5 Things You Should Know BEFORE Spray Painting
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- A lot can go wrong with spray paint jobs, but if you plan ahead and know what you're dealing with you can avoid a lot of mistakes. In this video we talk about 5 (actually 6... bonus!) things that you should know and think about before you start spray painting a project.
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Sorry for the sound issue guys. I had a microphone malfunction for the first part of the video, but it gets sorted out part way through.
You are such a polite youtuber. I've been watching some of your old videos and even now, and you seem like such a genuine person who just wants to help out. Thanks!
Thanks Trevor
Brad your videos are incredible - and have been so helpful for my build project - thank you
Thanks Joseph
Excellent vid, informative and humorous, perfect combo, cheers.
Thanks Stevie
Amazing video man. Keep up the good work!!!
Thank you Tyler
Excellent refresher, thanks!
Thanks James
Great advice as always Brad!
Thanks Yvan
Best man when it comes to spraying I've been trying to learn it had a lot of hassle finally I'm getting there by watching ur videos thk u still a way to go yet tho
Glad I could help
i'm just a rookie at finishing,thank very much for your advice.
Glad I could help
Great channel! Ty for all the many tips
Thanks for watching
Followed your video on spraying on a glitter finish and the result was amazing and the customer loved it! And just so you know, I filled your advice on using test pieces and found that to be a life-saver. Thanks again!
Awesome. Glad to hear it helped!
I had many successes using Brad's methods.
lots of great info - thanks!
Cheers Dan
Good video Brad, especially for new people, because you have covered these things before. I will say on enamel finishes I have had more success putting on the clear coat mechanically than to just spray on as a coat. Also, depending on what you are spraying, a gloss paint is probably good enough without the clear. On guitars I like the clear coat not just for looks, but I feel it gives a little more durability.
Having some clear does add some protection, but less so with enamels. They’re not really designed for it.
I'm wearing that same shirt today. That's all, thanks for the great video. Sprayed a guitar body in the garage with that 2X last winter, nightmare.
Thanks man. Sorry to hear the 2x didn’t go well for you.
I spray indoors all the time and the voices in my head are talking to the other voices in my head. 👂 🔥💥😂 And this whole video is out of focus and pulsating.
Sock stenciling. Lol
Are the voices telling you to have a glass of water and a nap and buy a respirator?
Are you saying that is not normal?
The voices in my head keeps repeating these numbers: “867-5309”
@@3cardmonty602 I GOT IT, I GOT IT.
Good morning bro aww you always make amazing video 💚 and you are very hardworking person so love from India 🇮🇳 keep growing 👍
Thank you as always Barun
That’s good stuff!
Thank you
Take care Buddy, stay safe up there 👍✌😎
Always man. You too.
Thnx Brad. U r one of the very few pple who speak a lot about using lacquers, and at the moment i'm working with 1K Acrylic Lacquers for ease of spraying car panels in sub-perfect conditions at home.
Here are my must-avoids. Im sure u can add more cause explanations.
Relative to 2K, it's soft, and it really does take weeks to 30 days to fully dry and harden. So:
1. If u spray other parts and have a recently sprayed part in the area, the solvents in the air will remelt & resoften the paint or clearcoat on the recently sprayed part ... if u have a thro sheet on something over that part, or try to seal in a plastic wrap, it will melt into the soft paint and badly mar it. So get any recently painted parts out of the spray area completely.
2. When sanding and buffing wait a couple of weeks at least if u can. Further, when listening to youtube advice on grits, add at least 200-500, even more if u r trying to fix defects immediately after spraying. If the (usually 2K advice) is to sand with 1000, start with 2000 and be gentle before going to 1500. Is you are keying in a dry surface try 800-1000 instead of 500-600. Remember, this paint is relativy soft for a long time.
3. Wet sanding and buffing is safest after 2 week-30 days. Treat orange peel not with 1000-1500 but with 2000-5000. Go to 1500 if you are not getting a good enuf or fast enuf result, but go slow and easy on a test patch and check frequently if u dont want burn thru. Do it by hand preferably.
4. Dont put parts in hot direct sun for at least 2 weeks, especially plastics. Ive had small bubbles pop up on plastic a week after coating from continued solvent evap, but no effect on parts that we sprayed 2 weeks or more ago.
Brad happy for you to criticise my observations or add comments.
Sounds like you know what you are doing. I know lacquer has it's uses and many prefer it for cars and guitars, but I have quit using it myself because of the things you've mentioned, and takes forever to dry.
Those comments are all accurate Alex. Because lacquer is softer and melts into itself using higher grit paper makes sense. Nitro lacquer dries to the touch immediately but takes a month or so to harden fully. Even after it hardens it can be re softened with its own solvent unlike 2K because it doesn’t fully cure.
Cool shirt. Fender was started the same year I was!
That’s pretty damn cool Richard
You should do a review on Reranch guitar paint!
I didn't know nitro will melt plastic pickguards! That's a good tip!
It can, depending on the solvent ratio in the mix. Sometimes it’s fine, sometimes they bend haha.
Never use anything chemical on a pickguard. Furniture polish will ruin one quick.
thanks. I think I know how I messed Up now. Impatience is my problem, that and I spayed a clear coat in the evening when it was cooling down in the desert. It does piss me of that I kind of wrecked my painting I did on a plastic piece.
Did it crackle?
Yep saddly it did. I painted a goldfish close up in acrylic over a spray painted blue background on a plastic phone cover. All spray paint I used was the same brand, Rust-oleum that all said they bond to plastic. But I clear coated it in the evening, probably nice and thick too because it looked like glass over it. Unfortunately it didn't stay that way.🙁
I was thinking putting epoxy over the cover to smooth out the cracked look to it. But that's pretty permanent and I might want to sand everything and start again.
Hey man ! Your vids are awesome and detailed but Ive search all over the internet and your vids for the answer about working your way up from bare ash wood guita(bass) body. Does any duplicolor primer are compatible with any wood sealer ? Does a car primer-sealer seals wood ? Thanks a lot. Ash wood must be sealed for sure.
If you’re going for a fully smooth finish you will want to grain fill first, then seal, then do your other paint work. Did you see my great guitar build off paint job? That was ash.
Hey Brad, thank you for your great videos!!! I am a subscriber and watch all of them. I make guitar wall hangers. I make them in the shapes of the guitar bodies but smaller. I was wondering, I have been using the grey primer then spray on the color. Is the primer needed? Thanks, Marty
Hi Marty. Primer may help get an even color and smooth things out a bit. It’s not technically necessary though.
@@BradAngove thanks a lot! Keep the videos coming!
Hey! Thanks for all the helpful info. Any pointers on painting a guitar neck? I assume it's the same procedure as the body, right? Thanks again!
Essentially yes. I’ve done a few videos on it.
@@BradAngove ah good to hear. I haven't seen those I'll have to check them out. Thanks!
It sounds as though you may have a comprehensive list of "to do" video's. My friend was wondering if "how to spray paint pin-up models" has a significantly higher place on said list? This surely would come in very handy for any subscriber that possibly needs to be freshening up the nose of their world war 2 aircraft.
I could do the airbrush version, but I have to admit I have no idea how to get a good skin tone.
Hey Brad I am about to try my first rattle can paint job and was hoping you could tell me if my plan sucks or not.
Poplar body > mohawk ez vinyl seal > duplicolor perfect match > spraymax 2k matte(one tacky coat followed by 2 medium thick coats)
And also thanks for the great videos
That’s an interesting combo. Honestly that should work fine. The poly doesn’t go straight over the sealer, but with duplicolor as a bridge I think you should be good to go.
@@BradAngove I'm only using the vinyl because I already had it. If I wanted to play it safe should I go with shellac or duplicolor primer?
Duplicolor primer would certainly be compatible, but I don’t think you need to worry much about using the combo you’ve outlined.
I spray in my bathtub. It's warm, confined, and the fumes make me see cool stuff.
Paint booth with curtain and an exhaust fan. Brilliant lol
I can’t argue with the logic here. I just hope you have a good grout cleaner haha.
Viola! New grout color! And a satin finish too! Lol
lmao
👍
Can I use a 2K clear coat on top of a standard color coat and get a great result? Or should I use a 2K on all coats?
Yes; I pretty much never use a 2K color coat.
Question: I never knew that it is better to leave the Rustoleum Hammered Finish paints without clear gloss. ( I hate these paints but my customers love the look. I return so many faulty cans and I am not the only one who does) Anyway, is this also true of their plain metallics? I just sprayed a project I am selling for outdoor use in 'aged copper" and if a clear coat is contraindicated and the finish will hold up well without I want to save the effort and not risk problems. Thanks! Oh, and I couldn't find silicone listed on the label of the hammered finishes. Does it go by a different name or not need to be listed?Thank you for your videos. This old grandma appreciates your wisdom and techniques!
Hi Bridget. I typically clear coat their metallics; they’re not very durable. The exception is the reflective finish ones because they don’t react well to many clear coats.
I’m not sure if silicone is listed on the hammered paints but my understanding is that’s what causes the texture.
@@BradAngove Thank You so much for responding. Clear coat I will !!!
thinking about repainting a matte finish guitar with a gloss finish. Do I need to use primer first or can I can get straight over the matte finish wish color, skipping primer?
Just sand the matte lightly with 600 or 800 grit and move straight two color.
@@BradAngove thank you!
Hey, I'm sure you've done some epoxy finishes. I just haven't looked very well. Any way was wondering about making a guitar top from a piece of epoxy, nice and swirly etc, book matched and carved into a top plate for an electric? What ya think? I don't know how well epoxy machines/carved.
You’re planning on re-sawing a slab of epoxy to book match it?
@@BradAngove thats the thought. ur thoughts? waste of time? probably more expensive than a real bookmatched top
Might be a touch pricey but sounds like it would be cool. I’m just surprised that you would book match it instead of just pouring a 1 piece cap.
Epoxy can be machined. I’m a bit concerned it might jam up a saw a bit. You can get a chip blade for a table saw to cut it, a lot like plexi, but I’ve never had much fun with thick plexi on the band saw.
Are there any default sprays which can work on all?
Not really. Shellac is pretty broadly compatible as a sealer.
So 2k clear is safe with a Duplicolor auto paint?
Yessir. I recently did a 2 part series in duplicolor and 2K. It was a fun little project.
what kind of tints can u use for acrylic clear lacquer?
I like to use transtint for that. I would think Keda also works, as do the anilin dyes from Mohawk.
@@BradAngove ty sir for reply
Hey, I'm going to be painting an electric guitar and have a question maybe you could help me with.
How would you finish a matte black guitar that has gloss black lettering or design? Thanks!
Have you seen my video on painting matte and gloss patterns?
@@BradAngove Thanks for letting me know! I just watched it and some of your other videos on painting and finishing guitars. Super helpful! Thanks! :)
Glad I could help
Oh yes linty towel texturing lol so careful to protect my piece and damn if I’m not a hasty bastard that just can’t let things dry completely lol
It’s still tacky? Your moms purse is tacky... let’s do this lolol
Matte and satin are more forgiving hand rubbed. Even over a pretty lousy spray job lol
You just had to bring the mothers into this didn’t you!
Patients is hard when paint is drying, I'm the same way. I try to distract myself by doing something else while it is drying.
I'm 210 lbs is that heavy enough to paint..? And I think only people from the North of England and Canada would film a video in the cold in a T shirt lol and shorts sometimes...... Great as always mate 👍
It’s heavy enough to paint a guitar at least. As long as you’re tall enough...
I’m wearing jeans - shorts are for 10+ degrees (or sports of course) haha.
@@BradAngove i think I am if not stand on a box lol its actually quite mild at the moment and not much snow! But give it time lol
What about using enamel and laquer together, as I'm sure that it has been attempted quite often.
I created a mess by doing that, the lacquer and enamel will not mix properly and it will make the finish rough when it dries. If you are clear coating over enamel, make sure the enamel is cured well before making the attempt, I would not recommend it.
@@jthonn, you can lay laquer over enamel, but not enamel over laquer. I have done it in the past, but patience is required. You have to lay down thin coats if you want a good result.
@@georgemcmillan9172 Thanks George, but I won't make that mistake again, I guess I don't have the love for lacquer like some other folks. In fact, they could quit making it and it wouldn't bother me a bit. Overated and takes forever to dry.
Lacquer and enamel don’t play well together. As with most finishes, if you’re careful and let things dry fully you can make it work, but I generally avoid combining those two.
Jeez man, its that cold in there and youre just wearing a t shirt? Id be violently shivering. But where Im from, thats about as cold as it gets. Our summers float around 43 degrees celcius. (Had to look up a conversion lol)
It's called The Great White North for a reason.
This might be the warmest winter on record here. Usually we hit -40 around this time of year. No need to look up that conversion, that’s where Celsius and Fahrenheit are the same haha.
@@BradAngove ouch. I dont think I could survive that
It’s not ideal haha. When the windchill take it into the -50s it starts to hurt the face a bit. In face I think it was somewhere approaching that when I filmed my old video about how weather affects your paint.
Here’s a question: long description, sry.
I’ve used crystalac brite tone in the past, and everything goes well until I buff and polish.
When I buff, these tiny tiny pits appear all over. They don’t form when first spraying. My spray technique is good. No orange peel whatsoever. Some air bubbles will show up when I first lay it down but they disappear when the coat dries.
I’ve determined it’s not any sort of contamination i.e oil or water.
What else could cause these little pits? They’re much finer than fisheye/solvent pop. Also, it was my belief that solvent pop could not occur with waterbased products?
Could it be the air bubbles deceiving me? They appear to disappear when the coat dries. But maybe they’re just not visible until I polish to a high gloss.. even up to 5k grit they’re invisible.
Only show up when i take a polish and buff it to it’s final high gloss shine.
what do you think? Should I try cutting the air pressure down? Any clue?
I’ve got 2 filters on my rig, using a gun that has only ever had crystalac products put through it, no silicone anywhere in sight. Cleaning between coats with crystalac surface conditioner, etc.
Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Could be air bubbles; perhaps air escaping from the underlying wood? It’s more likely that it’s pinholes from evaporation though. I’m surprised that this wouldn’t show up before final polish, but my guess is it’s going on a bit too thick or two fast and some of the stuff underneath is trying to evaporate through an essentially dry top layer. When you warm it up by sanding or polishing it probably increases that effect and causes the evaporation to increase and break through.
@@BradAngove that’s the other thing, the guitar is sealed completely before I clear. So, I’m not sure if air bubbles coming from the wood is the cause. I use Mohawk vinyl sealer.
And I have been putting my coats on like.. 1 or 2 a day tops. With 4 hours minimum in between, usually 12 hours or so. I do spray a somewhat wet coat tho, because of fear of witness lines. I did spray a neck recently and had my pressure turned down, with a bit of reducer, and there were no air bubbles in the coat when I laid it down. And i was able to polish it up and no visible pin holes or witness lines. I sprayed it about as wet as I had been doing the bodies.
I’ve also heard ppl saying to do 9-12 coats ish of brite tone. Sometimes 15. So, i put around 10-12 coats on the bodies. The neck I only did 6 coats. Later, a Luthier friend told me waterbased clears don’t require more than 6 coats. So, maybe that’s one of the issues too? Too many coats on the body.
Evaporation increase to sanding and a thick coat sounds plausible.
I appreciate you taking the time to respond in detail man! Thanks.
You may want to touch base with the guy who makes it. He tends to be pretty responsive and obviously he knows the product quite well. David Sheppard I think is the main guy.
I did a wrinkle finish on some motorcycle parts at mid 30's F.
Turned out like 💩
Sorry to hear that
It would be really nice, not to mention extremely helpful, if manufacturers would take off much of the irrelevant printed stuff on their spray paints, so as to bump of the size of the type to where most humans can read it. Or, at least, have a prominent / easy to read website printed for key usage tips or cautions.
I know right? I’m the guy with the magnifying glass at Home Depot that everyone is so curious about. Lol
I admit my vision isn’t great. Might be instructions. Might be the King James Version. Lol
It would be nice if they’d made it clear on the damn can what kind of paint it actually is.
You think? LOL
Man I agree, cut the BS and just tell me how much time between coats!
I plan to stain my 1st guitar. Do you think polyurethane is better for stain, or lacquer?
It depends on what kind of stain you’re using, but the more broadly compatible option over stains would be poly.
IMO poly, seems more durable and won't take months to dry.
@@BradAngove It's a Minwax semi transparent stain.
Ya, poly is your best bet then.
Could 2021 finally be the year I paint my kit guitar? God, I hope so since I promised my son I would make him a Captain America shield too.
Ooooh that sounds like a fun project. Are you following the Adam Savage videos on it and making one out of metal?
Good luck, follow Brad's advice and it should turn out great!
@@BradAngove I got a brushed aluminum seafood serving tray that I'll have to flatten the edges on. I checked out some videos on how to make one out of a metal sled for paint ideas. I'll definitely check Adam's.
Sounds like a fun project.
Hey Brad! One consideration may not be apparent, and isn't even relevant for 95% of us and that is - Birds! I have four parrots and I've heard all kinds of real horror stories about people spraying products in the house thinking being in the basement was plenty of space away from their birds, and even the most light usage ended up killing birds.
You might think, as I did when my wife first started bugging about wanting a parrot, that "it's just a stinking dumb bird" but four parrots later, this "dog only" manly man is a firm lover of "dumbass birds"!!
Parrots anyway, but I strongly suspect all of them have enormous characters! I fell right in love with each one of these menaces!
They are every bit as individual as any of my Dobermans, Staffordshire Terriers - Jerk Russells and Old English Bulldogges are!! I was given a thorough education in training and breeding dogs from my earliest childhood, fist by Mum then my WWII veteran no BS father!!
I'm 58 and have been breeding (not personally...whew) and training dogs for over 50 years and I put up with my wife's cats, and now I am a complete Parrot freak!!
SO! NEVER spray in the same house as birds!! They are pretty hardy animals which is deceiving because they are so tiny and light, but any chemical spray and they are toast!!
Back to the actual expert!
Thanks brother! I've learned so, so very much watching your channel!! Thank you so much!
Jack ~'()'~
Canada Manly!
Birds! Haha wow that never even crossed my mind.
@@BradAngove They're sissies! One sniff of some quality paint and their feet up on the bottom of the cage! Quitters! LOL!
Nobody likes a quitter! Or at least that’s what I tell my smoker friends to make fun of them...
@@BradAngove Beeyuclk! Filthy smokers! LOL! I have a confession...I was a quitter! Don't tell!
I quite that disgusting filthy habit over 30 years ago! I felt so bad for being a quitter that I took up smoking crack! NOT!
Later brother!
Jack ~'()'~
Glad to here you kicked it man.
Don't spray indoors with a flame, or electric element type heater running.💥
Good advice
Boom
oops lol
Don't spray indoors. Unless you're inside a real spray booth. If not -- spray outside. Yeah, this presents other problems, but you'll still be breathing.
Yeah, ventilation and protections are important. I’m thinking that’s all a topic for another video though.
A pedant writes: 30 Celsius = 86 Fahrenheit...
That is helpful. I always appreciate a touch of pedanticism.
Vague, non-specific, almost no proper names with materials used “some of this or something similar, sometimes, maybe, look into my other video on this subject.” This video is not designed to address any particular issue, it’s basically just saying Do your homework.
Ya, I’m not going to make a 90 minute video on this when I’ve already covered these topics and just want to make sure people have these things in mind when they’re painting.