@@burtsegal3612 lol download an adblocker if youre gonna be such a bitch about ads, maybe consider supporting the content creator by actually watching the ad (or skipping)
A pro tip from somebody who built VW engines for a living. Go ahead and drop in the distributor drive gear with the washers and the spring. Install the distributor clamp and distributor. Point the rotor towards cylinder #1, and when you drop the crank in, hold the #1 rod all the way out. Now you're timed and don't have to worry about dropping one of those little drive gear shims down your brand new motor. Another thing I didn't see you do. Checking lifter to case clearance at full lift. I've had to clearance the lifter bore face on even some fairly mild cams. Great video! Keep it up!
The first engine I ever built with a CB Aluminum Super Case I had to rifle brush all of the oil passages because of casting sand that was present. I also de-bubrred the entire inside of the block. Lot's of sand in there as well. Strong blocks though. My 1st engine was a 2276 (Chevy journals, H beams, Round ports and their turbo cam) single 48 Dell with their turbo header and a Spa turbo. It went into my 67 Beetle. The car lifted the wheels off the ground in 2nd gear (M & H Street slicks as well). Cool video.
This brought back memories from my earlier days. I owned several busses and bugs when I was younger. 1971 Westy, 1971 9 passenger bus, 1964 Barn door, 1956 bug, 1965 bug, 1969 bug. I’ve rebuilt every one of those engines (some a couple of times). My first car when I was 18 was the 1956 bug which I had to rebuild the engine to make it usable. I made many mistakes but in the end everything worked out. I used it until I was drafted then my parents sold it because they thought I was killed because I didn’t write home for two years.
My brother was owner of a Porsche/VW shop for 35 years. He was a fanatic when it came to rebuilds regarding the oil flow issue. While the mismatch was good enough, he felt that in an air-cooled engine, oil flow is everything. The more free the flow, the longer the engine will last - especially in hot weather environments. It explains why the GM smallblock was so long lived: Good oil flow.
I drove VW vans for 10 years....building motor from old junk and what ever new parts that I could afford....taught myself mostly....this video would have been of help.....Thanks guys...I love this stuff.
I agree! It is originaly designed too work under the principle of Bernoulli. When it;s cold, the oil pressure is higher, as the case warms up. the oil will now flow smoother.
Had to chuckle.. at 23:45.. I never bought those clips.. early on in building I needed a pair, meant to get em before starting.. 3 day weekend and I wasn't going anywhere. Robbed a wire hanger from the closet, wrapped it around a socket twice, bent the ends to fit the job.. been in my engine box some 30 some odd years. Last used was about 3 or 4 years now. Not perfect but they work!
I've never put sealant under the main case studs on a shuffle pinned case. The shuffle pins seal plenty tight enough to keep any oil from creeping up the studs. ALWAYS use a torque plate to press the cylinder tight to the case when checking deck height. If you don't you won't know the true deck and can end up too tight. I only use about half the amount of sealant you do on the cam plugs. The main problem is if you plug up the little oil return galley when the excess silicone squeezes into it, you have an oil leak from the cam plug (ask me how I know) As said before there is a lot of work to do inside stroker relieved cases. You really have to sand down all the sharp edges left by the CNC mill to eliminate any stress risers where cracks can start to form. it can take a couple of hours to do it, but well worth the effort. Great video and commentary!!
bullet proof vw engine.. never heard of such a thing before.. Nice little toy motor.. we like the old corvair and porche engines better back in the day.. But vw's were all one day builds and always fun and not as complicated as some of them old v-8's we used to do.. Well thanks fellas this was a great walk down memory lane for me.. You did right by that motor and she should work like a champ for you.. I will have to search out the rest of the video's to see how she preforms.. carry on!
Yeah unfortunately today because of the age of the parts and things like the carburetor it's not so much a one day build anymore cuz there's lots of little things to fix and lots of things to modify because the parts aren't the same it's not just a bowl together like it used to be back in the day
@@Mikefngarage I could see that form the great video.. But then we didn't much care.. if it ran good and could take the pounding of the sand dunes for a month that was good enough.. sand was always getting into them any way.. so there was no need to be real specific in the build I am hung up on these videos..I think I may even watch them again.. thanks brother.. carry on!
We've watched every video @vwdarrin @ezgz have posted in the past and I couldn't thank the lord enough for those two gentlemen including you for all the time/effort/sharing information into building a strong Vw motor!!
Thanks for a great video, Mike. Many good pointers in these. A couple of points, if I may... On relieving the main bearings with a rotary burr... Maybe it would be better to find alternative location for performing this operation? Would save the filings from falling into the open engine case directly below. Relieving the oil grooves in bearings increases oilflow volume. Oil pressure on the other hand is created by tolerances between the crank and bearings. Granted, volume also does play its part, to an extent. I did not see the crankshaft oil slinger being installed? Did I manage to miss that part? While some engines, often those for sand rails, do not use them, surely it would be better to install one, than leave it out.? Waiting for more on this build. Cheers from a European born eng.D living out his retirement years in Indonesia.
here In australia I love all you Guys in America Who Share your Experience , Defently Fewer and farther around here , Cool Thanks for the Vids Ive been watching them all great Resorce
These are great. Makes me want to re re-build mine. I hope you keep giving us all the tips and secrets you don't find in the books. (even if you think you are repeating yourself)
yea after you drive it original you might want to build one of these but do the trans at the same time.Keep an eye out on the samba for a big nut trans in your area to have rebuilt. that way you can keep the original drive train and upgrade it all at once.
They have tight clearances--not tolerances.The tolerance is a +/- figure the manufacturer selects component dimensions to.The finer the tolerance the more accurate the fit whether it is a clearance fit, free fit or interference fit.Bearing manufacturers for example grade their products according to how they pass the tolerance inspections and the finer tolerance products ( with a suffix in their part number) are a lot dearer and used in aerospace jobs etc.
Great video! .058" deck height seems pretty good to me. I generally run my high performance engines between .045 and .060". Remember that the head gasket will add deck height. Terrific build. Thanks!
On aluminum cases I drill, tap and throughly rifle brush every oil passage. Because they are sand cast, you can have casting remnants that ruin brand new bearings. I made 275 hp on 7 psi with a spal T3 Garrett blowing thru a single 48 Dell. It was a 2276 on CB round ports. Love those blocks.
I built a lot of VW engines and I got to the point that I helicoiled every stud.....it made your torque reading trustworthy and the studs didn't pull when we really leaned on these engines and got them hot. Yamaha makes an excellent grey sealant that they use on 2-stroke engine case mating surfaces....I found it to be excellent for mating VW cases. If in doubt, I line-bored the engine cases.....German engineering is not always German engineering, if you know what I mean. Also went with remote oil cooler as the old ones cannot be cleaned and they stood in the air flow of the #3 cylinder and made it run hot....this was corrected in later engines when the put the oil cooler in a "dog house" on the back of the shroud. I did not like the advance curve of vacuum advance distributors and went with an 009 or 013 mechanical advance. Don't EVER cheap out on oversize cylinders......Mahle or some other forged slug and barrel are well worth the money and will take a hell of a beating. VW exhaust valves are prone to "losing their heads", literally, and when that happens, it's engine city.....always throw in new valves....cheap insurance. I've forgotten so much..... Hope that was helpful in some small way. Keep the Faith and learn how to swear in VW.
Nice job dremmelling the bearrings next to the unbuilt short block dropping pieces of bearing material all over the place.Hope the block is cleaned before final assembly.Cleanliness is key.
Thanks for sharing this information. I just want to be able to fix anything that can go wrong. It makes sense to me to start with a new aluminum case and go on from there.
use a hot plate and a bread loaf pan. put engine oil in the bread loaf pan. Put your bearings or gears or sleeves into it and heat them up that way. A large improvement over using just a hot plate because it will help pre lube the parts too. I usually set the heat to about 300 degrees. just short of smoking. Has worked wonders for about 60 years. Try it you will like it
Would have liked more detail on brand/choice of case, mods it has to allow use of stroker crank and rods... curious you said you were installing case savers after assembly ? Wouldn't it be easier to install them before final ass'y so you can be sure of fit and removal of any of installation residue from tapping ?
yea dont knock it if it works. I really like the yamabond or honda bond stuff. We switched in the 80s and less problems. But Permatex also works great.
After I have torqued the case down I let it set for at least a day then torque it again. Then continue with the build and after torquing the heads I also let it set at least a day and torque again. Often you do get a little more movement. Metal moves, specially aluminum. Can't get to the case nuts after the heads go on. Adds a little more time to the build but I feel better.
17:30 They reduced the amount of ZDDP in STP to the point it's not really any better than plain oil. Don't use it hoping it will save your cam. Lucas break in oil is a much better choice.
Couple of things, Watching you using a die grinder on the back of the main bearing made me cringe, metal shavings flying everywhere right next to an open engine, not good. If you are going to grind something, that engine should be bagged and parts on the work bench covered. Better yet, do it somewhere else, way away from your engine assembly. Get bearings that fit properly, maybe another brand. Bead blasting precision gears is a bad idea, clean by hand with brake clean and scotchbrite. Noticed the drive mating gear wasn't cleaned either. I was surprised to see what looked like steel galley plugs, go with aluminum, less weight and much easier to remove next time around. I do enjoy seeing a VW engine and how it's assembled, getting ready to build one for a dune buggy. I'm retired after 40 years of building Ferrari engines, there are 3 things to remember when assembling an engine of any kind, clean, clean and clean !!! Sorry for the bother, continue on please...
Aircraft mechanic here agreeing with you. Also gears handled with pump pliers, wrong tools used for snap rings, many things hammered in place. Not optimal.
@@rogeeeferrari Thank you I don't build engines but Attention to detail is everything in racing be it cars, airplanes, boats. What stories you must have Roger. You in Dallas?
@@waveman2952 After 40 years in the Ferrari business in SoCal I bought a house in Arizona and retired, currently floating in the pool every day. Oh yes, stories a plenty !!
When you put the first gear into the crankshaft is there a certain way to put it, i know that the marking with the dot goes up but how does the timing work i dint see any marking or a guide for the gear to go an exact way into the crank
Do you guys use the oil splash plate on the nose of the engine? I know I have seen then on stock engines. it helps keep the oil in the case along with the reverse cut groves on the pulley.
You let bearing filings fall into the engine block when demonstrating how to fix bearing hole misalignment to the block. You need to blowout everything clean again. Correct?
Hey I like that you want everything to be very clean, super important! Not sure why you ground the notch in the bearing and had the grindings dump all over the open case... I hope you went over it with a vacuum to get the metal chips. Good video though, thanks!
Thanks for the video, thoroughly enjoyed it and thank you for posting. I'm sure y'all caught this, but just something that caught my eye at minute 28:00 I noticed the little arrow that is on the piston is supposed to be pointing towards the flywheel, not the. pulley. It may not make any difference at all, I just remember a German guy used to always tell me that. Excellent video, thank you again for posting it. Everything looks great! You guys are awesome
i always use Permatex aircraft Black for sealant . Never had a leak , knock on Magnesium. Well, i sometime use spray Red for holding a gasket in place but for no gasket it has to be Aircraft grade Permatex.
Me early 80's had a choice fly to Nellis AFB or get 1200 dollars to drive. I bought a 300 dollar 70 bug and drove from Tyndall AFB to Nellis AFB with a sleep over in Galveston TX . No radio a cooler of beer and mountain dew sitting in the passenger seat seeing Phoenix at night and crossing Hover dam at sunrise was memorable only issue was an unknown power loss going up the from the dam held it to the floor cough sputter off I went. No idea how many miles set of floor pans, 009 distributor tried different carb setups settled on a 40mm Weber dlf with intake through the boot .Who needs heat or air in Florida my wife's first vehicle was a vanagon with air 300,000 miles including 3 years of exploring Colorado, a queen mattress fit perfect
after owning a VW shop for fifteen years and a wholesale engine business for ten years before that, between myself and my partner we built four thousand engines, two things, you didn't check the lash on your cam gear and you should have installed the distributor drive, also I didn't hear if you were using a stock cam grind but if not you should check for clearance between lifter bore and lifter at max lift.
we did check the lash on the cam gear just didnt show it probably or maybe you didnt see that we did. those aluminum cases are designed for larger cams. But thanks for the comment. for sure those things are important. ON another build we found the cam gear was too tight. so we switched it out with another .
Those are to relieve crank case pressure. When one piston comes down the air inside of the piston pushes downward and transfers the air to the other piston beside it as it goes up. Racers trick.
@@ronwoods7928 Presumably because T1 cases don't have the enlarged breather holes between the journals like the wbx engines have. I wonder if the aluminum cases are the same.
I really enjoyed watching this, lots of great info. I have a quick comment though, at 3:03 you are test fitting bearings, I have had rod oil starvation issues with using a late T1 crossdrilled crank center main bearing on a stroker straight drilled crank,.especially at higher rpms
vw type4 and older type1 had the oil feed groove against the crank journal, when vw started using crossdrilled cranks they put a large scoop on the crank and moved the oil feed groove to the case side. Here is a neat thread on the subject: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/index.php/o-t--t-499960--.html
I think that applied to the stock cranks they were making into stroker cranks many years ago. these cranks I f you noticed the holes we put plugs in have galleys that transfer the oil to the rods. Seems like a different system. We havent had any issues with them just horse power limits for the quality of steel. I wont be near that limit. so it will be fine.
Thanks for this video. I have built these engines before, but not for a long time, and this was very helpful. Two thoughts about method please. 1) Do yourself a favor and do not let carb cleaner and/or brake cleaner get all over your hands. These solvents are carcinogens, and a small but still significant amount will pass through your skin. Sure you can get away with this for a while, and I used to do it too, but as a routine practice it is not a good idea. Get a box of rubber gloves. 2) Using a hand-held milling tool near an open engine can easily cause chips to settle inside the new engine. I realize that this was a demo, but best practice is to go into the next room if you are making chips and have an engine open. Otherwise great video. Really nicely done, and thanks for taking the time to do this for us all.
Mike do you plastic gage the rod and mains to check for .002 clearance ?? Never knew the issue about bearing oil grooves not matching up thanks for sharing that info.. also on the rods most of my rebuilds have be stock motors and rods.. Years ago when i work in a auto machine shop we used a 50/50 mix of STP and motor oil, but like my son always tells me , " dad that was way back in the olden days " ..Back in them olden days, I would micro polish the cramk in our crank grinder and refurbish or check the rods on on sun hone rod conditioner then plastic gage fit-up funny thing back in late 60s early 70's i would do a three angle grind on the heads , even set of v8 's as standard valve job, now you pay extra.. Installing new seats in a vw head; I put the vw head in our lunch break room oven, then put the chromoly seat in a small can & chill it with freon a little green loctitie after cooling it will never come out. Great how to info Mike on building the lower end.
we dont use plastigage more for used parts rebuild. Even that We do by feel. just gotta know what it feels like when it is oiled and fitting correctly.
I’ve built some VW motors, I’ve never had bearings that didn’t line up with the oil holes. And the bearings having spurs on the edges? What brand of bearings are those? I will try to avoid them. Lol
in your comparing the factory rods to the forged isent mounting the con rod with the old hole on the pin going to face down instead of up where it collects oil rather than it pouring out of the pin ?how else would the pin get oil?
I bought a 1973 bay last summer , it runs great and pulls pretty well compared to the 1600 I’ve had before , it has electronic ignition but how do I tell if it’s a 1641 cc or similar upgrade ?.
I put together a 2276 fuel injected turbocharged Alumimum 82mm stroked water inter cooled engine it’s been a long time since I played with a Vw so far I got 241 hp with 198 ft lbs of torture the next pull on the engine dyno at 8300 rpm the fan rubbed the shroud so that was the end of the dyno so far I really wished I’d found a good video like yours because well it runs so far at 104 degrees ambient the intake temp was 140 degrees when I turned the water pump on for the water inter cooler the intake ended up at 80 degrees with ice water hopefully I end up between 375-400 hp without scattering it parts except the inter cooler set up were CB performance props to them by the way I didn’t catch your stroke or boor but I had a lot of problems with the tins fitting with out beating the crap out of them so please take a little extra time on what tins you use if not stock ones thanks and props to you guys don’t remember what the cam was I think like 105 lift with the 3:1 billet roller rockers hopefully I end up with a hellcat eater 😎
where did you buy this aluminum case? Or did you modify it yourself with the long bolts instead of shuffle pins. the websites I viewed had aluminum engines but the short shuffle pins. I like your idea of tightening up the block. I like the way you made the oil opening wider on the main bearing to give more oil pressure. thanks
AA sells this case. I am not sure but most of them should be the same casting. They might all have the shuffle pins. I would check if carcraft sells this one or if the empi one has the shuffle pins. IF it does I would bet they are the same casting.
I'm surprised you oil the rod cap bolts because this changes the torque spec. Since the bolt has less friction the same torque as a dry bolt will result in putting more tensile load on the lined bolt. Do you use lower torque on the lined bolts. Eric
Where do I see the prices for your motor I'm going to be building a (63 bug and I want it to do 75 down the highway with no problem and I want it fast in the city
I'm doing a teardown of a near new 1776 for a buddy. He had it build at a shop and it seized within 10 miles. The first thing I noticed was a ton of silicone squeezed out around the oil pump, and as you can imagine it squeezed a bunch inward as well, and I suspect that's the cause of the seizure. The story is that his friend drove it around the block a couple times and parked it, when he went to start it a few days later it wouldn't turn. My guess/hope is that when it was warm it was turning freely and locked up after it cooled down, and hopefully there's minimal damage. In my first stage of teardown I found that there was oil leaking onto the flywheel's clutch surface and the crank bolt was barely tightened, I hope the internals weren't assembled with the same level of incompetence.
Hey thanks darrin. LIke to see some motor builds from you too. Plugged you in some of these builds.So people can see other opinions of how to do their own. So far we are the only ones doing much tech stuff. There are many guys better than me at this but like my teacher said many years ago. I teach what I know and some of you guys are going to be better then me at this. I just do the best I can do.
?? Do you have to CC the heads if it is a stock engine, like a 40 Hp ? I hate to assume details don't matter, as engine building education is expensive.
Sorry iPhone mistake: I meant connecting rod. I’d like to know the lower bearing diameter and the length of top to lower bearing c/c and the stroke of the old VW engine. If you can let me know I Thanks in advance. Great show that’s why I subscribed too.
Love the videos. Bit confusing when you say 'red locktite' when you are using permatex thread locker. Actual Locktite Colours are blue (high strength) and pink (low strength)
A tip....if you don't have the actual clip tool to keep the lifters in place when mating the case halves....you can use regular old spring loaded clothespins...They work just fine.
I havent built off of one of those. They look really stout. Honestly I dont think for most street engines it would really matter. Autolinia makes a great case. there are some issues here and there that I think they have worked out. CB takes Autolinia and machines them up a bit to make them right all the time. But I go for lower cost and get them locally for a few hundred less. Any aluminum case outperforms the Mag original they all have shuffle pins on the mains. and are large crank Ready. It just depends on your budget and how much HP your trying to put out. I made this engine for bulletproof. with low cost parts that work good. Not thinking about the highest HP I could get.
A trick i learned from a friend who builds aircraft engine's after you put the brush on sealer on case halves lay a strand of silk thread on the sealer all the way around the case half. After its torqued the silk thread will compress and that engine will never leak at the halves. He does the same with the oil pump before setting it in place except he uses oil to hold the thread. I have never seen one leak with silk thread.
When you both the cases together you should either use the stuff they use for aluminum transmission cases or aircraft stuff personally we use the aviation permatex you have to mix the bottle of real good when you get a new bottle and mix it up before you use it bulletproof silicone connection I don't know if this is the right word but HZ metal edges because of the chemicals in the silicon not good for aluminum and magnesium
standard stroke of a vw is 69mm this one is 78mm. so it has a different crankshaft. also it has larger pistons stock is 85.5 mm and this one is 90.5 stock is a 1600 this one is 2007. still a pretty bullet proof motor and a bit more power and torque.
check Brothers machine shop I dont do engines for other people. They have decent prices and excellent. work. make sure to go with the thick wall pistons. But if it were me I would go 1968 instead. that is a 74 stroker just about the same bullet proof more power and similar cost.
all machine work is on the case how you order it. I got mine set up for the cylinders I chose which was 90.5. Updated with shuffle pins and case savers. out of the box ready for assembliy after cleaning.
Yamabond isn't ONLY for Yamaha's. It's for any case, especially aluminum that is vertically split & has oil contained in it - which the VW does. I think Permatex now has a replacement for the Yamabond that is also grey. I don't remember the name of it off hand.
your comments are greatly appreciated. thanks for watching.
@@burtsegal3612 lol download an adblocker if youre gonna be such a bitch about ads, maybe consider supporting the content creator by actually watching the ad (or skipping)
that is how my channel is supported. as all channels are. It cost money and time to make videos.
@@burtsegal3612 Ads are how the channel makes money. It's part of his living.
@@burtsegal3612 sorry man I have no control over the ads. That is how youtube and I get paid. Otherwise these videos would not exist.
@@sumofl Thanks makeing these videos does cost money. Nothing is free. Thanks for the backup.
A pro tip from somebody who built VW engines for a living. Go ahead and drop in the distributor drive gear with the washers and the spring. Install the distributor clamp and distributor. Point the rotor towards cylinder #1, and when you drop the crank in, hold the #1 rod all the way out. Now you're timed and don't have to worry about dropping one of those little drive gear shims down your brand new motor. Another thing I didn't see you do. Checking lifter to case clearance at full lift. I've had to clearance the lifter bore face on even some fairly mild cams. Great video! Keep it up!
good info on that. need to have the distributor in there so you dont strip the brass gear we usually put a dummy in there so it wont drop out.
Surprised that you drimmled that bearing right next to the case.
The first engine I ever built with a CB Aluminum Super Case I had to rifle brush all of the oil passages because of casting sand that was present. I also de-bubrred the entire inside of the block. Lot's of sand in there as well. Strong blocks though. My 1st engine was a 2276 (Chevy journals, H beams, Round ports and their turbo cam) single 48 Dell with their turbo header and a Spa turbo. It went into my 67 Beetle. The car lifted the wheels off the ground in 2nd gear (M & H Street slicks as well). Cool video.
I think you guys are working on a fine piece of jewelry the way you take care of every aspect of your engine build.
Thank you!
This brought back memories from my earlier days. I owned several busses and bugs when I was younger. 1971 Westy, 1971 9 passenger bus, 1964 Barn door, 1956 bug, 1965 bug, 1969 bug. I’ve rebuilt every one of those engines (some a couple of times). My first car when I was 18 was the 1956 bug which I had to rebuild the engine to make it usable. I made many mistakes but in the end everything worked out. I used it until I was drafted then my parents sold it because they thought I was killed because I didn’t write home for two years.
My brother was owner of a Porsche/VW shop for 35 years. He was a fanatic when it came to rebuilds regarding the oil flow issue. While the mismatch was good enough, he felt that in an air-cooled engine, oil flow is everything. The more free the flow, the longer the engine will last - especially in hot weather environments. It explains why the GM smallblock was so long lived: Good oil flow.
I am a practitioner of the Gene Berg methods. This the most correct method of engine assembly I’ve seen on RUclips.
thanks man appreciate it.
I drove VW vans for 10 years....building motor from old junk and what ever new parts that I could afford....taught myself mostly....this video would have been of help.....Thanks guys...I love this stuff.
This is the most well detailed and informative how to video that I have seen on you tube ever. Thank you so much
I built a 2007cc a few years ago.
IDF 40's with 32 vents, C25 cam etc.
Runs very good from off idle to 5k rpm. :)
Grooving the backside of the main bearings will not increase oil pressure...but it will increase the oil flow.
I agree! It is originaly designed too work under the principle of Bernoulli. When it;s cold, the oil pressure is higher, as the case warms up. the oil will now flow smoother.
Had to chuckle.. at 23:45.. I never bought those clips.. early on in building I needed a pair, meant to get em before starting.. 3 day weekend and I wasn't going anywhere. Robbed a wire hanger from the closet, wrapped it around a socket twice, bent the ends to fit the job.. been in my engine box some 30 some odd years. Last used was about 3 or 4 years now. Not perfect but they work!
I've never put sealant under the main case studs on a shuffle pinned case. The shuffle pins seal plenty tight enough to keep any oil from creeping up the studs.
ALWAYS use a torque plate to press the cylinder tight to the case when checking deck height. If you don't you won't know the true deck and can end up too tight.
I only use about half the amount of sealant you do on the cam plugs. The main problem is if you plug up the little oil return galley when the excess silicone squeezes into it, you have an oil leak from the cam plug (ask me how I know)
As said before there is a lot of work to do inside stroker relieved cases. You really have to sand down all the sharp edges left by the CNC mill to eliminate any stress risers where cracks can start to form. it can take a couple of hours to do it, but well worth the effort.
Great video and commentary!!
bullet proof vw engine.. never heard of such a thing before.. Nice little toy motor.. we like the old corvair and porche engines better back in the day.. But vw's were all one day builds and always fun and not as complicated as some of them old v-8's we used to do.. Well thanks fellas this was a great walk down memory lane for me.. You did right by that motor and she should work like a champ for you.. I will have to search out the rest of the video's to see how she preforms.. carry on!
Yeah unfortunately today because of the age of the parts and things like the carburetor it's not so much a one day build anymore cuz there's lots of little things to fix and lots of things to modify because the parts aren't the same it's not just a bowl together like it used to be back in the day
@@Mikefngarage I could see that form the great video.. But then we didn't much care.. if it ran good and could take the pounding of the sand dunes for a month that was good enough.. sand was always getting into them any way.. so there was no need to be real specific in the build I am hung up on these videos..I think I may even watch them again.. thanks brother.. carry on!
Such a great engine design.
No wonder that they still remain popular.
We've watched every video @vwdarrin @ezgz have posted in the past and I couldn't thank the lord enough for those two gentlemen including you for all the time/effort/sharing information into building a strong Vw motor!!
yea they both do a great job. Hoping guys who are rural can learn enough from all of us to do their own in a rural area.
Brother's machine shop is awesome.
They know their stuff and go the extra mile.
Brother's Machine shop
743 E Francis St, Ontario, CA 91761
I sent them my stock 72 super beetle engine case for align boring and other work....luv their work!
Thanks for a great video, Mike. Many good pointers in these. A couple of points, if I may... On relieving the main bearings with a rotary burr... Maybe it would be better to find alternative location for performing this operation? Would save the filings from falling into the open engine case directly below. Relieving the oil grooves in bearings increases oilflow volume. Oil pressure on the other hand is created by tolerances between the crank and bearings. Granted, volume also does play its part, to an extent. I did not see the crankshaft oil slinger being installed? Did I manage to miss that part? While some engines, often those for sand rails, do not use them, surely it would be better to install one, than leave it out.? Waiting for more on this build. Cheers from a European born eng.D living out his retirement years in Indonesia.
yea we cleaned all that up off camera no issues there. we installed the oils slinger as well. yea not in this video next one. thanks for watching.
Beat me by 3 years. Well noted.
here In australia I love all you Guys in America Who Share your Experience , Defently Fewer and farther around here , Cool Thanks for the Vids Ive been watching them all great Resorce
Thanks for watching!
These are great. Makes me want to re re-build mine.
I hope you keep giving us all the tips and secrets you don't find in the books. (even if you think you are repeating yourself)
I always enjoyed building those engines... bringing back memories.... good stuff Thanks 😎
This is awesome Mike! I love learning and thank you guys for sharing! Really cool build! Keep them coming brother!
yea after you drive it original you might want to build one of these but do the trans at the same time.Keep an eye out on the samba for a big nut trans in your area to have rebuilt. that way you can keep the original drive train and upgrade it all at once.
Carefully cleans case prior to assembly. Stands next open case to use die grinder on main bearing shell.
Do you balance all conrods,pistons and even crank shaft...? Just asking
They have tight clearances--not tolerances.The tolerance is a +/- figure the manufacturer selects component dimensions to.The finer the tolerance the more accurate the fit whether it is a clearance fit, free fit or interference fit.Bearing manufacturers for example grade their products according to how they pass the tolerance inspections and the finer tolerance products ( with a suffix in their part number) are a lot dearer and used in aerospace jobs etc.
Great video! .058" deck height seems pretty good to me. I generally run my high performance engines between .045 and .060". Remember that the head gasket will add deck height. Terrific build. Thanks!
Good stuff
45 and 60 is my favorite. I dont like going much mr than 60. too much barrel fire. gotta keep it in the head.
On aluminum cases I drill, tap and throughly rifle brush every oil passage. Because they are sand cast, you can have casting remnants that ruin brand new bearings.
I made 275 hp on 7 psi with a spal T3 Garrett blowing thru a single 48 Dell. It was a 2276 on CB round ports. Love those blocks.
nice job on that at 7psi
I built a lot of VW engines and I got to the point that I helicoiled every stud.....it made your torque reading trustworthy and the studs didn't pull when we really leaned on these engines and got them hot. Yamaha makes an excellent grey sealant that they use on 2-stroke engine case mating surfaces....I found it to be excellent for mating VW cases. If in doubt, I line-bored the engine cases.....German engineering is not always German engineering, if you know what I mean. Also went with remote oil cooler as the old ones cannot be cleaned and they stood in the air flow of the #3 cylinder and made it run hot....this was corrected in later engines when the put the oil cooler in a "dog house" on the back of the shroud. I did not like the advance curve of vacuum advance distributors and went with an 009 or 013 mechanical advance. Don't EVER cheap out on oversize cylinders......Mahle or some other forged slug and barrel are well worth the money and will take a hell of a beating. VW exhaust valves are prone to "losing their heads", literally, and when that happens, it's engine city.....always throw in new valves....cheap insurance. I've forgotten so much..... Hope that was helpful in some small way. Keep the Faith and learn how to swear in VW.
i normally use yamabond. That stuff is great. Those aluminum cases are super strong compared to the old mag cases. no case studs pulling on that one.
I like your channel, very informative and re-educational for me for sure.
Nice job dremmelling the bearrings next to the unbuilt short block dropping pieces of bearing material all over the place.Hope the block is cleaned before final assembly.Cleanliness is key.
off camera we were just doing the fitting we cleaned up everything perfect before the actual assembly.
Thanks for sharing this information. I just want to be able to fix anything that can go wrong. It makes sense to me to start with a new aluminum case and go on from there.
Nice bud I hope you turned the piston you put in around with the arrows on top to the flywheel as well as the rest of them. Good luck with build.
yea check got that ha ha.
At 4.:45 Using the Dremel tool right beside the case? I got the impression the case was already cleaned?
no not cleaned yet.
@@Mikefngarage Glad to hear that. But, it does give you more debris to remove.
Had you considered installing piston oiler squirters?
use a hot plate and a bread loaf pan. put engine oil in the bread loaf pan. Put your bearings or gears or sleeves into it and heat them up that way. A large improvement over using just a hot plate because it will help pre lube the parts too. I usually set the heat to about 300 degrees. just short of smoking. Has worked wonders for about 60 years. Try it you will like it
Would have liked more detail on brand/choice of case, mods it has to allow use of stroker crank and rods... curious you said you were installing case savers after assembly ? Wouldn't it be easier to install them before final ass'y so you can be sure of fit and removal of any of installation residue from tapping ?
yea either way sometimes we put them in before.
Ever try permatex the right stuff black?
I’ve got a Berg 2120 in my hot rod that was built in the 90s put together CAREFULLY with Permatex and I still don’t have any leaks.
yea dont knock it if it works. I really like the yamabond or honda bond stuff. We switched in the 80s and less problems. But Permatex also works great.
After I have torqued the case down I let it set for at least a day then torque it again. Then continue with the build and after torquing the heads I also let it set at least a day and torque again. Often you do get a little more movement. Metal moves, specially aluminum. Can't get to the case nuts after the heads go on. Adds a little more time to the build but I feel better.
good plan. we usually run them then re torque then drive for a few hundred miles and do the same.
17:30 They reduced the amount of ZDDP in STP to the point it's not really any better than plain oil. Don't use it hoping it will save your cam. Lucas break in oil is a much better choice.
Couple of things,
Watching you using a die grinder on the back of the main bearing made me cringe, metal shavings flying everywhere right next to an open engine, not good. If you are going to grind something, that engine should be bagged and parts on the work bench covered. Better yet, do it somewhere else, way away from your engine assembly.
Get bearings that fit properly, maybe another brand.
Bead blasting precision gears is a bad idea, clean by hand with brake clean and scotchbrite. Noticed the drive mating gear wasn't cleaned either.
I was surprised to see what looked like steel galley plugs, go with aluminum, less weight and much easier to remove next time around.
I do enjoy seeing a VW engine and how it's assembled, getting ready to build one for a dune buggy. I'm retired after 40 years of building Ferrari engines, there are 3 things to remember when assembling an engine of any kind, clean, clean and clean !!!
Sorry for the bother, continue on please...
final cleaning was not even done at that point. thanks for that though.
Aircraft mechanic here agreeing with you. Also gears handled with pump pliers, wrong tools used for snap rings, many things hammered in place. Not optimal.
@Lord Baxter An engine is an engine, regardless of the manufacturer, dirt & debris is death...
@@rogeeeferrari Thank you I don't build engines but Attention to detail is everything in racing be it cars, airplanes, boats. What stories you must have Roger. You in Dallas?
@@waveman2952 After 40 years in the Ferrari business in SoCal I bought a house in Arizona and retired, currently floating in the pool every day. Oh yes, stories a plenty !!
When you put the first gear into the crankshaft is there a certain way to put it, i know that the marking with the dot goes up but how does the timing work i dint see any marking or a guide for the gear to go an exact way into the crank
Good stuff Mike. Hope to be building my stroker sometime next year 👍
Going to save these for when I build my 65 and 63 1200
Why didn’t you install the rear seal when you put the case together like most people do?
This is video is taking off brother! =) Nice job!
I think there is not enough hands on engine builds. Yours too. 40hp engine. I think I will be doing a low budget engine build as well.
Thank you very much for sharing your experience with us . Greetings from Melbourne, Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks for watching!
Do you guys use the oil splash plate on the nose of the engine? I know I have seen then on stock engines. it helps keep the oil in the case along with the reverse cut groves on the pulley.
Curil K-2 is the sealant for between case halves that the shop I worked in used back in the late ‘80’s.
Can you tell me where the red and black wire's from the distributer go to on the coil positive negative sides thanks
positive red wire goes to ignition key side negative wire goes to old points side.
Sounds like you have an aftermarket electronic distributor. Black to coil (-) Red to coil (+)
It looks like you turned the cam plug around half way through the assembly , did it give you a problem ?
You let bearing filings fall into the engine block when demonstrating how to fix bearing hole misalignment to the block. You need to blowout everything clean again. Correct?
oh yea we had not blown out the engine case yet. you really need to clean even a NEW case they have metal shavings sometimes in the small oil galleys.
Hey I like that you want everything to be very clean, super important! Not sure why you ground the notch in the bearing and had the grindings dump all over the open case... I hope you went over it with a vacuum to get the metal chips. Good video though, thanks!
for sure all clean before we assembled.
Thanks for the video, thoroughly enjoyed it and thank you for posting. I'm sure y'all caught this, but just something that caught my eye at minute 28:00 I noticed the little arrow that is on the piston is supposed to be pointing towards the flywheel, not the. pulley. It may not make any difference at all, I just remember a German guy used to always tell me that.
Excellent video, thank you again for posting it. Everything looks great! You guys are awesome
arrow on piston should point the flywheel?
thanks on next portion of the video
i always use Permatex aircraft Black for sealant . Never had a leak , knock on Magnesium. Well, i sometime use spray Red for holding a gasket in place but for no gasket it has to be Aircraft grade Permatex.
90.5 mm pistons are time tested as good. But, I'm wondering about the thick walled 92s?
Me early 80's had a choice fly to Nellis AFB or get 1200 dollars to drive. I bought a 300 dollar 70 bug and drove from Tyndall AFB to Nellis AFB with a sleep over in Galveston TX . No radio a cooler of beer and mountain dew sitting in the passenger seat seeing Phoenix at night and crossing Hover dam at sunrise was memorable only issue was an unknown power loss going up the from the dam held it to the floor cough sputter off I went. No idea how many miles set of floor pans, 009 distributor tried different carb setups settled on a 40mm Weber dlf with intake through the boot .Who needs heat or air in Florida my wife's first vehicle was a vanagon with air 300,000 miles including 3 years of exploring Colorado, a queen mattress fit perfect
after owning a VW shop for fifteen years and a wholesale engine business for ten years before that, between myself and my partner we built four thousand engines, two things, you didn't check the lash on your cam gear and you should have installed the distributor drive, also I didn't hear if you were using a stock cam grind but if not you should check for clearance between lifter bore and lifter at max lift.
we did check the lash on the cam gear just didnt show it probably or maybe you didnt see that we did. those aluminum cases are designed for larger cams. But thanks for the comment. for sure those things are important. ON another build we found the cam gear was too tight. so we switched it out with another .
I noticed some windows machined into the side of the liters below the oil grooves. Not seen that before.
Is that to reduce their weight?
yea those are scat high performance. good stuff
Those are to relieve crank case pressure. When one piston comes down the air inside of the piston pushes downward and transfers the air to the other piston beside it as it goes up. Racers trick.
@@ronwoods7928 Presumably because T1 cases don't have the enlarged breather holes between the journals like the wbx engines have.
I wonder if the aluminum cases are the same.
I really enjoyed watching this, lots of great info.
I have a quick comment though, at 3:03 you are test fitting bearings, I have had rod oil starvation issues with using a late T1 crossdrilled crank center main bearing on a stroker straight drilled crank,.especially at higher rpms
not sure what that was. May look into that one.
vw type4 and older type1 had the oil feed groove against the crank journal, when vw started using crossdrilled cranks they put a large scoop on the crank and moved the oil feed groove to the case side.
Here is a neat thread on the subject:
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/index.php/o-t--t-499960--.html
I think that applied to the stock cranks they were making into stroker cranks many years ago. these cranks I f you noticed the holes we put plugs in have galleys that transfer the oil to the rods. Seems like a different system. We havent had any issues with them just horse power limits for the quality of steel. I wont be near that limit. so it will be fine.
Thanks for this video. I have built these engines before, but not for a long time, and this was very helpful.
Two thoughts about method please. 1) Do yourself a favor and do not let carb cleaner and/or brake cleaner get all over your hands. These solvents are carcinogens, and a small but still significant amount will pass through your skin. Sure you can get away with this for a while, and I used to do it too, but as a routine practice it is not a good idea. Get a box of rubber gloves. 2) Using a hand-held milling tool near an open engine can easily cause chips to settle inside the new engine. I realize that this was a demo, but best practice is to go into the next room if you are making chips and have an engine open. Otherwise great video. Really nicely done, and thanks for taking the time to do this for us all.
we had not done the final cleaning of the engine. at that point.
@@Mikefngarage Ah. Understood. Thanks for the video.
Mike do you plastic gage the rod and mains to check for .002 clearance ?? Never knew the issue about bearing oil grooves not matching up thanks for sharing that info.. also on the rods most of my rebuilds have be stock motors and rods.. Years ago when i work in a auto machine shop we used a 50/50 mix of STP and motor oil, but like my son always tells me , " dad that was way back in the olden days " ..Back in them olden days, I would micro polish the cramk in our crank grinder and refurbish or check the rods on on sun hone rod conditioner then plastic gage fit-up funny thing back in late 60s early 70's i would do a three angle grind on the heads , even set of v8 's as standard valve job, now you pay extra.. Installing new seats in a vw head; I put the vw head in our lunch break room oven, then put the chromoly seat in a small can & chill it with freon a little green loctitie after cooling it will never come out. Great how to info Mike on building the lower end.
we dont use plastigage more for used parts rebuild. Even that We do by feel. just gotta know what it feels like when it is oiled and fitting correctly.
I’ve built some VW motors, I’ve never had bearings that didn’t line up with the oil holes. And the bearings having spurs on the edges? What brand of bearings are those? I will try to avoid them. Lol
the rods. This is on every set of those rods just a little light sand and your good. Chromoly I beam rods are all like that.
in your comparing the factory rods to the forged isent mounting the con rod with the old hole on the pin going to face down instead of up where it collects oil rather than it pouring out of the pin ?how else would the pin get oil?
"Never stop leaning" is confirmed once again. This could ruin the hole engine. Only masters like you...thanks.
yea those rod caps were a bit weird but lots of the stuff out there today is that way. but it will run great for a long time.
YOU SAID to tell you you messed up...ok.......you messed up........your welcome.........glued to this engine build and mikes channel
what did I mess up on I do it all the time all I can do is all I can do. try an teach my best hope it all helps. ha ha.
I bought a 1973 bay last summer , it runs great and pulls pretty well compared to the 1600 I’ve had before , it has electronic ignition but how do I tell if it’s a 1641 cc or similar upgrade ?.
I put together a 2276 fuel injected turbocharged Alumimum 82mm stroked water inter cooled engine it’s been a long time since I played with a Vw so far I got 241 hp with 198 ft lbs of torture the next pull on the engine dyno at 8300 rpm the fan rubbed the shroud so that was the end of the dyno so far I really wished I’d found a good video like yours because well it runs so far at 104 degrees ambient the intake temp was 140 degrees when I turned the water pump on for the water inter cooler the intake ended up at 80 degrees with ice water hopefully I end up between 375-400 hp without scattering it parts except the inter cooler set up were CB performance props to them by the way I didn’t catch your stroke or boor but I had a lot of problems with the tins fitting with out beating the crap out of them so please take a little extra time on what tins you use if not stock ones thanks and props to you guys don’t remember what the cam was I think like 105 lift with the 3:1 billet roller rockers hopefully I end up with a hellcat eater 😎
I'm sure it been covered what year uses cam bearings
old 40 hp did not have cam bearings your right. after 66 then everything had cam bearings.
Very informative video guys. You must thank Jason at JW Classic for his recommendation to y’all.
Love VW old school had a wagon in Calif. Was a great beach buggy good times in the 70s
where did you buy this aluminum case? Or did you modify it yourself with the long bolts instead of shuffle pins.
the websites I viewed had aluminum engines but the short shuffle pins. I like your idea of tightening up the block.
I like the way you made the oil opening wider on the main bearing to give more oil pressure.
thanks
AA sells this case. I am not sure but most of them should be the same casting. They might all have the shuffle pins. I would check if carcraft sells this one or if the empi one has the shuffle pins. IF it does I would bet they are the same casting.
I'm surprised you oil the rod cap bolts because this changes the torque spec. Since the bolt has less friction the same torque as a dry bolt will result in putting more tensile load on the lined bolt. Do you use lower torque on the lined bolts.
Eric
I think he did oil them I was doing something else when we were at that point.
@@Mikefngarage Oil instead of ARP lube gives different torque readings.
~ Approximately how long do you leave the gears on the hotplate?
few minutes. Some guys oil in a can boiling that works too. or a propane torch.
@@Mikefngarage ~ Thanks, love your vids, very informative!
Nice job!
Just a question , does anybody out there check the backlash on the cam gears or am I the only one that does that?
I do
yea we did that. just not on the carmera cant show everyting it is just too long.
What is backlash? Thanks for the info.
Where do I see the prices for your motor I'm going to be building a (63 bug and I want it to do 75 down the highway with no problem and I want it fast in the city
I'm doing a teardown of a near new 1776 for a buddy. He had it build at a shop and it seized within 10 miles. The first thing I noticed was a ton of silicone squeezed out around the oil pump, and as you can imagine it squeezed a bunch inward as well, and I suspect that's the cause of the seizure. The story is that his friend drove it around the block a couple times and parked it, when he went to start it a few days later it wouldn't turn. My guess/hope is that when it was warm it was turning freely and locked up after it cooled down, and hopefully there's minimal damage.
In my first stage of teardown I found that there was oil leaking onto the flywheel's clutch surface and the crank bolt was barely tightened, I hope the internals weren't assembled with the same level of incompetence.
nice work guy's
Hey thanks darrin. LIke to see some motor builds from you too. Plugged you in some of these builds.So people can see other opinions of how to do their own. So far we are the only ones doing much tech stuff. There are many guys better than me at this but like my teacher said many years ago. I teach what I know and some of you guys are going to be better then me at this. I just do the best I can do.
?? Do you have to CC the heads if it is a stock engine, like a 40 Hp ? I hate to assume details don't matter, as engine building education is expensive.
Sorry iPhone mistake:
I meant connecting rod. I’d like to know the lower bearing diameter and the length of top to lower bearing c/c and the stroke of the old VW engine. If you can let me know I Thanks in advance.
Great show that’s why I subscribed too.
im not sure what your asking the stock crank is 69mm stroke.
God information.You are the best 😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
why are the oil holes for the wrist pins in the end rather than the top side to allow oil to drain into pin end holes are for vertical cylinders
The magnesium cases are the best, mon ami...as they make grande bonfires !
Love the videos. Bit confusing when you say 'red locktite' when you are using permatex thread locker. Actual Locktite Colours are blue (high strength) and pink (low strength)
A tip....if you don't have the actual clip tool to keep the lifters in place when mating the case halves....you can use regular old spring loaded clothespins...They work just fine.
good old school trick ha ha
Very informative video ❤it .Meanwhile im Searching for a 2 l carb engined type 4 Thermostat any leads .?Im In Northern Ireland BTW thanks.
Any ideas or thoughts on the TF-1 case?
I havent built off of one of those. They look really stout. Honestly I dont think for most street engines it would really matter. Autolinia makes a great case. there are some issues here and there that I think they have worked out. CB takes Autolinia and machines them up a bit to make them right all the time. But I go for lower cost and get them locally for a few hundred less. Any aluminum case outperforms the Mag original they all have shuffle pins on the mains. and are large crank Ready. It just depends on your budget and how much HP your trying to put out. I made this engine for bulletproof. with low cost parts that work good. Not thinking about the highest HP I could get.
Did you miss putting the top of the split main bearing back on? It sure looks like it is missing at 23:43!
Ah ok, embarassed 🤢🤢 I think it is held captive in the right case half. Sorry for my blunder!
stuck in the case half funny.
A trick i learned from a friend who builds aircraft engine's after you put the brush on sealer on case halves lay a strand of silk thread on the sealer all the way around the case half. After its torqued the silk thread will compress and that engine will never leak at the halves. He does the same with the oil pump before setting it in place except he uses oil to hold the thread. I have never seen one leak with silk thread.
When you both the cases together you should either use the stuff they use for aluminum transmission cases or aircraft stuff personally we use the aviation permatex you have to mix the bottle of real good when you get a new bottle and mix it up before you use it bulletproof silicone connection I don't know if this is the right word but HZ metal edges because of the chemicals in the silicon not good for aluminum and magnesium
Aren't those rod bolts torqued to yield of no?
not those depening on the number of the bolt there are differnent torques.
@@Mikefngarage alright thanks for responding and I'm kinda new to this vw stuff
How much power/torque do you think this engine will make when it's finished?
I dont have a number on it. we will figure that out when we are done I dont have a dyno so it will be estimated.
chris thinks about 100 but maybe 110 max. mostly torque. about like a 2l type 4
How many times did you say to blow out every hole? Did you think we didn't get that the first time?
Great videos.. I just have one really dumb question... What is meant by a stroker engine? And how do they differ from standard?
standard stroke of a vw is 69mm this one is 78mm. so it has a different crankshaft. also it has larger pistons stock is 85.5 mm and this one is 90.5 stock is a 1600 this one is 2007. still a pretty bullet proof motor and a bit more power and torque.
@@Mikefngarage so it just refers to the piston travel?
Mike, how much will you charge for a bulletproof 1835 engine.
check Brothers machine shop I dont do engines for other people. They have decent prices and excellent. work. make sure to go with the thick wall pistons. But if it were me I would go 1968 instead. that is a 74 stroker just about the same bullet proof more power and similar cost.
@@Mikefngarage thank you.
With a new case out of the box, do i need to have ot machine prior assembly?
all machine work is on the case how you order it. I got mine set up for the cylinders I chose which was 90.5. Updated with shuffle pins and case savers. out of the box ready for assembliy after cleaning.
@@Mikefngarage i order a brand new mag AS 41 85mm.
the piston arrow is facing the side of the rack?
yup got that right
Yamabond isn't ONLY for Yamaha's. It's for any case, especially aluminum that is vertically split & has oil contained in it - which the VW does. I think Permatex now has a replacement for the Yamabond that is also grey. I don't remember the name of it off hand.