I am a apprentist learning the autobody from my friend but with this video I learn something new that is different from the techniques that my friend told me. Not to mention the guide coat it is very helpful
That's reassuring, sometimes I feel like maybe it's too rehearsed and not spontaneous enough. I get as much info in one video as I can. Welcome to the channel I appreciate the support!
Just catching up (found) your videos. Going to go back and watch earlier ones now. Just a question, maybe answered in another video, I see other metal workers/restorers, hammering out their dents so when sanded with 80 grit the repair blends perfectly with all the metal around it (lots of small dents taken care of and shrinking disks when needed). Would that only be something you'd do on older cars with thicker metal?
Metal finishing to perfection works better on older vehicles with thicker metal. It can be done on some of the newer vehicles, but the kind of work I'm doing right now is collision. Work production work and it's very time consuming to metal finish everything. so there's nothing wrong with the minimal amount of filler. I wouldn't be scared of it at all and it takes a lot of time, And a lot of skill to metal finish something perfect.
Nice job. The only thing i do different is make a tight wipe of bondo to surface 1st. I don't use glaze if i have to the high build 2k is enough to fill the 320 scratches.
Ive seen a guy adding fiberglass resin(only resin, without hardner) to the regular body filler to make it smoother. Ive never check this myself because i dont have fiberglass resin in my small diy garage. Keep them videos. Im sure itll be great paintjob
Hi Chris, Excellent video. On those three body lines did you use tape above or below and sand to the tape? Other tech's do that and was curious? Thanks and have a nice weekend.
I did not but that is a great technique to use. I should probably do a full dedicated video to body lines. Thank's for watching and supporting the channel!
@@GarageNoise That would be a wonderful video. Someone like yourself with years of bodywork experience doesn't need to do that but DIY guys need more help. GREAT!! Dan
If you've got a wave, which is a gradual low spread over a larger area then high build will generally work to block it out. If you have more of a dent or deeper low than glaze is a better option. If I'm in doubt I go with glaze. That's the best way I can explain it hope it helps. Appreciate the support!
Hello, brought my wheel fender down to bare metal . Rust area, used steel mesh with Bondo glass. Should I leave bare metal and just prime and paint, or cover with Bondo regular filler? Thanks
Hello, If I didn't want to clear the whole panel , if I loose mask, what steps could I take to eliminate whatever transition I created by not clear coating the entire rear panel if truck? Thanks I am using 2 k can clear
@@flipper2473 wet sand with 1500 or 2000 about 4-6 inches outside where you plan on ending the clear. Right after you finsh your clear wash it in with urethane reducer you can get it in an aerosol upol #9 this will help the clear bite into the scratch an smooyh the transition. You will need to buff when it's cured, always buff away from blend.
I would love to have you teach me in person I work at a body shop and the body man over there doesn’t care to do so my guess is he feels threatening not being number one 😂
No reason other than I typically prep and then paint the same day and it takes me longer to get everything dry. Water likes to hide and blow out of cracks into your paint job. Appreciate the comment and support!
Where is your guide coat? All conjecture if you omit that step. Will be wavy or you might get lucky. You Dont want that bumper looking like you blocked it with your feet.
I am a apprentist learning the autobody from my friend but with this video I learn something new that is different from the techniques that my friend told me. Not to mention the guide coat it is very helpful
👍
New to the channel and i offer my compliments.
Too many youtubers are unrehearsed and thusly talk too much.
This was well put together.
That's reassuring, sometimes I feel like maybe it's too rehearsed and not spontaneous enough. I get as much info in one video as I can. Welcome to the channel I appreciate the support!
Great job. That body line came out very nice!
Appreciate it, thank's for supporting the channel!
Just catching up (found) your videos. Going to go back and watch earlier ones now. Just a question, maybe answered in another video, I see other metal workers/restorers, hammering out their dents so when sanded with 80 grit the repair blends perfectly with all the metal around it (lots of small dents taken care of and shrinking disks when needed). Would that only be something you'd do on older cars with thicker metal?
Metal finishing to perfection works better on older vehicles with thicker metal. It can be done on some of the newer vehicles, but the kind of work I'm doing right now is collision. Work production work and it's very time consuming to metal finish everything. so there's nothing wrong with the minimal amount of filler. I wouldn't be scared of it at all and it takes a lot of time, And a lot of skill to metal finish something perfect.
Awesome video brother nice work 👍
Thanks brother, appreciate the support! Enjoy your channel as well!
Nice job. The only thing i do different is make a tight wipe of bondo to surface 1st. I don't use glaze if i have to the high build 2k is enough to fill the 320 scratches.
👍
Ive seen a guy adding fiberglass resin(only resin, without hardner) to the regular body filler to make it smoother. Ive never check this myself because i dont have fiberglass resin in my small diy garage. Keep them videos. Im sure itll be great paintjob
Probably bad chad lol. Honey is just fiberglass resin renamed. When I add resin in my z-grip I do add couple drops of clear hardener to the mix
Great video Chris
Thank's brother!
Always amazing video thanks for share
Thank's brother!
Very helpful. Great way to teach .
Thank's brother, appreciate the support!
what filler should i use for tiny pock marks from rocks on hood before painting and process thanks
Polyester glaze if you just want to fill chips.
This is what I use
amzn.to/3PJkeya
Thank you for all the tips ! Great job…
Appreciate it Joan!
Hi Chris, Excellent video. On those three body lines did you use tape above or below and sand to the tape? Other tech's do that and was curious? Thanks and have a nice weekend.
I did not but that is a great technique to use. I should probably do a full dedicated video to body lines. Thank's for watching and supporting the channel!
@@GarageNoise That would be a wonderful video. Someone like yourself with years of bodywork experience doesn't need to do that but DIY guys need more help. GREAT!! Dan
Always a pleasure my friend watching your videos... one question sir if a may, what filler is the best for applying directly to metal and paint
I like evercoat rage ultra for that. It's fantastic! not cheap tho. Evercoat Rage is great as well
amzn.to/3Pvj2Md
Rage ultra
amzn.to/3onB4UJ
Nice job very informative
Thank's brother!
How do you choose between high build primer versus glaze?
If you've got a wave, which is a gradual low spread over a larger area then high build will generally work to block it out. If you have more of a dent or deeper low than glaze is a better option. If I'm in doubt I go with glaze. That's the best way I can explain it hope it helps. Appreciate the support!
Good work!
👍
Great video!
Appreciate it!
Hello, brought my wheel fender down to bare metal . Rust area, used steel mesh with Bondo glass. Should I leave bare metal and just prime and paint, or cover with Bondo regular filler? Thanks
You need to primer bare metal with a direct to metal primer or a self erching primer before paint. For adhesion
Thanks, would it be advisable to use body filler over bare metal , then primer over filler, then primer on top of the filler? Thanks for your help
Hello, If I didn't want to clear the whole panel , if I loose mask, what steps could I take to eliminate whatever transition I created by not clear coating the entire rear panel if truck? Thanks I am using 2 k can clear
@@flipper2473 yes you can use filler over the bare metal if it's needed.
@@flipper2473 wet sand with 1500 or 2000 about 4-6 inches outside where you plan on ending the clear. Right after you finsh your clear wash it in with urethane reducer you can get it in an aerosol upol #9 this will help the clear bite into the scratch an smooyh the transition. You will need to buff when it's cured, always buff away from blend.
I came here thinking this was body contouring fillers, not auto body contouring fillers. 😂
This stuff works great for that too!
jk jk 😄
What do you use to clean between sanding and priming?
Spray away glass cleaner, isopropyl alchohol or wax and Grease remover or all three. Thank's for watching appreciate the support!
I would love to have you teach me in person I work at a body shop and the body man over there doesn’t care to do so my guess is he feels threatening not being number one 😂
👍
Press filler in firmly and and use a file before it's hard, and scuff previous coat for next coat too grab
Good job
👍thank you!
I like evercoat eco i new to bodywork
People: Why is body work so expensive?
The Work Involved 👆🏻👆🏻
Thank you,
👍
Love z grip and heard they will discontinue! Love usc icing as it works good! Sub'd to your channel ! 👍
Thanks brother! Appreciate the support!
Why dont you usewet sand?
No reason other than I typically prep and then paint the same day and it takes me longer to get everything dry. Water likes to hide and blow out of cracks into your paint job. Appreciate the comment and support!
@@GarageNoise yeah! Just to know.. Newbie here... Thank u for reply....keep reply like that many things to Learn no matter what
If they would build cars instead of making them....we wouldn't need as much drywall mud on these Tupperware containers
For sure!
Where is your guide coat? All conjecture if you omit that step. Will be wavy or you might get lucky. You Dont want that bumper looking like you blocked it with your feet.
Seen this many times fail 180 is not enough etch for next coat of filler
Why such big ridges
evercoat products are really crappy compared to roberlo.
Everyone has their preference. I like some some of Roberto's products but had some issues with adhesion. Appreciate the comment and support!
Your crazy. Evercoat Rage Optex color changing filler is the best, no question.
@@thomassenemounnarath3278 keep wasting your money
🎯🪭⚖️🌌