Best explanation I've seen on safety switches. Some prevent your engine from starting - others stop your engine from running. Helps simplify the troubleshooting.
You are the man! I’ve been doing this for 15 years and you taught me something today. I’ve been working on a rear discharge Husqvarna lawn tractor (CTH2138R) and trying to figure out why the PTO shuts off when I pull the switch. Normally it’s a brake switch, seat switch, bad PTO switch, bad ground, etc. Everything tested fine. When the customer dropped it off he didn’t have the rear bagger attached. I’ve been racking my brain and was going to print the wiring schematic out tonight. I see that sneaky safety switch hiding on the rear after you mentioned something about a chute safety switch. 99% of what I see are side discharge or mulching. Makes sense. Can’t thank you enough! You da man. Subscribed!!
Great video! I was looking all over to verify that completing the ground is what kills the engine. Thanks for sharing the wiring diagrams with explanation!
Great video and circuit description. Thank you for producing and sharing. Just got done fixing up an old PowerPro 38" 12HP riding lawn mower who's previous owner (my nephew a mechanic and who recently passed away) had disabled all safety switches and was allowing his wife and 13 year old daughter to operate the mower. The grand niece was using the mower, went into reverse hitting a fence post, freaked out and jumped off the mower which kept running with blades turning at full throttle...not good! I now have all the switches repaired and feel a lot better about my niece and grand niece using the mower to be safer when mowing their lawn. I also created some simple instructions/reminders using a label maker on PTO, brake/clutch pedal, seat, and park/speed, FWD/REV lever positions needed to start or prevent the engine from dying.
This is the best video I have found explaining the whole safety system. I knew some switches grounded the magneto, but i didn't understand the positive side of things. Thank you for such a thorough explanation. Now I can go to my Cub Cadet LTX 1146 and hopefully find out why it just died while driving. I replaced burned fuse, and starter briefly engages. I expect a ground issue somewhere.
Very well laid out video sir. though to myself the functions of the switches is ( common sense ) your video is very well thought out and it shows. Bravo
Thank you this is a great video, we're dealing with a 05 white with a Tecumseh 18.5HP. Basically we changed the blade belt, and now once the engine is running, PTO off, as soon as you touch the PTO lever, The engine shuts down. Day before all good. PTO switch seems to check out, one side NO, the other NC, now to check brake switch.
Hope you figure it out. Can't help but think something happened while changing the deck belt that caused this. Otherwise, it's an awfully strange coincidence.... Good luck.
Hey, never mind, I read one of the other replies and sure enough it was the seat switch...played with it a few mins , unplugged and re-plugged it and it and it was fine.. Thanks
Great video......One thing I believe would help avoid confusion for someone who's not real familiar with wiring diagrams, is to just say "Ground" instead of saying "Battery Negative, or Ground".........Not being critical, just adding my 2 cents........thanks.
I forgot to unplug the deck deflector switch when I began to remove the deck - I didn’t pull too hard but the switch was bent enough to separate the joint just a tiny bit - but my mower wouldn’t start - no electricity. I assume it’s the switch. I’ve been trying to figure out this switch in order to buy replacement - this video explains in very well 👍🏼
Thanks for the note. It's a pretty good guess, based on the strain on the switch/connector when you removed the deck, that your problem is related to that deck switch or the wires that feed it. Is it the same tractor as the one we analyzed in the video? Let me know how things work out.
Oh man, I so frustrated, I've spent hours trying to figure our what is wrong with my Countax A2050. Your videos are very informative and instil an optimism which is dashed after spending another hour on the damn thing and getting no further. After winter, I turned it over and it cranked but a little slow, so I topped the battery up over night. When I came back the following morning, I expected it to fire up again no problem but its worse. Despite now having a full battery, it does nothing at all. What I have discovered is that if I put a volt meter on the switch measuring 12-13V, as soon as I switch it to the ON position, the meter drops to 0V. I've bridged the seat switch wires (even though I think the switch is fine), I've bridged the brake switch, I'm stumped. I would have given up by now and called out a pro but with the pandemic lockdown in place, that's not an option :(
I am not familiar with your tractor model, but you can check your key switch with this video I made, if you suspect that to be the problem: ruclips.net/video/s8ed27uFiz4/видео.html Don't assume you've "bridged" the seat switch, especially if there are more than two wires going to it. Make sure PTO is in the off position. Transmission in neutral, or whatever other safety steps are required to start the machine. You could unplug the key switch and use a jumper wire from the battery directly to the wire that takes voltage to the starter solenoid. Alternately, you could use automotive jumper cables to take voltage directly to the starter motor to see if it cranks. Good luck!
Great video, but would have been nice to have wiring diagrams clearer. Also, when referring to each switch in each condition to mention is the contacts were open or closed so could troubleshoot with a multimeter. Thanks for the help.
Great video - thanks for sharing your knowledge.I will have to watch this video several more times to understand the schematic theory.... Interesting comment that the grass deflector is part of the safety switches.. I have run my ride on without the grass deflector and you can see the tips of the blade spinning.
@@Buckwsr It is my understanding that 3 wire starter solenoids use safety switches on the positive 12 volt side and 4 wire solenoids use safety switches on the earth/ ground side. any comment about this? Thanks.
@@dddddd2100 A three-wire starter solenoid gets its ground by virtue of being bolted to the tractor frame. A four-wire solenoid gets it ground from a wire (on the fourth terminal). I don't think it has anything to do with safety switches.
AWESOME VIDEO!!!! THANK YOU!!! if i disabled the ground wire leading to the safety switches, then the switch itself would be disabled and will not prevent my mower from starting?????
Thank you so much! This video not only allowed me to understand but to track down and repair a safety switch issue preventing the PTO switch on my mower from operating properly.
Thank you for your reply. Seems only dealers have access to the wiring diagram. Your diagram shows the connection to the magneto, is it possible to attach one wire to the magneto (and where) and the other to a ground to short the engine by opening this connection.
Online parts manuals often have the wiring diagram in the back. That's where I would look. My guess is that your seat switch has multiple wires because it serves two purposes: completing the starting circuit when starting the engine, and grounding the magneto to kill the engine when you get off the seat. But the exact configuration is hard for me to be certain without the diagram.
HI...great video thanks, My question is probably common, I have a 2015 Snapper RE110...i replaced the belt , charged the battery and now it starts right up but when i lift the brake pedal or engage the blade it shuts down??? Any thoughts? Thank You
Update on the Ferris IS3000 with electrical problem, So I began checking all the safety switches beginning with the one most easiest to reach which was the seat switch and found that inside of the female adapter that the switch plugs into had a poor connection of the charge wire and kill wire the two wires had came dislodged from the spade connector but had enough of a connection to initiate engine start but would fail as soon as the key was released.
It's my understanding that on a solenoid with 4 connections the ground negative side is the side the safety switches are on...and...On a solenoid with 3 connections the ground is where it mounts to the frame so with these the safety switches are on the 12 v positive side.
Great video to show you, in simple terms, that the safety features do (besides annoy you): 1 shut down a running enginer, and 2 stop a non-running engine from starting. Then YOYO to a. Understanding the tactics of diagnosing what is happening in you case, and b. Show how do it on the make (and model) of what own. I started the other way from the make/model and it was like drinking from a firehose. My head exploded. This is a WAAAY better way to start do that you can look at other youtube videos.
I have checked out the function of the safety switches on my riding mower. The switches that use positive voltage to function will work, but none of the switches that uses the ground to function will work. The interesting one is the mower deck guard switch. If I take the guard off the tractor will not start. If I push in the button, the mower will start. If I release the button it should shut down using the ground circuit, but it doesn’t. It will continue running. The seat safety switch doesn’t work, nor does the reverse PTO shut off switch. I have an older model of the R1000 tractor you use in your demonstration. Otherwise, the mower operates as it should. My model number is 247.290000.
Buckwsr I’m trying to figure out why the seat switch, reverse PTO shutoff switch, and the mower deck guard switch won’t work. The PTO lockout switch works, the brake lockout switch works, and the mower deck guard switch works as far as preventing the ignition from working. It will however not stop the engine if the guard were to come off. All the switches that don’t work seem to be using the ground of the electrical system. There is something that is common to all of the switches that don’t work apparently, but I have no idea where that issue would be. There is a good ground to the mower frame as there is no issue with starting. If I were mowing and fell off the tractor, it would continue going on down the road cutting everything in it’s path. I was wondering if you might have an idea for me. Thank you.
Great explanation! Just a nit picky point. Current flows, voltage is applied. When voltage is applied across the solenoid, current flows through the safety switches and energizes the solenoid coil. Like I said nit picky but more correct. Thanks again for the video.
Hey Buckwsr, Nice Flyers shirt and a great explanation. I would like to get the wiring diagram for my Craftsman R110 mower but I never see the option for the wiring diagram on Partsdirect. Since the R110 is basically the same mower as your tutorial, do you think you could email your wiring diagram to me or send me the exact link?
how the N/O switch's are connected ? series or parallel ,and the N/C ? series or parallel ? and the amp's DC compare to AC amp's ratio on the same switch
ok question i have this exact same tractor ... i have checked out all three of the sensors going from key switch to starter solenoid . all three sensor are working properly yet tractor will not even click except for float bowl on carb ... and yes clutch/brake petal is locked in engaged position ..
Great video. Have a short somewhere on a Kubota T1870. Cranks but does not start. Disconnect the wire from each coil pack and it starts. Tested safety switch for brake and PTO. Both tested bad, had continuity on both sets of pins with button depressed. Bought two switches and they tested the same. Continuity on both sets with button depressed. Unlikely two new switches are bad? Replaced ignition switch and reverse mower switch. Seat switch tested good. With coil wires disconnected, mower starts, however seat switch and reverse mower switch do not work. If i get off seat with blades turning, mower keeps running, same with reverse mower switch. Any suggestions? I ran a wire from the ignition coil to a toggle switch, t(an to ground to shut off tractor.
Are you able to find a wiring diagram for your tractor? That would help a lot, I think. I must say I admire your work around....running your own ground wire to the coil to shut down the engine! At least it that way you can still use the tractor!
I ran into a crazy issue with a bad boy zero turn mower , cant figure it out but this thing starts and runs erratic until I move my weight off the seat safety switch then it runs great, now the funny thing is it will not start in that state , I have to depress the seat safety to start - what is making it run terrible with the seat safety engaged but runs great after I open this circuit ? very confusing
Seat switch works Brake switch been replaced by new one Let off brake, mower stops running... What is going on? Could deck/ blade switch be bad? I do not have a shute safety...
Hello my friend, are you here in Pa? I am in Phoenixville. 2017 was a great year...lol I am trying to start a GT18 that I just bought and it will not start. It will not even activate the starter...
So what causes the brake switch or pto switch after start up (release brake) or engage blades kills the engine, the seat switch itself I tested and there is no fault
Great video I have a Ferris IS3000 zero turn that when you turn the key the engine starts but immediately will shut down as soon as you release the key, I have replaced the switch, I have checked the relay and all fuses and I'm getting ready to check all the safety switches, I was just hoping you may have a answer before I go to the trouble of checking each switch as they are very difficult to get to on this model, any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
You're saying that the engine fires up when the key is held in the spring-loaded "start" position (with starter motor running), but cuts off as soon as the key springs back into the "run" position?? That makes no sense to me. Are you sure the engine is really running, or is it possible that the starter motor is still spinning the engine making you think it's running, but really isn't? Verify that the fuel solenoid is working (should be, in both "run" and "start" key positions). Another thing to try....maybe disconnect the wire that applies ground to the magneto when key is in "off" position. That's your "kill" wire that shuts down a running engine. For you, that is probably a white wire, based on the online wiring diagram that I just pulled up.... Finally, check out some of the online small engine repair forums for other ideas, as there may likely be someone else who has experienced the same problem.
@@Buckwsr Yes...I actually have a small engine repair shop and occasionally I get a head scratchier in the shop so I will do some research on You Tube to see if I can find someone who has posted a video that will possibly help and yes its definitely running and stops as soon as the key springs back into run position, I considered the fuel solenoid but the fact that it cranks means that the fuel solenoid is working unless its shutting back off when the key rest back in run position, it could be a faulty oil sending unit which I will check next then all the safety switches, I also pulled up the electrical diagram to locate all the safety switches. This model has a electronic delay module which is around $100.00 that could possibly be the culprit but will see. Thanks for taking the time to make helpful videos and doing the some research on my electrical issue.
@@timpope1221 Ok. I don't remember seeing the electronic control module on the schematic. That may be the culprit. I'm sure you'll figure it out. And when you do, please satisfy my curiosity by replying and letting me know how you solved it. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr I will thanks ! , there is actually 2 different schematics for that mower one is for a model with a Kohler engine and the other a Kawasaki engine.
Yes, it is true that an engine might "crank" or "turn over" and still not "start," perhaps due to fuel, carburation, or compression issues. But inasmuch as this video is exclusively about electrical systems, I don't feel a strong need to distinguish between "cranking/turning over" and "starting" for the purpose of this video.
I have a 38 inch Toro Riding lawn mower that has been serviced and now it starts intermittently, Finished mowing the ;lawn and tried restarting and no luck. I think it is the discharge chute safety switch but I cant find this switch. Where do I look for this switch? It also could be the brake switch. I did check the seat switch and that switch is OK. Thanks
I don't want to disable seat switch, but I want a momentary switch over ride for when I need to lean which removes some pressure from seat switch. Can this be done on a 2017 Husqvarna yth1842?
I sure know what you mean about the need to "lean" from time to time. Ha ha! But what is the difference between a momentary override and "disabling the safety switch"? Pretty much the same thing if you ask me...
I am confused to some degree on switches. I wish you had shown more details on these critical components. For example, you state that while engine is running and you get out of seat, a switch will open and the wiring goes to ground of magneto. But if something is open, it normally stops the flow of electricity. See why I am confused ? If I had a good schematic of the switch in the seat that opens and the wire that goes to ground on coil, I think I would fully understand what's going on. As I imagine the circuit to be is that ground wire from battery is always open , but as soon as the seat switch is closed somehow, the battery negative wire closes and complete path is made and coil gets grounded. I can understand in general how this circuit is supposed to work but I don't see how the switches work. This is my general problem I am having with using the negative side of the battery. With the positive side of the battery, I have less problems because I can see all 3 switches are closed to the solenoid . For example, with the seat occupied a person is pushing close of the switch. So the physical action of the person physically closes a seat switch. The same thing with brake pedal action closes a switch. With the blade not engaged, the switch is closed ? So my problem is with switches internal operations. I understand what the overall topic is trying to do and I see where some safety things are done using the positive side of battery and some safety features us the negative side of battery. But I am fuzzy on how the switches actually operate. So more explanation on nitty gritty operations of switches would clarify everything and I would get better understanding of these safety interlocks. Then to reach to even higher understanding, I would need to know where these switches are typically located on the riding mower. So you may want to do another fuller video in future or just help me first. Thanks. Gerard
Hello! I really hope you answer me. I have a commercial exmark zero turn. When i release the break the engine turns off. I already change the seat switch. But can not find anything else. Thank you in advance.
You really need to get a wiring diagram for your tractor. That's the only way to trace out what happens and why. If I had to take a guess, you may have a relay somewhere in the system that has gone bad. But without a diagram, we're just guessing.....
Why are there three wires from the seat safety switch on Husqvarna ride on mover. The back wire is connected to two outlets, so what is the function of each of the three wires one must be to ground (black) and the other two where do they go and why. Many tks
So am I right in saying if I hear a click each time I turn the key, it's not a safety switch issue, because the clicks indicate the solonoid is being engaged?
Possibly you are correct, but you still have problems if your solenoid only "clicks." What you should hear is the sound of the starter motor turning and the engine coming to life. A suppose the solenoid could click but still be faulty. Gotta get voltage from there to the starter motor. Let me know what you discover. Good luck.
Hi Buck, Do you have a Patreon page or some means for me to pay you as Ive spent 3-days on my Branson 2400H and the ignition will not turover engine unless I jump solenoid. Jumped it with key on , cranked but no start. Can you do a comprehensive video on a sub compact diesel tractor? My Branson 2400H has these switches: seat, clutch, brakes, pto, and gear selector, and...? Something I missed? I have the factory service manual but it glosses over safety switches. Trying to figure out why tractor ran yesterday but will not turn over today, again, unless I jump the solenoid and it cranks but will not start. Have a 2nd 2400H so I swapped ignition and main fuse--still no crank. Been checking continuity on each switch and will do 2 brake switches next. They all seem okay--but are they? I dont know which switches are meant to be open or closed with switch plunger movement. When I press the brake the two switches disengage/extend--would this be open or closed? Sit on seat, depresses. Press clutch depresses. PTO in mid position, I believe depresses safety, but will check again. Chassis grounds? ECU? Battery was as 12.73. Or could it just be the fuel shutoff, but would that disable starter? Anything else?
Hi. I certainly feel your pain and frustration. A few thoughts.... I'm not familiar with with your tractor, but the first thing I would do is get a hold of the wiring schematic, apart from which it is all is a big guessing game. Do what I did in the video and trace out the battery positive with a red pencil, and the battery negative (ground) with a green pencil. This will enable you to fully understand what must happen for the tractor to start and run, as well as what actions will prevent it from starting and/or shut it down when running. Also, search online in the forums and discussion groups for any info you can learn. My way ot thinking is that for any problem I'm having, somebody out there on the web is having (or has had) the same problem. Find out how they resolved it. Your tractor is more complicated than most of the stuff I work on, and if it has an engine computer as you suggest, that adds another element to the puzzle. Safety switches are varied. Some serve to open a connection; others close a connection; some do both. That's why I say the schematic is your best friend here in understanding how it all works. I wish I could be of more help. Good luck! And now that you've got my curiosity up, please let me know what happened, once you get it resolved.
@@Buckwsr I will. I appreciate the quick response. At wit's end checking and rechecking safety switches. Watched anything and everything on the subject but Branson?TYM has a modest dealer network and speaking with mechanics is tough because the service writer usually is a buffer, and does little or no good when they suggest bringing it in 250 miles. Uh no. I am beginning to think it is as simple as the solenoid or chassis grounds. I will check--and recheck. I will update you.
I have a troybilt tb30r year 2014. I can get it to start, I know where are all safety switches are, but when I start it have to keep the clutch/ brake pedal pressed at all times otherwise the engine dies. What am I missing or doing wrong. I’ve completely rebuilt the carb that includes the welsch plug, you should have seen the small dirt particles that came out. HELP
If anyone can please help me. I have a Scott’s model 2048 lawn tractor. Mower starts right up when I’m sitting on the seat but when I pull the switch to engage the blades nothing happens. If I’m not sitting on the seat and pull the switch to engage the blades they start up but the engine immediately shuts down. Help would be greatly appreciated
I notice you have the same Craftman tractor as I do the GT 6000. My problem is from the key switch to solenoid. New solenoid, new key switch. I dont run a grass catcher. Where would the other two be at. Thanks
What exactly is the problem you're having? Turn key and nothing happens? Is that it? For starting the tractor (GT6000), PTO switch must be in the OFF position, and the clutch/brake pedal must be depressed. That's it. Seat switch prevents blades from spinning without a driver sitting in it, and also shuts down the tractor if you get off the tractor without the parking brake set. I have the wiring diagram I could send you...it's in the owner's manual, if you have it....if you email me a guitar4lefties at sign gmail dot com. Good luck.
Hi. I hv a problem when I turn the key on it blows a 30 Amp fuse. The 30 Amp fuse is in a line coming from the battery but I'm not sure where it goes to. I've had trouble with this in the past but it just started working again out of the blue. I will follow red wire from battery thru the fuse holder to see where it goes.
You've got a short somewhere that you'll have to track down. Take a look at the headlight wires....I've seem them short out by melting on the hot muffler. That's one place to start. Good luck.
Explained well, but I still disconnected all these stupid safety switches, on a LT100 I just found in the garbage, Im only using it until I can repower my 1965 Allis Chalmers B10...I understand the need for safety but lord have mercy.
I have a john Deere E100 with 77 hours on it. I was mowing the engine died. It will turn over but not start. I've checked everything I can and all is good. It has to be an electrical problem and I need help
Hi Judy, This video is about safety switches, and the fact that your starter motor engages and cranks the engine means that safety switches are probably NOT your problem. In fact, I don't know why you say that it HAS to be an electrical problem. It may be a fuel problem, or an ignition problem. Try this: Get some starting fluid (Walmart or Auto Parts store have it) and shoot some into the throat of the carburetor. (You may have to remove the air cleaner/air filter to do this). Then try to start the tractor. If it runs for a few seconds and dies, then you'll know it's not an ignition problem, but more likely a fuel problem. If it does not fire or start at all on the starting fluid, then it is probably an ignition problem, and you're not getting spark. An inline spark tester would be helpful to check that. Would love to help you, but that's the best I can do in this format. Good luck.
07 John Deere Sabre. I can jump the solenoid and it starts. The ignition switch is NOT the problem, I've checked it twice. I've checked connections and fuses. What is my next step? Thanks, in advance.
@@Buckwsr No sir, it checks out. After further investigation, I found that the wiring system has been replaced, and a whole bunch of electrical tape. I get the feeling this is going to turn into a major project. I don't want to keep jumping the solenoid for fear of damaging anything more than they are. Basically, I have a giant bowl of spaghetti, but with no meatballs ... ya know, the GOOD stuff. Thank you for your quick response and I'm sure you'll be hearing from me in the near future. PEACE
@@cornfusedatbest6693 check to make sure you're getting 12 volts coming from the key switch to the secondary terminal on the solenoid....that would be one of the smaller terminals on the solenoid, not the two big mail lugs. Good luck!
@@Buckwsr Thanx again. With what I've found, ... and this is just an educated guess, with the whole wiring surgery that has been performed I'm sure to find the answer fairly quick. Now, the trick is going to be getting it back to where it belongs!!! Cataracts are no fun either, ... if you know what I mean. But I digress, thank you again and I'm SURE you'll hear from me again, like, TOMORROW. Thank you sir for your knowledge.
What is happening when all conditions are met for crank but as soon as solenoid jumps to start , it clunks and that's it. Battery starter and solenoid are good, all safety switches bypassed for testing and new starting switch Small diesel tractor.
Try this. Turn key to "run". Take 12V directly to starter with a jumper cable. If it cranks strong, then the starter motor is not the problem. Also, make sure you've got a good ground connection from battery negative to tractor frame. Finally, I have seen solenoids that appear to work but can no longer the heavy draw required by the starter motor. Just had to replace one like that. Good luck. By the way, what is the "clunk"? The engine? Starter? Solenoid?
Buckwsr: Craftsman lt1000. 21.5hp V twin B&S. I have replaced my three (seat, brake, Blades) safety switches. when I try to engage blades or release brake while sitting in seat my motor shuts off. Can you tell me why? Thanks.
Can't say for sure, but it seems like your tractor does not recognize that you are actually sitting in the seat... look up wiring diagram for your tractor and verify all ground connections because your issue is not with getting the engine started but with keeping it running.
You need to do as I demonstrated in the video...Get a hold of the wiring diagram...trace the ground/battery negative since that's what shuts down a running engine...your problem could be the PTO switch, a safety switch, or a relay somewhere along the line. Good luck...
I got a s1642 Scotts riding mower made by John Deree. Every time I release the brake or try to engage the blades it will die. Do you know what could possibly be?
Hi. I would want to look at the wiring diagram for your tractor, but off the top of my head I'm wondering about the driver's seat safety switch...possibly it does not realize that you are actually sitting in the seat but assumes there is no driver. Hence, when you release the parking brake or engage the blades, then engine dies. That would be my first guess....
I don't want you to bypass the safety switches. I want you to understand how they work so you don't need to feel frustrated or intimidated by them. On your tractor, it's really just the reverse switch that seems a bit silly, in my opinion.
Bill Bischer Did you get any help on this problem? I'm having the same issue infact I change the whole rearend and it happend again. I was hoping you found a solution
Hi I have a sears garden tractor model #917.257711 I got the wiring diagram checked all the power source points I have power everywhere it needs to be. When I pull the pto it shuts down. There is power to the switch pull the switch it get power to the other side of the switch and then power to the pto. The pto is new the key switch is new the tractor runs great till you pull the pto then it dies the pto is getting power you can turn the pulley by hand when there is no power on pull the pto switch on I am getting power to it when you try to turn the pulley the motor turns with the pulley. Would you have any thoughts.
I can't say for sure, but I wonder about the Operator Presence (Driver's Seat) safety switch...is it working properly? The driver must be seated in order to engage the PTO. Battery Positive may be making its way to the PTO clutch, but for some reason battery negative (ground) is making its way to the ignition coil and shutting the engine down.
Buckwsr thanks for the reply I put a new set on the tractor you know they say one size fits all. The seat switch does not fit i need to make a bracket for it. I put a jumper till I get a new seat switch. The pto switch when I turn the key switch on I am getting power from the key to the pto switch when I turn it on I have power on both sides. Is there any other test I can do. Thanks for your time
Remove the jumper wire you're using to try to bypass the seat safety switch. Start the engine, and try to turn the blades on. I may be mistaken, but the jumper wire may be doing the opposite of what you think, and simulating the absence of a driver in the seat, not the presence of a driver.
Buckwsr sir you were 100% correct i removed the jumper and everything works i would have never looked at the jumper just so you know the new bracket and seat switch are going in next weekend again many thanks for your info and time and saving my hair
It is most likely the transmission disconnect lever usually on the rear of the mower, that you will either push or pull. With your mower off, you can push the mower around with no resistance then the transmission disconnect is the problem.
Buckwsr no, there’s a huge difference between a riding lawn mower and a tractor. My tractor not only has a pressure switch under the seat but, there is a rod and goes down and disengages something that allows the Hydrostatic system to work. I’m not a mechanic so, I can not give you a better description. But, still if there isn’t a three point hitch system on it... it’s not a tractor... it’s a lawn mower.
I hope you figure it out. There has to be information out there (i.e., on the internet) about your "tractor." (I'll resist the temptation to argue about terminology.) Good luck.
Always be sure to check with your Lawyer before you decide which safety switches you'd be better off without. So, what's wrong with allowing a person to decide for themselves which safety switches they deem necessary? "Sue Crazy America", land of the governed. Every time a lawyer gets a payday, we pay for it.
This video has nothing to do with eliminating safety switches. I explain how they work. I do not suggest attempting to bypass them. Just to be clear on that. Thanks.
Best explanation I've seen on safety switches. Some prevent your engine from starting - others stop your engine from running. Helps simplify the troubleshooting.
You are the man! I’ve been doing this for 15 years and you taught me something today. I’ve been working on a rear discharge Husqvarna lawn tractor (CTH2138R) and trying to figure out why the PTO shuts off when I pull the switch. Normally it’s a brake switch, seat switch, bad PTO switch, bad ground, etc. Everything tested fine. When the customer dropped it off he didn’t have the rear bagger attached. I’ve been racking my brain and was going to print the wiring schematic out tonight. I see that sneaky safety switch hiding on the rear after you mentioned something about a chute safety switch. 99% of what I see are side discharge or mulching. Makes sense. Can’t thank you enough! You da man. Subscribed!!
Yeah, I have not seen many mowers with a safety switch on the discharge chute. Glad you got it figured out!
Great video! I was looking all over to verify that completing the ground is what kills the engine. Thanks for sharing the wiring diagrams with explanation!
Great video and circuit description. Thank you for producing and sharing. Just got done fixing up an old PowerPro 38" 12HP riding lawn mower who's previous owner (my nephew a mechanic and who recently passed away) had disabled all safety switches and was allowing his wife and 13 year old daughter to operate the mower. The grand niece was using the mower, went into reverse hitting a fence post, freaked out and jumped off the mower which kept running with blades turning at full throttle...not good! I now have all the switches repaired and feel a lot better about my niece and grand niece using the mower to be safer when mowing their lawn. I also created some simple instructions/reminders using a label maker on PTO, brake/clutch pedal, seat, and park/speed, FWD/REV lever positions needed to start or prevent the engine from dying.
Great work, Michael, taking care of your mower and your family!
This is the best video I have found explaining the whole safety system. I knew some switches grounded the magneto, but i didn't understand the positive side of things. Thank you for such a thorough explanation. Now I can go to my Cub Cadet LTX 1146 and hopefully find out why it just died while driving. I replaced burned fuse, and starter briefly engages. I expect a ground issue somewhere.
Thanks for the kind note. I suggest you start by trying to figure out why the fuse blew. Good luck!
You have a wonderful ability to explain things simply, clearly, and without unnecessary and irrelevant information. I commend you, and I thank you.
Very kind words. Thank you so much.
Very well laid out video sir. though to myself the functions of the switches is ( common sense ) your video is very well thought out and it shows. Bravo
Thank you, John. Trying to make common sense a little more common, ha ha.
I can't take my foot off brake
Or incase PTO motor shutdown
Thank you this is a great video, we're dealing with a 05 white with a Tecumseh 18.5HP. Basically we changed the blade belt, and now once the engine is running, PTO off, as soon as you touch the PTO lever, The engine shuts down. Day before all good. PTO switch seems to check out, one side NO, the other NC, now to check brake switch.
Hope you figure it out. Can't help but think something happened while changing the deck belt that caused this. Otherwise, it's an awfully strange coincidence.... Good luck.
Hey, never mind, I read one of the other replies and sure enough it was the seat switch...played with it a few mins , unplugged and re-plugged it and it and it was fine.. Thanks
Hey, that's great news. Glad you figured it out. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video......One thing I believe would help avoid confusion for someone who's not real familiar with wiring diagrams, is to just say "Ground" instead of saying "Battery Negative, or Ground".........Not being critical, just adding my 2 cents........thanks.
I forgot to unplug the deck deflector switch when I began to remove the deck - I didn’t pull too hard but the switch was bent enough to separate the joint just a tiny bit - but my mower wouldn’t start - no electricity.
I assume it’s the switch.
I’ve been trying to figure out this switch in order to buy replacement - this video explains in very well 👍🏼
Thanks for the note. It's a pretty good guess, based on the strain on the switch/connector when you removed the deck, that your problem is related to that deck switch or the wires that feed it. Is it the same tractor as the one we analyzed in the video? Let me know how things work out.
Incredibly useful video. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and show the schematic. I learned a lot.
Thanks, Jeff. Glad it was helpful!
Hi. Well done Sir. The way you presented this video ( not show off and very easy) made it exellent . Thanks.
Thank you so much.
Oh man, I so frustrated, I've spent hours trying to figure our what is wrong with my Countax A2050. Your videos are very informative and instil an optimism which is dashed after spending another hour on the damn thing and getting no further.
After winter, I turned it over and it cranked but a little slow, so I topped the battery up over night. When I came back the following morning, I expected it to fire up again no problem but its worse. Despite now having a full battery, it does nothing at all. What I have discovered is that if I put a volt meter on the switch measuring 12-13V, as soon as I switch it to the ON position, the meter drops to 0V. I've bridged the seat switch wires (even though I think the switch is fine), I've bridged the brake switch, I'm stumped.
I would have given up by now and called out a pro but with the pandemic lockdown in place, that's not an option :(
I am not familiar with your tractor model, but you can check your key switch with this video I made, if you suspect that to be the problem: ruclips.net/video/s8ed27uFiz4/видео.html
Don't assume you've "bridged" the seat switch, especially if there are more than two wires going to it. Make sure PTO is in the off position. Transmission in neutral, or whatever other safety steps are required to start the machine. You could unplug the key switch and use a jumper wire from the battery directly to the wire that takes voltage to the starter solenoid. Alternately, you could use automotive jumper cables to take voltage directly to the starter motor to see if it cranks. Good luck!
Great video, but would have been nice to have wiring diagrams clearer. Also, when referring to each switch in each condition to mention is the contacts were open or closed so could troubleshoot with a multimeter. Thanks for the help.
most switches are normally open until operated.
Thanks, you must be or should be a teacher. You are good at it.
Thank you for the kind words! Glad the video was helpful to you.
Great video with clear descriptions of safety switches.
Thank you, Martin, for the kind words.
Great video - thanks for sharing your knowledge.I will have to watch this video several more times to understand the schematic theory.... Interesting comment that the grass deflector is part of the safety switches.. I have run my ride on without the grass deflector and you can see the tips of the blade spinning.
Most tractors I've seen do not have a safety switch on the cutting deck/deflector. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just read - How your Lawn safety switches work and saved to my Watchlater folder .Any one that drives a ride - on should watch this video.
@@Buckwsr It is my understanding that 3 wire starter solenoids use safety switches on the positive 12 volt side and 4 wire solenoids use safety switches on the earth/ ground side. any comment about this? Thanks.
@@dddddd2100 A three-wire starter solenoid gets its ground by virtue of being bolted to the tractor frame. A four-wire solenoid gets it ground from a wire (on the fourth terminal). I don't think it has anything to do with safety switches.
AWESOME VIDEO!!!! THANK YOU!!! if i disabled the ground wire leading to the safety switches, then the switch itself would be disabled and will not prevent my mower from starting?????
Thank you so much! This video not only allowed me to understand but to track down and repair a safety switch issue preventing the PTO switch on my mower from operating properly.
Great job, Fred, on getting it fixed yourself!
Thanks for your knowledge to help us less knowledgeable like me.
Very helpful thanks trying to get my mower running again
Thanks for posting this video. Its a very informative and well explained video.Thumbs up & I subbed.
Great, Ron! I appreciate the kind words. Thank you.
Huge help! Thank you
Well Explained! well Presented! Passionate about What you do, Thank you so much.
Thank you for watching, and for the kind words!
Great video and thank you for helping others.
Very well explained thanks
GREAT ! TUTORIAL !! Many Thanks !!!
Thank you for your reply. Seems only dealers have access to the wiring diagram. Your diagram shows the connection to the magneto, is it possible to attach one wire to the magneto (and where) and the other to a ground to short the engine by opening this connection.
Online parts manuals often have the wiring diagram in the back. That's where I would look. My guess is that your seat switch has multiple wires because it serves two purposes: completing the starting circuit when starting the engine, and grounding the magneto to kill the engine when you get off the seat. But the exact configuration is hard for me to be certain without the diagram.
Well taught! Clear,consise,
Great explanation. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video Buck.
Thank you!
This is just what I was looking for. Thank you!
Thank you Steve!
HI...great video thanks, My question is probably common, I have a 2015 Snapper RE110...i replaced the belt , charged the battery and now it starts right up but when i lift the brake pedal or engage the blade it shuts down??? Any thoughts? Thank You
check your seat switch or wires?
Thanks, you just showed me why my tractor cranks but won't start.
Update on the Ferris IS3000 with electrical problem, So I began checking all the safety switches beginning with the one most easiest to reach which was the seat switch and found that inside of the female adapter that the switch plugs into had a poor connection of the charge wire and kill wire the two wires had came dislodged from the spade connector but had enough of a connection to initiate engine start but would fail as soon as the key was released.
Excellent work in tracking down the problem and fixing it!!!
Well Explained! Good Job ..
Thank you!
Very nicely explained. Thank you!
It's my understanding that on a solenoid with 4 connections the ground negative side is the side the safety switches are on...and...On a solenoid with 3 connections the ground is where it mounts to the frame so with these the safety switches are on the 12 v positive side.
Great video to show you, in simple terms, that the safety features do (besides annoy you): 1 shut down a running enginer, and 2 stop a non-running engine from starting. Then YOYO to a. Understanding the tactics of diagnosing what is happening in you case, and b. Show how do it on the make (and model) of what own. I started the other way from the make/model and it was like drinking from a firehose. My head exploded. This is a WAAAY better way to start do that you can look at other youtube videos.
Dam Good Explanation.
I'm going to say it for everyone, I HATE SAFETY SWITCHES, your welcome.
I have checked out the function of the safety switches on my riding mower. The switches that use positive voltage to function will work, but none of the switches that uses the ground to function will work. The interesting one is the mower deck guard switch. If I take the guard off the tractor will not start. If I push in the button, the mower will start. If I release the button it should shut down using the ground circuit, but it doesn’t. It will continue running. The seat safety switch doesn’t work, nor does the reverse PTO shut off switch. I have an older model of the R1000 tractor you use in your demonstration. Otherwise, the mower operates as it should. My model number is 247.290000.
Interesting note. Thank you. But what specific issue are you trying to resolve?
Buckwsr I’m trying to figure out why the seat switch, reverse PTO shutoff switch, and the mower deck guard switch won’t work. The PTO lockout switch works, the brake lockout switch works, and the mower deck guard switch works as far as preventing the ignition from working. It will however not stop the engine if the guard were to come off. All the switches that don’t work seem to be using the ground of the electrical system. There is something that is common to all of the switches that don’t work apparently, but I have no idea where that issue would be. There is a good ground to the mower frame as there is no issue with starting. If I were mowing and fell off the tractor, it would continue going on down the road cutting everything in it’s path. I was wondering if you might have an idea for me. Thank you.
Great explanation! Just a nit picky point. Current flows, voltage is applied. When voltage is applied across the solenoid, current flows through the safety switches and energizes the solenoid coil. Like I said nit picky but more correct. Thanks again for the video.
Hey Buckwsr, Nice Flyers shirt and a great explanation. I would like to get the wiring diagram for my Craftsman R110 mower but I never see the option for the wiring diagram on Partsdirect.
Since the R110 is basically the same mower as your tutorial, do you think you could email your wiring diagram to me or send me the exact link?
Go to searspartsdirect and download the manual for your tractor model. The electrical diagrams are at the end of the manual. That's where I find mine.
great video
Excellent!
Super, very good video
how the N/O switch's are connected ? series or parallel ,and the N/C ? series or parallel ? and the amp's DC compare to AC amp's ratio on the same switch
I like these charts, can I download these
ok question i have this exact same tractor ... i have checked out all three of the sensors going from key switch to starter solenoid . all three sensor are working properly yet tractor will not even click except for float bowl on carb ... and yes clutch/brake petal is locked in engaged position ..
what is Sears and who is Montgomery Wards, where is K-mart. Great video. thanks. :)
Great video. Have a short somewhere on a Kubota T1870. Cranks but does not start. Disconnect the wire from each coil pack and it starts. Tested safety switch for brake and PTO. Both tested bad, had continuity on both sets of pins with button depressed. Bought two switches and they tested the same. Continuity on both sets with button depressed. Unlikely two new switches are bad? Replaced ignition switch and reverse mower switch. Seat switch tested good. With coil wires disconnected, mower starts, however seat switch and reverse mower switch do not work. If i get off seat with blades turning, mower keeps running, same with reverse mower switch. Any suggestions? I ran a wire from the ignition coil to a toggle switch, t(an to ground to shut off tractor.
Are you able to find a wiring diagram for your tractor? That would help a lot, I think. I must say I admire your work around....running your own ground wire to the coil to shut down the engine! At least it that way you can still use the tractor!
@@Buckwsr No I have not found a wiring diagram. We have been gone for two weeks. I'll be back at it this week. Would like the safety switches working.
I ran into a crazy issue with a bad boy zero turn mower , cant figure it out but this thing starts and runs erratic until I move my weight off the seat safety switch then it runs great, now the funny thing is it will not start in that state , I have to depress the seat safety to start - what is making it run terrible with the seat safety engaged but runs great after I open this circuit ? very confusing
Safety Switches keep me safe from having to mow the Lawn.
Seat switch works
Brake switch been replaced by new one
Let off brake, mower stops running...
What is going on? Could deck/ blade switch be bad?
I do not have a shute safety...
Hello my friend, are you here in Pa? I am in Phoenixville. 2017 was a great year...lol I am trying to start a GT18 that I just bought and it will not start. It will not even activate the starter...
Hi John, I am in South Jersey. Not sure how far that is from you. Good luck with the diagnosis!
awesome
Thanks!
So what causes the brake switch or pto switch after start up (release brake) or engage blades kills the engine, the seat switch itself I tested and there is no fault
Thanks!
Great video I have a Ferris IS3000 zero turn that when you turn the key the engine starts but immediately will shut down as soon as you release the key, I have replaced the switch, I have checked the relay and all fuses and I'm getting ready to check all the safety switches, I was just hoping you may have a answer before I go to the trouble of checking each switch as they are very difficult to get to on this model, any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
You're saying that the engine fires up when the key is held in the spring-loaded "start" position (with starter motor running), but cuts off as soon as the key springs back into the "run" position?? That makes no sense to me. Are you sure the engine is really running, or is it possible that the starter motor is still spinning the engine making you think it's running, but really isn't? Verify that the fuel solenoid is working (should be, in both "run" and "start" key positions). Another thing to try....maybe disconnect the wire that applies ground to the magneto when key is in "off" position. That's your "kill" wire that shuts down a running engine. For you, that is probably a white wire, based on the online wiring diagram that I just pulled up.... Finally, check out some of the online small engine repair forums for other ideas, as there may likely be someone else who has experienced the same problem.
@@Buckwsr Yes...I actually have a small engine repair shop and occasionally I get a head scratchier in the shop so I will do some research on You Tube to see if I can find someone who has posted a video that will possibly help and yes its definitely running and stops as soon as the key springs back into run position, I considered the fuel solenoid but the fact that it cranks means that the fuel solenoid is working unless its shutting back off when the key rest back in run position, it could be a faulty oil sending unit which I will check next then all the safety switches, I also pulled up the electrical diagram to locate all the safety switches. This model has a electronic delay module which is around $100.00 that could possibly be the culprit but will see. Thanks for taking the time to make helpful videos and doing the some research on my electrical issue.
@@timpope1221 Ok. I don't remember seeing the electronic control module on the schematic. That may be the culprit. I'm sure you'll figure it out. And when you do, please satisfy my curiosity by replying and letting me know how you solved it. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr I will thanks ! , there is actually 2 different schematics for that mower one is for a model with a Kohler engine and the other a Kawasaki engine.
You mafe it more understandable
Please…… speak about “not turning over” and “will not start” Different problems…..TIA👍🏼
Yes, it is true that an engine might "crank" or "turn over" and still not "start," perhaps due to fuel, carburation, or compression issues. But inasmuch as this video is exclusively about electrical systems, I don't feel a strong need to distinguish between "cranking/turning over" and "starting" for the purpose of this video.
I have a 38 inch Toro Riding lawn mower that has been serviced and now it starts intermittently, Finished mowing the ;lawn and tried restarting and no luck. I think it is the discharge chute safety switch but I cant find this switch. Where do I look for this switch? It also could be the brake switch. I did check the seat switch and that switch is OK. Thanks
I don't want to disable seat switch, but I want a momentary switch over ride for when I need to lean which removes some pressure from seat switch. Can this be done on a 2017 Husqvarna yth1842?
I sure know what you mean about the need to "lean" from time to time. Ha ha! But what is the difference between a momentary override and "disabling the safety switch"? Pretty much the same thing if you ask me...
I am confused to some degree on switches. I wish you had shown more details on these critical components.
For example, you state that while engine is running and you get out of seat, a switch will open and the wiring goes to ground of magneto.
But if something is open, it normally stops the flow of electricity. See why I am confused ?
If I had a good schematic of the switch in the seat that opens and the wire that goes to ground on coil, I think I would fully understand what's going on.
As I imagine the circuit to be is that ground wire from battery is always open , but as soon as the seat switch is closed somehow, the battery negative wire closes and complete path is made and coil gets grounded.
I can understand in general how this circuit is supposed to work but I don't see how the switches work. This is my general problem I am having with using the negative side of the battery.
With the positive side of the battery, I have less problems because I can see all 3 switches are closed to the solenoid . For example, with the seat occupied a person is pushing close of the switch. So the physical action of the person physically closes a seat switch. The same thing with brake pedal action closes a switch. With the blade not engaged, the switch is closed ?
So my problem is with switches internal operations.
I understand what the overall topic is trying to do and I see where some safety things are done using the positive side of battery and some safety features us the negative side of battery. But I am fuzzy on how the switches actually operate.
So more explanation on nitty gritty operations of switches would clarify everything and I would get better understanding of these safety interlocks.
Then to reach to even higher understanding, I would need to know where these switches are typically located on the riding mower.
So you may want to do another fuller video in future or just help me first.
Thanks.
Gerard
if your safety switch under your seat is bad does this prevent from starting from key switch also ? thanks
Yes, a bad seat switch could prevent starting, but not every tractor is set up the same. Consult the wiring diagram for your make and model.
@@Buckwsr how do you test the 4 pin switch ? i have a multimeter
How do you adjust the park break does not hold on a Craftsman. Y three thousand
Hello! I really hope you answer me. I have a commercial exmark zero turn. When i release the break the engine turns off. I already change the seat switch. But can not find anything else. Thank you in advance.
You really need to get a wiring diagram for your tractor. That's the only way to trace out what happens and why. If I had to take a guess, you may have a relay somewhere in the system that has gone bad. But without a diagram, we're just guessing.....
Why are there three wires from the seat safety switch on Husqvarna ride on mover. The back wire is connected to two outlets, so what is the function of each of the three wires one must be to ground (black) and the other two where do they go and why. Many tks
Can you find the wiring diagram for your tractor? That would be the easiest way to figure it out.
So am I right in saying if I hear a click each time I turn the key, it's not a safety switch issue, because the clicks indicate the solonoid is being engaged?
Possibly you are correct, but you still have problems if your solenoid only "clicks." What you should hear is the sound of the starter motor turning and the engine coming to life. A suppose the solenoid could click but still be faulty. Gotta get voltage from there to the starter motor. Let me know what you discover. Good luck.
Hi Buck, Do you have a Patreon page or some means for me to pay you as Ive spent 3-days on my Branson 2400H and the ignition will not turover engine unless I jump solenoid. Jumped it with key on , cranked but no start.
Can you do a comprehensive video on a sub compact diesel tractor? My Branson 2400H has these switches: seat, clutch, brakes, pto, and gear selector, and...? Something I missed? I have the factory service manual but it glosses over safety switches.
Trying to figure out why tractor ran yesterday but will not turn over today, again, unless I jump the solenoid and it cranks but will not start. Have a 2nd 2400H so I swapped ignition and main fuse--still no crank. Been checking continuity on each switch and will do 2 brake switches next. They all seem okay--but are they? I dont know which switches are meant to be open or closed with switch plunger movement. When I press the brake the two switches disengage/extend--would this be open or closed? Sit on seat, depresses. Press clutch depresses. PTO in mid position, I believe depresses safety, but will check again.
Chassis grounds?
ECU? Battery was as 12.73.
Or could it just be the fuel shutoff, but would that disable starter? Anything else?
Hi. I certainly feel your pain and frustration. A few thoughts.... I'm not familiar with with your tractor, but the first thing I would do is get a hold of the wiring schematic, apart from which it is all is a big guessing game. Do what I did in the video and trace out the battery positive with a red pencil, and the battery negative (ground) with a green pencil. This will enable you to fully understand what must happen for the tractor to start and run, as well as what actions will prevent it from starting and/or shut it down when running. Also, search online in the forums and discussion groups for any info you can learn. My way ot thinking is that for any problem I'm having, somebody out there on the web is having (or has had) the same problem. Find out how they resolved it. Your tractor is more complicated than most of the stuff I work on, and if it has an engine computer as you suggest, that adds another element to the puzzle. Safety switches are varied. Some serve to open a connection; others close a connection; some do both. That's why I say the schematic is your best friend here in understanding how it all works. I wish I could be of more help. Good luck! And now that you've got my curiosity up, please let me know what happened, once you get it resolved.
@@Buckwsr I will. I appreciate the quick response. At wit's end checking and rechecking safety switches. Watched anything and everything on the subject but Branson?TYM has a modest dealer network and speaking with mechanics is tough because the service writer usually is a buffer, and does little or no good when they suggest bringing it in 250 miles. Uh no. I am beginning to think it is as simple as the solenoid or chassis grounds. I will check--and recheck. I will update you.
I have a troybilt tb30r year 2014. I can get it to start, I know where are all safety switches are, but when I start it have to keep the clutch/ brake pedal pressed at all times otherwise the engine dies. What am I missing or doing wrong. I’ve completely rebuilt the carb that includes the welsch plug, you should have seen the small dirt particles that came out. HELP
If I had to take a guess, I'd look for a bad relay. Test it, or just swap it out and see....
If anyone can please help me. I have a Scott’s model 2048 lawn tractor. Mower starts right up when I’m sitting on the seat but when I pull the switch to engage the blades nothing happens. If I’m not sitting on the seat and pull the switch to engage the blades they start up but the engine immediately shuts down. Help would be greatly appreciated
I notice you have the same Craftman tractor as I do the GT 6000. My problem is from the key switch to solenoid. New solenoid, new key switch. I dont run a grass catcher. Where would the other two be at. Thanks
What exactly is the problem you're having? Turn key and nothing happens? Is that it? For starting the tractor (GT6000), PTO switch must be in the OFF position, and the clutch/brake pedal must be depressed. That's it. Seat switch prevents blades from spinning without a driver sitting in it, and also shuts down the tractor if you get off the tractor without the parking brake set. I have the wiring diagram I could send you...it's in the owner's manual, if you have it....if you email me a guitar4lefties at sign gmail dot com. Good luck.
I turn the key nothing, I have to jump start with a screwdriver at the solenoid
Found the problem, the in and out gage switch for the deck was bad. Thank you for awesome video.
@@stetsonhawk68 Great job diagnosing it and fixing it yourself!
Hi. I hv a problem when I turn the key on it blows a 30 Amp fuse. The 30 Amp fuse is in a line coming from the battery but I'm not sure where it goes to. I've had trouble with this in the past but it just started working again out of the blue. I will follow red wire from battery thru the fuse holder to see where it goes.
You've got a short somewhere that you'll have to track down. Take a look at the headlight wires....I've seem them short out by melting on the hot muffler. That's one place to start. Good luck.
Explained well, but I still disconnected all these stupid safety switches, on a LT100 I just found in the garbage, Im only using it until I can repower my 1965 Allis Chalmers B10...I understand the need for safety but lord have mercy.
I have a john Deere E100 with 77 hours on it. I was mowing the engine died. It will turn over but not start. I've checked everything I can and all is good. It has to be an electrical problem and I need help
Hi Judy, This video is about safety switches, and the fact that your starter motor engages and cranks the engine means that safety switches are probably NOT your problem. In fact, I don't know why you say that it HAS to be an electrical problem. It may be a fuel problem, or an ignition problem. Try this: Get some starting fluid (Walmart or Auto Parts store have it) and shoot some into the throat of the carburetor. (You may have to remove the air cleaner/air filter to do this). Then try to start the tractor. If it runs for a few seconds and dies, then you'll know it's not an ignition problem, but more likely a fuel problem. If it does not fire or start at all on the starting fluid, then it is probably an ignition problem, and you're not getting spark. An inline spark tester would be helpful to check that. Would love to help you, but that's the best I can do in this format. Good luck.
I have a cub cade that the mice have eaten through all three wires. I have a time mgetting it started to load it. Could eaten wires be the cause.
This was great for "understand" but where is the diagnose, fix part?
Ha! Now that you understand, the diagnose and fix is up to you!
I got lost way back there. Too much troubleshooting. Need a switch to turn them all off
What about John Deere four wire safety switch on 970 old one
The wiring diagram will answer that question for you....
"Video unavailable watch this video on youtube"...I'm on youtube when I get this message...HELP!!! LOL!!!
I have no idea what you mean....???
07 John Deere Sabre. I can jump the solenoid and it starts. The ignition switch is NOT the problem, I've checked it twice. I've checked connections and fuses. What is my next step? Thanks, in advance.
Possibly solenoid is bad? ruclips.net/video/lGStgLUHBDE/видео.html
@@Buckwsr No sir, it checks out. After further investigation, I found that the wiring system has been replaced, and a whole bunch of electrical tape. I get the feeling this is going to turn into a major project. I don't want to keep jumping the solenoid for fear of damaging anything more than they are. Basically, I have a giant bowl of spaghetti, but with no meatballs ... ya know, the GOOD stuff. Thank you for your quick response and I'm sure you'll be hearing from me in the near future. PEACE
@@cornfusedatbest6693 check to make sure you're getting 12 volts coming from the key switch to the secondary terminal on the solenoid....that would be one of the smaller terminals on the solenoid, not the two big mail lugs. Good luck!
@@Buckwsr Thanx again. With what I've found, ... and this is just an educated guess, with the whole wiring surgery that has been performed I'm sure to find the answer fairly quick. Now, the trick is going to be getting it back to where it belongs!!! Cataracts are no fun either, ... if you know what I mean. But I digress, thank you again and I'm SURE you'll hear from me again, like, TOMORROW. Thank you sir for your knowledge.
That was bussin
What is happening when all conditions are met for crank but as soon as solenoid jumps to start , it clunks and that's it. Battery starter and solenoid are good, all safety switches bypassed for testing and new starting switch Small diesel tractor.
Try this. Turn key to "run". Take 12V directly to starter with a jumper cable. If it cranks strong, then the starter motor is not the problem. Also, make sure you've got a good ground connection from battery negative to tractor frame. Finally, I have seen solenoids that appear to work but can no longer the heavy draw required by the starter motor. Just had to replace one like that. Good luck. By the way, what is the "clunk"? The engine? Starter? Solenoid?
@@Buckwsr Starter is good I think I'm at the bypass point but prefer not to.
If you turn the key to "start," and 12V makes it way to the secondary (smaller) terminal on your solenoid, then Safety Switches is NOT your problem.
visual and actual showing the tractor and functions you speak of would be more helpful
You make a good point, thank you.
Buckwsr: Craftsman lt1000. 21.5hp V twin B&S. I have replaced my three (seat, brake, Blades) safety switches. when I try to engage blades or release brake while sitting in seat my motor shuts off. Can you tell me why? Thanks.
Can't say for sure, but it seems like your tractor does not recognize that you are actually sitting in the seat... look up wiring diagram for your tractor and verify all ground connections because your issue is not with getting the engine started but with keeping it running.
Is it possible to post a pix of the diagram you have of the tractor in your video? Thanks Dave
So if i jump the solenoid and it starts but then i turn on the pto/deck it kills the engine with no deck conected it's a saftey switch?
You need to do as I demonstrated in the video...Get a hold of the wiring diagram...trace the ground/battery negative since that's what shuts down a running engine...your problem could be the PTO switch, a safety switch, or a relay somewhere along the line. Good luck...
Ok thanks, will do 😊
I got a s1642 Scotts riding mower made by John Deree. Every time I release the brake or try to engage the blades it will die. Do you know what could possibly be?
Hi. I would want to look at the wiring diagram for your tractor, but off the top of my head I'm wondering about the driver's seat safety switch...possibly it does not realize that you are actually sitting in the seat but assumes there is no driver. Hence, when you release the parking brake or engage the blades, then engine dies. That would be my first guess....
@@Buckwsr You were spot on! I jumped the seat safety switch and it worked. It won't die anymore. Thank you so much!!
Hey, that's great news! Glad you figured it out. Thanks for watching and commenting on my video.
wish you just showed me a way to take the switches out , we have same tractor
I don't want you to bypass the safety switches. I want you to understand how they work so you don't need to feel frustrated or intimidated by them. On your tractor, it's really just the reverse switch that seems a bit silly, in my opinion.
Hey ask your brother he's a service tech
Hey just call your brother he's a service tech
My mower locks up when not running. HEIP
Bill Bischer Did you get any help on this problem? I'm having the same issue infact I change the whole rearend and it happend again. I was hoping you found a solution
I want the choice to have safety switches or not. Unfortunately the state wants to protect us from ourselves. That should be my choice
Hi I have a sears garden tractor model #917.257711 I got the wiring diagram checked all the power source points I have power everywhere it needs to be. When I pull the pto it shuts down. There is power to the switch pull the switch it get power to the other side of the switch and then power to the pto. The pto is new the key switch is new the tractor runs great till you pull the pto then it dies the pto is getting power you can turn the pulley by hand when there is no power on pull the pto switch on I am getting power to it when you try to turn the pulley the motor turns with the pulley. Would you have any thoughts.
I can't say for sure, but I wonder about the Operator Presence (Driver's Seat) safety switch...is it working properly? The driver must be seated in order to engage the PTO. Battery Positive may be making its way to the PTO clutch, but for some reason battery negative (ground) is making its way to the ignition coil and shutting the engine down.
And I would also verify that the PTO switch is working properly....
Buckwsr thanks for the reply I put a new set on the tractor you know they say one size fits all. The seat switch does not fit i need to make a bracket for it. I put a jumper till I get a new seat switch. The pto switch when I turn the key switch on I am getting power from the key to the pto switch when I turn it on I have power on both sides. Is there any other test I can do. Thanks for your time
Remove the jumper wire you're using to try to bypass the seat safety switch. Start the engine, and try to turn the blades on. I may be mistaken, but the jumper wire may be doing the opposite of what you think, and simulating the absence of a driver in the seat, not the presence of a driver.
Buckwsr sir you were 100% correct i removed the jumper and everything works i would have never looked at the jumper just so you know the new bracket and seat switch are going in next weekend again many thanks for your info and time and saving my hair
never have understood why so many people want to disable all these switches
Just to be clear, I don't disable them. This video was about how they work, not how to bypass them.
you are correct your video is good i was trying to refer to those that brag about disabling them
Safety is a matter of sureme INTELEGENCE,
Which should not be for sale to the poo for brains general public
Those speaking about intelligence should probably learn how to spell it....
My tractor fires up it doesn't turn off or nothing it just doesn't go forward or reverse and my belt looks to be fine I don't hear any funny noises
If you tractor starts up and stays running, then you are not having problems with the safety switches. Your problem is something else....
It is most likely the transmission disconnect lever usually on the rear of the mower, that you will either push or pull. With your mower off, you can push the mower around with no resistance then the transmission disconnect is the problem.
That’s not a tractor, it’s a riding lawn mower.
I need safety switch info on a Actual tractor with front end loader and 3 point hitch.
It's probably not that much different. The principles are still the same. Let me know if you figure it out....
Buckwsr no, there’s a huge difference between a riding lawn mower and a tractor.
My tractor not only has a pressure switch under the seat but, there is a rod and goes down and disengages something that allows the Hydrostatic system to work.
I’m not a mechanic so, I can not give you a better description. But, still if there isn’t a three point hitch system on it... it’s not a tractor... it’s a lawn mower.
I hope you figure it out. There has to be information out there (i.e., on the internet) about your "tractor." (I'll resist the temptation to argue about terminology.) Good luck.
I don't call a belt driven lawnmower a tractor.
No offense intended.
Always be sure to check with your Lawyer before you decide which safety switches you'd be better off without.
So, what's wrong with allowing a person to decide for themselves which safety switches they deem necessary? "Sue Crazy America", land of the governed. Every time a lawyer gets a payday, we pay for it.
This video has nothing to do with eliminating safety switches. I explain how they work. I do not suggest attempting to bypass them. Just to be clear on that. Thanks.