I rebuilt a 1600 single port back in the late 70's and learned a lot from it. I didn't realize all the different sources for parts back then, and now I'm sure there are less. I'd like to get a '67 and do a ground up rebuild of the whole car. Now that I have time, maybe I can scratch up enough money, maybe. Enjoy your vids!
We have not had any issues with aa. unless someone starts going into super high rpm or high boost turbo. Which Mahle would fail too. IMO. My buddy has 150k miles on AA pistons and aluminum case. I have never heard a engine that sounds that strong with that many miles ever. I think He is good for at least 200. Impossible with mag case.
Some very interesting information Mike, lots of stuff I've never even considered. 1970, and I was driving a '59 36hp Beetle, a friend from work had a nice 1966 1300 Bug, arguably the sportiest Beetle to that point. Long story short, we fitted a twin vane Rootes supercharger with 1 3/4 " SU carb to his 1300, it went like a scalded cat, not for long runs, (so definitely not bulletproof), it used to overheat badly, and disintegrate clutches, but talk about bolt on horsepower. I'd like to go back and do that again, with what I know now.
I've seen a Karmann Ghia set up with a supercharger and it too went like a scalded cat. Need to have a strong bottom end, additional oil cooling and I think he used a Porsche fan to help keep it cooled.
@@Mikefngarage there were a few Judson supercharged bugs about in those days, Judson did a nice kit I think. Those bugs used to blow the doors off the big sixes at our Sunday night "unofficial" drag meets at an industrial estate.
I'm from Brazil. I have a Vw Brasilia 1979. We've done many, many bugs and Bus (vw kombi) empi buy almost everything from Brazil, front suspension, heads and block (case). We have good and bad pieces. Good and bad companies. The pieces if well chosen is a good deal.
Agree with current parts available. Even tho many, many things are made in China. They still have to meet the company SPEC or said company will refuse the parts. Most folks don't understand that. I have built several engines with the AA piston kits. No troubles that I'm aware of.
In the late 60s the way local shops rebuilt the motors was really strange ? My old boss had all of these tools. Bore honer . piston expander . over sized valve stems , over sized wrist pins. Of coarse they turned the cranks but when it came to pistons listen to this! Expanding the piston .010 and putting .010 over sized rings.only 1 out of 10 would crack. then there was these green end wrist pins, they were over sized so what was done was hone the piston and not change the rod bushing just hone it to fit the green pins. the cly. was honed bored out to .010 . lifters were ground and they would just use a good used cam. On the heads they had valves with over sized stems so all you did was ream the guide and cut the seat. they even reused the oil pumps.this would tighten the motor specs. The price for these motors was 75 for a short block with a fly wheel and 150 for long block with the flywheel.Now the dealers had rebuilt motors for 275 but they had new pistons rebuilt rods new cam and lifters rebuilt heads with new guides . turned cranks. new oil pumps? It was a better motor.! what costed more was 1500-1600 motors because there was no cores until mid 70s. Check this out when I was 15 I went into the dealer and got the stuff for Jewburners 40 hp and I told them I need pistons , well he came back with a box that had 3 in it and I go I need all 4 , and he said that guys would just buy 1 or 2 pistons . I told him I was rebuilding the motor not overhauling it .?????
totally weird. I believe that about the old Klob pistons. they were flat colored and cast. they still had them in the early 80s. then we had to use Mahle or some other brand My old boss wouldnt use.
Mike why you keep calling the opening on the case 90.5? Stock the bore of the case is 90 and to fit 1776 or 1835 you need to cut it to 96.1mm. I know 90.5 is the bore of 1776 pistons, but i think some people will get confused overtime. Ok i watched 30 sec further, im a machinist haha. Here you go for the info. Greetz
when you order cases already cut you order it for 90.5 or 92. Yea I mention that I dont know the exact opening size because I am not a machinist. Heads too order 90.5 or 92 or 85.5.
at about 17:50 you mention some thermal issues with the al vs mg cases. specifically that with the al case "heat does not transfer out of the case as easily". the aluminum alloy is a significantly better conductor of heat than the magnesium alloy. a356 is at 150 W/m-K and the as41 is at 68. that's nearly 1.5/1. you can find these numbers on the web. my thinking on this has always been that the higher heat conductivity of the al case is flowing heat from much hotter areas into cooler areas of the case such as the oil sump. easy explanation is that the case is holding heat in (been reading that line of thought on thesamba for years) when in fact it isn't holding it in (check the thermal properties) but rather transferring heat in that would not be there if the case were mg. so what's happening is the al case is sucking heat off the cylinders and studs at a higher rate than the mg case. the al case is better at dissipating the heat but it's sucking it in so much faster that a higher equilibrium temp is the result. if the case and oil is hotter because of the heat transfer then perhaps the heads are a bit cooler? i gotta go eat some lunch. good vid. i watched all of it.
maybe it is the thickness. I think they are thicker. Many guys are saying oil temps are higher with the aluminum. But I havent verified it myself. I totally would say aluminum is far superior to the mag. It is better in about every way I can see. Just a bit heavier.
@@Mikefngarage i don't even mind that it is heavier. i'm a highway guy so once i get the extra 15 pounds going down the road, it really doesn't matter. the extra mass damps vibration so i figure Al will be quieter than Mg.
On the hole size in the case is close to 100mm I just finished a case for a turbo engine for a customer. DPR does welded cranks and till he quits I will run his cranks and will avoid Chinese cranks. Compering cell phones to engine parts is stupid. I run 1776s and 1904s in my bus's I believe these are the biggest I would run reliably I drive a 70 and a 71 westy year around in Alaska and put about 15000 a year so ya you could say I live it and I think Iam the only one in Alaska to do so this much. My favorite engine is a 40 HP but they are slower but Iam most likely the only guy here that lived in the woods in a cabin and drove a 64 bug in -50 F weather and it sat outdoors.
yea for sure they are totally bulletproof. You cant wear one out because it doesnt have enough power to do so. and with a 69 crank which was stronger than the 1200 they would last forever.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge😀😀 and experience with your reasoning now certain items are making more sense especially the choice of materials for the case aluminium over magnesium.
Mike, can you recommend a trustworthy builder down in CA that would build me a bulletproof turnkey 1776 for my '58 bus? I'm up in Alaska and would love to drive down to Buses by the Bridge next year, need a dependable plant to get me there (and back)...know anybody?
Brothers machine shop in Ontario CA. they do good work. Make sure to upgrade the transmission too. very important. I use Benco or KCR. both in riverside.
@@Mikefngarage of course, I'd much rather give you the business, but I figured you'd be swamped with commitments for a ways out so I didn't wanna bother you. Yeah, let's get in touch and make it happen, appreciate it. Tim
Hi Mike. I found your presentation very informative and I thank you for that. During your recording, was there someone else sitting in a rocking chair making that annoying creaking sound that always comes with when someone is in a rocking chair. Whatever it was, it was damn annoying and needs to stop.
![VENEZUELA vs. ARGENTINA [1-1] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SJfoPdeOPCQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I rebuilt a 1600 single port back in the late 70's and learned a lot from it. I didn't realize all the different sources for parts back then, and now I'm sure there are less. I'd like to get a '67 and do a ground up rebuild of the whole car. Now that I have time, maybe I can scratch up enough money, maybe. Enjoy your vids!
Thank for making me feel better about using AA pistons.. Everyone told me I was an idiot for not going german
AA is the best at the moment
We have not had any issues with aa. unless someone starts going into super high rpm or high boost turbo. Which Mahle would fail too. IMO. My buddy has 150k miles on AA pistons and aluminum case. I have never heard a engine that sounds that strong with that many miles ever. I think He is good for at least 200. Impossible with mag case.
I’m going AA also. Hope I have the same luck!
I wish that I had gotten into VWs in the 80 's. Oh, well. I still learned an awful lot working on 60's Caddys
Some very interesting information Mike, lots of stuff I've never even considered.
1970, and I was driving a '59 36hp Beetle, a friend from work had a nice 1966 1300 Bug, arguably the sportiest Beetle to that point. Long story short, we fitted a twin vane Rootes supercharger with 1 3/4 " SU carb to his 1300, it went like a scalded cat, not for long runs, (so definitely not bulletproof), it used to overheat badly, and disintegrate clutches, but talk about bolt on horsepower. I'd like to go back and do that again, with what I know now.
I've seen a Karmann Ghia set up with a supercharger and it too went like a scalded cat. Need to have a strong bottom end, additional oil cooling and I think he used a Porsche fan to help keep it cooled.
I would love to find one of those.
@@Mikefngarage there were a few Judson supercharged bugs about in those days, Judson did a nice kit I think. Those bugs used to blow the doors off the big sixes at our Sunday night "unofficial" drag meets at an industrial estate.
You are correct Mike, eventually there won’t be German parts. Unfortunately. I’m going AA on my pistons. Happy Thanksgiving 🦃
guys our here been running them for years with no issues.
I'm from Brazil. I have a Vw Brasilia 1979. We've done many, many bugs and Bus (vw kombi) empi buy almost everything from Brazil, front suspension, heads and block (case). We have good and bad pieces. Good and bad companies. The pieces if well chosen is a good deal.
yea for sure you cant just go by Brazilian and think its better than china. or vise versa. It has to be good.
I'm having a new engine built for my bus. Is a 1920cc in the "bulletproof" zone? All new parts
Actually, 2007 with the last Brazilian VW Van. It used the Type II redesign locally engine with fuel injection.
wow
Thanks for the video. It seems to have a lot of good information.
Agree with current parts available.
Even tho many, many things are made in China. They still have to meet the company SPEC or said company will refuse the parts. Most folks don't understand that.
I have built several engines with the AA piston kits. No troubles that I'm aware of.
Yea they are not too bad IMO. The only complaint I have is how much stuff costs. There is not a whole lot of markup from most places either.
In the late 60s the way local shops rebuilt the motors was really strange ? My old boss had all of these tools. Bore honer . piston expander . over sized valve stems , over sized wrist pins. Of coarse they turned the cranks but when it came to pistons listen to this! Expanding the piston .010 and putting .010 over sized rings.only 1 out of 10 would crack. then there was these green end wrist pins, they were over sized so what was done was hone the piston and not change the rod bushing just hone it to fit the green pins. the cly. was honed bored out to .010 . lifters were ground and they would just use a good used cam. On the heads they had valves with over sized stems so all you did was ream the guide and cut the seat. they even reused the oil pumps.this would tighten the motor specs. The price for these motors was 75 for a short block with a fly wheel and 150 for long block with the flywheel.Now the dealers had rebuilt motors for 275 but they had new pistons rebuilt rods new cam and lifters rebuilt heads with new guides . turned cranks. new oil pumps? It was a better motor.! what costed more was 1500-1600 motors because there was no cores until mid 70s. Check this out when I was 15 I went into the dealer and got the stuff for Jewburners 40 hp and I told them I need pistons , well he came back with a box that had 3 in it and I go I need all 4 , and he said that guys would just buy 1 or 2 pistons . I told him I was rebuilding the motor not overhauling it .?????
totally weird. I believe that about the old Klob pistons. they were flat colored and cast. they still had them in the early 80s. then we had to use Mahle or some other brand My old boss wouldnt use.
Mike why you keep calling the opening on the case 90.5? Stock the bore of the case is 90 and to fit 1776 or 1835 you need to cut it to 96.1mm. I know 90.5 is the bore of 1776 pistons, but i think some people will get confused overtime. Ok i watched 30 sec further, im a machinist haha. Here you go for the info. Greetz
when you order cases already cut you order it for 90.5 or 92. Yea I mention that I dont know the exact opening size because I am not a machinist. Heads too order 90.5 or 92 or 85.5.
at about 17:50 you mention some thermal issues with the al vs mg cases. specifically that with the al case "heat does not transfer out of the case as easily". the aluminum alloy is a significantly better conductor of heat than the magnesium alloy. a356 is at 150 W/m-K and the as41 is at 68. that's nearly 1.5/1. you can find these numbers on the web. my thinking on this has always been that the higher heat conductivity of the al case is flowing heat from much hotter areas into cooler areas of the case such as the oil sump. easy explanation is that the case is holding heat in (been reading that line of thought on thesamba for years) when in fact it isn't holding it in (check the thermal properties) but rather transferring heat in that would not be there if the case were mg. so what's happening is the al case is sucking heat off the cylinders and studs at a higher rate than the mg case. the al case is better at dissipating the heat but it's sucking it in so much faster that a higher equilibrium temp is the result. if the case and oil is hotter because of the heat transfer then perhaps the heads are a bit cooler? i gotta go eat some lunch. good vid. i watched all of it.
maybe it is the thickness. I think they are thicker. Many guys are saying oil temps are higher with the aluminum. But I havent verified it myself. I totally would say aluminum is far superior to the mag. It is better in about every way I can see. Just a bit heavier.
@@Mikefngarage i don't even mind that it is heavier. i'm a highway guy so once i get the extra 15 pounds going down the road, it really doesn't matter. the extra mass damps vibration so i figure Al will be quieter than Mg.
On the hole size in the case is close to 100mm I just finished a case for a turbo engine for a customer. DPR does welded cranks and till he quits I will run his cranks and will avoid Chinese cranks. Compering cell phones to engine parts is stupid. I run 1776s and 1904s in my bus's I believe these are the biggest I would run reliably I drive a 70 and a 71 westy year around in Alaska and put about 15000 a year so ya you could say I live it and I think Iam the only one in Alaska to do so this much. My favorite engine is a 40 HP but they are slower but Iam most likely the only guy here that lived in the woods in a cabin and drove a 64 bug in -50 F weather and it sat outdoors.
which is the strongest setup for a 1600 to turbocharge with high boost?
Thanks for all the info.
You bet!
Hey I'm new to VW, but what the largest jugs and pisI can put on a 1600 without machining my case?
1640 but it is has thin walls so not really worth the bother.
Great info, thank you!
What about the 1300 single port 50 horse and the 1300 dual port 54 horse we get in Europe? Thanks.
yea for sure they are totally bulletproof. You cant wear one out because it doesnt have enough power to do so. and with a 69 crank which was stronger than the 1200 they would last forever.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge😀😀 and experience with your reasoning now certain items are making more sense especially the choice of materials for the case aluminium over magnesium.
1300 dual ports are just as bullet proof as single port engines.
Thanks man! Very informative! ✌
thanks wes for stopping by
The configuration of the crank negates the need for counter weights. The counterweights are to improve rigidity.
yea for sure they do help. but not necessary just a bit better.
Mike, can you recommend a trustworthy builder down in CA that would build me a bulletproof turnkey 1776 for my '58 bus? I'm up in Alaska and would love to drive down to Buses by the Bridge next year, need a dependable plant to get me there (and back)...know anybody?
Brothers machine shop in Ontario CA. they do good work. Make sure to upgrade the transmission too. very important. I use Benco or KCR. both in riverside.
@@Mikefngarage awesome, I'll deal with them, thanks mucho!
@@IAm1InTheIAm good fair prices too.
@@Mikefngarage of course, I'd much rather give you the business, but I figured you'd be swamped with commitments for a ways out so I didn't wanna bother you. Yeah, let's get in touch and make it happen, appreciate it. Tim
Lol, got it!
Hi Mike. I found your presentation very informative and I thank you for that. During your recording, was there someone else sitting in a rocking chair making that annoying creaking sound that always comes with when someone is in a rocking chair. Whatever it was, it was damn annoying and needs to stop.
thanks I think the chair I was rolling around on was creaking. with my fat ass on it. ha ha sorry for that.