Metallic Paint Jobs with Spray Cans (Everything you NEED to know)
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2021
- There is a lot to know when painting with metallics, and some minor changes in the process can make a big difference in the end result. In this video we are going to discuss what you need to know about doing metallic paint jobs with spray cans. We cover a lot of material in the first 10 minutes of the video and then move on to a quick demo to show you how these principals are applied.
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Brad - don't be afraid to tell what we need to know, that's why we watch you!
Thanks Dan!
This channel is so inspiring, man. I’ve never painted a body before but I feel like I can confidently pull it off thanks to watching you do it. Thanks for these.
Thanks Blake. I’m glad you’re finding the videos helpful.
Dude, I've learned quite a few useful things from you. Definitely don't stop telling us how you do all this awesome stuff.
Hey Brad, Great video. Do what you do brother. Talk all you want. I'm a paint guy for a living and I learn things from you all the time. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you. I’m glad you find it useful.
Wow. No need to apologize. Hearing what you have to say is the most important part of these videos. Our goal here is to learn and if you talking is the best way to teach us something, then that's what you should do. I really appreciate your taking the time to make these videos and go over the problems we'll likely run into and - most importantly - learn what to do and what to avoid so that we don't have problems. And BTW, I really like that you use paints that regular people like us can buy at regular stores. This makes your lessons much more useful.
Thank you. I’m glad you’re finding my teaching style useful.
7:02 thank you for all the great explanation on the concepts, reasoning and backgrounds. I / we have learned a lot about rattle can paint jobs from your posts.
Thanks. I’m glad you found the information helpful.
Currently doing more Airbrush stuff but always watch you’re videos for advise cause it has helped so much in the past! Thank you as always Brad! 😃
Thank you
Dude talk as much as you want every time you open your mouth I either learn something or think of something I hadn't thought of before... Love your work 👽🖖
Thanks man. I’m glad you’re finding my stuff useful.
Great thorough explanation Brad, thanks so much. 🤙
Keep talking. You are answering my questions and concerns,,, 👍🎸
Glad to hear it; thanks Joe.
Absolutely first-rate instructional video, thank you.
Another great video man I love metallic finishes almost as much as a good stain
Thanks Richard
I’m doing my first kit build and first finishing this month. And I’m using Oxford nitrocellulose (British racing green). Thank you for this excellent video. It’s your talking and explanation as much (or even more) than your painting that is really helpful. Especially for first-timers. And those of us looking for the best possible results. I’m subscribed now, and looking forward to more videos.
Thanks; I’m glad you found it useful.
I appreciate all the information and tips Brad!
Thank you!
Thanks Jack
thanks Mr Angove for showing this.
great paint job.
Thanks Mat
Awesome video & well explained as always brad !! :)
Thanks Terry!
Love your channel! Just started my first project, really wish I would've saw this a day earlier 😅. I didn't realize how different metallics are to work with.
How does yours look?
Ooh metallic... shiny shiny. Love it. 😎😎
WOW love that blue..Im going to try and do this on one of my electric guitars 🎸🎸🎸👍👍✌
I'm excited to watch this one because of a couple of reasons. I live out here in the west in Calgary. That means that sometimes the brands available to you might not be so readily available to me. But I finally got my hands on some nitrocellulose lacquer ,and I have never sprayed metallics ye, but now it is time and I happen to have discovered Oxford guitar lacquer, and have a brand new shipment of about 3 aerosol cans, and 5 ir 6 various cans of regular products with which to learn gun spraying technique with. I hape the product is good, I am rarin to go, but I have a feeling I will be happier with my custom colour turquoise metallic paint job if I watch your video first! Thanks Brad, your videos are very informative so I guess I'll say, lets go!
Haha I’m in Edmonton. I doubt I have access to many paints that you don’t.
We all love the sound of your voice, Brad. No one should be saying, "Less talk more painting". I'm gonna need to look up the word "uh doo".
Just ungrateful people that get great quality content for free and still bitch and moan.
It’s “ado” haha
@@BradAngove How dieu you sleep! OH!
Jack ~'()'~
Today is a good day to die!
Thanks for the video. I am doing a guitar in this exact same colour. Although you make it look so easy!!
It’s always a little tougher than it looks, but practice really helps.
Awesome video!
Thank you
Really good video, thanks 😊
Thank you
This is very very helpful. Thanks so much!
Glad to hear it
Terima kasih banyak atas informasi dan tutorialnya Mr. BA. Sukses untuk Anda.
Very consice, and very informative. This, my friend, is good content
Thank you
Finished a strat kit from solo music gear with lake placid blue and a clear gloss. I am impressed with how it has turned out. I might have to go back and lightly sand the finish to make it smoother.
Glad it turned out well.
Hey Brad, long time no "talk" lol.. Anyway, great video as usual! As you know, I've been a sub'r for a while & honestly I've learned soooooooo much from your videos. I don't mind the long winded nature (as long as it's informative).
Thanks Adam. I do try to keep it informative if I can haha.
Brad even though you paint guitars and I tend to paint cars, your explanations are among the most careful and clear I've come across. Thanks for that. One confusion for me, and I'm sure many DIY dilettantes, is the paint types and terms. I'd love to hear you step through this in some methodical way. For example, what are the differences when you say Nitrocellulose Lacquer, versus Acrylic Laquer, versus solvent based acrylics??? Differences between Filler, Primer, Putty Primer, Surface Primer, Sealer. And then different two-pack paints (which I don't go for because of the extra complexity when you don't have a perfect shop environment). cheers, Alex
Cheers Alex. I have a few videos about that stuff and comparing various paint types. I should revisit those topics though.
I wish I would of watched this before I started using metal finish paints. Very informative…
Hopefully it helps going forward.
Great video
Thank you
Thank you for explaining it so thoroughly Brad. I'm sorry for the ones that already know everything and hate to listen to you talk but people like me I need to hear those kind of things so if the ones that are more experienced but please have patience with me and people like me we sure appreciate it. Thanks again Brad as always I sure do appreciate what you're doing! And it just so happens I'm getting ready to paint metallic so this video is here from my eyes to a lot of things that I just did not know about it would have been a disaster without you LOL
Thank you; I appreciate that.
@@BradAngove I do have a serious question Brad, you explained very well how to paint one surface at a time. How about painting a guitar which is several services front side and back. That is what I was just getting ready to do the paint arrived wasn't just a week ago this past Monday I have a sitting right here by my chair so it was cool that I would find this because I was headed for hell in a rattle can more or less I guess. But how would I go about painting a guitar body would I do one service at a time keeping them as flat as possible or can I go ahead and lightly paint each surface and maybe put an extra coat, fourth coat, spraying it almost but not quite like a mist it the same speed and everything that you were going in distance would that be okay I don't have a scrap body to try it out on but and I don't want to waste the paint is too expensive. If you could answer that for me Brad that would be great buddy, cheers to you man.
Again I used talk to text and I don't have time to proofread it so I hope everything makes sense to you I have to get me one of those styluses I guess they're called because these pickles I call fingers are hard to type with. People cannot believe I play guitar with the size of fingers that I have LOL
Can you hang the guitar or make a small spray stand like mine?
@@BradAngove yes I can do both I made one after your pattern with PVC pipe and a two buy two piece of wood. Would I be able to just spray it and turn it and then spray the sides it's up and then turn it spray the back turn it spray the side it's up and use thin coats? Is that what you're thinking?
Hey Brad, can I say "Less talk More Rock"? LOL. Great video. As a former automotive painter, your methods for painting metallics are spot on. I always called that first coat of clear a "Tac Coat". Not sure if you're heard that one or not..
Thanks Jeffrey. Yes, I typically call it that as well. That was the terminology we used for the first coat of poly clear for automotive work. I hear that those aren’t necessary in that context anymore due to technology advances. Any thoughts on that?
@@BradAngove Last time I sprayed cars was 1994. I was spraying Glasurit Acrylic Urethane. It was a great paint back then, but so dangerous to our health. Everything here in California now is water based pint. I have no experience with it. I've used water based paint for wood on a guitar build. It's ok. The last project I just finished a few weeks ago, I rebuilt an old telecaster kit and sprayed Behr Poly, using colorshift pearls from Dip Your Car over a blue base coat. The finish is fantastic.
No wonder I had so much trouble, as a kid, getting a candy apple paint job to look decent on my model cars! :)
Haha the hardest of paint jobs.
Another great video, Learning a Lot from you!
Could you make a video regarding painting without any kind of spray? I have seen some about staining, but none on painting with a brush or something like that
I’ve done a couple on painting by hand, brush on gloss, etc. in fact I think the entire spalted maple Les Paul build that I did a series on was painted with no spray.
@@BradAngove thank you, I will search for It again
Wicked! I have a can of metallic nitro I'm going to use but have been little apprehensive. I played with it a minute and it seems tricky af.
There are definitely some nuances haha.
My latest build will be with Oxford. I’m going to do sonic blue on a Jaguar body. I will try metallics next time.
Sounds awesome
Hey brad! Excellent videos!
I have a question, do you need to sand the metallic paint before applying clear coat?
Also, could you make a video on how to achieve the fender "dark knight" finish? Id love to do that on my guitar!
Cheers mate! Keep posting these amazing videos!!
Don’t sand the metallic; it won’t look right. I’ll take a look for that finish.
@@BradAngove awesome mate! Thank you very much!
Great video! Do you let each coat of Metallic flash before the next coat? Also, is the clear sanding wet or dry and at what grit?
Yes I let it flash. The sanding depends on what I’m painting. If it’s wood I usually dry sand.
Hey Brad!
Just finished a few coats of Lake Placid Blue Metallic and it looks great!
The surface is a little rough in some places. Should I move on to the clear, give it a little protection with a few coats and then sand the surface level before the final coats of clear?
Yes; that’s the right idea in my view.
I used to paint plastic model car's when I was a kid. I could never stop the fisheye but my metalics looked good. Now I think I would try lacquer instead of enamel. Also I'd clean better. We thought dish soap was good but we had no tack cloth. Not a lack of sanding because the details would disappear. Very thin coats. Jeremy was better.
Hey Brad, I came here after your new unboxing video :) One question, does the direction from which you spray metallic lacquer have any impact on how the flakes look? Thinking here of spraying a guitar body where you turn and flip it around and spray from many different angles due to the shape of the piece. Great work, love the channel!
It can have some nominal impact, particularly if your overlap isn’t perfect. Spraying in many directions can actually be a good thing and can help it look more even.
@@BradAngove amazing. Thank you 👍
Great videos and please continue talking - you have so useful tipps that others usually leave out.
I have a couple of questions for my first respray of my new bass (of course orange and metallic 😎):
- Do you use an orbital sander also on guitar bodies? I fear the edges of the body would be easily sanded down to wood when doing it with the sander. Especially on slab body guitars!?
- Someone told me to use white primer with light metallic paints. But I like the idea of using regular orange color first after this vid. How long would you let that poly spray cure? Would 48h be enough?
- Finally - do you wait 10-15min between each layer of the metallic coat? How would I notice that I have „enough“ coats?
Thanks again for your excellent videos and really looking forward to your response.
I use an orbital on guitars. I just don’t sand over the corners with it. I would still use the 10-15 minutes usually for recoating metallics. You should be able to see if you have full coverage. That’s all you need for coats. Probably 2-3.
Lots of really helpful tips here, thank you so much for this video! Liked and subbed!
I'm working on some drum shells and I normally only stain, but I wanted to learn to do a nice metallic this time around.
In your experience, are there any times when you can use just the primer to influence the final metallic color and skip the base coat of regular paint altogether and still get good results?
If you’re using a tinted primer you can get away with it sometimes.
@@BradAngove I had used a dark grey primer because I liked how the metallic sat on a sample but when it came time to do the shells, I couldn't get a uniform grey for the life of me. I'll try a base coat of paint before the metallic like you advised. Thank you so much for the reply! 🙏🏻
I hope your paint job goes well.
Great advice thanks
So what colour would you use for a purple rain met?
🤔
You would have to check what options they have available on the site. They keep expanding it.
Having seen hundred of hours from car guys finally found all of the answers here
Glad I could help
Just a few things that I was hoping to clarify. How long do you let the metallic dry before adding the first coat of clear? Once you get your 3 coats per day, do you still not need to scuff sand before putting on the next coat(next day)? Thank you. Great vids.
With lacquer you can wait a day or two after the metallic. Technically you don’t need to scuff sand between clear coat sessions, but I generally still do.
Hi Brad! Question. So I just finished painting and clearing my tailgate yesterday. Only problem is, I ran out of clear. (2K super max). Sunday the supplier was closed and today is Labor day. So now tomorrow I'll be getting more clear. Will I need to knock it down abit, or can I just clean it and carry on with my 3rd and 4th coats of clear? Please Advise .
You need to sand first so the new clear can stick properly. I recommend a light sanding with 800 grit.
Thanks for the info!...great video!....about to jump into a charcoal frost finish...quick question if you have a second, I don't have a nitro white primer to use underneath the charcoal but I do have Montana white...in your opinion would that be acceptable to use as a primer with oxford nitro metallic?..I know it has a nitrocellulose combination but to be honest I'm not sure what that actually means in terms of compatibility....any help would be appreciated ...trying to avoid having to order another can from oxford and pay shipping (in the U.S.)
Montana is usually acrylic. If you want to go that route, I would say go ahead with the acrylic white and give it about 2 weeks to dry. Sand with 600 grit and put one light coat of Oxford clear on there to act as a barrier. Then move on to your charcoal frost.
Ideally you would do a small test piece first to make sure these options don’t have any major compatibility issues.
Hi I'm considering painting my first build guitar..🙈 a really wonky but playable guitar. I'm wondering is there a way to ombre/fade Chameleon/indeference paint in each other. Or a way to have a see through Chameleon look so you still see the structure of the wood. I'm really New to this so please bare with me if it is a stupid question.
You should be able to fade them into eachother somehow, but trying to do a transparent version wouldn’t work very well. I don’t think you’d notice much chameleon effect.
I agree!! Do not stop talking, that's where we learn the important stuff.
Brad, I found on your channel the issue with metallics. Mine is that I clear coated over Duplicolor universal metallic on a guitar body with a 2K clearcoat. Used the entire can and it looked kinda good. I wet sanded the clearcoat down to smooth then used a rubbing compound and what I got was a hazy finish that won't polish out. You mentioned this issue in another video. What can I do to get back to a respectable finish? Maybe lightly sand up the clearcoat and respray with just the metallic paint, let it dry, and live with it?
Any suggestion would be great...
Hi Rich. Can you tell me what grits you used when sanding and what compound and polish you used?
@@BradAngove Hi Brad. Thanks for responding. I apologize for not being on your Patreon channel by asking you this way. I initially used 600 then 1500 grit wet sanding (by hand) to smooth out the clear coat as best as I could. I then went to use Mcguire's rubbing compound with DA. After doing a little more research, it's quite possible that I picked up too much of the clear into the (Orange) micro pad with my DA and so much as reintroduced the wet clear back into the finish. After realizing (then thinking) about how to fix that, I went ahead ( with soft pads by hand) and used Turtle Wax liquid polish (for the additional grit). Then tried some Mcguire's polish afterward. I got some of the haze out but not nearly to a point of transparency; at least in any lighting. Can you think of a way of fixing it that is short of stripping everything away?
I can check out your "shorts" if you prefer to address the question there. Thanks, Brad.
Hey Rich, I actually did a quick shirt about this, but it talks more about the likely cause than the fix.
Jumping from 600 to 1500 may be part of the issue. You may still be dealing with some 600 grit abrasion that didn’t come out.
It doesn’t look like there’s cloudiness under the finish does it? I’m trying to rule out blushing.
@@BradAngove No Brad, it seems to be in the clear coat region itself, as the finish (the paint) looks nicely intact under there.
Ok, I’m a little concerned that if I tell you to go through a new sanding and polishing process it’s going to cause you to burn through. So, I suggest you clean it carefully, sand smooth again with 800 grit, then spray a few more coats of clear.
Then when that’s dry, start at 1000 grit and go up to 2000 or 2500. Then use compound, clean carefully after, then use an old cotton rag and meguiars polish to finish it off.
Hey Brad, have you ever used a Muslady basswood body before? Are they decent?
I’ve worked with one muslady kit. It was not very good, but it wasn’t one of their typical basswood models.
Hi Brad! How long did you wait on between applying each coat of the metallic purple?
Thanks so much!
Just a few minutes. Probably about 10.
@@BradAngove thanks so much, Brad. How do you think metallic paints like these would perform underneath a polyurethane finish? Every other video I've seen using metallic paint has finished up with nitrocellulose on top.
If you’re using polyurethane I would go with an acrylic for your metallic.
Hello Brad!
Is it ok to sand the body to 220 or 320 before applying sealer-primer-color?
Also, how do you recommend to fix imperfections in a Metallic color coat? Like runs/sags, dust particles, blushing and orange peel? Since you mention that its not recommended to sand the metallic color
Yes that’s fine before sealer/primer. I’d go 400 or 600 before color.
Blushing can be fixed with blush remover. Runs, sags, and dust particles require sanding and then you add another coat. Orange peel can just be sanded out at the clear coat stage. It doesn’t need to be removed at the metallic stage.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad! Appreciate your help!
Oof I made the mistake of buying grey primer. Would it still be ok under a darker metallic blue? If not I may get black primer instead
It’s doable, but it is easier to get an even looking blue finish over the black.
Bradlington! Hey I just had a Bob Ross "happy accident" bro! I'm repairing/restoring an old 1917 Ovation acoustic which had a catastrophic bridge rip out!! Putting guitars in cases without backing the strings down is 'axing' for it! See what I just did there?? Huh??
So, I secured some light bracing under the soundboard where the bridge pulled away and left a gashing hole! I secured a patch and was filling the area where the patch and body left a gap with a two part epoxy.
I should have bought a new tube because apparently there wasn't an even amount of hardener and the epoxy didn't completely cure.
In fact, it was still running, slowly, but running none the less, after 24 hours!
So, I realized I had to scrape and wipe it off and start again with a new tube!
The damage was so bad I had to sand off the finish so I could repair the gash and holes properly and decided to finish the guitar after I reapplied the bridge in a mat black, because I'm not set up to spray a clear gloss and do it right!
So, as I'm wiping this thick running epoxy off I see it looks amazing, very close to a gloss finish! I wiped the entire soundboard with the thick loose goo and used a very thin even layer and rubbed it in very diligently and left it for an hour and it looks freaking awesome!!
So, I'm going to sand it down until I get a perfect surface and I'm going to finish the top with a mixture of this thinned epoxy and see what I get!
If it turns out as I think it will, I'll let it harden and see of it needs a spray clear gloss finish, which it probably will, or at lest it won't hurt!
Have you done this, or heard about this Bradlington?
Later bro, ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO AS PER USUAL!!
Take care fellow Canuckian! Go Leafs Blow!
Jack ~'()'~
I'LL NEVER SURRENDER!!
TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO DIE! BUT AN AWESOME DAY TO LIVE!!
We need more info. 😂😂😂
@@briansimpson8116 How dare you! ")
Jack ~'()'~
Hi Jack, yes, thin finishing epoxies are fairly common. People use them for countertops a lot. I think you may find your acoustic sounds a bit different with an epoxy hardened top, but there’s no reason it shouldn’t look good with that finishing technique.
Not to my ears it doesn't. I think for acoustic thin epoxy is actually one of the best finishes for a working musician's acoustic.
@@ricksigurdson2016 I like the cut of your jib!! ")
Jack ~'()'~
Canada
So you are saying that a regular layer of nitro paint can be used as a primer. I'm planning on doing a sage green metallic finish (Dartfords). Would priming with Olympic White give a different result than using a basic white primer? I'm looking to get a darker tone of the sage green (basically trying to mimick the finish of a specific guitar and that finish).
The primers and sealer are thicker, so they do a better job for that purpose. Olympic white shouldn’t change anything in terms of end color. If you want it a bit darker, consider throwing a couple coats of black under it.
Im painting my daughter car trunk its a silver metallic and the first attempt turned out terrible. Im going to have to start over. I bought the paint and clear from ERA paints and it came out splotches of metallic and I caused tiger stripes. I think I was going too fast and not overlapping good enough also not paining the entire length of the trunk just half and half. Silver metallic on top of grey primer is hard to do. Im definitely going with the 2k clear and primer next time. Not really sure I need to prime it again? Can I just sand to old base paint off with 600 grit and paint again. I guess your technique works on metal also? Any tips for laying down the silver metallic base would be great. I heard warming the paint helps. Can I buy better nozzles that have a better fan?
You don’t need to remove it; just sand. Check out my very old video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans. There are companies that offer fan caps for cans.
First I want to thank you for your videos, I learned a lot from you!!! I need your advice related with and issue when I try to use metallic colors: Every time that I use metallic spray cans when the paint is drying they begin to appear as stains on the finish and the color is not uniform throughout the piece. What am I doing wrong?
Do you have the piece uniformly sealed and primer before applying the metallic?
@@BradAngove I sealed but not primer, do you recommend primer too??
You need something to create an evenly colored surface or it will look splotchy. Is your sealer colored?
Can this method be applied with a 3 stage pearl white finish? It’s for a 2017 Toyota Camry front bumper. I tried finding the color match cans locally but they said I needed to take it to a professional.
Three stage finishes are quite difficult, but the concept is similar. The difference is there’s a transparent tint over the metallic, which adds difficulty. It’s is essentially the same method though.
That’s assuming you’re painting the whole thing. Touching up or repairing the three stage finishes is very hard.
Is there such a thing as a clear metallic? Would be interesting on a stained or dyed wood finish.
You'd probably need to track down some micro flake mixed into clear base and shoot it over a base colour/stain.
Yes, you can definitely mix metallics into clear coat. I’m not aware of any that come that way in cans though.
I mix silver holographic flake with clear and spray over my base colour. I use 2 or 3 light coats. It's a nice effect.
Hey Brad- I painted a roasted alder body with custom mixed paint (cans) to match a 1967 Corvette. Cool color. I sealed but didn’t prime. Nor did I grain fill because Alder is typically closed grain. Now I am seeing some grain. Do you think I can use the Oxford primer over the paint to build it up and then repaint with the color again? Or should I strip and fill, etc.
You don’t necessarily need to strip it, but I would certainly sand back at least most of the way before adding the primer. This is mostly to level it off somewhat so that your prior paint just sits in the grain and acts as a bit of a filler. It will save you time later.
@@BradAngove Thank you as always my friend. The body is also a little nicked up so it will give me the chance to use some filler in those spots that are a bit deeper. 🙏🏼🎸
Hey Brad- looking for one more piece of advice. I have a swamp ash body. Going to spray Oxford Royal purple. My little guy wants some grain to show through. Obviously I won’t grain fill, but would you still recommend both sealer and primer? Any other suggestions to make the grain show with metallic in a nice way? Based on the video and your comments, it seems like it would be dangerous to try and mess with grain showing through metallic so I thought I’d ask before I get started. Thank you my friend 🙏🏼
@vincent33195 if that’s the look you’re going for then that’s great. The mica will pool in the grain a bit, but that’ll look cool in its own way.
You’ll still want the primer. You may want to skip the sealer though depending on how open the grain is and how much you want to show through.
Hey Brad,
When spraying the first coat of metallic, do you recommend applying a medium coat and maintain a wet edge with minimum overlapping as possible to prevent tiger stripes?
With this material I might actually do a very light coat from a bit further away to start to get some good particle dispersion, but generally yes that’s what I recommend.
@@BradAngove so 2 light coats and then I can move on to medium coats with the technique I wrote?
It's takes 4-5 coats to get a good coverage since it's pretty transparent.
The main thing is to prevent the runs?
Yes, that all sounds fine. 5 coats is a lot. Look at it from a few angles; you may only need 3.
@@BradAngove that's what im saying. Maybe 3 medium coats will get a good cover. 3 light coats didn't cover well
That should be fine. 1 light coat and 2 medium.
If My Metallic Purple looks and feels a little rough texture is that the Metallic fleck and will The clear fill all the roughness and be smooth when all coats of clear are applied? Like a light orange peel. THANKS.
Yes and yes. You’ll just need to use a few extra coats of clear in the end and level sand.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brother and I’ve learned a Lot from Your Videos 👍👍🎶🎶🎸You Rock Brad.
Hey Brad,
I'm using light coats on my test body but I always get an uneven look. Few areas are darker than others especially when inspecting the body in different angles.
The body was filled, sealed and primed it has a perfectly smooth and leveled surface.
Any additional tips on how to make it look better? Cause when I try to move in closer to the body with the spray, it runs very fast unfortunately.
Do you recommend moving even further and use a lot of mist/light coats instead of few medium coats?
How many coats have you done when you are getting that uneven (mottled) look?
@@BradAngove about 3 coats. it's very hard to maintain a wet edge with the metallic cause I was probably too close and it made it uneven. It runs pretty fast.
Any tips on how to make it look even?
I don’t have any tips on that that wouldn’t already be in my videos that you have seen. You might find it easier to spray slower and from further away.
How long should you wait between the coats of metallic? And does the same aply if i use acrylic colour?
It depends on the acrylic. With this note lacquer I only wait a couple minutes. With most acrylics I wait closer to 10 minutes.
@@BradAngove thanks!
How does this finish do under 2k urethane clear? I know normally lacquer is not great under urethane but there are mixed messages on this topic! I'm just curious about your thoughts on this
I’ve used nitro under 2K a few times and have never had a problem.
@@BradAngove yeah man, I know it'll work, I just wondered what your thoughts are considering you lose the lacquer properties and self adhering melt. I've used 2k over lacquer as well and had great results as long as the base is nice and cured. I will say however, I don't like using lacquer clear over a polyester basecoat. I usually try and stay on label for most things but I've got a ton of lacquer I need to use up before going exclusively base/clear!
@@BradAngove I really love using 2k urethane clear and a high quality basecoat paint. I must say man, you are doing the paint and guitar world a favor showing what you do. you get incredible results from rattle cans and that alone is worth learning. I have so much money invested in paint guns and supplies I just feel like I need to standardize how I finish guitars, although some will be stain/oil. All my color from now on will be Base/Clear. I plan on using a few techniques I've learned from you brother. thank you so much.
@@BradAngove I had the same query thanks for the reply
In my view the lacquer acts a lot like any midcoat. It’s not what one would typically use under 2K, but it gets the job done. I don’t worry about the lacquer properties in those circumstances. It becomes a poly paint job that just happens to have lacquer in place of the typical 1k mid coats.
Hey Brad! Do you recommend using a tack cloth between each coat of metallic/clear to make sure that there are no dust particles?
No, I apply my coats too close together for that.
@@BradAngove don't you get a powder like finish when applying metallic from that far? I can't seem to get it right from this distance on my test piece.
Then try moving closer. It depends on the can and how fast you’re moving.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad!
if there are any rough spots in the metallic finish, do you recommend moving on to the clear coat and then sanding it smooth after the surface has a couple of clear coat layers? or should I sand the metallic lightly and apply more metallic?
Normally, with a non metallic paint, you would not use primer, right? Color right over the sealer. Right?
Either option works for typical opaque paints.
Would that oxford paint be ok for metal work like gas tanks or for fiberglass outboard hoods or covers.
Not really. It’s not the metal that’s an issue, but the fact that lacquer isn’t solvent or gas resistant. Gas will melt it.
@@BradAngove 2K clear coat like spray max is supposed to fix that problem offering decent protection from fuels and chemicals. That is not anything I know for sure but some vids on here say so.
That’s correct. The 2K clear cures and is gas proof.
What is the name of this color from Oxford?
Explain sand and polish after clear coat please. I’m new at this so what grain sand paper and what do you mean by polish?
I have a bunch of videos on that process that I’m sure you will find helpful.
@@BradAngove easy question? I get it that you get paid for every view of your videos but shame on you for putting your financial benefits ahead of your viewers.
Your sense of entitlement is, frankly, astounding. I spend hours putting together comprehensive videos to provide information and help people, and you think you’re entitled to demand that I try to reproduce that information in writing for you for your convenience? Then when I ask you to refer to the videos, a superior source of that information, for your own benefit, you try to shame me? Get serious. This isn’t my job; I do it to help people. People who actually appreciate it. Apparently you don’t fit that category.
Can a burst pattern be done with metallics?
Indeed it can
Hey Brad any chance of getting them in Australia 🇦🇺 the greatest Rugby country in the world
I’m not sure if that’s an option, but you guys have some good paint down there. Contact the guys from DNA paints (Dan Power).
@@BradAngove thanks Brad have a good one
Do you have a Promo Code for Oxford Supply?
Not exactly. There’s an option at check out to let them know I sent you, and it really helps me out if you do so.
I use a lot of Dupli-color metallic which comes out fine.
Glad to hear it
I don't remember if you've already done a video like this about flake finishes, but it should be just about the same, ya?
Similar yes.
@@BradAngove Bet. Any particular notes that differ from this vid? I assume I should be even more careful sanding and probably lay down more clear to cover the flakes. I don't have anything else coming to mind though. :\
More clear is the key, and again be gentle on the first couple coats of it.
@@BradAngove Bet. Thank you.
Despite the creative camera work, we see that corner...😁👍
The corner of the booth, or of the piece?
@@BradAngove just screwing with you about the light coverage on the piece and that one corner
Ah I see haha.
72nd.
Thanks for that Brad that was very helpful. I'm not sure who the nay sayers are but I subscribed cause I want to be a better paint sprayer. If you didn't talk Id not know what the feck you're doing. Don't listen to them bud just keep doing what your doing.
Thanks Mark; I didn’t mean to emphasize that complaint so much, I just realize there was a whole lot of talking in this one.
@@BradAngove you're so nice you worry about things you shouldn't. Looking at the comments we all love your vids cause we want to learn. Just keep doing what you're doing 👌
Those children's size shirts are bahhh!
My metallic is going full as it dries
Yeah, you’ll want a clear coat to gloss it back up. You almost may be spraying a bit too light.
Dude..you looking kinda softy..
The best way to get in shape...
Is to not get fat in the first place..
You gotta keep everybody jealous and sayin that you wear your little brothers t-shirts... and maintain your physique with push-ups and Pull-Ups 15 minutes a day... good luck and I'll check up on you in a couple of months
keep talking please i know little to nothing and i need the help😂
That’s what I’m here for haha