Thanks for this video. My yard machine was running and then nothing but click. You’ve given me lots of things to check out and hopefully I’ll have it fixed. Great video.
Straight to the point ,all buisness,superb video.Thats the way it's done,very professional .No comedy ,blackened teeth hokie jokes ,just give us The Video don't act or try comedy not y'alls profession,The subject of the video that's all!!thumbs Up
Very helpful. I am troubleshooting an old Ransome's Bobcat. Starter switch is bad but I have been bypassing it with a jumper cable from the positive battery post to the red post on solenoid. So no feedback of clicking. Last week, no cranking, just sparks at solenoid. Will try your approach to eliminating causes.
Hey great video. I recently got a craftsman riding mower for free from a nice old lady. She said she paid several mechanics to work on it. Nobody could fix it but they of course charger her good. I found out some of the wiring is gone, one hook for the carburator is missing, honestly it needs an expert to find out what else is missing and make it work. I think I will just give up on it.
I have a Craftsman rider at least 20 years old. The solenoid was clicking like crazy when I turned the key over. Battery tested at 12.7v with meter. Tested everything else out & was fine. Replaced solenoid anyway and tore starter down and cleaned it up inside. But it was a head scratcher until I load tested the battery. Didn't even move the needle. Changed that. Like nothing even happened.
I recently replaced my starter solenoid, where I re-connected the wires exactly like they were on the old solenoid. After making a couple test cuts, the mower made a grinding noise that wasn't there prior, and upon turning the key off it kept the starter powered. I expect the new key switch or the solenoid is wired differently than the original parts. The solenoids appear identical but the 5 pin key start assembly was different as far as the orientation of the connector. What do you think?
So I have a cub cadet ltx 1050. I bought it used from a lawnmower repair shop. Used it twice now. It has a hard time starting when its cold. Cranks slow at first. But when it warms up it either cranks really slow or not at all and I have to wait 10/15 minutes and then it will start. It has 108 hrs on it. 2012 model.
@@EliminatorPerformance that's what I was thinking. I paid 900 for it. He said he went through it but it sat all winter long. I got an old battery charger I'll try that first. Other videos say it's the ignition coil but it only has 108 hrs.
Well explained plan, I know everyone charges differently, but generally, what would you say a ballpark amount for what you did in this video would be charged, I'm having similar issues and don't have ALL the tools to do some of the work, just a. Close estimate, thanks for your time 🚜🚜👍😎
It's always the last thing you do, because why would you keep going after you find the solution? 😁. Great video. Mine clicks every so often. You turn it and it clicks as you are letting go about every 3 times. Solonoid.?
My riding lawnmower was doing this and I’ve watched multiple videos and this is by far the most thorough, well-explained, and straightforward video I’ve found.
I have a mower question. I put a new starter on my mower and a new solenoid but when the key is in the off position the starter kicks on and when the key is in the on position the starter kicks off. I thought I had the wires connected backwards but there's just a positive wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter. I've bought two different solenoids because I thought it was the wrong one but both of them did the same thing. What else could it be?
I like to add a little dielectric grease to those type of electrical connections (battery+frame mounted grounds) to ensure some rust/corrosion protection.
Yes I'm sorry that never made it into the video, I'm actually sponsored by Permatex so I'm not sure why I didn't mention that, I usually include that whenever I'm dealing with electrical connections!
@@EliminatorPerformance You do a great job of explaining your troubleshooting and repair processes so I was surprised that you (after watching many of your vids) never mentioned the use of dielectric grease. You service and repair products that are used in an environment (outdoors) where rust and corrosion protection is important, (even on battery connections). Great work btw, I'm binge-watching and liking your content so if you have talked about it I haven't seen it yet.
I have the same but i dont have a lawnmower anymore, it is just the engine and the cables to the battery with an ignition switch, how do I have to start it? I think it is something with the ground
I had a problem with my john deere mower it would not start I kind of knew it was the starter solenoid so I took one of my wrenches and shorted the two big terminals on my starter solenoid togather and the motor started so I bought a new starter solenoid the old one was no good
Great vid and process of elimination. I appreciate it, but at what point would you test the voltage regulator? I've taken all said steps, but I've had two new batteries not hold charge after mowing for about an hour until it putters out. When i check the voltage, the battery is dead. I tested the brand new batteries at the local hardware store and they say they tested good. They crank up the mower fully charged, but hen...(look above). Ugh!!
So you'll want to check for a parasitic draw, or just put the multimeter on the battery while the engine is running, and if the voltage goes up, or it's more than it was when the engine was off, the alternator is charging it. Check this out, it may help. ruclips.net/video/hFqYA2to3qw/видео.html
@@EliminatorPerformance I saw the link. Great video. I bit the bullet and porked out $65 for new regulator rectifier cause the stator was pushing 40 AC/amps while the engine was running, the voltage on the battery did not go up nor did it go down. I checked for broken wires that could cause a parasitic draw, but I didn't find anything. Even with the new regulator, the battery charge does not increase while engine is running. I'm wondering if I could be missing something. Could it be that the new regulator is a lemon? Could it be something else I'm missing?
@@GM-dh5xi It ended up being the solenoid. It was practically brand new so I had ruled it out. I'm not sure if it's possible to burn out the solenoid, but apparently it was the culprit.
My dad has a troy bilt riding mower and its only 3 years old. He was mowing the lawn and forgot to disengage the blades and put it in reverse. It shut down and wouldn't start back up. I watched every video on RUclips but it's not getting me any where. Any help will be appreciated.
Disengage the blades, put the mower into drive all the way forward, press the brake and try to start it. Sometimes putting it in neutral won't be enough to disengage the reverse safety switch.
Stuck solenoid, I've only had this happen once but it does happen. The solenoid gets seized in the engaged position, very dangerous and can burn out wires and possibly cause a fire. Disconnect battery and replace solenoid!
After overcoming the big wall of awful that was my clicking mower, I did all the steps you suggested and found it was a ground on the battery and solenoid that fixed it! Life saver! Thank you. I agree with what everyone else said about how helpful and clearly you described the likely failure points.
So my riding mower was running. I set the brake to get off. The motor was running nice I went to get on it. It start to spit n sputter. Then turn off and all it does is click. Any idea what it can be. It’s a husqvarna yth 20k42 with a kohler 725cc 7000 series motor.
Just my two cents but you can test the fuse by the two contactors on top without removing it-it has saved me a lot of headache when working on cars-just wanted to pass along the advice- Great video!
Your tutorial saved me hours of frustration. I checked all my connections, charged the battery and my mower would not start. After reading all the comments I discovered 2 other guys had the same problem. My battery was fully charged, and was good after putting a load on it at the parts store. It needed a booster to start for some reason, but when it started I got so excited I mowed my yard of 2+ acres. Im a new subscriber and thank you for the video.
Good video. I have a question. Turning key makes solenoid work, there is 12volt plus power to starter but starter does not turn. Putting power direct to starter from battery starts the engine. Checked key switch contacts, all work as they should solenoid clicks. Is it possible that there is a fault on the reverse module part? Ive checked all safety switches and all appear good. I'm stumped. Help please??
Before you break out ANY test equipment, make sure the blades are DISengaged. Sounds simple but my Hustler zero turn almost fooled me. It has a toggle switch/solenoid that won't allow power to the starter if in the ON position, but it WILL click. Glad I caught my mistake before I started unbolting stuff. Just thought this might help someone.
Very helpful! Appreciate the diagnostic algorithm, this is one for the playlist! Suspect the battery is toast with that low of a reading. "Batteries don't die, they're murdered" LOL.
sometimes it could be just a dead cell in the better I just had it happen to me better with charged up fool George but soon as you turn the key it would click that's all that would do
Ohm testing is poor way to locate problem area. You should do voltage drop testing under load to pinpoint poor connection without having to disconnect anything. The Old TV Tech.
Well the problem was that I wouldn't of had any voltage at all. Ohm testing showed me that all the cables I tested were ok, and didn't have a tremendous amount of resistance. Which means that by a process of elimination, it had to be a bad ground. Remember that the solenoid/keyswitch is a separate circuit from the starter circuit. So the solenoid was clicking, but because of the bad ground, 12v wasn't being sent to the starter.
@@EliminatorPerformance you can voltage test using the battery ground post. This will eliminate the ground side from your testing and tell you if your positive side is good for sure. You can pinpoint where in the system the positive connection drops out. If testing from battery ground to starter gets proper voltage then you know the issue is the ground. Would have been able.to pinpoint the issue in about 2 minutes. Electrical troubleshooting is all about knowing where to put the test leads and knowing what the expected result SHOULD be. If you get any other result then you make a diagnosis of that result and an your test testimony accordingly. It's difficult to test when you can't see it. Electricians call it FM. (Fucking magic)
@warren steffen: How could he perform a voltage test under load IF the system wasn’t running originally? An Ohm test will suffice if you have no power going to load. He could see a drop in Ohms IF a wire is broken. Same results, different test.
Thank you for your expert knowledge. I was able to follow your step and found the ground wire next to solenoid that was loose. Btw, ever since I replaced the engine two year, the headlights is always on. I was able to live by so far by disconnect the battery each time. Wonder if you know the cause for that
That"s not "continuity", that's Diode Test. Does it "work"? Yes. Is it right? No. I'm not familiar with that exact meter, but the sine wave right next to the diode test (arrow to vertical line) is actually probably continuity test. Otherwise, seems the only useful thing I have found sofar on actually fixing the issue. Found this trying to fix my F.I.L.'s old craftsman mower.
I know this is a few years old, but hopefully you or someone else is paying attention... When I turn the key on my Troy-bilt Horse XP, I hear rapid clicking for as long as I hold the key in the start position. The battery is freshly charged after the mower sat all winter. Any ideas or productive suggestions?
Battery could be 12v but the amps could be low and it won't turn over the engine. I'd recommend trying to start it while the batter and the booster is hooked up, might give it some extra amps.
Im having the worst time figuring out my problem. Im only getting 8.5v at the solenoid. So it doesnt even click. I get battery voltage at the brake switch and then it drops to 8.5 at the pto switch. Then the pto switch sends 8.5 to the solenoid...i also cant find the actual wiring diagram for my tractor. Only the year before and it doesnt match. My brake switch only has 2 wires where the diagrams i find show 4 wires.
Sounds like you have voltage drop somewhere, possibly corrosion. I'd put your battery on charge to boost the amps and voltage, then retest your wires and see if it improves. I have a battery load tester, so I can see the voltage when a battery is just sitting, or under load.
Is this test maybe a false positive? Reason I ask is because I heard in a different youtube video that the solenoid has a coil in it that opens the circuit for the starter motor and switches for the seat, brake, and pto. Is this test bypassing the function of the switch? I'm not a pro or know electricity, just asking because I have same problem. I get a click when the key turned. I think I'm just going to replace it and see if the starter engages or not and go from there. Edit: forgot to mention this was a helpful video. You got me in the direction I needed. Thanks.
I have a John Deere 185 Hydro lawn tractor with a 17HP Kawasaki FC540V engine and a Nippon Denso 12800-2810 starter that had an intermittent "one click, no start" issue. I installed a $16.00 knock off John Deere AM107421 Starter Relay Kit from eBay and it solved the issue. This video helped me track down the issue caused by low voltage at the starter solenoid.
I have a zero turn and it was clicking a few weeks ago, when I turned the key all the way, nothing, but when I backed the key off ever so slightly it would turn over. Now barely clicks. I'm thinking bad key switch?
Thank you in short I changed every thing and still no turn over even jumped brand new starter which works, did not think about the brake relay. because I have the drive belt off and it in the air. I'll try that and see if the solenoid will engage. it's brand new.
Thanks a million for this video. Very clear step by step testing. At the end all the tests pointed to the problem being in the starter motor. It was getting the correct voltage but not spinning. I thought to myself that if this happened in the car I would give it a couple of bangs with a hammer,so I tried it and guess what? It worked and has continued to do so. I guess that over the winter the thing had seized up…Bendix or whatever. I thought this might help someone before they undertook removal and repair/replacement.
Does the selenoid need to be grounded? I put a new one in but left it hanging because I had trouble getting it in the tight space. The tractor won’t start unless I jump start it
If it has 2 small wires going to it, then yes it has its own ground wire. If it only has 1 small wire going to it (not the other 2 big cables) then the solenoid grounds through the base of the solenoid. ruclips.net/video/h_vy7DERing/видео.html
Good troubleshooting procedure. I was hearing a click, but like a small relay. Found out that was the fuel cutoff solenoid by the carburetor. When in the start position, only ~5.5volts at the battery. Somewhat similar to this situation, It was the positive cable to the battery wasn't tight. It stated a few times after re-installing the battery in the spring, I guess after a few mows that loosened the connection.
If not the best well explained video on RUclips, it's one of the best videos that are well explained step by step. Unfortunately not all of us are familiar with those testers but this guy is a brain! I wish he lived in the Tampa Bay area!
Thank you so much for including the little blurb around 7 minutes about the brake switch. I was convinced I had a brake/seat/blade safety switch problem, but could hear the solenoid so you eliminated wasting more time on that for me.
Tengo un Ranch King lawn mower, el solenoide lo reemplace por uno nuevo , pero no me llega corriente al motor de arranque... ME PODRIA DAR UNA SOLUCION?
Outstanding explanation in troubleshooting a riding mower. With simple equipment. Right to the point. I need to say your a excellent technician and teacher.
Usually on newer models and some older models, there is safety switch or 2 hooked up on the ground side of the solenoid. Thus if one of the safety switches goes bad ( like the seat switch ) the mower will not start.
There's a stator on these motors also that puts out between 20 and 40 volts, and a voltage regulator that drops it down around 14 volts. One last check I would have done on this is to put a volt meter on the battery while the engine is running to be sure you see around 14 volts while the engine is running. This confirms that the charging system is working to keep the battery charged. Otherwise, repeated starts will eventually deplete the battery. Also, for mowers that have an electric PTO clutch, having the blades engaged puts a load on the battery, which will also deplete it if the charging system isn't working. I'm just adding this point because one question I would have after all the diagnostics is, why was the battery all the way down to 7 volts? It could just be because the battery is old, was sitting all winter, etc., but I would want to be sure that the charging system is working. When the mower is off, you'll see 12.8 volts nominally on the battery; 14 when the mower is running. If you don't see that 14 volts, then something is up w/ the charging system. That's when it's time to check the voltage coming off of the stator, and if you have a voltage there, then diagnose the voltage regulator. On some machines, these may be all-in-one. This was a great video.
NICE CLEAR EXPLANATIONS / TXXX !!! "WALT IN VERMONT"(CARPENTER~NOT MECHANIC). I LIKE YOUR STYLE !!! WOULD YOU PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON "HOW TO PROPERLY USE A MULTI METER ??? MUCH APPRECIATED / TXXX. "WALT".
Great video! I wish you could diagnose my mower. I get the click, but the starter doesn't turn over. I guess I'll have to go through the troubleshooting steps. But at least I learned that my solenoid is good.
“220 volts dc”, whewww that’s a lot of dc power!!! ;) I know I know it’s “to 20 volts dc”. At first i was like huh? That multimeter sounds pretty awesome lol
Very useful but my mower is still not starting. I’m getting a solenoid click and the starter is making contact with the flywheel. Should I expect 12+ V at the starter when turning the key? I’m getting around 7 V. Ditto at the starter post of the solenoid. 12+ V at the battery post of the solenoid. I’ve done the continuity checks on the main cables and they’re ok. Help
I have a John Deere 185 Hydro lawn tractor with a 17HP Kawasaki FC540V engine and a Nippon Denso 12800-2810 starter that had an intermittent "one click, no start" issue. I was only getting 10.5 volts at the starter solenoid. I installed a $16.00 knock off John Deere AM107421 Starter Relay Kit from eBay and it solved the issue. If your mower has a starter relay, it might need to be replaced. The starter relay compensates for low voltage issues that might be caused by aging wires and safety switches.
Okay so I am having this same thing ?? Someone in my Past has dammaged my positive post on my Battery. Looks like they used a DRILL get the cable off. Will this cause my battery to be NOT ANY GOOD ANY LONGER ?? THANK YOU Sherry
If the parking brake is on then it bypasses the seat switch, this is what allows you to run the mower and get off it as long as the parking brake is on
🤔My Dude.its a long story.but happy sad ending....Had the same problem Soo after i replaced the $20.silinoid I end up calling a service tech that wanted to charge me $489 to replace the starter..I.told him i didn't want to spend that type of $$ soo he advise me to go buy one on Amazon for $40 so I did and still nothing ...Soo I said self look on you tube..and I found you..Soo after I spent $210 for diagnosis fee a silinoid a stater and a busted finger..It was just a case of exactly what you did..NOTHING.🤦♂️..unplug and plug back in.🤦♂️ problem solve..amazing...feel kind of stupid but it's funny as hell.. 😂 SOO THANKS FOR THE TIP..👌👍.I would even send you $25 just for the hell of it 🤷🏽♂️🥳
Sorry to hear that! Yea thats the issue with this design is sometimes it's just a bad connection! Thanks for watching! And my donate links are in the description!
Quick Q? [from rookie/novice]; some minor/major advantage(s) using your "Eliminator Battery Booster" AKA booster or some snuff Vs. my Centech Battery Charger AKA trickle w/ set to 50Amp *Emergency Engine Start*? ... Near idle curiosity, but hey, sometimes, there's "preferences" and usual enough for reason(s) some maybe more valid than others. ... Hope that's not far into the weeds. Kind regards!
Hey. Very well explained. Mine has the same problem... :) so I'll have fun fixing it!! I had a look at your other videos, that is impressive , you're covering A LOT OF STUFF ( a lot of subjects). God, I love RUclips because I'm a DIY and very curious , so videos like yours are very appreciated!!! So new subscriber here!! Tks.
Great video but i need a little help... my starter is only receiving 5volts to start and the battery is full 12.7volts. I added New Solenoid. Any ideas why & how to fix it?
Hi Great video, i followed your electrical trouble shooter....i have fully cahrged battery.....i have good earth in continuity and resistance. I have power to solenoid, power from solenoid to ignition switch, when it turn ignition i have no voltage going down from ignition through small wire to solenoid. Safety switches are ok....i also have no lights at all on the dashboard......any advice? Thank you in advance...grass is getting longer DOH, Lee
My husqvarna yth18542 with ex1900 briggs is doing this exact thing. I have a new battery as my old one was bad. I also replaced the starter solenoid. I have 12.5v at batt and starter solenoid. However when I attempt to crank, I'm only getting 7.5v to the starter...
i ahve so many questions about the electricity in these things..i currently have one of these and im bout 100 percent postive its not starting becasue of an electrical issue im certain its not the engine. it has compression, gas . and new spark plug so it shas something to do wiht the wiring or soemthing..i bought a new battery, new solenoid and still nothing it doesnt even click as far as testing wirses or if i hooked the wores up wrong to the solenoid i have no idea i know very littel about which setting to set the mutimeter at ive watched a few videos and little by little ive tested my mahcine out...mine beeps when i test the ground cable...shows 0.05 ish soemtimes to .11 and bounces around maybe its a loose connection soemwhere the old battery sucks but i returned the new battery becaus ei really have no idea what im doing when it comes to the electrical in this thing..so to save myself soem heavier losses i just returned it..if it was just down to a simple engine i could do it i just didnt think or know thered be so much electricla knowledge needed for these things.
Sorry I can't help much over the internet as things are hard to explain or diagnosis without being infront of me, but please watch this video, I take you through the entire electrical system; ruclips.net/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/видео.html
@@EliminatorPerformance i think i saw that video ill check it out but yeah i know what you mean im more of "i need a hands on or be there in person to have soemoen teaching me" so i can see and ask questions as i go
![[Limbus Company - Teaser] Season5 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8anKuEeZLeI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this video. My yard machine was running and then nothing but click. You’ve given me lots of things to check out and hopefully I’ll have it fixed. Great video.
Thanks so much guy.. I didnt have a click and had no idea where it was located.. no one I looked at showed where it was and you did . your the man.
Thank you from the UK, I will check all my leads on my MTD.... Good video.
Thanks brother. You just saved me about $100. God bless you sir.
Great video. Great example of the process of elimination. Thanks
Straight to the point ,all buisness,superb video.Thats the way it's done,very professional .No comedy ,blackened teeth hokie jokes ,just give us The Video don't act or try comedy not y'alls profession,The subject of the video that's all!!thumbs Up
Thanks for watching!
Very helpful. I am troubleshooting an old Ransome's Bobcat. Starter switch is bad but I have been bypassing it with a jumper cable from the positive battery post to the red post on solenoid. So no feedback of clicking. Last week, no cranking, just sparks at solenoid. Will try your approach to eliminating causes.
Hey great video. I recently got a craftsman riding mower for free from a nice old lady. She said she paid several mechanics to work on it. Nobody could fix it but they of course charger her good. I found out some of the wiring is gone, one hook for the carburator is missing, honestly it needs an expert to find out what else is missing and make it work. I think I will just give up on it.
I have a Craftsman rider at least 20 years old. The solenoid was clicking like crazy when I turned the key over. Battery tested at 12.7v with meter. Tested everything else out & was fine. Replaced solenoid anyway and tore starter down and cleaned it up inside. But it was a head scratcher until I load tested the battery. Didn't even move the needle. Changed that. Like nothing even happened.
I recently replaced my starter solenoid, where I re-connected the wires exactly like they were on the old solenoid. After making a couple test cuts, the mower made a grinding noise that wasn't there prior, and upon turning the key off it kept the starter powered. I expect the new key switch or the solenoid is wired differently than the original parts. The solenoids appear identical but the 5 pin key start assembly was different as far as the orientation of the connector. What do you think?
Good video bro, well explained and clearly understandable. Adding you to my subscriptions!
Thanks for watching!
So I have a cub cadet ltx 1050. I bought it used from a lawnmower repair shop. Used it twice now. It has a hard time starting when its cold. Cranks slow at first. But when it warms up it either cranks really slow or not at all and I have to wait 10/15 minutes and then it will start. It has 108 hrs on it. 2012 model.
New battery, get a 370 cranking amp, I would start there to rule that out at least
@@EliminatorPerformance that's what I was thinking. I paid 900 for it. He said he went through it but it sat all winter long. I got an old battery charger I'll try that first. Other videos say it's the ignition coil but it only has 108 hrs.
Thanks for your help, I’ll try it tomorrow!
Well explained plan, I know everyone charges differently, but generally, what would you say a ballpark amount for what you did in this video would be charged, I'm having similar issues and don't have ALL the tools to do some of the work, just a. Close estimate, thanks for your time 🚜🚜👍😎
It's always the last thing you do, because why would you keep going after you find the solution? 😁. Great video. Mine clicks every so often. You turn it and it clicks as you are letting go about every 3 times. Solonoid.?
Yes most likely, just make sure you have 12v at the solenoid wire everytime you turn the key! ruclips.net/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/видео.html
Thanks for simplified 😮 kool
Excellent video, common sense step by step.
My riding lawnmower was doing this and I’ve watched multiple videos and this is by far the most thorough, well-explained, and straightforward video I’ve found.
😮 same here …
Same here 👍
I have a mower question. I put a new starter on my mower and a new solenoid but when the key is in the off position the starter kicks on and when the key is in the on position the starter kicks off. I thought I had the wires connected backwards but there's just a positive wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter. I've bought two different solenoids because I thought it was the wrong one but both of them did the same thing. What else could it be?
man amazing job vary good knowledge thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I like to add a little dielectric grease to those type of electrical connections (battery+frame mounted grounds) to ensure some rust/corrosion protection.
Yes I'm sorry that never made it into the video, I'm actually sponsored by Permatex so I'm not sure why I didn't mention that, I usually include that whenever I'm dealing with electrical connections!
@@EliminatorPerformance You do a great job of explaining your troubleshooting and repair processes so I was surprised that you (after watching many of your vids) never mentioned the use of dielectric grease. You service and repair products that are used in an environment (outdoors) where rust and corrosion protection is important, (even on battery connections). Great work btw, I'm binge-watching and liking your content so if you have talked about it I haven't seen it yet.
I have the same but i dont have a lawnmower anymore, it is just the engine and the cables to the battery with an ignition switch, how do I have to start it? I think it is something with the ground
I had a problem with my john deere mower it would not start I kind of knew it was the starter solenoid so I took one of my wrenches and shorted the two big terminals on my starter solenoid togather and the motor started so I bought a new starter solenoid the old one was no good
ampar wingate And that folks is how it’s done 👍
I know what to check now ty
Thanks for watching!
Good video! Thanks!!
Thanks for watching Bruce!
Great vid and process of elimination. I appreciate it, but at what point would you test the voltage regulator? I've taken all said steps, but I've had two new batteries not hold charge after mowing for about an hour until it putters out. When i check the voltage, the battery is dead. I tested the brand new batteries at the local hardware store and they say they tested good. They crank up the mower fully charged, but hen...(look above). Ugh!!
So you'll want to check for a parasitic draw, or just put the multimeter on the battery while the engine is running, and if the voltage goes up, or it's more than it was when the engine was off, the alternator is charging it. Check this out, it may help. ruclips.net/video/hFqYA2to3qw/видео.html
Thanks for responding! I’ll check it out. New subscriber here, my friend.
@@EliminatorPerformance I saw the link. Great video. I bit the bullet and porked out $65 for new regulator rectifier cause the stator was pushing 40 AC/amps while the engine was running, the voltage on the battery did not go up nor did it go down. I checked for broken wires that could cause a parasitic draw, but I didn't find anything. Even with the new regulator, the battery charge does not increase while engine is running. I'm wondering if I could be missing something. Could it be that the new regulator is a lemon? Could it be something else I'm missing?
@@argentumman7116 did you crank up the rpm's when testing the regulator. Might not be showing up at idle speed.
@@GM-dh5xi It ended up being the solenoid. It was practically brand new so I had ruled it out. I'm not sure if it's possible to burn out the solenoid, but apparently it was the culprit.
My dad has a troy bilt riding mower and its only 3 years old. He was mowing the lawn and forgot to disengage the blades and put it in reverse. It shut down and wouldn't start back up. I watched every video on RUclips but it's not getting me any where. Any help will be appreciated.
Disengage the blades, put the mower into drive all the way forward, press the brake and try to start it. Sometimes putting it in neutral won't be enough to disengage the reverse safety switch.
I charged the battery . The instant I touched cable to battery the engine start turning over. Is it a bad switch?
Could it be the starter solonoid?
Stuck solenoid, I've only had this happen once but it does happen. The solenoid gets seized in the engaged position, very dangerous and can burn out wires and possibly cause a fire. Disconnect battery and replace solenoid!
Thanks brother. I'll put a new solenoid on tomorrow. I'll post results.
It'll be Wednesday till I change the solenoid. I'll let you know how it turned out. Thanks again.
I bought a new battery and altinator I turn the key and it turns over and clicks but doesn't turn all the way over
So, what causes the solenoid to get hot and the wire from battery to solenoid gets so hot you can't touch it?
I know this is an old video, but I just wanted to pop in and say thank you! You taught me a lot and helped me diagnose my no-start issue!!
Way to go , you checked just about everything possible and it was a very good lesson to all of us . Thank you !
Thanks for watching!
I can't thank you enough for your help. After 4 years I finally got mine fixed. You are the man bro.
After overcoming the big wall of awful that was my clicking mower, I did all the steps you suggested and found it was a ground on the battery and solenoid that fixed it! Life saver! Thank you. I agree with what everyone else said about how helpful and clearly you described the likely failure points.
So my riding mower was running. I set the brake to get off. The motor was running nice I went to get on it. It start to spit n sputter. Then turn off and all it does is click. Any idea what it can be. It’s a husqvarna yth 20k42 with a kohler 725cc 7000 series motor.
Just my two cents but you can test the fuse by the two contactors on top without removing it-it has saved me a lot of headache when working on cars-just wanted to pass along the advice- Great video!
Doing a voltage drop test to test the wires is probably better you can get continuity but insufficient voltage due to corrosion or broken strands
Ur correct there is a big difference between continuity and conductivity voltage drop test
Kkojoujkh
Yep voltage drop test on both pos and neg would have save a half day of taking things apart unnecessarily….
Your tutorial saved me hours of frustration. I checked all my connections, charged the battery and my mower would not start. After reading all the comments I discovered 2 other guys had the same problem. My battery was fully charged, and was good after putting a load on it at the parts store. It needed a booster to start for some reason, but when it started I got so excited I mowed my yard of 2+ acres. Im a new subscriber and thank you for the video.
subscribed immediately after watching...great camera work as well as commentary of information given, keep up the great videos...
Thanks for watching Rich, happy holidays!
Same here
Good video. I have a question. Turning key makes solenoid work, there is 12volt plus power to starter but starter does not turn. Putting power direct to starter from battery starts the engine. Checked key switch contacts, all work as they should solenoid clicks. Is it possible that there is a fault on the reverse module part?
Ive checked all safety switches and all appear good. I'm stumped. Help please??
This is good stuff brother! I appreciate you making the video!
It was Exactly what mine was doing and same fix. Got the battery too and Bam it worked. LOL
Before you break out ANY test equipment, make sure the blades are DISengaged. Sounds simple but my Hustler zero turn almost fooled me. It has a toggle switch/solenoid that won't allow power to the starter if in the ON position, but it WILL click. Glad I caught my mistake before I started unbolting stuff. Just thought this might help someone.
Well explained video! I learned a lot tricks in 12 min. Thanks for your advices!🙂
Great video bro! I have a Yardman by MTD given to me and I have just begin to work on it. I look forward to watching more of your vids.
Very helpful! Appreciate the diagnostic algorithm, this is one for the playlist! Suspect the battery is toast with that low of a reading. "Batteries don't die, they're murdered" LOL.
Thanks for watching!
sometimes it could be just a dead cell in the better I just had it happen to me better with charged up fool George but soon as you turn the key it would click that's all that would do
Ohm testing is poor way to locate problem area. You should do voltage drop testing under load to pinpoint poor connection without having to disconnect anything. The Old TV Tech.
Well the problem was that I wouldn't of had any voltage at all. Ohm testing showed me that all the cables I tested were ok, and didn't have a tremendous amount of resistance. Which means that by a process of elimination, it had to be a bad ground. Remember that the solenoid/keyswitch is a separate circuit from the starter circuit. So the solenoid was clicking, but because of the bad ground, 12v wasn't being sent to the starter.
@@EliminatorPerformance you can voltage test using the battery ground post. This will eliminate the ground side from your testing and tell you if your positive side is good for sure. You can pinpoint where in the system the positive connection drops out. If testing from battery ground to starter gets proper voltage then you know the issue is the ground. Would have been able.to pinpoint the issue in about 2 minutes. Electrical troubleshooting is all about knowing where to put the test leads and knowing what the expected result SHOULD be. If you get any other result then you make a diagnosis of that result and an your test testimony accordingly. It's difficult to test when you can't see it. Electricians call it FM. (Fucking magic)
@warren steffen: How could he perform a voltage test under load IF the system wasn’t running originally? An Ohm test will suffice if you have no power going to load. He could see a drop in Ohms IF a wire is broken. Same results, different test.
I replaced battery and soleniod and mower still will not start. Soleniod does not make a noise when I turn the key,
Look at your safety switches! ruclips.net/video/ceYCgXTEz_U/видео.html
Thank you for your expert knowledge. I was able to follow your step and found the ground wire next to solenoid that was loose. Btw, ever since I replaced the engine two year, the headlights is always on. I was able to live by so far by disconnect the battery each time. Wonder if you know the cause for that
That"s not "continuity", that's Diode Test. Does it "work"? Yes. Is it right? No. I'm not familiar with that exact meter, but the sine wave right next to the diode test (arrow to vertical line) is actually probably continuity test.
Otherwise, seems the only useful thing I have found sofar on actually fixing the issue. Found this trying to fix my F.I.L.'s old craftsman mower.
Yea this is a cheap Meter, diode and continuity are same. I actually just upgraded to a fluke 117 and it's amazing
I know this is a few years old, but hopefully you or someone else is paying attention... When I turn the key on my Troy-bilt Horse XP, I hear rapid clicking for as long as I hold the key in the start position. The battery is freshly charged after the mower sat all winter. Any ideas or productive suggestions?
Battery could be 12v but the amps could be low and it won't turn over the engine. I'd recommend trying to start it while the batter and the booster is hooked up, might give it some extra amps.
Im having the worst time figuring out my problem. Im only getting 8.5v at the solenoid. So it doesnt even click. I get battery voltage at the brake switch and then it drops to 8.5 at the pto switch. Then the pto switch sends 8.5 to the solenoid...i also cant find the actual wiring diagram for my tractor. Only the year before and it doesnt match. My brake switch only has 2 wires where the diagrams i find show 4 wires.
Sounds like you have voltage drop somewhere, possibly corrosion. I'd put your battery on charge to boost the amps and voltage, then retest your wires and see if it improves. I have a battery load tester, so I can see the voltage when a battery is just sitting, or under load.
Awesome video! Why couldn't I live next door to a guy like this 👍👍👍
Is this test maybe a false positive? Reason I ask is because I heard in a different youtube video that the solenoid has a coil in it that opens the circuit for the starter motor and switches for the seat, brake, and pto. Is this test bypassing the function of the switch? I'm not a pro or know electricity, just asking because I have same problem. I get a click when the key turned.
I think I'm just going to replace it and see if the starter engages or not and go from there.
Edit: forgot to mention this was a helpful video. You got me in the direction I needed. Thanks.
Watch this video I did, it goes through the complete wiring harness.
ruclips.net/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/видео.html
I have a John Deere 185 Hydro lawn tractor with a 17HP Kawasaki FC540V engine and a Nippon Denso 12800-2810 starter that had an intermittent "one click, no start" issue. I installed a $16.00 knock off John Deere AM107421 Starter Relay Kit from eBay and it solved the issue.
This video helped me track down the issue caused by low voltage at the starter solenoid.
Awesome video, thanks for all the detail. Sub'd after watching.
I have a zero turn and it was clicking a few weeks ago, when I turned the key all the way, nothing, but when I backed the key off ever so slightly it would turn over. Now barely clicks. I'm thinking bad key switch?
Had that issue on a keyswitch, you can test it, watch this; ruclips.net/video/vWRL9_3_X0Y/видео.html
Thank you in short I changed every thing and still no turn over even jumped brand new starter which works, did not think about the brake relay. because I have the drive belt off and it in the air. I'll try that and see if the solenoid will engage. it's brand new.
Thanks a million for this video. Very clear step by step testing. At the end all the tests pointed to the problem being in the starter motor. It was getting the correct voltage but not spinning. I thought to myself that if this happened in the car I would give it a couple of bangs with a hammer,so I tried it and guess what? It worked and has continued to do so. I guess that over the winter the thing had seized up…Bendix or whatever. I thought this might help someone before they undertook removal and repair/replacement.
My blades stopped turning while mowing. My wife turned off the mower and now it won’t turn over. Any ideas?
If it's got an electric PTO then I'd check the seat switch!
Does the selenoid need to be grounded? I put a new one in but left it hanging because I had trouble getting it in the tight space. The tractor won’t start unless I jump start it
If it has 2 small wires going to it, then yes it has its own ground wire. If it only has 1 small wire going to it (not the other 2 big cables) then the solenoid grounds through the base of the solenoid. ruclips.net/video/h_vy7DERing/видео.html
So... Main takeaway check everything, but check my grounds first?
Yea check all the connections. I have an even better video taking you through the steps; ruclips.net/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/видео.html
You’re awesome Explain everything point by point I learned something new today thanks boss God bless you
Very informative, Thank you !!!
Good troubleshooting procedure. I was hearing a click, but like a small relay. Found out that was the fuel cutoff solenoid by the carburetor. When in the start position, only ~5.5volts at the battery. Somewhat similar to this situation, It was the positive cable to the battery wasn't tight. It stated a few times after re-installing the battery in the spring, I guess after a few mows that loosened the connection.
Thanks! Thought it was the battery, replaced the solenoid, nothing but click. It's the cables, especially the ground. Thanks again!
Thank you! Just bought a 48” inch 2048 zoom zero turn for $300 and this video was all I needed to get it running!
Thanks for watching!
2048?? Your way ahead of your time. Lol
If not the best well explained video on RUclips, it's one of the best videos that are well explained step by step. Unfortunately not all of us are familiar with those testers but this guy is a brain! I wish he lived in the Tampa Bay area!
Thanks for watching!
Not all superheroes wear capes
This was extremely helpful. I did not even know where to start until I watched this.
Thank you so much for including the little blurb around 7 minutes about the brake switch. I was convinced I had a brake/seat/blade safety switch problem, but could hear the solenoid so you eliminated wasting more time on that for me.
Great no nonsense video, covering all the stuff I'm reluctant to check. Will be doing so in about twenty minutes. Thanks for a great job!
Thanks for watching!
Maaan,I'm taking mine to the shop, sounds like my problem though.
This video just might save me a lot of money on my Husky. Having this exact issue. Subscribed for sure now!!!
Sometimes the mower won't start if there is no one on the seat. Some mowers have safety on the seat so it only starts if you have weight on the seat
Tengo un Ranch King lawn mower, el solenoide lo reemplace por uno nuevo , pero no me llega corriente al motor de arranque... ME PODRIA DAR UNA SOLUCION?
Outstanding explanation in troubleshooting a riding mower. With simple equipment. Right to the point. I need to say your a excellent technician and teacher.
Thanks, I just learned a lot. I have the clicking sound as well, and have been jumping it with the car to get it started. Will check all connections.
Usually on newer models and some older models, there is safety switch or 2 hooked up on the ground side of the solenoid. Thus if one of the safety switches goes bad ( like the seat switch ) the mower will not start.
"Solenoid Clicks but Doesn't Start". Yup, that's my life in a nutshell.
Just out of interest. What in your experience is the most common cause this issue?
Thanks. Saved me a lot of headaches
I don't get it.
There's a stator on these motors also that puts out between 20 and 40 volts, and a voltage regulator that drops it down around 14 volts. One last check I would have done on this is to put a volt meter on the battery while the engine is running to be sure you see around 14 volts while the engine is running. This confirms that the charging system is working to keep the battery charged. Otherwise, repeated starts will eventually deplete the battery. Also, for mowers that have an electric PTO clutch, having the blades engaged puts a load on the battery, which will also deplete it if the charging system isn't working. I'm just adding this point because one question I would have after all the diagnostics is, why was the battery all the way down to 7 volts? It could just be because the battery is old, was sitting all winter, etc., but I would want to be sure that the charging system is working.
When the mower is off, you'll see 12.8 volts nominally on the battery; 14 when the mower is running. If you don't see that 14 volts, then something is up w/ the charging system. That's when it's time to check the voltage coming off of the stator, and if you have a voltage there, then diagnose the voltage regulator. On some machines, these may be all-in-one.
This was a great video.
NICE CLEAR EXPLANATIONS / TXXX !!! "WALT IN VERMONT"(CARPENTER~NOT MECHANIC). I LIKE YOUR STYLE !!! WOULD YOU PLEASE DO A VIDEO ON "HOW TO PROPERLY USE A MULTI METER ??? MUCH APPRECIATED / TXXX. "WALT".
The best video, thx for sharing.
Great video! I wish you could diagnose my mower. I get the click, but the starter doesn't turn over. I guess I'll have to go through the troubleshooting steps. But at least I learned that my solenoid is good.
Watch this one, it's step by step: ruclips.net/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/видео.html
“220 volts dc”, whewww that’s a lot of dc power!!! ;) I know I know it’s “to 20 volts dc”. At first i was like huh? That multimeter sounds pretty awesome lol
Sir, I have a Sears lawn tractor, the shifter doesn't engage in gear, is there an adjustment on clutch?.
I found the PTO switch wasn't engaging because the PTO handle bushing was worn and wasn't hitting the switch in the spot intended.
Very useful but my mower is still not starting. I’m getting a solenoid click and the starter is making contact with the flywheel. Should I expect 12+ V at the starter when turning the key? I’m getting around 7 V. Ditto at the starter post of the solenoid. 12+ V at the battery post of the solenoid. I’ve done the continuity checks on the main cables and they’re ok. Help
Probably too much resistance on your cable if you only have 7v
@@EliminatorPerformance I understand but I'm getting circa 7V too at the solenoid post on the starter side.
I have a John Deere 185 Hydro lawn tractor with a 17HP Kawasaki FC540V engine and a Nippon Denso 12800-2810 starter that had an intermittent "one click, no start" issue. I was only getting 10.5 volts at the starter solenoid. I installed a $16.00 knock off John Deere AM107421 Starter Relay Kit from eBay and it solved the issue.
If your mower has a starter relay, it might need to be replaced. The starter relay compensates for low voltage issues that might be caused by aging wires and safety switches.
Okay so I am having this same thing ?? Someone in my Past has dammaged my positive post on my Battery. Looks like they used a DRILL get the cable off. Will this cause my battery to be NOT ANY GOOD ANY LONGER ??
THANK YOU Sherry
Awesome video. Now i have a step by step diagnostic plan of attack. Much appreciated!! 🙏🏻 Subscribed.
Why doesn't the seat in the raised position not activate the dead man switch?
If the parking brake is on then it bypasses the seat switch, this is what allows you to run the mower and get off it as long as the parking brake is on
Thanks for vodeo. Replaced solenoid and battery still just clicked. I will check cables next as I thought that was the probem anyways but got lazy.
🤔My Dude.its a long story.but happy sad ending....Had the same problem Soo after i replaced the $20.silinoid I end up calling a service tech that wanted to charge me $489 to replace the starter..I.told him i didn't want to spend that type of $$ soo he advise me to go buy one on Amazon for $40 so I did and still nothing ...Soo I said self look on you tube..and I found you..Soo after I spent $210 for diagnosis fee a silinoid a stater and a busted finger..It was just a case of exactly what you did..NOTHING.🤦♂️..unplug and plug back in.🤦♂️ problem solve..amazing...feel kind of stupid but it's funny as hell.. 😂 SOO THANKS FOR THE TIP..👌👍.I would even send you $25 just for the hell of it 🤷🏽♂️🥳
Sorry to hear that! Yea thats the issue with this design is sometimes it's just a bad connection! Thanks for watching! And my donate links are in the description!
Quick Q? [from rookie/novice]; some minor/major advantage(s) using your "Eliminator Battery Booster" AKA booster or some snuff Vs. my Centech Battery Charger AKA trickle w/ set to 50Amp *Emergency Engine Start*? ... Near idle curiosity, but hey, sometimes, there's "preferences" and usual enough for reason(s) some maybe more valid than others. ... Hope that's not far into the weeds. Kind regards!
Hey. Very well explained. Mine has the same problem... :) so I'll have fun fixing it!! I had a look at your other videos, that is impressive , you're covering A LOT OF STUFF ( a lot of subjects). God, I love RUclips because I'm a DIY and very curious , so videos like yours are very appreciated!!! So new subscriber here!! Tks.
Your video was money. Thanks for this! You got my subscription!!
Great video but i need a little help... my starter is only receiving 5volts to start and the battery is full 12.7volts. I added New Solenoid. Any ideas why & how to fix it?
Hi Great video, i followed your electrical trouble shooter....i have fully cahrged battery.....i have good earth in continuity and resistance. I have power to solenoid, power from solenoid to ignition switch, when it turn ignition i have no voltage going down from ignition through small wire to solenoid. Safety switches are ok....i also have no lights at all on the dashboard......any advice? Thank you in advance...grass is getting longer DOH, Lee
My husqvarna yth18542 with ex1900 briggs is doing this exact thing. I have a new battery as my old one was bad. I also replaced the starter solenoid. I have 12.5v at batt and starter solenoid. However when I attempt to crank, I'm only getting 7.5v to the starter...
i ahve so many questions about the electricity in these things..i currently have one of these and im bout 100 percent postive its not starting becasue of an electrical issue im certain its not the engine. it has compression, gas . and new spark plug so it shas something to do wiht the wiring or soemthing..i bought a new battery, new solenoid and still nothing it doesnt even click as far as testing wirses or if i hooked the wores up wrong to the solenoid i have no idea i know very littel about which setting to set the mutimeter at ive watched a few videos and little by little ive tested my mahcine out...mine beeps when i test the ground cable...shows 0.05 ish soemtimes to .11 and bounces around maybe its a loose connection soemwhere the old battery sucks but i returned the new battery becaus ei really have no idea what im doing when it comes to the electrical in this thing..so to save myself soem heavier losses i just returned it..if it was just down to a simple engine i could do it i just didnt think or know thered be so much electricla knowledge needed for these things.
ps as i replaced the solendoind on my yardowkrs its in the same spot as this one and what a pain in the ass to get at lol
Sorry I can't help much over the internet as things are hard to explain or diagnosis without being infront of me, but please watch this video, I take you through the entire electrical system; ruclips.net/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/видео.html
@@EliminatorPerformance i think i saw that video ill check it out but yeah i know what you mean im more of "i need a hands on or be there in person to have soemoen teaching me" so i can see and ask questions as i go