose goes. Any help would be appreciated.
Probably to the side of the intake manifold.
Robert. I assume the engine tear down and PCV replacement requires the same steps for base engine Volvo's. Are there any shortcuts you can recommend that do not require the intake manifold, fuel rail and throttle body disconnects?
Nope.
Hi Robert, thanks for your videos, always very helpful. I've nearly finished undertaking this on my 98 V70R but I've got an issue, next to the PTC I seem to have another nipple than the one in this video, it had what seems like an aftermarket hose that went from there to the left side of the intake. The new PCV kit had a hose that was missing on the original which now goes to the left side of the intake. Where should the hose next to the PTC in the turbo downpipe go to? Can I just put to the manifold vacuum tree?
Thanks
+Andrew Noble did you watch the video for the '98 cars?
There is a hose with a grey check valve that goes back there.
+Robert DIY Thanks, got it, the one with the T joint near the throttle body. When I took mine apart that hadn't been connected to anything at all. All seems in order now, the system was unbelievably clogged, can't wait to start the car and check the pressure from the oil cap.
Thanks again, Robert
Cool, do it with the engine warm.
Hey Robert love you’re videos in my 1999 c70 the banjo bolts are hell to put back on any idea how to do it easier
Start it before you secure the intake manifold. Start it by hand. That's a 45 minute bolt, Volvo mechanics use to hire me to install that bolt. 😬
@@RobertDIY thanks Robert got it back on
Do you clean or replace the egr valve
clean
Hello Robert, I have looked at many of your instruction videos now and would like to thank you from the UK for all your comprehensive advice.
I have recently bought a 1998 V70 T5 and have some smoke through the dipstick tube indicating I need to do this task, Am I right in assuming that my car does not have an egr valve so I can save myself some time doing the replacement?
No EGR, shouldn't anyway. Did you do the glove test? Volvo PCV System Check, 850, V70, S70, and others - Auto Repair Series
Robert DIY Yes I did the glove test with a latex glove and the glove inflated, other than the slight smoke through the dipstick and the glove test the spark plug cover when removed showed no oil so I am guessing that a service mechanic has cleaned this up in the past., the car has done 187,000 miles with its one previous owner and although it has a comprehensive Volvo main dealer service history this is one job that has been overlooked and as we intend to keep the car for a good while I will do it.
Yes, do change the system/parts to remove the head pressure. I'm not sure why so many neglect that system.
Robert DIY i believe the PTC needs to be cleaned periodically to enable the system to work correctly. may be worth pointing people to that first, then the other bits?
9 Times out of 10 the entire system is trashed.
Where do I connect my hoses from the air intake manifold
to the air intake nipple.
@@RobertDIY where should the hose go to from the drivers side of the manifold ?
I have oil coming out the oil cap seal. If the hard plastic line that comes from the trap and travels around the block to the PTC has pressure in it (tested by capping with my finger then released) wouldn't that indicate that the trap and those lines are not blocked as there was flow out of the trap to the intake/ptc. (as long as the ptc itself has a clean hole) ? I ask because it seams like this might be a good test to tell if the pressure is coming from bad rings or valves. If the trap system is blocked, would there be pressure being generated in that pipe or just the block because it could not get out that tube? What blockage exactly causes the pressure build in the pcv/trap set up? Thanks for your time. Just trying to figure out whether it's worth doing that job if it will have no effect and it is bad rings/valves!
+Lensvoodoo Huh? I have no idea. Maybe you should check with Volvo. If the rings are bad, compression will be low. Pulling that tube off and putting your finger over it, does not do/complete a compression test. lol
Ha, yes, i realize that. But if a fellow can't figure out whether his pcv/trap is blocked, it could be a better test than checking pressure at the dipstick/oil cap because that could have 3 possible causes -rings, valves or trap. If a blocked trap means that pressure would not make it out to that line, it would elliminate one possibility. Then a compression check should be done. What do you think? I need to swap some lensvoodoo for some (carvoodoo!)
Where can I find the PCV system replacement kit?
Your videos are great!
+Les Grata Thanks for watching.
Should only need to mess with those if you get a low oil pressure light.
Hi Robert, do all 850's have EGR valves or just specific years
Most of them from up to early '96. You can run the VIN checker on the Volvo website and see if your car has it, or simply look at the intake under the throttle body.
why you dont clean the parts first?
Takes time.
Hi Robert, I did my pcv change on my 98 v70 I replaced everything and it still blows up a glove slightly. Any ideas? Thank you
The first video suggest/recommends that you do a compression test, did you do that?
Are you doing the test with the engine hot?
ruclips.net/video/s76DjowN68I/видео.html
Hey robert i did it with the engine cold, i havent checked my compression i will try that, should i be doing it with the engine cold or hot ? Thank you
Robert, procedure should be the same for a 1998 S70 non-Turbo...is that correct?
Yes but easier. Your car should NOT have EGR or the PTC turbo hose equipment.
No turbo, its a base model. Thanks.
I understand.
You've got a very good library of How-To Videos. you done a great job , in my opinion, of putting them together. keep up the good work.
Hey Robert, I just finished the installation of a new PCV System on my 1996 Volvo 850 n/a, and on first startup after sitting in the garage for over a week, there was light white smoke for about 30 seconds to a minute after startup, followed by rather heavy white smoke. I immediately shut the car off and went to go smell the tail pipe - no noticeable smell of oil or anything - nothing but water in the exhaust. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and went to go start it again. Exact same results, light white smoke at first - while the engine was running, the exhaust did not smell like oil, but it burned my nostrils because the smell was so strong and potent. I immediately backed the car out of the garage and took it down to the culdesac like 6 houses down. Drove perfectly fine the entire way, but on my way back I noticed the thick white smoke in my rear view. Is this likely just water condensation getting worse as the engine warms, or is this something I should be concerned about? Should I let it idle for 10 minutes to burn some of the water off, or just drive it around the neighborhoods a bit? What do you think it could be? I also replaced the fuel injectors, pump and filter. Nothing is leaking, and there are no dash lights at all.
+LJRossPhoto what pump?
+LJRossPhoto did you connect the oil trap box lines on top backwards?
It's a Bosch Fuel Pump Insert from FCP Euro. Came in new Bosch packaging and everything.
For the oil trap lines, the back/left port is going to the top of the engine, and the forward/right port is going to the air intake hose.
I used 1/4 inch fuel line for the small line on the end of the intake manifold.
I did a bit of research, and the thick white smoke is common with stuck fuel injectors. Maybe I got a bad one. They're GB Remanufactured injectors from FCP Euro.
Found the problem! It was a stuck fuel injector. Unplugged the harness wire, and bam! No smoke, perfectly smooth idle. I'm not looking forward to pulling the fuel rail again to replace that damn injector.
+LJRossPhoto I've never had an issue with an injector to my knowledge. I would have thought the smoke would have been black.
bought car with blown head gasket. So of course won't run and can't do glove test. Should I just buy all the PCV parts and change em while I am working on head gasket?
+JOe Shmoe That is what I do. Are the hoses hard?
+JOe Shmoe Also, if fluid mixed, you may want to get another engine. What car is it?
+Robert DIY Haven't checked to see if hoses hard yet. The seller said that fluids did mix but they changed the oil immediately. Dipstick only shows slight cream color to oil. Car seems to turn over. Just no starting. its 2002 S40
+JOe Shmoe Usually, on these white block cars, if the fluid mixes, it also blows down the exhaust. At that point it has destroyed the engine, turbo and cat. Really a mess.
I guess I'll just have to tear it apart and see what everything looks like. Its not certain that oil made it into the exhaust system. I understand that some cars the intake gasket controls the separation between oil coolant and intake. There is no indication here that intake gasket went bad. Only the head gasket from overheating. Maybe oil intercooler went bad.
It feels like a can skip a lot of these steps since I only have the 144 hp non-turbo from 1996 model.
yep
Hey Robert! I actually just replaced the pcv system today and found it to idle kinda rough afterwards. The breather box was right full of oil emulsification when i took it off. So after, i decided to take it for a test drive and i think i blew the turbo. Here's the vid ruclips.net/video/VwDXt5QKELU/видео.html
rebelmaderighteous That's what it looks like. It was probably on the edge.
I used 20W50 oil and it solved the blow by problem.
jim davis Yikes!
Robert, Can you switch out all those crimp-type hose clamps for the newer style hose clamps?
i have to do this whole PCV job and am using parts from URO Parts, im ordering from my trusted supplier Rockauto.com
i have a non turbo, 1995 850 GLT w/ EGR
ruclips.net/video/SIF24FiWjCo/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/g95TFdMkrbg/видео.html
All suppliers can sell JUNK parts, they are in business to sell parts and make profit.
Newer style clamps? What does that mean? Worm style clamps have been around for 100 years. You can use any clamps that fit. The oetiker clamps are thinner, quicker to use and usually do not damage the hose.
Robert DIY the kit i was looking at are from URO Parts, ive even looked at another kit from iPd USA, im not talking autozone or oreillys.
and i meant the screw type hose clamps, only reason i ask is because ive never used the other style (the crimp ones).
Could you recommend a kit number to help me out?
my serial and engine numbers are:
334239
B5254S
you don't clean nothing
what?