I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
I took mine apart because the lights weren't working. Man what a headache. Should have marked the pieces with a line when I pulled them out. Loaded with white grease and couldn't tell what Was what until I cleaned it and forgot how it came out. Your video help me figure it by ohming. Thanks
Thanks. Great info. I have a eX mark quest with a plastic 5 terminal switch w/o any letters. Would you tell me how to test for connections. Very frustrating. I cannot tell where ground , solenoid, battery etc. are. Thank you
PROBLEM! I followed your great directions and my key switch tests good. The starter solenoid is new but does not click when I turn to "Start". If I turn the key to "Run", the only way I can start the engine is to jump from the battery to the starter. The engine runs fine until I turn the key to "stop". Then the engine hesitates but won't stop. I need to disconnect the plug wires to stop the engine. I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE HELP. Thanks!
I have a similar problem with my 2003 cub cadet lg1050. It started once with the new solenoid, ran great, backfired when turned off but it won't key start again/no click. I've ckd wire continuity all seem fine. I must be missing something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks alot fixed mine by watching your video. Its ok for rich people they give it to mower repair man but for people like me we appreciate your help. thankyou again please make more videos, nicely explained,
I don't think it is clear enough. When you hook up G and M with the switch in the off position you should get a beep, right? Then when you test for A1, do you leave G connected and remove M and put it on A1 for the key in off position for a beep?
Hi, great video. If you want to connect an hour meter to my lawn tractor, which only starts when it is turned on, what positive wire should I connect to? I have the block with the lights. Thank you
At least on mine, the lights are hooked up to the alternator and only turn on when the alternator is running. You will need a very good voltage regulator but that would be my bet for most accurate engine running time.
I replaced a switch that had the headlight switch with one that had the reverse override position and it blew the main fuse on the mower. Does that even make sense? After two fuses I put the other switch back on it and it doesn't blow the fuse. I tested the switch that blew the fuses and in the on position it only connects B to A1. In my mind it would have to be connecting B to something else like M or G in order for that to happen. The switch with the headlight position works and doesn't blow the fuse. Am I missing something here?
Your videos are very helpful. Just bought a china made off,on, start key switch ,with no wiring diagram. I'm 72 years old ,and im making a snapper rider into a mobility scooter. How can I get a diagram? 7:15
On my Snapper RER ignition switch, I have B S M A B which may be same as the metal one you referenced in a prior video like the MTD (last) one you only showed here. What is that link? The A and B is for?
They are different between mower brands but usually it’s usually the charging system or headlights. Also the carburetor after backfire solenoid often runs through A1 or A2.
Thanks for the video! what does the A1 port do? 2nd diagram, I have continuity on (start b&a1) but not on (run b&a1) mower cranks and then dies when let off the key, if i wiggle or keep holding the key it will run for a minute and then eventually die..
Im not sure what mower you have but it may be running the after backfire solenoid on the carb. That’s why it dies when you let off due to it cutting power to that solenoid.
@@metalinmotionshop Thanks, that makes sense. I hear that solenoid click right before engine turns, but without b&a1 in run working, it may kill power to that. it a Craftsman YT3000 917289341
@@Me-gy2tg now take the old one apart and scrapup the copper to a shine and see if it works then.. mark the switch with knife or pin so you get it back together right.
Symptoms I’ve seen are: You have to wiggle the key in the start position to get the engine to crank. You have to wiggle the key in the off position to get the engine to turn off. Sometimes you won’t have certain accessories getting power when they should. On some models your battery charging can be affected by a bad key switch.
Also would the hour meter staying on while in the stop position be a bad switch? And what does the Icon for the running position actually represent? Dumb question but I cant make sense of what the design is supposed to represent. Thanks Cheers!@@metalinmotionshop
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
I'm teaching my boy and you made me look like I know what I'm talking about. Thank you
I took mine apart because the lights weren't working. Man what a headache. Should have marked the pieces with a line when I pulled them out. Loaded with white grease and couldn't tell what Was what until I cleaned it and forgot how it came out. Your video help me figure it by ohming. Thanks
This was so beyond helpful
Thanks. Great info. I have a eX mark quest with a plastic 5 terminal switch w/o any letters. Would you tell me how to test for connections. Very frustrating. I cannot tell where ground , solenoid, battery etc. are. Thank you
Trying to pin down why my 0 turn jd won’t start. It’s got 6 prongs.
G M
B ?
G
And sixth one unmarked as well.
Why is there two grounds
Dam dude, you go way too fast to follow you. Show what leads you are touching to the camera. Thank you tbo for the info.
Seriously,slow down!!!!
Dude.... Wayy too quick lol... If you could just do this at half speed that would be great
Actually after running through all these tests 20 times, the switch turns out to be good. Still it will only crank when I jump the solenoid...
PROBLEM! I followed your great directions and my key switch tests good. The starter solenoid is new but does not click when I turn to "Start". If I turn the key to "Run", the only way I can start the engine is to jump from the battery to the starter. The engine runs fine until I turn the key to "stop". Then the engine hesitates but won't stop. I need to disconnect the plug wires to stop the engine. I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE HELP. Thanks!
I have a similar problem with my 2003 cub cadet lg1050. It started once with the new solenoid, ran great, backfired when turned off but it won't key start again/no click. I've ckd wire continuity all seem fine. I must be missing something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I'm having same problem?
I also having same problem，can anyone help😢
Thanks alot fixed mine by watching your video. Its ok for rich people they give it to mower repair man but for people like me we appreciate your help. thankyou again please make more videos, nicely explained,
My key switch on a Husqvarna zero-turn has a shortage
Thank you so much for this video! Very clear instructions for testing! It's channels like this that keep us DIYers up and running. Thank you again!
I don't think it is clear enough. When you hook up G and M with the switch in the off position you should get a beep, right? Then when you test for A1, do you leave G connected and remove M and put it on A1 for the key in off position for a beep?
Hi, great video. If you want to connect an hour meter to my lawn tractor, which only starts when it is turned on, what positive wire should I connect to? I have the block with the lights. Thank you
At least on mine, the lights are hooked up to the alternator and only turn on when the alternator is running. You will need a very good voltage regulator but that would be my bet for most accurate engine running time.
Thanks for the video. Really helped me troubleshoot my mower. Turned out to be the blade interlock.
Why would your tractor start when you touch the negative battery cable to it
A very nice well prepared and clear video. Thanks!
Excellent Video...Thanks...maybe go just a tad slower next time!
I replaced a switch that had the headlight switch with one that had the reverse override position and it blew the main fuse on the mower. Does that even make sense? After two fuses I put the other switch back on it and it doesn't blow the fuse. I tested the switch that blew the fuses and in the on position it only connects B to A1. In my mind it would have to be connecting B to something else like M or G in order for that to happen. The switch with the headlight position works and doesn't blow the fuse. Am I missing something here?
Excellent video, thank you for sharing!
Your videos are very helpful. Just bought a china made off,on, start key switch ,with no wiring diagram. I'm 72 years old ,and im making a snapper rider into a mobility scooter. How can I get a diagram? 7:15
On my Snapper RER ignition switch, I have B S M A B which may be same as the metal one you referenced in a prior video like the MTD (last) one you only showed here. What is that link? The A and B is for?
On the plug side should any of them get continuity when checked against the ground plug?
Hey could someone please tell me what are A1 and A2 used for and what does it usually run to??
They are different between mower brands but usually it’s usually the charging system or headlights. Also the carburetor after backfire solenoid often runs through A1 or A2.
its a cub cadet rzt 54 2009 . i have the 7 prong ignition switch the over ride one. every letter on his is how mines is
Is l for lights and if so what color wire if I don't have lights?
Thanks for the video! what does the A1 port do? 2nd diagram, I have continuity on (start b&a1) but not on (run b&a1) mower cranks and then dies when let off the key, if i wiggle or keep holding the key it will run for a minute and then eventually die..
Im not sure what mower you have but it may be running the after backfire solenoid on the carb. That’s why it dies when you let off due to it cutting power to that solenoid.
@@metalinmotionshop Thanks, that makes sense. I hear that solenoid click right before engine turns, but without b&a1 in run working, it may kill power to that. it a Craftsman YT3000 917289341
@@metalinmotionshop Finally received the ignition switch, swapped them out, and it's running perfectly now. Thanks for the help
@@Me-gy2tg now take the old one apart and scrapup the copper to a shine and see if it works then.. mark the switch with knife or pin so you get it back together right.
Very well explanations, thank you very much.
A great video - really helpfull. Thanks
Could you explain would be the symptoms of a bad switch.
Symptoms I’ve seen are:
You have to wiggle the key in the start position to get the engine to crank.
You have to wiggle the key in the off position to get the engine to turn off.
Sometimes you won’t have certain accessories getting power when they should. On some models your battery charging can be affected by a bad key switch.
Also would the hour meter staying on while in the stop position be a bad switch? And what does the Icon for the running position actually represent? Dumb question but I cant make sense of what the design is supposed to represent. Thanks Cheers!@@metalinmotionshop
My multimeter has no sound. Might you tell me what I can expect from the readout when testing the last Husqvarna switch ? Thank You.
Me too. What's the answer?
My A2 + L isn't getting a beep at all on the run position but does on the reverse position. What does that mean?
Mine also...
Thanks for the video...
Thanks so much great video
would you tell me the model # of the Klein tester u are using in this video please. Great video.
Its the CL390. 400 amp AC and DC.
@@metalinmotionshop Thank you very much for the very well done video & the information. Have a great day,
Thank you
Damn this was more complicated than I thought. Good thing you made this video as a reference. Thank you! :)