How we rebuilt our VW Beetle engine | Redline Rebuilds Explained
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Time to dim the lights and slow things down with yet another Redline Rebuild Explained! Watch and listen as we break down our 1973 Volkswagen Beetle engine rebuild. Hagerty’s Davin Reckow and Ben Woodworth take you through the ins and outs of the project and discuss issues that came up, lessons learned, and general tech talk about how to rebuild a classic air-cooled VW engine.
Watch the original rebuild video here: • Volkswagen Beetle Air-...
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I wouldn't mind seeing the rebuild of any of these in regular time, I also like to hear the tech speaking about what he is doing. Might be alot to ask for but I like it.
Try Mustie1 on YT he does it a lot.
I love it!
My older brother had a 1969 beetle in Fiji Islands. It was my first drive at home at age of 8 but I never was a car enthusiast. After watching this video and now at the age of 66 I feel like buying a well done up one and enjoy it. Love your work guys. Fantastic.
german here. I allways listen to the storys of guys putting porsche engines in these cars. really amazing to watch it happen and not just talking
Brings back so many memories from 1971 when I rebuilt my first VW motor, a 1961 1200cc into my 1959. Baja Bug body kit. Also my first paint job, Candy Apple Tangerine
When I was 18 I was working in a VW garage, me, another guy and the boss.
The boss went on vacation for a week. That week, between the 2 of us we rebuilt 12 VW engines.
Watching you working on this engine brought back so good memories, thanks!
That bug engine had really lived a full life. Big bore kit, studs, etc. The tales it could tell. And now the new engine will have its own tales to make. Great video explaining the ins and outs of rebuilding these iconic engines. I really appreciate the explanations when things didn't go as planned, like the cooling shroud left off. Its attention to detail that separates the pros from the rest!
I love watching Davids video's omg he is freaking awsome, So when I was 15 I sold my 3 Wheeler(185S) ...My 250 Eciter Yamaha street bike... saved my money to build me a 350 SB. I did all that and I came up with 3000.00, this was 1996 Guys!!! Purchased a used 1974 350-4 bolt main engine from my uncle Mark...well used but a good engine . At 15 I built it!!! My mom was so proud...she gave me the long time family car now retired 1968 Chevelle 2-door SS and said... "son theres you a car to put that beautiful engine in"...God love my MOM.
So that was my first experience of engine building, since then........I NEVER STOPPED.
David you are simply a bad ass at it, I love the way you explain it and I love the way you build them!!!
Shayne Dumas
Little Rock, Arkansas
Shayne - Thank you for watching!
I really enjoyed this format. can't believe I just happily sat through 44min without any other distractions. Just shows how good the content was. Oh, and I love this engine, Nice work, makes me want to build one too. Cheers.
The oil pump comes out much easier if you loosen the case half bolts first. A magnesium case will burn even if it's a big chunk. Been there, done that. Porsche heads are completely different than those shown. there are many aftermarket VW heads available. There are bumps on the rod beams that must be positioned so they are up when the rods are facing their respective cylinders. Make sure the oil holes are fully exposed to the grooves in the backs of the main bearings. EMPI cases have had problems with the oil holes lining up. You can use a burr on a Dremel tool to open either the case hole or groove the back of the main bearing or both. On higher lift cams you should take a cut off wheel on a Dremel and cut a small groove between the 2 grooves on the lifters. This makes sure of a constant oil supply to the top end as with a higher lift cam the 2 oiling grooves aren't exposed to the oil galleys in the case as much as on a stock cam. The exhaust is Empi. You have to torque the flywheel to full spec to set the endplay. Great video !!!!
You are the only one who told the easiest way to pull out the oil oil pump thanks for sharing your knowledge
I always take all nuts and bolts loose the gently crack the case the pump will just about fall out
These kind of videos are gold, at least for me. I sit all relaxed and still learn something new as I watch the video.
Seen many engine rebuild vids, but this is the first time I seen one broken down like this. I like it. I appreciate the time taken to do so.
Watching in 2021. Love how honest this is. Great 👍 love a vw engine re build.
Thank you for your tutorial. I learned so much from this video. I'm glad to see that you refered to the manual. Now, I won't feel "mentally deficient " if I must refer to the manual throughout the process. My plan is to rebuild a 1960 one owner Karmann Ghia that has been sitting for a very long time. Best wishes for continued success in your endeavors.
You guys are young. Don’t listen to the others who tell you to pull engine the hard way. I got to be quite fast at pulling the motor, but now I paid for it with serious back surgery. Do it the smart way, like you’re doing!😊
Built a 1776 with dual Solex carbs for my 1966 in college. Great project, lots of fun.
Great post, guys! I owned 3 VW's in my youth. First, my brother and I spent $300 on a 1962 fade green Bug in 1975, then I bought for $900 in 1979 a canary yellow, fuel injected Square Back Wagon, absolutely loved it! Then, when I graduated from college, I bought a 1972 canary yellow Bug for $2000 dollars, drove it for a couple of years, and sold it for the same price. BTW A rebuild on one of those Square Back, fuel injected engines would make for an interesting job. Thanks again!
My dad did that a couple of times I remember, he actually learned his auto mechanic job during the days and had the luck to work on some rally Porsches in the late 60s. Nice work by the way!
Nice video. I rebuilt a 1964 VW engine in 1974 in my parents garage without all the cool engine stands and such that you had. Drove it out to Oklahoma in 1976 and sold it in 1978. Worst thing that I ever did, wish that I had it back. Oh well....
It would be cool to know how the car performed after. Was nice to hear it run, but since the throttle was originally restricted and you did some performance mods it would be cool to know how much difference you experienced.
GREAT VIDDY! BTW~ The VW engine is like a musical instrument, if it is dialed in and tuned right, she sings! & VWs are not air cooled, like a motorcycle, they are fan cooled, the fan is always blowing so the cylinders can stay cool even when idling at an intersection. For this reason the shrouding and engine compartment seal that it fits into are CRITICAL to engine cooling! Gaps in the tin can cause exhaust heat to flow up into the engine compartment, where the fan recirculates it over and over until it is blow-torch hot, hence the danger of super intense magnesium engine fire.
SO: If your dipstick is too hot to hold when you check your oil, check your shrouding, fan belt tension and fan for obstructions, STAT. Now I want another VW hahahah.
I think that is called 'Forced Air Cooled". Some scooter engines have this kind of cooling arrangement as opposed to motorcycles which do not have fans. Just fins.
Good Point!!
Then why do they call them "air cooled"? (of course they are)
I'm no mechanic but I really enjoyed the ins and out on what went into the rebuild, thanks you guys
Ilove the Mystery Theater 3000 vibe you have going on!!
Reminds me of my first car I bought . 59 VW for $300 . Great little car . Drove it everywhere and even to my first job. Did all my own tune ups and oil changes One cylinder swallowed a valve one day so I had to pull the motor to get it fixed so I bought a replacement motor for $50 while the original motor was being fixed Those were fun times !
How fun this one has diferent licence plates front (803 CRH)and rear (DQD 3028) Both videos are amazing, thanks for sharing!
Lifter clips, JB weld might there to stop the leaking at the cylinder base/case spigot from 94mm bore, if you heat gears they will drop on crank, aftermarket cams need cut to length heavy duty pushrods, Porsche heads will not bolt up, so the heads are modified VW or more likely aftermarket for the bigger valves, a good trick is to install the dist. drive gear and dist. when the case is still split, a little weather stripping on the cooler might be good
This is my summer vacation video with commentary
Back in the day, used to go down to the sand dunes in San Felipe, Mexico, and light a VW mag case with a blow torch, and roll it down a sand dune at night. 4th of July, American style!!
It is nice to work on something that was engineered to be worked on.
As said below heads are vw 041 castings. These where fitted to later 1600 type 1 (beetle) engines. Earlier 041 heads suffered from cracking between the valves this was caused primarily by overheating because of the smaller exhaust valve (early 041 had a 39mm inlet and 33mm exhaust valve).
Later 041 heads increased the thickness of the head casting (needing longer 19mm spark plugs) Also the valve sizes were increased (40mm inlet and 35mm exhaust).
Most of this resizing and modifying was due to emissions regulations but can lead to better performance in tuned engines.
Philip - Thank you for the knowledge. Enjoy the ride!
Pistons must face the correct way. I didn't see any mention of that. Push rod tubes must be lengthened if not new. Correct flywheel torque is extremely important. The extra four pins in the crank indicates that it had a problem with the torquing before. This is not to criticize, merely for someone needing correct info.
John Kahts, not necessarily. I did eight pins to my 1967 Karmann Ghia because I intended to run a turbo. This was back in 1978. I installed a racing clutch disc, but it came out right away, not having springs made it chatter terribly. 😬
Where in a Michigan winter did you find a clean bug?
They got it in portland, or.
Seeing this brought back memories of my Manx Dunebuggy ♡
Please do a Corvair for us fans of the can.
"People on the couches aren't doing them....they're not a bag of chips!" Hilarious and too true.
You never ever use a screwdriver in a vw case, there is a special tool that splits the case. The tolerance is like zero and a screwdriver can do much damage.
There is an excellent book for just air-cooled engines with amazing details that would help you a lot!
Great job guys!
It hurt to see screwdrivers used to pry the oil pump out and separate the case halves.
sorry Konstantinos... what is the name of this "excellent book" for the air cooled motors? I'm considering doing my first full engine rebuild this summer, and any hints would be great. thanks!
Nice! I’d love to see a type 4 rebuild. I have a 1973 VW Bus with 1.7 type 4
As a young adult, I drove a 57 VW. No fuel gauge instead, a reserve lever. No first or reverse gear and not enough knowledge to repair. I could pull the engine and replace the clutch with reinstall in 40 minutes. Practice practice and more.
Thanks for the video
It may not have been picked up in the video but did you install the fan ducting flaps thermostat. Many amateur or inexperienced builders just leave it off and jam the flap in the open position and so ensure the engine takes too long to warm up. There is also a tiny piece of the tinware that goes to seal around the bottom of the oil cooler and fan shroud often lost or thrown away. My very experienced engine builder had me rummaging through piles of engine pieces at wreckers yards to find one. He built a blueprinted engine for me that ran beautifully for many years.
GREAT breakdown! You ran into the same problems all of us VW hacks have experienced ourselves! The first time I had my 1967 engine rebuilt, the *&^%# shop left 3 unsecured jug bolts in. The second rebuild was so good I could eat a meal off of the engine since it stayed so tight! I loved my 1967 bug and knew every nook and cranny. I guess I can still say I have it from left over parts and the ring my wife wears came from the sale of my baby. BTW once you tighten the generator down that fan will rub in the shroud :)
I was into the original video but I really enjoyed this video thank you!
Again, watching this in May 2022...and I'm an old school VW nut having built dozens of VW engines. Some daily drivers, some for racing...
I get that this was your first VW engine....but watching this video made me nuts...Soooo many problems that I saw. So many things that you shoulda, woulda, coulda done better, easier....
and the one thing that I was completely flabbergasted about is that none of the rotating assembly was balanced.
That's a top priority for the aircooled VW's.
Even though the crank wasn't counterweighted, I noticed that it did have 8 dowels which is a modification over stock.
Since someone went to the trouble initially to install the 8 dowel crank, you guys shoulda went ahead and installed a nice counterweighted crank and still went ahead and balanced the whole thing.
You bought one of those fancy new Brasil aluminum cases for probably something like $1000, so why not go ahead and spend the extra $200 for a counterweighted crank and another $100 to have all of the rotating components balanced.
The engine life span will be extended immensely by doing that.
Oh well....I'll get off of my soapbox.
Hopefully if you ever do another VW engine someday, you'll do it right the next time.
I know that VW's are a bit of a strange beast in comparison to an American V8 so there is a learning curve involved.
I’m watching this because I’m getting into mine definitely not right but had it running in high school it definitely needed the jug and piston set now I’m 22 and finally ordered the parts but the bag I left on the engine that was open had degraded away so I’m blowing it apart to clean it all out hopefully it goes okay
Back in the day...there were pit crew contests in removing air cooled VW engines....the record time was like 45 seconds to remove an engine
Back in the '60s we regularly took 7 minutes . But those were non-fresh air motors. 45 seconds sounds wow. We were given 30 minutes to remove engine, so we got 20 minutes overtime for a 10 minute job. Incentive to work fast. Someone would yell out 'Top bolts', and there'd be someone there in 5 seconds.
I remember those competitions. Typically a side show at a drag race or VW swap meet.
I really like when you guys go through the vids like this. Awesome video thank you guys
love the older redline rebuild series on older vehicle keep it up guys!
I may be wrong but it didn't look as if oil slinger was installed when you were setting the crank, did you guy's check that?
At about 28:00 minutes
On the lifters you use a set of spring clips to hold them all the parts suppliers have them for a few bucks.
Would truly always like to see him do a big block Ford straight inline 6 that it's a 300ci that's bored out to 302 with old school 2 2 bbls. With headers.
35 years ago I worked at an import garage that specialized in Air-cooled VW repair. We would do the valve jobs in house. But it was more economical to replace the crankcase as a factory assembled assembly. Engine were available in every degree of completion. Back then you could buy a factory built 40HP engine for about $800. You could also buy almost any config of a crate VW AC engine from 40HP to about 200+hp twin turbo. For about $1200-1300 you could buy a really nice 100-120hp crate engine
A pleasure to watch and listen
Watch the original rebuild video here: ruclips.net/video/S3cMPJjuj2w/видео.html
Hagerty What is the name of the exhaust coating that you said is the best?
First time rebuilding a 1600 single port today and it's a nightmare lol thanks for this video. Hopefully it helps me get it back together 🤞
Last I heard the worlds record VW engine pull, run engine around pilon, re-install, back running car past pilon... was 2 minutes thirty something seconds.
And if you get crank end play too tight.... engine made it 50 feet before seizing up main. That from direct experience.
What I didn't see you do was to lap the jugs into the heads or case.
The new EMPI case didn’t have the necessary o-rings on the 6 thick studs which hold the block together. Also when splitting the cases NEVER pry the bottom of the case with screwdrivers. The block is magnesium and will start leaking. Instead you can lightly tap on the 6 big studs with a rubber mallet. My dad has built over 50 bug engines and this has always worked for him.
Just started watching a few of your tear downs and rebuilds, Love them. How about a tear down and rebuild of the Dodge slant 6? Keep up the good work.
Phill - Thank you for watching. We'll pass the idea on to our editorial team.
I really like that you guys do a multitude of different engines, rather than the same tired old thing of big blocks. Don't get me wrong, I lol I've all rebuilds, but oddball motors are fun. I'd like to see a 287 rebuild
One of the few engines that still work miraculously with a cracked head (and other parts too).
Those are stock vw 040 heads, probably with larger valves installed when the they were cot for larger pistons.
Rebuilding an AMC Jeep 4.2L would be fantastic. Good stuff!
davin...great video...your right about magnesium flakes burning, but as i remember the big-chunks EXPLODE!!!...but kutgw...[with some safety glasses and a flak-jacket]..haha but i think thats an aluminium/ magnesium alloy, and much more stabilized, but still.....
While I have no idea what you were doing, watching you made me want to do something to my own 1978 VW Cabriolet. Thank you.
Reminds me of Mystery Science Theater 3000...haha
I was going to say that lol
But where is Tom Servo ?
You beat me to it. They need to add a robot for effect.
What was the exhaust coating that you mentioned? "Starts out gold..."
Your narration was very helpful. You're a great team.
Thank you guys for keeping the Bug Alive!!
Good round table discussion about your build, though I'm surprised for all your knowledge you didn't think to use lifter retaining clips (Time: 28:30). You can purchase them from just about any online store that sells VW parts. I've even used a wire coat hanger in a pinch. Anything to exert some pressure on the walls so they don't slip when turned upside down.
Great video. Like how you explained what you were doing and why. I ask you consider a Chrysler slant 6 build in the future! Cheers.
Man thanks so much for the detailed video u guys did great! Hope to see alot more VW videos in the future. Vws are making a come back and I love it!
I love the perfect job it's awesome when you have a great experience. Many thanks
It’s a joy to watch
Great video, as always. All that's left is for you guys to rebuild an IH 345!!
This build should have used a different crank. The case getting ruined it's NOT a counterweighted crank! It was 8 dowl'ed crank, but not a counterweighted crank which is needed for RPM.
Don't forget a lightened flywheel too. Like you said. Why drill the extra holes.
Well done guys, very helpful. Thanks for sharing
According to the factory service manual (Bentley manual) It is important to use the correct thickness and correct compressibility gaskets when installing the oil pump, otherwise it won't pump at the correct pressure.. I don't remember if there was one gasket or 2 gaskets, but I think there were 2, one on each side of the aluminum housing - but different model years had different gaskets so you have to make sure you are using the correct gasket for your model year. The model years have gaskets of the same shape, but different thicknesses. I'm seeing a DC generator on your engine. I'm pretty sure 1973 models had alternators (1971 on), and that there was an appropriate stand for it.
I am strongly of the opinion that using the proper tools is not cheating it’s just plain simply doing things right! Why do we have to glamorize doing things the hard way?
Here's a challenge, see if you can lay your hands on an old aircraft engine, or a two stroke diesel! Either of those I'd love to see re-built.
this is great! Do you have a list for disassembly/assembly order of parts removal/install? It would be really helpful!
When you were removing the head bolts from the case with heat, you mentioned that only magnesium powder would burn, not big chunks. This is not true. Back in the mid-'90s, the four wheel drive club I belonged to would build bonfires on the beach. Once the fire was going good, one of our members would chuck in a magnesium VW engine case (you could get one for about $25 back then). It would take a few minutes, but the case would eventually ignite, and the fire would get incredibly bright (much to the amazement of those who didn't realize what had been done.
If I'm not mistaken, weren't Pontiac Fieros known for combusting, due to their magnesium construction, as well?
@@revolutionday1 Fieros lit off because there was a configuration problem that led to puddling... the ones with that trouble had an iron block and iron heads.
Why did you use the vacuum distributor? Centrifugal distributors are much more responsive and eliminate another potential vacuum leak, the bane of VW engines of that era. The solex carbs were cheaply made without a bearing around the throttle rod. So, in time the hole in the carb would become leaky, and the car would stall when you hit the gas from a dead stop. I installed a Brosol progressive carb kit on a '74 Karmann Ghia, and I could not get full throttle, too. Changing the carb to the Brazilian Fox carb made the KG run like a car at about 15 mpg!
This is the best rebuild/teardown video I've ever seen.
Thank you!
Excellent! Thank you. Doing one in our barn currently.
Jim Snyder try to watch a more detailed build, from real VW guys, they did many things wrong, the only one I’ll mention is beating the gears on the end of the crank shaft. These are heated and slip on with a pair of welding gloves. No hammers are needed. It ran but after watching this I would pass on buying anything they built.
Believe me big chunks of magnesium burn if there is enough heat.
Very cool, you made that bug motorlook easy!!
@35:28 Is the exact time you see the distributor drive gear laying at the far end of the work bench. ; )
It would be absolutely amazing if you guys could rebuild an old 3rd gen Ford inline 6. There not powerful but they'll run forever! Great video guys
Your next engine rebuild - A Jaguar xk6 4.2 liter from a an XJ6 coupe or sedan. This engine was used for 40 years in exotics to tanks. And can be boosted to double HP without mods.
Fantastic video. One of my favorites.
Great video, 2 things / suggestions When your there and doing it, just yank out the dual barrel carb (there are always issues with them, ie not enough manifold heat, ect) and the other thing get rid of the generator and do an alternator conversion next time. :) Great video!
I know you said some installs were not camera worthy, but i never saw you install the thermostat under the right side cylinders. I guessing it wasn't filmed :)
I believe the block is a magnesium-aluminum alloy. The studs were screwed directly into the threaded holes in the case - no inserts. The case tends to weaken with age and overheating and then the studs will pull out, and damage the magnesium-aluminum thread, when the nuts that hold the heads down, are tightened - thus the inserts are added. However the inserts were not put in very well were they!?
... I totally would have taken those 94 pistons and the camshaft....
Fantastic after the build video please make more of them
Manx is right those are not Porsche heads, they're VW.
Porsche heads from a 356 lets say, have the rockers arranged in a funky asymmetrical pattern, not parallel like VWs.
I was going to say the same thing... you can actually see the VW markings on them.
Just a couple of observations... 1. You used an alternator stand and a fuel pump for an alternator but put a generator on it. 2. The connecting rods have a bump on the outside edge that all should be facing the same direction. You had 3 facing up and 1 down. Other than that, I kinda like the new EMPI cases.
They called it a universal case. It had the proper factory specs to fit Type 1, Type 2 bus, and Type 3. But not for Type 4 bus after 1972. The case you see here is an after market case built by Empi, with all the strengthening built into the weak spots.
Nice job boys!
I love watching video like this awesome restoration .
You forgot the thermostat. I'm not joking. It goes on the right side under the pushrod tubes. It has a bracket. Also has a rod that goes to the fan shroud. This will self destruct if it isn't in.
where in the video?
Remo Williams It would have needed to go in before the cooling shroud around 37:40. It will run but it will have lots of problems through it's short miserable life. It will eventually foul plugs like mad and lose a lot of compression because without the temperature cyciling right it will make the heads loose, and wear out the rings. The heater won't work well either. Oil leaks are more likely too.
I could be mistaken but I thought the 1973 models had mechanical fuel injection. But maybe that came in 1974. Not sure what year the engine is but I've never seen a VW carb that looks like the one on your engine. I believe all the carbs were Solex carbs, not Webers. I'm not surprised the weber was hooked up to the throttle cable improperly.
I was a typical gearhead kid growing up in the late 1960's & early 70's starting out wrenching on lawnmowers then moving up to dirt bikes then Volkswagens because they were so similar to the air cooled motorcycle engines plus derelict VW's were cheap & plentiful back then because so few knew how to work on them because they were so different from a conventional car. Got several because the original owners didn't get the valves adjusted and they swallowed a valve as a result but bought or were given some because the owner bought an american car ( Ford GM or Mopar ) and the american dealer would take the VW on trade and they ended up sitting in their backyard until I asked about it several years latter.
This is cool to hear the story! Well done!