DIY: Troubleshooting Lawn Mower Electrical Issues - Mower Will Not Start
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2015
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My MTD Gold Series riding mower would not start. It would not even make a clicking sound when the key was turned. This video walks you through the process of determining the electrical issue.
Here are some Amazon links to make finding the parts used in this video easier:
Replacement Safety Switch - amzn.to/3iqsksc
Solenoid - amzn.to/2ZgSINV
Fuse Assortment - amzn.to/3k0NqxN
Multimeter - amzn.to/3jZiVsc
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I can't tell you how thankful I am for you and your video. I am 55, disabled female, with severe trouble with my hands and on a very low income. I asked 4 different men to help me fix my mower and got no offers. I searched on-line and found your video and watched. Then over a period of 3 days, started checking all the points of contracts on the kill switches. I got to the solenoid, which I cried a lot over, because it has painful to get my hands inside the battery box and fender. But I did it, tested it as you showed and nothing. Ordered a new one and installed the next day. Turned the key and shouted out in joy and my mower started up, because this girl was able to do it with your help. Thank you so much.
Donna Brown Thank you for sharing. Your determination is admirable. I'm glad my video helped you get the mower back up and running.
@Donna Brown...Good for you!! I had a stroke, so I know full well what your going through. I used to do this stuff all the time, now it takes quite a lot longer to get anything done.
you go girl :)
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You go girl !! Congratulations YOU fixed it. This video is excellent WAY excellent better than most
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
Thank you for showing how to test the switches. Most videos I had watched (10+) was about bypassing the switches, not fixing the problem.
My pleasure!
Simplified & precise explanation for checking safety switches, solenoid for starting problems
Scott Pettit Thank you. I try to make helpful no frills videos.
Thanks for your video series!!! New mowers are so expensive and then they sit out in the rain....Glad to restore an older mower
Mike Matthews You are welcome. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you sir.
Mower wasn't giving any heart beat at all. I thought it was electrical. And your video helped me a lot. It was a loose connection at the break switch..
Once again thank you a lot!
Blessings!!
Great! Glad you were able to find the issue!
Thank you! Great video. Watched several other videos, yours is the only one that helped....I had a bad solenoid.
Keep the videos coming!
Glad you were able to find the issue. Electrical issues can be the hardest to diagnose.
TightWad it was my starter solenoid and battery, a Big Thank You! i can now cut my grass, my nephew fixed it for me, i done some bartering on the labor.
That is awesome! Thank you for sharing your success.
Thank you for posting this. I tested everything but the solenoid and was just about to give up. Installed a new $14 solenoid and voila the grass gets mowed again! Big thumbs up!
That’s great news!
Thank you for showing us the switches and how to test them. I just changed the same solenoid on my neighbor's mower. Her Daddy's friend took it off 2 weeks ago and didn't come back. I learned how to put it back properly.
Burt Burt That’s great! I’m glad you were able to get it fixed.
Thank you for all the info's It is by far One of the best diagnostic for electric system..
Frank Arjmand Thank you, Frank. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thank you for having a video explaining all these steps. It was hard finding a video to troubleshoot the sensors
George beauchamp You are welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for the video. I was able to replace a reverse/cutoff switch on my ZTR mower due to this video. I still don't quite understand the open and closed on the switches, but I just put the one that tested the same as the new one back on. Saved me a bunch of money. Only spent $13.00 instead of a minimum charge of who knows how much.
Harold Coots That’s great! I’m glad you were able to diagnose and fix your issue.
Thank you and well done video of walking thru the electrical safety switches and solenoid for troubleshooting.
Luis Ferrans You are welcome, Luis. Thank you for the kind comment. Be sure to subscribe and hit that thumbs up!
Yes
6 years later and your video is still helping people. I am repairing a Zero Turn Toro mower that is a no crank no start. I suspect the starter but will go through and check all of the safety switches using my multimeter first so I don't become a part changer. I hope it is not the starter because it is a pain to get to. I have replaced one before and it was almost impossible. It has the solenoid attached to the starter. I am going to try hitting it gently at first to see if it is stuck.
I’m glad the video is still helping people out! Check the solenoid too.
Nice video and thorough. I had the same problem, not even a clicking sound. Turned out to be a kill switch. You saved me a lot of money with this. Thank you!
I'm glad you found the video helpful. I love saving money but it is even better when I help others save money too!
+TightWadRepairs It is a 20+ year old mower but still kicking. Also learned to do a carburetor rebuild to keep it going a few years ago. I love RUclips... even learned to replace the igniter in our gas oven.
Thanks so much for the reply. unfortunately the battery cable was the very last thing I checked and you were spot on. IT was loose. However It did cut off again after I retightened it and for some reason the seat safety had an issue. I put a paper clip to tie the safety together just to see if that would fix the problem and it started right up. I will have to replace the seat safety. Thanks so much for putting out such a great video. It is always a great feeling when you don't have to lug your ride to some mechanic just to replace something as simple as what I had. At least in watching your video I had a more confident place to start then just wondering what to do. Thanks again. Peace, Reese
Hello TightwaddyDIY: Your video helped me order a new solenoid. I removed old solenoid and now hoping that new solenoid gets my craftsman riding mower again !!
Fingers crossed!
I have spent the past week trying to figure out what is wrong with my MTD. Bought a new ignition switch, but no help. You video has given me a very good, systematic way of trouble-shooting the problem. Thank you for posting.
Gene Ballay You are welcome. The electrical issues are the most frustrating. Be sure to subscribe. I have several videos for this mower.
great tutorial. I went thru all the switches on mine, then removed and tested the solenoid exactly as your video showed. it clicked but not consistently. I filed the corrosion off of the post, put it all back together and it fired first try. Thanks!
y2knole That is awesome! I’m glad you were able to get it fixed. Be sure to subscribe!
Bingo! Debris on the blade cutout...if it weren't for your helpful video, I wouldn't have known about it. Thank you!
Simply Awesome! Thank you so much for producing this video. Especially for carefully explaining & actually demonstrating, testing of a lawn tractors electronic components! (I’m 60, and it’s still wonderful to learn something new! I’ve always had a couple testing meters in with my tools, in case someone else needed it to fix my current issue. Now, I’ll be able to use it myself, on my mower and hopefully on my model trains!) ⭐️
You’re welcome. I love knowing how things work and I also love teaching.
Awesome video. I've been checking out videos on this topic and this is the clearest, most concise step by step one I've seen yet. By the way... it's a solenoid, not a sillynoid, silly!
Brian Thanks. I am a teacher by trade so I do my best to give clear instructions. It’s a sillynoid in the south!
I rarely commnent on videos, but you have saved my sanity. Turns out the solenoid kan be installed the wrong way. Thank you!
Thorbjørn I really appreciate you taking time to comment and I’m always happy to help. I several mower repair videos so you should subscribe.
I don't understand how the solenoid can be installed the wrong way! You can put the large red wires on either of the large bolts//studs and the smaller wires on either of the other two contacts.
Thank you tight wad youve just got my mower working
Adrian Pugh That is great news! What ended up being your issue?
Thank you for your great video, fixed my problem brake switch.
dean brossy I’m glad you were able to get it fixed! I have several other videos for this same mower. Be sure to subscribe.
Excellent video.Thank you for sharing.
Human angel You are welcome. Let us know what ends up being your problem.
Been pulling my hair out // no start /no crank … Cub Cadet LT 1045 is 18 yrs old … have rebuilt ton of stuff over the years .. till now …starter and solenoid test good but need obviously to test safety switches … your detailed electrical troubleshooting video instruction is the best I’ve seen .. BAR NONE‼️ finding the dang switches is at least half the battle… so now I will battle on… thank you Sir , for further testing process . I do have a 2 yr old 46 in cut Cubbie that is great …but I need a backup tractor that I can beat on to haul wood, yank down tree trunks .. cut tall weed paths etc thanks for passing on your smarts and experience .
I hear ya! Finding electrical issues is never fun. Can you jump the solenoid and get it to start?
I did try 2 days ago to jump direct to starter with power pack … starter seemed to jamb . and drag its feet ..solenoid does click but is weak /not strongI ..bench checked it … didn t seem right .. centrifugal drive gear seem to jump out, but I didn’t think with the right beef steak /rpm
steak ..today I put in new correct starter .. and new solenoid .. on the agenda morning tomorrow to try to start with ign switch .. then if won’t start , direct power to new starter on the tractor..…
My main problem isn’t necessarily fixing the tractor… I have lost 70%of my vision in my left eye and have double vision with what’s left ..have had numerous surgeries at the 🎉 Ann Arbor .world class surgeons but Graves disease / Thyroid Eye Disease which you see described on TV all the time ..for me allwent to the end degree All my testing is backwards. I know I would normally start with my multimeter when I could see straight but tracking wires and reading a meter is increasing with difficult have restored five Model A for over the years and a few other things but that’s all behind me now . 73 yrs still trying to be busy building or fixing things …thank you for your, fast response I appreciate it…
“Don’t Let the Old Man In “ 🎶Mr Toby Keith to his buddy Clint Eastwood
I type using one eye only …this took me almost an hour . I will keep you posted on result. 🚜 Call
Thanks Man you Help me Out I needed this Video..
Timothy Harden Glad I was able to help.
Great video. I heard a loud wack when I was backing up in the snow with mine right from the solenoid area so I think that may be it. I'll buy the tester to see. It's not getting lights or any power and had been driven over an hour before. Now I know where the safety switches are ,thank you.
U.P. dan Check the fuse first because it’s easiest.
Thanks best videos on safe switches l have seen 👍👍 been checking a Troy built pony for a friend 👍👍
Marshall dillion I’m glad you found it helpful. I have several mower repair videos so be sure to subscribe.
thanks ,my husqvarna 46,had a no start,I've replaced various things,but this was great use if continuity tester,my battery is good,...lights are independent of keyswitch,anyhow I moved it and it started working again,could be parking switch,anyhow feeling confident, I've set the air gap on magnetos,adjusted choke,and it starts easier,dad was so good with a meter ,now it's my turn to learn, I know theres lots of variations ,and a few similarities,I subbed to your channel,
Mark Bidwell It sounds like you had a great person to learn from!
The solenoid locations are ridiculous and hard to deal with. Now I have to go recheck my ground. I have to disconnect and remove my battery just to get to it and have to reinstall everything just to TEST it. In 3 seasons, my solenoid has failed 3 times. Why couldn't it be something easy. Good video and good camera work. Thanks for the help.
It’s definitely in a terrible location.
Great to see that inplix has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
THNK YOU! This was very helpful.
Hypno Abel You are very welcome. I hope you were able to get your mower back up and running.
Thank You so very very much for this information and trouble shooting skills of a great mechanic
Merry Christmas
My pleasure!
Great video and well explained, I’ve got a newer model, same principle, my problem is intermittent sometimes turns over then won’t, I will follow your advice and post what I find, happy mowing all !
Glad it helped.
And anyway your the only one that did a great video thanks for taking your time to explain it like a pro, thanks 👍
I’m glad you enjoyed it.
thanks for the most complete and intelligent explanation. I have a craftsman DLT3000, ran great all summer.went to use it yesterday ,no sound at all. the battery checks at 13 volts .the solinoid was replaced(4 post). Now when you hit the starter with the key the power is active through both lower posts ,only one top post. any ideas
This was great, I have this issue with my mower and your Video was quick and to the point. I think it is the PTO switch for the blade you showed first. Funny a lawnmower repair place to me that has nothing to do with it, it just stops the motor. Thanks
Hope you can get yours fixed!
It's on of the best infos..thank u so much..
suzuki gsxr You are welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful.
U have been the only video to show the location of the safety switchs which is great because I have disabilties that make it hard to move like I was younger now I have a idea as to where I should Look
It wasn’t easy to get the camera in there to film them so I’m happy to hear it helped you out.
Life saver. Appreciate it big time!!
John Wiechel You are welcome. I have several videos for this mower. Be sure to subscribe.
You got it man. My mower is doing that, turn the key and nothing no click or anything. So went ahead and picked up a solenoid just in case. After the rain stops I'll check everything out! Troy bilt pony, but exact same mower besides a Briggs engine
Thanks so much for getting back with me.. Ok this is what I did... I ran a wire from the hot side of the solenoid to little wire on the solenoid and it turned over..so now I know it's not the solenoid.. next I did the same thing but I turned the key to the run position and pulled down on the break engaging the killswitch and it started.. so now I know it's not the solenoid or the killswitch to the break..I'm thinking either a broke wire or the ignition switch is out...
Good video but it’s much faster if you first check the fuse then the starter then the solenoid. Then work your way through the safety switches. If you have power at the starter or the solenoid then you know the safety switches are good. It can save you the time and trouble of having to test each switch.
one of the best videos for diagnosing the safety switches I've seen!
Mural Cook I’m glad you found it helpful. Be sure to subscribe.
Well made video. Very informative.
Dave Dennis Thanks! I appreciate that.
Thanks for your video
Your my hero, thanks!
My problem was that 20 fuse under the battery. I was 5 min in taking it to a shop. You saved me thanks.
I’m glad I was able to help, Gary. Be sure you subscribe!
I can’t find the fuse
Thanks for showing us how to test solenoids. I had a solenoid problem too that was nothing more than the positive cable severed off from the solenoid. The cable is moved back and forth all the time when disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to the point that eventually one or two strands hold to the solenoid.
I’m glad you figured it out!
Amillion likes,thanks for your video
I am glad it helped you. Thanks!
Great video, my kill switch on foot brake had come loose.
Thanks
Graham Stewart You are welcome! I’m glad you were able to find and fix the issue.
I've watched SOOOO many videos on Craftsman riding mowers I thought my head was going to pop. You were very good! I changed my solenoid (had same problem as you) but still won't start. I can jump it. And it will start. But I was wanting to know if you would do an ignition removal video because I think that's my problem. Thank you forsuch clear, concise, & detailed video.
-Lynn
RRePETE Unfortunately, I don't have this mower anymore so I am unable to make new videos. I think you are on the right track though. The ignition switch has to send a charge to the solenoid to make it work. It could still be a kill switch though.
great job making this video
Why thank you!
So helpful thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great video.
Brian Lindsay Thanks. Be sure to subscribe!
Can't thank you enough...... After going thru the steps mine was the switch under the brake. After putting new blades and belt on' my girlfriend some how cocked it sideways while helping me. Again....thanks
You are very welcome. I'm happy to hear the video was helpful. Be sure to subscribe so you can find me again if you have other issues.
Thanks for the video.I have a John Deere Sabre that will not start. I have replaced the starter switch and solenoid. Checked all for continuity and every part seems to be fine. I replaced the fuse. Still nothing when I turn the key. I have jump started it but when I take my foot off the brake it stalls. What have I missed or done wrong?
Don't get me wrong it was a very informative video on how to troubleshoot so thank you very much but I just wanted to point out the safety issue also!!!
That seems to be the problem I have in my Ariens. Thanks, I'll test the solenoid now that I learned how to do it.
Melina rada johnson I'm always happy to help.
Great video
william becker I’m glad you found it helpful. Be sure to subscribe.
Great educational videos
sgtlewisbond Thank you. I’m a teacher by trade. Be sure to subscribe!
best machine i ever see ,,, this machine can tell you if a fuse is open ,,,Amazing machine ,,,and tell if a battery have 12 v ,, i can'not believe a machine that size have so much brain's ,,,and you too to operating this machine ,,, Amazing man,,,,,
less time Thank you!
Good video. Thank U.
My pleasure.
Very interesting i learn more about this topic thanks from peewee
good job -thanks
Charles Young I appreciate you taking the time to leave a kind comment.
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Thank you Thank you
Thank you for the clear instructions. My Craftsman is set up exactly as this MTD. Solenoid and two safety switches tested fine though. Solenoid makes high pitch sound when trying to start. Any ideas of what I can try next?
I figured out battery is faulty. Tested fine, but tested again while starting and only putting out 4 to 5 volts.
Well done video of walking thru the electrical safety switches and solenoid for troubleshooting, my mower want even click so i will try to see if watching this will solve my problem GOOD VIDEO! Thanks Man! you help me out I needed this Video.
Joseph R Moore You are very welcome. Be sure to subscribe.
I am a Subscriber, i did it after watching your video, wish me luck ...please
Joseph R Moore I'm confident you will figure it out! Report back and let us know.
How do you bypass all those safety switchs from the key ign. Switch?
Thanks and God bless.
My pleasure!
Thank you so much for this video. I will be applying this knowledge tomorrow so maybe I can mow my damned lawn. My tractor is similar enough to yours that I expect to be able to find everything in the places you described.
Robert Cairns I hope you can get it running! Let me know if you have any questions.
@@TightWadDIY Because of your video, I was able to find that the brake pedal was not engaging the safety switch. It looks like it never touched a lot of the switch and things loosened up over time. I can see where the tab from the brake pedal shaved off the side of the button. That also explains why the mower stalls when I get off the seat even when the brake is engaged. I'm deciding now whether to try to add material to the button or put a jumper in the switch. Either way, you helped me a lot.
Robert Cairns Thata great! I’m glad you were able to figure it out.
@@TightWadDIY Decided the jumper was easier. Works like a charm. Did some other maintenance while I had it apart and it starts and runs great.
The first thing I would test is if the solenoid it getting 12v when key is in start position, if yes, bad solenoid, if no safety switch
Hey mate on start my solonoid is getting 12v - but the problem is it's getting 12v to both wires. As one should be a negative it's not working - any insight on why this is I've checked all the switches battery and key switch all fine.
@@rockybasnayaka5289 Not sure what's going on there. I would disconnect the black wire from solenoid, then run a separate jumper wire from the now open tab on the solenoid to the negative terminal on battery. Then see if it starts. This is bypassing the saftey switches so do at your own risk. If it does not start try jumping the soleniod terminals with a screwdriver, if that starts it then the soleniod is bad and starter is good. Please let us know if it works. I'm betting it will.
@@Old600Rusty thanks for the reply mate. I've tried jumping the solenoid and it works when the kill wire if off the coil. I'll try what you've suggested with the black wire to buypass the safety switches. This mower is a swiss stiga. The worst mower I've ever had to work on. Can't find anything in English for this, can it be a control unit issue? This had a blown camshaft and I've tried jumping it a lot of times. Now the engine is all sorted but have the issue with starting as above.
Tanks mi amigo 👍👍👍👍👍
De nada! Gracias por comentar.
ha what would happen if u removed the yellow wire from the switch would that kll all the safty switched so the mover would start thanks
I had a solonoid click only, I removed the starter and found the top bearing seized and could be barely turned. so I dissembled the starter all but the armeture , housing and bottom end plate, I then carefully wire brushed the top armeture shaft at the bearing point and reassembled it and it worked perfectly.
Robert Larocque Congrats on the successful repair.
Great video and to the point. I have a kubota zero turn, clicks and solenoid tested good, and will start if you make the solenoid connection with a wrench, but not turning the key?
That is really odd. So you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key but the engine doesn’t turn over at all? Then when you jump the terminals on the solenoid it starts? If it didn’t click when you turned the key I would say it’s the key switch.
@@TightWadDIY I was mistaken in that I did hear a click, but something else clicks when you turn the key , and was NOT the solenoid, tested the switch and that was it. The first 2 switch positions worked but not when you turned to crank. Replaced it, good to go, thanks for your pointers!
@@pcdubya Great! I’m glad you got it working!
Great straight to the point video. But you forgot to mention that the ignition switch can also cause this issue and show the process for testing. This may leave a lot of your viewers confused if that ends up being the culprit...
bigden31 You are correct. There are a variety of other issues that could cause an electrical malfunction. This was not an all inclusive list of potential issues but it addresses the primary culprits.
Indeed I found some very useful information here
I once upon a time heard it said information is hard to find I do think it to be true
How ever it is again in the search and how badly an individual wants to learn the answer
Been fighting with stuff someone else did
And trying to get it back to right
Always the same thing with a used anything
Now I am neither satisfied yet to say I have the answer but I can say I know it's closer to the point
Yep to many things can cause a no start like in cars although very different
With what I learned here should be able to get back out there and cut some grass
Thank you for shareing
My pleasure.
video helped me thanks .i noticed that red wire attached to the cylinoid is not attached yo the cylinoid on my mower so that should be the problem .thanks
Hopefully that gets you fixed up!
@@TightWadDIY it did .the whole piece came out of the cylinoid i put it back " in " started right up
Before you test any switch you need to know if it is N.O. normally opened or (N.C.) normally closed. a wiring diagram for your machine will tell you how the switch operates. Sometimes it's very difficult to find the correct wiring diagram because of age or in some cases it has been discontinued.
William Davis It’s helpful to know but not a necessity in this case. As long as one side functions one way and the other side functions the opposite then you are good.
Great video and very informative... I have a Cub Cadet 2166 and 2 months ago it ran perfectly.. the other day wouldn't start, turn over nothing.. I replaced the battery and still nothing.. so its either a kill switch or a solenoid?
MR DEAN V Start with the fuse and then the solenoid. If the fuse is good, you can cross the poles on the solenoid to see if the mower starts.
can you provide a link on where to order a solenoid ?
Hi good videos I have a cub cadet model 17brcaca009, when I start it start but when the blade start working cutting for five minute slow down and turn it off , then I start again it start bit do the same thing, any idea what wrong with it
I have a Cub Cadet GT 1554 (another fine MTD product). It has been occasionally hard to start. I am not sure if I have a bad alternator or starter. I just recently replaced the battery. Sometimes it will start but just barely. I sometimes have to reach under it with a breaker bar and socket and turn the engine a bit so the starter will turn it. This tractor has not been a maintenance hog. All I ever had to do was change a bad ignition coil that made it run badly. There are two on this one, it is a twin cylinder engine with a vertical shaft. The only thing that I ever found annoying about this one is that I had to choke it almost every time I start it and it has been that way for years but always started up and never gave me trouble, other than that and that previously mentioned bad coil which made it perform lousily. I am suspecting a bad alternator or starter. The only thing I do not like about that alternator is that it is not like the type found on modern car engines but rather it is buried under a few things and is really a part of the engine itself. I wonder if it was done to save space because that is the one and *ONLY* valid reason to design something that way. Once in the past I changed the starter because the gear on it was sticking in the up position (not a solenoid type starter). The starter motor is still good and I still have it but I have since removed that gear, there is a difficult to remove ring that holds it on there and likely there is a special tool a starter and alternator shop might have to work with such rings because they are *not* easy to remove.
This lawn tractor has been rather trouble free other than having to replace those parts and of course, I do change spark plugs. I have changed a couple bad mower spindles too and they lasted surprisingly long. They do have Zerk fittings on them of course and I like that. What I don't like so much are supposedly "permanently lubricated" parts. That reminds me of how a lot of car manufacturers to to bull shit you into thinking you have a low maintenance vehicle by telling you (with forked toung apparently) that you never need to change transmission fluid. That has gotten so bad now that the newer cars are being advertised as having oil change intervals of 15,000 miles or more. I don't know who they think they are trying to bull shit with that because I have never, ever seen an oil I would use that long in any car or anything else for that matter.
When you mentioned it barely starts do you mean it turns over slowly then starts, turns over normally but takes a while to start, or that it hesitates before even turning over? With more detail, I could recommend a few things.
Mine was fairly maintenance free as well. I now have a Cub Cadet and other than minor maintenance that I would consider routine it has been a great tractor.
Let me know how I can help you.
Thank you great video! Turned out I had a blown fuse by the solenoid.
Jean Hakim I’m glad you were able to find the issue! That’s the easiest one to fix too!
@@TightWadDIY Yes-- I narrowed it down as to why its tripping it = when I engage the blade it trips the fuse! There must be a faulty switch somewhere... any tips on that?
Jean Hakim That indicates a short. Check the wires on the battery and solenoid first. Then you can check the starter.
Good description. I have a no-start problem, too. My voltmeter reads 12V across the battery, but the lights do not turn on. I'm going to take the battery to Interstate today to double check it. The tractor is a 25 year old Cub Cadet with a rwo-year old battery, the switches are hard to get to. The body is one piece, and I have to remove the fuel tank to get to the ignition and PTO switches. Any recommendations to find the problem without disassembling it?
Mark Hanson Does it click when you turn the key? If not, can you get to the solenoid? If so, try jumping it with an insulated handle screw driver. Also check the fuse.
Been thru all this and still haven't figured out my problem. So annoyed test good Ignition switch test good PTO switch test good blade engagement switch test good I have 12 V to the left side of cylon oi'd no power at the starter. Fuse test good starter task good I believe I have a ground issue what do you think?
my Craftsman mower 917 when you let me clutch out it dies could it be the clutch safety switch
thanks
unclewiddy You are welcome! Be sure to subscribe!
Good troubleshooting guide, thumbs up! Is there a way to (temporarily) disable or just bypass all the safety circuit to easily rule that out?
Clayton Vining I have never attempted to do this but I would imagine you could hardwire from the beginning of the yellow wire to the end of the wire to bypass everything. I wouldn't recommend this though.
Pretty Good Video...
Mark Woten I’m glad you found it helpful. I have several videos for these mowers. Be sure to subscribe.
This was very helpful but could you please do a video more in depth of the wiring going to the solenoid. I have a loose green wire that I believe going with the ground but I'm not too sure where it goes.thanks
How many posts does your solenoid have?
@@TightWadDIY it's a 4 post. Looks like the same make and model of mower as your.
After 3 days, I finally got the starter motor to engage. The problem was not enough ground (neg). The black cable from battery to the frame was dirty and corroded where it fastens to the frame. The lock washer was between the frame and cable, instead of on top of the cable end and under the nut. Woopy!
Now I get no fire to the plug. At the switch, the red/white from the battery connects to the lights, but doesn't connect to Ign when I turn the key to Ign. Connection is only from red/white wire to a red wire, no other wire. I'm not sure where the red wire goes. To Ign coil? The seat being down with my weight on it would not affect the connections inside the switch. No wires to kill switch under the seat.
Thank you for all the info's, I changed my solenoid my starter But When I turn the key I have electricity coming in, to the starter but the starter gear instead of going up to the flywheel, it goes down, can you help me? ... Thanks
On most mowers one end of the black heavy battery cable should be attached to the mower frame/chassis. The other end of the black heavy battery cable should be attached to the negative (-) terminal of the battery. Doing this results in a "normal" negative grounded system. The other heavy battery cable is usually red and one end of that cable should be attached to the positive (+) terminal of the battery. The other end of that heavy red cable should be attached to one of the heavy threaded studs (either one of the two threaded studs; it makes no difference) of the solenoid. When you have connected the battery in this manner you will have a negative ground and the current flowing through the bendix (and starter motor) will result in proper engagement of the bendix teeth with the flywheel teeth. The starter motor and motor gear should rotate in a counter clock wise rotation. This will result in the bendix driving the starter motor teeth toward, and engaging with, the flywheel teeth. The flywheel should turn in a clockwise rotation (opposite of the starter motor direction). When the battery is inserted backwards (that is, with the positive terminal being grounded to the chassis/frame), the action of the bendix and the rotation of the starter motor will be reversed causing the bendix to disengage from the teeth of the flywheel instead of engaging the flywheel teeth with the torque needed to rotate the flywheel in the proper direction to start the engine. The fix: you have simply inserted your battery "backwards". Make sure your battery 's negative terminal is attached to the ground and make sure the positive terminal is insulated from the ground. This will result in your bendix and starter motor gear's rotation being correct.
Very good video. I have a Yard Machines friend lawnmower tractor. It has this very same problem. I cannot find a fuse anywhere. I changed the solenoid and ignition switch and check on the switches you were talking about in this video and get no progress. Please help. God bless you and thank you so much for sharing this video.
The fuse should be between the battery and the solenoid. It’s hard to find the issue without looking at it myself. It could be the key switch but that’s less common.
Great video. Is the multi meter necessary on a solenoid since it has the noticeable click if it's working?
DXT61 You don’t need it for that one step.i was demonstrating that the solenoid completes the circuit when it clicks.
@@TightWadDIY Thanks.
Mine wasn't a bad parking brake switch, it had just moved so that the button wasn't getting pressed when brake pedal was down. Thanks!
Tom Owens I’m glad you were able to figure it out.