You must know there is more than one way to build an engine :) I think you have an audience, and there is nothing from my side wishing you anything but the best to keep the VW scene alive
Born in the late 50's, I grew up rescueing neglected VW fastbacks with my dad in the late 60's and early 70's. Did my first full VW overhaul in auto mechanics class in 1973 for a local elderly couples VW Bug for the actual cost of the parts. We bought the rebuild parts kit with new jugs and pistons, and a felpro rebuild gasket set from JC Whitney. We also bought parts at that time from Warshowskis if you remember them. My next rebuild was for my Bradley GT kit car that I had purchased from a father/son team that had built it. This was in 1985 after I returned from living for five years in South Korea. The oily old doner 1600cc engine that came with their floor pan etc was pretty worn out and sadly not maintained properly. I did a full rebuild and upgrade to 1835cc's (new jugs and pistons designed for my block and heads). Ported and polished the intakes and exhause as much as possible and left much of the rest of the engine stock. Better push rod tubes and a few other good to do upgrades, and would up with a little rocket ship with the light weight fiberglass body of the Bradley GT. Wish I still had it. I have rebuilt many other engines mostly small block chevy and am doing a marine version 350 for my Bayliner currently. I have to say that I have enjoyed the VW engine rebuilds more than anything else. Something very satisfying about bringing these back to life and improving them as well. Thanks for this great content and giving us the benifit of all your years of experience with VW engines. It is invaluable information... Many thanks.... Joe
I know you will be using an aux oil cooler but if you use that oil pressure booster kit the stock cooler will be bypassed almost all the time. The stepped piston should only be used on single relief cases. Use the stock pistons and springs for more efficient oil control.
thanks I talked to chris and he was going to remove that piston not even knowing about this comment. Good call on that. We just didnt get that in this video.
that piston is only for dual or single relief with stock oil cooler. Full flow you can remove it. we will probably keep it infor break in 30 minute run then remove it when we put it in the car. better oil pressure plus we will have bypass hose.
@@Mikefngarage The stepped piston was for single relief type 3 engines in hot climates with upright cooler. The extra groove allows oil to flow to the cooler at all times regardless of piston position (oil temp). The chrome springs in the aftermarket kit are what provides the perceived increased pressure by keeping the pistons closed until pressures above 55 are reached. The cooler is bypassed at 45psi. I have found no evidence that the stepped piston was used in any dual relief cases as the oil control valve is what VW came up with to keep pressure up with hot oil. Here is the workshop manual reference www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1778557.jpg
Pro tip: @ timestamp approx 11:00 minutes it shows installing the distributor drive shaft. If you happen to drop it down on the wrong gear and it doesn't index up as shown, you may have a bit of trouble pulling it back out to correct it. Tip: Carefully use a 5/16 start tap and make a couple of threads. No need to make more than 1 -3 threads then screw in a long 5/16 bolt. Use the bolt to pull out the drive. Once removed, remove the bolt then thoroughly blow out any chips left in the spring hole. You can also use the bolt to stab it back in. From experience.
If your flywheel oil seal land has a bad groove then fit a sleeve to the surface. I don't know what they are called in the US but in the UK they are branded Speedy Sleeve. The come in just about every size you could imagine.
The best pushrod tubes are stock. The are always pushing. All the others have the o rings stick and they no longer expand and contract and will eventually leak. If your the guy that gets between 500 and 10,000 miles between builds , they work great.
Wow, it would have been great to have RUclips back in the 60's when I started building Engines and Transaxles... All of my training was through VOA and we only used Metrics for inplay. And of course we only used original parts, until Empi came into the picture and Joe Vittone made Empi a world wide name. I worked for Joe a couple of times, and the last time was when he hired me back to end up taking over as his Service Manager at Econo Auto Center, in Riverside, Calif.
14:14 He's describing that the wrist pin clips have a flat side and a radiused side. The flat side goes to the outside of the piston (the radiused side goes toward the wrist pin). Very good video.
Good for Turbo motor. Pauter Machining did alot of my work but it was on type 4 stroker with Scat 82mm Chromemolly crank Pautar Machine Rods 103mm which turned out to be 2798cc for a 914
Great to watch, brings back so many memories when I did this for 30 years at Speedcraft Volkswagen in Rhode Island. rebuilt so many of these , old school though, been away from the aircooled for 15 years and now back, what price differences there is now. keep up the excellent videos!
Been through the same. also parts differences. more expensive and different manufacturers. Lots of these young guys hit me up for saying stuff inaccurately but I check their youtube channel and there is none. and nobody else to teach. so just do my best and keep on going.
the tubing cutters you have i have the same kind, the little one is basically for copper tubing and the big one is for brake lines or steel lines. just a little info.
Go to a lot of VW Motors one thing was shut down play is use an old nut to take down flywheel actor and play is in specs install your oil seal and o-ring a little oil on the seal and o-ring use Loctite on a new flywheel Bolt 8 Penny the flywheel and lightened flywheel is a excellent thing to do that way you don't beat out the rear main bearing and torque flywheel to specs. Do not use the impact gun when torquing new flywheel Bolt
@@Mikefngarage However though. Assembled valve height changes as they seat and wear in. I would set them a little loose at first and let them burn in for awhile. At least on the exhaust valves. And then reset them for the noise factor. Also in the old days before the advent of elephant feet. The rocker arms were set up on the shaft with a little offset to the valve stem to spin the valve a little as they lifted. I don't know if it matters anymore about spinning the valves off there seats or not. I'm old school and worked for VW in the early 70s.
at this point im afraid of putting a 2 liter in my 64 bus because of heat/reliability/constant tweaking intervals increased Do 2 litres last just as long as a 1600 stock motor?
I think this is still pretty much near the stock motor. or you can do a 74 mm which is good too and easier. if you have a good case. we went 78 because of aluminum.
A lot of good info Mike I never did anything but 1600 stock dual port rebuilds; you pointed out a number of little checks one would only kmow with a lot of experience thanks for sharing..
lots came from chris too. he has built more motors than me and with the most recent parts. I would not have known about that oil pump issue. he had a few cars with that same issue.
Because aftermarket parts have different spec as he mentioned. Quoting the recommended tolerances( gaps or torque numbers) for this particular combo of parts will have every kiddie out there doing the same on his stock 1600 with a totally different combo of parts.
no they wont fit. but usually when you do a modified engine, you will be using a merged exhaust system so the heater boxes and lower tins wont fit anyway. this is one of the reasons for using the type 3 or cool tin. without the lower tins the stock deflectors will not work properly. and that is all of them. with some of the exhaust they will fit so I use them as well but with the merged I dont.
Great info as always Mike!! Love seeing all these new parts go together. There are some cool tricks I've learned with pushrods... need to do a video on that!!
Hi Mike. I heard recently you can put a tight fitting sleeve over the fly wheel so you don’t have to replace it. Especially if the rest of it is in good shape. Thanks for the engine rebuild tips! g
Ok, you guys sound like you can answer this question. With flywheel that can only go on one way. Why is it that the cam gear can be bolted up three ways, one right and two wrong? Why do they do that? Great video guys.
I'm not sure but probably because it's easier drill the holes in the can symmetrical and as long as you can follow those ways we do it it won't be a problem
Just remember "by feel" its alot harder to tell that your tolerances are too big, you wont feel it bind in that situation, and without measuring you wont know that you may need to run a thicker viscosity oil and cause extra wear or damage
Mike I have several comments= Since you have the full flow cover on the pump , Lick your thumb and cover the oil pick up pipe and then blow into the brass fitting on the pump cover, this will tell you if you got seal???end of this conversation...... There is so many videos about ring gap??Within 2 - 3 thousand miles they will open up a lot once they get burned in. but if you are going to run the dog shit out of it in the first 10 miles it would be a good Ideal....Even on the cheap EMPI 69 mm forged crank I got from Carcraft it was at upper limits 2.1654 EXACTLY..... You got a better crank.... Now VW Darrin did a video on matching your exhaust. If you have a 1 3/8 port on the head it dont do no good to put a 1 1/4 J pipe and Merger pipes on it. and if you need a intake manifold heat tube weld it at the 3-4 side at the 4 into 1 collector , that way it will suck it from the 1-2 side. I know you dont want to hear this - you need a trans like your other bus gots... Like I said on Rambus 60 in 3rd NO - GO-OD Thanks for the Video MIKE......
yea some of those new parts like the empi cranks can be marginal was that one 4340 chromoly. or the lower grade. or just steel or cast. I wont run the cast ones. good idea on the oil pump I am pretty sure chris does that. Bores were good. Port matching we will do some of that but it depends on what exhaust we are running may put the merged one I have on that has near the port size at least for bench run.
a lot of good info have torn an engine down and found the tin on top if you can believe that i guess tou can see all kinds of boo boos when you see other peoples work
to meet the new cam angles you need to do a test on the pushrods. to make sure the angles are good. If there is too much or too little pushrod angle for the cam you need to cut new pushrod lengths to meet the new camshaft angles.
I don't know why someone doesn't come up with hydraulic lifters for VW motors. It would seem to eliminate so many of the potential problems and simplify the maintenance. There must be a way.
they have them but you gotta get the lifter bores redone. machine them. Guys say it looses a lot of HP when you do it though. IDK why but it is what it is.
@@Mikefngarage IDK why that would be the case or every car manufacturer would stop using them. It would sure make life easier to not have to adjust them so often.
My 1978 2000cc pancake fuel injection bus engine had Hydraulic lifters...upon removing rocker shaft for yearly push rod 'O' replacement... the rocker shaft assy rocker valve stem lash had to be adjusted back into the assy. Guess it was a spec that made sure push rods mid seated the plunger in the lifters. Chevy engines advised this while goofy ford's had to change out push rod length...
I don't know about being bulletproof..it might shoot parts out like bullets..I think you need more aircraft sealer..like on the piston rings and the main bearings so the oil won't leak buy..make sure you run it at 9000 rpm to break the cam in..valve grinding compound on the cam lobes..
Go by feel? Sorry man, you lost me there. I have to disagree with quite a few things (just my opinion and I don't mean to say your way wont work), but please encourage people to at least use plasti-gauges to find tolerances. BTW, weld a socket to the flat head to not launch that pressure relief valve from launching into your face or across the shop (it's even more fun when you are under it :) )
this is for the diy guy at home they will not have all the tools to do what you say. The plastigage would not have caught the rod tang that is not machined correctly. Well when it is in the van running and I am climbing a hill and it WORKS. Do you think I am really going to care.
@@Mikefngarage Not sure how to take that, and as I said it was my opinion. If things are not machined correctly, and after looking at the first video that is very clear, why not ask people to measure? I totally understand that aftermarket parts don't fricken line up anymore, but saying if it spins freely all is good is just some constructive criticism.
@@timpindell8178 those roda are always like that though and that is how you deal with it. once you sand the tang area they are fine. This is vw in this day and age which is different than before
Versachem Mega black is much better than permatex silicone. Been using no2 for years. Better than that I usually use Yamabond or hondabond. Much better they were out at the suppliers so I had to go back to the old stuff.
@ 52:22 check out that nasty casting flash inside the intake ports. LOL damn. Signs of mass produced garbage. And I’m not impressed either with an engine builder who would be ok with installing that crap without at minimum touching up those ports . Details folks, engine building is ALL about the small things. He also didn’t check or even mention when you buy heads even high dollar ones you always check the runout on the valve seats . I’ve seen $2000 heads be out of round at the seats. This engine is far from “bullet proof”
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
your comments are greaty appreciated and like of dislike the ones you agree with.
You must know there is more than one way to build an engine :) I think you have an audience, and there is nothing from my side wishing you anything but the best to keep the VW scene alive
I'm just trying to let everyone know that there are far better places to purchase QUALITY measuring tools .
I'm watching these for the second time and will need to watch it all again once I get to actually do the build
Born in the late 50's, I grew up rescueing neglected VW fastbacks with my dad in the late 60's and early 70's. Did my first full VW overhaul in auto mechanics class in 1973 for a local elderly couples VW Bug for the actual cost of the parts. We bought the rebuild parts kit with new jugs and pistons, and a felpro rebuild gasket set from JC Whitney. We also bought parts at that time from Warshowskis if you remember them. My next rebuild was for my Bradley GT kit car that I had purchased from a father/son team that had built it. This was in 1985 after I returned from living for five years in South Korea. The oily old doner 1600cc engine that came with their floor pan etc was pretty worn out and sadly not maintained properly. I did a full rebuild and upgrade to 1835cc's (new jugs and pistons designed for my block and heads). Ported and polished the intakes and exhause as much as possible and left much of the rest of the engine stock. Better push rod tubes and a few other good to do upgrades, and would up with a little rocket ship with the light weight fiberglass body of the Bradley GT. Wish I still had it. I have rebuilt many other engines mostly small block chevy and am doing a marine version 350 for my Bayliner currently.
I have to say that I have enjoyed the VW engine rebuilds more than anything else. Something very satisfying about bringing these back to life and improving them as well.
Thanks for this great content and giving us the benifit of all your years of experience with VW engines. It is invaluable information... Many thanks.... Joe
I know you will be using an aux oil cooler but if you use that oil pressure booster kit the stock cooler will be bypassed almost all the time. The stepped piston should only be used on single relief cases. Use the stock pistons and springs for more efficient oil control.
interesting
thanks I talked to chris and he was going to remove that piston not even knowing about this comment. Good call on that. We just didnt get that in this video.
that piston is only for dual or single relief with stock oil cooler. Full flow you can remove it. we will probably keep it infor break in 30 minute run then remove it when we put it in the car. better oil pressure plus we will have bypass hose.
@@Mikefngarage The stepped piston was for single relief type 3 engines in hot climates with upright cooler. The extra groove allows oil to flow to the cooler at all times regardless of piston position (oil temp).
The chrome springs in the aftermarket kit are what provides the perceived increased pressure by keeping the pistons closed until pressures above 55 are reached. The cooler is bypassed at 45psi.
I have found no evidence that the stepped piston was used in any dual relief cases as the oil control valve is what VW came up with to keep pressure up with hot oil.
Here is the workshop manual reference
www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1778557.jpg
yea kind of an aftermarket upgrade over the original to use them. guys use them on performance engines wtihout aftermarket full flow system or cooler.
Pro tip: @ timestamp approx 11:00 minutes it shows installing the distributor drive shaft. If you happen to drop it down on the wrong gear and it doesn't index up as shown, you may have a bit of trouble pulling it back out to correct it. Tip: Carefully use a 5/16 start tap and make a couple of threads. No need to make more than 1 -3 threads then screw in a long 5/16 bolt. Use the bolt to pull out the drive. Once removed, remove the bolt then thoroughly blow out any chips left in the spring hole. You can also use the bolt to stab it back in. From experience.
If your flywheel oil seal land has a bad groove then fit a sleeve to the surface. I don't know what they are called in the US but in the UK they are branded Speedy Sleeve. The come in just about every size you could imagine.
yea some guys do that but the new flywheels are pretty cheap. plus gives you the excuse to 8 dowel.
@@Mikefngarage Good point :-)
The best pushrod tubes are stock. The are always pushing. All the others have the o rings stick and they no longer expand and contract and will eventually leak. If your the guy that gets between 500 and 10,000 miles between builds , they work great.
Wow, it would have been great to have RUclips back in the 60's when I started building Engines and Transaxles... All of my training was through VOA and we only used Metrics for inplay. And of course we only used original parts, until Empi came into the picture and Joe Vittone made Empi a world wide name. I worked for Joe a couple of times, and the last time was when he hired me back to end up taking over as his Service Manager at Econo Auto Center, in Riverside, Calif.
14:14 He's describing that the wrist pin clips have a flat side and a radiused side. The flat side goes to the outside of the piston (the radiused side goes toward the wrist pin). Very good video.
yes that is exactly what we do. Locks it in.
Hay mike will the chrome molly rods cut with a pipe cutter thanks buddy
Do you just "eyeball" the rockers to be level at midpoint?
Good for Turbo motor. Pauter Machining did alot of my work but it was on type 4 stroker with Scat 82mm Chromemolly crank Pautar Machine Rods 103mm which turned out to be 2798cc for a 914
Pautar Machine makes great Roller Rockers with solid shaft
Great to watch, brings back so many memories when I did this for 30 years at Speedcraft Volkswagen in Rhode Island. rebuilt so many of these , old school though, been away from the aircooled for 15 years and now back, what price differences there is now. keep up the excellent videos!
Been through the same. also parts differences. more expensive and different manufacturers. Lots of these young guys hit me up for saying stuff inaccurately but I check their youtube channel and there is none. and nobody else to teach. so just do my best and keep on going.
the tubing cutters you have i have the same kind, the little one is basically for copper tubing and the big one is for brake lines or steel lines. just a little info.
yea true the small one wears your finger out. But the big one blade goes south may put a higher grade bit on it.
Go to a lot of VW Motors one thing was shut down play is use an old nut to take down flywheel actor and play is in specs install your oil seal and o-ring a little oil on the seal and o-ring use Loctite on a new flywheel Bolt 8 Penny the flywheel and lightened flywheel is a excellent thing to do that way you don't beat out the rear main bearing and torque flywheel to specs. Do not use the impact gun when torquing new flywheel Bolt
good info
I have not done one off these Engines, since High School. Thanks for showing such fine detail. Motor is and electric driven. Like your starter.
yea like enginebike ha ha slang but it has changed to different parts than the old days.
Do you check pushrod length for "each" valve,or just check one?
0 lash on the lifters. Good advice. Like an old Harley the lash will increase with temperature caus the jug will grow more than the pushrod.
with the chromoly you dont need much lash and if you have any they are so noisy sounds like an old tin lizzy.
@@Mikefngarage However though. Assembled valve height changes as they seat and wear in. I would set them a little loose at first and let them burn in for awhile. At least on the exhaust valves. And then reset them for the noise factor. Also in the old days before the advent of elephant feet. The rocker arms were set up on the shaft with a little offset to the valve stem to spin the valve a little as they lifted. I don't know if it matters anymore about spinning the valves off there seats or not. I'm old school and worked for VW in the early 70s.
Thanks for the awesome tip on the type 3 cooling tin’s
I know this is an older video but is it actually nessary to take the pistons all the way out of the cylinder to install and clean?
sometimes there is metal shavings that were not cleaned from the factory so I always take them apart and clean them at least blow them off.
Awesome video Mike! Keep them coming my friend! This is a big help for us guys just starting out. Thanks man!
thanks ct I need stop by and catch up ahhhhh. busy.
Good explanation on how to deal with all the aftermarket stroker stuff! Especially on the rocker arm geometry.
thanks for that. the rods need a little tap and that spot always needs a little sand and buff. Runs super strong.
8mm vs 10mm cylinder/head studs? Any rationale in choosing the correct ones?
Did you match the piston cylinders to the heads? Thought they had to fit (with valve lube) so they fit properly. I’ve seen other guys do it.
you mention SDP several times as the "Sticky Stuff" What product are you referring to? thanks,
at this point im afraid of putting a 2 liter in my 64 bus because of heat/reliability/constant tweaking intervals increased Do 2 litres last just as long as a 1600 stock motor?
I think this is still pretty much near the stock motor. or you can do a 74 mm which is good too and easier. if you have a good case. we went 78 because of aluminum.
A lot of good info Mike I never did anything but 1600 stock dual port rebuilds; you pointed out a number of little checks one would only kmow with a lot of experience thanks for sharing..
lots came from chris too. he has built more motors than me and with the most recent parts. I would not have known about that oil pump issue. he had a few cars with that same issue.
Haven't built an engine myself yet. But, whats with all the secrecy about how much to torque and set rings etc.?
Because aftermarket parts have different spec as he mentioned. Quoting the recommended tolerances( gaps or torque numbers) for this particular combo of parts will have every kiddie out there doing the same on his stock 1600 with a totally different combo of parts.
My pushrods got real clacky when the rockers came loose. Till the rocker blew up.
Thanks for the tip on the Cool Tins, I'll invest in some for my upcoming build!
What is the brand of the brown goo your using as sealer?
permatex number 2 but if you can the better stuff is yamabond. for motorcycles.
@@Mikefngarage great thanks, did i see you used silicon for the barrel to case?
Do you still need the very bottom stock tins if you use the cool tins? Thanks
no they wont fit. but usually when you do a modified engine, you will be using a merged exhaust system so the heater boxes and lower tins wont fit anyway. this is one of the reasons for using the type 3 or cool tin. without the lower tins the stock deflectors will not work properly. and that is all of them. with some of the exhaust they will fit so I use them as well but with the merged I dont.
Piston arrow to flywheel! Pistons clips are like washers the sharp edge should cut into the piston not the wrist pin . Performance is in the details.
yes sir that is exactly how we did it
Black cooling tins only $14.90, great tip Thanks !
yea dont buy the chrome ones. they suck.
Great info as always Mike!! Love seeing all these new parts go together. There are some cool tricks I've learned with pushrods... need to do a video on that!!
😀
Great video! Did you do one for the crank assembly on this engine? Perhaps I missed it. I will use this video as a reference! Thanks Bro!
Hi Mike. I heard recently you can put a tight fitting sleeve over the fly wheel so you don’t have to replace it. Especially if the rest of it is in good shape. Thanks for the engine rebuild tips! g
yea that does work but the new ones are pretty cheap. and may be less expensive than a sleeve. But that is a great option.
What size is the motor? Thanks😊Harry.
2007cc
You answered my question on the show 👍
Ok, you guys sound like you can answer this question. With flywheel that can only go on one way. Why is it that the cam gear can be bolted up three ways, one right and two wrong? Why do they do that? Great video guys.
I'm not sure but probably because it's easier drill the holes in the can symmetrical and as long as you can follow those ways we do it it won't be a problem
I saw no cylinder to case seals. ??? you using only silicone ??
yea that is how it is done from most people I have seen as well. there are no paper gaskets like in the early engines.
Where did you get your case?
your running the cool tins so..........does this make the stock type 1 thermostat non usable?
we dont use the therms in so cal no need you guys back east or in other countries may not need them heat here too hot.
Hi,AutoLinea made in Brazil Block?
yes
The sealer to use is gaskasench with girl on the can
that or no 2 permatex are almost the same I would bet they are the same. I like Yamabond better. look into it it is better.
Really nice work guys! Could you say where to get one of those two-in-one screwdriver-inside-a-wrench he’s using. Highly appreciated!
im not really sure where he got that probably an old dealer tool.
Just remember "by feel" its alot harder to tell that your tolerances are too big, you wont feel it bind in that situation, and without measuring you wont know that you may need to run a thicker viscosity oil and cause extra wear or damage
How can i contact you....?
Mike I have several comments= Since you have the full flow cover on the pump , Lick your thumb and cover the oil pick up pipe and then blow into the brass fitting on the pump cover, this will tell you if you got seal???end of this conversation...... There is so many videos about ring gap??Within 2 - 3 thousand miles they will open up a lot once they get burned in. but if you are going to run the dog shit out of it in the first 10 miles it would be a good Ideal....Even on the cheap EMPI 69 mm forged crank I got from Carcraft it was at upper limits 2.1654 EXACTLY..... You got a better crank.... Now VW Darrin did a video on matching your exhaust. If you have a 1 3/8 port on the head it dont do no good to put a 1 1/4 J pipe and Merger pipes on it. and if you need a intake manifold heat tube weld it at the 3-4 side at the 4 into 1 collector , that way it will suck it from the 1-2 side. I know you dont want to hear this - you need a trans like your other bus gots... Like I said on Rambus 60 in 3rd NO - GO-OD Thanks for the Video MIKE......
yea some of those new parts like the empi cranks can be marginal was that one 4340 chromoly. or the lower grade. or just steel or cast. I wont run the cast ones. good idea on the oil pump I am pretty sure chris does that. Bores were good. Port matching we will do some of that but it depends on what exhaust we are running may put the merged one I have on that has near the port size at least for bench run.
@@Mikefngarage 4140 forged
no that is the lower grade 4340 is the better one.
Somebody should make a relief valve cap with an allen drive.
Don’t forget the thermostat
The flywheel is the back of the engine! Don’t confuse people.
Extremely informative lads.
😀
Thanks for doing the video// 👏👏👏👏👏👏
would of got the allen wrench oil spring covers--much cleaner!
a lot of good info have torn an engine down and found the tin on top if you can believe that i guess tou can see all kinds of boo boos when you see other peoples work
If you're an engine builder use harbor freight measuring devices . (???)
I'm just trying to get the message across that there are far better places to aquire measuring tools.
Amazing work
Thanks a lot 😊
Thanks for the great content!!!Cheers!🍻
thanks to you as well. Keep coming around.
You lost me only once, when you said, "modify the length of your push rods"
to meet the new cam angles you need to do a test on the pushrods. to make sure the angles are good. If there is too much or too little pushrod angle for the cam you need to cut new pushrod lengths to meet the new camshaft angles.
@@Mikefngarage I commented before I watched you use a torch to expand the lifter tube, then you fit the ends in.... informative.
I don't know why someone doesn't come up with hydraulic lifters for VW motors. It would seem to eliminate so many of the potential problems and simplify the maintenance. There must be a way.
they have them but you gotta get the lifter bores redone. machine them. Guys say it looses a lot of HP when you do it though. IDK why but it is what it is.
@@Mikefngarage IDK why that would be the case or every car manufacturer would stop using them. It would sure make life easier to not have to adjust them so often.
My 1978 2000cc pancake fuel injection bus engine had Hydraulic lifters...upon removing rocker shaft for yearly push rod 'O' replacement... the rocker shaft assy rocker valve stem lash had to be adjusted back into the assy. Guess it was a spec that made sure push rods mid seated the plunger in the lifters.
Chevy engines advised this while goofy ford's had to change out push rod length...
I don't know about being bulletproof..it might shoot parts out like bullets..I think you need more aircraft sealer..like on the piston rings and the main bearings so the oil won't leak buy..make sure you run it at 9000 rpm to break the cam in..valve grinding compound on the cam lobes..
eeeeeeeek your killing me. wont happen like that at all. wave when im driving by and it holds together. ha ha.
Will do
If you want to do it right use a lathe
😂😂😂😂😂
Why not measure first smh.
Go by feel? Sorry man, you lost me there. I have to disagree with quite a few things (just my opinion and I don't mean to say your way wont work), but please encourage people to at least use plasti-gauges to find tolerances. BTW, weld a socket to the flat head to not launch that pressure relief valve from launching into your face or across the shop (it's even more fun when you are under it :) )
this is for the diy guy at home they will not have all the tools to do what you say. The plastigage would not have caught the rod tang that is not machined correctly. Well when it is in the van running and I am climbing a hill and it WORKS. Do you think I am really going to care.
@@Mikefngarage Not sure how to take that, and as I said it was my opinion. If things are not machined correctly, and after looking at the first video that is very clear, why not ask people to measure? I totally understand that aftermarket parts don't fricken line up anymore, but saying if it spins freely all is good is just some constructive criticism.
@@timpindell8178 those roda are always like that though and that is how you deal with it. once you sand the tang area they are fine. This is vw in this day and age which is different than before
Not sure I trust a mechanic that can’t remember permatex
Versachem Mega black is much better than permatex silicone. Been using no2 for years. Better than that I usually use Yamabond or hondabond. Much better they were out at the suppliers so I had to go back to the old stuff.
Not trying to be mean, but please stop stuttering and learn the names of the parts and think about what you're going to say.
sorry it is a little harder than it seems.
The commentator is babbling, to many nonsense words, no strategy. Needs to redo and get a good editor.
What about the cool tins stop smoking dope
dude they work and absolutely necessary on merged exhaust.
You guys need to quit smoking dope when building engines one mistake after another
see you at the track. I am driving this one across the country with no worries. runs great.
u talk way too much
@ 52:22 check out that nasty casting flash inside the intake ports. LOL damn. Signs of mass produced garbage. And I’m not impressed either with an engine builder who would be ok with installing that crap without at minimum touching up those ports . Details folks, engine building is ALL about the small things. He also didn’t check or even mention when you buy heads even high dollar ones you always check the runout on the valve seats . I’ve seen $2000 heads be out of round at the seats. This engine is far from “bullet proof”