Could you provide insight on crank stroke you choose 74 any advantages to this stroke vs longer? or what is required build wise rod length deck height for longer stroke? do you plan on a build video with a longer stroke?
yes. and I believe on an early 1500 they were used as gaskets. because those flywheels didnt have a oring early ones. If I built an early and it was too loose I would not use the gasket and use silicone to make tolerance.
Hi Mike, don't you balance the Flywheel with the Crankshaft? And do you put Sealant between the Flywheel Sealing ring (Simmerring) and the Case. because they sometimes pop out. Greetings from Germany.
I know it has been a while since I worked on vw engines but I know those paper shims were for 40 hp and lower. 50hp up requires a metal shim. I found that out when I tore my flywheel of the crankshaft 😳
Thanks Mike..I'm using your videos to build a 74mm stroker as well. It will most likely go into my rail...but who knows, it may end up in the bus. What are your thoughts on the CB Panchito heads?
I know you prefer type 3 cooling tins. Have you ever done a temperature difference test between an engine you have built with type 3 cooling tins and stock tin? What was the temperature difference between the two?
@@Mikefngarage Mike - I watched your video on the 009 distributor, it seems you use those a lot. Do you usually run H30/31 carbs with them on your VWs? Or maybe the Pict 34/3?
@@gmd1417 yea if the carbs are jetted right how you advance your timing should not create a dead spot. SOme guys mask the dead spot by using a vacuum advance distributor. But if the jetting is right it should not have a dead spot even with the 009.
Mike, Does that merged exhaust system with the muffler being so close to the valve cover add heat to the head/oil? or is it negligible? Just wanted to say that it brings me back to my high school days in auto shop and after watching your videos. I wish that I had this knowledge back then. back when I was buying my engines/parts from Johnny Speed and chrome. Don't have mu bug any longer but always cool to remember the past. From North Orange County, Keep the builds coming.
Mike, question for you. You time the motors to 28 degrees. The guy that built my motor (1600 single port) says 25 degrees at 3000. Which do you think is best? Thanks!
stock engine 28 degrees total advance is the best for most engines. if there is a certain cam or over compression. it might need to be less. If it does not ping at 28 degrees it should be fine at 28 if it pings it should be retarded.
Yea you need a vw machine shop. Need to send your case out to one in socal. Best one is Brothers VW Machine shop in Ontario CA....but if that is too expensive just buy a new aluminum case that is opened up for whatever you want to do. THey are expensive too but sometimes you ad up all the cost of opening up, line boring a case, putting in case savers, Shuffle pins. it is just cheaper to buy a new one. that is better and stronger.
Thanks Mike for this year 2019, hope 2020 be much better... We love and appreciate your videos
Lol... 2020 🤷♂️
Thank you for all the great info and a great build.
Great Info!! Nice video!!!
This channel is curing my OCD !! love your videos haha Happy New Year
Great info! love seeing the build makes we want to tackle the build on my Fasty but I'm not sure I have the confidence enough to do it.
When it comes too the distributer drive gear aren't the early engines pre 1971 take 1 shim under drive gear and 1971 and later takes 2 shims.?
Could you provide insight on crank stroke you choose 74 any advantages to this stroke vs longer? or what is required build wise rod length deck height for longer stroke? do you plan on a build video with a longer stroke?
I notice that you did not put the big deflector tins on the bottom of the motor (the long ones that run from front to back). Why?
So those flywheel crank paper gaskets are meant to be used as shims???
yes. and I believe on an early 1500 they were used as gaskets. because those flywheels didnt have a oring early ones. If I built an early and it was too loose I would not use the gasket and use silicone to make tolerance.
Small blower on that puppy- BA Real Scooter. ☮️
What Carbie/ Carbies would compliment the 1904 thanks
Hi Mike, don't you balance the Flywheel with the Crankshaft? And do you put Sealant between the Flywheel Sealing ring (Simmerring) and the Case. because they sometimes pop out. Greetings from Germany.
I know it has been a while since I worked on vw engines but I know those paper shims were for 40 hp and lower. 50hp up requires a metal shim. I found that out when I tore my flywheel of the crankshaft 😳
Thanks Mike..I'm using your videos to build a 74mm stroker as well. It will most likely go into my rail...but who knows, it may end up in the bus. What are your thoughts on the CB Panchito heads?
Did you say, you have a video on your heater boxes? Or need to make one on the heater boxes. Would be great to see how you knock one up 👌👌
What exhaust system is that?
Do you ever do any of the Hover mods on the oil galleries, lifters etc.
I know you prefer type 3 cooling tins. Have you ever done a temperature difference test between an engine you have built with type 3 cooling tins and stock tin? What was the temperature difference between the two?
many years ago and there was a difference dont remember the exact numbers. but it did work on a performance engine.
@@Mikefngarage Mike - I watched your video on the 009 distributor, it seems you use those a lot. Do you usually run H30/31 carbs with them on your VWs? Or maybe the Pict 34/3?
@@gmd1417 yea if the carbs are jetted right how you advance your timing should not create a dead spot. SOme guys mask the dead spot by using a vacuum advance distributor. But if the jetting is right it should not have a dead spot even with the 009.
Mike,
Does that merged exhaust system with the muffler being so close to the valve cover add heat to the head/oil?
or is it negligible?
Just wanted to say that it brings me back to my high school days in auto shop and after watching your videos.
I wish that I had this knowledge back then. back when I was buying my engines/parts from Johnny Speed and chrome.
Don't have mu bug any longer but always cool to remember the past.
From North Orange County,
Keep the builds coming.
no it is far enough away and the air flow pushes the heat away from the engine.
Actually when you're setting your end play use the old nut five little bit too loose. It could damage the main bearings
Mike, question for you. You time the motors to 28 degrees. The guy that built my motor (1600 single port) says 25 degrees at 3000. Which do you think is best? Thanks!
stock engine 28 degrees total advance is the best for most engines. if there is a certain cam or over compression. it might need to be less. If it does not ping at 28 degrees it should be fine at 28 if it pings it should be retarded.
when my valves get depressed,I try to say nice things to them.
I do not have access to a machine shop that will touch a air cooled. Kinda sucks
Yea you need a vw machine shop. Need to send your case out to one in socal. Best one is Brothers VW Machine shop in Ontario CA....but if that is too expensive just buy a new aluminum case that is opened up for whatever you want to do. THey are expensive too but sometimes you ad up all the cost of opening up, line boring a case, putting in case savers, Shuffle pins. it is just cheaper to buy a new one. that is better and stronger.
Sweet motor Mike do you build for customers or is this for your personal use. If so what would you charge for a motor like this?
only for myself.
Is this engine going into the kombi that your doing videos on at the moment?
its going into another one I have then that engine is going in this kombi
Very poor dialog.
Great video