Caleb is the quintessential pro. I am the quintessential doofus. Without his guidances, I would have never attempted this mod. Thanks Brownells. Thanks Caleb.
Thanks for the video, I recently purchased a DDM4v9 , and quickly discovered that my iron sites would not co-witness to The HWS without adjusting windage all the way to one side, after watching your video I decided to loosen the hand guard and basically reinstall using the star pattern as shown paying close attention to the alignment with the muzzle end of the barrel which solved my problem , now everything lines up perfectly. Thanks again
There are a lot of folks showing you how to do stuff on the internet, but I like watching you best. You use the best parts and tools and have the best haircut.
What a marvelous how-to video. Multiple points were important for me. The receiver rod - had never seen one before, and after all my struggles trying to secure a firearm for barrel/handguard work . . . This hand guard is a MUCH smarter design than that one that came with my extra expensive Wilson Combat rifle (pre-COVID). That barrel nut had to be torqued a ridiculous amount of get the next opening for the gas tube to line up.
Thanks! If you want to be technical 90 degrees would be correct, but honestly it makes absolutely no difference here. The torque range for an AR15 barrel nut is approximately 30-85ft/lbs, which is a very wide range and we are usually torqueing non-indexing nuts about 40ft/lbs, the difference that an inline vs. 90 degree wrench gives us at an extreme case is no more than a few ft/lbs. (Other factors play into this as well, such as distance from driver to tool contact point on work piece, etc.)
Excellent tutorial as always. Thank you for reminding everyone that when it comes to Loctite, a little goes a long way. Same can be said about anti-seize compound. Also not to over torque. Interesting how smiths seem to be split on the position of torque wrench on barrel nut wrench. Some say 90, some say in line. I have done both and haven't seen a noticeable difference.
There really isn't an argument about barrel nut wrench position. The reason to put it at 90 is to prevent over torquing. When you put it in line, you're extending the torque wrench leverage and pivot point. You're essentially adding leverage and working outside the torque wrenches calibrated length. When the wrench is at 90, you are applying torque at a similar length.
@@maddoxinc1642 both work about the same. Whether you are at 90 or in line, the distance between the center of the nut and center of the drive on the torque wrench does not change. So either way you are applying more torque than indicated by the wrench. There is a simple formula for calculating the torque applied. Then again, the torque range on the barrel nut is so broad that it's difficult to make a mistake.
@@unclebob540i3 I don't think it matters to be honest. That barrel nut gets hot and cold so much that it'll loose spec anyways. Just get it close enough and it should be good.
My Cross Machine Tool upper left a few degrees of wiggle between the tabs on the rear plate. I did have to use a scope mount across the rail to line everything up before tightening it down.
You have to install that qd point over one of the existing holes for it to be usable. This makes all the other points unusable, unless you buy more of the qd points, and they are never in stock.
How about an upper receiver like the Aero Enhanced. It's creates a way more rigid and solid connection. Essentially creating a monolithic upper. And the handguard just slides on.
Haha I spotted that he had the wrench on there wrong. He had it oriented for loosening the bolt, that was why he had to switch it. It's an easy mistake to make. Basin wrenches for installing faucets and even pipe wrenches works the same way, where you have to flip it to make it pull the other direction. My UTG SuperSlim Pro uses a similar proprietary barrel nut wrench. You should take some brake cleaner or acetone, with a paper towel and degrease both the male and female threads. Hardware usually has a little bit of oil on it from the factory and degreasing will make the threadlocker work better.
If you want the barrel nut to loosen over time use anti-seize compound. Its in the name "anti-seize" meaning easy to take apart again. Unless you plan to change barrels regularly you actually want the barrel nut to seize so it doesn't back off and come loose.
THIS is why I will tend to always say an AR is better than an AK. My AK has a cracked front trunnion. I can’t fix it myself and not a single local shop wants to touch it. I’d have to pay an FFL about $100 to get it sent out and then about another $100 to get it sent back AFTER I pay someone a few hundred to do the work AFTER I source a front trunnion to swap. My AR-15s, I am fully confident I can build and maintain/repair them in my own home with simple tools albeit custom/proprietary. But at least I don’t need rivets and a press. 😂
Because seasoning a thread will remove any burs from the machining process. While it sounds like a good idea. In this case you actually benefit from not seasoning the treads as the tolerance will be tighter and it will help prevent the nut from backing off. You want the nut to go on tight.
@@ericward9159 Yes. It holds better because there is still grit between the fresh threads from the machining process. The logic applies to all threads. The more times you thread something on a tread the more it wears in requiring less forces to tread back off. Seasoning is not your friend in this situation. If the barrel nut is torqued properly no grease, oil, thread locker or anti seize is required.
So if im swapping my old quad rail for this, do i need to mess with the gas system at all? Couldnt i just undo the 4 screws, take off the quad rail, then put the mfr right on, then retighten the 4 screws?
What about the picatinny gap you had? That's unfortunate considering how much you pay for this handguard and the way it mounts but doesn't close all the way at the top rail where it meets upper.
awesome content very educational: what ever happened to the larger inner diameter Mlok handguards. the newer slim mlok handguards suck. especially for those of us with a larger grip
Define "larger" because I lot of manufacfures have "SD" type handguards that are able to tuck a 1.5" dia suppressor inside making their OD* larger by default.
These handguards are extremely difficult to be aligned up/down left/right with the stripped upper. Even if you use a tool or a scope mount to bridge the upper and handguard. If you are using ironsights you will never have them aligned enough to where the rear peep sight is in the middle of the sight. Always end up either way to the left or to the right.
This is specifically about the handguard, we have covered the how to properly install barrels and check headspace in other videos specific to that topic as well, the most in-depth guide can be found in our AR build series available on our webpage.
@@brownells Ok WOW Ty for the Rapid Response. Perhaps the in Depth how to in the separate video is fine. But the Mention of the Necessity of in this Video is an Entirely different Matter! Link to that other video please? Ty J
@@longrangeautist6117 well actually I did get my answer hand delivered to me without searching the website, all in 5 minutes at the same time wasted 5 minutes talking to you LOL.
Caleb is the quintessential pro. I am the quintessential doofus. Without his guidances, I would have never attempted this mod.
Thanks Brownells. Thanks Caleb.
Thanks for the video, I recently purchased a DDM4v9 , and quickly discovered that my iron sites would not co-witness to The HWS without adjusting windage all the way to one side, after watching your video I decided to loosen the hand guard and basically reinstall using the star pattern as shown paying close attention to the alignment with the muzzle end of the barrel which solved my problem , now everything lines up perfectly. Thanks again
There are a lot of folks showing you how to do stuff on the internet, but I like watching you best. You use the best parts and tools and have the best haircut.
Man I love Daniels lock up system.
Caleb can build an AR in 5min 30 secs flat, from the aluminum stock to hammer forging the barrel
Without ever bursting into cussing at any point. A near impossible task.
That handguard would look good in Wolf Gray Aluma-Hyde
These videos are so relaxing… gun asmr
What a marvelous how-to video. Multiple points were important for me. The receiver rod - had never seen one before, and after all my struggles trying to secure a firearm for barrel/handguard work . . . This hand guard is a MUCH smarter design than that one that came with my extra expensive Wilson Combat rifle (pre-COVID). That barrel nut had to be torqued a ridiculous amount of get the next opening for the gas tube to line up.
Thanks! If you want to be technical 90 degrees would be correct, but honestly it makes absolutely no difference here. The torque range for an AR15 barrel nut is approximately 30-85ft/lbs, which is a very wide range and we are usually torqueing non-indexing nuts about 40ft/lbs, the difference that an inline vs. 90 degree wrench gives us at an extreme case is no more than a few ft/lbs. (Other factors play into this as well, such as distance from driver to tool contact point on work piece, etc.)
Excellent tutorial as always. Thank you for reminding everyone that when it comes to Loctite, a little goes a long way. Same can be said about anti-seize compound. Also not to over torque. Interesting how smiths seem to be split on the position of torque wrench on barrel nut wrench. Some say 90, some say in line. I have done both and haven't seen a noticeable difference.
There really isn't an argument about barrel nut wrench position. The reason to put it at 90 is to prevent over torquing. When you put it in line, you're extending the torque wrench leverage and pivot point. You're essentially adding leverage and working outside the torque wrenches calibrated length. When the wrench is at 90, you are applying torque at a similar length.
@@maddoxinc1642 both work about the same. Whether you are at 90 or in line, the distance between the center of the nut and center of the drive on the torque wrench does not change. So either way you are applying more torque than indicated by the wrench. There is a simple formula for calculating the torque applied. Then again, the torque range on the barrel nut is so broad that it's difficult to make a mistake.
@@unclebob540i3 I don't think it matters to be honest. That barrel nut gets hot and cold so much that it'll loose spec anyways. Just get it close enough and it should be good.
@@maddoxinc1642 I agree, spec is 30-80 lbft. That is a huge ballpark, as long as the barrel nut is within that range there won't be an issue.
Nicely done. Wish this had been available when I installed this handguard.
My Cross Machine Tool upper left a few degrees of wiggle between the tabs on the rear plate. I did have to use a scope mount across the rail to line everything up before tightening it down.
I love this channel! You guys are what inspired me to build my own! Thank you for you knowledge! Definitely learned a thing or two!
Please start a class action suit when you get the boot!!!! Love your channel a lot 💗!!!
Amazing video! Now I know some more about choosing tools for building/upgrading an AR-15. Thanks for the demo!
You have to install that qd point over one of the existing holes for it to be usable. This makes all the other points unusable, unless you buy more of the qd points, and they are never in stock.
And add a rag to the needed tool list.
Other than that minor oversight, Great How-to video.
Fantastic, Caleb! Thanks for posting.
How about an upper receiver like the Aero Enhanced. It's creates a way more rigid and solid connection. Essentially creating a monolithic upper. And the handguard just slides on.
Thanks!
That rail is a MFR to get on.
Nicely done. Thank you. And nice manicure.
So I do have a question about the handrail. What is the part number for the one used on AR-10?
Haha I spotted that he had the wrench on there wrong. He had it oriented for loosening the bolt, that was why he had to switch it. It's an easy mistake to make. Basin wrenches for installing faucets and even pipe wrenches works the same way, where you have to flip it to make it pull the other direction. My UTG SuperSlim Pro uses a similar proprietary barrel nut wrench.
You should take some brake cleaner or acetone, with a paper towel and degrease both the male and female threads. Hardware usually has a little bit of oil on it from the factory and degreasing will make the threadlocker work better.
Clean is the way 👍
I'm still learning, so just asking to understand; why are you not using anti-seize compound when you secure the barrel nut to the upper receiver?
If you want the barrel nut to loosen over time use anti-seize compound. Its in the name "anti-seize" meaning easy to take apart again. Unless you plan to change barrels regularly you actually want the barrel nut to seize so it doesn't back off and come loose.
My 6.5 Creedmore DD5 V5 did not come with the mentioned tools. Wish you would have given specs on these tools.
can you do a video showing how to replace the MFR rail with the DDM4 rail ?
Will y’all be making a rumble channel soon?
Don't plan on it, we redesigned our webpage to be more content focused and are hard launching it soon.
@@brownells Which deleted all my lists in my profile I had made over the last 15 years. Bummer.
Thanks bro 😊
Wish the mk18 uppers were in stock from you...
THIS is why I will tend to always say an AR is better than an AK.
My AK has a cracked front trunnion. I can’t fix it myself and not a single local shop wants to touch it. I’d have to pay an FFL about $100 to get it sent out and then about another $100 to get it sent back AFTER I pay someone a few hundred to do the work AFTER I source a front trunnion to swap.
My AR-15s, I am fully confident I can build and maintain/repair them in my own home with simple tools albeit custom/proprietary. But at least I don’t need rivets and a press. 😂
You forgot the most important tool of them all, a angle grinder because DD makes their low profile gas blocks impossible to remove from the factory
Do you have to worry about head spacing if the barrel comes with the barrel extension pre-installed?
Starting to look like a LaRue upper. Interesting.
That AT4 tho
Is there a reason why you didn't season the threads while installing the barrel nut?
Because seasoning a thread will remove any burs from the machining process. While it sounds like a good idea. In this case you actually benefit from not seasoning the treads as the tolerance will be tighter and it will help prevent the nut from backing off. You want the nut to go on tight.
@shanemartin92 so by not seasoning the threads on a barrel nut acts as a kinda "lock washer" in a way?
@@ericward9159 Yes. It holds better because there is still grit between the fresh threads from the machining process. The logic applies to all threads. The more times you thread something on a tread the more it wears in requiring less forces to tread back off. Seasoning is not your friend in this situation. If the barrel nut is torqued properly no grease, oil, thread locker or anti seize is required.
So if im swapping my old quad rail for this, do i need to mess with the gas system at all? Couldnt i just undo the 4 screws, take off the quad rail, then put the mfr right on, then retighten the 4 screws?
What about the picatinny gap you had? That's unfortunate considering how much you pay for this handguard and the way it mounts but doesn't close all the way at the top rail where it meets upper.
will the stock gas tube work ? or do you need to purchase a new gas tube and gas block?
awesome content very educational: what ever happened to the larger inner diameter Mlok handguards. the newer slim mlok handguards suck. especially for those of us with a larger grip
You might want to go with Aero if that's what you like.
@@Pyreleaf aero is garbage
The newer slim m lok handguards are fantastic. Lighter, more sleek, and they work better with hybrid/clamp style grips using a vertical foregrip.
@@KeepTheGates okay bud, you're a party of one with that opinion, but you do you 👍
Define "larger" because I lot of manufacfures have "SD" type handguards that are able to tuck a 1.5" dia suppressor inside making their OD* larger by default.
So with grease on the barrel nut this is considered a wet torque?
RUclips auto-subtitles seems to think your torque wrench wasn't made in America.
Can you reuse a gas block and gas tube from one bill to another?
Absolutely
Can we install this handguards to a DD MK18 ? Thank you
These handguards are extremely difficult to be aligned up/down left/right with the stripped upper. Even if you use a tool or a scope mount to bridge the upper and handguard. If you are using ironsights you will never have them aligned enough to where the rear peep sight is in the middle of the sight. Always end up either way to the left or to the right.
they dont align with the upper they align with the barrel nut. just like any other free float hand guard.
You are trying to align too early in the process, tighten down everything, back off half a turn then align and final torque.
@@CalebSavant He has spoken, I knew I was missing something. Still skeptical about these though. Went kac and never looked back.
@@mcaque no worries! Both are great setups. Can't go wrong with kac.
Why ball style allen wrench and what size please?
Ok so let’s talk about what’s going on in that open safe behind him there. Is that an AT4 rocket launcher??
will this install on the m4a1 r3 rifle?
This guys a proudboy 😮
Good vid, pos product
Hi,
You didn't mention or discuss anything about the Barrel Install Head Spacing??
Ty
This is specifically about the handguard, we have covered the how to properly install barrels and check headspace in other videos specific to that topic as well, the most in-depth guide can be found in our AR build series available on our webpage.
@@brownells Ok WOW Ty for the Rapid Response. Perhaps the in Depth how to in the separate video is fine. But the Mention of the Necessity of in this Video is an Entirely different Matter!
Link to that other video please?
Ty
J
@@allphaseelec5738 use spec parts and don't worry about it.
What QD studs do you recommend for the DD's QD points?
The answer is just use paracord and forget about qd
What size of hex wrench
No dimple? No pinned gas block?!
Will this handguard fit silencerco upper?
Yes
Upper receiver top rail doesn’t match up even with the hand guard top rail or am I just seeing shit?
Is this legal and morally ethical to watch such witchcraft?
Shhhhh
Straight to jail
I was wondering that myself...look out for the SS.
They are privileged over the rest of us peasants..
😂 go straight to RUclips jail. Do not pass Go, do not collect any money.
Do you guys have a Ruger precision rifle 6.5 barrel in stock.
Why do you retards ask questions like this instead of going to their website?
@@longrangeautist6117 why do you retards give a shit!
Lol. Good job, retard. You really showed me. Now you don’t have an answer AND you’re still a retard.
@@longrangeautist6117 well actually I did get my answer hand delivered to me without searching the website, all in 5 minutes at the same time wasted 5 minutes talking to you LOL.
Top rail of the hand guards a tad low compared to the upper and left to right is off
The height is flush, there is a bit of a gap but that is intended but it is because of that gap and the camera angle that the height looks off.
@@CalebSavant I call that an optical confusion.
@@dougdouglass1248 obstacle delusion
They named it the mothereffer? 🤣😭
Just remeber kids... If at first it don't fit?! Break out the Bastard File, and go to grinding! Get'r done!
I'm getting serial killer video from dude
You look just like Robbie rotten from lazy town same haircut and all 💀
Good video, but that handguard is too big.
DD would not send that out like tbat
Wow. Brutal comments🤣
That gap between the rail and upper bugs me
Dude used less grease on the gun than he did his hair.
Good. Stick with this stuff and forget the fru fru crap....
I sold my DDM4V7 because this handguard was so bad
Is it just me or does everything in this video look like it’s from 1970
I came up with an easier version. I think of all types of firearms/parts/accessories. Ugh I should’ve been an engineer
Install? Not on youtube for kids. Might have to consider content uploads to Rumble 😂
It'll be on our new website.
@@brownells When is the new website going live? Roy Hill mentioned last year on Gun Talk Radio that it should be live soon so just wondering when.
@@brownells I hope the new website is better. Irritating to only use 25% of my monitor as currently configured.
I noticed you didn't set the head space.