I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
*Built well, **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend plugged right into my rider 4500 series. Was short the rubber cap key and was was sent right out in the mail. Just ordered another ignition switch for my 6500 rider.*
On a Mercury 6 wire ignition switch, the black w/yellow has 3 leads. 4 wire splice.1 from mag, 1 from Kill switch, 1 to Tach, 1 to switch. Also the purple has a 3 wire splice. 1 from low oil buzzer( warning buzzer) .1 from switch.1 from accessories. The factory switch on comes with 2 purple and 2 ground jumpers. So others must be added. I used waterproof splice shrink tubes.
@@jrac863 is it an original switch? If it’s a new one, not all 5 pin switches are made in the same configuration. The harness will still fit, but the pins are in a different order. You could still use the switch, you’d just need to change the wire order.
This would be similar for a vehicle starter switch right? The posts/terminals are different in mine, they're sodered, but still very similar. I got continuity in everything except the starter (ST) terminal. Hopefully this is my issue, thanks for this video.
WARNING NOT KNOWN to many, Even though a replacement switch MAY FIT THE FACTORY PLUG the switch may actually BURN UP your wiring when activated OR the mower won't start OR you blow something else. NOTE: The Labels ON the PRONGS of your ORIGINAL FACTORY switch MUST MATCH the labels on the replacement switch, I personally screwed up a wiring harness thinking I could just switch out a key switch BECAUSE IT WOULD FIT the factory plug
You will need to consult your machine’s wiring diagram. It may just bond straight to the chassis, or it might be connected else where into the ground circuit.
No not when testing it doesn’t have to be grounded, if you’re talking about after it’s installed it grounds itself by the body of the mower where it’s mounted.
I’ve always just took the black contact and put it against the body of the ignition switch, then take your red contact and touch each prong individually, there should be no continuity in any of them except for the ground, If there is the switch is bad.
I view starter and solenoid as two terms for basically the same thing (often called a starter solenoid) but saying S stands for solenoid would probably have been slightly more correct.
Mine grounds the engine when the switch touches metal. It is a brand new switch. It’s like it is defected from the factory. If I pull the switch away from the metal control box, it works fine. Maybe the inside of the metal casing isn’t insulated right? It’s been aggravating because I spent a long time diagnosing other things thinking that there is no way it was a new switches issue. I even bought it straight from scag thinking I was doing the right thing.
ALL 5 prong switches are NOT stamped the same per prong, make sure you get a switch that the prongs are the same identification as your original, MANY THINK as long as the replacement switch will FIT THE PLUG then it is ok, NOPE, you may fry your wiring harness. Been there done that !
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
Very concise, easy to understand, to the point. Thank you so much!!! Helped me fix some wiring on my Huster...you should be an educator!!
Glad it helped!
Good lord 2:30 is when he finally explains what you’re looking for🤦♂️
Thanks for watching!
Very informative, but took ages getting there.
Thanks for the education Sir. Now I know !!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks!
*Built well, **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend plugged right into my rider 4500 series. Was short the rubber cap key and was was sent right out in the mail. Just ordered another ignition switch for my 6500 rider.*
On a Mercury 6 wire ignition switch, the black w/yellow has 3 leads. 4 wire splice.1 from mag, 1 from Kill switch, 1 to Tach, 1 to switch. Also the purple has a 3 wire splice. 1 from low oil buzzer( warning buzzer) .1 from switch.1 from accessories. The factory switch on comes with 2 purple and 2 ground jumpers. So others must be added. I used waterproof splice shrink tubes.
We have have a problem with our switch at the second position the starter wants to spin does this sound like a faulty switch to you
Possibly. Or your wires are possibly flipped.
It's a five pin harness so it only plugs in one way. That why I'm thinking switch
@@jrac863 is it an original switch? If it’s a new one, not all 5 pin switches are made in the same configuration. The harness will still fit, but the pins are in a different order. You could still use the switch, you’d just need to change the wire order.
This would be similar for a vehicle starter switch right? The posts/terminals are different in mine, they're sodered, but still very similar. I got continuity in everything except the starter (ST) terminal. Hopefully this is my issue, thanks for this video.
Very helpful thank you very much!
Thanx very educational🖒🖒
Thanks for watching!
Which color wire connects to which pin? I have red, blue, green, brown and white
You'll need to find a wiring diagram for your specific model of mower. It should be in your service manual.
I didn't know you can do this thank you for sharing this knowledge is very valuable everyone should do this
Are the terminal numbers universal,IE just place wire on #1 to terminal #1 on new switch and so on .
The lettering designations are standardized. There are number designations that are standardized too, though they're usually two digit numbers.
WARNING NOT KNOWN to many, Even though a replacement switch MAY FIT THE FACTORY PLUG the switch may actually BURN UP your wiring when activated OR the mower won't start OR you blow something else. NOTE: The Labels ON the PRONGS of your ORIGINAL FACTORY switch MUST MATCH the labels on the replacement switch, I personally screwed up a wiring harness thinking I could just switch out a key switch BECAUSE IT WOULD FIT the factory plug
My meter doesn’t have the buzzer can you make a video showing what settings you have on the meter?
I'm uploading a video right now. Should be available shortly.
Would have been nice to see your multimeter to see what you were doing and what position you were using
I have a video linked in the description of this one that goes into more detail.
Dose the ground terminal on the Ignition switch need to be grounded to something and if so where to
You will need to consult your machine’s wiring diagram. It may just bond straight to the chassis, or it might be connected else where into the ground circuit.
No not when testing it doesn’t have to be grounded, if you’re talking about after it’s installed it grounds itself by the body of the mower where it’s mounted.
I’ve always just took the black contact and put it against the body of the ignition switch, then take your red contact and touch each prong individually, there should be no continuity in any of them except for the ground, If there is the switch is bad.
I was told S stands for solenoid not starter ?
I view starter and solenoid as two terms for basically the same thing (often called a starter solenoid) but saying S stands for solenoid would probably have been slightly more correct.
Mine grounds the engine when the switch touches metal. It is a brand new switch. It’s like it is defected from the factory. If I pull the switch away from the metal control box, it works fine. Maybe the inside of the metal casing isn’t insulated right? It’s been aggravating because I spent a long time diagnosing other things thinking that there is no way it was a new switches issue. I even bought it straight from scag thinking I was doing the right thing.
How to hook up a key switch if the two-prong key switch
I’m gonna guess one goes to 12v, and the other to your starter solenoid.
What color of wire each of M, ACC, IG?
I tested mine but mine has a sixth prong. It's off of a John Deere 116. I didnt get any continuity on any of them.lol guess I'll just buy another one.
ALL 5 prong switches are NOT stamped the same per prong, make sure you get a switch that the prongs are the same identification as your original, MANY THINK as long as the replacement switch will FIT THE PLUG then it is ok, NOPE, you may fry your wiring harness. Been there done that !
Great!
You don't ever show how to set the meter?
I’m just using the “continuity” feature of my meter. You can also use the resistance/ohms function to read open vs a resistance value as well.
That's almost " too " simple .