Greetings from Monterrey, Mx. Love your channel, I had over the years 4 beetles in the family (all Mexican Assembled or Made), a white '65, a Gulf Blue '68 and a Baby Blue '74 that belonged to my father, the last one was my first car and later on I bought a '96 Fuel Injected one. Now I don't have any and I missed them deeply. With today's prices it`s even more difficult to have one, but still looking to have one as soon as possible, I simply love the VW Bug. 🏁
Thank you for the very helpful videos. I have one question: When you checked the gap on these rings, they were where you'd like them. What do you do if they are not?
Thanks for the video. I also watch vw Darrin. He says to wash those cylinders really good alot of microscopic metal from finish hone is in the cross hatch. I was sceptical but i washed mine and alot came out. Also the AA jugs sometimes are not honed with enough clearance. They send em to ya ready to install i bet alot folks just put em in.
HI Slade, thank you for the informative videos! They're great. I am just learning and had a question about the gap in the rings. If the gap had been too small or large are you just bending them to the correct clearance? Apologies again this is all new to me. Thank you for sharing.
Just found your channel. So far is a great source of information. I know this series being a year ago but I believe it would be a good idea to rectify the cylinders agains the heads and the engine block before instalation. Excuse my english, please.
Enjoyed the video. I know how to do it although I never have built the bottom end of an engine. Regardless of whether I know how, I still learn something from your videos. Thanks brother!
Hi Slade, I just completed my top end rebuild with 88mm pistons and have a question, what size should I change the main jet to, in a standard 34 P3 carb, or do I need to change it at all? Thank you
I installed new Mahle pistons and the breather hose seems to be smoking (white smoke) a fair bit even after 100km of running. Is this normal ? Or should I recheck the piston ring installation?
Hi my name is Mike and I am in New Zealand. Just want to say I am so happy I have found your Chanel, I am absolutely loving it. I have a 1970 beetle with a 1500 single port motor which I am doing up. The last time I did a beetle up was when I was 21, I am now 56. You explain things so well and have a fantastic presence on camera. Well done, keep it going. Yesterday I actually did a full tear down of the motor on my new stand. Loved it. Also I am thinking about turning my motor into a twin port 1600 but staying with a single carb. What you think? Thanks
It's been quite some time since I rebuilt a VW motor but I thought I recall a thin paper gasket between the block and jug and naturally a copper spacer between jug and head? Enjoy your video's!
Thank you, yes they used to use paper gaskets in some people still do. The last two and engines I have done, i used high heat copper silicon. But only a tiny drop.
What is the purpose of gaping the piston rings? In the case of spark plugs, you gap it and if the gap is incorrect you can adjust the gap of the plug. How do you adjust the gap on a piston ring?
You need the right gap for sealing the chamber, also the gap is needed to allow for expansion as the metals heat up. Keep in mind over time as the rings wear, the gap will actually get bigger.
excellent work, I have a question about assembling pistons orientations, this is my doubt since a long time ago, the cylinders 1 and 2 the arrow are pointed to the flywheel, but the arrow of cylinders 3 and 4 I think them must be mounted pointed to the front of engine, think that, the wrist pin on pistons is a little moved out the center of piston, now about spark plugs on heads, the heads are in oposite position each other, the spark plugs are angled, think as a snoocker ball when you want to hit the ball in angle way, on cylinders 1 and 2 the sparks will burn the gas and will hit the top of pistons in angle way to press the pistons in a streightline paralell inside the cylinders that avoid torcions of pistons can cause scratch on cylinders wall, on cylinder 3 and 4 must follow this rule to achieve this behavior of cylinders 1 and 2. thanks in advance
What size clamp did you use to compress the cylinder rings to fit into the jug? Love your videos I'm doing a top end engine rebuild and your videos are essential
in boxer engine the pistons are in oposite positions so the weigth will be canceled when spin, the same weigth that coming will return plus de oposit pistons weigth , the needs of balance are for crankshaft and flywheel. inline engines need all pistons in same weigth because them will be part of the same track that have a couterweigth on a crackshaft.
Nice video Slade. BTW, I was told that the sharp side of the snap-ring goes on the outside of the piston and the rounded side goes towards the inside of the piston. That way it aids in locking in the snap-ring. My 2 cents for what it’s worth 🤪
Funny you brought that up, and I’m glad you did. I was putting an original German set together last night. And I went in from the bottom, I agree. It went very smooth.
Very informative video. You didn't show it but hopefully you scrubbed the cylinders to remove the honing oil and grit. This is by far the worst part of the job as it takes many times to fully clean them. I use a round toilet brush with an abrasive cleaner (Comet or Barkeepers Friend). If you don't clean them it will cause premature piston ring wear.
I actually cleaned them up very well. Sometimes I don’t show certain things and probably should bring them up. I get concerned about boring people with certain parts. Thank you so much for being here.
uhm at the risk of sounding stupid. if the manufacturer took the time to install all the rings in the pistons then install the pistons in the jugs. i would think they are already gapped and spaced. lower the piston in the jug install wrist pins and done
Can't explain how usefull these videos are
Thanks very much. I truly appreciate that.
Hey Slade, been out of the country for the last 10 days. Good to be back so I can watch your videos again.
Thank you! Glad you made it back safely!
When I did mine, it took a long time to research all this information. Here it is in one place explained simply. Excellent job!!
Thank you my friend, I truly appreciate that very much.
Great video only question I have is Video is very shaky maybe hard mount the camera. but very good Video thank you.
I must say, you are the best !
Im learning a lot from you! please keep it going !
Thanks alot !!!
Thanks!
Thank you Jane!
Thanks Slade very well explained ----- The Hammer below had a GOOD point too on the snap rings -- Enjoyed watching -Rodney
Thank you so much Rodney I hope you have been doing well my friend.
Greetings from Monterrey, Mx. Love your channel, I had over the years 4 beetles in the family (all Mexican Assembled or Made), a white '65, a Gulf Blue '68 and a Baby Blue '74 that belonged to my father, the last one was my first car and later on I bought a '96 Fuel Injected one. Now I don't have any and I missed them deeply. With today's prices it`s even more difficult to have one, but still looking to have one as soon as possible, I simply love the VW Bug. 🏁
Great video Slade thanks see ya on the next one. Have a great weakend.
Thank you so much my friend! I hope you have had a wonderful weekend.
I'll be goofing with mine this weekend. Great video as always!
Thank you sir I truly appreciate that.
nice explained and to the details.
nice work my friend, love these video's.
Thank you so much my friend! And I also enjoy your videos very much
Thank you for the very helpful videos. I have one question: When you checked the gap on these rings, they were where you'd like them. What do you do if they are not?
LOVE THE BUG!!!!! THANK'S
Thank you Matthew!
Thanks for the video. I also watch vw Darrin. He says to wash those cylinders really good alot of microscopic metal from finish hone is in the cross hatch. I was sceptical but i washed mine and alot came out. Also the AA jugs sometimes are not honed with enough clearance. They send em to ya ready to install i bet alot folks just put em in.
HI Slade, thank you for the informative videos! They're great. I am just learning and had a question about the gap in the rings. If the gap had been too small or large are you just bending them to the correct clearance? Apologies again this is all new to me. Thank you for sharing.
Just found your channel. So far is a great source of information.
I know this series being a year ago but I believe it would be a good idea to rectify the cylinders agains the heads and the engine block before instalation.
Excuse my english, please.
Great video, Slade!
Thank you my friend! I will see you soon, hopefully next week I will start the live chat back up it’s a little hectic right now
Great video Mr Slade. Those parts look good !
Thank you so much my friend!
Thank you 🙏
Enjoyed the video. I know how to do it although I never have built the bottom end of an engine. Regardless of whether I know how, I still learn something from your videos. Thanks brother!
Thank you brother, thanks for all you do I truly appreciate it.
Thanks Tony
Thank you Greg! For always being here.
nice job.
Thank you Jim I hope you’ve had a great weekend.
Very good video!!!
Thank you so much brother, I truly appreciate that. I should be starting the live chat up next weekend again.
What company has the most affordable engine parts. I’m working on my first engine. Thanks for what you do Slade
Thanks for good info
And thank you very much for taking the time to leave a comment.
I have not had a ring I needed to file, have you experienced VW rings that needed to be filed for clearance when pistons and cylinders were both new?
Im in the process of rebuilding a type 4 2l vw engine. I have some new kb pistons, but they dont have any arrows on them
When re-ringing an engine, do you have to hone the cylinders again?
If you are using the old cylinders, I would definitely do that.
Hi Slade, I just completed my top end rebuild with 88mm pistons and have a question, what size should I change the main jet to, in a standard 34 P3 carb, or do I need to change it at all? Thank you
I installed new Mahle pistons and the breather hose seems to be smoking (white smoke) a fair bit even after 100km of running. Is this normal ? Or should I recheck the piston ring installation?
I would first check the orientation of the piston rings. Of course it’s just my opinion. To make sure they are clocked properly.
Hi my name is Mike and I am in New Zealand. Just want to say I am so happy I have found your Chanel, I am absolutely loving it. I have a 1970 beetle with a 1500 single port motor which I am doing up. The last time I did a beetle up was when I was 21, I am now 56. You explain things so well and have a fantastic presence on camera. Well done, keep it going. Yesterday I actually did a full tear down of the motor on my new stand. Loved it. Also I am thinking about turning my motor into a twin port 1600 but staying with a single carb. What you think? Thanks
It's been quite some time since I rebuilt a VW motor but I thought I recall a thin paper gasket between the block and jug and naturally a copper spacer between jug and head? Enjoy your video's!
Thank you, yes they used to use paper gaskets in some people still do. The last two and engines I have done, i used high heat copper silicon. But only a tiny drop.
What is the purpose of gaping the piston rings? In the case of spark plugs, you gap it and if the gap is incorrect you can adjust the gap of the plug. How do you adjust the gap on a piston ring?
You can use a file, to adjust ring gap. Look it up on youtube.
You need the right gap for sealing the chamber, also the gap is needed to allow for expansion as the metals heat up. Keep in mind over time as the rings wear, the gap will actually get bigger.
excellent work, I have a question about assembling pistons orientations, this is my doubt since a long time ago, the cylinders 1 and 2 the arrow are pointed to the flywheel, but the arrow of cylinders 3 and 4 I think them must be mounted pointed to the front of engine, think that, the wrist pin on pistons is a little moved out the center of piston, now about spark plugs on heads, the heads are in oposite position each other, the spark plugs are angled, think as a snoocker ball when you want to hit the ball in angle way, on cylinders 1 and 2 the sparks will burn the gas and will hit the top of pistons in angle way to press the pistons in a streightline paralell inside the cylinders that avoid torcions of pistons can cause scratch on cylinders wall, on cylinder 3 and 4 must follow this rule to achieve this behavior of cylinders 1 and 2. thanks in advance
What size clamp did you use to compress the cylinder rings to fit into the jug? Love your videos I'm doing a top end engine rebuild and your videos are essential
Thanks very much I appreciate the kind comment. The ring compressor I used said, 83MM - 87MM.
I'm new building an engine for my 72 really help need more info
Are you ok with the factory hone on new cylinders? I've seen where some VW engine builders believe it's necessary.
awesome. I'm doing this exact job this weekend. also with AA cylinders and pistons
Outstanding Steve, thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
I have always been told they should be spaced like a Mercedes badge 12 -4-8 as if gap is too close to each other the air can get past easily
Should new pistons be weighed to check for balance?
I don’t believe it would hurt to do that. With this stock engine I really didn’t go that route.
in boxer engine the pistons are in oposite positions so the weigth will be canceled when spin, the same weigth that coming will return plus de oposit pistons weigth , the needs of balance are for crankshaft and flywheel. inline engines need all pistons in same weigth because them will be part of the same track that have a couterweigth on a crackshaft.
Nice video Slade. BTW, I was told that the sharp side of the snap-ring goes on the outside of the piston and the rounded side goes towards the inside of the piston. That way it aids in locking in the snap-ring.
My 2 cents for what it’s worth 🤪
Thank you Mike, I so appreciate when you leave tips and advice. It really helps the whole community! I hope you’re well my friend
thanks bro
Thank you Brian!
I do find jt easier when installing the piston into the cylinder to do it from the bottom since normally there is a leading edge there for that
Funny you brought that up, and I’m glad you did. I was putting an original German set together last night. And I went in from the bottom, I agree. It went very smooth.
Very informative video. You didn't show it but hopefully you scrubbed the cylinders to remove the honing oil and grit. This is by far the worst part of the job as it takes many times to fully clean them. I use a round toilet brush with an abrasive cleaner (Comet or Barkeepers Friend). If you don't clean them it will cause premature piston ring wear.
I actually cleaned them up very well. Sometimes I don’t show certain things and probably should bring them up.
I get concerned about boring people with certain parts. Thank you so much for being here.
I have 85.45
And they are set at .014
So if the piston and the cylinder is bought as a set, then why check the ring Gap?
Can I get the china link you bought it from
Those came from Cip1
uhm at the risk of sounding stupid. if the manufacturer took the time to install all the rings in the pistons then install the pistons in the jugs. i would think they are already gapped and spaced. lower the piston in the jug install wrist pins and done
👍
Thanks my friend ✌🏻
I am done watching not happy with ring remove and install ring tool are cheep
This video went to fast.
I try to keep them as short as possible so people don’t get bored. Thank you for being here.
@@SladesVWBeetle If anyone gets bored with your videos, something is wrong with them not you.