We bought our bus with a GEX engine in it and had to pull it 3 times in 12.000 miles!! It's now pretty much cooked so I'm watching all your videos to learn how to build one properly from the beginning. Thanks Mike!
GEX changed when the brothers left many years ago. Now they have a machine shop called Brothers machine shop in Ontario ca. Great machine work reasonable prices. Also check your tire sizes and trans gear ratios. This will kill a good motor. Stock gear ratios on the Bay window were 5.375 I believe with .82 4th. (that is worse than a split window) max speed is around 60. You need to change that up either by having the tire sizes increase to 205/75/14. stock was 185 80 14. Many guys have 185/75/14 so they are even shorter so max speed is around 55. Otherwise the engine will burn up quickly.
@@Mikefngarage thank you Mike, we have everything stock ratio and stock tires. The engine was looked at by several professionals and the consensus was to get rid of it. Time for a bulletproof build!
Magnesium cases run cooler plus you've already got the case so use it. It's weaker but if you buy 88mm liners thick wall they will drop right into stock case and just heads will need to be modified. Throw a 78.4mm crankshaft in it and clearance case and shuffle pin it and you'll have a 1910cc thumper motor. Base of jugs won't be machined near head bolts so should be relatively reliable. And you get 1910cc compared to 1600cc with plenty of torque. Ran this combination decades ago and didn't even get a ticket for doing a 130 mph. Was polite to cop and he couldn't believe the speed I was going. I was shocked also since speedo went all the way past 90 to the stop at zero had no clue speed I was going be knew it was fast 😁
My next dream engine will be to build my own and use one of these aluminum cases. Thanks to you and other guys build knowledge, I feel confident enough to do my own down the track. I have a nice 1916cc Stan Pobjoy (Australia) base engine in my bug now, however I would enjoy building my own from scratch. I can buy a upgraded performance new kit engine and get some further upgrade parts like a weighted crank and more custom heads, plus the aluminum case. I better start saving. In AUD dollars I am looking at around 10k in bits. I do love my beetle though, and I saved tons in the body and paint by using my trade skills there. That's my excuse anyway. I enjoy your channel.
Auto Linea, CB Performance and some of the Brazil made cases are among some of the best. I have a 94x86 case dual relief aluminum for a 2332, heads from CB, exhaust from a place in California and various other parts from other vendors. It will be test run and carbs adjusted for our TX heat.
Hey Mike I think aluminum is the way for anything not stock a new mag case is about the same after all the machine work and then it's not really new Super case comes ready for up to 86 crank and filled behind #3 and bubbled top for pressure relief
The Porsche 356 ,RSK engine, built for reliability. Were aluminum Case s . Porsche 911 early case aluminum . Late 60, an 70s magnisium were ok till 2.7, head stud s pulling out . Major oil leak s .The 80s case went back to aluminum.
Also BMW air cooled motorbike engines (type 247) were aluminum! Porsche SC engines, starting in '78, were alum and they galvanized the tub! good combo for longevity.
Now what I am talking about the oil pump fit is -- on a stock VW. it was in the design that it is suppose to GRAB THE PUMP , think back when you would have to loosen around the pump to get the pump off. Somewhere trough the years it has been changed!!!!. Hey CTs 40 HP case has replaceable cam inserts and it was a 10-10 crank? It has been torn into before????
yea that is what I thought when he tore it apart the first time. saw the bearings in the cam. But the VW on the bearings was a trip. IDK what was going on there. Maybe dealer rebuild.
@@mikethepainter In Houston there was 2 brothers that had a VW machine shop that reamed out for cam bearing inserts for 25 bucks back in 1973 . On a 40 hp. that was what happened the cam would rattle and loose oil pressure there. They would not need line bore like a 69mm stroke. The bigger the stroke the more the main bearing imprint gets !!!!!!!!
If I could afford one (school teacher here), I she thought about getting a new aluminum case. I love the original stuff, but my car is easily 65 years old. The ting that I am trying to research is what is the best engine size. I know that the 1500 is the strongest most dependable. 1600 is great all around power and dependability. But when you start goin with bigger displacements (which everyone drools over) what is the best bang for the buck? Background info. I want to drive my car as a daily driver. I don’t care at all about racing my car, EVER, and yet being able to get onto the highway without getting creamed is a great thing. I want an engine that is easy to service and will last as long as it can. Could you do a video on engine sizes PROS AMD CONS?
Check out Gene Berg in California. If nothing more get the literature and read up. Best info I ever read on what really goes on with these engines and how to make them really last. Cheers
A lot of variables, but up to about 2050cc is the sweet spot. The upper CC limit is the same cost for most parts, as most sizes of crank, cam, P&C are almost the same. The modern advantage for longevity, is that these modern engine cases are upgrade and reinforced in all the right places. So, in the old days of the 60s 70s or 80s 1500 to 1600cc was the best most durable engine. Unfortunately they are seriously underpowered when on the roads with modern vehicles. So, now we have to drive them harder to keep the dick-heads at bay. These days ... anything in the 2000cc range is the more stronger, more durable choice. Mostly because, and especially for daily drivers, you can make significantly more power .. further down in the rpm ranges. That way, you are going easier on your engine. Plus, you dont struggle on hills, and don't need to have the pedal hammered to the floor. Imho
Mike, been watching for 2 years. In B.C.Can. where C.I.P. imports, (a cdn. company) sells new cases for $1750. & up. Mostly sold out. Whats wrong with a Single relief case? I know a few top engine builders that use single port heads with 42 intakes ect. on engines above 2000cc. I enjoy your vids/knowledge & am genuinely curious about using low mileage single relief cases. Cheers .
Hi Mike, Im considering putting one of these in a 66 bus, and just spoke to the company selling here in UK. The aluminium cases are much heavier - 18kg (39.7pounds) - compared to the magnesium - 11KG (24.3 pounds). Would you be worried about this additional weight in the engine?
Hey Mike, I just bought a 67 bug and it came with 2 1600 dual port engines and the original 1500 engine. I am wondering how I would go about figuring out if these guys are still usable or whether the block/internals are bad (im brand new to this). I live in MD. I'm trying to build one of the 1600's as large as I can while maintaining as much reliability/stability as possible. I know you can't build an engine that does it all (good MPG's, good power, reliability). My biggest goal is to just get something that has good torque/acceleration to get up to speed easily on these crazy tight onramps in MD, and decent MPG's if I want to drive it like a grandma. Also I don't want to be doing a rebuild every 6 months. I want the engine to last a long time. Maybe im asking for an engine that doesn't exist. I know its a lot of info, any help is appreciated.
you will need to have the cases cleaned and checked. I think there are a few vw shops around there or in VA not too far. check thesamba.com website to see what local venders are out there
Hey Mike, how you doing staying safe I hope, listen I've been put of the game for a long while and I'm just getting back into my VW I want to build a new motor for it and I'm noticing like you mentioned the nicer used mag cases are too few and far between, so I'm going to go with an aluminum case but I wanted to know does it still need that deep head stud I think for number 3 cylinder? By the way keep up the cool vids learning a whole lot from all of the VW tubers on here, shout out to EZGZ,and Jason Classic VW
What are your sources for German parts? I am in San Diego and am having trouble (Gasket sets for engine/trans, rubber, switches, fuel pump, alternator, brushes for generators, bushings for trans, .....)?
Mike!! Can you offer some insight on an issue Im having with my '80 caddy? I am in the process of restoring it and almost jave the truck running. Today we were trying to bleed the pump and get the engine running off of its own fuel. It starts easy with starting fluid and seems to pull diesel just fine. The problem is my syart stop solenoid is not wired and we cannot find where it wires in to the key. How can I wire the start stop solenoid myelf, and do you think that is the reason why it wont start without starter fluid?
dont use starting fluid it can crack the pistons. TRy hot wiring the start stop solinoid to get the engine runnning. check to make sure the glow plugs are on with the switch.
@@Mikefngarage okay, Im working on it all day tomorrow, should I try cracking injector lines to try bleeding the system? I was going to put a new fuel filter if I can find one locally and try to get it running on its own. And do you think glow plugs matter if its warm? Im in california and its usually at least 70 degrees
Hi just stumbled on your video well I have never heard so mutch old crap ever that case you got on the bench needs to have a line bore you can see that and just to let you know cylinder heads don't drop valve seats they drop valves .
Or you could avoid all of this by just stuffing a subaru in the bug. More power, reliable. But this line of thinking will lead you to just buying the entire subaru and having an entire car which is faster and lasts longer.
Reynolds 517 hp Turbocharged EFI EJ swap can barely outrun the Real Street guys and they are All Motor on Carbs and Pump fuel 😂 . EJs are cheap and affordable that’s pretty much it
Worked on those things over 30 years Front bumper to exhaust tips It makes me sad to see people on the internet trying to be experts Which I am not The only useful info on VW s is the VW book for idiots Which I was and still am
Yet you claim in your earlier comment to not be an expert. Surely he knows somewhat of what he speaks. Although I've noticed as far as the VW community goes much is not in universal agreement. 8 vs 10mm studs is one place I notice differing views.
![MISSING: SLIM SHADY [Expanded Mourner’s Edition Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xh8qgHrOO1g/mqdefault.jpg)
Please comment good or bad I like to hear what you have to say. Plus like or dislike the comment you agree with your opinion counts.
Does the case corode from inside because its magnasium??
Love the info in the video. Posted a question and possible video idea. Thank you for the channel
We bought our bus with a GEX engine in it and had to pull it 3 times in 12.000 miles!! It's now pretty much cooked so I'm watching all your videos to learn how to build one properly from the beginning. Thanks Mike!
GEX changed when the brothers left many years ago. Now they have a machine shop called Brothers machine shop in Ontario ca. Great machine work reasonable prices. Also check your tire sizes and trans gear ratios. This will kill a good motor. Stock gear ratios on the Bay window were 5.375 I believe with .82 4th. (that is worse than a split window) max speed is around 60. You need to change that up either by having the tire sizes increase to 205/75/14. stock was 185 80 14. Many guys have 185/75/14 so they are even shorter so max speed is around 55. Otherwise the engine will burn up quickly.
@@Mikefngarage thank you Mike, we have everything stock ratio and stock tires. The engine was looked at by several professionals and the consensus was to get rid of it. Time for a bulletproof build!
@@onehappykombi yea and put some bigger tire on there
Magnesium cases run cooler plus you've already got the case so use it. It's weaker but if you buy 88mm liners thick wall they will drop right into stock case and just heads will need to be modified. Throw a 78.4mm crankshaft in it and clearance case and shuffle pin it and you'll have a 1910cc thumper motor. Base of jugs won't be machined near head bolts so should be relatively reliable. And you get 1910cc compared to 1600cc with plenty of torque. Ran this combination decades ago and didn't even get a ticket for doing a 130 mph. Was polite to cop and he couldn't believe the speed I was going. I was shocked also since speedo went all the way past 90 to the stop at zero had no clue speed I was going be knew it was fast 😁
My next dream engine will be to build my own and use one of these aluminum cases. Thanks to you and other guys build knowledge, I feel confident enough to do my own down the track. I have a nice 1916cc Stan Pobjoy (Australia) base engine in my bug now, however I would enjoy building my own from scratch. I can buy a upgraded performance new kit engine and get some further upgrade parts like a weighted crank and more custom heads, plus the aluminum case. I better start saving. In AUD dollars I am looking at around 10k in bits. I do love my beetle though, and I saved tons in the body and paint by using my trade skills there. That's my excuse anyway. I enjoy your channel.
Auto Linea, CB Performance and some of the Brazil made cases are among some of the best. I have a 94x86 case dual relief aluminum for a 2332, heads from CB, exhaust from a place in California and various other parts from other vendors. It will be test run and carbs adjusted for our TX heat.
oh yea that is going to be a great engine....shuffle pinned so it will last a while. Plus all the support and aluminum just last longer.
Hey Mike I think aluminum is the way for anything not stock a new mag case is about the same after all the machine work and then it's not really new Super case comes ready for up to 86 crank and filled behind #3 and bubbled top for pressure relief
The Porsche 356 ,RSK engine, built for reliability. Were aluminum Case s . Porsche 911 early case aluminum . Late 60, an 70s magnisium were ok till 2.7, head stud s pulling out . Major oil leak s .The 80s case went back to aluminum.
Also BMW air cooled motorbike engines (type 247) were aluminum! Porsche SC engines, starting in '78, were alum and they galvanized the tub! good combo for longevity.
To paint or not to paint. And whats the best method to handle pits and holes in these old cases. I read somewhere to use JB epoxy stuff (hi-temp)
Now what I am talking about the oil pump fit is -- on a stock VW. it was in the design that it is suppose to GRAB THE PUMP , think back when you would have to loosen around the pump to get the pump off. Somewhere trough the years it has been changed!!!!. Hey CTs 40 HP case has replaceable cam inserts and it was a 10-10 crank? It has been torn into before????
yea that is what I thought when he tore it apart the first time. saw the bearings in the cam. But the VW on the bearings was a trip. IDK what was going on there. Maybe dealer rebuild.
@@mikethepainter In Houston there was 2 brothers that had a VW machine shop that reamed out for cam bearing inserts for 25 bucks back in 1973 . On a 40 hp. that was what happened the cam would rattle and loose oil pressure there. They would not need line bore like a 69mm stroke. The bigger the stroke the more the main bearing imprint gets !!!!!!!!
If I could afford one (school teacher here), I she thought about getting a new aluminum case. I love the original stuff, but my car is easily 65 years old. The ting that I am trying to research is what is the best engine size. I know that the 1500 is the strongest most dependable. 1600 is great all around power and dependability. But when you start goin with bigger displacements (which everyone drools over) what is the best bang for the buck? Background info. I want to drive my car as a daily driver. I don’t care at all about racing my car, EVER, and yet being able to get onto the highway without getting creamed is a great thing. I want an engine that is easy to service and will last as long as it can. Could you do a video on engine sizes PROS AMD CONS?
1776 seems to be the best option for power and reliability.
Check out Gene Berg in California. If nothing more get the literature and read up.
Best info I ever read on what really goes on with these engines and how to make them really last. Cheers
A lot of variables, but up to about 2050cc is the sweet spot.
The upper CC limit is the same cost for most parts, as most sizes of crank, cam, P&C are almost the same.
The modern advantage for longevity, is that these modern engine cases are upgrade and reinforced in all the right places.
So, in the old days of the 60s 70s or 80s 1500 to 1600cc was the best most durable engine.
Unfortunately they are seriously underpowered when on the roads with modern vehicles.
So, now we have to drive them harder to keep the dick-heads at bay.
These days ... anything in the 2000cc range is the more stronger, more durable choice.
Mostly because, and especially for daily drivers, you can make significantly more power .. further down in the rpm ranges. That way, you are going easier on your engine.
Plus, you dont struggle on hills, and don't need to have the pedal hammered to the floor.
Imho
Mike, been watching for 2 years. In B.C.Can. where C.I.P. imports, (a cdn. company) sells new cases for $1750. & up. Mostly sold out. Whats wrong with a Single relief case? I know a few top engine builders that use single port heads with 42 intakes ect. on engines above 2000cc. I enjoy your vids/knowledge & am genuinely curious about using low mileage single relief cases. Cheers .
what size is the oil port for the sensor on the aluminum case
My mechanic just built me an 1835cc with an aluminum block do you think that was a good choice?
Just saw this. I have a as 41 case from Germany. It was built at gene Berg's shop in n 91 still running. Thing has dellortos.. it's in my 13 window .
Hi Mike, Im considering putting one of these in a 66 bus, and just spoke to the company selling here in UK. The aluminium cases are much heavier - 18kg (39.7pounds) - compared to the magnesium - 11KG (24.3 pounds). Would you be worried about this additional weight in the engine?
Hey Mike, I just bought a 67 bug and it came with 2 1600 dual port engines and the original 1500 engine. I am wondering how I would go about figuring out if these guys are still usable or whether the block/internals are bad (im brand new to this). I live in MD. I'm trying to build one of the 1600's as large as I can while maintaining as much reliability/stability as possible. I know you can't build an engine that does it all (good MPG's, good power, reliability). My biggest goal is to just get something that has good torque/acceleration to get up to speed easily on these crazy tight onramps in MD, and decent MPG's if I want to drive it like a grandma. Also I don't want to be doing a rebuild every 6 months. I want the engine to last a long time. Maybe im asking for an engine that doesn't exist. I know its a lot of info, any help is appreciated.
you will need to have the cases cleaned and checked. I think there are a few vw shops around there or in VA not too far. check thesamba.com website to see what local venders are out there
Hey Mike, how you doing staying safe I hope, listen I've been put of the game for a long while and I'm just getting back into my VW I want to build a new motor for it and I'm noticing like you mentioned the nicer used mag cases are too few and far between, so I'm going to go with an aluminum case but I wanted to know does it still need that deep head stud I think for number 3 cylinder? By the way keep up the cool vids learning a whole lot from all of the VW tubers on here, shout out to EZGZ,and Jason Classic VW
I have a '74 1200 bug, it's dual relief. Now, what kind of case is this? 🤷♂️🤷♂️
What are your sources for German parts? I am in San Diego and am having trouble (Gasket sets for engine/trans, rubber, switches, fuel pump, alternator, brushes for generators, bushings for trans, .....)?
You forgot that they re-enforce the metal on the #3 piston position.
oh yea true I think I forgot a lot of stuff that is on that aluminum case. I dont know if I mentioned about shuffle pins either.
Mike!! Can you offer some insight on an issue Im having with my '80 caddy?
I am in the process of restoring it and almost jave the truck running. Today we were trying to bleed the pump and get the engine running off of its own fuel. It starts easy with starting fluid and seems to pull diesel just fine. The problem is my syart stop solenoid is not wired and we cannot find where it wires in to the key.
How can I wire the start stop solenoid myelf, and do you think that is the reason why it wont start without starter fluid?
dont use starting fluid it can crack the pistons. TRy hot wiring the start stop solinoid to get the engine runnning. check to make sure the glow plugs are on with the switch.
@@Mikefngarage okay, Im working on it all day tomorrow, should I try cracking injector lines to try bleeding the system? I was going to put a new fuel filter if I can find one locally and try to get it running on its own.
And do you think glow plugs matter if its warm? Im in california and its usually at least 70 degrees
@@rajgill7576 glow plug circuit needs to work too or it will take a long time to start
good stuff
I subscribed to your channel just now. Now i will have to examine your content.
darrin has good stuff there are not very many engine guys. so I decided to jump in as well. just to help you guys learn what you can.
big island way far to have my new motor shipped $1300 cb performance 8 month wait 3 to go
Hi just stumbled on your video well I have never heard so mutch old crap ever that case you got on the bench needs to have a line bore you can see that and just to let you know cylinder heads don't drop valve seats they drop valves .
The aluminium cases are a lot heavier
yes and much stronger plus shuffle pinned super strong. more like type 4.
No good for race cars
Or you could avoid all of this by just stuffing a subaru in the bug. More power, reliable. But this line of thinking will lead you to just buying the entire subaru and having an entire car which is faster and lasts longer.
😅
Funny points!
It’s also funny to think of your Subaru Outback still on the road in 65 years. Yeah don’t think so. May already be in the junkyard now 😄
Reynolds 517 hp Turbocharged EFI EJ swap can barely outrun the Real Street guys and they are All Motor on Carbs and Pump fuel 😂 . EJs are cheap and affordable that’s pretty much it
A reliable Subaru. When did they start making those? When was the last time you saw a 25 year old Subaru driving around?
Worked on those things over 30 years
Front bumper to exhaust tips
It makes me sad to see people on the internet trying to be experts
Which I am not
The only useful info on VW s is the VW book for idiots
Which I was and still am
That was the 1st book (on auto mechanics) that I ever read. Fantastic resource for old VW gear heads
This man knows nothing about which he talks
explain yourself if you think that.
Must be a GEX fan.
@@christianmccollum1028too funny motor blow company. ha ha.
Yet you claim in your earlier comment to not be an expert. Surely he knows somewhat of what he speaks. Although I've noticed as far as the VW community goes much is not in universal agreement. 8 vs 10mm studs is one place I notice differing views.