How to Simple Key Switch Test
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
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How to Test Key Switch on Ayp, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet, Murray, Trobilt, Toro, Hustler, Craftman, Kawasaki, Kohler, Honda, Briggs 
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I did research high and low to gather what you gave in one brilliant lesson. Thanks. This is a very good educational lesson on 7 terminal switches. Thank you for speaking plainly in layman's terms!
Awesome sets of videos. Has allowed me to avoid purchase of stator, voltage regulator, and key switch and track down charging issue to some faulty connections. Thanks for all the time and effort put into these step by step explanatory videos.
Thank you for sharing. My key switch was bad it was not charging my battery was not charging my mower. I changed it and it's changing like a charm. Thank you for showing me how. You are a blessing 🙏😇.
Excellent Video ! ! Thank you showing how easy it was to check out the Key switch. Trying to remove the actual switch was the hardest thing to do. Good Program
Thank you for taking the time to show this. Your explanation was really simple. The good news is my switch is good. Must be the solenoid.
Thanks my friend. It's been one problem after another this season with my two Kubota zero turns I use for work. I was just getting ready to go home and put one away and nothing. I know the batteries good so I was thinking switch and this is going to be a big help. Thanks again.
Thank you for making this video, it helps to know how to check the switch and diagnose the bad Solenoid
Keepem coming and I'll sure keep watching.
I just subscribed,,, been looking everywhere on how to test this particular switch,,, thanks for the info,,, this was a big help... 👍👍👍
Thanks you for Subscribing
2👍for you Sir! I combined this video with your voltage regulator instructional video. I have a DR mower with an electric clutch to engage blades. Come to find out, I had a multitude of issues with mine (bad voltage regulator & bad key switch). Without your help, I would have had an engine that runs but wouldn't cut grass due to the 12V required to keep blades engaged. Effectively an expensive lawn ornament. Thanks again for people like you that take personal time to make videos & share the knowledge. Subscribed, liked, & bell ringer here. VR
Yea man awesome job on this thank youuu😊 I'll finally get to use my multimeter after 6 years
Great video on the switch, also learned some settings on my volt meter !
Mr.Sartin, You are an exceptional teacher. I appreciate the detail. Im not a guy but am a granny. I have a lt2000 I could use some advice on. I’ll keep watching your vids. Ty.
Nonnie Thank you and you are Welcome
Great video for a layman like myself. Thanks.
I may also add the tutorial on this problem and it's corisponding processes is by far clearest I have seen so far I do think a Man with this talent should teach
As it was once said to me years ago good correct information is hardest to find half ass truths are everywhere a great reason nothing works anymore just saying 🤣
With people as your self will and can keep us inspired with great tutorial know how
Thank you. Explained it very well and it was a helpful video
best video on testing switch I've seen. My old switch was bad, bought a new one and mower still won't do anything, not even the lights will come on with the new switch. Battery was tested and is good, so there also must be some other electrical problem to research
Power to the switch comes from. Starter Solenoid. Follow battery positive wire to solenoid. There will be a small wire attached to the same post on solenoid that battery positive goes to. There will be a fuse in this wire also
@@sartingarage8045 Same problem, Just tested as per your instructions, my key switch on a Cub 1046. The key tests ok. Replaced the Starter Solenoid and still no power when I turn on the key. I checked the fuse. It's good. The red wire coming out of the end of the fuse had broken off. I reattached the wire to the positive red battery cable. Still nothing. Is there a second fuse up behind the steering wheel I'm missing?
@Lorin Kenfield On the connector to switch
Check the B terminal for battery voltage
Test your battery Ground
Meter on Ohms One lead on Battery Negative
Other lead touch to engine block and other metal to make sure ground is OK
If you don't have ground there will be No voltage
Thanks..appreciate the effort. Very Helpful.
I have one of them older switches. I just bought it new this morning. I've also replaced the solenoid as well. I checked all the grounds and still nothing. I can get the solenoid the click only with direct power. My issue also is the fuse holder. when I put the connector on the left solenoid it blew the fuse. When I change it back, I get nothing. I wish this opposed twin would fit in one of my good frames just to see if the starter will engage. I was able to follow your video though and seems that this switch is good. I have that voltage gage on this 6 prong switch.
If you getting same reading from battery wire on voltage regulator to frame with keyy off and key on. Im checking 12.6 with key off and when i thurn key on its the same.
Great job very well done
Got to say I was hunting the world over to find something explained as you have in this video
I have the same style switch on my arians garden tractor although I do have a question or a few
Instead of the key switch I would like to put toggle switches would like to plug them to the existing terminals on the same wire harness with out all the cutting and spliseing I have see guys who race mowers do something like I want to do I am so glad to have found this video in it's purest knowledge of this procedure
you think the methods described still applies to this wanted options I have tried to explain
Now as I may not have said anything that makes sense but wise people are few these days I do hope to hear from you on this topic
Thank you in advance
You can do the Toggle switches
The Toggle Switch will go to the same terminals in this video
So say for lights would be B to L
Toggle Switch in line
B on one terminal L on the other
I have a older key switch from a 1983 782 Cub Cadet with 5 pins, only 4 of the terminals are marked ,A-S-M-G I assume the unmarked terminal is B ?
I am not sure what original motor was in my Cub Cadet but I am putting in a Kohler CH20S with Magneto ignition and have read I have to do something to prevent burning up the coil but not sure what I need either maybe a diode?
Thank You,
Thank you so so much for this video. I hope this works on our key switch. Much appreciated!
I have a Craftsman riding mower and I’m having some issues. It will start when it’s cold or has been sitting. If I turn it off and try to restart it, it won’t do anything. Any suggestions of what it might be?
Excellent video. Although my switch tested fine🙄 Thank you for sharing your knowledge😊
very good and understandable , thank you
the craftsman manual shows that switch with all the pins labeled go thru to pages 35 +
Thank you very much for your fantastic video. I've got a 21 year old 42" yard machine riding mower model 13AP608G129 that I've been working to keep running these few years.
Thank you very much for your fantastic video. I've got a 21 year old 42" yard machine riding mower model 13AP608G129 that I've been working to keep running these few years.
Should there be any continuity between the G and A1 when switch is in off position?
@amberafarin8249
I'm pretty sure that is a No
You shouldn't have any connection on A1 to Ground
Should only be A1 to B
Thank you
Lawn mower is running good but when you engage the blades the lawn mower cuts off what can be the problem
i have a cub cadet rzt50 kawasaki 22 hp engine year 2009. i love your videos.
with my ignition switch off i am getting battery voltage to the voltage regulator, is this ok?
I'm gonna say No
That would drain the battery down
I think your key Switch is shorted
Unplug connector from key Switch
Check Voltage at Regulator
If there is NO Voltage
Replace Key Switch
Great video, there's a few times you said resistance when I believe you meant continuity. Thumbs up and I subscribed :-)
Yes
Thank you for subscribing
Thanks for the video - very informative . You might find this interesting. I had a problem with my Craftsman mower with a Kohler Command 17.5 hp engine ( a very good engine) The mower started to get hard to start and after you ran it for a little while and shut it off it would not start unless i sprayed starting fluid into the carb . I believe this started when i discovered mice made a nest under the engine cover. I replaced the spark plug, double checked the ignition coil gap, installed new carb., new fuel line and filter and finally new head gasket. Did not help. Not sure why, out of ideas i guess but i watched your video . I performed your test very carefully and did it twice, it shows the switch is ok . My brother who is a pretty fair mechanic insisted i try to hot wire the switch - i did that and bingo the engine starts just fine, and then it also starts after you run it for awhile just like it should . Installed new switch ( 7 pin sw. ) and problem appears to be solved. This is the second replacement switch in ten yrs - i would think that is abnormal but with the very poor quality of parts now maybe not. If you actually see this after all this time - thanks again, you got me pointed in the right direction.
Glad you got it figured out
Stu Estrade
0 seconds ago
I have a Snapper RER Mower 7800920-00 with a 17 hp B&S Intek engine 31C707 603 E1
What non-Snapper product is available for an ignition coil, solenoid, starter, and spark plug is applicable to my mower and engine? Snapper parts are pricey! Thanks
Great video. My switch looks just like that one but it doesn't have the L terminal. It has G A1 A2 B M S. Which one would be for the lights? When checking the charging is it A1 or A2 and B? Thanks.
Will be connected to A1 or A2
Most likely lights stay on all the time while engine is running
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it. I’m looking to add a led light bar to an Ariens. Currently the tractor has no lights. It has a similar switch as you have in this video. I want to utilize the light position on the switch. Can I use the L and A2 terminals? By the looks of the video I’m sure I can and not mount an additional switch. Also I’m assuming that if during the daytime the lights would be off if the switch is no on the light icon. Thanks
Watch my Boss Stereo install on Husqvarna
I also added LED lights to it and the video shows you where to connect lights to use key switch.
There are 3 parts to video
Sartin Garage thanks I’ll check it out.
I have a old toro 3650 snowblower,r tek,how do i test the switch before replacement if the coil
For the ignition coil circuit on the key switch is terminal M and terminal G on back of switch. Key off should be continuity and Key on should be No reading.
Hello there I have a switch that rings the meter when it in the off position and I get nothing through the coil which everything is new my question is the switch is going to ground? That’s what I think
This new switch is on a1973 hodaka 125 wombat
Any ideas will be great thanks
Ty
Ignition Coils are made 2 different ways.
Open or Closed
Open being ungrounded to spark
Closed being Grounded to spark
Most are Open Coils
If yours is Open Coil
Key Switch should be grounded /Buzzing on meter with key in OFF position.
This Grounds the coil out and turns engine off. Kills the spark
Once key is turned on there should be No Ground or buzzing on meter
Which opens the circuit for coil to fire
If it's Closed to spark
Key switch will be the opposite
Just seen this is a motorcycle.
Ignition doesn't work exactly the same
These Ignition Coils are usually ran with voltage and they depend on a reference of when to fire based on a trigger from usually points and condenser or other component to tell ignition coil the piston is at top dead center. If the reference is not there , Ignition Coil will not fire because it doesn't know when to fire, it's not receiving the signal.
I hope this helps
Excellent teaching! Checked out my LTX 1046 Cub C ignition switch it tested all good. Thanks. I've replaced the starter solenoid switch. While doing the replacement , I noticed the fuse, which was good, had the red wire on one side was hanging free. I reconnected it to the larger red wire coming of the solenoid. Still I have a tractor that does nothing when I turn the key. Is there another fuse behind the steering wheel close to the ignition switch? Any suggestions? Also, do you have another video that would address this problem? Just subscribed . Thanks again, great job!
The little red wire you reattached
Make sure you attached it to the solenoid post that the battery cable goes to the battery
One side of solenoid post goes to starter
Other side goes to battery
If you connected it to starter side
There will be no voltage
If you’ve narrowed down everything before the switch for the charging system and the charging terminal check fails would the mower would still start? Assuming you have manually charged the battery to full with a charger.
So B terminal on key switch has 12 volt DC to switch, but nothing to voltage regulator DC wire.
Most likely will be bad key Switch
Could be broken wire, but usually unlikely
Awesome video man 👌
Can you give me a diagram for that ignition letters to where i connect them to the riding mower
A1 will go to Voltage Regulator
Depending on your Engine Brand will determine what connector it connects to on voltage regulator.
B = Battery
Which goes to Starter Solenoid
Connects to same post Battery positive Cable is connected to on Starter Solenoid.
L = Lights
Goes to one terminal on headlight
Then second terminal on same headlight
Jumper wire over to second headlight
Last terminal on second headlight goes to ground.
M = Magneto / Ignition Coil
Subed your videos helped me out .. least I can do thanks. Thought I had a had stator ...
Hello, I've been asking you for help on that 74170 toro. You want believe what I fount today. I'd downloaded the Maual and I'd forgotten about it. But I found the wiring schematics of that mower. It shows everything I need to see. Thank you for your help. And I may need help later. But I just wanted to thank you for everything. THANKS, Carlton Croom. If there's anything I can do for you, just let me know!!!!!!
I have a starter switch that has R B S A and the 5th pin doesn’t have any letter next to it I’m trying to fine the Magnito and ground
Use a multimeter
Disconnect Ground on Battery
Meter on ohms preferable with buzzer
One lead in the connection to Magneto
Then use the other lead to probe connector to key switch.
Once you find that connection in connector
Match that connection to switch
I can’t get fire from the wire that comes from the switch to the voltage regulator when the key is turned on, stater, regulator, and switch all test good,but when I pull the pto switch on it kills the motor?!
Test Key Switch
Key Switch has battery voltage to it
When Key is turned on connects inside Switch to wire that goes to voltage regulator
Do you have a video on how to remove and rebuild a head on the Kawasaki FH580V? Get one thing fixed and have another problem. The mower is about 18 years old and have not had any trouble out of it. I did see a mouse run out from under it so there could be a nest on top of the cylinder causing it to run hot. Bent both valves about just alike. Thanks for any help and keep up the videos, they are very informational. Thanks again
Michael
I do not have a video on rebuilding the cylinder head. Sorry
Pull the top shroud off and clean out from under it. Your flywheel helps keep the engine cool. So if a mouse has built a nest under there. The air can't circulate.
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks and keep the videos coming!!!
I am getting a beep on M and S with the key in the off position. Is it possible the switch is shorting? In fact, with the key off, I jiggled the wires and the starter engaged and tried to crank the motor. Wierd! No other connections are getting a beep. I assume it is time for a new switch.
I would say that switch is faulty
My switch has a icon of tractor backing up instead of lights icon. Should the test be the same?
I'm pretty sure its the same. I don't have one on hand to refresh my memory to test.
Thanks. I think my switch is good. What about the wires going into it?
Follow what the terminals are on the switch.
B = Battery which actually goes to Solenoid on Battery Post Side of Solenoid.
L= Lights
And so On
It is 9:18 here, I have the letters, b,m,s,y,a,and g on my the back of my ignition switch on my gravely zt 1740. There are actually 7 terminal on the back, b,m,s,y,a,g and it's either an I, or L I'm not sure ?
@thomasfrazier969
B= Battery
M= Magneto / Ignition Coil
S= Starter Solenoid
Y= Will most likely be an accessory
A= Armature/ Charging System
G= Ground
That I should be an L
L= Lights
You can Verify this with a Multimeter
Disconnect Battery
Put meter on Ohms
Match the terminal on key switch to wire you want to test.
Let's say your testing lights
Match the L to the terminal on connector
Put your Red Lead in that L terminal on connector
Then take the other lead and go to headlight
Unplug and put the other lead in the connector on Non light side.
This will help you figure out what Y actually goes to
Enjoyed the video, tried testing my switch as you did, I could not get anything when touching B and S and turned to start but nothing happened, parked the mower after mowing and was going to move it but nothing no click, no start. I saw the fuse was blown so I unhooked the clutch, wires to the engine, everything else I could find to unhook but still as soon as I turn on the key it blows the fuse, could this be a short in the switch, lights haven't worked in a while. Don't know where else to check. It will spin the motor if I jump the relay. Thanks
First if your not getting anything between B and S terminal on switch. The Switch is defective. B is battery and S goes to starter solenoid. Which is why it wont do Nothing in Start Position. I would replace the switch First.
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks ordered one see what happens. Appreciate the reply.
@@theeagle4540 i have the same problem, does new switch fix your problem? Thanks
You need to test your switch as in this video
If your not getting anything between B & S Terminal with Key in start position.
Then yes you need a new key switch also
I have 2 questions. 1. You say that when I connect A2 to B I should hear a beep. If I don't does that mean the switch is bad? I tested a brand new one and when I connect A2 to B it doesn't beep either.
2. When testing the ignition coil with a multimeter, when the key is off it doesn't beep. That does mean the new ignition switch is bad?
@moyote53
Should be A1 to B
I will have to check that in Video if I have misspoke
Yes on the M to G
If Doesn't beep with key off Switch is bad
I just found ur channel. I wonder if u could maybe do a video on basic to moderately complex electrical systems like on a mower. I kinda know how it works but need a lot more training like how does a ground work. How do they wire all the safety switches with everything else and it works. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
William I do have some videos on Ground
But I will most definitely make some more on this information. I work a full time job 12 hour shift 5 6 and sometimes 7 days a week. So it may be a bit before I can create one.
@@sartingarage8045 ok I sure do appreciate what you've done and will do in the future. Thanks very much. What's your first name
Chris
My husqvarna 48" riding tractor keeps going thru key switches! And it seems to be getting worse I used to replace it once a year now with the mowing season only half over again key switch is shot! It cranks but wont fire! I cant seem to figure out why it keeps happening. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you love the channel
I think you have other issues, Carburetor problems, ignition Coil Problems,
Possibly more major problems that are unlikely, but possible
Low compression, Valve adjustment
@@sartingarage8045 tonight I replace the key switch again it fires right up runs great is it possible the voltage regulator is putting out too much voltage and frying the switch? No continuity between A1 and B also the A1 terminal is a different color than the other terminals. Please let me know your thoughts the carb is new due to ethanol fuel also replaced the head gaskets when I was at it the mower has lots of power and runs great
I would definitely test the voltage while engine is running. Should Not be over 15 volts DC. Most common about 13 to 14.5 volts DC.
Also make sure your using the correct key for that switch. Wrong key can damage the connections inside the switch
ive got a 48 volt battery golf cart switch that reads continuity in the on position with no power and 48 volts in the off position. im thinking the switch is working fine ive just got a totally disconnected ground somewhere. because the lights and everything else works not effected by the starter. can you chime in any suggestions? thanks bud. ive been chasing gremlins in this thing for 6 months now. funny thing is, all the years i worked i never sat back and dreamed of spending 8 hours a day working on projects in my garage that frustrate the heck out of me. lol. great video by the way.
If Im understanding you correctly
Switch is working
I'm thinking there is 48 volts to one terminal on switch.
When you turn Switch ON , Connects and sends the voltage thru Switch to Second terminal out to whatever it powers.
Also on my toro 74170 how many prongs does it suppose to have to key switch. . I have a five prong plug. My two coils, the wire is not put in. Someone changed key switch and it want cut off by switch anymore..
1-543070 is the Toro original Key switch Part number, Maybe wrong switch was installed.
M terminal on key switch will go straight to ignition Coil Kill Wire.
M terminal connects to G terminal when switch is in off position and kills engine. G is ground
@@sartingarage8045 thanks for help. Appreciate it.
This same B&S engine now has no fire. Because of changing from kawasaki to B&S , the wire colors don't match. I have mess with this thing. It'll have fire and then it don't. I don't know. Can you help me out. Thanks
Find the color of wire to ignition Coil or Coils.
Connect that wire to the M terminal on key Switch.
So if the wire to ignition Coil is Black
Wire on M terminal on key switch is Green
Connect black wire to the green wire
I hope that makes since
Ok thanks. I'll try it. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks
What is a 24hp B&S suppose to charge at ? Thanks
B&S have several different charging systems
If the engine has voltage regulator then the charging system works the same as kohler or kawasaki. The wires will just be connected different on the regulator.
Test AC from two wires coming out from shroud to voltage regulator. Then Single wire for DC voltage.
Thank you for this video. You explained clearly what the switch does. I am still confused in one area, so I apologize if I sound stupid with my questions, but how do you know which two to put the multimeter probes to? For example, I know M & G go together but what about the rest? I have a 7 terminal switch I'd like to test but don't know to which two do I connect the meter probes to or if I turn the key on or off when checking for continuity.
B= Battery
M= Magneto / Ignition Coil
G = Ground
Y = Accessory or Sometime Headlights
A1 and A2 are Accessory
If I remember correctly A1 goes to charging/ voltage regulator
Hello,
How are you? Thanks so much for making this video. I have a Snapper Pro Zero Turn Mower. I shipped my wire harness to a guy in Oklahoma for repair. Upon return, the guy in Oklahoma put a note in the box stating that, "Will have to add 1 Red (+Positive) and 1 Green (- Negative) wire to the battery. Diagram does not show how long". How do I go about adding them to the battery? Do I need to run it from somewhere else and hook it to the battery? He didn't give me specific details. Every time I call to try and get in touch with him, his line is always busy. I'm hoping you can help me out.
Thank you!
Not real sure what he is meaning.
But my thoughts are the Red wire would be actually from Battery post side of Starter Solenoid to the B terminal on key switch.
The Green wire which he is saying to go to battery I would think should be black as it is ground. Which should also go to key switch to G terminal on key switch.
Maybe look in the key switch connector for which wires are missing.
The key Switch terminals have letters on them to determine what connects.
Match that to the connector side and trace that wire
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks for responding so quickly. I'm waiting on some Safety Switch sensors to arrive to see if that is the issue. If not, I will defintely be hitting you back up for your input if you don't mind. I really appreciate you doing this video because you were very detailed and I received so much knowledge from your video unlike other videos I watched on here. Could you please do a video on how to run/install a wire harness on a Zero Turn? I haven't saw a video on that. That's if you ever have the time.
Take Care!
Thanks again!
I'm assuming you have the repaired wiring harness installed.
What is the mower not doing
Will engine not turn over or ?
The Visio was very helpful if you would use a pointer it would be awesome for with your finger we can’t see exactly what we need to see we have to guess at it.
Great Idea ! Thanks
I have an old metal ignition switch that will start the tractor but will not turn it off. I have to cholk the engine to turn it off. Is this a magneto or ignition switch problem?
Test the switch
M terminal to G terminal
M = Magneto / ignition Coil
G = Ground
If switch test ok
Check Ground on G terminal but connector side to Actual Ground.
Also Ground wire to ignition coil could be broken or disconnected.
Thanks so much. I really appreciate the help. Great video, I will keep in contact.
I brought a husqvarna ignition unit with 7 terminals but the plug connector has only 5 to fit in the middle leaving A1 and G terminals expose. When I start the tractor, I also have to turn on the light switch that I assumed are the missing wiring for A1 and G. So when the light switch is off, then that wire must be for A1 and when the light switch is on, then the other wire must be for G(the ground) Is that correct?
Did someone change the factory connector from a 7 to a 5 terminal. Or is the 5 pin factory ? I think you may have e the wrong switch. Make sure you look the switch up by your model number
@@sartingarage8045 Yes, for a Husqvarna YTH2042 it suppose to have that ignition with the 7 terminals just like the sticker between the foot rest. Most of the wiring was already rigged before I brought the tractor. I'm not sure about paying over 80 dollars for a correct wiring harness including the plug for the hour meter because I'm not that the solenoid was bypassed in order for the motor to run.
It may be worth the $80 to overcome the trouble your having. Will be hard to explain how to wire the tractor.
What is the "Y" terminal used for?
I am not 100% sure about this, But I believe the Y is for the headlights. I believe the Y actually means the connection splits two ways from the stator or voltage regulator.
One to the headlights other to charge battery.
One way to find out for sure is to follow the wire that connects to the terminal Y and see where the wire goes
My Quest has only 5 terminals and none are identified? How do I figure out? Thanks for great info
@joevonderheide
If you have a metal type key Switch
The letters are stamped in the terminal
May have to clean them to see the letters
My switch is plastic. W/ stop, run and start. On the back side are 5 terminals. On the side housing …PA66-GF33 and INDAK. ExMark Quest 50”.
@joevonderheide4356
Can you get me model # off of it
Usually under seat or around the back near engine
I'm thinking your switch is the one in this link
The Second Picture shows the letters of the terminals.
amzn.to/3yw3YqG
Hello I have a 7 prong metal ignition switch for a craftsman 12.5 hp lawn tractor.
The letters are A Y G M L B S.
the lights don't work but I have continuity from A to L.
I was wondering what Y does.
It's a 3 position switch, on the console
How do I send a picture.
PAT. No.
3497644
Others pend
What would cause my starter not to disengage? I just did this test and the switch is good.
When you say engaged
Starter stays spinning the engine
Or starter Gear just stays up
If engine keeps turning over
Replace starter solenoid
If the gear just stays up
This sometimes will happen if engine doesnt start.
But if the gear stays up while engine is running.
I would replace abbendix kit
When I try to start it, the gear goes up and stays engaged with the fly wheel. Im don't even get a full revolution.
Hi, my switch has following letters: B, L, M, S, Y, G, A. Would appreciate it if you could tell me how my letters correspond to your letters. Thanks.
B= battery +
M= magneto/ ignition Coil
S= starter Solenoid
G= Ground
Y , A and L can get confusing
L= usually Lights
But sometimes will use L for something else like Anti Backfire Solenoid on bottom of Carb.
And use Y for Lights
Also can be vise Versa
A= Accessory or sometimes Amperage Meter.
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks Much!!!!
I have a 3y/o Cub Cadet XT1 with the Kohler SV540 engine. I've had a slight charging issue since new where after weeks or months the battery will get weak, hard start then eventually the clicking. Originally I thought maybe someone left the lights on or just a bad OE battery. Fast forward to the next mowing season (last year), I put a new Interstate 375CCA battery in it. Made it to fall and the issue happened again. Now to today, battery tested good, stator output tested good and the voltage regulator to battery tested good. But one thing I noticed was the voltage regulator battery wire/terminal tested identical volts as the battery regardless if the ignition switch was in the on or off position. With this switch having the reverse safety and all that on it should it be showing 0 at the voltage regulator while in the off position? Thanks!
Should be No Voltage with Key off
Remove key Switch and test it
I will do a video really soon on How to Test for Voltage Draw on Battery with Key off very soon. It is one of the coolest Tricks for this very problem.
This video will help you easily figure it out if its Not Key Switch. But usually the power to that charging wire comes from the key switch. And the key switch is at fault
Sartin Garage do you have any advice on getting the switch out? I started working on pulling the dash and gas tank but it got dark. Do these need to be removed or is there a way to get it out of the dash without disassembly? TY
@@nhoffman1987 Some Key switches are easily removed. Some are not so easy.
If it is the plastic switch. There is a tab on the top and bottom of switch. Push down the tab and push the switch out toward the front of dash. Same for other tab being careful not to latch the other tab back.
Getting to the Key Switch is different on every mower made. So without seeing your setup. Would be hard to explain
@@nhoffman1987 I just looked up pictures of your exact mower. Looks like that one the gas tank is completely blocking any access to the key switch. I have to say I have never repaired a Xt1. I cant tell you how it comes apart. Sorry
@@sartingarage8045 I got the switch out for testing. With the key in the off position I was getting readings at M & G, M & A1, and G & A1. Do any of these indicate the switch is the source of my issue? Thanks again.
A2 connect to which part of the mower?
A1 or A2 = A is meaning Accessory
Usually A1 is Charging
A2 is used for different things depending on your mower.
Just follow the wire that is connected to A2 on switch
Follow where it goes from Key switch
Great and thanks for your help. Will subscribe more for your channels
My Ferris keeps blowing charging system fuse when i turn the key on.
@michaelholt4925
Most of the time this will be a short in wiring to ground or defective key switch. This Video doesn't show how to test key switch for a short. But basically you test the same way as in this video, but say when your checking your charging side of key switch, rather than just check A1 to B terminals. You want to check all the terminals. Connect one lead to A1 and the other to all other terminals on switch, You should only have continuity thru A1 and B, So if you do this and you have continuity between A1 , B and G. That switch is shorted to ground.
And also your wiring and connections may be different. and to figure this out
Disconnect Battery
Remove output wire from Voltage Regulator
Put one lead of meter in this wire
And at the key switch use the other lead to find which terminal your connects to on key switch.
Another short test to
Disconnect Battery
Connect one lead to single wire on voltage regulator
Other lead to ground
Turn key on
If meter beeps then you have short to ground.
Make sure Battery is disconnected or you will damage your meter.
@@sartingarage8045 Thanks
Can you show me other side the colors
I can , But depending on your manufacturer of Mower, They will use different color wires.
So may not help you
Best thing to do is take a continuity test
Pull wire off of component say voltage regulator put one lead in that end
Then put other lead in each terminal of key switch connector. Meter on Ohms or Buzzer works better.
Disconnect battery before starting this test.
Research led me here🙏 fresh battery won't even turn over I'm thinking it the ignition switch
Engine won't turn over could be a number of things, Key Switch, Brake Switch, Blade Engage Switch, Starter Solenoid, to name a few. I would test key switch first
Then a easy test to see if starter Solenoid is possibly bad. There will be either one small wire or two small wires on bottom of starter Solenoid. With key in start position should be battery voltage to the one wire or on one of the two wires if your solenoid has two.
Also make sure your grounded good.
There is a video for testing ground connections on my channel.
@@sartingarage8045 it ran last year it was cover with tarp!!. I tested switch but my multimeter is cheap and doesn't beep like yours it would flash couple high numbers then go right back to 1 on the screen... nothing has been tampered with just wonder if condensation is a factor also in those parts you mentioned failing(solenoid and ig switch etc)
I would invest in a bit better meter at least one with a beeper.
@@sartingarage8045 🙏 thank you master for your wisdom..
you stated A-1 to B for charging then you stated A-2 to B for charging. Whats up?
M Dunbar On this paticular Switch
A1 to B is the connection for Charging
👍👍👍👍👍
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
I check my switch with you my is not cutting off went I turn my off
Mines a cheap all metal brand the only plastic one I have is on the John deere
There will still be letters on the back of switch, Sometimes on the terminal themselves or on the switch at bottom of each terminal.
@@sartingarage8045 there is. I have a big battery charger I could test it with and other mowers I could test it on if the wire plug in was the same
Lowes sells the switch I'm needing. i haven't bought it yet because i been looking over the wiring i was trying to see how did the blue and red melt a little so those 2 are melted into the black wiring plastic what you plug into the switch
@@sartingarage8045 the switch might be good then it might not it is old and full of rust the guy we bought the mower from always kept it parked outside
You can test the metal switch with a Multimeter. Put meter on Ohms.
Depending on which switch you have
You will test terminals
B to S with key in start position
M to G with key off
L to B with key on or in Light position
Depending on what your problem is
May need to do other test to switch
Yeah that's Not Good
If it's rusted up I would probably just replace it to prevent future problems
*Built well, **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend plugged right into my rider 4500 series. Was short the rubber cap key and was was sent right out in the mail. Just ordered another ignition switch for my 6500 rider.*
At 7:17 you say “connect to A2” ... I think you meant to say “A1”. Thanks for the great video though!
I did. Sorry
Will someone PLEASE show a video on How to remove a key switch??!! (for us "gals"
Paulette Pier What Mower do you have
I will try to make a video this week on How to remove key Switch.
If it is this same switch that is in the video. On the back side of switch there are 2 Tabs exactly straight across from each other. Another words if you had the switch in your hand there will be a tab on right side and the left.
Push one tab in as you push up on switch at the same time. Switch will come up just about eighth of an inch.
Then do other side tab being careful not to latch the side you just got loose to latch back
@@sartingarage8045 It's an older model of Troy Built Bronco the brake & accel are on on the same side..
If it is the same switch in this test video
There are two Tabs on the switch
Lift hood and reach under dash and on the top and bottom there is a tab
Push the tab down with a screwdriver while pushing out on the switch
The switch comes out the front of dash
The tabs are on the back of dash
Paulette Pier if it is an older tractor it may have the old style switch
If its plastic it is described in previous comment I sent to remove it
If it is a Metal or aluminum key switch it will have a Nut on top. Just remove the nut and Switch will come out from back side of dash.
NOTE: Sometimes this Nut is covered by a rubber cap. The key goes thru this rubber Cap. Pry the rubber cap off with a screwdriver. You will then see the Nut
hello how are you
Im good
How are you
Sartin Garage I am trying to install a new key switch not going so well ! Any advice .. don’t I just plug in the new one
@@ChillaKaya Yes as long as its the correct Key Switch
Look up your make and Model number of your equipment. There will be a part number for your exact key switch
You then will be able to unplug old one
Then just connect new one
@@ChillaKaya If you would like Give me your Make and Model Number and I will look key switch up for you and send you a part number
@@sartingarage8045 ok so model number is 937748
I don't have no meter
I put a gun too my head during this presentation.....
for meter's ,,,fluke ,,,for Knockout Punch's klein and greenlee ,,,,not meter's please,,,
So do I need to name every brand of multimeter they make.
Fluke, Craftsman, Klein, Ames, Performance Tool, GB, Can-Tech , Brymon, Greenlee, just to name a few.
Not everyone even knows what a fluke is
There all multimeters with a different brand. Doesnt matter what brand you use as long as its decently accurate and has AC & DC capabillity.
Just trying to understand where your coming from
Thank you