Yes, open the deck front & the front part of the blade guard/fence. Reinforce the top of the deck with angle iron to replace the removed deck front metal. The reinforcement angle iron should connect to the front wheel mounting metat so they won't bow out from the weight. This will stop the front of the deck metal from pushing over the grass! See how the Billy Goat brand field & brush mower front deck is designed & do something similar. You have plenty of engine & blade but you have got to stop pushing over the grass & it will cut for sure! Essentially you are kinda building a mini brush hog shredder that's open in the front!
This. I actually cut 2 inch cutouts on my rider for this purpose, along with pine cones. Works like a charm. My deck was so damn hard it took a while to do with an oscillating tool carbide blade so maybe use a cut off wheel instead. Also put some damn Gator blades on that thing!!!
Hey.. I have 40 years experience in the lawnmower business. The problem is the mower deck is pushing the grass down. If you cut a notch out of the front of the mower it will cut the high grass
@@snjspring No. I typed My Comment, not yours. So I'm going to assume it's your illiteracy that is holding back your English comprehension. Best to understand a language, before understanding things written in it. That's where most people start 😂 ... he doesn't get, obviously one of his many shortcomings 🤤
@@snjspring That's not true. I typed My Comment, not yours. So I'm going to assume it's your illiteracy that is holding back your English comprehension. Best to understand a language, before understanding things written in it. That's where most people start. A little bit of This, and a little bit of THAT 😂 ... he doesn't get, obviously one of his many shortcomings
As a commercial lawn care professional, try this to upgrade the push mow: You need high lift blades, not the 3n1 mulch. You need a discharge big enough to expell the clippings. Remember the science: you need a vacuum effect. With high lifts, you're pushing more air around, and wouldn't be a problem making that grass stand up underneath it after flattening it. I've experimented like this when I first started. I've threw a Kawasaki 21hp on a push mower. With no pullies to reduce the blade speeds, you can imagine how fast the blades were going. Dam close to 2k rpm. At that point, a stick will leave indents on the frame.
Or, you can skip all of that and make a sickle bar mower. Lift doesn't really apply here as this is brush mower territory, not landscaping a hoity-toity suburban gated community house lawn. On long human hair we don't use a lawn mower, we use the sickle bar mower's relative, reciprocating clippers. If we want lift, those clippers are paired with a vacuum cleaner.
You may have had something really awesome if you could locate a used Toro Time Master deck - they use 2 blades. Mulching really long grass is probably not going to happen, so a side discharge might work better. Maybe adding flare tips to the exhaust pipes can enhance the appearance 😅
The thing to do for cutting tall grass, is to have an open front on the mower. That way you aren't folding the grass over as you're cutting it. Also makes it easier to push. There's no protection against stumps, but even a low power engine can cut tall grass.
and and connect it to your push mower grass blaster and use your riding mower to pull it around and around and around mowing front and rear power whahlah Problem solved !!Happy chopping
turbo's suck... its only until ya get up to speed they actually work....... but that beside the point... dunno, I'd take a brush hog to it..... 8 foot cutter,, meant for that kinda stuff. you do small lawns? we did acre's, asmallest was down by the lake, 2 and a 1/2 acre property
That's why a brush mower, made to tackle this type of stuff, has on open deck on the front. And also hydraulicly driven to make it easier to plow through all that.
10:41 grandpa who fought the Germans in the Ardenne Offensive, walking trough the woods after hearing this : “There’s a f**king Tiger Tank approaching 💀 💥”
I'd suggest a few things: provide a opening in the front of the deck so that the blade can engage the grass without folding it over, which should also help your forward rolling resistance. Second, get bigger wheels with pneumatic tires, it'll provide more deck height and provide for less rolling resistance. Third, weld up or open up a way for the clippings to be ejected, it will keep the blade from having to mulch all the already-cut grass. And rev it up and hold it open!
Gotta do a 2-pass method with this stuff. We bought land that had grass like this. We had a diesel Jacobsen G-4x4 (look it up, its a sweet tank of a lawn tractor) that had a 3 point in the front. We just lifted the front deck a foot off the ground and the rear deck as normal. I miss that Jacobsen, the transmission blew and they are very rare so it never got fixed. Not many tractors out there with: 4WD, 4 wheel steering, rear 3-point + PTO, and front 3-point + PTO. It also had a 2 speed gear box with ~4 forward and reverse gears. A truly universal machine.
I ran a 600cc twin propane driving a 27" buffing pad after hours in grocery stores. Loved it. Awesomely fast hard shine. Definitely cool fun project here.
Taller wheels would make it much easier to push - less rolling resistance. The deck can only process so much grass at a given speed. More RPM would help a little.
Take 2 passes. First pass at 2 feet (Maybetry bicycle tires to get proper height). 2nd pass at ground level (half and half). Maybe mount it in front of ride-on to knock the grass down so the ride-on can cut it properly. The problem is that when the grass is taller than your mowing deck is long, the grass gets flattened, which stops if from being cut.
The problem isn't the amount of power being used, blade sharpness, or blade/engine speed... it's the front of the deck(s) themselves: The leading edge of the blade housing just pushes the grass over before the blade(s) get a chance to cut it. If it were open--like on a brush mower--then it'd get a decent chance at initially cutting the grass near the base, thereby allowing it to be further chopped-up [and discharged] as smaller clippings by the blade... as how a rotary mower is designed to do. THEN is when the increased power is necessary to handle how heavy/thick the brush is.😕
Swapped a 12-hp Briggs in place of a 10-hp on a 36" lawn tractor, and used the longest length of black pipe at the local hardware as part of the exhaust. The result: Never needed to gear-down while mowing up slopes, and used less fuel than before.
Haha but can you get it to go over 50mph? LOL Love your videos. You've inspired me to modify a mower. I found a few older ones with 5 and 6 speed transaxles. There's even a really REALLY old Simplicity . Thanks for the inspiration man!
I'm in the process of putting a 16hp Briggs and Stratton engine on a John Deere JS46 self propelled Lawnmower frame & trust me, im definitely not going to have them problems your experiencing! But like your efforts though 👍
Not really any particular size is prescribed for an old twin, pretty much anywhere from 1.25" to 1.75" will work. Once you start really tuning with good carbs and whatnot, you'll need to pay more attention to exhaust and jets, though
I can't believe this many people have commented and no one seems to know this point. The blade is designed as a fan that can lift the grass with enough RPMs. get the blade spinning fast enough and it will raise the grass that has been bent over
The grass is 3-4 ft tall in this video - how are you going to "lift it" under the mower when it's bent over and actually sticking out the front of the mower?
The reason why it's not cutting the tall grass is because the deck is so low to the ground that it's pushing the grass flat and the blade can't get to it. What I would do is cut the front of the mower deck off and run a higher stabilization bar between the 2 front wheels. The grass will stay at a much higher angle by the time the blade hits it, and you're good to go!
I have a viewer suggestion. All you need to do is grind the metal off in between the front wheels so there’s a bigger opening on the the deck. It won’t bend the grass over as much. If you did that I bet it would make all the difference. Try it and make another video. It will turn that thing into a brush hog.
A few factors with that just for notes, the reason behind the extra power on idle is the back pressure used to govern the motor is gone, you hear it in the exhaust beat that it sounds like a motorcycle. You touched on the height issue, and yes, that is to be expected when those run pulleys before blades so they have to have extra height. The method of entry is another issue, you plowed into the field trying to grab as much as possible. You are not on a zero turn running a 48 inch deck with multiple blades, so do not do that. A single blade mower is intended to cut with about a third to a quarter of it's deck with making the initial cut with the rest for mulching and lifting the grass previously passed. The ideal thing to note is which side of the deck the blades swing forward. That is going to be the side you engage with first. Yours had the shoot on the right had side suggesting that they swing forward from the left had side. Even without the blades being sharpened, you can take down a field at 4 feet with the proper method... And a lot of fuel. Bad case of overcomplicating that job. This is an interesting one for seeing someone bring a mower out that can actually be a sight, and sound, to behold. Basically, it will take a couple of days to do it properly with any push mower, just because you cannot overfill the cavity you have where the blade is and expect it to cut ANYTHING! You plowed in and expected a cut patch to be made it would seem. Good idea, bad results. You can still use a mower like that. It's not garbage. Just remember to lead in with the left side 1/3rd of the deck, just above idle, and give the mower time to mulch the grass if you do not lift the right hand side shoot door. It doesn't need more than an average of 3600 RPM to lift grass up and move it. It will take you as long as it takes to have a relaxing walk to mow that area.
I think you have the most powerful push lawn mower on earth. Cuts very nicely. If you want that to cut four foot grass you need to open up the front of the deck just like a bush hog on a farm tractor. The problem is that the mower deck is pushing the grass down before it has a chance to cut it. Look at a Bush hog. The whole front of the deck is open so it can cut whatever it goes over. A push mower is enclosed because it is going to maintain a lawn to about four inches at the highest and a normal lawn is regularly maintained so this isn't normally an issue.
An opposed twin flat-head...cool! Very compact! Sounds great! (Obviously I know nothing about ride on mower engines if I didn't know this was a thing) You should open up the front of that thing so that you're not pushing down the grass before you mow it.
Man you should have put da big ass engine on a bigger, better and more stabler frame with adjustable height along with a self propelled system & raising the RPM to a more constant workable level for starters🤔
Cut the front of the mower deck, so the blade hits the grass without the mower deck bending it over. Raise the blade even higher. I cut a lakefront powerline right-of-way once a year with my $150 mower. Four feet tall? No problem.
The grass your trying to cut is taller than the size of the deck so when the mower frame pushes over the grass it's actually keeping the blades from touching it. Cutting out the front of the deck will allow the grass to be cut before the mower pushes it over but it will be extremely dangerous and could throw stuff from the front of the mower deck. That 3 and 4 foot grass really needs a bush-hog to cut it, but if you insist on building something yourself to cut it, I suggest using that twin cylinder Briggs and adapt it to a 28 or 30 inch rear engine snapper blade with add-on high lift fins. They bolt to the snapper blade. Build a strong deck with 4 wheels (2 in the front being casters for turning) and tow it behind the ridding mower. kind of a mini powered bush-hog. BTW, mower blades do have safe RPM ranges for different lengths, don't exceed it! Bad things can happen if you do... That's why pulleys and belts are used on mowers. It gives more power for the larger blade or multiple blades, but it also keeps the RPM range for the blades from being exceeded. Also keep in mind, safe engineering is your friend, building something like this can be deadly if you get careless and don't follow certain guidelines when designing. I was in the small engine repair business for almost 30 years. Blade length, spindle shaft diameter, and pulley & belt sizes are all relative to horsepower and RPM's. Have fun, but BE SAFE.
Very cool! My push mower has a clutch, and when I pull a lever the engine propels the front wheels to help with pushing. Adding something like that into the mower would really help! Or just build a hotrod driving mower.
In a tall Field I have ; (1) one time 3 decades ago I used an electric hedge trimmer tied to a hand truck. This worked well until I hit a piece of scrap barb wire near a fence and that broke the sintered iron gear in the 54 buck trimmer's transmission. Nobody local would work on it. I took the gear box apart and called weedeater and bought a new gear for 8 bucks and a spare for 8 and with shipping it was like 21 bucks. This was before the internet had much searches; maybe just "ask geves" . lol (2) many times for 3 decades I have used a 13 amp Black and Decker 18 to 20 inch mowers. Use 12 awg 100 ft cords. Mostly for just 100 ft around a barn; quick to reduced ticks on pants. lol. Eons ago I used 200 and 300 ft of cord and bumped the voltage up to 135 volts with a 20 amp variac. (3) Today I often use my string trim mower which cuts faster and has no cord (4) In a riding mower I have a old mid 1980s 11-32 Toro that I re engined with a big block 49 cid/ 810 cc V2. That thing cuts rather well. Have an extra deck for that mower and might try a disc mower hub and Flail blades as an experiment. *** The string trim mower is good in unknown fields; no blades to bend. **** But eons ago when brand new my string trim mower caught a hidden piece of rope and the engine instantly stopped and the internal governor gear broke in the crankcase. ie NO sheared flywheel.
Front of the deck is laying the grass over before the blade has a chance to cut it. Open the front of the deck up and it'll cut anything you have the strength to push it through. I did the same thing with a 22" push mower but i used a 10hp. It's the best rough brush mower ever.
I love my Briggs opposed twin! I got it out of an old Craftsman t1000 riding mower, then when that died I pulled the motor and put it on an old snapper I bought (Forest Gump style) then it sat outdoors for about 5 years and I put it in a John Deere t100 I bought for almost nothing with a blown motor.
U got this. My dad push mowed 12 acres of his new place in Missouri with boulders and high grass everywhere with a normal one. It took awhile but it looked better
I agree, the deck is pushing the grass down plus by the grass being 3 ft tall, when is pushed over it's too long to stand up under the deck. Each blade of grass is 36 to 48 inches long where the mower deck is only 22 or so inches
LOL! AWESOME! I thought about doing this with a 23HP Briggs V-Twin after viewing that electric push mower ad on the tube. You beat me to it! A+. Though after watching yours cut I think a self propelled mower would be a better option. That thing is super heavy.
open up the front of the deck a couple inches, that way the blade gets a chance to get into the tall stuff before it gets outta reach
THANK YOU
Yes, open the deck front & the front part of the blade guard/fence. Reinforce the top of the deck with angle iron to replace the removed deck front metal. The reinforcement angle iron should connect to the front wheel mounting metat so they won't bow out from the weight. This will stop the front of the deck metal from pushing over the grass! See how the Billy Goat brand field & brush mower front deck is designed & do something similar. You have plenty of engine & blade but you have got to stop pushing over the grass & it will cut for sure! Essentially you are kinda building a mini brush hog shredder that's open in the front!
Had to do that when both my tractors went down.
Wow this dude..
This. I actually cut 2 inch cutouts on my rider for this purpose, along with pine cones. Works like a charm. My deck was so damn hard it took a while to do with an oscillating tool carbide blade so maybe use a cut off wheel instead. Also put some damn Gator blades on that thing!!!
Hey.. I have 40 years experience in the lawnmower business. The problem is the mower deck is pushing the grass down. If you cut a notch out of the front of the mower it will cut the high grass
This
@My-Pal-Hal nice... you could've sat there and read quietly - instead you typed this comment and displayed your short-comings.
@@snjspring
No.
I typed My Comment, not yours.
So I'm going to assume it's your illiteracy that is holding back your English comprehension.
Best to understand a language, before understanding things written in it. That's where most people start 😂
... he doesn't get, obviously one of his many shortcomings 🤤
@@snjspring
That's not true.
I typed My Comment, not yours.
So I'm going to assume it's your illiteracy that is holding back your English comprehension.
Best to understand a language, before understanding things written in it. That's where most people start. A little bit of This, and a little bit of THAT 😂
... he doesn't get, obviously one of his many shortcomings
@@My-Pal-Hal I wish you well
As a commercial lawn care professional, try this to upgrade the push mow:
You need high lift blades, not the 3n1 mulch. You need a discharge big enough to expell the clippings.
Remember the science: you need a vacuum effect. With high lifts, you're pushing more air around, and wouldn't be a problem making that grass stand up underneath it after flattening it.
I've experimented like this when I first started. I've threw a Kawasaki 21hp on a push mower. With no pullies to reduce the blade speeds, you can imagine how fast the blades were going. Dam close to 2k rpm. At that point, a stick will leave indents on the frame.
Or, you can skip all of that and make a sickle bar mower. Lift doesn't really apply here as this is brush mower territory, not landscaping a hoity-toity suburban gated community house lawn. On long human hair we don't use a lawn mower, we use the sickle bar mower's relative, reciprocating clippers. If we want lift, those clippers are paired with a vacuum cleaner.
Correct
Its all about the size of the mower deck that bigger blade will cut the taller grass more cleanly no matter how much air the blade is moving
You may have had something really awesome if you could locate a used Toro Time Master deck - they use 2 blades. Mulching really long grass is probably not going to happen, so a side discharge might work better. Maybe adding flare tips to the exhaust pipes can enhance the appearance 😅
@@WJCTechyman yup. We take care of brush too. Commercial mowers handle it just fine
Might be the first time the "mower" part of a lawnmower was used in this channel
😂😂😂😂😂
I didn't even realize it was him because of exactly this
@@MisterdionneYT what starter did you get for your engine?
I keep screaming "REV IT UP AND LEAVE THE THROTTLE ALONE!!"
That's right!!! Thank you!!👍
EXACTLY !!!!!
The thing to do for cutting tall grass, is to have an open front on the mower. That way you aren't folding the grass over as you're cutting it. Also makes it easier to push. There's no protection against stumps, but even a low power engine can cut tall grass.
That's actually brilliant, good thinking
Imagine having some some hay. Always helpful advice from a keyboard warrior.
I came here to say this. Cut out the grunt of the deck between the wheels and he'll be golden.
Like a d.r. horton
and and connect it to your push mower grass blaster and use your riding mower to pull it around and around and around mowing front and rear power whahlah Problem solved !!Happy chopping
It’s folding the grass over, under the blade. Open the front, exposing the blade.
The push mower that never bogs. Lol
Nope
Fr lol
not even on idle
Give that thing some throttle 😂
And an ejection port.
You should take the 700cc motor and build a lawn mower for cutting. Swap the pulleys and add turbo😂😂😂😂
I’d love to see that
@@ksaab3946
ruclips.net/video/vai5NOIvKbQ/видео.html
turbo's suck... its only until ya get up to speed they actually work....... but that beside the point... dunno, I'd take a brush hog to it..... 8 foot cutter,, meant for that kinda stuff.
you do small lawns? we did acre's, asmallest was down by the lake, 2 and a 1/2 acre property
@@HarmonRAB-hp4nk ok
All the grass, dirt and other shit getting sucked up in the turbo wouldn't be worth a fuck
And people telling me tuning a chainsaw because i was boared is crazy. Meanwhile this madman rides a 700cc chopper lawmmower on his yard
now you need to make a 700cc weed eater
LOL 😂
Scary 😢
Was just thinking that
😂😂😂👍
he's gonna need an anti-vibration glove sponsor first! xD
3:13 “So much torque the chassis twisted coming off the line”
900hp of pure detroit muscle @_AlejandroGonzalez_
Air cooled engines are designed to run at higher rpm to keep cool. They can overheat by running at idle too long or low rpm.
these briggs opposed twins starve for oil at low rpm also, and can blow up from it. i run my idle at like 2k
this guy has a whole degree in time-wasteology....
With 4 ft tall grass is have to disagree, loser
Shut up
I think we all learned something here. I'm glad he tried before me.
Harley Hay Hacker
That's why a brush mower, made to tackle this type of stuff, has on open deck on the front.
And also hydraulicly driven to make it easier to plow through all that.
He's a crazy kind of guy with lot's of time and energy on his hands.
Higher revs
Open deck up in front
Sharpen blade
Cut half widths
BINGO
10:41 grandpa who fought the Germans in the Ardenne Offensive, walking trough the woods after hearing this : “There’s a f**king Tiger Tank approaching 💀 💥”
That engine sounds sick.
I'd suggest a few things: provide a opening in the front of the deck so that the blade can engage the grass without folding it over, which should also help your forward rolling resistance. Second, get bigger wheels with pneumatic tires, it'll provide more deck height and provide for less rolling resistance. Third, weld up or open up a way for the clippings to be ejected, it will keep the blade from having to mulch all the already-cut grass. And rev it up and hold it open!
Something that Tim the toolman taylor would had created. Hahaha 😂
1:38 le big prend tes mains pas tes pied 🤣j’adore tes vids ❤
700cc? That’s a mowercycle!
Ohhh, I found this soooo pleasing....it put a big smile on my face at 12.45am . Nice one matey.
Gotta do a 2-pass method with this stuff. We bought land that had grass like this.
We had a diesel Jacobsen G-4x4 (look it up, its a sweet tank of a lawn tractor) that had a 3 point in the front. We just lifted the front deck a foot off the ground and the rear deck as normal.
I miss that Jacobsen, the transmission blew and they are very rare so it never got fixed. Not many tractors out there with: 4WD, 4 wheel steering, rear 3-point + PTO, and front 3-point + PTO. It also had a 2 speed gear box with ~4 forward and reverse gears. A truly universal machine.
I ran a 600cc twin propane driving a 27" buffing pad after hours in grocery stores. Loved it. Awesomely fast hard shine. Definitely cool fun project here.
Push mower needs a lift kit. Let's say 6" lift kit.
Bro. That is so dangerous.
I love it!!
Taller wheels would make it much easier to push - less rolling resistance.
The deck can only process so much grass at a given speed. More RPM would help a little.
I laughed, I cried, this video has it all!
Love ur vids bro
Take 2 passes. First pass at 2 feet (Maybetry bicycle tires to get proper height). 2nd pass at ground level (half and half). Maybe mount it in front of ride-on to knock the grass down so the ride-on can cut it properly.
The problem is that when the grass is taller than your mowing deck is long, the grass gets flattened, which stops if from being cut.
The problem isn't the amount of power being used, blade sharpness, or blade/engine speed... it's the front of the deck(s) themselves: The leading edge of the blade housing just pushes the grass over before the blade(s) get a chance to cut it. If it were open--like on a brush mower--then it'd get a decent chance at initially cutting the grass near the base, thereby allowing it to be further chopped-up [and discharged] as smaller clippings by the blade... as how a rotary mower is designed to do. THEN is when the increased power is necessary to handle how heavy/thick the brush is.😕
Totally enclosed plate steel deck....
ruclips.net/video/vai5NOIvKbQ/видео.html
Swapped a 12-hp Briggs in place of a 10-hp on a 36" lawn tractor, and used the longest length of black pipe at the local hardware as part of the exhaust. The result: Never needed to gear-down while mowing up slopes, and used less fuel than before.
Love the videos keep it up
Thanks! Will do!
I have a 656cc engine in my car and here a 700 cc motor powers a damn pushmower......
I would add a throttle control just for that extra power.
Everybody is in a race to get something done. This guy is one of them. Lol nice build. Do an update when you open up the front of the deck.
Haha but can you get it to go over 50mph? LOL Love your videos. You've inspired me to modify a mower. I found a few older ones with 5 and 6 speed transaxles. There's even a really REALLY old Simplicity . Thanks for the inspiration man!
I'm in the process of putting a 16hp Briggs and Stratton engine on a John Deere JS46 self propelled Lawnmower frame & trust me, im definitely not going to have them problems your experiencing! But like your efforts though 👍
what size pipes do you use for the exhaust on these engines?
Not really any particular size is prescribed for an old twin, pretty much anywhere from 1.25" to 1.75" will work. Once you start really tuning with good carbs and whatnot, you'll need to pay more attention to exhaust and jets, though
a walk behind trimmer is so much better than a weed eater
World’s heaviest push mower 😂
ya, really. I wouldn't even attempt that unless it was a deck designed for self-propel. I wouldn't want to push that bitch across a high grass field.
Great post! Fun project! I'm mighty glad you didn't trip when you were pulling that monster backwards.
I can't believe this many people have commented and no one seems to know this point. The blade is designed as a fan that can lift the grass with enough RPMs. get the blade spinning fast enough and it will raise the grass that has been bent over
No way 😮
The grass is 3-4 ft tall in this video - how are you going to "lift it" under the mower when it's bent over and actually sticking out the front of the mower?
So I should knife edge the back of my blades to make them aerodynamic?
Get some goats. 🐐🐐🐐 😊
Bro, your engine has a cool mower, BUT HOLY JESUS HOW MUCH DOWNFORCE DOES THAT MAKE?!
The same as a normal mower. Rpm doesn’t change
The reason why it's not cutting the tall grass is because the deck is so low to the ground that it's pushing the grass flat and the blade can't get to it. What I would do is cut the front of the mower deck off and run a higher stabilization bar between the 2 front wheels. The grass will stay at a much higher angle by the time the blade hits it, and you're good to go!
You have to rent the engine up more for it to cut 4 feet of grass or else it won’t work
Dude was too busy asking if he could that he never asked if he should
Sounds freakin AMAZING!!!! 👍🏾
Ohyeaaaah a video from MisterDionne
I have a viewer suggestion. All you need to do is grind the metal off in between the front wheels so there’s a bigger opening on the the deck. It won’t bend the grass over as much. If you did that I bet it would make all the difference. Try it and make another video. It will turn that thing into a brush hog.
A few factors with that just for notes, the reason behind the extra power on idle is the back pressure used to govern the motor is gone, you hear it in the exhaust beat that it sounds like a motorcycle. You touched on the height issue, and yes, that is to be expected when those run pulleys before blades so they have to have extra height.
The method of entry is another issue, you plowed into the field trying to grab as much as possible. You are not on a zero turn running a 48 inch deck with multiple blades, so do not do that. A single blade mower is intended to cut with about a third to a quarter of it's deck with making the initial cut with the rest for mulching and lifting the grass previously passed. The ideal thing to note is which side of the deck the blades swing forward. That is going to be the side you engage with first. Yours had the shoot on the right had side suggesting that they swing forward from the left had side. Even without the blades being sharpened, you can take down a field at 4 feet with the proper method... And a lot of fuel. Bad case of overcomplicating that job.
This is an interesting one for seeing someone bring a mower out that can actually be a sight, and sound, to behold. Basically, it will take a couple of days to do it properly with any push mower, just because you cannot overfill the cavity you have where the blade is and expect it to cut ANYTHING! You plowed in and expected a cut patch to be made it would seem. Good idea, bad results. You can still use a mower like that. It's not garbage. Just remember to lead in with the left side 1/3rd of the deck, just above idle, and give the mower time to mulch the grass if you do not lift the right hand side shoot door. It doesn't need more than an average of 3600 RPM to lift grass up and move it. It will take you as long as it takes to have a relaxing walk to mow that area.
I think you have the most powerful push lawn mower on earth. Cuts very nicely. If you want that to cut four foot grass you need to open up the front of the deck just like a bush hog on a farm tractor. The problem is that the mower deck is pushing the grass down before it has a chance to cut it. Look at a Bush hog. The whole front of the deck is open so it can cut whatever it goes over. A push mower is enclosed because it is going to maintain a lawn to about four inches at the highest and a normal lawn is regularly maintained so this isn't normally an issue.
Idle it up bro!!
That thing is morbidly badass 💯
Finally! A practical lawnmower!
10:40 Your neighbors must be wondering why you are revving your Harley for hours 😂
Perfect for mowing in April when "just let it dry out" isn't a thing.
Great to see another fun video from you again! 👍 Please keep it up, by the way this is the coolest push mower i've ever seen!!!
Thank you very much!
@@MisterdionneYT try a push mower engine in a riding mower!
Best sounding mower I've heard!
"Fully built stroker mower for sale barely used $25,000. DON'T LOW BALL ME I KNOW WHAT I GOT."
Casually enjoying a coffee and hearing this beast from a mile away
An opposed twin flat-head...cool! Very compact! Sounds great!
(Obviously I know nothing about ride on mower engines if I didn't know this was a thing)
You should open up the front of that thing so that you're not pushing down the grass before you mow it.
Man you should have put da big ass engine on a bigger, better and more stabler frame with adjustable height along with a self propelled system & raising the RPM to a more constant workable level for starters🤔
When you hooked the throttle up I was super stoked 😊
Cut the front of the mower deck, so the blade hits the grass without the mower deck bending it over. Raise the blade even higher.
I cut a lakefront powerline right-of-way once a year with my $150 mower. Four feet tall? No problem.
The mad Max of lawn mowers thank you sir
I love the "Harley" beat of this lawnmower!
Love the twin exhaust pipes!
That's why BUSH HOGS were invented!!!
When your dates at 4 and you only have 30 mins to get the lawn mowed!
Best sounding mower ever!
The grass your trying to cut is taller than the size of the deck so when the mower frame pushes over the grass it's actually keeping the blades from touching it. Cutting out the front of the deck will allow the grass to be cut before the mower pushes it over but it will be extremely dangerous and could throw stuff from the front of the mower deck. That 3 and 4 foot grass really needs a bush-hog to cut it, but if you insist on building something yourself to cut it, I suggest using that twin cylinder Briggs and adapt it to a 28 or 30 inch rear engine snapper blade with add-on high lift fins. They bolt to the snapper blade. Build a strong deck with 4 wheels (2 in the front being casters for turning) and tow it behind the ridding mower. kind of a mini powered bush-hog.
BTW, mower blades do have safe RPM ranges for different lengths, don't exceed it! Bad things can happen if you do... That's why pulleys and belts are used on mowers. It gives more power for the larger blade or multiple blades, but it also keeps the RPM range for the blades from being exceeded. Also keep in mind, safe engineering is your friend, building something like this can be deadly if you get careless and don't follow certain guidelines when designing. I was in the small engine repair business for almost 30 years. Blade length, spindle shaft diameter, and pulley & belt sizes are all relative to horsepower and RPM's. Have fun, but BE SAFE.
Very cool! My push mower has a clutch, and when I pull a lever the engine propels the front wheels to help with pushing. Adding something like that into the mower would really help! Or just build a hotrod driving mower.
I LOVE HOW YOU START IT
Sounds like a motorcycle. Love it.
In a tall Field I have ;
(1) one time 3 decades ago I used an electric hedge trimmer tied to a hand truck.
This worked well until I hit a piece of scrap barb wire near a fence and that broke the sintered iron gear in the 54 buck trimmer's transmission. Nobody local would work on it. I took the gear box apart and called weedeater and bought a new gear for 8 bucks and a spare for 8 and with shipping it was like 21 bucks. This was before the internet had much searches; maybe just "ask geves" . lol
(2) many times for 3 decades I have used a 13 amp Black and Decker 18 to 20 inch mowers. Use 12 awg 100 ft cords. Mostly for just 100 ft around a barn; quick to reduced ticks on pants. lol. Eons ago I used 200 and 300 ft of cord and bumped the voltage up to 135 volts with a 20 amp variac.
(3) Today I often use my string trim mower which cuts faster and has no cord
(4) In a riding mower I have a old mid 1980s 11-32 Toro that I re engined with a big block 49 cid/ 810 cc V2. That thing cuts rather well.
Have an extra deck for that mower and might try a disc mower hub and Flail blades as an experiment.
*** The string trim mower is good in unknown fields; no blades to bend. **** But eons ago when brand new my string trim mower caught a hidden piece of rope and the engine instantly stopped and the internal governor gear broke in the crankcase. ie NO sheared flywheel.
Sounds AWESOME, but there is no way I am ever pushing a mower again.
Front of the deck is laying the grass over before the blade has a chance to cut it. Open the front of the deck up and it'll cut anything you have the strength to push it through. I did the same thing with a 22" push mower but i used a 10hp. It's the best rough brush mower ever.
It needs bigger wheels so it cuts half at the time
9:45 *Honey our neighbour is pushing his Harley in the grassfield again*
Bro this is a childhood dream 😂❤
Imagine how stoked he would be if someone showed him a weed eater
700cc trimmer would be an interesting experiment
Best part of my day
Ya oughta put exhaust flappers on top since you've got stacks on it!
Awesome build that thing looks hilarious
The sound is insane!
Still sounds better then most Honda Civics.
700cc, I am surprised the grass doesn't just fall down when it hears this beast.
I love my Briggs opposed twin! I got it out of an old Craftsman t1000 riding mower, then when that died I pulled the motor and put it on an old snapper I bought (Forest Gump style) then it sat outdoors for about 5 years and I put it in a John Deere t100 I bought for almost nothing with a blown motor.
You had too much fun!
The push mower was probably struggling more because it couldn't eject what it had already cut fast enough.
U got this. My dad push mowed 12 acres of his new place in Missouri with boulders and high grass everywhere with a normal one. It took awhile but it looked better
I agree, the deck is pushing the grass down plus by the grass being 3 ft tall, when is pushed over it's too long to stand up under the deck. Each blade of grass is 36 to 48 inches long where the mower deck is only 22 or so inches
Briggs oppy’s are absolutely excellent motors.
Yes they are!
LOL! AWESOME! I thought about doing this with a 23HP Briggs V-Twin after viewing that electric push mower ad on the tube. You beat me to it! A+. Though after watching yours cut I think a self propelled mower would be a better option. That thing is super heavy.