How to Test a Riding Lawnmower Key Switch
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- Опубликовано: 4 янв 2020
- Step by Step!
Today I'll be showing you how to test a riding lawn mower keyswitch.
You'll need a multi-meter to perform these tests!
Have a riding lawn mower that won't start?
Simply follow the steps in this video & you'll determine whether or not it's the key switch that's causing the issue.
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Thank you so much for this video. I switched from a Koehler Courage to a Briggs and Stratton on my mower I changed out the entire wiring harness except for the switch. After watching you video I discovered that the prongs on my mower’s switch were in different positions than the donor mowers switch. I rearranged the connections in the plug and then it started.
I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to testing electrical components.. With that being said, this video was really easy to follow and helped me confirm I had a bad ignition switch. Thanks for dumbing it down enough for me to follow! Lol
Thanks for watching!
I agree thanks for breaking it down step by step, very good.
Well i don’t have a beep meter so what am i supposed to be looking for if i use a regular meter without a beep
Overall, a great, well done, easy to follow, and informative video. Thank you! FYI, for those that don't know, what you showed on the multimeter that you did not use is the diode test position, not the ohms/resistance position. The diode position, as you likely know, does check for resistance, and in a circuit without a diode, would work fine to check resistance in either direction.
Thank you for helping me figure out what was *not* wrong with my riding mower. I have a Craftsman T110 (with a 7-prong switch and Reverse Mode Control Module exactly like the one in your other video). The battery is getting old so I've been jump-starting with my car, and this time I got nothing, so I touched the jumper-cables directly to the starter and it cranked! I thought I'd go ahead and mow my yard and figure out the problem later, but the engine shut off when the PTO was engaged.
I was able to test the relevant switch connections (thanks to your video) and determine that the switch was OK. That (most likely) left the fuse and the solenoid. The fuse was good BUT the end where the wires go into the fuse holder had corroded in half because it was located directly under the battery's electrolyte overflow port! I got another fuse-holder from my older (junked) Craftsman, replaced (and relocated) it, and it's running like new again.
By the way, when I pulled the battery out, I noticed that they no longer use a plastic battery pan. They now have two steel brackets (mine were corroded but still had plenty of meat on them), so I removed the corrosion with a drill and circular wire brush and repainted them. Darn, I should've tried the old plastic pan in my newer mower. Oh well, next weekend.
Thank you. The video was exactly what I needed. Thanks for getting right to the point and not dumbing it down. (58 yr old female)
Great video! I couldn’t have found it at a better time. Issues w my JD zero turn, I changed out the parking brake switch which was
hit or miss, thought I had it figured out, but machine still only started when it felt like it (on rainy days not when I needed it).
I’m looking through RUclips and this comes up, and I must say, I never thought of an intermittent switch, thinking it’s all or nothing. Took day off to get it going, and hopefully mow my large lawn which is in the grass height range of a person who’s having house foreclosed on, or in need of goats.
Thanks!!
Very helpful. I'm going to use what I learned tomorrow and troubleshoot to see if my switch is causing my intermittent starting issues.
I was able to use this video to get my mower started. I had to turn the key a little less than all the way to the right. Thanks!
My dude, my very good buddy - Greetings from the Highlands of Scotland! Just picked up two ride-ons today for a steal and one of them sold just because it wouldn't start.
RUclips is amazing - watched your vid, was able to jump the switch as the spring start position had no continuity and BOOM she runs! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching, glad it helped. Cheers from Ontario Canada!
Thank you. You did a great job in your explanation. I turn the key on my 0 turn lawnmower and don’t make any noise, I’m going to check the switch.
I have just started watching your videos. Very informative. Thanks. I was searching through your videos to find one on a riding mower that has a starter motor which stays engaged. The statrer motor heats up then wont turn the motor over. I have watched your key switch test and the solenoid test. I bought a MTD 38" 12.5 hp Briggs.
One of the best explained key switch videos that I have seen. The key switches for the older Cub Cadets do not have any letters on the switch itself - So you are “SOL” if you don’t have access to the electrical wiring diagram and Cub Cadet did not make it any easier on the 682 & 1710 model tractors with the KT17 Kohler engines and by them running the wires towards the very front and the very back of the tractor.
My dilemma is following after a previous owner who eliminated the safety switches and employing very marginal wiring techniques to put it nicely for RUclips(LOL).
Hope you guys are doing well. Best Regards From Mark In Kentucky.
Just what I was looking for - clear, concise explanation. Thanks!
Thank you very much for this!!! I have the same exact key switch and because of your video I found out why mine was bad!! :-)
Great vid. Now I have to figure out which wire goes to proper terminal. You have great content and your presentation is first class.
Thanks for watching!
Thx Brother, you really helped me sort out a problem with the ignition on my skidoo. Excellent explanation👍
You have a gift of being able to explain things precisely and clearly, while demonstrating exactly what you are doing...which is true of all of your videos..that is a talent few can get to..thank-you!
Just seeing this now, thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching!
Awesome job explaining. Quick and to the point.
Thanks, exactly what i was looking for. Failed switch 1966 Sears Custom 6. BTW no relays and generator is starter motor too. Thanks again.
Im so glad I found your channel? Very informative and straight to the point!
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video! precise with tips and a great resource! Thank you.
So well explained! I needed this video.
Like your video! Next one show them how to re solder the copper rivet to the plug terminal! I feel these lawnmower manufacturers will start making these starter switches cheaper just like these new plastic transmission housings and powder metal and plastic gears! If they have it their way you’ll buy a tractor every year or buy parts every year! Tractor I bought for 800.00 in 2013 ( Murray) cost 1499 at Walmart now with oil pump and fuel injection ( more crap to brake down) peace!
thanks great video , you explained it so easy and video was great.
Thanks for the video. Saved to my small engines folder.
Thanks for watching!
You are a good teacher now I understand
Cheers from the UK - Nice clear & precise!
Thanks for watching!
Great video. I used your info to test my ignition switch and solenoid. Both tested good, however my JD D140 still won’t start. No click or anything. I can jump the solenoid leads and she’ll fire up though. Any suggestions on what to try next would be appreciated. Thanks.
Great video. Thank you!
Very helpful, thank you
Excellent, thank you.
Excellent video!! Clearest one I've seen about testing switches.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much, a very usefull video !...
I did enjoy the facts presentation all though I have some questions
In your discussion of diagnosis of the circuit and or circuits I am trying to use a few toggle switches in place of the keyed ignition switch and using the existing harness and it prongs to install these toggles the machine I I have is an arians probably not important however not all these things have the same quirk's
If indeed you may have some insight to this particular problem I would be thankful
Thank you in advance
I have an old sears 10 xl that cranks but no start. Hoping it’s something as simple as the ignition switch. Thanks for the info.
Excellent video especially for we "challenged" but willing homeowners!
Thanks for watching
Excellent video!!! Thanks!!
Thanks for watching!
I found my lawn mower had a dead battery today, when removing the ground wire, I noticed the ground wire would ark when touching the ground terminal and this is with everything in the off position. Would a key switch cause the problem, or should I start looking somewhere else first. Something is drawing power. Awesome videos.
I dont even have a lawnmower but this was oddly satisfying
Thanks for watching!
Good video eliminator
Thanks for watching!
That was one of the best videos I've seen on anything. Kudos. Getting one of those multimeters with the sound effect. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
clear and thorough. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I 've recently had a problem starting my John deere. I 've noticed the solenoid is hot even with the key in the off position. It's a new switch and solenoid. I'm thinking where I hooked the wires to the solenoid should possible be switched. Any advice ?
I’ve got a 7 prong switch. Is there two grounds? I have two prongs and a G is between both of them. I am getting multiple confirmation of continuity between the two posts resting between G and M in the off position. I lose continuity on one of the suspected G prongs in the start position but have continuity on the other. Aswell as B and S. I have a strong suspicion my ignition is bad. I can run a positive cable straight from the battery to the charging post on the solenoid and it tries to start. ( I have a pull behind bush hog that doesn’t have safety switches and the like. )
How did you know i needed a refresher on key switch's . I just got one in on trade that will not do anything when you turn the key. I haven't look at it yet so this will help.
Thanks
bob
Thanks for watching Bob!
Good day Boy interesting video. I like the way you go in detail. Simple switch like this, shows were wires go. Thanks The Ford is running good ? LOL Thanks
It's running great, thanks for watching!
Thank you sir ! 😀
very very helpfull. thanx so much!!
Thanks for watching!
I have a bad connection between the ground and the magneto on my key switch, do I need to replace it or fix it?
question i have a 6 term key switch for a toro timecutter brand new i tried to test the battery to solenoid test and no beeping ?? its a brand new switch ??
I wish I knew 1/2 of what you forgot video was very helpful .
I have an old HOnda switch fro a 3009 riding mower. The back of the switch has 5 wires connected and there are numbers but no letters. How do I determine what is what?
Thank You!!
Every good....Thanks
Morning from the UK,, I have a Ransome Parkway Mower with a Diesel Kubota motor,, no problem starting, Ignition Glowplugs all work,,, start when turned to Start position, When you loose the key and it springs back to run,,,,, hay ho it stops,,,, it will continue to run if you hold it in the start position but the starter is still running ,,,,,done all the continuity tests I can think of,,,, Battery is good because the thing starts,,,, no cutout switched because it starts,,,, Im thinking starter switch but don't fancy spending £90 for a new one before being able to test ,,,,,,,Any suggestions Please Thanks from Bob Ecc
Does the ignition switch just need to have continuity? Or does it need 12V ?
My cars ignition switch reads 9vs on all the leads
My switch has a pole marked C for coil, B for battery, S for solenoid then another poll marked S, and L for lights, then G for ground. Does it matter which of the S poles I use for testing. I get no continuity between the B pole or rather of the S poles. Should I assume the switch is bad?
well done, Excellent explanation!!
Thanks for watching!
❗❤❗, thanks for making great videos❗✌❗
My key when I turn it on I get fire to the coil then when I go to start it loses fire it’s a p218g thanks for your help
Well explained demonstration on checking out a key switch. Especially liked the close up view of testing the key switch, must be a different camera than you have used previously?
Thanks, and no my standard camcorder! Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
how can we delete switch with just on off switch or button because i dont need 12v starter anymore and switch is broken
Thanks
What about if your multimeter doesn't have the continuity setting?
U are the GOAT!
Finally somebody that can make some damn brain cells connect !!!
Nice!
Great job! I hear a click but no start with my mower. I have replaced the solenoid which is under the seat area twice, the last time about a year ago. Interesting in that a few times when it did that, it WOULD start if I hooked my 22 Volt/22 amp charger cable to the battery posts. I purchased s new battery yesterday, after the old battery failed a load test. Suggestions?
Starter maybe? The bendix was stuck on mine. I took the starter off and lubed the gear that goes up and down to engage the flywheel. Just an idea.
THANK'S
One last question: since there is not an alternator on a riding lawn mower, what replaces this to keep the battery charged? Sorry that this is an unrelated question, just one that one that has got my curiosity. Also, thanks for your comprehensive how to videos - they are very helpful!
Mowers have a stator and voltage regulator that keeps the battery charged
I wish i had known this last week.
I recently went thru this. The switch was okay, but the contact between the plug and the switch wasn't making good contact. Some aerosol electrical cleaner did the job.
So I did this test and all them passed just like your switch did. I’m not sure why you said your switch is bad other than the spring loaded start .
I check my switch all test pass with exception of G to Switch body in run position ,should I replaced or is a good switch?
The g should always have continuity to the switch body, it sounds like it it passed b to s and there's no continuity between g and s then it should work
I have the same key but it does not have a g and has a r
Why do you call the connection between the B Battery and the L or A Light or Auxiliary post the Run Circuit? Does this connection keep the engine running once it is started? You don't need voltage to keep engine running do you?
No you don't need voltage, but it supplies the battery to the lights, and then the magneto charges the battery while it's running.
Hello there I have a switch in a 73 hodaka that I get oums when switch is off, does that mean it is going straight to ground?
Thanks Ty
Depends what 2 terminals you're testing. When it's off, the G and the M should have continuity, as the magneto (coil) is being grounded to stop the spark.
Everything seems fine when I run all the tests, but I don’t get a continuity tone when I connect ground to the housing of the switch. What does that mean? Also, does it matter that I have a seven post switch (Cub Cadet 3185)?
Depending on the design, some grounds aren't connected to the base, you'll see on the switch I tested that it was connected. And a 7 post switch shouldn't matter, it just has an extra connection for ground or an aux like a light amp meter or something
Be careful out there. I am working on an old Simplicity 5212.5. Has a bad key switch (its the exact switch shown in this video). I ran to the local auto parts to see if they had one sure enough they did. My OEM key switch had no letters on the back. The key switch from the auto parts store does. The posts all lined up perfectly. I did not find out until trying to crank the mower that the posts are in the same positions, but they are not arranged the same. It is cranking over but not firing and the key switch was getting bad hot. Ordered an OEM key switch now. All 5 prong switches are not the same, even though they plug up.
Thanks for the notice!
@@EliminatorPerformance Not a problem. Thank you for the videos! I have learned a ton. I am sure most people were aware of this, but I was not, so maybe it will help someone down the road!
Thank you man, I’m still having trouble with mine. Any chance you have a few minutes to spare some knowledge? My limited knowledge says solenoid or switch. I have a multimeter, test light, small leads and battery tender. My battery is showing 12.5 , 12.6ish.
I don't have time, but I have a video! ruclips.net/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/видео.html
If your battery is showing between 12.4-12.9 with out the vehicle running its a good battery. Below 11.8 it's probably going bad or you can get the battery charged.
Everything checks out good 👍 when I try to start my Kohler tractor it won't turn over is there more switches under the battery?
Search Eliminator Performance solenoid next!
@@EliminatorPerformance so I used my battery charger on the starter and that works fine just need to fine out whats wrong between the ignition switch and or wiring that's goes to the starter or is the starter on the solenoid bad? Because before it used to click a few times then it would start last year when I had it running now it won't do anything I really enjoy your videos
@@affordableprofitable1514 I have same issue.
I have the same problem on mine, try replacing the solenoid
Have a John Deere D105 and there is no continuity between B and L .
I also have the same lack of continuity between B and S.
The solenoid is not clicking either when the key is turned.
I can jump the solenoid and the engine will start and run.
I am really confused... Can you tell me if the switch or the solenoid should be replaced?
Thanks, Norm
If you have no continuity between B and S then your keyswitch is not sending B Battery to S Solenoid. If you did have continuity, but still no 12v at the solenoid charge wire, then you likely have a bad safety switch. I would recommend replacing the switch.
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank You Very Much
Hey like many any others have said, thanks for this video. Not sure what I'd do otherwise.
I have a 5-prong switch. No continuity from ground to the base of the switch. But like you've said in other comments, it all depends on the switch, right? Also, the diagram for my mower shows B + L + S for the START mode. Trying B + S indicated no continuity, is there a way to test B + L + S?
If there's no connection between B and S when turning the key, then 12v (from B battery) is not sent to S (starter solenoid). In that case, L would be lights, or auxiliary as it's sometimes called, and should only be getting continuity when the key is on the run position in the middle. And yes, depending on the switch, some don't ground to the base, so that's fine if you don't get continuity between G and the base of the starter.
@@EliminatorPerformance Hey thanks for the reply! Sorry, just to make sure I understand. My wiring diagram shows:
OFF = G + M (Ground/Magneto)
RUN = B + L (Battery/Lights)
START = B + L + S (Battery/Lights/Start)
...so if I test just the B + S terminals, without L, and don't hear the continuity beep, that indicates 12v is not getting to the starter solenoid? If so, I think that would make sense. That's assuming I have a similar setup to your videos on troubleshooting starting issues -- I have a 3-prong solenoid, and I couldn't get any voltage reading for the small wire (mine is purple/black, not white) going to the solenoid
My key switch is plastic on the outside. how would I test that how you tested the out side of the switch
Maybe to the base where the threads are, that would be your ground. So the other connections shouldn't have continuity to ground when in the run position.
Yo, the first video of 2020!
Thanks for watching!
I tested my key switch and it passed all the tests but when I tested ground to the base of the key switch there was no continuity. Does that mean its bad? 7 prong unit.Great video!!!
No sometimes they don't connect to the base, as shown on mine the connector extends out towards the base so there's continuity there. Others don't, so your key should be fine!
This test worked very well until I tested continuity the G on the terminal to the metal body and there was no continuity
I'm guessing that since the housing on my key switch is plastic that the test you ran checking to make sure there is not a short between the ground post and the metal housing on your test key switch, is a non issue for me - right?
Correct
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you!
When I connected g to the base of the key switch it didn’t make a sound
That's ok, some don't because the ground tab doesn't connect to the base like mine did.
At 5:34, when I touch the base of the key switch, I don’t get anything. No sound. What’s the issue
You may not have a ground tab that's connected to the base, no issue.
Everything was fine besides the second to last test. Where it went from ground to the side of the ignition switch there was no contunity does this mean the switch Is bad?
No not necessarily, it depends how your switch is wired. On this switch, you can see the ground tab is linked with a piece of metal to the housing.
@@EliminatorPerformance thanks! For the Awesome video and quick response.
On mine when key is in off position, G to A beeps as well as G to M. Is it bad? Will that prevent it from not even cranking?
No that's ok, because when you shut it off it's grounding the magneto (M) as well as the lights (A) so that function is working properly
Ok, well it must be a fuse. Any videos on checking them out? I have 3 big black ones next to the solenoid. Appreciate it and all your vids, one of the best in tube land👍
@@aaaaandstilllll_____9855 complete step by step; ruclips.net/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/видео.html
👍
Why doesn't anyone go between battery and ground to make sure you DON'T have continuity in the run and crank mode🤷🏼♂️
I’ll say it again thank you how to get the stuff must because I’m getting old it’s good to have remind her when you get 60 I guess it happens ha ha ha ha I’m laughing I’m laughing I worked on a lawn more man a long long time just forget things
That's not continuity, that's Diode Check
👍
Thanks for watching!