I will never build a motor and my wrenching days are long gone. Why do I find these videos so satisfying to watch? IDK But gosh, there's something about all those new and beautiful parts going together so nicely by an expert........just fantastic. Thank you guys!
your satisfied because you’re watching an expert doing expert work & you have an eye for when passion & pro create mechanical performance. that’s what I tell myself
Thiese guys (Hargerty) makes watching this grueling process (I build engines once in a while and I'm OCD so its always painfully slow) fun and interesting to watch for seasoned mechanics like me and the un-initiated. It's a great learning tool too!
This has got to be the best explanation of an engine rebuild/assembly I've seen. It is very thorough and easy to understand. But I'll need to rewatch the timing wheel segment again. Davin, you do really nice work, sir!
Thirty years ago I did this with my dad in the garage. It was a 1979 351 Windsor engine. What a great time with Dad! I really miss those days, and Dad.
Ya gotta start somewhere. I was 16 and had little to no money for my 1st car. My dad help me with about 80. bucks so I could get a 150. dollar car. 58 T bird 352 with a cruise-O- madic. Well, the heads were off due to a blown head gasket. The mechanic had a depute with the prior owner and broke all the gages with a ball pin hammer. The parts were in the trunk for the engine. I was not happy about not having a running car. My Dad said" If you want to drive, you have to know how to fix it" he told me what needed doing, and after giving me and my older brother directions on small things, then we got all the way to finial assembly. Timing was off and burn off all the hair off the nosey neighbor Kid when it backfired through the carb. My Dad had paid for all the parts, and the money I earn was spent at the junk yard getting the gages repair. Brakes were adjusted, a little more gas. then my first drive around the block. I thought my dad didn't like me, due to my bro getting a newer car that ran great. What a dumb kid I was. Like you I miss his wisdom.
I was an automotive machinist back in the 1970’s and the shop I worked at did a lot of work for a local guy who restored Studebakers. Working on the Studebaker V-8 blocks was the first time I saw engines painted on the inside. I just learned now that the paint was Glyptal. Then I had to jump down the rabbit hole and get the history of it off Google. 😁👍🏼
No serious builder should use power tools to 'speed things up', as doing it by hand you can feel if there's an issue with a tight thread, or something else - should never happen if properly chased out, etc, but it certainly doesn't hurt.
When I worked at a Subaru dealership, I was told to use my air rachet when replacing spark plugs. I told the boss to pass off, I care about the customers car, and it will be serviced correctly, not with power tools.
Davin I love seeing you put these together, poetry in motion Pal! I haven’t done work like this in many many moons, but at 73 the old body just doesn’t like to cooperate. Still I can live vicariously through you and these great videos, thanks! I did just install the Rousch Cold Air kit on my 5.0 Coyote 2017 F-150, so I’m not completely helpless yet. 😊
These videos are a true public service for the DIY classic car crowd. These will become historical records that people will still be watching in 100 years to figure out how to rebuild their 150-year-old engines.
Man o man. I have a 1970s mustang with this motor in my garage. I can't wait to start breaking it down. How id like to have this guy next to me or rather have me next to him while he handles it. So much knowledge! Great videos btw keep up the good work guys
Well done. I have no need to know this information because I will never build an engine. But I surely enjoy watching you do it and love seeing the information. I love learning new things at my young age of 74.
DAVIN did you know the DE Tomaso 351 4V clevelands 1970,71,72,73 were Australian High Nickle content blocks and Nodular iron cranks. The entire 351 engines were made in Australia and shipped to where De Tomaso was built. Legendary Ford racer BoB Glidden said the ultimate 351 is the Aussie made engine that Ford Australia put in the Ford Falcon XY GTHO phase 3 cars they built in Australia by ford. The same Aussie engine took De Tomaso to Le Mans and had GREAT success. We built good stuff here in Australia. Another one to check out is the valiant Charger E38 and E49 Aussie 6cyl Hemi car,, it ran 13.9 off the showroom floor with 205,70,14 tires,, most big block production cars would struggle to run 13,s off the showroom floor, Steve in Australia. Thread gauge is also a good clearance checker,.
I've read differently Up until the early 74 XB the 351 Cleveland 4V motors were from the USA, mid 74 Ford Australia started building their own 351 and 302, The 302 had red rocker covers and both engines were 2V heads, LATER est 79 ish for built think called nucklehead blocks fro USA racing, The first badtch was rejected by Ford USA becaus ethe didnt read the memo and was only 2 bolt mains, Ford Aust then built the 4 Bolt mains for USA racing,, please correct me IF I'm wrong.
Awesome build, and great commitment to detail. One process I missed hearing about was bolt/fastener prep. Saw the often missed tapping of block bolt holes (really wished to see a tube extension on the blowout ), But noticed many times, a substance added to the bolts before assembly ( no explanation ). There was no mentioning of any thread locker on rod cap nuts and such, possibly not needed in this build or any , but no mention of its omition relevant to this build. Otherwise Very informative. Thanks again, for highlighting that checking and testing makes the build, trusting can be blind faith in building.
Outstanding assembly work! I learned years ago from a shop owner that built tractor pulling motors... An extra hour spent in the assembly details is 3 hours... or more... saved when it's in the car. Great job covering all the details and particulars of Cleveland engine building and performance. Other than cutting the exhaust sides of the heads to raise the exhaust ports and installing plates for better flow, you hit every necessity. Thoroughly enjoyed watching this video!
I've got two cleveland V8s in the shed, one 302 and the other is a 351. I cannot wait to start building them after watching this video. Great video with plenty of detail. Thanks!!
While watching Davin I was thing how cool it would have been to see a young guy or gal learning from a good mechanic how to build something with their head and hands. Well, I hope they're out there watching Davin. There's nothing finer that engine run on the stand, when you built that engine.
I enjoyed this video. My first car (bought used in 1977) was a 1971 Grabber Blue Mustang Mach 1 and it had the 351C/FMX drivetrain. I wish I still had that car.
This is awesome. I’ve never seen such a detailed account of an engine rebuild. I’d never have the skills to do this. And even if I did, my luck I’d get it all done and then forget to fill it with oil.
Uk guy here. This guy is ace . Its hard to take in some of the American phrases and ways. But after being a mechanic and fabricator for 30 plus years I love this . Keep it up guys and girls. I teach or try to tell the you ones but it's difficult in our throw away society.
Damn, Davin, that engine is gonna sound wicked in that Pantera! Your attention to detail is incredible; then again, you have all the fancy tools! Thanks to Davin and the always excellent Crew!✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
Had a 351 Cleveland in my 1974 Mercury cougar xr7 and it was fully built and sounded amazing, I only got 7mpg but that was when gas was 88 cents a gallon
Watching these videos makes me appreciate my classics even more seeing all the internals their functions and how it all comes together to make this grown man smile when my foot is on the gas
I have watched all three videos in this series, and I am very satisfied with the engine rebuild. I have learned so much, but I will never use it - too old now. Thank you for taking the time to produce this series for all of us shade tree mechanics and wannabes.
I own a 351 Cleveland. Here in Australia they are the more common Ford V8. Most I have done myself is install a new set of hydraulic lifters on my flat tappet camshaft. I have the same style adjustable roller rockes. The factory worshop manual shows the adjustment of the clearances using only three positions of the crankshaft. My pulley bolt was difficult to access in the car so i used a remote starter to bump the engine over. I really hope i did it right.
When filing the rings, do the second compression rings first. A slightly oversize gap(mistake) on the second compression is not usually a problem. The best way, in my opinion, is to practice with a few of the old rings.
Watching you with the speed wrench chasing threads just reminds me of my dad! Be prepared or prepare to fail. I tended to use a ratchet first then use the drill my dad hated it 😂 love watching your vids! It just reminds me of my dad very knowledgeable!
Just caught your show on Hagerty. Pretty nice, but I would like to point out a couple of things regarding Roller Cam Valve Train Components especially the valve to piston clearance. On your show it showed you claying the piston in the center of the valve pocket instead of on the edge where the valve will intersect the piston. Also most of us use the Dial Indicator method checking clearance at 10 degrees before and 10 degrees after TDC when the Camshaft is on Lobe Separation Cycle when both valves are open equally. The only other thing I would like to say is that I'm more into Mopar and BBC but on all Roller Cams that I deal with it's SO important to center the Lobe in the Lifter Bore and set the End play of the Cam which was NOT mentioned in your video. Also Indexing the piston rings was not mentioned. Important info for beginners. Enjoyed your videos. Keep it real.
Davin that was so cool the method to calibrate the TDC lobe separation (110 degree), That was so cool and fascinating. Thank you for taking the time to show us. Way more into the requirements than i would have thought. Thanks, Cheers
Perfection is achieved by paying attention to the slightest of details during the assembly process. This is a good example and you did an excellent job. There’s one thing that I might have missed during the bottom end assembly. Did you check the crankshaft end play ? The thrust clearance should always be verified. After you got the distributor phased correctly, the Cleveland fired right up and sounded good. Well done ! 🏁
Great video! This validates the engine builds that I’ve done. 2 items: I use 2 pieces of vacuum tubing on the connecting rod bolts during assembly to protect the crank, and 2 the oil clearance setting on the mains seemed to be exceeded with the amount of assembly lube. Keep the great content coming!
Watching because I've built and broken a bunch of 351Cs - but you can always learn something. I'm about to put the upgraded race 351c engine back in the car for the 2024 racing season. Enjoy these videos - solid info, good presentation, educational. A#1. Thanks for sharing this. And yea, remind the guys in the shop that Ford #1 is front right. 🤦♂️
The best engine build video I have seen! Do you ever use plasti gauge to test the clearance of rods and mains? And, please tell us what prelub you use for the maind, cam and rods? So many great details and information like checking the ring gaps, excellent primer. The push rod length makes a lot of sense as well. Thank you!
Your videos are awesome and watching these motors come together with all of these new parts and hearing it run for the first time is great!! Thanks for another great video!!
Good stuff & I did my 1st break in a few months back. Man that feeling is to die for ! I enjoyed seeing what into building mine here. Thanks for the knowledge "351c" 👌
Thanks to you guys for these red-line rebuild series, great presentation and hats off to the editing crew to mix it with time laps. Definitely look forward to the next one 😊
Nice build! Your attention to detail is incredible. No need to lap valves anymore? Fire in the hole! I hate it when it's 180 out. Thanks for doing what you do.
Good job buddy, thanks for showing the lifter bushes installation, i've read about this for years but never seen a vid on installing them, i nearly ordered these for my build, but the cost was too high with the oz $. another Cleveland lives !
The inner spring is setting on the guide boss, it will affect coil bind and spring pressure, also the outer spring needs something to locate on so 8t does not walk.
LS Ive done cam bearings from the front a few times. it has 2 pair and a single. 73 351c Im doing. I tried to do that front bearing with 2 holes from the front. I was extra careful and tried to go super easy. Its sitting on a work cart now off the stand and my new bearing set came in at 7:30am. Id like to get these done and throw that tool away for good. I will never try a set again without having 2 sets for emergencies so I can take a full set back when Im done.
Great timing, just happen to be assembling a 1970 351C 4V (now Boss plus) in my shop. Installing cam bearings today and cutting core/freeze plug holes for pipe plugs. 1 1/4 inch size. No leaks here. Recently installed a 302 cam that the cam card firing order was different than the cam was ground on. Stamped numbers matched the cam card. Cam Co. offered to replace the cam, but by the time I tried dozen restarts, cam flat. Using #1 to check cam timing will not tell you this!
@@Gokizzmass1971 was the first year for 302 Cleveland and 351 Cleveland in Australia, Cast at the Geelong Casting Centre, Victoria, Australia, last Australian 302/351 was put in 1986 model Australian F100 to F350s and 1983/4 in Falcons, Fairlanes and LTDs .
@@Gokizzmass there is a famous picture of the first 302 /351 C off the Geelong Casting Centre line in February 1971 it's on the official ford website .
Great Video!!! Thank you soooo much for all the details you included in this build video. I really appreciate knowing all the spec stuff. I like the time lapse stuff but I like to learn a lot too. Good builds are always made in the details. Very pretty motor by the way. Sounds good too!
Have to disagree on the exhaust gaskets; the Felpro are the only ones I've had hold up long term. You do have to re-torque them a couple of times after first start up, after that they're fine.
You went over and above precision on this build. There's no way it had that from the factory. Checking ring gaps, and valve spring heights/pressures just wasn't done. It should stand the test of time now in comparison to how it was originally made. Great job as always to everyone involved in these videos.❤
Please mention the #1 cam bearing gets set back .003-.005" from flush in front. Also, the oil pump drive shaft has a star retaining washer, there to help keep the distributor from pulling the shaft out of the pump. For a stock'ish engine I like to see fully grooved main bearings to protect the #2#7 rod bearings, a-la Boss 351. For engines seeing >6,250 RPM an aftermarket crank with corrected oil hole timing is pert-near required.
Hello David, you have an outstanding video! I have two stupid question(s). #1; it appears to me that you painted the engine valley with what appears to be red oxide, and if so, why? If you did so please tell me what brand that you used. #2; it appears to me that the piston skirt(s) are Teflon impregnated, and if not, please tell me what substance is used. And by the way, the oil pump, distributor shaft and the distributor rotate counter clockwise on all Ford V8s. Please reply and tell me what you think. Dave...
Davin thank you for showing the “how to” on the cam timing. I downloaded this video because of the expertise of your work👍 Is there a dyno rating video of this engine? Or did the customer request it be propriety? Thanks for this series👏👍🏁🇺🇸
Had very few tech teachers like you. Learned a tremendous amount. Make sure eye protection when using air pressure. Can't see if no eyes and then all those fancy gauges are useless.
Beautiful build, very detailed. Have you ever considered a light skim of flange sealer or Three Bond at the parting line of the rear main cap? Like just behind the main bolt area? Maybe overkill but would help prevent that little “seepage” that seems to happen there. Okay, okay I’ll get back in the shop and do my work 😂
I would have liked to see you talk about 351C specifics while doing this. Such as the thermostat. Most parts store and online parts places (yes, even rock auto) will sell you the wrong thermostat for a 351C. The cleveland ones need to have the little hat that mates to the copper ring in the block. If you just get the one rockauto or autozone's computer says you need, you will have overheating as the water continuously circulates in the engine and never makes it to the radiator. And it looked like you omitted the oil slinger under the timing cover. Maybe to make room for a double roller?
Nice and educational video . I liked the most the fact that at certain point in the build the oil lubrication was tested on the heads . Very wise . Is that also possible in any way for the lubrication on the lower parts like the crank ( i suppose not) ?
Such a cool entry from the Ford Motor Company. I only ever had an old, tired Windsor in a 75 Ranchero GT. She was more bondo than car but I loved her all the same
I have a 351c 4v from early 70s .Use to be in my dads engine they were in his 69 Cougar before he went back to a built 390. Fresh rebuild less then 5,000 miles on it .030 over. Been sitting in plastic for 10+ years. I plan on getting a adapter to go with a 6r80 and a quick shift controller installing in a 2012 mustang. I Plan on using a sniper efi, I just got to make a decision of leaving the engine alone or pull the 4v heads and switch to something aluminum.
@@ricardofierro7041 He butted two wrist pins together in a piston (half out each side) to serve as a positive stop, so the rings always sit in the bore at the same depth for checking.
Your videos have convinced me to take on my first engine build project. It would be awesome if you covered the full break in process / testing process.
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I will never build a motor and my wrenching days are long gone. Why do I find these videos so satisfying to watch? IDK But gosh, there's something about all those new and beautiful parts going together so nicely by an expert........just fantastic. Thank you guys!
your satisfied because you’re watching an expert doing expert work & you have an eye for when passion & pro create mechanical performance. that’s what I tell myself
Thiese guys (Hargerty) makes watching this grueling process (I build engines once in a while and I'm OCD so its always painfully slow) fun and interesting to watch for seasoned mechanics like me and the un-initiated. It's a great learning tool too!
Supervisors are always needed.
@@marksieber4626 and coffee..
Once a gearhead, always a gearhead! Lol Welcome to the club.
This has got to be the best explanation of an engine rebuild/assembly I've seen. It is very thorough and easy to understand. But I'll need to rewatch the timing wheel segment again. Davin, you do really nice work, sir!
Thirty years ago I did this with my dad in the garage. It was a 1979 351 Windsor engine. What a great time with Dad! I really miss those days, and Dad.
Ya gotta start somewhere. I was 16 and had little to no money for my 1st car. My dad help me with about 80. bucks so I could get a 150. dollar car. 58 T bird 352 with a cruise-O- madic. Well, the heads were off due to a blown head gasket. The mechanic had a depute with the prior owner and broke all the gages with a ball pin hammer. The parts were in the trunk for the engine. I was not happy about not having a running car. My Dad said" If you want to drive, you have to know how to fix it" he told me what needed doing, and after giving me and my older brother directions on small things, then we got all the way to finial assembly. Timing was off and burn off all the hair off the nosey neighbor Kid when it backfired through the carb. My Dad had paid for all the parts, and the money I earn was spent at the junk yard getting the gages repair. Brakes were adjusted, a little more gas. then my first drive around the block. I thought my dad didn't like me, due to my bro getting a newer car that ran great. What a dumb kid I was. Like you I miss his wisdom.
I'm so glad you showed this build in long form.
I was an automotive machinist back in the 1970’s and the shop I worked at did a lot of work for a local guy who restored Studebakers. Working on the Studebaker V-8 blocks was the first time I saw engines painted on the inside. I just learned now that the paint was Glyptal. Then I had to jump down the rabbit hole and get the history of it off Google. 😁👍🏼
I love how he doesn't use impact tools to rush the work!!!
I enjoy the time he takes with every single bolt and nut!!
Keep up the great work!
No serious builder should use power tools to 'speed things up', as doing it by hand you can feel if there's an issue with a tight thread, or something else - should never happen if properly chased out, etc, but it certainly doesn't hurt.
When I worked at a Subaru dealership, I was told to use my air rachet when replacing spark plugs.
I told the boss to pass off, I care about the customers car, and it will be serviced correctly, not with power tools.
Engine assembly is always fun to watch; regardless of the OEM. Good pointers always.
Davin I love seeing you put these together, poetry in motion Pal! I haven’t done work like this in many many moons, but at 73 the old body just doesn’t like to cooperate. Still I can live vicariously through you and these great videos, thanks!
I did just install the Rousch Cold Air kit on my 5.0 Coyote 2017 F-150, so I’m not completely helpless yet. 😊
These videos are a true public service for the DIY classic car crowd. These will become historical records that people will still be watching in 100 years to figure out how to rebuild their 150-year-old engines.
That was a solid ‘YEE HAHHHH!’
Man o man. I have a 1970s mustang with this motor in my garage. I can't wait to start breaking it down. How id like to have this guy next to me or rather have me next to him while he handles it. So much knowledge! Great videos btw keep up the good work guys
Well done. I have no need to know this information because I will never build an engine. But I surely enjoy watching you do it and love seeing the information. I love learning new things at my young age of 74.
Look up Shawn Willsey and Nick Zentner.
I also glad you showed blowing all blind holes with compressed air!
DAVIN did you know the DE Tomaso 351 4V clevelands 1970,71,72,73 were Australian High Nickle content blocks and Nodular iron cranks. The entire 351 engines were made in Australia and shipped to where De Tomaso was built.
Legendary Ford racer BoB Glidden said the ultimate 351 is the Aussie made engine that Ford Australia put in the Ford Falcon XY GTHO phase 3 cars they built in Australia by ford. The same Aussie engine took De Tomaso to Le Mans and had GREAT success. We built good stuff here in Australia. Another one to check out is the valiant Charger E38 and E49 Aussie 6cyl Hemi car,, it ran 13.9 off the showroom floor with 205,70,14 tires,, most big block production cars would struggle to run 13,s off the showroom floor, Steve in Australia.
Thread gauge is also a good clearance checker,.
I've read differently Up until the early 74 XB the 351 Cleveland 4V motors were from the USA, mid 74 Ford Australia started building their own 351 and 302, The 302 had red rocker covers and both engines were 2V heads, LATER est 79 ish for built think called nucklehead blocks fro USA racing, The first badtch was rejected by Ford USA becaus ethe didnt read the memo and was only 2 bolt mains, Ford Aust then built the 4 Bolt mains for USA racing,, please correct me IF I'm wrong.
De Tomaso never had success at Le Mans with the Pantera, never. Ford did with the GT40 but nothing to do with the Pantera engine
Awesome build, and great commitment to detail. One process I missed hearing about was bolt/fastener prep. Saw the often missed tapping of block bolt holes (really wished to see a tube extension on the blowout ), But noticed many times, a substance added to the bolts before assembly ( no explanation ). There was no mentioning of any thread locker on rod cap nuts and such, possibly not needed in this build or any , but no mention of its omition relevant to this build. Otherwise Very informative. Thanks again, for highlighting that checking and testing makes the build, trusting can be blind faith in building.
We are looking forward to seeing more of the restoration of the Pantera...suspenstion and all of it!
Will be starting reassembly of my 1972 351C 4V this week. So this video is incredibly well timed 👍
Outstanding assembly work! I learned years ago from a shop owner that built tractor pulling motors... An extra hour spent in the assembly details is 3 hours... or more... saved when it's in the car. Great job covering all the details and particulars of Cleveland engine building and performance. Other than cutting the exhaust sides of the heads to raise the exhaust ports and installing plates for better flow, you hit every necessity. Thoroughly enjoyed watching this video!
Thank you Daven for sharing your 'know how' with comprehensible details, 👍
Thanks David. Your knowledge and teaching skills go a long way.❤
It's that special feeling you get when assembling & completing an engine👨🔧
I've got two cleveland V8s in the shed, one 302 and the other is a 351. I cannot wait to start building them after watching this video. Great video with plenty of detail. Thanks!!
Wonder what kinda of power you could expect out of 4v open chamber heads?
While watching Davin I was thing how cool it would have been to see a young guy or gal learning from a good mechanic how to build something with their head and hands. Well, I hope they're out there watching Davin. There's nothing finer that engine run on the stand, when you built that engine.
I enjoyed this video. My first car (bought used in 1977) was a 1971 Grabber Blue Mustang Mach 1 and it had the 351C/FMX drivetrain. I wish I still had that car.
I wish you guys still did the engine overhaul videos. They were mesmerizing videos to watch.
I got a lot of testing tools to get before I can get this 300 straight 6 purrin'. Thanks for bringin' us along.👍👍
The best engine ever made Just don’t go crazy on the fuel cfm 400-500 is good
It will pull a house off the foundation
This is awesome. I’ve never seen such a detailed account of an engine rebuild. I’d never have the skills to do this. And even if I did, my luck I’d get it all done and then forget to fill it with oil.
Incredible work as always from the Hagerty Team ! Thank you all for sharing your journey with us ! Can't wait to see that Pantera running ! Cheers !
Uk guy here. This guy is ace . Its hard to take in some of the American phrases and ways. But after being a mechanic and fabricator for 30 plus years I love this . Keep it up guys and girls. I teach or try to tell the you ones but it's difficult in our throw away society.
You can't educate bacon 🇬🇧 Derbyshire 🙏
Damn, Davin, that engine is gonna sound wicked in that Pantera! Your attention to detail is incredible; then again, you have all the fancy tools! Thanks to Davin and the always excellent Crew!✌️❤️🙂🇨🇦
Had a 351 Cleveland in my 1974 Mercury cougar xr7 and it was fully built and sounded amazing, I only got 7mpg but that was when gas was 88 cents a gallon
My 73' Mach One is @5 mpg and I run 93 octane ethanol free. I don't go far from home!
@@TheBandit7613 haha 😂, buy extra gas in winter when its cheaper and store for summer
Watching these videos makes me appreciate my classics even more seeing all the internals their functions and how it all comes together to make this grown man smile when my foot is on the gas
I have watched all three videos in this series, and I am very satisfied with the engine rebuild. I have learned so much, but I will never use it - too old now. Thank you for taking the time to produce this series for all of us shade tree mechanics and wannabes.
Fascinating. I didn't have the faintest idea what you were doing half the time but still fascinating.
Holy smokes, that sounds good! Can't wait to see it back in the car. Keep up the good work, Daven.
Thank you for being a fan!
Just amazing. Enough said. Great job.
Nice work. Large capacity oil pans are most often run on Panteras to assist with cooling. Not to prevent oil starvation. So fill 'er all the way up!
I own a 351 Cleveland. Here in Australia they are the more common Ford V8. Most I have done myself is install a new set of hydraulic lifters on my flat tappet camshaft. I have the same style adjustable roller rockes. The factory worshop manual shows the adjustment of the clearances using only three positions of the crankshaft. My pulley bolt was difficult to access in the car so i used a remote starter to bump the engine over. I really hope i did it right.
Notice the GF embossed on the top of block ? ( Geelong Foundry)
I've been dreaming about this episode soo addicted😍😍😍
Thanks Hagerty, Special Thanks to Davin & Tom, you guy's are Awesome👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I have to tell you that is an art. It takes an exteem skill to put something like this together.
Enjoyed every second of this video. Making something alive...perfection.
U r an engine scientist good job
When filing the rings, do the second compression rings first. A slightly oversize gap(mistake) on the second compression is not usually a problem. The best way, in my opinion, is to practice with a few of the old rings.
Looking forward to seeing it put back into the Pantera!
Watching you with the speed wrench chasing threads just reminds me of my dad! Be prepared or prepare to fail. I tended to use a ratchet first then use the drill my dad hated it 😂 love watching your vids! It just reminds me of my dad very knowledgeable!
Just caught your show on Hagerty. Pretty nice, but I would like to point out a couple of things regarding Roller Cam Valve Train Components especially the valve to piston clearance. On your show it showed you claying the piston in the center of the valve pocket instead of on the edge where the valve will intersect the piston. Also most of us use the Dial Indicator method checking clearance at 10 degrees before and 10 degrees after TDC when the Camshaft is on Lobe Separation Cycle when both valves are open equally.
The only other thing I would like to say is that I'm more into Mopar and BBC but on all Roller Cams that I deal with it's SO important to center the Lobe in the Lifter Bore and set the End play of the Cam which was NOT mentioned in your video. Also Indexing the piston rings was not mentioned. Important info for beginners. Enjoyed your videos. Keep it real.
Just a shear pleasure to watch. Brings me back to my automotive school days. Please don’t ever stop making content!
Excellent video, great breakdown and step by step guide. Thank you Davin and team!
Davin that was so cool the method to calibrate the TDC lobe separation (110 degree), That was so cool and fascinating. Thank you for taking the time to show us. Way more into the requirements than i would have thought. Thanks, Cheers
Perfection is achieved by paying attention to the slightest of details during the assembly process. This is a good example and you did an excellent job. There’s one thing that I might have missed during the bottom end assembly. Did you check the crankshaft end play ? The thrust clearance should always be verified. After you got the distributor phased correctly, the Cleveland fired right up and sounded good. Well done ! 🏁
Remflex gaskets took care of my turbo Buick for a long time with no issues. But new engine build I won’t need them. Looks great!
Great video! This validates the engine builds that I’ve done. 2 items: I use 2 pieces of vacuum tubing on the connecting rod bolts during assembly to protect the crank, and 2 the oil clearance setting on the mains seemed to be exceeded with the amount of assembly lube. Keep the great content coming!
Watching because I've built and broken a bunch of 351Cs - but you can always learn something. I'm about to put the upgraded race 351c engine back in the car for the 2024 racing season. Enjoy these videos - solid info, good presentation, educational. A#1. Thanks for sharing this. And yea, remind the guys in the shop that Ford #1 is front right. 🤦♂️
The best engine build video I have seen!
Do you ever use plasti gauge to test the clearance of rods and mains?
And, please tell us what prelub you use for the maind, cam and rods?
So many great details and information like checking the ring gaps, excellent primer.
The push rod length makes a lot of sense as well.
Thank you!
Your videos are awesome and watching these motors come together with all of these new parts and hearing it run for the first time is great!! Thanks for another great video!!
Good stuff & I did my 1st break in a few months back. Man that feeling is to die for ! I enjoyed seeing what into building mine here. Thanks for the knowledge "351c" 👌
Thanks to you guys for these red-line rebuild series, great presentation and hats off to the editing crew to mix it with time laps. Definitely look forward to the next one 😊
Nice build! Your attention to detail is incredible. No need to lap valves anymore? Fire in the hole! I hate it when it's 180 out. Thanks for doing what you do.
That was a fantastic video, well worth a watch, so much knowledge and so well put together. My hats off to you and your team 🍻
Good job buddy, thanks for showing the lifter bushes installation, i've read about this for years but never seen a vid on installing them, i nearly ordered these for my build, but the cost was too high with the oz $. another Cleveland lives !
The inner spring is setting on the guide boss, it will affect coil bind and spring pressure, also the outer spring needs something to locate on so 8t does not walk.
What a fantastically complicated motor. I'm so impressed. Thank you so much for sharing this.
Complicated? Sarcasm?
I find it amazing how GM Gen V head intake ports closely resemble those Ford 351C intake ports
LS Ive done cam bearings from the front a few times. it has 2 pair and a single. 73 351c Im doing. I tried to do that front bearing with 2 holes from the front. I was extra careful and tried to go super easy. Its sitting on a work cart now off the stand and my new bearing set came in at 7:30am. Id like to get these done and throw that tool away for good. I will never try a set again without having 2 sets for emergencies so I can take a full set back when Im done.
Great timing, just happen to be assembling a 1970 351C 4V (now Boss plus) in my shop. Installing cam bearings today and cutting core/freeze plug holes for pipe plugs. 1 1/4 inch size. No leaks here. Recently installed a 302 cam that the cam card firing order was different than the cam was ground on. Stamped numbers matched the cam card. Cam Co. offered to replace the cam, but by the time I tried dozen restarts, cam flat. Using #1 to check cam timing will not tell you this!
Pantera Cleavland uses the Australian cast 4 bolt blocks. Those engine blocks are very desirable.
I was looking for this comment
Ford sent the tooling to Oz in 1972, they were made in late 73 on from memory.
@@Gokizzmass1971 was the first year for 302 Cleveland and 351 Cleveland in Australia, Cast at the Geelong Casting Centre, Victoria, Australia, last Australian 302/351 was put in 1986 model Australian F100 to F350s and 1983/4 in Falcons, Fairlanes and LTDs .
@@JosephCowen-fz8vj no, the first 302c was in the XA falcon, i'm sure, so it's at least 72.
@@Gokizzmass there is a famous picture of the first 302 /351 C off the Geelong Casting Centre line in February 1971 it's on the official ford website .
Always nice to watch a pro in action 💪
I love the attention to details. Close to perfection!
Truly a master at work. Always satisfying to watch work.
Using your hands is half the fun😜 that ring machine I've never seen, I've always used a file!
Great Video!!! Thank you soooo much for all the details you included in this build video. I really appreciate knowing all the spec stuff. I like the time lapse stuff but I like to learn a lot too. Good builds are always made in the details. Very pretty motor by the way. Sounds good too!
Simple things like the dots on the rings were a nice touch by the ring manufacturer to ensure the correct fitment of them.
Thank you for the videos. Great assembly. And big bonus for nailing the timing first try.
Have to disagree on the exhaust gaskets; the Felpro are the only ones I've had hold up long term. You do have to re-torque them a couple of times after first start up, after that they're fine.
You went over and above precision on this build. There's no way it had that from the factory. Checking ring gaps, and valve spring heights/pressures just wasn't done. It should stand the test of time now in comparison to how it was originally made. Great job as always to everyone involved in these videos.❤
I have been missing the Redline Rebuild videos. Thanks for providing my fix!
What a radical engine I’ve only seen 1 in my life in a 71 Mach that rusted away in the grass .
Please mention the #1 cam bearing gets set back .003-.005" from flush in front. Also, the oil pump drive shaft has a star retaining washer, there to help keep the distributor from pulling the shaft out of the pump. For a stock'ish engine I like to see fully grooved main bearings to protect the #2#7 rod bearings, a-la Boss 351. For engines seeing >6,250 RPM an aftermarket crank with corrected oil hole timing is pert-near required.
Hello David, you have an outstanding video! I have two stupid question(s). #1; it appears to me that you painted the engine valley with what appears to be red oxide, and if so, why? If you did so please tell me what brand that you used. #2; it appears to me that the piston skirt(s) are Teflon impregnated, and if not, please tell me what substance is used. And by the way, the oil pump, distributor shaft and the distributor rotate counter clockwise on all Ford V8s. Please reply and tell me what you think. Dave...
Davin thank you for showing the “how to” on the cam timing. I downloaded this video because of the expertise of your work👍
Is there a dyno rating video of this engine?
Or did the customer request it be propriety?
Thanks for this series👏👍🏁🇺🇸
Not a clue what he did but absolutely fascinating to watch. Genius.
Had very few tech teachers like you. Learned a tremendous amount. Make sure eye protection when using air pressure. Can't see if no eyes and then all those fancy gauges are useless.
Beautiful build, very detailed. Have you ever considered a light skim of flange sealer or Three Bond at the parting line of the rear main cap? Like just behind the main bolt area? Maybe overkill but would help prevent that little “seepage” that seems to happen there. Okay, okay I’ll get back in the shop and do my work 😂
Thanks so much for taking us down this road with you. Answers the question “how hard could it be?”
I would have liked to see you talk about 351C specifics while doing this. Such as the thermostat. Most parts store and online parts places (yes, even rock auto) will sell you the wrong thermostat for a 351C. The cleveland ones need to have the little hat that mates to the copper ring in the block. If you just get the one rockauto or autozone's computer says you need, you will have overheating as the water continuously circulates in the engine and never makes it to the radiator.
And it looked like you omitted the oil slinger under the timing cover. Maybe to make room for a double roller?
at 23 : 52 timestamp something is slid onto the crank ; oil slinger maybe ?
@@44special9 I believe you are correct. The oil slinger is there when the timing cover went on. You have to really be looking for it.
I have been wanting to see how someone builds an engine. Amazing.
Nice and educational video . I liked the most the fact that at certain point in the build the oil lubrication was tested on the heads . Very wise . Is that also possible in any way for the lubrication on the lower parts like the crank ( i suppose not) ?
Open or closed chamber doesn't move the face depth of the valve, so it will not affect ptv. (In all the head's we have checked)
Such a cool entry from the Ford Motor Company. I only ever had an old, tired Windsor in a 75 Ranchero GT. She was more bondo than car but I loved her all the same
@@Look_What_You_Did it's something I got from my dad. Trucks r boys, cars are girls. Wait, it was both...
Thank you for sharing, always a pleasure watch your project and I learn a lot 👍👍👍👍
Another high quality redline video, keep em coming!
Its a pleasure watching your videos, Im amazed at your knowledge, thank you...
very good video and waiting for the Time Laps they are so much fum to watch
Thank You
The timing process confesses me every time.
Another great video and teaching opportunity. Well done Davin and crew!
Fantastic build, can't wait to see the final product.
I have a 351c 4v from early 70s .Use to be in my dads engine they were in his 69 Cougar before he went back to a built 390. Fresh rebuild less then 5,000 miles on it .030 over. Been sitting in plastic for 10+ years. I plan on getting a adapter to go with a 6r80 and a quick shift controller installing in a 2012 mustang. I Plan on using a sniper efi, I just got to make a decision of leaving the engine alone or pull the 4v heads and switch to something aluminum.
@@Look_What_You_Didbecause? Facts, not sound bites...
We used to take a piston, put two wristpins in it, and use that to set the rings in the bore for gapping them. I always liked that hack.
What ? I’m confused.
@@ricardofierro7041 He butted two wrist pins together in a piston (half out each side) to serve as a positive stop, so the rings always sit in the bore at the same depth for checking.
nice job ,sounds awesome thanks for teaching us by doing it before our eyes.
Your videos have convinced me to take on my first engine build project. It would be awesome if you covered the full break in process / testing process.