Great video! I just wanted to share that, ..all the different 289 engines from 1965 thru 1967 used the same block. What made the various 289 engines unique were the engine codes. A-code engines had 10:1 compression, hydraulic cam, 4 barrel carb on a cast iron manifold, making 225 hp.. The C codes had a 9.3:1 compression, hydraulic cam, 2 barrel carb, making 200 hp.. D code engines were the first 289 engines 1964 1/2 were identical to the C-codes but with a 4 barrel carb, making 210 hp. K- Code HiPo engines had 10.5:1 compression, solid cam, 4 barrel carb on a cast iron high flow intake manifold, making 271 hp ..this HiPo engine also had wider main bearing caps than the other codes. Carroll Shelby used the 289 K- code engine in all the 1965 thru 1967 Shelby GT350's but made the engines unique by used his custom SHELBY cast aluminum value covers and aluminum intake manifolds that allowed increased plenem volume, yielding 306 hp. Shelbys HiPo 289 K-Code engine came at a point in Chevrolets history of 300 hp 327 Corvettes... .
The coffee coloured oil he refers to only generally shows up when the engine has been overheated to a standstill "then then topped up with water, creating the coffee colour oil, generally a thinwall casting motor like these when overheated enough to blow a headgasket it will also have warped the block head surface and cylinders walls , i worked for a mustang restorations and classic racecar shop. Main thing to remember these are 60 years old and generally run into the ground
Great job! Love watching these vids! It’s sweet to see the complete start to finish of some of my favorite engines. Would like to definitely see other engines in the future like maybe a 350 rocket, 455, 427,428, 460 and a rotary for sure for a couple other ideas. Also show the difference of the Windsor, Cleveland and modified heads for the 351. Keep up the great vids guys thank you!
I had one of these in my first ever car. This has to be the most bulletproof of all the old era Ford V-8's. The thing was virtually indestructible... and trust me, I tried. Not to mention, the thing was old and tired when I got it, and it STILL wouldn't let go.
Excellent content! Would LOVE to see more of this series, just get better audio and it will be a 11/10 video. Also, props to the builder for and his crew for such amazing restoration work, engine mastery at its best. AND! Props to the camera guy/editor and all the crew, the timelapse, music and editing is on point, you guys are hitting it out of the park so keep it up!
great video. Wish I still had my original 68 Mustang 289 to do a rebuild just like the one you are doing. loved that engine. very reliable and plenty of power and guts. 👍👍
Good job guys, I believe the detail on procedure follow the steps disassembly to reassembly was good for new builders. Keep up the good work thank you from the great white north 👍👍👍
Hey don't even need the alternator if you have a good battery. Save drag on the engine. I once drove 150 miles in -40F deg weather with a 350 sbc in a 57 Chev with no water pump, no fan, no heater and no alternator running. This was due to a broken alt mount. I had a temp sender between # 1 & # 3 cyl and an after market temp sender in the intake. She stayed at 180 degrees as long as I could stay at highway speeds. I coasted through small towns with the engine off. Convection currents in the engine and rad plus bitter temps kept her cool. And a scraper kept us looking out the windows. We were frozen solid when we got home though
This is one of my favorite shows, when is the next one coming! more of theses please! How would I love to be invited to learn all from these guys! (while we rebuild my old 289)
You should make a show. Where two people go to a far corner on the US, buy an old classic and try to drive in home. Fixing it on route and having an adventure. There is nothing else on RUclips like that.
i owned a real K code '65 fastback...the non California cars don't have vins on the block so all you can do to verify originality is check the dates to be consistent with the build date of the car and verify the main caps and heads and look for the crankshaft metallurgical test mark that were used to select a hipo crankshaft. Of course the Hipo engines had the special counter weight/hatchet shaft and hipo rods and harmonic balancer and a dual point distributor also. Anyway we believed we had the original K engine so myself and my dad (an old Ford guy and a Rocket Engineer at The Cape) rebuilt it according to blueprint specs including an align-bore and added the Shelby mods (manifold, carb (we used a Holley 650 double pumper with mechanical secondaries rather than the specified holley 715 and tri-y's). When the engine was dyno'd it pulled 311 HP...so 5 more than the advertised 306. My dad said it was our meticulous rebuild to blue print specs that gained us the 5 HP.
Interesting that you are talking about valve springs. Turns out I have to replace the springs in the new engine. They came from Kaufman with K-Motion and for some reason the seat pressure is all over the place (three at 210 and on the other end four at 260) in any case we feel it is not enough seat pressure for the new engine. I'm going to replace them with Comp 699's on the vehicle (will be making a video on that). Been learning about bind, clearance and install height this week. See you this spring I hope, Not sure I will be ready for Gateway. Glenn Lever
I love these motor rebuilds. If I have a complaint, it's that you don't leave enough footage at the end to let the motor roar! We wanna hear that!! Awesome job guys :)
Guys, these are fantastic. Some of the best rebuild videos I’ve ever seen. The questions and answers are great. Camera guy making great observations and questions from someone who understands the basics and the answers from a master mechanic. I also like that you guys don’t skip the little details that a lot of the other rebuilder and builder shows do. Keep them coming.
You should put the microphone in the middle of that table in front of you next time. Edit: Or put the mic on the interviewee instead of the interviewer.
Good video, but I'm glad you just said this was built to GT350 like specs. Because although a GT350 mustang 289 is just a hipo 289 with a different intake, carb and distributor there were still several things different with the block, crank, rods, and heads that would bring it fully up to those specs.
Left me inspired. David, your an incredibly smart dude amazing at your trade (your passion). i got to find something to restore in my future I'm 27 years old my father has a '68 Chevy and and model B Ford (modified) he'll be seeing these videos for sure! Thank you to the film and editors as well keep up the videos!
Would love if you posted the exact part numbers you used; cam, rockers, etc. You did say JE pistons. And what kit did you buy; did it come with the timing chain, etc. Overall a great build vid.
when I built my last 289 I stuck a big speaker magnet 2 or 3 inch sized to the outside bottom of the oil pan, a few years later a noisy fuel pump convinced me to pull the pan and check the rods, around the magnetized area was a film of iron dust collected there and saved from going thru the oil pump, that engine lasted 10 years of strip and street duty and ran great when I sold the car. might want to do the same. would have loved to build a long rod 302 which is a 302 crank and 289 rods with different custom pistons, supposedly they run great.. makes sense since a Boss 302 ran hi po 289 rods.
By mistake on behalf of PAW which is no longer around. In my rebuild kit 40 years ago they sent a solid lift Cam and Hydraulic lifters. Still running great.
@@richardanderson5109 ive never had a problem with cork gaskets or fram. Change filters regularly. Use a new gasket when you remove an old one. No problems.
Fram gets a bad rep because they're so common, people always see them on blown engines. They aren't the best filters, but regular oil changes and nothing wrong with a Fram.
In 1963 and 1964 at least, 289's went into the Galaxie as well- My parents owned a 1964 Galaxie 500 4 door that had the 289 and Cruise-O-Matic trans...
@@richardanderson5109 thousands. Lol. Here they wanted 2000 In machine work if I took it apart. That's just the block not the heads. I could buy assembled aluminum heads for their cost of rebuilding my stock ones.
In ANY Vee type engine, One head is slightly ahead of the other head because of the way the rods are on the engine. The head that is farther ahead gets the number one cylinder. So when looking for the number one spark plug on any engine, look to see which head is ahead. Easy....The numbering is as per the engine brand and must match the camshaft.
I'm not a Ford guy, but back in better days I was highly impressed with a friend's 68 Cougar. With a swap for Cleveland heads, a solid bottom end and a .500 or so bumpstick, a 289 Clevor engine can be a beast.
These videos are extremely helpful. I would like to suggest that both Hosts use the same mic's; the guy on the right is louder than the guy on the left. You could also put up some Auralex or even Boom Mat in that little production studio.
Very nice build. I would have gone studs in the mains and heads. They are just so much stiffer than cap bolts, which were compressed into that shape, so are not as stiff. Nice, much like one of my own.
Hello, Audio on the VW build was so much better. Hope all will be like that. Very good video, very informative and enjoyable. I have a challenge for you. Could you please rebuild a GM 3.4L V6 from a '95 Camaro and install into a Pontiac Fiero GT 1987-'88? The community is 30,000 strong and would love to see this. Thank you, I am looking forward to it.
The reason vehicle brands have different firing orders for their engines is due to American intellectual property and patent rights. In order to patent something, it has to be at least 15% different from a similar item. The easiest way to do this is to change things like; firing order, cylinder number, part names, bolt patterns, part locations, etc. They do the same thing, often the same way, but patents aren't infringed.
I had a 289 bored out to a 293….was my cousins motor he had balanced to put in his Pinto daily driver until he sold motor to me for 500 bucks and I put it in my mustang Cobra 2…miss that car!
really cool initiative, I learned a lot ! I wished you would go a bit more in depth over the engine peripherals though. Also a suggestion : if you consider another edition, sometimes it might be just better to stop the video on a still frame, than to go back and forth.
I had a 69 mustang with a factory 302 2v, and it was rated at 220 hp. I don't think you could get 300 hp out of the stock heads. They were designed for low speed torque, not power, with small valves.
Yeah and the 200 hp was gross hp. It was probably around 150 or so in net hp. I find it difficult to believe this engine got 300 hp. Would really like to see the dyno sheet and cam specs. And you would need the head work to go along with a hot cam. I rebuilt my 289 back in the 80's similar to this one and doubt that it has more than 210 net hp. My mistakes were going with too mild a cam and not getting head work done. I did use the roller tip rockers, got new valves and that was it. Another mistake was using a single plane intake. I used it because I got it very cheap. The engine does have a really nice mid range. Without the head work plus an out of the box Holley 600 equals a rich running engine.
But the thing about the old cars, such as a 60's Mustang they were 1000 lbs lighter than a late model Mustang, and they had few things parasitic on the power. So 250-300 hp is all you need in an old Mustang for it to be fast.
iv e noticed that barrel faced top rings dont leave a ridge on the top of the cylinder bore as much as straight cut rings, and as they wear the ring surface in crease,s even though the gap is wider and the second ring is just scraper
Good Job! but what kind Cam and what was the lift? I have1965 Mustang 289 Holly 4 BBL and Edelbrock intake and Header the only thing missing is the Cam. Thanks in Advance
When it comes to solid lifters, and the cam is on spec, I adjust each intake and exhaust on top dead center, using the firing order, and I adjust em when they are hot, am I right or wrong, yeah I know its messy.
20:40 I was always told that leaded gasoline left an ash on the valve seat, and that ash acted like a cushion between the valve and seat. That cushion prevented valve seat wear. Once unleaded gasoline took over, there was no longer an ash that formed on the exhaust seat, so the valve seat felt the full force of the valve hitting it. That was what would beat non hardened valve seats out of shape. Also, I thought the lead was no lube, the reason it was used was that tetra-ethyl-lead was a cheap way of raising fuel octane. One trick used by classic car guys was MMT based gasoline additives. They would raise the octane and form ash on the exhaust valve seat. However, that ash would be far less toxic than lead. 24:55 I always worried that this process would ruin the heat treatment that makes the rods tough. I suppose that is why rod heaters are so specialized. 59:29 I figured you would buy a parts store rebuild. 101:29 The LS is practically the opposite. A flat tip and a roller fulcrum. I guess that works because they all had hydraulic cams from the factory.
We had our "C" code 289 overhauled a few years ago by Burt's in Colorado Springs. They have been here since the 1950's and they did it nearly the same way you did. They did add push rod guides and left the hydraulic lifters though. Still not enough power for me. Maybe add a Paxton supercharger since we are at 6,000' above sea level? Or NOS? What do you think?
I probably would've used modern cast iron heads on this (either from the 5.0 HO, or more likely, GT40 or 40Ps) for a little more power without giving a whole lot away looks wise.
Can I send my Mustang to you guys for an engine rebuild? If not any great places you'd recommend in California that will dedicate as much attention to detail are you have?
Next time you do this... put a mic on BOTH people.... the guy that did the work is the only one I wanna hear and the guy on the right is 10x louder... really fun on the headphones.
Hmm. No machining of the block? No squaring things up in relation to each other or cleaning things up afterwards? Just asking from a longevity standpoint since you’re upping the power a little bit. I did this with a standard 289 from a Mustang but I took it out to about 450hp and as far as I know that engine is still running today.
I didn’t catch the part about the fuel pump.... how did he bypass the rod that operates the diaphragm? He mentioned it operated on some sort of a cam now?
When doing the cleaning of the block how are the cooling passages cleaned. A situation I had was the original owner had used water only for a coolant and there were rust particles within the block unbeknownst to me. These unfortunately were flushed by the coolant after rebuild and plugged radiator passages. This caused major problems for a long time until I rebuilt the engine again and had particular attention paid to cleaning. This did resolve the problem but I continue to watch and wait as you just can't look inside those passages. That is the reason for the question.
Those hot tanks dissolve any small particles of iron that might form on the surface of the casting. The liquid in a hot tank has lye in it...very strong stuff. Once they remove it from the tank they wash it and remove anything that might be in those passages.
My concern is that there could be air pockets within the passages and one really can't see inside. Is there a 'normal' method to ensure that all the passage is cleaned
Had to laugh about the freeze plug not being placed before you put the intake manifold on...I had done the very same thing and discovered while priming but it took me a whole day to figure out what I did wrong in the assembly. That was a long time ago but I still laugh about it because it took so long to figure out.
In 1980 in 11’th grade I had a 289/C4 in a 1962 Falcon Ranchero that ran 11,80’s before the 5.0 era with all the aftermarket support! It would launch harder than most big blocks.
Watch the original rebuild video here: ruclips.net/video/tVtrnxx3rTE/видео.html
Hagerty amazing video
So what car are you going to put it in?
excellent video, thanks! what happens to these engines after rebuilding?
Most important part in forgot the balance the engine and how the porting work going to head
So I got a drill press and a chain saw. But I think Ill let him rebuild my engine
I could listen to Davin talk about cars all day
Great video! I just wanted to share that, ..all the different 289 engines from 1965 thru 1967 used the same block. What made the various 289 engines unique were the engine codes. A-code engines had 10:1 compression, hydraulic cam, 4 barrel carb on a cast iron manifold, making 225 hp.. The C codes had a 9.3:1 compression, hydraulic cam, 2 barrel carb, making 200 hp.. D code engines were the first 289 engines 1964 1/2 were identical to the C-codes but with a 4 barrel carb, making 210 hp. K- Code HiPo engines had 10.5:1 compression, solid cam, 4 barrel carb on a cast iron high flow intake manifold, making 271 hp ..this HiPo engine also had wider main bearing caps than the other codes.
Carroll Shelby used the 289 K- code engine in all the 1965 thru 1967 Shelby GT350's but made the engines unique by used his custom SHELBY cast aluminum value covers and aluminum intake manifolds that allowed increased plenem volume, yielding 306 hp. Shelbys HiPo 289 K-Code engine came at a point in Chevrolets history of 300 hp 327 Corvettes...
.
This was great for some-of-us who ain’t got a clue! Two good old boys sitting down and explaining just what an engine rebuild is!! Good job Hagerty!
YES!! So good to see the guys behind the camera!!
This is great for a beginner to get pointers on a rebuild job. Thanks for sharing this.
These videos are excellent. They're like a year of auto-mechanics class wrapped into 25 minutes. Keep it up.
I love these videos!
Especially on a 289! Special place in my heart for 289’s
- the quality of parts is amazing... .
So is the craftsmanship.
Respect.
✌👌
Thanks everyone into the engineering.
By far the best engine building video on you tube...the narration over the video was genius
The coffee coloured oil he refers to only generally shows up when the engine has been overheated to a standstill "then then topped up with water, creating the coffee colour oil, generally a thinwall casting motor like these when overheated enough to blow a headgasket it will also have warped the block head surface and cylinders walls , i worked for a mustang restorations and classic racecar shop. Main thing to remember these are 60 years old and generally run into the ground
Great job! Love watching these vids! It’s sweet to see the complete start to finish of some of my favorite engines. Would like to definitely see other engines in the future like maybe a 350 rocket, 455, 427,428, 460 and a rotary for sure for a couple other ideas. Also show the difference of the Windsor, Cleveland and modified heads for the 351. Keep up the great vids guys thank you!
I had one of these in my first ever car. This has to be the most bulletproof of all the old era Ford V-8's. The thing was virtually indestructible... and trust me, I tried. Not to mention, the thing was old and tired when I got it, and it STILL wouldn't let go.
greatly appreciate you running through this. Its a good skill for people to learn
Appreciate the behind the scenes look at the build. Good explanation of the engine rebuild process for the uninitiated. Thanks for sharing!
HAD ONE OF THESE IN A 63' FALCON SPRINT BUILT A LITTER HOTTER ,GREAT STREET CAR BACK THEN.
I would also like to see anti seize on the threads of the head bolts, crank and rod bolts and spark plugs. Keeps the torque smooth and threads clean
Excellent content! Would LOVE to see more of this series, just get better audio and it will be a 11/10 video.
Also, props to the builder for and his crew for such amazing restoration work, engine mastery at its best.
AND! Props to the camera guy/editor and all the crew, the timelapse, music and editing is on point, you guys are hitting it out of the park so keep it up!
great video. Wish I still had my original 68 Mustang 289 to do a rebuild just like the one you are doing. loved that engine. very reliable and plenty of power and guts. 👍👍
i have one id sell ya lmao
Good job guys, I believe the detail on procedure follow the steps disassembly to reassembly was good for new builders. Keep
up the good work thank you from the great white north 👍👍👍
I really like this guy. I would very happily stand to the side and watch this rebuild
Hey don't even need the alternator if you have a good battery. Save drag on the engine.
I once drove 150 miles in -40F deg weather with a 350 sbc in a 57 Chev with no water pump, no fan, no heater and no alternator running. This was due to a broken alt mount. I had a temp sender between # 1 & # 3 cyl and an after market temp sender in the intake. She stayed at 180 degrees as long as I could stay at highway speeds. I coasted through small towns with the engine off. Convection currents in the engine and rad plus bitter temps kept her cool. And a scraper kept us looking out the windows. We were frozen solid when we got home though
This is one of my favorite shows, when is the next one coming! more of theses please! How would I love to be invited to learn all from these guys! (while we rebuild my old 289)
Love your videos! I have a 1983 5.0L Mustang 302 to rebuild this spring so this is very helpful.
You should make a show. Where two people go to a far corner on the US, buy an old classic and try to drive in home. Fixing it on route and having an adventure. There is nothing else on RUclips like that.
Then we would have to pay for it. RIP Roadkill.
i owned a real K code '65 fastback...the non California cars don't have vins on the block so all you can do to verify originality is check the dates to be consistent with the build date of the car and verify the main caps and heads and look for the crankshaft metallurgical test mark that were used to select a hipo crankshaft. Of course the Hipo engines had the special counter weight/hatchet shaft and hipo rods and harmonic balancer and a dual point distributor also. Anyway we believed we had the original K engine so myself and my dad (an old Ford guy and a Rocket Engineer at The Cape) rebuilt it according to blueprint specs including an align-bore and added the Shelby mods (manifold, carb (we used a Holley 650 double pumper with mechanical secondaries rather than the specified holley 715 and tri-y's). When the engine was dyno'd it pulled 311 HP...so 5 more than the advertised 306. My dad said it was our meticulous rebuild to blue print specs that gained us the 5 HP.
Interesting that you are talking about valve springs. Turns out I have to replace the springs in the new engine. They came from Kaufman with K-Motion and for some reason the seat pressure is all over the place (three at 210 and on the other end four at 260) in any case we feel it is not enough seat pressure for the new engine. I'm going to replace them with Comp 699's on the vehicle (will be making a video on that). Been learning about bind, clearance and install height this week. See you this spring I hope, Not sure I will be ready for Gateway. Glenn Lever
Omg that motor sounds soooo good
I love these motor rebuilds. If I have a complaint, it's that you don't leave enough footage at the end to let the motor roar! We wanna hear that!! Awesome job guys :)
Guys, these are fantastic. Some of the best rebuild videos I’ve ever seen. The questions and answers are great. Camera guy making great observations and questions from someone who understands the basics and the answers from a master mechanic. I also like that you guys don’t skip the little details that a lot of the other rebuilder and builder shows do. Keep them coming.
You should put the microphone in the middle of that table in front of you next time.
Edit: Or put the mic on the interviewee instead of the interviewer.
There was an export issue. Davin had a microphone on but Premiere Pro decided it didn't want to export that channel. 🤷🏻♂️
@@Hagerty If you can't, don't.
I couldn't hear a word they said
Good video, but I'm glad you just said this was built to GT350 like specs. Because although a GT350 mustang 289 is just a hipo 289 with a different intake, carb and distributor there were still several things different with the block, crank, rods, and heads that would bring it fully up to those specs.
Left me inspired. David, your an incredibly smart dude amazing at your trade (your passion). i got to find something to restore in my future I'm 27 years old my father has a '68 Chevy and and model B Ford (modified) he'll be seeing these videos for sure! Thank you to the film and editors as well keep up the videos!
It's actually Davin.
Would love if you posted the exact part numbers you used; cam, rockers, etc. You did say JE pistons. And what kit did you buy; did it come with the timing chain, etc.
Overall a great build vid.
I would LOVE to know also!
when I built my last 289 I stuck a big speaker magnet 2 or 3 inch sized to the outside bottom of the oil pan, a few years later a noisy fuel pump convinced me to pull the pan and check the rods, around the magnetized area was a film of iron dust collected there and saved from going thru the oil pump, that engine lasted 10 years of strip and street duty and ran great when I sold the car. might want to do the same. would have loved to build a long rod 302 which is a 302 crank and 289 rods with different custom pistons, supposedly they run great.. makes sense since a Boss 302 ran hi po 289 rods.
Best Batman and Robin grind on RUclips
By mistake on behalf of PAW which is no longer around. In my rebuild kit 40 years ago they sent a solid lift Cam and Hydraulic lifters. Still running great.
Holman Moody valve covers , mint !
Ford Dark Blue, and it came out like that? Love that color!
Great job guys, wish I could find an old 289.
A cork gasket? AND a Fram oil filter! So many heads exploding. ;)
J Smith lol. It’s what I’ve been using for years on basic engines.
That's just beginning I built mine with same expertise at 15. These guys are supposed to be experts
Ain't a damn thing wrong with a cork gasket or a Fram filter,you young farts just don't know how to use 'em !!!!!!!
@@richardanderson5109 ive never had a problem with cork gaskets or fram. Change filters regularly. Use a new gasket when you remove an old one. No problems.
Fram gets a bad rep because they're so common, people always see them on blown engines.
They aren't the best filters, but regular oil changes and nothing wrong with a Fram.
In 1963 and 1964 at least, 289's went into the Galaxie as well- My parents owned a 1964 Galaxie 500 4 door that had the 289 and Cruise-O-Matic trans...
What would an average cost be for the machine shop work done on this engine?
Depends on if you take it apart or if they take it apart, same with building it
A lot !!!!! Whether you take it apart or NOT !!!!!
@@richardanderson5109 thousands. Lol. Here they wanted 2000 In machine work if I took it apart. That's just the block not the heads. I could buy assembled aluminum heads for their cost of rebuilding my stock ones.
that's one sweet looking engine.
Great job guys!
On the fuel pump I had one just like it on a 460 in a '74 Mark IV.
In ANY Vee type engine, One head is slightly ahead of the other head because of the way the rods are on the engine. The head that is farther ahead gets the number one cylinder.
So when looking for the number one spark plug on any engine, look to see which head is ahead. Easy....The numbering is as per the engine brand and must match the camshaft.
Good vid ! Have a 66 289 from my first mustang . This made me want to pull it out of storage and toss a rebuilt at it. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I'm not a Ford guy, but back in better days I was highly impressed with a friend's 68 Cougar. With a swap for Cleveland heads, a solid bottom end and a .500 or so bumpstick, a 289 Clevor engine can be a beast.
did i miss degreeing the cam shaft in? love this series! thanks. ☆☆☆
This is great! Cool and useful video guys. Keep doing videos like This one.
These videos are extremely helpful. I would like to suggest that both Hosts use the same mic's; the guy on the right is louder than the guy on the left. You could also put up some Auralex or even Boom Mat in that little production studio.
Very nice build. I would have gone studs in the mains and heads. They are just so much stiffer than cap bolts, which were compressed into that shape, so are not as stiff. Nice, much like one of my own.
Hello, Audio on the VW build was so much better. Hope all will be like that. Very good video, very informative and enjoyable. I have a challenge for you. Could you please rebuild a GM 3.4L V6 from a '95 Camaro and install into a Pontiac Fiero GT 1987-'88? The community is 30,000 strong and would love to see this. Thank you, I am looking forward to it.
The reason vehicle brands have different firing orders for their engines is due to American intellectual property and patent rights. In order to patent something, it has to be at least 15% different from a similar item. The easiest way to do this is to change things like; firing order, cylinder number, part names, bolt patterns, part locations, etc. They do the same thing, often the same way, but patents aren't infringed.
I had a 289 bored out to a 293….was my cousins motor he had balanced to put in his Pinto daily driver until he sold motor to me for 500 bucks and I put it in my mustang Cobra 2…miss that car!
Laser pointer for the screen would be pretty sweet.
Excellent and most appreciated
He redone his Ford motor and it runs and endurance race for 33,000 MI and had no problems Non-Stop
Great video!!! Just one recommendation You need to sync your microphone volumes!
Great video per usual keep up the good work!
Thanks Jack
really cool initiative, I learned a lot ! I wished you would go a bit more in depth over the engine peripherals though. Also a suggestion : if you consider another edition, sometimes it might be just better to stop the video on a still frame, than to go back and forth.
A base 289 2V doesn't make 260 hp, more like 200.
in '64, this 289 2V was rated @ 195 HP, close to what you suggest. They tended to make a little more (maybe 210~220), but yeah, 260 is a 'bit' high.
I had a 69 mustang with a factory 302 2v, and it was rated at 220 hp.
I don't think you could get 300 hp out of the stock heads. They were designed for low speed torque, not power, with small valves.
Yeah and the 200 hp was gross hp. It was probably around 150 or so in net hp. I find it difficult to believe this engine got 300 hp. Would really like to see the dyno sheet and cam specs. And you would need the head work to go along with a hot cam. I rebuilt my 289 back in the 80's similar to this one and doubt that it has more than 210 net hp. My mistakes were going with too mild a cam and not getting head work done. I did use the roller tip rockers, got new valves and that was it. Another mistake was using a single plane intake. I used it because I got it very cheap. The engine does have a really nice mid range. Without the head work plus an out of the box Holley 600 equals a rich running engine.
Agreed. The '65 (6 bolt) 289 4V was 225 HP. The High Performance 289 had 271 HP which had the solid lifter cam. The Shelby version was a tad higher.
But the thing about the old cars, such as a 60's Mustang they were 1000 lbs lighter than a late model Mustang, and they had few things parasitic on the power. So 250-300 hp is all you need in an old Mustang for it to be fast.
Great explanation guys. How do I get a Pennzoil table like I see in the video. Pennzoil is my fav flavor oil!
the Ford 2bbl 289 came from the factory with 195-200 hp, the 4bbl 2 bolt main version was rated at 220-225 hp, but I'm sure you were aware of that
iv e noticed that barrel faced top rings dont leave a ridge on the top of the cylinder bore as much as straight cut rings, and as they wear the ring surface in crease,s even though the gap is wider and the second ring is just scraper
Good Job! but what kind Cam and what was the lift? I have1965 Mustang 289 Holly 4 BBL and Edelbrock intake and Header the only thing missing is the Cam. Thanks in Advance
Good Job
When it comes to solid lifters, and the cam is on spec, I adjust each intake and exhaust on top dead center, using the firing order, and I adjust em when they are hot, am I right or wrong, yeah I know its messy.
I have a 1970 Boss 302 engine I’d loan for one of these rebuilds!
20:40 I was always told that leaded gasoline left an ash on the valve seat, and that ash acted like a cushion between the valve and seat. That cushion prevented valve seat wear. Once unleaded gasoline took over, there was no longer an ash that formed on the exhaust seat, so the valve seat felt the full force of the valve hitting it. That was what would beat non hardened valve seats out of shape. Also, I thought the lead was no lube, the reason it was used was that tetra-ethyl-lead was a cheap way of raising fuel octane.
One trick used by classic car guys was MMT based gasoline additives. They would raise the octane and form ash on the exhaust valve seat. However, that ash would be far less toxic than lead.
24:55 I always worried that this process would ruin the heat treatment that makes the rods tough. I suppose that is why rod heaters are so specialized.
59:29 I figured you would buy a parts store rebuild.
101:29 The LS is practically the opposite. A flat tip and a roller fulcrum. I guess that works because they all had hydraulic cams from the factory.
I rarely watch a 1 hour plus long video on RUclips, I just did.
We had our "C" code 289 overhauled a few years ago by Burt's in Colorado Springs. They have been here since the 1950's and they did it nearly the same way you did. They did add push rod guides and left the hydraulic lifters though. Still not enough power for me. Maybe add a Paxton supercharger since we are at 6,000' above sea level? Or NOS? What do you think?
Thanks
good job
Dave what was the cam specs.for this build.
What car was this outstanding engine placed in? Anyone know? Thanks in advance.
Is that a factory distributor with the vacuum advance that you can stick a quarter inch allen wrench in and adjust the total advance??
Now you're going to do a 289 which is good but we want to know if the rebuild lasted or not
I probably would've used modern cast iron heads on this (either from the 5.0 HO, or more likely, GT40 or 40Ps) for a little more power without giving a whole lot away looks wise.
Great video guys, would love to see some big blocks, maybe even a diesel engine
Can I send my Mustang to you guys for an engine rebuild? If not any great places you'd recommend in California that will dedicate as much attention to detail are you have?
Why didn't you check the crank for end play ??????
Next time you do this... put a mic on BOTH people.... the guy that did the work is the only one I wanna hear and the guy on the right is 10x louder... really fun on the headphones.
Binge watching the cr@p out of these "Rebuilds Explained" videos. THANKS! Look forward to more!!
Marvelous.
Most of that sludge is from Oil from the 60s that used parrifin.
Hmm. No machining of the block? No squaring things up in relation to each other or cleaning things up afterwards? Just asking from a longevity standpoint since you’re upping the power a little bit. I did this with a standard 289 from a Mustang but I took it out to about 450hp and as far as I know that engine is still running today.
Good job 100%100
I didn’t catch the part about the fuel pump.... how did he bypass the rod that operates the diaphragm? He mentioned it operated on some sort of a cam now?
Awesome thanks
What happened to the gold valve cover engine/4v vs the red/2v engine you were working on.
So cool
I enjoyed this video
What cylinder does ford use to check timing for top dead center on this engine?
When doing the cleaning of the block how are the cooling passages cleaned. A situation I had was the original owner had used water only for a coolant and there were rust particles within the block unbeknownst to me. These unfortunately were flushed by the coolant after rebuild and plugged radiator passages. This caused major problems for a long time until I rebuilt the engine again and had particular attention paid to cleaning. This did resolve the problem but I continue to watch and wait as you just can't look inside those passages. That is the reason for the question.
Those hot tanks dissolve any small particles of iron that might form on the surface of the casting. The liquid in a hot tank has lye in it...very strong stuff. Once they remove it from the tank they wash it and remove anything that might be in those passages.
My concern is that there could be air pockets within the passages and one really can't see inside. Is there a 'normal' method to ensure that all the passage is cleaned
Richard Franke pretty sure they use circulation pumps in those tanks.
Had to laugh about the freeze plug not being placed before you put the intake manifold on...I had done the very same thing and discovered while priming but it took me a whole day to figure out what I did wrong in the assembly. That was a long time ago but I still laugh about it because it took so long to figure out.
In 1980 in 11’th grade I had a 289/C4 in a 1962 Falcon Ranchero that ran 11,80’s before the 5.0 era with all the aftermarket support! It would launch harder than most big blocks.
Sweet
What year Shelby is this 289 going in to the Color of my 1965 271hp stang engine was black with Gold valve covers Blue was not used until 1967!