maybe but not where I live really at all. My buddy has one of these engines with aluminum case no therms with over 150k miles on it. no need to rebuild. no leaks no oil consumption. and good compression. I would say you could never get those kind of miles out of a mag case.
I was watching a vintage Porsche engine guy talking about how important zinc is for your oil in an "older" engine. It was news to me. Perhaps worth looking into if you haven't already
Hey Mike, this is exactly the type of build I’ve been contemplating, I can’t wait to see how she runs! My only major change? Dual Solex carbs . Minor changes, electronic ignition and electric fuel pump w/ a regulator and return to stabilize fuel pressures and supply cool fuel at all times.
Nice video. I like the comment on the progressive carb.. I solved all my Webber problems with a Holley 2110.. Fun to drive but not the most gas efficient
I been checking your videos and thanks I have learned some new things,like removing the front pressure piston on the block I was told by someone else that if I removed it they will be no oil pressure.i guess he was wrong, thanks Mike
Thanks for this build series, really enjoying it. Recently started running castroil with the stp added myself, makes me kick myself for all that extra cash I spent on Brad penn oil
yea I was going to do that but it would have been way too many video cuts. and really hard because you do each part one at a time several times to get it to fit.
call 'em mills instead.. (sheesh motor.. engine.. wha wha) oooooo I like the oil gauge idea... What!? three vids and it still doesn't run? you guys are killin' me here.. I stumbled on the first part and have enjoyed an old walk in the park from the old days.. but I can't hang out for a fourth video.. We had fun with vw's back in the day.. and I thank you for a great set of video's you did a great job on that baby.. But they were only little one day builds (and mostly corvairs) for our sand buggies.. Most of our efforts went on the bigger engines for our cars.. although the chicks did dig the vw's back in the 70's up north here.. and we did end up working on a lot of girls cars.. there was just not that much interest in them.. so if I see it great if not thanks for the time.. carry on.. and be safe!
Yeah we were going to put it in here but it kind of drug on for quite a while with all the extra stuff and it was just going to be too long plus it was another couple days because of all the fabrication for the hoses and all that stuff plus the shroud lot of trimming
Just watch for water build up in your breather box setup! It comes from condensation being built up over time from being hot and then cold. I had problems with that.
"The Oxford English Dictionary defines “motor” as a machine that supplies motive power for a vehicle or other device with moving parts. Similarly, it tells us that an engine is a machine with moving parts that converts power into motion " says MIT literature professor Mary Fuller
Nice design for the somebody could actually use a catch can for the original and add a small PC valve like you would put on a pinto or some other small engine would suck all the bad junk out of the engine. And for you guys at still love your oil bath cleaners nothing wrong with that as long as you run them with dexron transmission fluid no filter 3 times better and you can over fill just a bit helps lubricate the valves.
We stopped using valvoline racing many years ago because under high heat it fails. Goes in the engine thick and comes out like water Switched to castrol or kendal and they take the heat better Try it at 3000 miles remove the drain plug on both and the castrol comes out just like it goes in and the VR1 drains out much faster. already broke down.
I'm a little confused. If you have the thermostat fins, you don't need to put the the type III tin around the cylinders? Does it affect anything if you had both thermostat fins and the type III tin?
if you have thermostat and need it you cant really run cool tin. the type 3 has a different thermostat from what i remember. you could put the flaps in then make our own little lever to open them when its cold.
I was thinking of how Porsche did it with the head being water cooled and the fan for the jugs. Was either going to put something over the heads or right at the fan inlet.
@@JWClassicVW fascinating! First time I’ve ever heard of that. How does it work? I am thinking that in dry places it works amazingly; I wonder how it works in hot and humid places.
that stuff and rotella are good but I am not sure about them on vw. how much better or worse they would be than castrol. the thing to consider is zinc. I would ad stp to that just to insure the proper zinc is in the oil. I like kendall or castrol with a bit of stp. They have changed the zinc specs and allowances in recent years due to not as many sliding cam shafts. so many cars are not roller.
@@Mikefngarage I’ve used conventional Rotella for years. A friend in Miami started using it in his car. At some point he had to use something else (can’t recall what it was) and his Gene Berg oil temp dipstick would register high temps at higher sustained speeds on the highway, oil light flickering or lighting up completely. As soon as he went back to Rotella 40W the oil light wouldn’t come on under the same conditions.
@@vayabroder729 yea diesel oil is super high temp. Castrol or Kendall are great too. They hold very high temps. Unlike Valvoline racing. which IMO does not hold up the the racing label. Rotella is great oil. I have never needed to try it in my air cooled because Castol and Kendall work very good. dont break down and maintain viscosity. But if I could not find it or they were out I would use rotella as a second option. I use T6 in my diesel pickups. Synthetic.
my dates are a bit off they were just starting to do this more in the late 80s or early 90s. mostly on stroker engines. More often today because so many guys are building strokers because the cost is much less then back then
Seeing how that’s going in a bus you must have the mustache bar that bolts to the front of the motor then to the frame to hold it all in place. Just saying.....
What is the difference between motor or engine ? And what do you mean to say sandseale engine ? And my other question is right side engine has more air flow as compared to left side so how do you balance this problem ?
Decades ago I had same problem. If you have a single center carb you're limited on what cam you run since runners are so long . Engine vacuum wasn't sufficient at low rpm with long runners. I put a performance street cam in and idle was easy to adjust. Track only cam you need dual carb short runners for a good idle.
Hey Mike, a couple of questions. I have a 71' westfalia, what's my maximum speed before I start pushing my engine to it's limit, I'm talking freeway driving. Also, I have decided after years of buying and selling a variety of vw vehicles, my last one to keep will be a single cab, some 8 years ago l owned a 62' single cab and like an idiot l sold it thinking a could grab another one in the future, since then prices exploded and now they're bringing stupid numbers, well, there's a 62' with double treasure chest (like my old one) slammed, 2161 engine. Freeway flier, with hoops and canvas,the works! The color is nice except for the bumpers, they're asking 28.5 buy it now, with 6 days to go, the catch is, it's in Indiana, so moving it to Cali will be expensive, question, what do you think should be my final bet number? Sorry for the long post, but l really appreciate your opinion in these matters, hit me back soon. Thanks
bit steep on the single cab at 28 that is why nobody has pulled the trigger. about maybe 20 would be a max in that cond. Dont know what is under that blanket.
max speed on a westy with mostly stock stuff is around 60 you should see what the ratwell gear ratios are plus make sure tire sizes are above stock. Mostly I think people geared them up look at ratwell.com gear ratios.
@@Mikefngarage l was thinking the same thing, l asked for pictures of the seat without the blanket, I'm going to bail at 20. And as far as the westy, 60 mph sounds right. Thanks
@@athruzathruz I think if you got that for 20 you would be pretty close to value. If you want to gear up the bay I like 412 and 89 4th gear. on a rebuild with an oversized engine like 1776 or larger. I might be building a 1968 which is another bulletproof combo for a bus as well.
Mechanical fuel pump is a big liability on a vw engine both for fire and washing you're oil out if the diapham fails or the press in fuel line barbs come out same with the stock carbs huge liability
20w-50 oil is way too thick. a low bearing surface temperature is dependent upon oil flow to take away heat. 20w-50 will give too low an oil flow across any bearing surface at any engine operating temperature. extreme oil viscosity will make for very high oil pressures which indicate blocked oil passages and low flow, thus creating high bearing temperatures. the shear strength of modern low viscosity synthetic oils is high enough to deal with the lubrication needs of close tolerance bearing surfaces. so even at high temps the sync oil can protect the bearings better. the critical factor is to keep the bearing surface cool and high oil flow is necessary for that. running 0w30 or 0w40 will produce higher oil temps which shows more heat is being extracted from the bearing surfaces, which is what you want. one can deal with high oil temps by using more and better oil coolers.
I had to rewind to make sure I heard that correctly. I remember drilling a case for full flow over 30 years ago. And even then, it wasn't exactly a 'new' procedure.
I do recall some guys doing it as I was getting out of it in the 90s but I was not into those kinds of builds Mine would work fine with dog house only.
i dont understand why not use M 10 1. 0 that the case is meant for instead of npt 27or 29 etc etc ,,,,,,its not the same no matter how many times you tell yourself it fits ,,,,,,,,,,, just saying
Please comment like or dislike other comments and like or dislike video thanks for watching.
Always Mike... on it!!
pro tip : watch series at Flixzone. I've been using them for watching all kinds of movies lately.
@@flynnandres9533 1968
The thermostat for the cooling fins is only about letting the engine heat up fast. This helps with longevity if they work.
maybe but not where I live really at all. My buddy has one of these engines with aluminum case no therms with over 150k miles on it. no need to rebuild. no leaks no oil consumption. and good compression. I would say you could never get those kind of miles out of a mag case.
I was watching a vintage Porsche engine guy talking about how important zinc is for your oil in an "older" engine. It was news to me. Perhaps worth looking into if you haven't already
called Zddp aka zinc. additive. lots of that in STP oil treatment.
They make so many different shrouds, my favorite is the Porsche style with big fan and 911 alternator and it molded very nice it really cools
Hey Mike, this is exactly the type of build I’ve been contemplating, I can’t wait to see how she runs!
My only major change? Dual Solex carbs . Minor changes, electronic ignition and electric fuel pump w/ a regulator and return to stabilize fuel pressures and supply cool fuel at all times.
will it run video and first start coming up. it is mean.
Yes!!! great stuff Mike I love build videos brother!!
Nice video. I like the comment on the progressive carb.. I solved all my Webber problems with a Holley 2110.. Fun to drive but not the most gas efficient
I been checking your videos and thanks I have learned some new things,like removing the front pressure piston on the block I was told by someone else that if I removed it they will be no oil pressure.i guess he was wrong, thanks Mike
we did not remove it we replaced it with the original piston. I would not remove it.
Yes Jose... lol you don't want to remove it
Excellent video, it’s nice to see what’s new in today’s world
There is all kinda new stuff I'm finding the AA 94mm jugs great!
Thanks for this build series, really enjoying it. Recently started running castroil with the stp added myself, makes me kick myself for all that extra cash I spent on Brad penn oil
Yup that STP is great for builds, I add a little Marvels Mystery oil... that trick I learned from VW Darrin!
Sjp's the worst oil additive you can use you might as well run a good high mileage oil it has really good additives
It would be great if you could go over exactly what to take off of the shrouds to make them fit.
yea I was going to do that but it would have been way too many video cuts. and really hard because you do each part one at a time several times to get it to fit.
call 'em mills instead.. (sheesh motor.. engine.. wha wha) oooooo I like the oil gauge idea... What!? three vids and it still doesn't run? you guys are killin' me here.. I stumbled on the first part and have enjoyed an old walk in the park from the old days.. but I can't hang out for a fourth video.. We had fun with vw's back in the day.. and I thank you for a great set of video's you did a great job on that baby.. But they were only little one day builds (and mostly corvairs) for our sand buggies.. Most of our efforts went on the bigger engines for our cars.. although the chicks did dig the vw's back in the 70's up north here.. and we did end up working on a lot of girls cars.. there was just not that much interest in them.. so if I see it great if not thanks for the time.. carry on.. and be safe!
Yeah we were going to put it in here but it kind of drug on for quite a while with all the extra stuff and it was just going to be too long plus it was another couple days because of all the fabrication for the hoses and all that stuff plus the shroud lot of trimming
Those dang gremlins be messing with the engine...lol Love your oil gauge as well, I'll be stealing that idea!
Nice design I also ran the two coolers with a nice spin-on oil filter.
Right on
Just watch for water build up in your breather box setup! It comes from condensation being built up over time from being hot and then cold. I had problems with that.
Might want to check on synthetic oil ...doesn't carry heat to oil cooler.....watch vw darrin just a thought
I enjoy the comments and information. Did you do a video on the fan housing?
"The Oxford English Dictionary defines “motor” as a machine that supplies motive power for a vehicle or other device with moving parts. Similarly, it tells us that an engine is a machine with moving parts that converts power into motion " says MIT literature professor Mary Fuller
well in slang motor is know as engine.
Nice design for the somebody could actually use a catch can for the original and add a small PC valve like you would put on a pinto or some other small engine would suck all the bad junk out of the engine. And for you guys at still love your oil bath cleaners nothing wrong with that as long as you run them with dexron transmission fluid no filter 3 times better and you can over fill just a bit helps lubricate the valves.
20/50 oil for air cooled motors maybe during break-in ad some zinc to help.
stp has zinc we have some in there thanks for the comment and good thinking.
I like using the Valvoline VR1 20/50 during the summer and the 10/30 during the winter... the VR1 has zinc
I use castrol 20/50 with lucas oil additive for easier gear changes in motorcycle been finding engine case is cooler and gear changes are smoother.
We stopped using valvoline racing many years ago because under high heat it fails. Goes in the engine thick and comes out like water Switched to castrol or kendal and they take the heat better Try it at 3000 miles remove the drain plug on both and the castrol comes out just like it goes in and the VR1 drains out much faster. already broke down.
I'm a little confused. If you have the thermostat fins, you don't need to put the the type III tin around the cylinders? Does it affect anything if you had both thermostat fins and the type III tin?
if you have thermostat and need it you cant really run cool tin. the type 3 has a different thermostat from what i remember. you could put the flaps in then make our own little lever to open them when its cold.
Qas wanting to know if you ever thought about adding a mister system to help with cooling.
one of my oldest ideas. still want to try that one
I was thinking of how Porsche did it with the head being water cooled and the fan for the jugs. Was either going to put something over the heads or right at the fan inlet.
@@timathysills26 that was another idea I was throwing around making a water jacket head and fans on the jugs.
It works great I had a mister system when I lived in Arizona.... Awesome
@@JWClassicVW fascinating! First time I’ve ever heard of that. How does it work? I am thinking that in dry places it works amazingly; I wonder how it works in hot and humid places.
Some of your information is a little misleading. But like you say it's your information and it means 🤏🏽. I just glad I'm not a newbie 🤷🏽♂️.
Really....
Have you tried DELO oil? My old vw guy switched to the DELO 15/40. Says it holds up best in air cooled.
that stuff and rotella are good but I am not sure about them on vw. how much better or worse they would be than castrol. the thing to consider is zinc. I would ad stp to that just to insure the proper zinc is in the oil. I like kendall or castrol with a bit of stp. They have changed the zinc specs and allowances in recent years due to not as many sliding cam shafts. so many cars are not roller.
@@Mikefngarage I’ve used conventional Rotella for years. A friend in Miami started using it in his car. At some point he had to use something else (can’t recall what it was) and his Gene Berg oil temp dipstick would register high temps at higher sustained speeds on the highway, oil light flickering or lighting up completely. As soon as he went back to Rotella 40W the oil light wouldn’t come on under the same conditions.
@@vayabroder729 yea diesel oil is super high temp. Castrol or Kendall are great too. They hold very high temps. Unlike Valvoline racing. which IMO does not hold up the the racing label. Rotella is great oil. I have never needed to try it in my air cooled because Castol and Kendall work very good. dont break down and maintain viscosity. But if I could not find it or they were out I would use rotella as a second option. I use T6 in my diesel pickups. Synthetic.
Like to know more on the exhaust flanges you welded on... like exactly what you did to weld and fit them. Cheers
Been running the same Motorola alternator for 20 years. Still charging
is that Oil Breather Kit
? 12:33 whats for exacly? does it work for cooling oil or etc.
crankcase ventalation on larger engines. that box is just full of foam. and it is vented on the lid.
Yup I've got two of those on my engine about to upgrade all the hoses to -8an... going to look super cool!
Did I misunderstand, or did you say full flow is a more recent thing (~10 years)? Full flow was the norm when I rebuilt my T3 back in ~'94
my dates are a bit off they were just starting to do this more in the late 80s or early 90s. mostly on stroker engines. More often today because so many guys are building strokers because the cost is much less then back then
Motor is the German word for Engine ;)
ha ha for sure or oil galleys somebody says they are galleries. Never hears that.
What were you mumbling about the pressure relief system at the beginning?
we removed the step piston from the pressure relief kit and put back in the stock piston with the high pressure springs.
Have you tried Shell Rotella? I was told it has high zinc content and holds up well.
yes t5 is great too. I havent tried t6 synthetic. might be good but also might seep out somewhere.
I agree with on the oil for sure
Btw love your videos
Great zip tie tip
Zip ties are always great in a pinch... I keep some in my little tool bag in the car!!
Seeing how that’s going in a bus you must have the mustache bar that bolts to the front of the motor then to the frame to hold it all in place. Just saying.....
agree, typically don't need thermostats. what happens when they fail? big problems. they fail closed mostly right?
yea for sure.
Are dual 34s too big for a 1600
What is the difference between motor or engine ?
And what do you mean to say sandseale engine ?
And my other question is right side engine has more air flow as compared to left side so how do you balance this problem ?
A motor is electric. An engine is fuel.
My experience with the Weber Progressive carburetor was not good; 32/36 if I remember correctly. It could never be adjusted for the car to run right.
Decades ago I had same problem. If you have a single center carb you're limited on what cam you run since runners are so long . Engine vacuum wasn't sufficient at low rpm with long runners. I put a performance street cam in and idle was easy to adjust. Track only cam you need dual carb short runners for a good idle.
Great content.
I am doing full flow on my engine
Yup yup I did full flow on my 2276cc I love it!!
send your unused t-stats to Mustie1
absolutely never see them anymore. BUt yea he needs them up there if you drive in the winter.
Hey Mike, a couple of questions.
I have a 71' westfalia, what's my maximum speed before I start pushing my engine to it's limit, I'm talking freeway driving. Also,
I have decided after years of buying and selling a variety of vw vehicles, my last one to keep will be a single cab, some 8 years ago l owned a 62' single cab and like an idiot l sold it thinking a could grab another one in the future, since then prices exploded and now they're bringing stupid numbers, well, there's a 62' with double treasure chest (like my old one) slammed, 2161 engine. Freeway flier, with hoops and canvas,the works! The color is nice except for the bumpers, they're asking
28.5 buy it now, with 6 days to go, the catch is, it's in Indiana, so moving it to Cali will be expensive, question, what do you think should be my final bet number? Sorry for the long post, but l really appreciate your opinion in these matters, hit me back soon. Thanks
I forgot to mention it's posted on ebay
bit steep on the single cab at 28 that is why nobody has pulled the trigger. about maybe 20 would be a max in that cond. Dont know what is under that blanket.
max speed on a westy with mostly stock stuff is around 60 you should see what the ratwell gear ratios are plus make sure tire sizes are above stock. Mostly I think people geared them up look at ratwell.com gear ratios.
@@Mikefngarage l was thinking the same thing, l asked for pictures of the seat without the blanket, I'm going to bail at 20. And as far as the westy, 60 mph sounds right. Thanks
@@athruzathruz I think if you got that for 20 you would be pretty close to value. If you want to gear up the bay I like 412 and 89 4th gear. on a rebuild with an oversized engine like 1776 or larger. I might be building a 1968 which is another bulletproof combo for a bus as well.
Car Craft clamps link
carcraftstore.com/2boltheaderflange.aspx
Mike Fn Garage
Thank you.
Good stuff, I'll check this out too!
The Kombi should have been turned around so they could work in the light!!!
Mechanical fuel pump is a big liability on a vw engine both for fire and washing you're oil out if the diapham fails or the press in fuel line barbs come out same with the stock carbs huge liability
happens sometimes but if you check your oil regularly you can catch it before it washes out the bearings. Been working on these 40 years now.
20w-50 oil is way too thick. a low bearing surface temperature is dependent upon oil flow to take away heat. 20w-50 will give too low an oil flow across any bearing surface at any engine operating temperature. extreme oil viscosity will make for very high oil pressures which indicate blocked oil passages and low flow, thus creating high bearing temperatures.
the shear strength of modern low viscosity synthetic oils is high enough to deal with the lubrication needs of close tolerance bearing surfaces. so even at high temps the sync oil can protect the bearings better. the critical factor is to keep the bearing surface cool and high oil flow is necessary for that. running 0w30 or 0w40 will produce higher oil temps which shows more heat is being extracted from the bearing surfaces, which is what you want.
one can deal with high oil temps by using more and better oil coolers.
Full flow last 10-20 years OMG better do more home work
I had to rewind to make sure I heard that correctly. I remember drilling a case for full flow over 30 years ago. And even then, it wasn't exactly a 'new' procedure.
not many people doing that in the late 80s
more of a late 90s thing I am talking about late 80s
I do recall some guys doing it as I was getting out of it in the 90s but I was not into those kinds of builds Mine would work fine with dog house only.
You can’t entirely too much
first
got me there ha ha thanks for that.
i dont understand why not use M 10 1. 0 that the case is meant for instead of npt 27or 29 etc etc ,,,,,,its not the same no matter how many times you tell yourself it fits ,,,,,,,,,,, just saying
Throw the bong away
Have you used Amsoil Oil 🛢?