Same here. I probably wouldn't have torn it out, but that said I have a flat bottom and I took all the foam out from under the deck because it was waterlogged.
Great stuff man. I do not think I would have torn it out. I am a novice at that but a question please. Could you use the 1/4" thick fan fold insulation board to build up that depth issue so the plywood would rest again on foam? Thanks so much for the videos!
Sheet the sides with aluminum as well and 4200 it at the edge of the floor, water problem solved and fill void with foam ie finish the sides up, great lookin boat and nice job 👍
That little gap is why I'm using XPS foam for everything. Fuk it. I have redone several boats and all pour foam does is suck up water, add weight over time, and corrode. You'll get water from loose rivets as it is, overtime.
I see guys constantly in these tiny boat builds pouring foam directly over the rivets in the bottom of the boat, those rivets can/will leak into the foam and you will never know it either. Seems to me a membrane should be used to isolate the pour foam from the bottom of the boat?? Tyvek???
What's the thickness of the aluminum you used for the subfloor? Did you consider until now using Cellular PVC sheets? They are cheaper and have positive buoyancy.
And yes, it does make for a self personal homemade DIY, Home hand made cheaper fishing boat, ,as I think about it, the titling of the,, Bass boat, it's kinda starting to sound a little bit burned out, there are other fish in the water, like blue gills,sun fish, all that pan fishing, perch, the array of catfish, and all your lake salmon and your ocean spiece, you folks know, what ever your fever and flavor might be, some of us are more hell bent than others, it all depends on your mood, but that brand name,, UNDERGROUND ,,BATTERY, And the Elco electric motor is putting out some perty good impressiveness ,and the bms electronics system is showing perty good as well,
Pink & Green foam (extruded polystyrene) are closed cell foams. Some of the two part expanding flotation foams are closed cell, some or open cell. Closed cell foam won't absorb water, where open cell will...similar to a sponge. A lot of the spray can products (e.g. Great Stuff) are open cell. Original Gorilla Glue is closed cell. Hope this is helpful. I would have found out if the floatation foam was closed cell or not, and if it was, just seal the side wall void you were concerned about with original Gorilla Glue...it's waterproof and remains somewhat flexible
@@fireantfishing You can put a small amount of original Gorilla Glue in a medicine cup and add a drop or two of water...doesn't take much. Next stir it until it becomes cream colored. It will then expand into a foam like Great Stuff crack sealer. Be sure to wear gloves though...it's impossible to get off your hands!!!
Dang, you have to rip all that foam out. Could you have just put silicone along the edge of that side rib which could have held water from going down the side into the foam? My other question is why do people put foam under the deck floor and not along the length of the hull side?
I have been watching a lot of these boat videos, and taking the moment to stop and think about what was brought to your mind, and the braking down the understanding of the basic science it most likely will make a big difference, and then with all you video people making these videos on the so-called John boat, because as you folks are going through the effort of your preferred remodeling rebuild, and it looks like practically everyone is rebuilding their own personal john boat to some what the dam pattern, as far as the area that's gonna eventually end up being the finished walking surface ,and that in itself is downright plenty cool, because through out all of you,,," DO IT YOURSELFERS,,, Through out the country, Only God knows how many john boats have been rebuilt, not just a few dozen, but most likely a few hundred or a few thousand boats, and to stop and think about it, in one way of thinking about it, I don't know where the main John boat factory is and it probably doesn't matter, but when they finish their so-called set pattern of 3,4 seating arrangement, that's ok ,if that's the way you want to leave it, but for the most part for what I have been seeing, the factory basic pattern doesn't give that factory not much respect, for the most of the fishing enthusiastic fishermen sports people who are discovering the motivation to summoning up the be creative and become a Do it yourselfer , I think that's making for a much bigger society of fishing sports people, women as well,
Melts almost instantly! Put a 1 1/2 in h square piece in gas yesterday. Melted away in half in 30 seconds. Thats why pink foam, polystyrene, is not coast guard approved.
As a hobbyist of table top gaming..you could make a hot wire setup to cut your own custom foam board thickness..than you could truely have a solid tight floor..good videos bro!!!
i may have tried to put a drain thru the pour foam. could maybe seal the lower edge of the longitudinal "hat" section with aluminum duct tape or 5200 sealant? great vid's keep them coming. i am watching yours and michaels (TBN). i have a bass tracker project this fall. i may start a channel to add to the confusion.
To start I did not read all the comments that said. Why could you not put in drain tubing to the middle and then put in the urethane foam , paint over the foam with a urethane or silicone coating, then problem fixed. Or Grove out drain channels then the coating, only needs to be 3mils thick.
So what is best for a V hull? Wouldn't the pink foam sit flat with the hull? Seems there would be a gap from the pink foam the closer it gets to center, since the v doesn't equate to flat flooring. What do you do to flatten it out? I hunt with some big boys, and worried about the subfloor not being able to handle the weight over time. Sounded like pour foam was the answer until waterlogging became an issue.
Its not easy to own a mess up like that but its real! I respect it cause that's the kinda stuff that happens in a real build... man! I wish you would do like a 14ft V hull and show us first hand how to do the sub floor in a deep V✌🐟💪
@@fireantfishing I’ve got a 16’ Lund if you wanna build it while I’m deployed. Basically do whatever you want to it as long as I get it back after I get home.
I would have done two things. First I would have painted the entire boat with epoxy two-part paint. Second I would have sealed the space you showed with 5200 which would be there forever. Properly applied the epoxy paint would protect the Aluminum longer than you will be alive and the 5200 would completely eliminate the crack you showed.
what im planning to do is prep n seal the inside of the hull and the framing under the subfloor with anti rust prep then epoxy sealer then the pour foam under the sub floor n then reseal the floor once the panels are in
i don't understand why the foam at all ? What is the benefit of having foam fill the voids ? Thank you for your generous consideration, Sincerely .................. God bless
Good job on this! Working on my first j.b now and can’t wait to get it in the water however great informative dudes like you got me pulling nasty old foam out of my old 86 sea nymph! Thanks
I know I'm way behind, but If it was me, instead of tearing all that out use some clear flexible exterior waterproof caulking. Like for window framing. It seals out water, never gets ridged, and is flexible, and most of all, it's a lot cheaper...
Do those holes you drilled through the framing for the drain compromise the structural integrity of the boat? I don't know the exact specs for allowable hole sizes in the framing but I would think any hole more than 1/3rd the size of the framing member would compromise its strength.
Your probably correct, I did add smaller supports between the rib and angle. Also, this area becomes decked so there’s not a lot of force being applied to that specific area
Question: this might be a LOT more work than it's worth and a pain in the butt, but, when you are going to use pour foam in any given area, could you line the area first with something like a thick ply plastic? My thought is that if that would work, then you could pretty well seal off your pour foam so that it can't get soaked. I don't know if that will work or if it's worth it, but was just a quick thought I had.
@@fireantfishing yeah, my idea is getting like a big roll of thick ply plastic from Home Depot. Still cheap, but thicker ply would last longer, protecting the foam longer. Worth the experiment anyway! Lol
It's going to have water condensation just from water temp, humidity, and also water. To help fight corrosion you need to seal the aluminum. Zinc Chromate primer is used on aircraft before painting to fight corrosion and give the paint a good material to attached to. Research Zinc Chromatin Primer. I would have used it before painting the outside of the boat.
Good job you just destroyed your boat by weakening the main supports by drilling big holes in them there is a reason that the manufacturer designed the supports the way they are
I was thinking the same when watching, pretty sure I would have went that route of using silicone as well, but props to you for doing what you thought was right
In the beginning of a super tight budget build on my own 10foot alumacraft, not exactly sure how I wanna build it yet but def getten some ideas from you and ofcoarse the TBN channel aswell!! Also do you know how I can I become a member of the TBN?? 🤔
No, there is another opening on the bottom inside of the channel that I am unable to get to. Plus, that just makes more work in the end. Adding the pink foam is pretty quick and easy
Thanks for the video. I admire your determination and work ethic. I think I might have run light Gator Skin up the floor onto the gunels, but only since Mike Lopez mentioned that as an application I saw recently. Nice looking framing.
I would have put a piece of aluminum over that gap on the top side, filled it with foam and ran a bead of 5200 along the seem on the gun wall so water couldn’t get in there.
Would you have torn out all that foam?
Good call, safe bet. Idk if I would’ve had the heart to tear it out but i respect you for goin with the right way. I see the sense in it.
Same here. I probably wouldn't have torn it out, but that said I have a flat bottom and I took all the foam out from under the deck because it was waterlogged.
I wouldn't have tore it out maybe cover with aluminum and use panelbond to seal the sides to keep water from getting in there
Great stuff man. I do not think I would have torn it out. I am a novice at that but a question please. Could you use the 1/4" thick fan fold insulation board to build up that depth issue so the plywood would rest again on foam? Thanks so much for the videos!
Sheet the sides with aluminum as well and 4200 it at the edge of the floor, water problem solved and fill void with foam ie finish the sides up, great lookin boat and nice job 👍
Ya'll bass boat boys always trying to build a water-tight submarine.... I love ya'll! throw some flex seal in it and SEND IT!!!!
Make sure you have a screen door in it too!
Dang....I didn't even consider the flex seal! Spray and pray
That little gap is why I'm using XPS foam for everything. Fuk it. I have redone several boats and all pour foam does is suck up water, add weight over time, and corrode. You'll get water from loose rivets as it is, overtime.
very true. I love the pink foam
I see guys constantly in these tiny boat builds pouring foam directly over the rivets in the bottom of the boat, those rivets can/will leak into the foam and you will never know it either. Seems to me a membrane should be used to isolate the pour foam from the bottom of the boat?? Tyvek???
What's the thickness of the aluminum you used for the subfloor? Did you consider until now using Cellular PVC sheets? They are cheaper and have positive buoyancy.
What is the pink foam? Where to get it. Can you link in the video for the newbs
Is that 1/8" or 1/16" thick angle aluminum
1/16
I hope you're getting enough money from RUclips, total ad run time for my view was longer than your video
ha, no where near enough
And yes, it does make for a self personal homemade DIY,
Home hand made cheaper fishing boat, ,as I think about it, the titling of the,,
Bass boat, it's kinda starting to sound a little bit burned out, there are other fish in the water, like blue gills,sun fish, all that pan fishing, perch, the array of catfish, and all your lake salmon and your ocean spiece, you folks know, what ever your fever and flavor might be, some of us are more hell bent than others, it all depends on your mood, but that brand name,,
UNDERGROUND ,,BATTERY,
And the Elco electric motor is putting out some perty good impressiveness ,and the bms electronics system is showing perty good as well,
I appreciate all the info without being over dramatic and annoying
Pink & Green foam (extruded polystyrene) are closed cell foams. Some of the two part expanding flotation foams are closed cell, some or open cell. Closed cell foam won't absorb water, where open cell will...similar to a sponge. A lot of the spray can products (e.g. Great Stuff) are open cell. Original Gorilla Glue is closed cell. Hope this is helpful.
I would have found out if the floatation foam was closed cell or not, and if it was, just seal the side wall void you were concerned about with original Gorilla Glue...it's waterproof and remains somewhat flexible
The foam used in the boat is all closed cell 👍👍 I was unaware of the gorilla glue though
@@fireantfishing You can put a small amount of original Gorilla Glue in a medicine cup and add a drop or two of water...doesn't take much. Next stir it until it becomes cream colored. It will then expand into a foam like Great Stuff crack sealer. Be sure to wear gloves though...it's impossible to get off your hands!!!
Dang, you have to rip all that foam out. Could you have just put silicone along the edge of that side rib which could have held water from going down the side into the foam?
My other question is why do people put foam under the deck floor and not along the length of the hull side?
I have been watching a lot of these boat videos, and taking the moment to stop and think about what was brought to your mind, and the braking down the understanding of the basic science it most likely will make a big difference, and then with all you video people making these videos on the so-called
John boat, because as you folks are going through the effort of your preferred remodeling rebuild, and it looks like practically everyone is rebuilding their own personal john boat to some what the dam pattern, as far as the area that's gonna eventually end up being the finished walking surface ,and that in itself is downright plenty cool, because through out all of you,,," DO IT YOURSELFERS,,,
Through out the country, Only God knows how many john boats have been rebuilt, not just a few dozen, but most likely a few hundred or a few thousand boats, and to stop and think about it, in one way of thinking about it, I don't know where the main John boat factory is and it probably doesn't matter, but when they finish their so-called set pattern of 3,4 seating arrangement, that's ok ,if that's the way you want to leave it, but for the most part for what I have been seeing, the factory basic pattern doesn't give that factory not much respect, for the most of the fishing enthusiastic fishermen sports people who are discovering the motivation to summoning up the be creative and become a Do it yourselfer , I think that's making for a much bigger society of fishing sports people, women as well,
Pink foam is good but green is even better if you can get it. Expanded vs Extruded.
Really? I have never seen the green stuff. I'll have to check that out
@@fireantfishing look up Kingspan, it's made for commercial foundations in underground applications.
I’ve heard that pink foam will melt when in contact with gas. So be careful when refueling.
Melts almost instantly! Put a 1 1/2 in h square piece in gas yesterday. Melted away in half in 30 seconds. Thats why pink foam, polystyrene, is not coast guard approved.
I don’t get using insulation for subfloor, won’t it flake or absorb water?
Depends on the hull, but really it comes down to the easiest place to put foam if your going to add foam
As a hobbyist of table top gaming..you could make a hot wire setup to cut your own custom foam board thickness..than you could truely have a solid tight floor..good videos bro!!!
can you message me about this on Instagram or Facebook?
i may have tried to put a drain thru the pour foam. could maybe seal the lower edge of the longitudinal "hat" section with aluminum duct tape or 5200 sealant? great vid's keep them coming. i am watching yours and michaels (TBN). i have a bass tracker project this fall. i may start a channel to add to the confusion.
Thank you! Do it!
To start I did not read all the comments that said. Why could you not put in drain tubing to the middle and then put in the urethane foam , paint over the foam with a urethane or silicone coating, then problem fixed. Or Grove out drain channels then the coating, only needs to be 3mils thick.
The water could have come in through the back side
So what is best for a V hull? Wouldn't the pink foam sit flat with the hull? Seems there would be a gap from the pink foam the closer it gets to center, since the v doesn't equate to flat flooring. What do you do to flatten it out? I hunt with some big boys, and worried about the subfloor not being able to handle the weight over time. Sounded like pour foam was the answer until waterlogging became an issue.
Its not easy to own a mess up like that but its real! I respect it cause that's the kinda stuff that happens in a real build... man! I wish you would do like a 14ft V hull and show us first hand how to do the sub floor in a deep V✌🐟💪
Thanks Luke, hopefully one day I will have the opportunity!
@@fireantfishing I’ve got a 16’ Lund if you wanna build it while I’m deployed. Basically do whatever you want to it as long as I get it back after I get home.
great, now all that pour foam is blocking water drainage and keeps standing water in the voids. .....nevermind I spoke to soon, you fixed it lol
I would have done two things. First I would have painted the entire boat with epoxy two-part paint. Second I would have sealed the space you showed with 5200 which would be there forever. Properly applied the epoxy paint would protect the Aluminum longer than you will be alive and the 5200 would completely eliminate the crack you showed.
one year after you commented this and it just saved my subfloor build, good man.
Thanks for posting this video you gave me an idea how to redo the subfloor on my 1750 jon boat without spending a fortune.
Excellent idea on the pool noodles to protect the paint on the gunnel. I am notorious for scratching that up while building
It happens!! Haha thanks guys
Hell of good videos, keep em coming. Glad you went with the pink foam for that that type of boat
Thanks 👍
what im planning to do is prep n seal the inside of the hull and the framing under the subfloor with anti rust prep then epoxy sealer then the pour foam under the sub floor n then reseal the floor once the panels are in
i don't understand why the foam at all ? What is the benefit of having foam fill the voids ?
Thank you for your generous consideration,
Sincerely ..................
God bless
I don't see what the big problem with the gap by the rivet just put some clear silicode
Good job on this! Working on my first j.b now and can’t wait to get it in the water however great informative dudes like you got me pulling nasty old foam out of my old 86 sea nymph! Thanks
I live in Ga ellenwood will any sheet foam work .where you fish mostly. We apreciate all you share.
Hey Craig, your not too far! Closed cell foam, I get mine at Home Depot. I mostly fish on the East Side of Atlanta
We gonna get our boats squared away just taking longer than we like. I'll reply more.I fish Henry co. Res the most
I know I'm way behind, but If it was me, instead of tearing all that out use some clear flexible exterior waterproof caulking. Like for window framing. It seals out water, never gets ridged, and is flexible, and most of all, it's a lot cheaper...
Yeah I almost did. The problem is there is another gap or opening to the foam on the inside of that hollow channel. There was no way I could fill that
Do those holes you drilled through the framing for the drain compromise the structural integrity of the boat? I don't know the exact specs for allowable hole sizes in the framing but I would think any hole more than 1/3rd the size of the framing member would compromise its strength.
Your probably correct, I did add smaller supports between the rib and angle. Also, this area becomes decked so there’s not a lot of force being applied to that specific area
I would have just ran a bead of 5200 down yhe gap and left the pour foam
Thought about it. If it was my boat, possibly would have. I feel better about it this way though
I think you made the right call. I'll be doing the same with my 14x48
Me too, can't wait to see it!
Damn it Man!!! These are fun to watch. I really appreciate the creativeness behind the builds! Keep up the great work!
Thanks Tom!
Question: this might be a LOT more work than it's worth and a pain in the butt, but, when you are going to use pour foam in any given area, could you line the area first with something like a thick ply plastic? My thought is that if that would work, then you could pretty well seal off your pour foam so that it can't get soaked. I don't know if that will work or if it's worth it, but was just a quick thought I had.
Thats not a bad idea, and it did cross my mind. I thought about using a grocery bag or something along those lines
@@fireantfishing yeah, my idea is getting like a big roll of thick ply plastic from Home Depot. Still cheap, but thicker ply would last longer, protecting the foam longer. Worth the experiment anyway! Lol
@@shanepeter1616 Thats a good idea as well, maybe we can experiment with that one day!
@@fireantfishing I'm game!!
Ridgeness is as in STIFFNESS,
It's going to have water condensation just from water temp, humidity, and also water.
To help fight corrosion you need to seal the aluminum.
Zinc Chromate primer is used on aircraft before painting to fight corrosion and give the paint
a good material to attached to.
Research Zinc Chromatin Primer. I would have used it before painting the outside of the boat.
I wrapped my pink foam in contractor bags and taped them tight. Hoping it keeps them waterproof
Good idea
Good job you just destroyed your boat by weakening the main supports by drilling big holes in them there is a reason that the manufacturer designed the supports the way they are
Good info man I overthink things all the time if it makes you more comfortable taking the pour foam out rock it
Thanks Dave, I felt like it was the right choice
Silicone the gaps and keep the pour foam? Your thoughts?
I thought about that as well. Had I thought about it before pouring the foam I possibly would have tried.
I was thinking the same when watching, pretty sure I would have went that route of using silicone as well, but props to you for doing what you thought was right
In the beginning of a super tight budget build on my own 10foot alumacraft, not exactly sure how I wanna build it yet but def getten some ideas from you and ofcoarse the TBN channel aswell!! Also do you know how I can I become a member of the TBN?? 🤔
If you did that again could you weld that seam without damaging the paint on the other side?
No, there is another opening on the bottom inside of the channel that I am unable to get to. Plus, that just makes more work in the end. Adding the pink foam is pretty quick and easy
mega props for giving micheal lopez credit. real AF.
yessir
Your using inch and a half aluminum. Can you please tell me the thickness. Thank you
Noob question- so the foam is for extra stability of the frame and maybe also to help float it a bit to get you to shore if your sinking?
I liked the video good job
The cracks he was worrying about he could have used a good chalking to seal it, there's a lot of good marine sealers out there
Where did you buy your aluminum sheets from and what size and thickness are the sheets.
Thanks for the video. I admire your determination and work ethic. I think I might have run light Gator Skin up the floor onto the gunels, but only since Mike Lopez mentioned that as an application I saw recently. Nice looking framing.
Thanks for the full detail and insight. Great info and top video.
What thickness is your aluminum sheeting for the floor?
.090
Does .063 aluminum work for flooring if the foam board supports it, plus having hydro turf on it.
What is the thickness of the angle and the floor?
1/16
Sheeting is .090
Where did you get the sheet of aluminum for the floor?
Yes, ridgitity is a word
Thanks Wayne!
I have the exact same boat!
Nice! I like this hull, aside from the bow area. It can make things tricky
12lb Bass proof 🤣
biggin's!
I would have put a piece of aluminum over that gap on the top side, filled it with foam and ran a bead of 5200 along the seem on the gun wall so water couldn’t get in there.
Yeah that would have been a good option as well