FYI Silverline had some bearings. that had issues with how the center main was formed. We talked to a few builders that had the same issue. This was on standard standard as far as we know. As far as we know this was just a bad run and has been corrected. We got some fresh off the boat ones and they were fine. However there may be some of the old ones hovering around that are miss formed. Be aware that if you have this problem, get some bearings from a different source (stull use Silverline because they are steel backed others are NOT). The timeline of the manufacturing of these bearings was around 2021/2022 (covid issue?) They were distributed last year as far as we know. Recent ones distributed dont have the problem.
AA has some of the FRESH ones now so if you wonder if you got the bad ones try another set from AA or maybe IAP. But We dont know if IAP is going to redistribute those bad bearings.
44:34 Yeah, that's what my wife is always complaining about.. she says she wants more stroke and a longer rod. But her bug runs really good. I don't see a need for it.
Hi guys is that George from Jurupa Ave in Riverside? I remember when he and Carcraft were in the same neighborhood. Way back when. Glad to see you're still around doing VW dubs. Jim
Wow I thought I was only one running into these issues with silverline. I had issues with silverline rod bearings as well. So I will buy Mahle or Kolbenschmidt.
keep buying silverline if your using a Mag case. the Mahle or Klob main bearings are NOT BIMETAL.....they are too weak for a mag case. The Silverline still have the steel backed center main. Klobe and mahle do NOT....
Nice vid and Info👌 Even had the silverline probs with center split bearing… One mark on the pulley were correct. The bump/ditch at the outer side/towards back of the car is OT, which lines up perfect with your new mark. 😉 Best Greetings from D, Felix
Great video thanks for showing, I'm a bit confused as to the two tape marks calculating tdc though, how come you don't mark the pulley when the piston is touching your deck height bolt?
well that gets it pretty close but using the bolt makes it exact. takes up any piston slack and or looseness of any kind. Try it and you will see what I am talking about. When you rotate it around and hit the bolt solid each direction there is no slack. tight to tight. no guessing.
the pulleys are too thin and you really cant run a aluminum pully either. they crack really easy. you need a sand seal cut pulley and sand seal cut case plus the seal.
we switched to the AA 4340 which is great. they are slightly better machined than the 4140. the 4140 are usually fine but also the whole combination is slightly off so sometimes it just has issues.
if you use good oil it should be in the oil. I use Kendall which is zinc rich oil. works great in vws. Or you can use castrol with added zinc. or Shell rotella T5 which has the same.
😂thanks for putting out your videos. Are you going to do a video on carb selection for your type of builds? Im sure you have some hard earned insite..thanks again!
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FYI Silverline had some bearings. that had issues with how the center main was formed. We talked to a few builders that had the same issue. This was on standard standard as far as we know. As far as we know this was just a bad run and has been corrected. We got some fresh off the boat ones and they were fine. However there may be some of the old ones hovering around that are miss formed. Be aware that if you have this problem, get some bearings from a different source (stull use Silverline because they are steel backed others are NOT). The timeline of the manufacturing of these bearings was around 2021/2022 (covid issue?) They were distributed last year as far as we know. Recent ones distributed dont have the problem.
AA has some of the FRESH ones now so if you wonder if you got the bad ones try another set from AA or maybe IAP. But We dont know if IAP is going to redistribute those bad bearings.
Excellent video Mike!!! Great filming too!!
Looking good 🎉 nice close up camera footage and good lighting too
Thanks 👍
Kool man! I have build several strokers and this video touches on the checkpoints. Thanks man!
44:34 Yeah, that's what my wife is always complaining about.. she says she wants more stroke and a longer rod. But her bug runs really good. I don't see a need for it.
🤣🤣Is the stroke too short or the bore too wide? 🤔😂
Hi guys is that George from Jurupa Ave in Riverside? I remember when he and Carcraft were in the same neighborhood. Way back when. Glad to see you're still around doing VW dubs. Jim
Great video.
Thanks!
Wow I thought I was only one running into these issues with silverline. I had issues with silverline rod bearings as well. So I will buy Mahle or Kolbenschmidt.
keep buying silverline if your using a Mag case. the Mahle or Klob main bearings are NOT BIMETAL.....they are too weak for a mag case. The Silverline still have the steel backed center main. Klobe and mahle do NOT....
@@Mikefngarage didn’t think about that one. Thanks
So helpful and informative. Thanks man all of your knowledge is appreciated
Type 3 cylinder shroud!
Nice vid and Info👌 Even had the silverline probs with center split bearing…
One mark on the pulley were correct.
The bump/ditch at the outer side/towards back of the car is OT, which lines up perfect with your new mark. 😉
Best Greetings from D, Felix
Hey Mike ! boy the bearing sit scares me . Back in the day you didn"t even have to set the cam thrust ?
Great video thanks for showing, I'm a bit confused as to the two tape marks calculating tdc though, how come you don't mark the pulley when the piston is touching your deck height bolt?
well that gets it pretty close but using the bolt makes it exact. takes up any piston slack and or looseness of any kind. Try it and you will see what I am talking about. When you rotate it around and hit the bolt solid each direction there is no slack. tight to tight. no guessing.
Why no sand seal ? Love your channel.
the pulleys are too thin and you really cant run a aluminum pully either. they crack really easy. you need a sand seal cut pulley and sand seal cut case plus the seal.
Mike what carbs are you going to use buddy 😊
stock carb with a choke. used for torque only no top end other than freeway.
@@Mikefngarage yes cool, do you go to many car shows? 😊😊
What crank was used thanks 😊
we switched to the AA 4340 which is great. they are slightly better machined than the 4140. the 4140 are usually fine but also the whole combination is slightly off so sometimes it just has issues.
If you don't have machine shop access, would the shims they have for valve springs work?
no I dont think they would.
Did you make it to the Madera spring fling ?
no I need to do maintenance to the camper. doint it right now. have lots of stuff to fix
Do l have to use zink all the time I change the oil ?
if you use good oil it should be in the oil. I use Kendall which is zinc rich oil. works great in vws. Or you can use castrol with added zinc. or Shell rotella T5 which has the same.
@@Mikefngarage thank you mike
Might be Rotella T4; I believe Rotella T5 is synthetic.
@@vayabroder729 yea t5 is synthetic blend I think that even would work well in a VW.
😂thanks for putting out your videos. Are you going to do a video on carb selection for your type of builds? Im sure you have some hard earned insite..thanks again!
And if your rods have too much play side to side on the crank, what then?
I think its 8 to 12 thousands. that is a lot of play. if they have more than that something must be wrong. Never had that problem with the new parts.
I still have not found one that has an instructional build from start to finish
Is it possible to build a vw engine that will last 200k, and keep up with traffic?
Hay Mike is that your brother that you’re working with?😊