Great to see someone giving the thick walled 88's the credit they deserve. We love using them and they're really the true "bullet proof" barrel size I believe. They're the thickest barrel wall at the head recess I know of for a type1 motor - even thicker than stock barrels. They maintain max material around Head stud insert into the engine case because it keeps the stock barrel spigot size into the case so pulling a head stud when inserts are used is very unlikely with this barrel size. Also, with many aftermarket heads having bigger chamber size than stock we found we had to step up to the 88's to get some reasonable compression back in the motor without having to machine much out of the head (good to keep as much material in the head as the were made with was made with). Then there's the option of stepping up to the 74mm crank. We often do the 74mm with a 92mm thick wall too which is a lot of fun driving in a Beetle without stressing the factory engine case so much. We usually switch to chromoly pushrods with the 74mm crank due to the need to get the rocker geometry right.
Hi Mike and y'all :) I have begun planning and slowly gathering parts for this sweet little 1300 stroker. I will be basing it on an AB-engine, 1300 dual port. I will get the 74mm counterweighted crank, with the short rods. Web 86 cam. Will be using original 77mm cylinders and pistons. CC's will go up from 1285 to 1378. Cylinder heads will be stock 1300 dp. With standard deck height, compression will go from 7,5:1 to 7,8:1. I will use center part of intake manifold + carburetor from a stock 1600 dual port. I'm thinking that those 77mm pistons are light and sweet and if the skirts have to be cut shorter for clearance, they get even a little lighter still. That will mean it has a low reciprocating mass and will be more willing to rev than a standard 1600. And with the counterweighted crank it will fare much better in doing so.
there you go that is thinking. low reciprocating weight but I like the 1800 combo. little more weight and lots more cc. super fast running 1600 block motor.
i've wanted a set of those european db 1300 heads for ages. 7.8:1 isn't enough compression. you need to to flycut the heads a bit and drop the deck to .040. run the comp up to at least 8.25:1. you're running europe gas right? that's higher octane stuff than we have. maybe you should be thinking 9:1 for starters.
No Scotty, I will not do that. See I'm not seeking power. Sure, yes, our gas here in Sweden is 95 octane for the regular and 98 for the super, so the compression you mention would probably not be a factor as far as detonations goes, but what I'm after is better than stock longevity and characteristics that has the maximum torque some hundred rpms higher than a 1600 and power that is about the same as a stock 1600 dp. I want it not to get hot, even on a long stretch on the German Autobahn. High compression will make it run hotter. Also an absolute must for me is keeping machine work to an absolute minimum. I got a quote of almost 6500 in US currency, just for line boring a case. And that firm was said to have decent pricing!! I have since heard that that quote was indeed absurd, but still.... A guy on a swedish VW-forum told me that I could have a line bore made for about 80 USD. That's.. a better :)
@@Larsy001 wow! i didn't realize you didn't have access to cheap machine work. we sometimes don't realize how good we have it over here. good thing i didn't suggest milling the tops of the pistons a bit. i run milled pistons and paid $80.
@@redshirt-scotty No worries :) Yeah well.. I believe there are engineering firms here that wouldn't rob you blind as well, but you need to be aware of them. We don't have machine shops everywhere. But as I said, I don't want to raise the compression more than the moderate increase that I get for free so to speak, through the longer stroke. Those heads are a bit rare here as well and I really don't want to modify them :)
it's nice to see a guy my age (roughly) or older who isn't still towing the berg low compression philosophy. i'm totally on board with 9:1. if it doesn't quite work, take it apart and stick a small shim in there.
What I need to do is remove the .040 shims off the 1600! Its deck height is over 1/8 of an inch. and does not come alive till 32 degrees timing . I have it at 28 and it does not run any better than a stock 1600. I drive it on the Highway so I will stay with 28.But it likes 32?? = Too low of compression................. I have checked the .009 and it swings forward from 12 - 28 when gunned.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great to see someone giving the thick walled 88's the credit they deserve. We love using them and they're really the true "bullet proof" barrel size I believe. They're the thickest barrel wall at the head recess I know of for a type1 motor - even thicker than stock barrels. They maintain max material around Head stud insert into the engine case because it keeps the stock barrel spigot size into the case so pulling a head stud when inserts are used is very unlikely with this barrel size. Also, with many aftermarket heads having bigger chamber size than stock we found we had to step up to the 88's to get some reasonable compression back in the motor without having to machine much out of the head (good to keep as much material in the head as the were made with was made with).
Then there's the option of stepping up to the 74mm crank. We often do the 74mm with a 92mm thick wall too which is a lot of fun driving in a Beetle without stressing the factory engine case so much. We usually switch to chromoly pushrods with the 74mm crank due to the need to get the rocker geometry right.
kills the overheat issues. and with those heads and thick wall 88s.
that little spider was watching how to build this too!
😀
I thought he was on my screen! LOL!
I just walked up to my TV to kill it😂
Hi Mike and y'all :)
I have begun planning and slowly gathering parts for this sweet little 1300 stroker. I will be basing it on an AB-engine, 1300 dual port. I will get the 74mm counterweighted crank, with the short rods. Web 86 cam. Will be using original 77mm cylinders and pistons. CC's will go up from 1285 to 1378.
Cylinder heads will be stock 1300 dp. With standard deck height, compression will go from 7,5:1 to 7,8:1. I will use center part of intake manifold + carburetor from a stock 1600 dual port.
I'm thinking that those 77mm pistons are light and sweet and if the skirts have to be cut shorter for clearance, they get even a little lighter still. That will mean it has a low reciprocating mass and will be more willing to rev than a standard 1600. And with the counterweighted crank it will fare much better in doing so.
there you go that is thinking. low reciprocating weight but I like the 1800 combo. little more weight and lots more cc. super fast running 1600 block motor.
i've wanted a set of those european db 1300 heads for ages. 7.8:1 isn't enough compression. you need to to flycut the heads a bit and drop the deck to .040. run the comp up to at least 8.25:1. you're running europe gas right? that's higher octane stuff than we have. maybe you should be thinking 9:1 for starters.
No Scotty, I will not do that. See I'm not seeking power. Sure, yes, our gas here in Sweden is 95 octane for the regular and 98 for the super, so the compression you mention would probably not be a factor as far as detonations goes, but what I'm after is better than stock longevity and characteristics that has the maximum torque some hundred rpms higher than a 1600 and power that is about the same as a stock 1600 dp. I want it not to get hot, even on a long stretch on the German Autobahn. High compression will make it run hotter. Also an absolute must for me is keeping machine work to an absolute minimum. I got a quote of almost 6500 in US currency, just for line boring a case. And that firm was said to have decent pricing!! I have since heard that that quote was indeed absurd, but still....
A guy on a swedish VW-forum told me that I could have a line bore made for about 80 USD. That's.. a better :)
@@Larsy001 wow! i didn't realize you didn't have access to cheap machine work. we sometimes don't realize how good we have it over here. good thing i didn't suggest milling the tops of the pistons a bit. i run milled pistons and paid $80.
@@redshirt-scotty No worries :) Yeah well.. I believe there are engineering firms here that wouldn't rob you blind as well, but you need to be aware of them. We don't have machine shops everywhere. But as I said, I don't want to raise the compression more than the moderate increase that I get for free so to speak, through the longer stroke. Those heads are a bit rare here as well and I really don't want to modify them :)
it's nice to see a guy my age (roughly) or older who isn't still towing the berg low compression philosophy. i'm totally on board with 9:1. if it doesn't quite work, take it apart and stick a small shim in there.
look forward to learn more. New friend Ruthie
JPM Used heavily modified stock parts and have built a 1603cc which makes 195hp
Look forward to this one being complete. Almost did this combo instead of the 1915 I just built.
yea for sure
Great video! Thanks Mike!
Glad you liked it!
Can you use stock heated boxes with those heads?
What I need to do is remove the .040 shims off the 1600! Its deck height is over 1/8 of an inch. and does not come alive till 32 degrees timing . I have it at 28 and it does not run any better than a stock 1600. I drive it on the Highway so I will stay with 28.But it likes 32?? = Too low of compression................. I have checked the .009 and it swings forward from 12 - 28 when gunned.
yea gotta play with the heads to get them to cc larger and keep the deck between 45 and 60. 45 would be cutting it a bit close.
Thanks buddy
No problem 👍